Can a 10 ton hobbyist press bend 1mm cheap steel sheets (with 6 cm depth)? Or should I buy a 15 ton press? The shape is not like a square profile, it is more like an oval profile; so corners should not be a problem in my opinion. Sorry if my question lacks any detail, I am a clueless student, any help would be appreciated.
Good explanation, and demonstration. I was searching for info for pressing steel mesh (Opening 0.097") into microphone grill shells. Thanks for good tutorial.
I've never used a cnc machining centre so not sure if this is relevant, but when milling you want to go in the opposite direction of the cutting tool to prevent "climbing" where the milling cutter runs along the work piece, often resulting in broken cutters. If you've ever experienced this, I hope this helps. Great video by the way.
Thanks for the comment. I was always told that you didn't have to worry about conventional milling when machining with a CNC mill so I just went with that. Your comment got me to look deeper into the topic and got a lot of useful information from Tom's Techniques. From my understanding from his video and other videos, climb milling leaves a better surface finish on finish passes since it isn't rubbing when it enters the part and extends tool life for the same reason. It looks like climb milling only becomes a problem when taking larger cuts with a smaller machine, when there is less rigidity in the workholding or when there is backlash with the ball screws. I had no problem taking larger cuts in A2 while climb milling recently, So I am assuming that it is ok with my mill. Maybe it has something to do with the precision ball screws or the fact that it is controlled by stepper motors. I will probably go with servos on my next mill since they keep track of where the table/head are. My Tormach with steppers can lose steps so I have to be careful not to be too aggressive. Thanks!
I was going to make one with 4 pins but I have a base with 2 pins. I am going to try to make that work. I got some springs but didn't figure on the weight of the upper die pushing the springs down too much. LOL I ordered some new springs that should work. Thanks!
@@craigsmachineshop2040 sounds like your headed in the right direction, it really wouldn't matter much for what your doing sense the part is symmetrical, but it's a good idea and a industry standard to have a offset pin so the a and b side of the die cant be turned in any other direction, just a thought for down the road though. If you have any questions hit me up I mainly work in the injection molding industry but do some die work, and many of the same principles apply.
Yeah, I see your point. I have just been drilling a small shallow hole in the left front edge of the fixture plates and dies to know how to put them on. LOL I guess I should be more professional about it for when I get employees. Injection molding, wow cool! I appreciate it!
NIce job. Before watching this video, I would have said that the final result using aluminum wouldn't be usable. You proved me wrong. Good luck on your final tool.
Hello sir thanks for very excellent information video sir what kind of metal that you made die what is name of metal i want to make some punching die so
The result looks great. Was there a bit of warping on the outside of the steel? Thanks for showing the test and I look forward to seeing the "real" one!
Great video! I want to do exactly this, but with a much deeper impression (about 30mm). How much force was required for this? What's your hydraulic press rated to?
I am curious about spring back. Did you have a print with dimensions that you needed to hold to? Was the bottom flat surface actually flat on the part once it was removed from the die? If it is not what adjustments would you make to your die?
Never did any die work. AMAZING! I would have thought you would have needed the exact shape to get the nice rounded corners. Wonder how much it pulled the material in from the edges? Is the outer dimension still 3 X 3? Be interested to see the whole process. i.e. I was just thinking of the process I might try??? Sure you already have a good process figured out. 1. Cut the stock on you shear slightly oversize to accommodate for any shrinkage during the forming process and allow for a little machining stock of the outer profile to create a finished product. 2. Drill the center hole in the stock 3. Make the bottom section of the die with a threaded center pin of proper length (either heli coiled or Loctited) in place to guide the plate during forming. Of course you would need a clearance hole on the top section of the die to clear the threaded center pin during forming operations. 4. Remove the top half of the die and install the formed plate into the bottom half of the die and machine a plate out of aluminum to fit over the threaded center pin and hold the formed plate in place with a nut. 5. Then you could machine a perfect profile and chamfer if necessary the outside of the part with minimum machining effort.
Hey John! Yeah, worked far better then I expected! I saw another product with tell tail signs that they did something similar so I tried it. The shrink was only about 1/32" I think. I finished the die holding system for interchangeable dies. I should post by Mon or Tue. Its far easier than you might think. I held off for a long time thinking it was going to be so hard. LOL I have the covers laser cut to shape with the center hole now. I just need to form it. Yeah, I thought I was going to need a center pin to keep the part in place but after the test, I don't think I need it. I will probable have a lip about 1/16" out from the part for quick placement.
I really enjoyed your video. Glad you are on the right track to success. Some times things are easier than they look. Using the KISS method is the way to go.
That worked nicely. I've made a couple of homemade round dies for the ends of a model engine fuel tank and the ends of a small steam boiler. Also experimenting with making a die for the intake manifold and bypass cover for my little single cylinder two stroke engine. I believe that the old Brown Jr model airplane engine used pressed steel parts for these parts.
Ciao Marco. Thanks! I still have to machine the 3/16" and 1/4" tamper proof covers. This is to make my regular covers more professional. The original manufactures usually form them.
Awesome video 👍🏼 could you please list some parameters for this or point me in the direction of a source that does. I'm trying to make dies which press aluminium into little toy boats! ⛵
Very cool- I'm going to need to do this for a uni project. On the topic, have you tried forming a structure into the die? Like the X they used to put on tin gas cans for strength?
Hi, how much tonnage do you think it would take to press 2mm aluminium, I think that's 14 gauge in your language.. to form a "joggle" or countersunk relief for creating a lap joint along the edge of a sheet for riveting purposes? The length of the die, press tool, could be around 6" long by 3/4" wide... I am wondering if an "Arbor Press" would be sufficient? Also at 5:40 in the clip , your using a very nice looking guillotine , what make and style is the?? thanks Paul, Mullumbimby, Australia.
Hard to say on the tonnage. I would think 12 tons would be more than enough. Not sure about an arbor press. 12 ton presses are like $140 here in the states. The shear is a 12" diacro.
"Crash form" with no real material control or restriction. In the real world this is done using nitrogen and a pressure pad in the center of the lower form, and in a lot of cases "draw beads" to further control material flow. Nice video none the less.
thanks for helping, you've just take me out of lot of pains !! i think i'm gonna do it with dremel , i don't have a cnc milling machine i know it's not realy precise but it's all i have !! but please if u remember the mesurements and the dimensions about the test die could u put it on the comment! i will understand if it's not possible !! thanks
If I created a steel die for making an aluminum part that is 1/4" thick, would it be possible to sqeeze a plate of 1/2" thick material with a double pocketed die, and have the aluminum sort of flow into the die kind of like playdough in order to completely fill the die? I know nothing about this and am trying to figure out if I can stamp the part I've been working on or if I should mold it with liquid aluminum.
Sounds like that would need some extreme pressure. Depending on the qty you are going to make, either machining for lower qty or casting (molten) for higher qty.
What about a die that could be used to put "v" or "u" shaped groves in small sheet metal pieces. Instead of rolling them in they could just be pressed. I'd be interested in that to purchase
Hey Sean! Thanks! Yeah, using it nearly every day. Need to make some more videos one of these days. Doing Ok considering the times. Hope all is well with you!
maybe someday you can explain the spotting procedure (you know the oil-based blue color procedure during the try-outs) of deep drawing and stamping tools. Cool channel tho !! :D
@@craigsmachineshop2040 I should have said oil intensifier. Its a device that takes shop air to power a hydraulic cylinder, which gives you higher operating pressures/forces and more rigid control. I assumed you were using one based on the fact you said you were using air
@@craigsmachineshop2040 As it is used in my shop. It refers to tools and dies that are used to form a piece of metal to a shape that would be 2 or 3 setups on normal tool and dies.
If you are making a hole then your punch is too big and need to be reduced or the die needs to have a lead in of slightly rounded edges to stop the material cutting a hole.
Machine a relief of the pattern on one or both of the dies. Depends on the product material on how exactly you would do it. Aluminum and copper being the easier to do.
How would a guy go about making a large set of dies for say an automotive quarter panel if he wanted to do so? (Let's say an original donor piece that he was wanting to duplicate in good shape)
@@craigsmachineshop2040 thank you Craig for your time and response. I know it would take quite a press to stamp out the panels and they ARE long quarters but they're 18 gauge steel, not near as heavy as what you have there. I know that with modern technology a CNC could be programmed to make such a contour from a program easily if a guy had deep pockets...but how was it done in the 60's & 70's? Would it literally require a block of steel for the top tool and bottom die the dimension thickness of the quarter itself? Let's take a 68' Charger quarter for example with the long coke bottle shape. The only thing I've seen was the equipment we had at an aircraft business i used to work for. We made fuselages and the floors for commercial planes. They made tool and dies for those but we were making composites similar to fiberglass.
It’s always way easier than me think. I have made press dies with Plywood and had amazing success. Good job man.
Can a 10 ton hobbyist press bend 1mm cheap steel sheets (with 6 cm depth)? Or should I buy a 15 ton press? The shape is not like a square profile, it is more like an oval profile; so corners should not be a problem in my opinion. Sorry if my question lacks any detail, I am a clueless student, any help would be appreciated.
Good explanation, and demonstration. I was searching for info for pressing steel mesh (Opening 0.097") into microphone grill shells. Thanks for good tutorial.
Thanks! Glad it helped
I've never used a cnc machining centre so not sure if this is relevant, but when milling you want to go in the opposite direction of the cutting tool to prevent "climbing" where the milling cutter runs along the work piece, often resulting in broken cutters.
If you've ever experienced this, I hope this helps.
Great video by the way.
Thanks for the comment. I was always told that you didn't have to worry about conventional milling when machining with a CNC mill so I just went with that. Your comment got me to look deeper into the topic and got a lot of useful information from Tom's Techniques. From my understanding from his video and other videos, climb milling leaves a better surface finish on finish passes since it isn't rubbing when it enters the part and extends tool life for the same reason. It looks like climb milling only becomes a problem when taking larger cuts with a smaller machine, when there is less rigidity in the workholding or when there is backlash with the ball screws. I had no problem taking larger cuts in A2 while climb milling recently, So I am assuming that it is ok with my mill. Maybe it has something to do with the precision ball screws or the fact that it is controlled by stepper motors. I will probably go with servos on my next mill since they keep track of where the table/head are. My Tormach with steppers can lose steps so I have to be careful not to be too aggressive. Thanks!
Make sure to add some leader pins for alignment on the real one, also some die springs would be nice so you dont have to pry it open every time.
I was going to make one with 4 pins but I have a base with 2 pins. I am going to try to make that work. I got some springs but didn't figure on the weight of the upper die pushing the springs down too much. LOL I ordered some new springs that should work. Thanks!
@@craigsmachineshop2040 sounds like your headed in the right direction, it really wouldn't matter much for what your doing sense the part is symmetrical, but it's a good idea and a industry standard to have a offset pin so the a and b side of the die cant be turned in any other direction, just a thought for down the road though. If you have any questions hit me up I mainly work in the injection molding industry but do some die work, and many of the same principles apply.
Yeah, I see your point. I have just been drilling a small shallow hole in the left front edge of the fixture plates and dies to know how to put them on. LOL I guess I should be more professional about it for when I get employees. Injection molding, wow cool! I appreciate it!
So I'm curious if you have a punch going through .050 material making a .125 hole. What should the hole in the die plate be .1255 or ??
@@anthonyjones657 Die clearance is 10% of material thickness ,the punch gives you the hole size
Nice job. That would be a good way to make seat belt anchor bolt reinforcement plates for older cars that never had seat belts.
Awesome sir. But I wonder if there is a need for a punch holder also....🤔
Really happy to get step by step process. Very useful. May I know the material name. Which material is best to make Tool & Die..
Thanks! I just used 6061 aluminum. Steel or tool steel would probably be better.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing your experiences
NIce job. Before watching this video, I would have said that the final result using aluminum wouldn't be usable. You proved me wrong. Good luck on your final tool.
Thanks! I wasn't sure either. Due to the success I may make the final dies aluminum with a steel holder.
Little tip. Always use the fixed side of the vice to set your zero
Thanks, yeah I tend to not worry about it with a non-critical part. I suppose I should for a good habit.
Hello sir thanks for very excellent information video sir what kind of metal that you made die what is name of metal i want to make some punching die so
Thanks, 6061 aluminum
The result looks great. Was there a bit of warping on the outside of the steel? Thanks for showing the test and I look forward to seeing the "real" one!
Thanks! No, it all looked pretty clean. Just finished the die holding system for the interchangeable dies!
We are trying to manufacture the Piper Airplane Ashtrays in our haas Cnc and we are having a hard time with the programming
Pls share a video about different types of plastic injection die with full description
Great video! I want to do exactly this, but with a much deeper impression (about 30mm). How much force was required for this? What's your hydraulic press rated to?
I can help you ıf you want.
Me ti help me
I am curious about spring back. Did you have a print with dimensions that you needed to hold to? Was the bottom flat surface actually flat on the part once it was removed from the die? If it is not what adjustments would you make to your die?
Never did any die work. AMAZING! I would have thought you would have needed the exact shape to get the nice rounded corners. Wonder how much it pulled the material in from the edges? Is the outer dimension still 3 X 3? Be interested to see the whole process.
i.e.
I was just thinking of the process I might try??? Sure you already have a good process figured out.
1. Cut the stock on you shear slightly oversize to accommodate for any shrinkage during the forming process and allow for a little machining stock of the outer profile to create a finished product.
2. Drill the center hole in the stock
3. Make the bottom section of the die with a threaded center pin of proper length (either heli coiled or Loctited) in place to guide the plate during forming. Of course you would need a clearance hole on the top section of the die to clear the threaded center pin during forming operations.
4. Remove the top half of the die and install the formed plate into the bottom half of the die and machine a plate out of aluminum to fit over the threaded center pin and hold the formed plate in place with a nut.
5. Then you could machine a perfect profile and chamfer if necessary the outside of the part with minimum machining effort.
Hey John! Yeah, worked far better then I expected! I saw another product with tell tail signs that they did something similar so I tried it. The shrink was only about 1/32" I think. I finished the die holding system for interchangeable dies. I should post by Mon or Tue.
Its far easier than you might think. I held off for a long time thinking it was going to be so hard. LOL
I have the covers laser cut to shape with the center hole now. I just need to form it. Yeah, I thought I was going to need a center pin to keep the part in place but after the test, I don't think I need it. I will probable have a lip about 1/16" out from the part for quick placement.
I really enjoyed your video. Glad you are on the right track to success. Some times things are easier than they look. Using the KISS method is the way to go.
Thanks John! I Think I may have to use the center pin method when I make a die for curving covers. The covers will probably move around if I don't.
How dies for car panel manufacturing are made? With same principle as here?
Yeah, pretty much the same.
Could you have used 0.5mm titanium sheet
Can we form 4mm SS sheetmetal ? what will be the depth of forming ? is there any calculation required to decide the depth based on sheet thickness
That worked nicely. I've made a couple of homemade round dies for the ends of a model engine fuel tank and the ends of a small
steam boiler. Also experimenting with making a die for the intake manifold and bypass cover for my little single cylinder two stroke engine. I believe that the old Brown Jr model airplane engine used pressed steel parts for these parts.
Thanks! Yeah, all kinds of uses for them!
Do you have any photos? Are the ends considered endcaps? Would like to see if you have time. thanks
Nicely done Craig! That'll be way faster than machining those plates. Ciao, Marco.
Ciao Marco. Thanks! I still have to machine the 3/16" and 1/4" tamper proof covers. This is to make my regular covers more professional. The original manufactures usually form them.
Awesome video 👍🏼 could you please list some parameters for this or point me in the direction of a source that does. I'm trying to make dies which press aluminium into little toy boats! ⛵
Actually, its rather simple. People are 3d printing the dies now. I suppose some hard wood or even carved plastic could work.
@@craigsmachineshop2040 I've been trying to 3D print them, but getting it right in terms of what is and isn't allowed is the hard part!
@@najeyrifai293 I understand. I have no formal training and just try to see what works like you. lol. Just trial and error.
@@craigsmachineshop2040 I'll keep you posted 😁 thanks
@@najeyrifai293 👍🙂
Very cool- I'm going to need to do this for a uni project. On the topic, have you tried forming a structure into the die? Like the X they used to put on tin gas cans for strength?
Never have but it looks pretty simple to do. Just looked at a google image of a gas can. Looks like it could be 2d machined.
At 1.48 what is the machine doing this?
Hey Craig! Thanks for your videos! Have you ever pressed anything with a Z access greater than 3 inches with multiple curves?
Hey, sure thing! That would be deep draw. I tried it once but the metal tore. It requires a more complex die set and forming oil I think.
Man I would love a small Chevy bowtie one.
Hi, how much tonnage do you think it would take to press 2mm aluminium, I think that's 14 gauge in your language.. to form a "joggle" or countersunk relief for creating a lap joint along the edge of a sheet for riveting purposes? The length of the die, press tool, could be around 6" long by 3/4" wide... I am wondering if an "Arbor Press" would be sufficient?
Also at 5:40 in the clip , your using a very nice looking guillotine , what make and style is the?? thanks Paul, Mullumbimby, Australia.
Hard to say on the tonnage. I would think 12 tons would be more than enough. Not sure about an arbor press. 12 ton presses are like $140 here in the states. The shear is a 12" diacro.
"Crash form" with no real material control or restriction. In the real world this is done using nitrogen and a pressure pad in the center of the lower form, and in a lot of cases "draw beads" to further control material flow.
Nice video none the less.
Thanks! It gets the job done.
thanks for helping, you've just take me out of lot of pains !! i think i'm gonna do it with dremel , i don't have a cnc milling machine i know it's not realy precise but it's all i have !! but please if u remember the mesurements and the dimensions about the test die could u put it on the comment! i will understand if it's not possible !! thanks
Beautiful video
Great, thanks, what tonnage press?
20 ton
@@craigsmachineshop2040 Thank you!
By any chance do you have a video on a cookie cutter metal stamp type.Sheetmetal cut stamping?Thankyou.
Here is one I did recently. th-cam.com/video/74DggoOx34c/w-d-xo.html
what name of shear show in 5:45 ? what name and brand ?
#12 Di-Acro - Got it off Ebay
If I created a steel die for making an aluminum part that is 1/4" thick,
would it be possible to sqeeze a plate of 1/2" thick material with a double pocketed
die, and have the aluminum sort of flow into the die kind of like playdough in order
to completely fill the die?
I know nothing about this and am trying to figure out if I can stamp the part I've been
working on or if I should mold it with liquid aluminum.
Sounds like that would need some extreme pressure. Depending on the qty you are going to make, either machining for lower qty or casting (molten) for higher qty.
What about a die that could be used to put "v" or "u" shaped groves in small sheet metal pieces. Instead of rolling them in they could just be pressed. I'd be interested in that to purchase
Sounds like something that is possible. Sorry, we only make tooling for in-house use.
You should make more videos regarding this specific subject. And maybe a little bit more complex project!
I hope to in the future. Maybe after the fall.
Hi Craig - love your vids. hope your doing ok. still using the tormach?
Hey Sean! Thanks! Yeah, using it nearly every day. Need to make some more videos one of these days. Doing Ok considering the times. Hope all is well with you!
Use locating pins to align the dies We mfg punch and dies for mfg fasteners out of brass crs and spring steels
Looks easy to do thanks..
Glad it worked out! I look forward to see where you go with the concept.
Thanks! Working on the die holder now! Did you just get a Haas?
Amazing...make more such videoes
beautiful part. very clean. nice!
Thanks!
great, what is the name/model of the sheet metal cutter and the press machine as well thanks in advance
Its a 12" diacro shear. The press is just a 20 ton Harbor Freight shop press.
@@craigsmachineshop2040 thanks
Can you make custom size?
Sorry, we only make for in-house use.
Does anyone know the make of the sheet metal shear? I have been looking for something like that for a LONG time.
It's a Di-Acro Model 12 Hand Shear. Check Ebay
Good video craig
part ok But If I Want To Part Only Inside With Radius So Can You Made That ???
Not sure if I understand.
Any idea how much actual pressure you needed to press that part?
Less than 12 tons since its a 12-ton press. Not sure of the exact tonnage.
Do you know any place where they conduct practical training in tool and die making
Now we can appreciate hail damage! It doesn't take much. (make the upper and lower out of ice and give that a shot!)
Outstanding work, clearly explained. Thanks a lot!
Thanks!
love this video..thanks a lot
Good job, although the milling part could be a little shorter.
Wonderful experience
dude nice job!
Thanks!
Respect To you from India✌🙏
Hey, same from the US.
This is really cool stuff.
You are my hero Steve
Do you think it could press 14 guage mild steel
I pressed 11 gauge once but I think that was pushing it.
Craig, you're a legend. Great video :)
Wow, thanks Jason! Your videos are great too!
Are using cnc milling machine
Yes, a Tormach 770
great job. did anyone else think u look and sound a lot like Ray Romano..
Thanks! Yes, I have heard that a few times.
Great job Craig, keep it up.
so good .
Job Well Done !
Thanks!
maybe someday you can explain the spotting procedure (you know the oil-based blue color procedure during the try-outs) of deep drawing and stamping tools. Cool channel tho !! :D
Thanks! I'm still relatively new to this, so I'm not sure what that is.
thanks!
What's your hydraulic press weight?
It’s 20 ton
@@craigsmachineshop2040 what steel did you used and what's the thickness of that steel, and can 410 0.5mm thick steel can be work well
@@lalmuanpuiijahau7531 16 gauge cold rolled steel. What is 410, some kind of alloy? That's pretty thin, just .020 inches. 16 gauge is .063 inches
I need a set of press die
How much would you charge for a custom die set, very similar to the one you made, except steel and
2 1/2" x 2 1/2" ?
Do you have any drawings or a photo? You can email me at craig.edinger@gmail.com
Any way you could use this exact die and press me this into 11 gauge steel? i need this to repair body mounts on an old Dodge truck?
I've tried 11 gauge on my 20-ton press and it didn't bend it all the way. Maybe it needs more tonnage?
@@craigedinger9629 possibly more tonnage. I do not need it perfect but i need that shape. I am willing to pay if you can help...
@@vincentlatronica1278 Sorry, we only make tooling for in-house use.
super super cool
Do you have any idea how to make hubmotor dies
A hub motor? From like an e-bike?
Worked great
J
good work
Thanks.
Just out of interest what was the press tonnage used for this item?
12 ton
Very cool. Thnx for sharing
Craig what type of Mill are you using ?
Tormach 770 series 3
@@craigsmachineshop2040 Thanks Craig
Not too bad. But lightyears away from toolmaking. But you did the right thing for a test.
Please share spoons 🥄 Die making process
Now that would be interesting, I will have to think about it.
what size of intensifier did you use?
PS I liked and subscribed :)
Thanks! Not sure what an intensifier is.
@@craigsmachineshop2040 I should have said oil intensifier. Its a device that takes shop air to power a hydraulic cylinder, which gives you higher operating pressures/forces and more rigid control. I assumed you were using one based on the fact you said you were using air
@@inund8 Oh yeah, I just refer to it as air over hydraulic. It's just a bottle jack that comes that way from Harbor Freight.
🟥 thanks can u try o shape metal with aluminum dyes from 3d printer !? im so intrested to know of that would work?🟥
Not sure, never tried it. If it has the same strength as 6061 T6 aluminum then I would guess so.
Maybe use The 3d print to cast a mold in concrete? Never tried It.
There's a youtube channel called rainbow aviation that made 3D printed die for a CNC brake press, so it might work
@@inund8 I just found out that die manufactures offer urethane dies. So I guess it's a thing in the industry.
so you don't have to heat up the metal at all before pressing it?
Nope
What press machine are you using?
Its just a Harbor freight shop press. 12 ton I think. With an air over hydraulic jack.
How much tons pressure you need for these?
Not much. I use a 12 ton press. I don't know the exact tonnage.
good one!
I have made a few coining tools at work for the press brakes. I would be willing to help any way I can.
Thanks! Coining like making coins?
@@craigsmachineshop2040 As it is used in my shop. It refers to tools and dies that are used to form a piece of metal to a shape that would be 2 or 3 setups on normal tool and dies.
Sir can you teach me the basics of this i am doing this in size of 8 mm diameter bt it is making hole
If you are making a hole then your punch is too big and need to be reduced or the die needs to have a lead in of slightly rounded edges to stop the material cutting a hole.
you could read a book "Die Makers Handbook", or reinvent the wheel.
I kind if like the challenge or reinventing the wheel. Lol. I will have to check out the book in all seriousness. Thanks!
Gosh .. this is perfect :)
What size press did you use?
12 Ton Harbor Freight
how would you press a pattern?
Machine a relief of the pattern on one or both of the dies. Depends on the product material on how exactly you would do it. Aluminum and copper being the easier to do.
Is thi aluminium?
Yes
@@craigsmachineshop2040
Dear sir
Why don't you upload new video of sheet metal cutting die
How would a guy go about making a large set of dies for say an automotive quarter panel if he wanted to do so? (Let's say an original donor piece that he was wanting to duplicate in good shape)
I guess it depends on the size of the quarter panel but they usually require very large presses as you see in car factories.
@@craigsmachineshop2040 thank you Craig for your time and response. I know it would take quite a press to stamp out the panels and they ARE long quarters but they're 18 gauge steel, not near as heavy as what you have there. I know that with modern technology a CNC could be programmed to make such a contour from a program easily if a guy had deep pockets...but how was it done in the 60's & 70's? Would it literally require a block of steel for the top tool and bottom die the dimension thickness of the quarter itself? Let's take a 68' Charger quarter for example with the long coke bottle shape.
The only thing I've seen was the equipment we had at an aircraft business i used to work for. We made fuselages and the floors for commercial planes. They made tool and dies for those but we were making composites similar to fiberglass.
@@MidnightOilsRestoration Sorry, not really sure. I mostly have experience with small stuff.
❤
Isaac Puerto Rico
making a die out of aluminum is best for forming cheese. use tool steel.
Well, they have formed thousands of 16 gauge steel parts.
HI BRO CAN I HELP U🥰