Thank you for the detailed overview. I was looking for info on tabbing. Normally I build right side up, so all the coves go inside and it is super strong when I get to the point of flipping it over. You did not do what he suggested which was to bog and glass the seams. He says it is easy, which is true. But it would be endless. Glad to see you got away with the process of just bogging the seams. I was looking for permission. :)
Yes, sorry my time has been spent updating the shop to a metal working shop, so i have been seriously slacking on the final build video. There is a picture of it completed on my website, but again, the video should come hopefully soon. apologies in advance!
Dear Mr. Kazier I am very impressed with your woodworking, mechanical and electronic skills and have enjoyed seeing how you created your own CNC machine. However I am even more interested in that fine Candlefish 13 that you built for yourself. I have been trying to find one to learn more about it myself and to experience it's stability and sea abilities. Perhaps you can advise me with regard to your experience and understanding about the boat? I would like to use it to transport 2 adults + gear to a 32' sailboat, up and down a 3 mile river that goes 4-5 knots due to the tide (against a good wind) creating a good chop. A 310 Rib gets pretty wet, so I would like this boat to be dryer and a better sea boat. Do you think it will be dryer? I would also like to be able to take 4 adults to the sloop to go daysailing, and going slower with the heavier weight and being packed a bit, is expected. Is that possible? I would like to understand how stable Candlefish 13 is, because I would like to know how easy it is to board or transfer to another bigger boat's ladder. My wife has just had 2 knees replaced and she was able to board from our 310 Rib last year with difficulty. Now she has new knees and is doing PT so she is much more capable, but I would like to have an easier way for her to board our sailboat. I would have a stabilizing post or railing for her to hold on to, that could be deployed when boarding or disembarking. I would lean outboard to starboard to keep the boat stable, as she moves to port on the bridge deck to get to the ladder. I am pretty agile so I don't think stability will be an issue for me, but I would like to know if the Candlefish 13 is more unstable than I think it is, is it sort of like a narrow canoe or kayak? As you move weight to the side, does the boat increase in stability at all? I have been considering the cross section and am a little concerned about the reserve buoyancy outboard, due to the way the second panel is positioned. Is the amount of stability something you get used to and just don't notice after awhile because you have accommodated and learned the boat? Also another question I have is this boat too big to consider towing it behind a 32' sailboat for 15-20 miles sailing between ports? Will it tow well? How would towing compared to a 310 RIB (120 lbs) which we do all the time? Thanks, Rick Gleason PS: Thank you for your excellent youtubes's I have looked at them all. I find it very helpful and encouraging. PS. I tried sending to your email on your website www.kazierkreations.com/ from two different emails and each time I was notified that it does not exist. www.kazierkreations.com/
First my apologies, i have not had time to finish setting up the website, and i have had a few issues with spam so i disabled emails at the time untill i can get this squared away. Hopefully this response is not too far dated to get back to you. as for the boat its self, it would be quite a challenge to board, it sits fairly high in the air until it is loaded with people so stability is a little on the weaker side. I would suggest looking at some other plans deviln has (i have emailed him many times in the past, and is a pleasure to email and talk) He has other plans on his site that definitely show a slightly larger (or wider version of this boat). In my experience so far with this boat, besides being lightweight, and buoyancy of the boat being vastly greater than any of its size, it does need a extra set of spring loaded trim tabs. It is a fast boat for its size, but when turning with a tiller motor, it does feel a little "Free" going left and right. We have taken it out with 2 full grown men, space is a little limited as well, so sitting "in line" helped the unstable madden voyage. It did though help when i installed the trim tabs, it really made it a little slower as well as stable while under power. hopefully that helps, and again i apologize about not being able to contact me.
I only used wires every few feet (my design is the updated version of this boat, but I don't think that is the point. I had wires every few feet on the rear half, and about a 3rd back from the bow, I had 3 wires with 6 inches between them. At the bow, I had wires every 6 inches. I am talking about the bottom panel with the keel. If I drill holes on 6 inch centers I start by putting wires in ever foot, and just see how it looks. Less holes and less wires speeds thing up. The wood is retty stiff. I don't have any bulges or swells. I used the 17 electric fence wire, and found it was really weak, so I had to use two strands. Still goes a lot faster. I prefer to use copper wire, but it has become too expensive.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[1/2] เปิดแคมป์หลอนต้อนรับ 2 ตัวพ่อแห่งวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2uPuHYHgwiI/mqdefault.jpg)
Lovely job, would be great to see it finished.
Thank you for the detailed overview. I was looking for info on tabbing. Normally I build right side up, so all the coves go inside and it is super strong when I get to the point of flipping it over. You did not do what he suggested which was to bog and glass the seams. He says it is easy, which is true. But it would be endless. Glad to see you got away with the process of just bogging the seams. I was looking for permission. :)
Nice build, good job explaining. Any more updates?
Yes, sorry my time has been spent updating the shop to a metal working shop, so i have been seriously slacking on the final build video. There is a picture of it completed on my website, but again, the video should come hopefully soon. apologies in advance!
Dear Mr. Kazier
I am very impressed with your woodworking, mechanical and electronic skills and have enjoyed seeing how you created your own CNC machine. However I am even more interested in that fine Candlefish 13 that you built for yourself. I have been trying to find one to learn more about it myself and to experience it's stability and sea abilities. Perhaps you can advise me with regard to your experience and understanding about the boat?
I would like to use it to transport 2 adults + gear to a 32' sailboat, up and down a 3 mile river that goes 4-5 knots due to the tide (against a good wind) creating a good chop. A 310 Rib gets pretty wet, so I would like this boat to be dryer and a better sea boat. Do you think it will be dryer? I would also like to be able to take 4 adults to the sloop to go daysailing, and going slower with the heavier weight and being packed a bit, is expected. Is that possible?
I would like to understand how stable Candlefish 13 is, because I would like to know how easy it is to board or transfer to another bigger boat's ladder. My wife has just had 2 knees replaced and she was able to board from our 310 Rib last year with difficulty. Now she has new knees and is doing PT so she is much more capable, but I would like to have an easier way for her to board our sailboat. I would have a stabilizing post or railing for her to hold on to, that could be deployed when boarding or disembarking. I would lean outboard to starboard to keep the boat stable, as she moves to port on the bridge deck to get to the ladder.
I am pretty agile so I don't think stability will be an issue for me, but I would like to know if the Candlefish 13 is more unstable than I think it is, is it sort of like a narrow canoe or kayak? As you move weight to the side, does the boat increase in stability at all? I have been considering the cross section and am a little concerned about the reserve buoyancy outboard, due to the way the second panel is positioned. Is the amount of stability something you get used to and just don't notice after awhile because you have accommodated and learned the boat?
Also another question I have is this boat too big to consider towing it behind a 32' sailboat for 15-20 miles sailing between ports? Will it tow well? How would towing compared to a 310 RIB (120 lbs) which we do all the time?
Thanks,
Rick Gleason
PS: Thank you for your excellent youtubes's I have looked at them all. I find it very helpful and encouraging.
PS. I tried sending to your email on your website www.kazierkreations.com/ from two different emails and each time I was notified that it does not exist.
www.kazierkreations.com/
First my apologies, i have not had time to finish setting up the website, and i have had a few issues with spam so i disabled emails at the time untill i can get this squared away. Hopefully this response is not too far dated to get back to you.
as for the boat its self, it would be quite a challenge to board, it sits fairly high in the air until it is loaded with people so stability is a little on the weaker side. I would suggest looking at some other plans deviln has (i have emailed him many times in the past, and is a pleasure to email and talk)
He has other plans on his site that definitely show a slightly larger (or wider version of this boat).
In my experience so far with this boat, besides being lightweight, and buoyancy of the boat being vastly greater than any of its size, it does need a extra set of spring loaded trim tabs. It is a fast boat for its size, but when turning with a tiller motor, it does feel a little "Free" going left and right.
We have taken it out with 2 full grown men, space is a little limited as well, so sitting "in line" helped the unstable madden voyage. It did though help when i installed the trim tabs, it really made it a little slower as well as stable while under power.
hopefully that helps, and again i apologize about not being able to contact me.
I only used wires every few feet (my design is the updated version of this boat, but I don't think that is the point. I had wires every few feet on the rear half, and about a 3rd back from the bow, I had 3 wires with 6 inches between them. At the bow, I had wires every 6 inches. I am talking about the bottom panel with the keel. If I drill holes on 6 inch centers I start by putting wires in ever foot, and just see how it looks. Less holes and less wires speeds thing up. The wood is retty stiff. I don't have any bulges or swells. I used the 17 electric fence wire, and found it was really weak, so I had to use two strands. Still goes a lot faster. I prefer to use copper wire, but it has become too expensive.