@@mlennyphoto No, I replaced a factory 120 mm Specialized Brain fork that was brain dead. My new Reba though has outrageously bad stiction. I'm trying to figure out what to do about it.
this was nice, clear and compact. Got the courage from this to order the parts I need to shorten my RS Lyrik Solo Air some. I installed ebike battery to the underside of the downtube of my Intense 6.6. and don't want tire scrubbing to it in full compression
Dude... you got some strong fingers to push the airshaft like that... and Lovely Video! I did not even bother to read the manual (other than find the recommended bumper when reducing from 160 to 140mm). THANK YOU SIR!
Wow. Never found such a compelling reason to keep the U-Turn coil in my Pike before watching this. I like to be able to adjust all mountain to cross country frequently and this, while easy, would be obnoxious to change week in and week out.
Exactly my thoughts - there are seriously diminishing returns on bike DIY when it comes to risk vs return, my local suspension shop take all the risk and guarantee the work, for a once a year outlay, no decision really.
Jm3 MTB definitely DON'T DO THAT! I mounted and dismounted the fork 6 times before i realised that you mustn't compress it. If you go to the sram tutorial for the lower leg service you'll see that they don't compress it.
DONT Compress the fork, I wish I saw this comment earlier. Its true, it will create a vacuum that will prevent the fork from using its full travel. I installed a 150mm travel shaft onto my pike and was frustrated that it would not open all the way. Thankfully I found this comment.
I have a pair of RockShox SID RCT3 on my 2016/2017 Giant Anthem Advanced 29er 1 and I am researching to see if I can increase the travel from 100 to 120 mm. Any ideas?
If I adjust mine from 140 to 160 of travel how donyoubthen account for correct sag? I cant find this answer anywhere. Isnt the location of 30% sag going to change on the stansion? TIA
Just ignore any markings and shoot for 15-20% of 160mm, which is 24-32mm. That’s where the o-ring should sit. Depends on how you set your sag up, but this is a decent ballpark to start with.
Yet another brilliant video tutorial:-) One improvement suggestion. Overall on all your videos, i would recommend to look into how to improve the audio. It seem the room you use for recording is reflecting the audio and is not sufficiently damped making the audio a bit to "tinny"
I've got a question that I hope someone can answer. I have a 2017 pike set to 130mm, and the stanchions show sag scales for both 130 and 140. Can my model go up to 150, or will it only fit the sizes indicated on the stanchions?
A very detailed and nearly foolproof video - I'm impressed. But I've 4 Questions: 1. Why would anyone go for less mm? I'm looking for as much mm as I can get. Isn't that the whole idea? 2. You only mounted 1 new (in this case a shorter) let's say „screw“ on the right side of the fork. On the other side you left the longer one. Just for this video or in any case? 3. I don't understand why these red plastic parts are for? 4. Are there any forks available that are symmetric? Damper and oil and so on like in motorcycle forks - the same details on each side?
+joelbackman100 1) It is somewhat personal preference but more suspension is less efficient on the uphills and can affect geometry. More suspension is not always necessary and can be a crutch and honestly make ride a pain when climbing hills. 2.) He mounted a new air spring, you have your spring leg (coil or air) and you have your damper side (most of the time air preload unless its dual coil, or nothing but rebound and compression circuits) at least I believe so I could be off I dont think so though from the forks I've studied. 3.)Those are bottomless tokens, they take up extra air volume in the spring leg to help with end stroke ramp up. 4.) I am not sure on this, but I doubt it too much weight and no reason to do so.
+David Schallock Dear David - thank you so much for this detailed answer. Well about the climbing issue - mine's a Haibike E-Mountain bike, so I couldn't care less. But the (maybe) disadvantage of the higher weight of an e-bike makes more suspension even more smoother to ride. And about the mm-hype: looking forward the 300 mm bike, so I could start from a first floor window :)
Hi i have a question for you i bought trek mountain bike with RockShox judy silver front fork 120 mm travel. I had some problem with that fork so i sent bike to shop to fix it they fix the lockout part but now fork is hard and jerky and just travel may be 80 mm. Shop is not considering this as problem so can u help me what is going wrong with it .
A little confused ... The comments above mention "... may wish to alter the geometry ..." but if the tokens only fill up some of the air space, doesn't the axle to crown dimension (which drives the geometry) remain unchanged?
No, the A-C changes with the fork travel, which will change the geometry of the bike: Shorter travel means lower bottom bracket and steeper head angle, as well as a tad longer reach. When fitting a shorter air shaft, the fork is simply not able to extend to its full length. The air spring chamber will therefore also be larger at the point of bottoming out, since you're not using the full travel. The tokens are there to optimize the volume of the air spring chamber when the fork is _fully compressed_. Shortening travel will make that volume too large if you don't add tokens, so that the spring rate won't "ramp up" as much as you probably want. However, this is a question of how you want the fork to act. Some people want it really linear while others want better support at the end of the stroke, to avoid harsh bottoming out. More tokens => more "ramp up" of the spring rate, towards the end of the stroke.
I have 2015 xc30s on my 29er, currently with 100mm travel. would it be possible to increase the travel up to say 120 or 140mm by removing some of those plastic spacers? Thanks.
Hi guys, I had my Reba extended to 120 by changing the inner spring and removing spacers. Result it only gives me 110 of reach (On the fork's bar printed scale it does not reach to 120 but bit more than original 100... Tia x ur answers
Hey guys! I want to convert my RockShox Yaris into dirt jumper forks, they’re currently sitting at 140mm of travel and I want to get them down to 100mm. I don’t know the first thing about what this entails or if it’s even possible. Any suggestions?
Can I make my oem rockshox 30 silver tk solo air 100mm to 120mm? From reading the service Manuel from sram, it appears there is a spacer in my curryeny 100mm m, which if removed can make it 120mm?
Only if it was originally capable of being at 120mm... in other words, if it shipped with the 20mm reduction block in it, then you can remove it and get back to 120mm. Otherwise, if it is a 100mm fork, you cannot magically extend it to 120mm. In the future, it's better to buy a 120mm fork and reduce it to 110mm or 100mm instead of buying a 100mm fork and trying to save a few grams of weight.
according to manual for Reba 2015 it is same procedure like on the video above, so need to change the air spring assembly. But another model year could be different I am not pro...
hello good day sir..i would like to ask if i can also adjust the travel of my rockshox reba.29er fork ..its a 100mm travel.i like to make it 120.im planning to buy an air shaft from a rockshox sid.thanks
Seeking a solution to a hitch: The damper side foot bolt spins - seems that the threads are tighter than the inherent tension on the shaft. I tried a few suggestions found on other websites: Turn all adjustment knobs to highest levels (lockout, LSC, rebound), compressing fork with a strap. For kicks I tried extending the fork as long as possible too. Nothing worked thus far, bolt just spins in both directions. I don't have access to an impact wrench (another suggestion), but the bolt spins so freely that I'm doubtful that an impact wrench will be much help. So, aside from cutting off the bolt flange, does anyone have any other non-permament solutions to this? I.e., any way to stabilize the shaft from the top adjustment area?
quick question, when a fork is listed at 100mm of travel, but the o-ring is only 80mm up the stanchions, did the fork come from the shop set for 80mm? or is the 100mm including negative travel (correct term?), like if you pull the wheel down it reveals a little more of the stanchions?
As far as I know, the only "negative travel" should come from running an amount of sag. Which means that the fork is somewhat compressed from your own weight on the bike. However, some Fox forks seem to not extend to its full travel unless you pull the legs. Never seen this on RS forks though. The o-ring is there to measure sag and to let you know how much of the travel that you have used during riding. If it's "80 mm up the stanchions" after a ride, you have only _used_ 80 mm of the 100 mm available travel. Which means that you could lower the pressure a tiny bit if you want a plusher feel.
there are many Rebas, the current Reba solo air is eligible, all you need is the correct air shaft for that particular model (32mm) and the exact travel you want
Hi MBR I have an old mtb(with 26 inch wheels) with cantilever brakes and want to upgrade my old fork but new forks(RS SID dual air) don't have the canti brake mount points so I decided I would get a new old lowers with canti mount and a used upper stanchion. However, even used RS SIDs(post 2000) have 100mm+ travel and the old lowers(before 2000) are all for 80mm travel so would a 100mm travel stanchion fit into a 80mm lowers? From your video is it the air spring assembly that dictates travel length? The RS SID air spring assembly are stated for 80/100mm. So how do you set it for 80mm travel? Thanks.
i think this depends on your riding style. if you set your sag how you like it and you bottom out the fork very often than you should add some tokens if not you are alright. more travel means less tokens and less travel more tokens when you ride the same sag and with the same riding style
I've just fitted a 160 shaft into my 150 Pike. With the fork pumped up, should i see the seals sitting at the 0% mark? They're currently at the 10% for 160 but 0% for 150. It was a 160mm 27.5 (140 29) shaft before this is questioned. I depressed the rods on both sides as i compressed the legs fully to fit the bolts. Could i have too much negative spring? Cheers Just got some advice from a forum which was that the transfer port was blocked with grease due to over-greasing the piston and creating a back pressure behind the piston, preventing free movement in the extend direction. I stripped the fork again and found this to be true.
5:35 - what exactly is the operation here, as it's foxing me? I get the tab has to be out of the way to allow the circlip to pinch. Do I push the tab sideways, so one of the circlip holes lies over it? (I tried, it didn't move naturally but am nervous of damaging the circlip by bending it). Or should it go into the shaft? (Mine doesn't seem to). Ta.
Matt Gillam OK the answer is the head does push into the shaft a little, then it can be rotated under the circlip. Also I don't have the dexterity to depress the air shaft with one hand while doing this, so I protected the shaft with a rag instead, which did work.
Matt Gillam Yeah, I couldn't hold everything together while working the retaining clip and pliers either, so I used an 8" section of clear nylon braided 1/2" ID hose to protect the shaft. Coming off of a big spool, it had a good bend to it that kept it tight on the shaft. Added benefit is that the hose is stiff enough to use to leverage the seal head far enough into the stanchion that putting the retaining clip back in was fairly easy. This was all easier than trying to hold the shaft inside with my weak thumb.
This is a good video for most of this procedure, but the assembly was absolutely wrong. DO NOT COMPRESS THE FORK TO RE-ASSEMBLE. It creates a negative air pressure.
nope...i believe it.s pike 454 and that.s 140mm max...what they forgit to say is that you can only convert up until the maximum travel the fork was designed to take
I always cringe when I see their tutorials, which hit my radar when I saw them do a Hope Pro II service and they were hammering in new bearings using the inner races. Really smart; you replace shot bearings with new ones, but you damage the new bearings upon installation. Really smart people at MBR. ANd this one delivered, too. Love grabbing the stanchion with the pliers in hand, while he's commenting about scratching the surfaces. These idiots deliver.
it's not fucking cheap and not fucking easy old solo air forks just need a piece of plastic which costs around $3. now they've fucked up the whole system
Thank you Al and MBR. Extremely well filmed, lighted, sound quality, detailed instruction. I changed a Reba RL from 100mm to 120mm with your help.
Hello Tony, was your Reba off a Kona Hei Hei - if so, hows the handling with the new 120mm length? (something I want to do)
@@mlennyphoto No, I replaced a factory 120 mm Specialized Brain fork that was brain dead. My new Reba though has outrageously bad stiction. I'm trying to figure out what to do about it.
this was nice, clear and compact. Got the courage from this to order the parts I need to shorten my RS Lyrik Solo Air some. I installed ebike battery to the underside of the downtube of my Intense 6.6. and don't want tire scrubbing to it in full compression
Dude... you got some strong fingers to push the airshaft like that... and Lovely Video! I did not even bother to read the manual (other than find the recommended bumper when reducing from 160 to 140mm). THANK YOU SIR!
Wow. Never found such a compelling reason to keep the U-Turn coil in my Pike before watching this. I like to be able to adjust all mountain to cross country frequently and this, while easy, would be obnoxious to change week in and week out.
Yeah, I'm taking mine to the bike shop. XD
Exactly my thoughts - there are seriously diminishing returns on bike DIY when it comes to risk vs return, my local suspension shop take all the risk and guarantee the work, for a once a year outlay, no decision really.
@@neilk22 unless part of your enjoyment of "mtb" is working with and understanding the mechanical technology itself!
@@neilk22 It's too easy
What hapoen if i just sadd or remove the tokens without doing anything to the lower legs?
dont compress your forks when re installing the lowers 9:55 this creates a vacuum and sucks your forks down
Jm3 MTB definitely DON'T DO THAT! I mounted and dismounted the fork 6 times before i realised that you mustn't compress it. If you go to the sram tutorial for the lower leg service you'll see that they don't compress it.
DONT Compress the fork, I wish I saw this comment earlier. Its true, it will create a vacuum that will prevent the fork from using its full travel. I installed a 150mm travel shaft onto my pike and was frustrated that it would not open all the way. Thankfully I found this comment.
totally agree... do not compress the lowers when reinstalling! like the others already said, sram doesn't recomment it!
Wujas _ yep, just burp with the zip tie
what do you mean with burp with the zip tie? Iam not a native english speaker.. Please explain for me..
Thanks in advance
You never know whether that man is happy or sad...
Oh wait! 11:24, he's happy!
I have a pair of RockShox SID RCT3 on my 2016/2017 Giant Anthem Advanced 29er 1 and I am researching to see if I can increase the travel from 100 to 120 mm.
Any ideas?
Ask a bike shop or go have a deep dive into the rockshox manuals
did he put the lowers on backwards?
Brilliant video guys!
hello, why now in extension you feel a knock as if it reached the end of the stroke. thank you
If I adjust mine from 140 to 160 of travel how donyoubthen account for correct sag? I cant find this answer anywhere. Isnt the location of 30% sag going to change on the stansion? TIA
Just ignore any markings and shoot for 15-20% of 160mm, which is 24-32mm. That’s where the o-ring should sit. Depends on how you set your sag up, but this is a decent ballpark to start with.
Yet another brilliant video tutorial:-) One improvement suggestion. Overall on all your videos, i would recommend to look into how to improve the audio. It seem the room you use for recording is reflecting the audio and is not sufficiently damped making the audio a bit to "tinny"
I've got a question that I hope someone can answer. I have a 2017 pike set to 130mm, and the stanchions show sag scales for both 130 and 140. Can my model go up to 150, or will it only fit the sizes indicated on the stanchions?
I would like to know that as well
Yeah, I'd like to know that too...
Can i use engine oil to put in there?
My just got a 2018 giant bike from Craigslist front forks RockShox Revelation forks only has an inch of travel
Hey guys I have a rockshox recon 120mm travel can I adjust it to 140mm travel?
Can this be done on 2018 rockshox recon rl ?
just remove air spacers you dont need any new parts
@@m_one1 and how much mm cain i increase?
A very detailed and nearly foolproof video - I'm impressed. But I've 4 Questions:
1. Why would anyone go for less mm? I'm looking for as much mm as I can get. Isn't that the whole idea?
2. You only mounted 1 new (in this case a shorter) let's say „screw“ on the right side of the fork. On the other side you left the longer one. Just for this video or in any case?
3. I don't understand why these red plastic parts are for?
4. Are there any forks available that are symmetric? Damper and oil and so on like in motorcycle forks - the same details on each side?
+joelbackman100
1) It is somewhat personal preference but more suspension is less efficient on the uphills and can affect geometry. More suspension is not always necessary and can be a crutch and honestly make ride a pain when climbing hills.
2.) He mounted a new air spring, you have your spring leg (coil or air) and you have your damper side (most of the time air preload unless its dual coil, or nothing but rebound and compression circuits) at least I believe so I could be off I dont think so though from the forks I've studied.
3.)Those are bottomless tokens, they take up extra air volume in the spring leg to help with end stroke ramp up.
4.) I am not sure on this, but I doubt it too much weight and no reason to do so.
+David Schallock
Dear David - thank you so much for this detailed answer. Well about the climbing issue - mine's a Haibike E-Mountain bike, so I couldn't care less. But the (maybe) disadvantage of the higher weight of an e-bike makes more suspension even more smoother to ride.
And about the mm-hype: looking forward the 300 mm bike, so I could start from a first floor window :)
How can i change the travel in a Rock Shox reba solo air 2015, 120mm to 100mm?
Thanks.
Can i lower my 2018 Rockshox judy from 120 to 100mm of travel?
What is the weight for the 20" bike?
Do you need the full sir spring assembly or can you just get the air shaft and reuse the old assembly parts
I've got a question ... can I change the travel Rockshok REVELATION solo air (2017) 140mm to 120mm ?.. same process ? Other way? No way??
can i ask something.. the rockshox xc30 silver can up the travel??..
Hi i have a question for you i bought trek mountain bike with RockShox judy silver front fork 120 mm travel. I had some problem with that fork so i sent bike to shop to fix it they fix the lockout part but now fork is hard and jerky and just travel may be 80 mm. Shop is not considering this as problem so can u help me what is going wrong with it .
Any idea on how to change compression settings?
So there no need to add any kind of oil into upper legs?
How can i change the travel in a Rockshox bera 2015, 120mm to 100mm?
Thanks.
if I want to Increase travel from 150mm to 160mm what do I need? Do I need to change parts on the damper side to?
A little confused ... The comments above mention "... may wish to alter the geometry ..." but if the tokens only fill up some of the air space, doesn't the axle to crown dimension (which drives the geometry) remain unchanged?
No, the A-C changes with the fork travel, which will change the geometry of the bike: Shorter travel means lower bottom bracket and steeper head angle, as well as a tad longer reach.
When fitting a shorter air shaft, the fork is simply not able to extend to its full length. The air spring chamber will therefore also be larger at the point of bottoming out, since you're not using the full travel.
The tokens are there to optimize the volume of the air spring chamber when the fork is _fully compressed_. Shortening travel will make that volume too large if you don't add tokens, so that the spring rate won't "ramp up" as much as you probably want. However, this is a question of how you want the fork to act. Some people want it really linear while others want better support at the end of the stroke, to avoid harsh bottoming out.
More tokens => more "ramp up" of the spring rate, towards the end of the stroke.
Is it possible to increase the travel on a 29er pike from 130mm to 140mm in the same way???
+gavin smith
Yes, it´s just the same way done.
I have 2015 xc30s on my 29er, currently with 100mm travel. would it be possible to increase the travel up to say 120 or 140mm by removing some of those plastic spacers? Thanks.
can i increase the travel of my 26 pike with 160mm to 170mm? maybe with parts from the lyric?
I want to lower my argyle rc 2014 from 100 mm to 80 mm
Hi guys, I had my Reba extended to 120 by changing the inner spring and removing spacers. Result it only gives me 110 of reach (On the fork's bar printed scale it does not reach to 120 but bit more than original 100... Tia x ur answers
i have a rockshox sid rct3. is it possible to adjust my 120mm fork to 140mm?..😊
Hey guys! I want to convert my RockShox Yaris into dirt jumper forks, they’re currently sitting at 140mm of travel and I want to get them down to 100mm. I don’t know the first thing about what this entails or if it’s even possible. Any suggestions?
You'll need a new air spring assembly, which you can probably buy through a SRAM/RockShox dealer.
@@MBRmagazine thanks!
Great video. Can I change a RockShox Recon SL 130mm to 150mm? Thanks
Can I make my oem rockshox 30 silver tk solo air 100mm to 120mm? From reading the service Manuel from sram, it appears there is a spacer in my curryeny 100mm m, which if removed can make it 120mm?
Doghead 007 did you ever do that i have the same shick and want to do the same cant seem to fund anything on it
It is safe to ride??
That's a pretty slick torque t-handle! Where can I get one of those? ;-P
All jokes aside, great video!
Do they not make one for going from 160mm to 150mm on a 650b -_-
Can I increase the travel on Rock Shox Reba RL 29'' from 100mm to 120mm?
Only if it was originally capable of being at 120mm... in other words, if it shipped with the 20mm reduction block in it, then you can remove it and get back to 120mm. Otherwise, if it is a 100mm fork, you cannot magically extend it to 120mm. In the future, it's better to buy a 120mm fork and reduce it to 110mm or 100mm instead of buying a 100mm fork and trying to save a few grams of weight.
Yes you can raise the travel on Rock Shox Reba RL 29'' from 100mm to 120mm, I did it and it feels much better for various terrain
u are wrong, they are all the same forks, they just come with different air spacers
fantastic vid as always
Does this work on a RockShox recon silver?
same
can my xc32 solo air travel change into 120mm ? thanks
I just read service manual for sector, recon and XC32 and they should have simple spacers...less spacers=more travel.
+Hanz Baa thanks for the info, appreciate it
+Hanz Baa would that also apply to a Reba RL? Thank you
according to manual for Reba 2015 it is same procedure like on the video above, so need to change the air spring assembly. But another model year could be different I am not pro...
hello good day sir..i would like to ask if i can also adjust the travel of my rockshox reba.29er fork ..its a 100mm travel.i like to make it 120.im planning to buy an air shaft from a rockshox sid.thanks
Can you increase travel? Or only reduce travel? I have a rockshox coil fork 100mm travel but would like 120mm travel
You can increase it too
Spring assembly cost about 150-200
Question, on a 2018 revelation rc 150 I'd like to go down to 140. Is all that is needed is the 140 shaft?
Yes, but you will need all the grease too
Seeking a solution to a hitch: The damper side foot bolt spins - seems that the threads are tighter than the inherent tension on the shaft. I tried a few suggestions found on other websites: Turn all adjustment knobs to highest levels (lockout, LSC, rebound), compressing fork with a strap. For kicks I tried extending the fork as long as possible too. Nothing worked thus far, bolt just spins in both directions. I don't have access to an impact wrench (another suggestion), but the bolt spins so freely that I'm doubtful that an impact wrench will be much help.
So, aside from cutting off the bolt flange, does anyone have any other non-permament solutions to this? I.e., any way to stabilize the shaft from the top adjustment area?
Joshua Church We had a similar problem on a Pike. In the end, we had to send it back to a SRAM service centre to get sorted.
will this work for a pike going from 130mm up to 140mm? it's a 2015 year model.
go on the rockshock website and look up your fork, it'll tell you all the available travel's
Hi,
Does this work for Duai Air forks?
Thanks in advance,
What fork and year?
Can you do this to a dual air lyrik?
quick question, when a fork is listed at 100mm of travel, but the o-ring is only 80mm up the stanchions, did the fork come from the shop set for 80mm? or is the 100mm including negative travel (correct term?), like if you pull the wheel down it reveals a little more of the stanchions?
As far as I know, the only "negative travel" should come from running an amount of sag. Which means that the fork is somewhat compressed from your own weight on the bike.
However, some Fox forks seem to not extend to its full travel unless you pull the legs. Never seen this on RS forks though.
The o-ring is there to measure sag and to let you know how much of the travel that you have used during riding. If it's "80 mm up the stanchions" after a ride, you have only _used_ 80 mm of the 100 mm available travel. Which means that you could lower the pressure a tiny bit if you want a plusher feel.
Can this be done on Rockshox 30 gold TK
Why don't you add travel spacers? Can you do this on Recon's with soloair?
From memory, only Revelation forks and above can take volume spacers.
does this apply to YARI forks as well? Mine is 130mm, I'd like to have it 150mm.
thx
Great video. You have any idea if this can be done on the newest (2020) models?
Can a 140mm Pike be INCREASED to 150mm using a larger air spring?
Does this mess up the imprinted sag measurements
does the pike dj work the same? I can get the 140mm version much cheaper than the 100mm but I would prefer around 120mm
Yes! I currently have my 2015 Pike set to 100mm using a 26in air shaft.
Does this work on à 2014 reba?
there are many Rebas, the current Reba solo air is eligible, all you need is the correct air shaft for that particular model (32mm) and the exact travel you want
Hi MBR
I have an old mtb(with 26 inch wheels) with cantilever brakes and want to upgrade my old fork but new forks(RS SID dual air) don't have the canti brake mount points so I decided I would get a new old lowers with canti mount and a used upper stanchion. However, even used RS SIDs(post 2000) have 100mm+ travel and the old lowers(before 2000) are all for 80mm travel so would a 100mm travel stanchion fit into a 80mm lowers? From your video is it the air spring assembly that dictates travel length? The RS SID air spring assembly are stated for 80/100mm. So how do you set it for 80mm travel?
Thanks.
Osewani Narimashita Buy a new bike...
Nice informative video!
Hi, I have my Pike changed travel from 150mm to 160mm on 27,5 wheel, may I know if I need to add the bottomless token? Thank you.
i think this depends on your riding style. if you set your sag how you like it and you bottom out the fork very often than you should add some tokens if not you are alright. more travel means less tokens and less travel more tokens when you ride the same sag and with the same riding style
SRAM online manual states 10ml oil in each leg not 5/15
It depends on the model. My fork needs 5/5 (biketechtools.com/forks/oil-volumes/rockshox/oil-chart/642)
Did you replace any crush washers when you reassembled the fork?
My question is could you not just cut the damper down
as I can change the travel of a rock shox RS1 120mm to 100mm
TIP: add 5ml fox fluid to air chamber.. Or other 20w fork oil :-)
what does that do for me?
will be smoother
i converted my pike to 120 and got bored of it being such short travel and i put it back to 160mm
I've just fitted a 160 shaft into my 150 Pike. With the fork pumped up, should i see the seals sitting at the 0% mark? They're currently at the 10% for 160 but 0% for 150. It was a 160mm 27.5 (140 29) shaft before this is questioned. I depressed the rods on both sides as i compressed the legs fully to fit the bolts. Could i have too much negative spring?
Cheers
Just got some advice from a forum which was that the transfer port was blocked with grease due to over-greasing the piston and creating a back pressure behind the piston, preventing free movement in the extend direction. I stripped the fork again and found this to be true.
yes
5:35 - what exactly is the operation here, as it's foxing me? I get the tab has to be out of the way to allow the circlip to pinch. Do I push the tab sideways, so one of the circlip holes lies over it? (I tried, it didn't move naturally but am nervous of damaging the circlip by bending it). Or should it go into the shaft? (Mine doesn't seem to). Ta.
Matt Gillam OK the answer is the head does push into the shaft a little, then it can be rotated under the circlip. Also I don't have the dexterity to depress the air shaft with one hand while doing this, so I protected the shaft with a rag instead, which did work.
Matt Gillam Yeah, I couldn't hold everything together while working the retaining clip and pliers either, so I used an 8" section of clear nylon braided 1/2" ID hose to protect the shaft. Coming off of a big spool, it had a good bend to it that kept it tight on the shaft. Added benefit is that the hose is stiff enough to use to leverage the seal head far enough into the stanchion that putting the retaining clip back in was fairly easy. This was all easier than trying to hold the shaft inside with my weak thumb.
Can't you just unscrew the top cap and change amount of tokens without even doing anything to lower legs?
That only changes the progression, not the maximum travel.
Weird the video says 5 ml on drive side and 15 on non drive side yet Rock SHox says 10 ml on each side according to their 2016 service manual.
This is true but the 2015 version of the specs manual says in fact 5 and 15. Can't find any specific reason for the change though.
+Milli Metric then I will stick to 5 and 15 since I most definitely have a 2015 or even 2014
I would do the same thing. The 2014 manual also states 5/15. Some internals might have changed I guess.
Good video
Great video, thanks!
Didn’t show how to replace air shaft
excellent and simple procedure. Can you do a video on wheel truing / replacing spokes????
Hello, does this work for a xc32 solo air?
yup, xc32's(Solo Air) are essentially Recons without the fancy coated uppers.
do i need a new air spring essebly or can i also change it by another way?
i guess you just would get 120mm on the xc32
nice vid, very useful ;-)
This is a good video for most of this procedure, but the assembly was absolutely wrong. DO NOT COMPRESS THE FORK TO RE-ASSEMBLE. It creates a negative air pressure.
Really nice! I just finished a trip around Europe which was amazing! I put videos on my channel but a camera just can't capture the experience!
Cir-clip over the thumb. It’s the little things…
Hi MBR, i have a pike DJ and have 140mm travel, is it possible to push it to 160mm?
nope...i believe it.s pike 454 and that.s 140mm max...what they forgit to say is that you can only convert up until the maximum travel the fork was designed to take
i see thank you.
Could use a clip-on mic. The audio is no bueno.
very nice!
AMIGO MUITO BOM SE CUIDA VALEU
man crush ahhhh
I always cringe when I see their tutorials, which hit my radar when I saw them do a Hope Pro II service and they were hammering in new bearings using the inner races. Really smart; you replace shot bearings with new ones, but you damage the new bearings upon installation.
Really smart people at MBR. ANd this one delivered, too. Love grabbing the stanchion with the pliers in hand, while he's commenting about scratching the surfaces. These idiots deliver.
the c-clip is the most freakn thing on the planet. I hate you rs for using that system. ..seriously wtf c-clip.
👍👍
Guys, it's 2015 and the video is only 480p... You can do better than that.
You missed a lot. For Example, where and when do you add oil?
This is a very dangerous 'Instructional Video'
My advice is to AVOID
it's not fucking cheap and not fucking easy
old solo air forks just need a piece of plastic which costs around $3. now they've fucked up the whole system
ну и где разгон сам? ты просто разобрал и собрал вилку, дизлайк
"Here comes the (cancerogenic) oil." *no gloves*
could this work with a 2018 reba which has 130mm of travel and convert it to 100mm ?
which year and version is it?