Milemarker Manual Locking Hub Install - 80 - 96 F150 & Bronco
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ต.ค. 2014
- Milemarker Hubs for this Truck on Amazon: amzn.to/2xZ0qPu
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Hey Everyone, thanks for watching. Be sure to check out what's happening with this truck nowadays. I'm completely rebuilding it from the ground up. You can follow this link for the playlist. Thanks!
th-cam.com/play/PLHRSPnh4bEkx3DBhC0MNVElRx1hxOu952.html
Thanks for this video!!!! I was going to just put in manual hubs at the start of this summer. It's now November and that project turned into me dropping everything from the transfer case up. That said I completely forgot how to reassemble the hubs. EVERY other youtube video is with the 5-bolt configuration. Yours is the only video I could find with the 3-bolt. Thanks a ton!!!
No problem! I had the same problem which is what inspired me to make it. Thanks for watching and the kind words!
Good job on the video. I have a 95 F150 with the same set up. It is important that anyone doing this conversion MUST get the conversion kit (locknuts and washer) you mentioned. Many other sources don't make that clear, but it is a must. That kit replaces the washers and locknut that holds the wheel on. Thanks again for taking the time to share your work.
+jhenry65 Thanks for watching and the kind words!
I was wondering about the washers lol. Thanks for the comment.
Hint, if the washer hole doesn’t line up the little pin, after loosening outer nut by 90 degrees. You can either move the nut a hair, OR first try just just flipping the washer over, since the tab on the inside of it is offset one way or the other as compared to the nearest 2 holes, flipping it sometimes “magically” gets the other hole to line up. It did for me.
That is excellent advice! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks a bunch , I purchased a set of the Mile Marker for my 96 F-250 . Cheers
Thank you so much ❤❤❤
Hey man, thanks for the vid. I recently purchased a 92 f150 and your vid was awesome. I have my rotors changed out and everything worked the way you recorded. My truck already had the MM hubs on it when I got it.
Thanks again!!
Thanks for watching Jacob! Glad it helped!
Thanks,,you Explained,,others just throw parts together
Hey Castledome, thanks for the comment. I tried my best with this video. It was actually one of my earlier attempts and I would change a lot about it if I could do it again. Anyhow, I'll be discussing this in more detail tonight during my weekly live stream at 7pm EST, Episode 28. Hopefully you can check it out.
Thank you
This helps a lot👍🏻👍🏻
Lots of great info... And right on the money with parts and tools into also
Thanks!
Hello Joe so after removing the thrust washers and spacers etc, the only new pieces going back in are the locking rings torqued to spec and then the actual manual hub assembly correct? Is your 4x4 manually activated or auto/vaccumn to engage the 4x4 via push button? Not sure if that is possibly to do with the push button.
So after you took your wheel bearing out to repack it, did you reinstall the wheel bearing nut back in then installed the conversion kit. Or did you leave out the wheel bearing nut and just added the conversion kit after installing the wheel bearing.
hey Thanks for posting this, very helpful.
+Kirk Botefur Thanks for Watching!
Very thorough, great video thanks
Hope it helped, thanks for watching!
Thanks that help a a lot, would not had as easy of time with out your Vid.
Hey Art! Thanks for watching!
What size socket is needed to remove the factory locl nuts?
Whats the part number on that castle nut tool so I make sure I get the right one
took me two hours to get the auto hub out, but the next one be so bad! thanks for the info
They can be a bugger!
i never knew about the different nuts, but i did notice there was nothing there to keep the locking clips from falling out so i machined some delrin washers that where the right size thickness and put them in there.
Brilliant. Wish I had the capabilities to do things like that. Good work!
What is that clip @6:37 ? Previous owner must of broke or lost it. I'm missing one on one side and trying to find a place to buy it so I don't have to buy the whole kit. The service kit on Amazon does not show this clip to be part of it.
is tgere spose to be a spring behind the hub
Just did this on my 95 F150, Converison lock nut kit from mile marker and premium mile marker hubs $109.52 Amazon.
What was the size of that socket?
Was frustrated with this simple project. Needed to hear "install it in the open position". duhh. felt like a dummy but it works great now. Thanks a lot.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
I had a shop service my Warn lockers now they dont turn all the way to lock. The arrow stops one screw before the lock position. Its on the driver side. Any Ideas why folks? 1995 ford bronco originally had auto lockers. I installed warn 10 years ago and never had that problem. Looking for ideas and stuff to look for while I pull apart to fix.
Thanks people.
Here's a tip... drill a small hole... 1/8"? into your spindle about an inch in... best to gauge by measuring to the center of the outer snap ring to the edge of the spindle. Now just take a scribe and poke through the hole to push the snap ring out of the journal.Your welcome... I know... you love me....
Yeah, I've seen that before too! It seems like a good idea if you're gonna be going in there often.
what size socket is that?
you should make a video on replacing a fuel pump on your 92 f150. I watched your other videos for the hub and fuel filter. great help.
If I ever need to again. I will definitely make a video showing how to do so. The hardest art is dropping the tank by yourself. Replacing the pump isn't all that hard compared to getting the tank down. Thanks for watching!
Very cool video. Thank. I have the dana 60 on a f350. I want to swap out my hubs. The axle nuts and washer are my hub already so I don't need the conversion kit. My shouldn't take that long at all. So how good are they when ingauged in four wheel drive?
Stupid spell check.
They work great, and haven't had any issues.
Thank you. I'm going to get them.
How do you fix a disengage hub
What are the socket sizes??
so i have a 1987 ford bronco with the 5 bolt auto hubs and I already have the two lock nuts and the washer in the middle(with the holes in it) so does this mean that i don't need the conversion kit or do i still need the conversion kit to do the swap.
It is my understanding that you will be fine without it. Hope that helps!
Yes it sure does, Thanks for the quick response.
the washer that is inbetween the inner and outer lock nut, that washer has twisted out of the notch that the little tab on the waher is supposed to slit into. Well it is jammed tight as can be with that tab now sitting out of the notch and the iupper half of the nut is pushed back futher then the lowe half of trhat nut. it wont budge. any suggestions how we can get it off, cut it or something? thanks
There's got to be a way to safely remove it, but in doing so you may damage one or more pieces requiring new hardware. Without seeing it in person, it's hard for me to help though. I wish you luck, but I'm not really sure what to suggest.
Hi Joe, That tool that you said looked like a castleated nut... If you look at that as a pipe, can you tell me what is the inside diameter, and the outside diameter? Also, how wide are those 4 'teeth'? Thank you very much. :)
If you are planning on making one, I suppose it can be done with a certain degree of accuracy, but you are way better off purchasing the proper tool in my opinion.
what size thin wall socket did u use? looks like a 2.5 thanks!
Ryan Bonti its available at most auto part stores. There are many sizes to choose from, but each would have the applications listed on the package. The one I purchased is branded as Great Neck from Pep Boys and has a part number of 33625072. It's almost 2.5 inches across.
Did your new hubs come with a Allen wrench? mine did
Not that I remember, no.
@Rebecca Smith I'm not sure why, but your comment was sent to my spam folder and now I am unable to respond directly to you. Hopefully my comment will make it to you somehow.
You are correct in saying that the lock rings/washers are the only new pieces going in. These are part of the conversion kit that I mentioned a few times. My 4X4 is manually activated, but i do so why this wouldn't not work for a truck in which there is a push button on the dash. I know that its easy to switch from manual to electronic using donor parts. Also, the hub itself only locks into the front axles, the transfer case, no matter how it's activated is independent of that. Hope this helps! Good Luck! Thanks for Watching!
+Joe Robinson (GettinJunkDone) @Rebecca Smith I just converted my 88 Bronco to WARN Manual Lock outs.. same additional conversion kit. I have a B&W 1345 T-case It has nothing to do with the lockouts.. You'll just have to get out and lock or unlock them as needed..
Great video Joe but one question:
On the auto lock out there was a half moon clip and a additional spacer by the spindle nuts.. are those reused at all...?
Not having the parts you are referring to in my hands makes it a little difficult to answer that, but I can assure you that the conversion kit came with all the necessary parts (that's only if you need the kit!) and the directions were pretty clear. If you don't need the conversion kit, I would assume that some of the stock hardware would be reused, but I can't be sure since I have never replaced the stock hubs without requiring the conversion kit. Milemarker, or whatever brand you go with, would be able to answer your question better. Thanks for watching!
Foot pounds or inch pounds? That's a lot of torque for those little screws. Good video!
In the description I correct myself. It is inch lbs.
You guys are crazy! auto is the way to go
Dodge Ram 01 , depends what you are doing with your 4x4, auto hubs break about 50 percent easier than a good set of manual hubs. This is the reason a lot of people switch them out.
@@noonespecific9463 I have never had a set of automatic hubs break! Every single 4×4 has them now, it's just old thinking that the new of anything isn't any good! I've had them on chevys, ford explorers, Yukons, and my 07 Nissan,
Dodge Ram 01 , ever hook a chain to a log so big you have to back up to put some slack in the chain and then take off to cause that sudden jerk that will get it sliding so you can pull it out of the thick of things to load it or cut it up more? The kind of thing that gives you the feeling maybe the whole frame of the truck is going to stay behind with the heavy log. This will turn automatic hubs into broken pieces that no longer engage. It comes down to what your doing with the truck or 4 wheel drive vehicle. If your going to sling mud and such automatic hubs are fine, you can even snatch your buddies truck around on the end of a chain every now and then and be fine. When you start going in and out of places that take 4 wheel drive and a set of chains on each axle to move what your pulling things get to tough for them, I’ve broke every set of automatic hubs I ever used, the number of times is about 4 if I remember correctly. After I had to be the one getting dragged by the chain that 4th time I never trusted auto hubs again. I have no idea why or what causes them to be weaker , but they are. If your really working your equipment and never had them fail you got lucky my friend. When things get serious , don’t trust them , they will leave you stuck and maybe stranded depending on where you are when they fail.
@@noonespecific9463 well I don't over work my stuff beyond its rating! I have been a welder/fabricater for many many years and have seen a lot of people doing dumb shit! One guy tried to use a 10 ton press well beyond its capabilities and when it broke and sent broke parts al over the shop he blamed the press as being cheap! Story here is if you are working a truck that hard well beyond its capacity then maybe you need a heavier duty truck! Its not the wreanchs fault that someone put to much stress on it and it sheared beyond its capacity ( get a heavier duty wrench) just as its not the hubs fault that you over worked them!
final bolts are INCH POUNDS!!!!
Stock setup is a manual locking hub and comes with 6 allen bolts
9/64ths,, is what mine is,, its a pain,,
Certainly is.
Your title specifically states that this is a MANUAL locking hub, but you are working on an AUTO locking hub...
What's up with that ?
Vic Krue I switched out the stock auto for an aftermarket manual set. Mentioned that in the first few seconds of the video.
Thanks for watching.
Yes, I see now... sorry.
Man, you respond fast dude !