Mercedes GLK 350 4Matic X204 - removing and installing front axles (both left and right)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- This video shows how I removed and reinstalled both front axles in my 2011 Mercedes GLK 350 4Matic (X204). I couldn't find any information online about how to do that, so made a video.
If this video helps you, I'd really appreciate it if you could like the video and subscribe to my channel. That'll help you keep up on similar videos designed to help the DIY wrench-twister.
Thank you for the video. I had the exact problem getting the CV axle off the intermediate axle. I hit it with the PB Blaster and let it sit for about 24 hours. I was able to tap it out without any trouble. Also, I only removed the top bolt on the strut to get the axle out and back in. That saved a ton of time. I appreciate your instruction.
@@danlachmann thanks for the update, and the tip on leaving one bolt in the strut tower. I'll have to give that a shot next time!
Great video got it done
Glad to hear it!
I use a bit of Nickle never seize compound when reassembling spline shafts. It just helps if they have to be removed later
That should work fine. I've never had "plain old grease" fail me in that kind of application, and normally save the anti-seize for high-torque applications (like on the threads of a nut), but after going through some very tough axle removals (check out my BMW axle video) I can only wish the previous owner had used anti-seize (or grease). ;-)
Great job bro always mark the bolt with sharpie or nail polish to ensure that the bolt turned 90 degrees sometimes the ratchet angle 📐 method can over torque the nut
Great advice... Thanks!
Great video, thanks for posting!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I think the grease Hydro locked the driver side shaft, that's why you got such hard time to put it back on. I'll soak the splines tonight!
I don't think it was a hydrolock, though I may have been fighting some air compression. There wasn't nearly enough grease in the splines to fill up the cavity formed by the splined shaft in the intermediate shaft cavity. There would have still been plenty of air space there, and since the splines don't seem to be TOO tight, I'd expect any air pressure created by forcing the two together to blow out through the greased splines. But clearly SOMETHING caused the difficulty. Leveling the CV axle shaft and tapping it in (using a socket, while holding "preload" against the intermediate shaft) did the trick. Let me (us) know if yours is different (i.e. goes in like butter without leveling the axle). ;-) Good luck with the repair either way, of course!
I used wd40 and hit the back of axle with my Rachet with a mallet to put it in a used the axle as a slide hammer and I heard the c clip engage also I re used the stock c clip
Sounds like you used what you had, and got it done! Congrats!
Great job! Very helpful!
Thanks! Hope it helps those who are facing the same job.
@@Mark_H_DIY Yes. I replaced mine tonight and had the same problem with the rusted spline. I followed your advice. This is the only video on the cv axles for the GLK 350 that I could find.
That's why I made the video (I couldn't find one either). I'm guessing that the splines between the CV axle and intermediate shaft probably get some spray from the road, and will rust a lot quicker than the CV axle / hub interface (both of mine came out with finger pressure, which was a big relief - my BMW axles were a nightmare).
@@Mark_H_DIY I took the passenger side apart and found the boot was broken and the joint really bad. However, the clip on the axle shaft was missing. Could that have been missing from the factory?
Once the boot is compromised, the joint is never far behind. I'm betting that someone did some service at some point, and didn't check to make sure the clip was intact. Or got tired of trying to force it in and just left the clip out (which makes the axle slide in VERY easy, of course). Just another reason I do all my own work - what I may lack in direct experience I more than make up for in motivation to do the job correctly. ;-)
Hello Mark, could you please tell me what brand you selected, I see people debating on diff. brands that I'm really confused.. Thanks!
Sorry, I can't really help much. The video was actually removing and installing the same axles, as part of a motor mount swap. Of course, the work is the same, it's just that the parts stay the same. I've used a number of different axles in different cars over the years, and the one thing I would warn about is avoiding the Chinese no name axles, which are known to fail in pretty short order. I've had good luck with Cardone rebuilt axles in the past, though I've read reports about people getting bad ones too. You can't go wrong with OEM axles, though you can go broke. :-)
I noticed the stuts moving when you pushed against it. Is that normal? Wont it mess it up the mounts?
The strut shaft is isolated by bushings, so there's quite a lot of freedom of movement in the strut, via the spring, without stressing out the mount itself. It's actually quite easy to move the strut and knuckle around like I did. It's clear when you're doing it that you're not stressing out anything dramatically.
Did you by any chance have any play in the left side axle bearing? I didn't know there was such a thing until recently. If it's bad you can grab the axle and shake it up and down.
It was nice and snug when I put it back together. I didn't detect any movement in the intermediate shaft at any point. Call me lucky! ;-)
@@Mark_H_DIY What was wrong with your axles? I made a video about what's happening with mine. th-cam.com/video/a0JifofKnIA/w-d-xo.html
There wasn't a thing wrong with the axles (happily - the replacements are SPENDY). ;-) I pulled them only to put in new motor mounts. I just cleaned up the splines, lubed them, and reinstalled them. I replied to the MB forum post you put up - I'd suggest just pulling that axle, the C-clip and see what's moving. If it's the inside of the bearing, you just need a new bearing. If it's the outside race rattling around loose, it's going to be an "interesting fix".
@@Mark_H_DIY Thanks! Cool that you found my post! I posted up a couple followup questions there for you or anybody who would like to chime in. :)
Hello, it’s on automatic gearbox? The gearbox refilling is not necessary?
Thanks for that
Yes, it's an automatic (7 speed 722.9 transmission). No fluid came out when swapping the axles
Re, can you share the part that you have installed, size,.. ?Can we chat by WhatsApp?
@@Mark_H_DIYsee above
I didn't use any parts.... ?
?
Mark, do you have the Torque specks by any chance
It's kind of convoluted...
1) Tighten to 160Nm
2) Loosen approximately 90°
3) Tighten to 120Nm
4) Tighten additional 90°
Will this work for 2013 GLK 350 base model?
AFAIK, the front axles are the same for all 4Matic X204 GLKs.
Is it a different axle nut for GLK 250? I thought it was a 32mm 12 point