Hi Jack, Great to hear my video helped! This problem beat me up as well before I found the issue. I am giving away a scan tool as well if your interested. The details are on my website www.askthecarexperts.com if you would like to enter. Thanks for posting!
Sorry for the winded comment in advance. A while back, I came across this video trying to diagnose boost leaks as I'm an FBO JB4 and MHD ( I am so happy I remembered it). I have an e92 N55, AT, and it is definitely a WIP. I am slowly DIYing everything as it comes about, doing preventative maintenance when I can afford the time for it. The car started leaking oil after being driven and dumped about half a quart over the period of a year ( I was not too worried about it because I thought it was a crack in the rear of the valve cover, and the car was rarely ever driven and on a battery maintainer) Come to find out while in the process to remove the VC the oil was actually leaking from the vacuum lines into the boost solenoid. I missed this because I assumed the oil was traveling from the VC onto the heat tray and down onto the downpipe. I investigated further and found oil in that line in your video. There was a forum I came across that talked about failing vacuum pumps and how intrusive they are. I reviewed this video again, but having done the valve cover less than 3 years ago, it didn't seem plausible the VC was out so soon. In another forum, someone pointed out that the plastic nipple is a failure point and can cause pump failure because the little internal diaphragm fails and is not an LRC by BMW or most aftermarket entities. Luckily, I found a company that makes them on Amazon, "Link Lock," and replaced mine because the diaphragm had indeed separated. I was hoping that would fix the issue... My theory was that the vacuum pump was allowing oil into the vacuum chamber and causing the leak. I obviously still don't fully understand how the vacuum system works, but I can conclude I was very wrong. I know the vacuum system is responsible for wastegate actuation, the exhaust flap, and crankcase pressure. After cleaning out all vacuum lines and installing the new nipple, the car drove amazingly. Additionally, A shudder/jolt when coming to a stop (2nd to 1st) that I have been trying to remedy for the past 1-2 years also went away. Sadly, driving the car for about 30 minutes brought the oil back. The vacuum chamber had a little oil in it, and from what I can remember, there was no vacuum when removing the supply line (the car had cooled down). I already have the VC on order and will be doing it ASAP. I hope this remedies the issues I am having now; A squeal on a cold start, then not noticeable until about 2k-3krpm (excess crankcase pressure from internal leak causing main seals to suck in air?), 2906 code occasionally occurs, and driving sparingly today there is a definite loss of power, and actual boost is .9psi above what target is supposed to be. I have concluded most of this is attributed to the valve cover; fingers crossed. I am open to any help or guidance and am posting this in case others run into similar issues in the future.
Hello, I have seen this issue for quit some time. I used to think this was from a vacuum pump. What I found was the crank in the valve cover allows the oil into the vacuum lines to the solenoid and the exhaust flap vacuum line. After a replacement vavle cover oil gets back into the resevior because the vacuum lines are already filled with oil. I now replace or blow out the vacuum lines when I do the valve cover for this failure which reduces the amount of oil the returns to the vacuum resevoir in the valve cover.
I was chasing a leak forever...came across this video...took off my vacuum line...saw there was oil in there...I actually held a qtip with needle nose please and stuck it in...the qtio was saturated with oil!!!...thanks a ton!!
Hi Frank! That is awesome! This is a hard air leak to find if you don't know about it. Glad I could share this info with you. Please subscribe if your are not already :)
@@MrSpaceSentry Hello CSR, sorry to hear you have this failure. If you see oil in the vacuum reservoir you should plan on replacing the valve cover and the vacuum lines that have oil in them. If you leave the lines the oil will get back into the reservoir.
Haha, oh man, gotta laugh at this one. Stumbled across this video. So I had this problem for about 18 months before it was finally fixed. I'm quite handy, I DIY engine rebuilds, and I had no clue how to fix it. I finally threw in the towel and took it to BMW. They had my car for about 8 weeks. They replaced everything they could possibly think of. 1 Do a repair. 2 Manually clear CEL code. 3 drive the car again on and off for a few days. 4 code returns. 5 REPEAT. They even admitted to me even with all their hi tech and computers, they couldn't figure it out. So they just started replacing every sensor, valve, etc they could think of. Just make sure you agree to a price upfront like I did for about $400 cause they would've asked for about $8000 in parts and labor from me. Great video - THANK YOU!!
This is a good one, but just wanted to say you can have oil in that reservoir and not have a crack, but a faulty vacuum pump. I had that one bite me once 🥴. Sometimes a faulty vacuum pump will engulf that reservoir with oil. An easy check I do is I pull the line off. If it removed easily, and I didn't hear vacuum escape, valve cover time. If it's hard to remove, and vacuum exists, but it's full of oil, vacuum pump time.
Thanks for this awesome video, I recently purchased a cherry 2014 X5 F15 SDrive with the N55 and I just completed myself the engine flush and ceratec treatment, all air filters, transmission service, rear differential service etc and I’ll be doing the spark plugs, accessories belt with pulleys. Your videos will definitely will be very beneficial to me in the future. Hopefully you’ll have a spark plug replacement video in your content.
Hello, Your very welcome. Thanks for watching. I own a BMW X5 with N55 now as well. I do have a great video on how to replaced the spark plugs on the N55. th-cam.com/video/Kw4GP75YXj8/w-d-xo.html
I hace the exact same issue, motor error message but nothing on the scanner, I've checked that part and found oil, changing valve cover tomorrow, I hope that fix it, thank you for your video
Hi Mas Tec, Awesome! I hope it fixes the problem. Regardless it would need replacement. Make sure to replace or clean out the vacuum lines or oil can get back into the resevoir.
I have a 2012 E84 N20 with the mixture too lean code 2BC0. I am also getting this code 321D: Fuel tank ventilation system and purge air system, minor leak: Leakage greater than 0.5 mm. I notice that this code occurs only when the temperature outside starts rising but never during the winter months which makes sense as gas would expand when it is warmer outside. I have heard this could be as simple as replacing the gas cap (as the sealing gasket wears out) or could be a leak in the EVAP system. Another code that I only get during the warmer months and never during the winter is 2C57: Boost pressure control, plausibility: Pressure too low. I am not getting it right now but last year I would always get it during the summer only when I hit the highway and I am above a certain RPM for a period of time. Last time I got it was last November. I am thinking if it was a boost leak, then it would occur all year long and not only when it is warmer outside so maybe fixing the 321D or 2BC0 code would fix this issue too. Car runs and idles just fine. Idles at around 600 RPM and needle is stable, does not fluctuate. There may be a slight lag between when I press the gas pedal and when the car would react. Starts fine except twice these couple of days where it starts fine but takes slightly longer than when it was colder outside. Starting again when the engine gets warmer takes a bit shorter. I would say the biggest issue I am noticing is the fuel economy.
Appreciate that ! I have been chasing this for a bit. Have you seen this fault create the whistling thats common for the front and rear crankshaft seals? PCV valve is not leaking bit the lean faults are present with no external leaks and the whistling.
The whistling is a sign of the internal PCV failure causing high crankcase vacuum. This then sucks air through the front and rear main seals. If the noise goes away when you open the oil fill cap replace the valve cover. Hope this helps :)
I had the same vacuum leak on my N55 X5 2012 but it was on valve cover PVC nipple. Very hard to locate this leak even with smoke test. Once, I replaced old valve cover with OEM , all my fault codes were gone and X5 ran like brand new...
sorry for the late comment. I have oil in this vacuum reservoir and i’m just wondering how to remove the oil from the pipe connecting to the vacuum pump. How would i go about blowing the old oil and cleaning the pipe? Thanks.
I found this video when I was searching for loss of boost on my end 55 with no codes I found it again when I finally got a code during a 90 mile an hour uphill pass 2c57. My valve cover was already slated for replacement but now I have an oil in this port and loss of boost, I will be ordering my valve cover today. I’m concerned I have additional problem but the valve cover needs to go.
Yup! Make sure to clean out the vacuum lines to the EPDW and the exhaust flap or the reservoir can fill with oil again left over from the previous failure.
These internal vacuum leaks are interesting how they work, I wish it was more theory how that happens. I guess these internal leaks could be measure with a manometer, if crankcase pressure differential is too low and means the CCV has failed or another internal leak issue?
My 11 X5 E70 has been running rough and feels sluggish. I checked my VC after watching this video I do have a small amount of oil in the vacuum reservoir. I don't believe it's coming from the vacuum pump as I removed this line when changing the intake manifold gaskets and didn't notice any oil coming out of the line. It seems like this is an unnoticed issue as there isn't much info online at all on this. I only have 50k miles but have had issues since 35-40k miles. I found a good deal at FCP Euro for an Elring VC for $232. Think I'll go with that. Appreciate your time and help.
Thanks for the comments, let us know how it goes after you replaced the VC. Great diy ...good luck . My VC is leaking also. I will check this vacuum line, when I change the VC gasket.
Could either this or that brittle plastic host you took off...cause a slight enough leak that while not throwing a code...would cause the car to idle a bit rougher yet run just fine under throttle?
Yes, a small air leak can mess with your idle. A smoke machine can help find these leaks. I will be giving one away soon as well! Make sure to subscribe and watch for the details 😀
@askthecarexperts. This line on my car was very brittle and broke while changing the Valve cover. I have the replacement part. Any video and or tips on reinstalling the new one?
Hello, Glad to try and help with that. Do you mean the crankcase line? That can be very brittle. I do have the replacement in my N55 valve cover removal video. Around 11:30 in the video I start taking this off. th-cam.com/video/fZnrM3_qaNw/w-d-xo.html
Hey got another almost unseen air leak ! In the Brake booster Grommet ,i noticed my LFT was over 12 when i put it in park at idle but 3-4 while driving , also hard brake peddle if i let is sit two days ! Luckily under extended warranty .
@@AskTheCarExperts I can tell you beyond the shadow of a doubt any car over 6 or 7 years old will have a field grommet in their brake booster it's just notorious I've had two consecutive BMWs and the last one was an M3
Ty for the lovely video of the n55 and your attention to detail on explanations of air leaks,which i will check on my n55. I have a few questions for you if you could respond please eith you thoughts and opinon>>> ty (1) i have a 2013 x5 35i 150 kilometers on it . ( i purchased it used 2 years ago) when i first start it in the morning (when its a cold morning like 0 degrees only happens ) it engine flares up and down in rpm,like from 550--1200 rpms for 3-4 sec and then it idles at about 650 rpms ,it then whistles for about 3-4 seconds idling only and thats it for that day,it happens too quickly for me to try to figure out where it comes from, it does sound like a alternator belt slipping for a few seconds, but i have checked the tensioner and all is tight and a new belt and no loose or worn pulleys in this department. So, i let it warm up for about 10-12 minutes. then i drive away.( i feel that it do not like to go beyone 1500 rpm at this time because i can feel a slight hesitation in the gas pedal,so i dont force the engine until its completely armed up. there is no codes light up in the dash.and the vehicles seems to be working fine .A "new" top pan and gasket and Spark plugs was installed 3 months ago, because of a small leak from the top pan.this short whistle noise was there before the top pan was installed. and again the vehicle runs fine,But, Question? when the vehicles engine is started up in the morning and if that noise is coming for the Front ENGINE seal.is the Engine Sucking in outside air through that front seal??? or is the crankcase being" pressurized" and the whistling is inside air blowing out around the front seal when it is cold and then seal ups?? ty for your response in advance
Thanks for all the great detail. There may be more than one thing going on but I will do my best to try and help. I think your whistle noise may indeed be the front main seal. I have experienced this exact symptom of the whistle noise on start up. On some vehicles the front main seal lip seal is weak and collapse allowing for unmetered air during a cold start. Unfortunately the only way to test this theory is to replace the front main seal. Also I have seen a lot of cold start idle fluctuations from engine software level. Once the software is updated the idle fluctuation is usually resolved...as long as it is not from the front seal. This is very common on the N55. I wish BMW pit out a service bulletin but that is how I fix a lot of that cold start issues. I hope this helps :)
@@AskTheCarExperts ,Sir Thank you for your detailed information and swift and prompt response, greatly Appreciated Sir!. Question.(1) is it ok for me to continue to use my vehicle, as per normal and as it dont seem to be any issue with driveability or anything else.??? Question (2) So when the vehicles Engine is initially started up cold in the morning,what happens?? is the Air being "sucked" in the engine crankcase,thus causing whistling noise, or is it being" Pressurized by the engine and being pushed Out through the front Seal making this noise until it "seals itself??? .. JUST TO SAY>>>> Oh I know it use to pop a code 2A80 code occasionally "before the new top pan was installed and i had to reset and wipe out that same 2A80 code 2 times after The top pan install and that was 8 weeks ago and it never returned since the reset .One more Question? is this software from BMW a free upgrade or is there a charge for it? ty for you thought and expertise!!! ty
@@battlehrfred Your welcome. It should be fine to drive normally. The whistle noise if from the front main seal is from air being sucked into the engine through the seal. As for the software, there is no parts charge usually just a one hour labor charge to complete the programming. You will need to use a dealership to get the improved software.
@@AskTheCarExperts ,Ty Sir Again for your great knowledge and input/comments. certianly appreciated to hear it from a expert!. I will find out from the dealership what software is on this vehicle at present time ( i think i can check the present software myself by using my Idrive/setting/info Possibly) Again, Thanking you for your prompt response and answering my specific questions!! ty
@@AskTheCarExperts , ty Again sir. so really,if l would spray a heavy type brand of engine oil around that front seal, just before i start it up, on the cold startup, and the whistling noise does not occur, it means for sure it the front seal, As this heavy oil will "seal up the area" momentarily correct?? this will,hopefully, do a "process of elimination" to reassure me that it is in fact that seal.ty
When you were diagnosing this internal valve cover leak did you find smoke going from the intake near the MAF to the oil cap? Also not sure if you did the test the other way around from the oil cap to the MAF? I noticed that I have that oil where the vacuum pump line connects and I am seeing smoke travel from the valve cover to the inlet duct. Not sure if that is a symptom of the internal leak.
Hello, Of you have oil in the resevoir that is part of the vakve cover there is usually a micro crack. Unless it is residual from the lines because if not cleaned out the oil gets pulled back into the resevoir.
@@AskTheCarExperts yeah I did that. I saw some odd results, well I assume. That why i wanted to see if you had the same thing show up during your diagnosis if you remember.
Great Video. I am missing the vacuum pipe that connects to the valve cover and routes to the vacuum pump. I bought the 2016 BMW 535i as a CPO from BMW dealer. It has been missing since I bought it in 2019, however I have never seen any codes. I will take it to the dealer for them to check. Is this normal?
Hello, Thank you first of all for your very interesting video. I notice that I don't have the duration you show in the video, it doesn't appear on REALOEM either. Do you save reason? I have a 135i f20 09/2013. thank you
Hello Thank you for the Video. I have an 2011 e90 N55 66,000km Car runs fine but fuel economy on a long run is poor 8L per 100km . I have the same issue with oil in the Vacuum reservoir. Thought id vacuum test just that part of the cover and it holds vacuum. Bought a cheap after-market Valve cover . Compared it to the original, can't see any difference should i replace the cover . I dont have any fault codes engine runs fine just valve cover gasket oil leaks
Hi Charlie, You most likely have a micro Crack but this should not effect fuel economy if it is such a small leak. Fuel economy is an odd thing to watch and compare because load, temp, driving style, etc all play a role in the value.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thank you soooo much !! I am about to use a new cover. Its just that I thought maybe the boost solenoid could be pulling oil from a leaky valve at the vacuum pump under boost conditions, not sure if this is possible Im still learning how it works Thanks for your reply much appreciated!
Thanks a lot man! I will wait for it, in the mean time do you have a vid on removing the intake manifold? I need to replace the oil temperature sensor and it is right under the manifold...
Hi Eddie, Don't have a video on that yet for the N55. I did finish the N55 valve cover video and I am giving you access to it as an unlisted link here: th-cam.com/video/fZnrM3_qaNw/w-d-xo.html Until I change it public in a few weeks. Hope it helps!
Hey so Im working on a 2016 BMW 2 series with he N55, I did valve cover gaskets after I was finished I started It and got a whole bunch of air/vacuum codes. But in your video where you specifically unplugged the vacuum line, on my car I don't have that connecter I have the hole on the valve color just not the female part.
Hello, Some N55 engines do not use a vacuum solenoid for the turbo. In that case you will not have a feed or output line from the valve cover. I would smoke test the system. You may have rolled or pinched the gasket.
Do they make a valve cover that won't crack and also a proper gasket like the ones that are made for Vanos seals they don't degrade seems to me that would be the easy fix.
I wish they did Mark but over time, use, and temperature everything eventually degrades. Also the PCV system is built into the valve cover and when this component fails it can lead to excessive pressure or vacuum in the engine and can also contribute to the failure. But the complete valve cover does last a long time. Usual life expectancy of a valve cover is between 90,000 to 150,000 miles.
Hey boss i have a n26 4cylinder 328i & im getting code 18401 Mixture too lean Large deviation” I smoked tested & no leaks. I did notice a little oil coming from the oil cap. Could it be a bad valve cover or pcv valve thats built into the valve cover? Im also burning oil …
Hi Eddie, You would replace the valve cover as the reservoir is part of the valve cover. I am editing an N55 valve cover replacement video with full steps and torque. I am maybe 2 to 3 weeks out before releasing.
Greetings, thanks for the video ! I have a stupid question : if there is an air leak, how can it make a lean mixture? Shouldn't the mixture become too rich ? EDIT : I read about it and maybe I got it. Since there is a vacuum generated by the engine (when there is no turbo on), a leak will actually make the engine "suck" more air than calculated. Do not hesitate to correct me if I am wrong, thanks again !
Hello Sajade, That is a very smart question! Understanding how things work will enable you to figure out how to fix the problem. When you have an unmetered air leak, air is getting into the engine that is not monitored from the mass air flow sensor. The engine computer is monitoring the per cat oxygen sensor and when it detects too much oxygen in the combustion it will actually add fuel to the combustion process to reach the correct air to fuel mixture and try to compensate for the unmetered air. So in essence you are correct the mixture is becoming too rich and you are using more fuel and burning extra fuel which effects your fuel economy. The engine computer has a calculation map to make adjustments to the fuel air ratio but when it reaches a max calculation value it will then trigger a fault code. In this case it would trigger a mixture too lean fault....this would identify that it can no longer adjust for the lean mixture or too much air in the system. A too lean fault is in reality adding fuel to the combustion cycle to offset the extra air. That really is a great question. If the fault was too rich then the engine is trying to remove fuel and has reached a critical point to set the fault code. Too rich would be things like a leaking injector or I have seen a ruptured fuel filter with a bypass hose that goes to the throttle boot dropping raw fuel into the intake. There is still one more possibility for faults like these and that is a faulty sensor giving the engine incorrect information. You could only rule that out by verifying no external cause of a failure and then you would suspect the sensor. Sorry for the long explanation :)
@@AskTheCarExperts Thank you so much for your explanation ! Not only it is not long, but on the contrary its enriching - pun intended :). I actually thought that a leak would make air going out (less oxygen actually getting into the combustion chamber) but I did not realize that due to the vacuum in the intake manifold, a leak means MORE oxygen getting into the combustion chamber. More oxygen to the point of going beyond the adaptation limits of the engine for fuel adjustment, and your mix becomes too lean. Thank you !
@@markt9438 Hi Mark, Most modern vehicles no longer react to carb cleamer. For this failure spraying carb cleaner will not cause the engine idle to change.
My 2012 X3 3.5i (F25) threw a 112F code [Manifold Absolute Pressure To Throttle Angle Too High Bank 1]. Built a smoke machine for smoke test, but found this video first. reset adaptation. code cleared then returned soon thereafter. cleaned MAP sensor. no change. Checking this hidden vac leak location [internal vacuum reservoir in valve cover] I have oil pooled inside. So need to replace valve cover, but would this issue throw the 112F code? Don't want to assume this is the only issue
Hello, This code can be from an umetered air leak and sometime from the absolute pressure sensor on the manifold. But if you have an air leak I would fix that first. I am going to have an N55 valve cover video released this Tuesday. Tried to make it the best one out there.
To fix oil in the reservoir you would need to replace the valve cover due to an internal crack. You also should clear out the vacuum lines because the residual oil in the lines can get back into the reservoir and it look like the same failure but it is just the oil that was stuck in the vacuum lines.
Awesome video, thank you! I think I'm going to have to order a new cover soon :D Quick question, while I don't see that reservoir filled with oil, I do see signs of some oil... Do you think this is still a problem? (apologies for the n00b question..)
Hi Omar, Do you have any mixture too lean codes on your BMW? There is probably a small micro Crack but if it is not setting a fault you could monitor it to see if it gets worse. It also might be good to replace the cover to prevent the oil from getting into the vacuum lines.
can you post the part numbers for turbo lines on this n55 engine? I have oil, will replace vc but want to take care of lines that have residual as you mention. thank you!
Hi Travis, I am sure I can help but I not sure which lines you are looking for. Are you looking for the charge air pipe or the oil feed lines directly for the turbo? Can you send me a picture of what you are looking for? The best way to contact me is via my website at www.askthecarexperts.com and use the contact me tab as I am not notified by TH-cam for replies so I may not see your response back.
@@AskTheCarExperts I just read a reply that if you see residual oil it's from the vacuum lines for turbos, if I'm doing this, want to get it done right the first time and order them and replace is all
What about if its a N54 twin turbo with lean codes on both banks? New pcv, all new injectors, new valve cover, new inlets and outlets , new plugs and coils. Still have lean codes on both banks, where would you suggest to look?
Hello Shoua, That I'd an odd scenario. I would recommend doing a smoke test on the intake system and by modifying a oil fill cap so would smoke test the engine from the fill cap. If you had a belt failure it may be a damaged front main seal. Or there is a hidden air leak that the smoke test will help with. Normally with no unmetered air leaks the culprit is the injectors but since you have done them it most likely is something else.
@@AskTheCarExperts I smoke test from the valve cover oil cap and from the intake manifold, air were coming out of the valve cover gasket seal area , a little above the intake manifold cylinders 2, 3,5 areas. Maybe the new gasket that came with the valve cover might be pinch or something. Bolts were all torque to 7-8ftlb. Do you think its the valve cover gasket? Should I replace it ?
@@AskTheCarExperts Now that I think about it, it could also just be the E85 I put in it as well. Giving me a screw up AF mixer. Spark plugs were foul out and wet.
Hello, great video I have been stumped on an oil leek coming from the boost solenoid and or lines. I too have oil in this reservoir. The oil traces back INTO the vacuum pump! Is this ok to replace just the valve cover? The pump lives in oil however I am concerned for its heath as I don't fully understand the way it operates. Im going to replace the valve cover/hoses anyway but I am wondering where all that oil is collecting...in the pump? Is this bad? I have also detected oil in the outlet hose going to the waste gate by applying a vacuum gauge and releasing pressure, I hear bubbling...will this oil ever vacate or am I looking at $$$ repairs Thank you for sharing this tip!
Hello Sirus, I did an experiment recently where I put a clear bag around the vacuum pipe line and ran the vehicle. No oil entered the bag from the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump provided vacuum or suction. I think the main oil comes from the valve cover but gets into the vacuum lines and EPDW. I would recommend replacing the vacuum lines with the valve cover. You may get some oil back in the reservoir from any left over oil but I do not think it is from the vacuum pump. I hope this helps!
I suspect the oil may have been in the vacuum lines that lead to the turbo actuator EPDW and the exhaust flap. If the lines are not replaced oil can get back into the chamber.
I have the same problem ive replaced valve cover and still oil in the reservoir i don't even get any fault codes i even took it to bmw and no acknowledgement towards it whats a good test for both valve cover internal leak and vaccum pump to solve the issue ?? Been buying valve covers like groceries
Hi, thank you for the find. SUBSCRIBED! I have a 2011 535i manual and also have a lot of oil in that vacuum cavity. I recently replaced the valve cover gasket but wasn't aware this was a problem. Do you think this is the cause of my car wasting too much oil? I have NO external leaks at all. Thank you for the input and Happy 2024.
Hello, Thank you for subscribing! Replacing the valve cover would be a good start. Male sure to blow out the vacuum lines as well or the new unit will pull the residential oil into the vacuum cavity. Oil consumption is a tough thing to deal with. While it could also be internal engine wear from the piston rings one other component that burns oil on this engine is the turbo.
@JM-jr4ou You only need to disconnect it from each end and then use compressed air and a blow gun. For the line that goes back to the exhaust flap you would disconnect it at the solenoid.
@@AskTheCarExperts in order to disconnect the vacuum line, I would have to locate the vacuum pump under the intake manifold. Correct? and where is the vacuum line that goes back to the exhaust flap. The only other line i can think of is the one on the side of the valve cover that is for the waste gate for the earlier n55. Does that line also fill with oil?
So I have 2011 535i gt with the n55 engine. Got the p112F code. No visible symptoms besides the CEL. Took this port off and looked in. There is about a 1/2 inch of oil in there. I’m guessing this is a cracked reservoir? The CEL light did go off yesterday but returned a few hours later when parked idling. When i remove the oil cap while car running it has good suction at the cap and no change in engine when removed. Never noticed that before. Looking for your thoughts
Hello, Yes that is from a micro Crack. Make sure to change out the vacuum lines as they can hold oil and get back into the reservoir. That would not be a repeat failure. Just residual from the lines. This could be from a different unmetered air leak as well.
@@AskTheCarExperts okay so there should be zero oil in there then I take it…..just thinking back, this came on a day after adding oil to the car is it possible it was over filled? I am pretty sure I didn’t add too much as it was only a top up but just curious as it did start the day after. I guess from reading your comment I’m asking is the micro crack the only way for oil to get in there or could it have gotten there due to something else and how would I confirm? Could I run the car without the hose on to see if oil comes out the hose or is it meant to suck air up from that reservoir? Thanks for your input
@@newfeebullet5291 That hose comes from your vacuum pump. This supplies vacuum for the turbo. The reservoir should not have any oil. Since thus is a suction oil should not be coming from the oil pump but it can suck oil from a micro Crack into the reservoir. You can run the vehicle with the line off as it would only effect the turbo system. I have put a bad around the vacuum pipe and driven cars to prove it was not from the vacuum pump. Hope this helps.
@@AskTheCarExperts yes it does….thank you so much. I’ll watch for that valve cover replacement video 😉. Ps I emailed you about a unique issue that effects bmw’s in general in cold climates. Imitates a bad battery.
Guys this could be the issue in your car but further diagnosis should be done, i saw this video and had oil in the reservoir so replaced the whole valve cover, and oil is still present, my pwg, vaccum lines are replaced so the oil is not from what is left in the lines. It is from a bad vaccum pump in my case and most of who are in the comment have bad vaccum pump as they still have oil in the reservoir after replacing vc
Hello Abood, Thank you for posting your experience. I don't completely agree with your recommendation. Vacuum is pulling air toward the Vacuum pump which is located on the engine. Hence the term Vacuum not pressure. The oil is usually from residual in Vacuum lines that where not replaced at the same time as the valve cover. It is very rare for Vacuum pumps to fail on the N55.
@@aboodhjee4962 Did you solve the problem? Was it the vacuum pump all along? I have the same issue so I ran an independent vacuum hose from the vacuum pump then used a Vacuum hose tee fitting to the Wastegate and exhaust flap to eliminate using the valve cover reservoir completely. so far with nothing connected to the reservoir its still leaking oil from the ports meaning in my case an internal reservoir leak in the valve cover itself
Great video... I have one question. I have only error code 101F01 (throttle valve angel- absolute pressure intake manifold comparision, pressure too high) I checked like you show in video and there is a oil. Could this be the reason for this error?
Hello, This can sometimes be from the intake manifold pressure sensor being defective. Check for unmetered air leaks. Also if there is a Crack in the reservoir it could cause this fault as well.
Did replacing the Valve cover solve your problem? I just replaced the valve cover gasket, now having a charge-air pressure control, plausible too low fault code appear. I can see a smear of oil inside this vacuum chamber you describe in the video. I'm guess I'll need to change my valve cover as well.
@@daywalker4321 Hi Chris, The valve cover did fix this issue. Double check you vacuum lines to your EPDW wastegate Actuator solenoid. If the vacuum line is off, it is unplugged, or damaged you will get a boost pressure fault.
I have the same problem I think. But my engine is a N20 in a 528i 2013. Recently ran into a problem with oil in my vacuum lines and turbo problems so I replaced turbo & vacuum pump. No more oil in the lines. My Mechanic couldn’t find the problem why the engine light won’t go away still. It keeps coming back. Accelerating feels difficult or kind of delayed. I’m thinking it’s the crankshaft position sensor, cam sensor, timing chain, or valve cover/gaskets with the the built in crankcase ventilation system.
@@AskTheCarExperts I got codes 108F01 intake plenum suspicion of leaks between turbo and intake valves , and also 120308 charging pressure control plausibility pressure too low. I have an upgraded charge pipe so my cp is not cracked. I also just changed my boost solenoid , but I do have a leaking valve cover what do you think the issue is for this code it’s annoying !!
DIY, non mechanic chasing a P2096 CEL (post cat lean mix) on a 2012 X3 with the N52T engine. Smoke test shows no observable vacuum leaks. Replaced Bank 1 Sensor 1 but CEL comes back after reset. Does the N52T have this vacuum reservoir?
Hi Scott, No this would only be the N55. On the N52T if thr belt came off at any point the front main seal is often damaged. Make sure you have a powerful smoke machine with good smoke and pressure. Also it could be an internal leak from the crankcase system.
@@AskTheCarExperts After replacing the post cat bank 1 O2 sensor, the CEL has gone away and not returned (fingers crossed). That sensor looked really charred and was prolly OEM with 137K miles on it.
I think i have the same issue, but i read somewhere that it can also be the vacuum pump, i removed the 2 vacuum lines from the 2 ports on the VC and a lot if oil came out, is that caused by an internal crack on the VC or vacuum pump?
Hello, Since the vacuum pump is creating vacuum and pulling air toward itself this is unlikely the vacuum pump. I think this is often a misdiagnosis. The valve cover is the most likely cause. Hope this helps.
Hello I have BMW 2012 35i 115 000 miles v6 gas. OBD shows code P0171, P0300, P0303, p0304 p112F. I cleaned the sensors MAF and MAP,( with spray) changed the gaskets on intake manifold cleaned as well . Issues is: when start up engine by its self rough idling and its jerks , white smoke comes from the muffler , but goes away after few minutes. I changed the serpentine belt and pulley's ( up and down ) but when idling by it self as I said it jerks and makes noise on serpentine belt and squeaks. I couldn't not find any cracks on air hoses , but when I turn off engine I stick the screwdriver in the hole of cover valve ( shown by your hiding leak ) I see oil on the screwdriver. What could be a problem ? Valve gasket, valve Cover or something else ? I don't see any oil drippings tho, but I saw oil in one of the hoses in air intake so when I took manifold I cleaned hose as well. OBD suggestion is to change MAF and MAP sensor , PCV system hose, EVAP control vale, Ignition coil, tank cap, spark plugs. Tnx
Hello Dalibor, This might be a multiple problem situation but by your description if there is oil in the vacuum port as shown in my video the valve cover should be replaced. Then clear the codes and adaptation values and recheck. Make sure to check the vacuum hoses off the valve cover for signs of oil and replace as needed. I hope you solve it and this helps.
@@dalibormilanovic4389 I am here to help again if needed. But since the valve cover had this issue it would be good to do that first. If you have a shop do it make sure they check your timing to make sure you don't have a VANOS issue as well.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thanks I am doing by my self , and I just broke the valve screw ( the last one , tie to much and it stick in the head) I am waiting on parts to be received and to try take it out. Since I am doing by my self and no shop I would like to send you some pictures maybe you can take look and see if looks normal or not. Do you have time to look over? If do can you can send me your e mail so I can send you the pictures. Thanks in advance
@@dalibormilanovic4389 No problem. I don't want to post my email and get spammed. Go to www AskTheCarExperts.com and go to the contact me tab. Then I can email you back directly.
So I checked and I do have oil in there so I have to replace the whole valve cover to fix this problem? Another question will this issue cause an effect to when you hit the brakes the rpm will jump as I show down like 2 or 3 jumps?
Hello Bud, Sorry to hear your vehicle has this issue. To fix this internal Crack the valve cover would need replacement. I don't think this would effect rpm unless you had a larger air leak with mixture faults. The engine rpm will change as the transmission downshift. That actually sounds like normal operation.
You may need quite a bit if diagnostics to try and figure this type of problem out. Since you have the oxygen sensor code I would want to I soect the CAT with a scope to see if the honey comb is failing. Also a back pressure test to make sure the exhaust is not restricted.
Hi, let's assume that you didn't change the valve cover and still with this issue, is there a problem for the car in near future? In case still as only air leak.
Hello, Not repairing this leak could lead to a mixture too lean fault, excessive fuel consumption, oil getting into the turbo vacuum line which can lead to the pressure converter failure.
Great video thanks for sharing I already subscribe to your Chanel . I check mine and found oil in there . Question one . I have code : 28A0: 0x28A0 Throttle angle - absolute pressure intake manifold, comparison: pressure too high do you think this is related to this internal crack . Second do you have a video how to do a smoke test ? I also looking for information how to perform a clear DME adaptions . Does it requires special tools ? My symptoms is rough idle . Thanks I’m advance for your help .
Hello Alejandro, this may be an air leak with that code so it may be the internal Crack. Also the crankcase hose often can Crack as well. I do have some videos on doing smoke tests that should help.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thanks yeah olí already order the smoke test that you use in your video . This weekend I will try with a basic ideas to smoke test to see if I can find any leaks before the good one arrives . Thanks a lot for you help . 👍🏼
Hi chief My e70 X5 n52 engine IL6 showed one time when I was revving for a few seconds ‘Engine Malfunction Reduced Power.’ No codes thrown. Any suggestions what should I look for? I appreciate. Thanks boss.
@@AskTheCarExperts yes. cold start and is very cold weather. I was just warming it up revving it up to 4K RPM continously for about 6 secs and the 'Engine Malfunction Reduced Power' error showed up. no codes appeared.
@@simplelangperorock Thanks for the additional info. Odd no codes but the warning was on but it is a BMW 😀 If it was a one off time the engine may have been flooded from a short distance move. If it happens often on cold start there is a programming update to the engine computer that often helps resolve this symptom but the dealer would need to program for you.
Hello Coco Loco! Yes that would mean there is a micro Crack in this reservoir. I just bought a 2010 x5 with N55 and my vehicle has the same issue. Ordered a new valve cover from FCP Euro
I replaced valve cover 3 times cause of this. But still find oil in there after new one is put in why would that be ? Vaccum pump or another internal crack for the 4th time. Any ideas ?
Hi Victor, I think oil can sometimes come from vacuum lines going to the wastegate pressure converter from the previous failure. I would start with replacing all the vacuum lines.
@@timvakulich2223 You can smoke it though the intake air tube. One trick you can do is to use a disposable glove to fit over the opening with a small hole in a finger for the smoke attachment. The rest of the system needs to be installed or closed off so you can build pressure.
I purchased a 2015 535i 2 years ago started getting smoke in the cabin figured valve cover gasket job ok went to do the job and talk about leak the whole hose is absent I've purchased the hose but no idea where to start to get to the air pump without over working taking the car apart 🤦🏾♂️ plz help 🙏🏽thnx
Hello, Not all vehicles have this hose installed. If you have a vacuum controlled turbo this hose should be used. If the turbo is electrical the hose will not be used.
There is a large mileage range of failures. I have seen these valve covers fail around the high pressure pump where they can develop a hair line crack and sometimes toward the back of the valve cover. I would say an average life is usually above 120K miles. But I have seen some below 80K. My recommendation would be that if your vehicle develops a leak above the 80K mark to replace the valve cover as a complete assembly and not do just the gasket. This would replace the internal PCV and give you at least another 80K or higher before it would be a concern again. Keep in mind some vehicles that fall under CARB california emission warranty may actually qualify for a replacement under BMW warranty. This would be CARB states only. Some vehicle have a 7 year 70k warranty extension and some have 8 years 100K. Your vehicle would fall under the 7 / 70 K for model year 2011.
Hey, I’m having a lean code and the car isn’t idling properly. I smoke tested it and nothing was found to be leaking. I replaced the pcv valve cap on the valve cover to see if that fixes it because it was sucking air in but it didn’t help my issue. I unplugged that vacuum line and found a decent amount of oil there. Do you think if I do another smoke test with that vacuum line unplugged i should see smoke coming out from there since oil is getting in there and air is technically being sucked in to the engine which is throwing a lean code (bmw code 118001) ? I only have a rough idle but nothing else other than that. Coils and plugs were replaced recently to try and fix this issue. I’m just trying to see if replacing the valve cover would fix my issue.
@@AskTheCarExperts do you think it’s possible to start the car with that vacuum line unplugged and see if the idle gets better since it won’t be sucking air from the engine through the crack?
@@AskTheCarExperts do you think if I smoke test it with the vacuum line unplugged smoke would come out from this reservoir? I’ve smoke tested an N55 that is almost brand new and it doesn’t have that line because it’s a 2016 and no smoke came out of that reservoir. So since mine has oil in it which means it’s cracked internally, shouldn’t the smoke come out from this reservoir when I smoke test with the line unplugged?
Are you sure that is the correct fault code? Can you double check and see if they give you a fault code description. That code looks like a power management code. Do you have other codes besides that one?
I have the same code,it’s say mixture control.fuel-air mixture too lean, and the torque of the car is very weak and the turbo responds late, did any of you encounter the same problem?
This can cause the mixture adaptation to effect driveability. You may also have additional air leaks. A smoke test would help determine if there is any additional leaks.
Great video. Do you know if this could cause other issues like the Whistling from the Front and Rear main seals. I replaced me PCV cap on my F10 N55 a few months ago and everything has been great, however I just started getting a lean code, EGR fuel mixture code and the annoying Seal whistle from the seals. I also installed an Oil Catch can and noticed that I am getting a quite a bit of blow by.
Hello Grant, Can you go into more detail on the PCV cap you installed? Do you mean you replaced the complete valve cover or the oil cap? The seal whistle is usually from excessive engine vacuum created from a failed internal PCV that is integrated into the valve cover assembly on the N55.
AskTheCarExperts Yes, I was referring to a PVC replacement cap like this one here. Cylinder head Valve Cover For... www.amazon.com/dp/B07J9QM12Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I used this part in November and have been driving the car since, but started getting a lean code last week. I will say that my idle has never been really smooth and I went home last night after seeing your video and saw a good amount of oil in the vacuum line. There is actually a small puddle of oil in this compartment. I was just wondering if this could also lead to the seal whistle that is typically heard when you have a failing PCV valve? This was my install of that part. th-cam.com/video/NvA49xcdKkk/w-d-xo.html
@@AskTheCarExperts And that sucks right there when you consider cheaper more reliable lest fragile cars are just a pisser when you think of the money we spend on these cars, like seriously i broke a belt and thought the end of the world was coming with the belt issus these cars have, if its not one thing its the other, but im sticking by it as i know how to maintain cars...
That is a very smart question. This can set a mixture too lean fault code on one or both banks. When the system is smoke tested it will not have any leaks. Fuel pressure high and low will test good. Adaptation values can be reset but the fault will return and the CEL will come back on. In some cases you may get a boost pressure fault as well. The oil can actually work its way into the vacuum line for the turbo and cause it to break down. If you find oil in the vacuum line to the turbo you most likely have this problem. Symptoms besides the CEL may be poor fuel economy due to the air leak.
@@AskTheCarExperts is this part ONLY part of the valve cover? I JUST did my VCG and replaced so many things trying to find 118401 and 11CF30. Is the reservoir removable, at the very least, viewable?
Hello Dilyan, How long ago was the valve cover replaced? It may be residual oil that is in the lines of the turbo solenoid EPDW. When I see oil in this area usually the vacuum lines to the turbo actuator are full of oil and need replacement. This is most likely consequential to the previous valve cover failure.
Well I don’t think so. Got this code when my intake manifold pressure was too high (~950hPa when idling). It appeared when I started up my valvetronic which wasn’t working. Getting rough idling and misfires especially on cold starts. Have smoke tested, no leaks were detected, all sensors were checked, all of them works fine. Replaced VC, no change. Also reseted DME adaptations, still no change. Cleaned vanos solenoids and nooo change at all. Then I decided to disconnect valvetronic servomotor connector to see what happens. And a miracle, engine runs very smooth, intake manifold pressure is about 300hPa and 101F01 and check engine light is gone. But valvetronic is disconnected and it is at maximum lift. Any thoughts?
@@joel10032 No problem Joel, That lines goes under the intake to the vacuum pump. The valve cover section that it goes to acts like a vacuum manifold and supplies vacuum to the turbo waste gate actuator via an electric pnuematic pressure converter EPDW
@@AskTheCarExperts I just did installed Raceworks ignition and coils and I don’t know where I put that hose. I’m looking online to see if I can buy a new one
Hi Jason, P0171 is a mixture too lean fault. This means the vehicle is adding more fuel to offset too much the extra air in the system. This is often from an unmetered air leak and you can use a smoke machine like in my video th-cam.com/video/ZgLmCnn33d4/w-d-xo.html to find the source of the air leak. This should always be the first step and the smoke machine in my video is very affordable amzn.to/3zhYQpG and the intake adapter amzn.to/3eI5fRG But there are other reasons for a mixture too lean issue as well. I would be happy to help you via youtube comments but you can also reach me directly via my website at www.askthecarexperts.com and go to the contact me tab. Best regards, Roger
@@DigitalDissident where can metal one be purchased?? i not long purchased a plastic one and installed it and know nothing of a metal one mmmmm more info. ty
From one mechanic to another, thank you!
This was a lifesaver
Hi Jack, Great to hear my video helped! This problem beat me up as well before I found the issue. I am giving away a scan tool as well if your interested. The details are on my website www.askthecarexperts.com if you would like to enter. Thanks for posting!
Sorry for the winded comment in advance. A while back, I came across this video trying to diagnose boost leaks as I'm an FBO JB4 and MHD ( I am so happy I remembered it). I have an e92 N55, AT, and it is definitely a WIP. I am slowly DIYing everything as it comes about, doing preventative maintenance when I can afford the time for it. The car started leaking oil after being driven and dumped about half a quart over the period of a year ( I was not too worried about it because I thought it was a crack in the rear of the valve cover, and the car was rarely ever driven and on a battery maintainer) Come to find out while in the process to remove the VC the oil was actually leaking from the vacuum lines into the boost solenoid. I missed this because I assumed the oil was traveling from the VC onto the heat tray and down onto the downpipe. I investigated further and found oil in that line in your video. There was a forum I came across that talked about failing vacuum pumps and how intrusive they are. I reviewed this video again, but having done the valve cover less than 3 years ago, it didn't seem plausible the VC was out so soon. In another forum, someone pointed out that the plastic nipple is a failure point and can cause pump failure because the little internal diaphragm fails and is not an LRC by BMW or most aftermarket entities. Luckily, I found a company that makes them on Amazon, "Link Lock," and replaced mine because the diaphragm had indeed separated. I was hoping that would fix the issue... My theory was that the vacuum pump was allowing oil into the vacuum chamber and causing the leak. I obviously still don't fully understand how the vacuum system works, but I can conclude I was very wrong. I know the vacuum system is responsible for wastegate actuation, the exhaust flap, and crankcase pressure. After cleaning out all vacuum lines and installing the new nipple, the car drove amazingly. Additionally, A shudder/jolt when coming to a stop (2nd to 1st) that I have been trying to remedy for the past 1-2 years also went away. Sadly, driving the car for about 30 minutes brought the oil back. The vacuum chamber had a little oil in it, and from what I can remember, there was no vacuum when removing the supply line (the car had cooled down). I already have the VC on order and will be doing it ASAP. I hope this remedies the issues I am having now; A squeal on a cold start, then not noticeable until about 2k-3krpm (excess crankcase pressure from internal leak causing main seals to suck in air?), 2906 code occasionally occurs, and driving sparingly today there is a definite loss of power, and actual boost is .9psi above what target is supposed to be. I have concluded most of this is attributed to the valve cover; fingers crossed. I am open to any help or guidance and am posting this in case others run into similar issues in the future.
Hello, I have seen this issue for quit some time. I used to think this was from a vacuum pump. What I found was the crank in the valve cover allows the oil into the vacuum lines to the solenoid and the exhaust flap vacuum line. After a replacement vavle cover oil gets back into the resevior because the vacuum lines are already filled with oil. I now replace or blow out the vacuum lines when I do the valve cover for this failure which reduces the amount of oil the returns to the vacuum resevoir in the valve cover.
I was chasing a leak forever...came across this video...took off my vacuum line...saw there was oil in there...I actually held a qtip with needle nose please and stuck it in...the qtio was saturated with oil!!!...thanks a ton!!
Hi Frank! That is awesome! This is a hard air leak to find if you don't know about it. Glad I could share this info with you. Please subscribe if your are not already :)
@@AskTheCarExperts i also have a ton of oil, drenched 6 q tips. what should i do now replace the valve cover?
@@MrSpaceSentry Hello CSR, sorry to hear you have this failure. If you see oil in the vacuum reservoir you should plan on replacing the valve cover and the vacuum lines that have oil in them. If you leave the lines the oil will get back into the reservoir.
@@AskTheCarExperts question after replacing the CV how many vacuum lines do I need to change ? It’s only the one that I disconnect ?
Thanks in advance
Haha, oh man, gotta laugh at this one. Stumbled across this video. So I had this problem for about 18 months before it was finally fixed. I'm quite handy, I DIY engine rebuilds, and I had no clue how to fix it. I finally threw in the towel and took it to BMW. They had my car for about 8 weeks. They replaced everything they could possibly think of. 1 Do a repair. 2 Manually clear CEL code. 3 drive the car again on and off for a few days. 4 code returns. 5 REPEAT. They even admitted to me even with all their hi tech and computers, they couldn't figure it out. So they just started replacing every sensor, valve, etc they could think of. Just make sure you agree to a price upfront like I did for about $400 cause they would've asked for about $8000 in parts and labor from me. Great video - THANK YOU!!
Again. what were you problems?? codes? and what did the stealership say rectified the problem? what year is you Vehicle?? N55??
Kilometers ?? ty
This is a good one, but just wanted to say you can have oil in that reservoir and not have a crack, but a faulty vacuum pump. I had that one bite me once 🥴. Sometimes a faulty vacuum pump will engulf that reservoir with oil.
An easy check I do is I pull the line off. If it removed easily, and I didn't hear vacuum escape, valve cover time. If it's hard to remove, and vacuum exists, but it's full of oil, vacuum pump time.
And a faulty vacuum pump, could create internal vacuum leaks? Thank you.
Thank you for making this video! I appreciate the knowledge of the n55 engine.
De nada mi amigo!
Thanks for this awesome video, I recently purchased a cherry 2014 X5 F15 SDrive with the N55 and I just completed myself the engine flush and ceratec treatment, all air filters, transmission service, rear differential service etc and I’ll be doing the spark plugs, accessories belt with pulleys. Your videos will definitely will be very beneficial to me in the future. Hopefully you’ll have a spark plug replacement video in your content.
Hello, Your very welcome. Thanks for watching. I own a BMW X5 with N55 now as well. I do have a great video on how to replaced the spark plugs on the N55.
th-cam.com/video/Kw4GP75YXj8/w-d-xo.html
@@AskTheCarExperts perfect, thanks for the link, will definitely study it
I hace the exact same issue, motor error message but nothing on the scanner, I've checked that part and found oil, changing valve cover tomorrow, I hope that fix it, thank you for your video
Hi Mas Tec, Awesome! I hope it fixes the problem. Regardless it would need replacement. Make sure to replace or clean out the vacuum lines or oil can get back into the resevoir.
@@AskTheCarExperts I'll do that, thank you very much, I'm subscribed to your channel now 🙏
I have a 2012 E84 N20 with the mixture too lean code 2BC0.
I am also getting this code 321D: Fuel tank ventilation system and
purge air system, minor leak: Leakage greater than 0.5 mm. I notice
that this code occurs only when the temperature outside starts rising
but never during the winter months which makes sense as gas would
expand when it is warmer outside. I have heard this could be as simple
as replacing the gas cap (as the sealing gasket wears out) or could be
a leak in the EVAP system.
Another code that I only get during the warmer months and never during
the winter is 2C57: Boost pressure control, plausibility: Pressure too
low. I am not getting it right now but last year I would always get it
during the summer only when I hit the highway and I am above a certain
RPM for a period of time. Last time I got it was last November. I am
thinking if it was a boost leak, then it would occur all year long and
not only when it is warmer outside so maybe fixing the 321D or 2BC0 code would
fix this issue too.
Car runs and idles just fine. Idles at around 600 RPM and needle is
stable, does not fluctuate. There may be a slight lag between when I
press the gas pedal and when the car would react. Starts fine except
twice these couple of days where it starts fine but takes slightly
longer than when it was colder outside. Starting again when the engine
gets warmer takes a bit shorter. I would say the biggest issue I am
noticing is the fuel economy.
Hi Mohammed, for something this you would need to be a member on my channel. But I could answer any quick questions as a comment.
Appreciate that ! I have been chasing this for a bit. Have you seen this fault create the whistling thats common for the front and rear crankshaft seals? PCV valve is not leaking bit the lean faults are present with no external leaks and the whistling.
The whistling is a sign of the internal PCV failure causing high crankcase vacuum. This then sucks air through the front and rear main seals. If the noise goes away when you open the oil fill cap replace the valve cover. Hope this helps :)
I had the same vacuum leak on my N55 X5 2012 but it was on valve cover PVC nipple. Very hard to locate this leak even with smoke test. Once, I replaced old valve cover with OEM , all my fault codes were gone and X5 ran like brand new...
Thanks for sharing your experience Tahir!
Was the torque of the car weak?
sorry for the late comment. I have oil in this vacuum reservoir and i’m just wondering how to remove the oil from the pipe connecting to the vacuum pump. How would i go about blowing the old oil and cleaning the pipe? Thanks.
I'll inspect my car about this. Thanks a lot Sir!!
I found this video when I was searching for loss of boost on my end 55 with no codes I found it again when I finally got a code during a 90 mile an hour uphill pass 2c57. My valve cover was already slated for replacement but now I have an oil in this port and loss of boost, I will be ordering my valve cover today. I’m concerned I have additional problem but the valve cover needs to go.
Yup! Make sure to clean out the vacuum lines to the EPDW and the exhaust flap or the reservoir can fill with oil again left over from the previous failure.
These internal vacuum leaks are interesting how they work, I wish it was more theory how that happens. I guess these internal leaks could be measure with a manometer, if crankcase pressure differential is too low and means the CCV has failed or another internal leak issue?
My 11 X5 E70 has been running rough and feels sluggish. I checked my VC after watching this video I do have a small amount of oil in the vacuum reservoir. I don't believe it's coming from the vacuum pump as I removed this line when changing the intake manifold gaskets and didn't notice any oil coming out of the line. It seems like this is an unnoticed issue as there isn't much info online at all on this. I only have 50k miles but have had issues since 35-40k miles. I found a good deal at FCP Euro for an Elring VC for $232. Think I'll go with that. Appreciate your time and help.
Glad to hear my video helped Bobby. If you still have an issue I would recommend a smoke test of the intake system.
Thanks for the comments, let us know how it goes after you replaced the VC. Great diy ...good luck . My VC is leaking also. I will check this vacuum line, when I change the VC gasket.
Did you change it ? it solve the issue ?
Can you please let us know if this clear you code ?
Thanks
Could either this or that brittle plastic host you took off...cause a slight enough leak that while not throwing a code...would cause the car to idle a bit rougher yet run just fine under throttle?
Yes, a small air leak can mess with your idle. A smoke machine can help find these leaks. I will be giving one away soon as well! Make sure to subscribe and watch for the details 😀
@askthecarexperts. This line on my car was very brittle and broke while changing the Valve cover. I have the replacement part. Any video and or tips on reinstalling the new one?
Hello, Glad to try and help with that. Do you mean the crankcase line? That can be very brittle. I do have the replacement in my N55 valve cover removal video. Around 11:30 in the video I start taking this off.
th-cam.com/video/fZnrM3_qaNw/w-d-xo.html
Hey got another almost unseen air leak ! In the Brake booster Grommet ,i noticed my LFT was over 12 when i put it in park at idle but 3-4 while driving , also hard brake peddle if i let is sit two days ! Luckily under extended warranty .
Hi Mark! Thanks for sharing that! That is one I have not run into yet.
@@AskTheCarExperts I can tell you beyond the shadow of a doubt any car over 6 or 7 years old will have a field grommet in their brake booster it's just notorious I've had two consecutive BMWs and the last one was an M3
@@markt9438 Thanks Mark, I will keep an eye out for that issue.
Ty for the lovely video of the n55 and your attention to detail on explanations of air leaks,which i will check on my n55. I have a few questions for you if you could respond please eith you thoughts and opinon>>> ty (1) i have a 2013 x5 35i 150 kilometers on it . ( i purchased it used 2 years ago) when i first start it in the morning (when its a cold morning like 0 degrees only happens ) it engine flares up and down in rpm,like from 550--1200 rpms for 3-4 sec and then it idles at about 650 rpms ,it then whistles for about 3-4 seconds idling only and thats it for that day,it happens too quickly for me to try to figure out where it comes from, it does sound like a alternator belt slipping for a few seconds, but i have checked the tensioner and all is tight and a new belt and no loose or worn pulleys in this department. So, i let it warm up for about 10-12 minutes. then i drive away.( i feel that it do not like to go beyone 1500 rpm at this time because i can feel a slight hesitation in the gas pedal,so i dont force the engine until its completely armed up. there is no codes light up in the dash.and the vehicles seems to be working fine .A "new" top pan and gasket and Spark plugs was installed 3 months ago, because of a small leak from the top pan.this short whistle noise was there before the top pan was installed. and again the vehicle runs fine,But, Question? when the vehicles engine is started up in the morning and if that noise is coming for the Front ENGINE seal.is the Engine Sucking in outside air through that front seal??? or is the crankcase being" pressurized" and the whistling is inside air blowing out around the front seal when it is cold and then seal ups?? ty for your response in advance
Thanks for all the great detail. There may be more than one thing going on but I will do my best to try and help. I think your whistle noise may indeed be the front main seal. I have experienced this exact symptom of the whistle noise on start up. On some vehicles the front main seal lip seal is weak and collapse allowing for unmetered air during a cold start. Unfortunately the only way to test this theory is to replace the front main seal. Also I have seen a lot of cold start idle fluctuations from engine software level. Once the software is updated the idle fluctuation is usually resolved...as long as it is not from the front seal. This is very common on the N55. I wish BMW pit out a service bulletin but that is how I fix a lot of that cold start issues. I hope this helps :)
@@AskTheCarExperts ,Sir Thank you for your detailed information and swift and prompt response, greatly Appreciated Sir!. Question.(1) is it ok for me to continue to use my vehicle, as per normal and as it dont seem to be any issue with driveability or anything else.??? Question (2) So when the vehicles Engine is initially started up cold in the morning,what happens?? is the Air being "sucked" in the engine crankcase,thus causing whistling noise, or is it being" Pressurized by the engine and being pushed Out through the front Seal making this noise until it "seals itself??? .. JUST TO SAY>>>> Oh I know it use to pop a code 2A80 code occasionally "before the new top pan was installed and i had to reset and wipe out that same 2A80 code 2 times after The top pan install and that was 8 weeks ago and it never returned since the reset .One more Question? is this software from BMW a free upgrade or is there a charge for it? ty for you thought and expertise!!! ty
@@battlehrfred Your welcome. It should be fine to drive normally. The whistle noise if from the front main seal is from air being sucked into the engine through the seal. As for the software, there is no parts charge usually just a one hour labor charge to complete the programming. You will need to use a dealership to get the improved software.
@@AskTheCarExperts ,Ty Sir Again for your great knowledge and input/comments. certianly appreciated to hear it from a expert!. I will find out from the dealership what software is on this vehicle at present time ( i think i can check the present software myself by using my Idrive/setting/info Possibly) Again, Thanking you for your prompt response and answering my specific questions!! ty
@@AskTheCarExperts , ty Again sir. so really,if l would spray a heavy type brand of engine oil around that front seal, just before i start it up, on the cold startup, and the whistling noise does not occur, it means for sure it the front seal, As this heavy oil will "seal up the area" momentarily correct?? this will,hopefully, do a "process of elimination" to reassure me that it is in fact that seal.ty
When you were diagnosing this internal valve cover leak did you find smoke going from the intake near the MAF to the oil cap? Also not sure if you did the test the other way around from the oil cap to the MAF? I noticed that I have that oil where the vacuum pump line connects and I am seeing smoke travel from the valve cover to the inlet duct. Not sure if that is a symptom of the internal leak.
Hello, Of you have oil in the resevoir that is part of the vakve cover there is usually a micro crack. Unless it is residual from the lines because if not cleaned out the oil gets pulled back into the resevoir.
@@AskTheCarExperts i am assuming i have a micro crack since I have some lean fuel and vacuum leak codes. I have a bad idle and misfires from that.
@@valdesadam It does sound like an air leak. A smoke test is a great way to find air leaks as well if there are more. Good luck with the repairs!
@@AskTheCarExperts yeah I did that. I saw some odd results, well I assume. That why i wanted to see if you had the same thing show up during your diagnosis if you remember.
@valdesadam On some cars you can see smoke but others the crack is too small and I use the oil to determine there is an issue with the valve cover.
Great Video. I am missing the vacuum pipe that connects to the valve cover and routes to the vacuum pump. I bought the 2016 BMW 535i as a CPO from BMW dealer. It has been missing since I bought it in 2019, however I have never seen any codes. I will take it to the dealer for them to check. Is this normal?
Hello, Yes some vehicles that use an electrical wastegate will no have this plastic pipe.
@@AskTheCarExperts but should the hole on the vlve cvr remain open versus capped off?
Hello, Thank you first of all for your very interesting video. I notice that I don't have the duration you show in the video, it doesn't appear on REALOEM either. Do you save reason? I have a 135i f20 09/2013. thank you
Hello, Thank you. Can you send me the last seven of your VIN?
@@AskTheCarExperts Hello, J890554 Thank you in advance from Belgium :)
Wow. Good one. Thank you. Excellent.
You are welcome!
Hello Thank you for the Video. I have an 2011 e90 N55 66,000km Car runs fine but fuel economy on a long run is poor 8L per 100km . I have the same issue with oil in the Vacuum reservoir. Thought id vacuum test just that part of the cover and it holds vacuum. Bought a cheap after-market Valve cover . Compared it to the original, can't see any difference should i replace the cover . I dont have any fault codes engine runs fine just valve cover gasket oil leaks
Hi Charlie, You most likely have a micro Crack but this should not effect fuel economy if it is such a small leak. Fuel economy is an odd thing to watch and compare because load, temp, driving style, etc all play a role in the value.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thank you soooo much !! I am about to use a new cover. Its just that I thought maybe the boost solenoid could be pulling oil from a leaky valve at the vacuum pump under boost conditions, not sure if this is possible Im still learning how it works Thanks for your reply much appreciated!
Thanks a lot man! I will wait for it, in the mean time do you have a vid on removing the intake manifold? I need to replace the oil temperature sensor and it is right under the manifold...
Hi Eddie, Don't have a video on that yet for the N55. I did finish the N55 valve cover video and I am giving you access to it as an unlisted link here: th-cam.com/video/fZnrM3_qaNw/w-d-xo.html
Until I change it public in a few weeks. Hope it helps!
Thanks and happy new year to y'all!
Hey so Im working on a 2016 BMW 2 series with he N55, I did valve cover gaskets after I was finished I started It and got a whole bunch of air/vacuum codes. But in your video where you specifically unplugged the vacuum line, on my car I don't have that connecter I have the hole on the valve color just not the female part.
Hello, Some N55 engines do not use a vacuum solenoid for the turbo. In that case you will not have a feed or output line from the valve cover. I would smoke test the system. You may have rolled or pinched the gasket.
Do they make a valve cover that won't crack and also a proper gasket like the ones that are made for Vanos seals they don't degrade seems to me that would be the easy fix.
I wish they did Mark but over time, use, and temperature everything eventually degrades. Also the PCV system is built into the valve cover and when this component fails it can lead to excessive pressure or vacuum in the engine and can also contribute to the failure. But the complete valve cover does last a long time. Usual life expectancy of a valve cover is between 90,000 to 150,000 miles.
Hey boss i have a n26 4cylinder 328i & im getting
code
18401 Mixture too lean Large deviation”
I smoked tested & no leaks. I did notice a little oil coming from the oil cap. Could it be a bad valve cover or pcv valve thats built into the valve cover? Im also burning oil …
Hello, If you are getting smoke from the oil cap with it installed then it should be replaced. But with the cap off that would be normal.
Thanks for the video! If there is a Crack in the reservoir, do I have to replace it? do you have a video on that?
Hi Eddie, You would replace the valve cover as the reservoir is part of the valve cover. I am editing an N55 valve cover replacement video with full steps and torque. I am maybe 2 to 3 weeks out before releasing.
I am planning on replacing the valve cover with an aluminum one. Do you think is a good idea?
@@eddiereyes3235 I just saw that option. Sounds like a good idea to me. Then you don't have to worry about cracking and the pcv should be replacable.
Greetings, thanks for the video ! I have a stupid question : if there is an air leak, how can it make a lean mixture? Shouldn't the mixture become too rich ?
EDIT : I read about it and maybe I got it. Since there is a vacuum generated by the engine (when there is no turbo on), a leak will actually make the engine "suck" more air than calculated.
Do not hesitate to correct me if I am wrong, thanks again !
Hello Sajade, That is a very smart question! Understanding how things work will enable you to figure out how to fix the problem. When you have an unmetered air leak, air is getting into the engine that is not monitored from the mass air flow sensor. The engine computer is monitoring the per cat oxygen sensor and when it detects too much oxygen in the combustion it will actually add fuel to the combustion process to reach the correct air to fuel mixture and try to compensate for the unmetered air. So in essence you are correct the mixture is becoming too rich and you are using more fuel and burning extra fuel which effects your fuel economy. The engine computer has a calculation map to make adjustments to the fuel air ratio but when it reaches a max calculation value it will then trigger a fault code. In this case it would trigger a mixture too lean fault....this would identify that it can no longer adjust for the lean mixture or too much air in the system. A too lean fault is in reality adding fuel to the combustion cycle to offset the extra air. That really is a great question. If the fault was too rich then the engine is trying to remove fuel and has reached a critical point to set the fault code. Too rich would be things like a leaking injector or I have seen a ruptured fuel filter with a bypass hose that goes to the throttle boot dropping raw fuel into the intake. There is still one more possibility for faults like these and that is a faulty sensor giving the engine incorrect information. You could only rule that out by verifying no external cause of a failure and then you would suspect the sensor. Sorry for the long explanation :)
@@AskTheCarExperts Thank you so much for your explanation ! Not only it is not long, but on the contrary its enriching - pun intended :).
I actually thought that a leak would make air going out (less oxygen actually getting into the combustion chamber) but I did not realize that due to the vacuum in the intake manifold, a leak means MORE oxygen getting into the combustion chamber. More oxygen to the point of going beyond the adaptation limits of the engine for fuel adjustment, and your mix becomes too lean. Thank you !
Your trick is carburetor cleaner spraying around the engine wherever there's a crack the engine idle will change right!
@@markt9438 Hi Mark, Most modern vehicles no longer react to carb cleamer. For this failure spraying carb cleaner will not cause the engine idle to change.
@@sajadeshahidpour2008 I was confused about the same thing too!
My 2012 X3 3.5i (F25) threw a 112F code [Manifold Absolute Pressure To Throttle Angle Too High Bank 1]. Built a smoke machine for smoke test, but found this video first.
reset adaptation. code cleared then returned soon thereafter. cleaned MAP sensor. no change.
Checking this hidden vac leak location [internal vacuum reservoir in valve cover] I have oil pooled inside.
So need to replace valve cover, but would this issue throw the 112F code?
Don't want to assume this is the only issue
Hello, This code can be from an umetered air leak and sometime from the absolute pressure sensor on the manifold. But if you have an air leak I would fix that first. I am going to have an N55 valve cover video released this Tuesday. Tried to make it the best one out there.
So if we find oil by vacuum pump line , do we just replace that line to fix that leak ?? Or do we have to change the whole valve cover ?
To fix oil in the reservoir you would need to replace the valve cover due to an internal crack. You also should clear out the vacuum lines because the residual oil in the lines can get back into the reservoir and it look like the same failure but it is just the oil that was stuck in the vacuum lines.
Awesome video, thank you! I think I'm going to have to order a new cover soon :D Quick question, while I don't see that reservoir filled with oil, I do see signs of some oil... Do you think this is still a problem? (apologies for the n00b question..)
Hi Omar, Do you have any mixture too lean codes on your BMW? There is probably a small micro Crack but if it is not setting a fault you could monitor it to see if it gets worse. It also might be good to replace the cover to prevent the oil from getting into the vacuum lines.
can you post the part numbers for turbo lines on this n55 engine? I have oil, will replace vc but want to take care of lines that have residual as you mention. thank you!
Hi Travis, I am sure I can help but I not sure which lines you are looking for. Are you looking for the charge air pipe or the oil feed lines directly for the turbo? Can you send me a picture of what you are looking for? The best way to contact me is via my website at www.askthecarexperts.com and use the contact me tab as I am not notified by TH-cam for replies so I may not see your response back.
@@AskTheCarExperts I just read a reply that if you see residual oil it's from the vacuum lines for turbos, if I'm doing this, want to get it done right the first time and order them and replace is all
What about if its a N54 twin turbo with lean codes on both banks? New pcv, all new injectors, new valve cover, new inlets and outlets , new plugs and coils.
Still have lean codes on both banks, where would you suggest to look?
Hello Shoua, That I'd an odd scenario. I would recommend doing a smoke test on the intake system and by modifying a oil fill cap so would smoke test the engine from the fill cap. If you had a belt failure it may be a damaged front main seal. Or there is a hidden air leak that the smoke test will help with. Normally with no unmetered air leaks the culprit is the injectors but since you have done them it most likely is something else.
@@AskTheCarExperts
I smoke test from the valve cover oil cap and from the intake manifold, air were coming out of the valve cover gasket seal area , a little above the intake manifold cylinders 2, 3,5 areas.
Maybe the new gasket that came with the valve cover might be pinch or something. Bolts were all torque to 7-8ftlb.
Do you think its the valve cover gasket?
Should I replace it ?
@@AskTheCarExperts
Now that I think about it, it could also just be the E85 I put in it as well. Giving me a screw up AF mixer. Spark plugs were foul out and wet.
Hello, great video I have been stumped on an oil leek coming from the boost solenoid and or lines. I too have oil in this reservoir. The oil traces back INTO the vacuum pump! Is this ok to replace just the valve cover? The pump lives in oil however I am concerned for its heath as I don't fully understand the way it operates. Im going to replace the valve cover/hoses anyway but I am wondering where all that oil is collecting...in the pump? Is this bad? I have also detected oil in the outlet hose going to the waste gate by applying a vacuum gauge and releasing pressure, I hear bubbling...will this oil ever vacate or am I looking at $$$ repairs Thank you for sharing this tip!
Hello Sirus, I did an experiment recently where I put a clear bag around the vacuum pipe line and ran the vehicle. No oil entered the bag from the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump provided vacuum or suction. I think the main oil comes from the valve cover but gets into the vacuum lines and EPDW. I would recommend replacing the vacuum lines with the valve cover. You may get some oil back in the reservoir from any left over oil but I do not think it is from the vacuum pump. I hope this helps!
Very helpful. I replaced complete valve cover and 2 test drives later oil in pcv chamber again, any ideas?
I suspect the oil may have been in the vacuum lines that lead to the turbo actuator EPDW and the exhaust flap. If the lines are not replaced oil can get back into the chamber.
I have the same problem ive replaced valve cover and still oil in the reservoir i don't even get any fault codes i even took it to bmw and no acknowledgement towards it whats a good test for both valve cover internal leak and vaccum pump to solve the issue ?? Been buying valve covers like groceries
@@Xkonvic did you find out? i have oil in mine and make low boost with now codes
I own a 2011 BMW 535i xdrive and that tube is actually ripped off, do you have a site that I can buy the exact part from?
Hello, If you are referring to the crankcase vent line, here is the link to the part on amazon. amzn.to/3SALYpz
@@AskTheCarExpertsapologies I mean that connecter you gently pulled off with the screwdriver at 3:00
Hi, thank you for the find. SUBSCRIBED! I have a 2011 535i manual and also have a lot of oil in that vacuum cavity. I recently replaced the valve cover gasket but wasn't aware this was a problem. Do you think this is the cause of my car wasting too much oil? I have NO external leaks at all. Thank you for the input and Happy 2024.
Hello, Thank you for subscribing! Replacing the valve cover would be a good start. Male sure to blow out the vacuum lines as well or the new unit will pull the residential oil into the vacuum cavity. Oil consumption is a tough thing to deal with. While it could also be internal engine wear from the piston rings one other component that burns oil on this engine is the turbo.
@@AskTheCarExpertshow would i go about blowing the oil out of the vacuum line?
@JM-jr4ou You only need to disconnect it from each end and then use compressed air and a blow gun. For the line that goes back to the exhaust flap you would disconnect it at the solenoid.
@@AskTheCarExperts in order to disconnect the vacuum line, I would have to locate the vacuum pump under the intake manifold. Correct? and where is the vacuum line that goes back to the exhaust flap. The only other line i can think of is the one on the side of the valve cover that is for the waste gate for the earlier n55. Does that line also fill with oil?
How do you fix this issue? New valve cover?
Correct, New valve cover and blow out the vacuum lines. :)
I recently replaced my entire valve cover and gasket , still somehow having a vacuum leak
So I have 2011 535i gt with the n55 engine. Got the p112F code. No visible symptoms besides the CEL. Took this port off and looked in. There is about a 1/2 inch of oil in there. I’m guessing this is a cracked reservoir? The CEL light did go off yesterday but returned a few hours later when parked idling. When i remove the oil cap while car running it has good suction at the cap and no change in engine when removed. Never noticed that before. Looking for your thoughts
Correction less then a quarter inch
Hello, Yes that is from a micro Crack. Make sure to change out the vacuum lines as they can hold oil and get back into the reservoir. That would not be a repeat failure. Just residual from the lines. This could be from a different unmetered air leak as well.
@@AskTheCarExperts okay so there should be zero oil in there then I take it…..just thinking back, this came on a day after adding oil to the car is it possible it was over filled? I am pretty sure I didn’t add too much as it was only a top up but just curious as it did start the day after.
I guess from reading your comment I’m asking is the micro crack the only way for oil to get in there or could it have gotten there due to something else and how would I confirm? Could I run the car without the hose on to see if oil comes out the hose or is it meant to suck air up from that reservoir?
Thanks for your input
@@newfeebullet5291 That hose comes from your vacuum pump. This supplies vacuum for the turbo. The reservoir should not have any oil. Since thus is a suction oil should not be coming from the oil pump but it can suck oil from a micro Crack into the reservoir. You can run the vehicle with the line off as it would only effect the turbo system. I have put a bad around the vacuum pipe and driven cars to prove it was not from the vacuum pump. Hope this helps.
@@AskTheCarExperts yes it does….thank you so much. I’ll watch for that valve cover replacement video 😉.
Ps I emailed you about a unique issue that effects bmw’s in general in cold climates. Imitates a bad battery.
Good find! 😊
Hi James! This leak led me on a chase for a while until I found this. I always check this spot now. 🤣
@@AskTheCarExperts Hey Bud, I'm getting P0171. I think it's because I need a tune. I'm flowing too much air. More than fuel can keep up with.
Guys this could be the issue in your car but further diagnosis should be done, i saw this video and had oil in the reservoir so replaced the whole valve cover, and oil is still present, my pwg, vaccum lines are replaced so the oil is not from what is left in the lines. It is from a bad vaccum pump in my case and most of who are in the comment have bad vaccum pump as they still have oil in the reservoir after replacing vc
Hello Abood, Thank you for posting your experience. I don't completely agree with your recommendation. Vacuum is pulling air toward the Vacuum pump which is located on the engine. Hence the term Vacuum not pressure. The oil is usually from residual in Vacuum lines that where not replaced at the same time as the valve cover. It is very rare for Vacuum pumps to fail on the N55.
The vaccum pump is the issue, oil runs in the vaccum pump and seals may leak oil with time, which was in my case and many others
I was not sure at first but many of your comments say that they replaced the valve cover and the issue didnt resolve
This is not oil residual from the lines
@@aboodhjee4962 Did you solve the problem?
Was it the vacuum pump all along?
I have the same issue so I ran an independent vacuum hose from the vacuum pump then used a Vacuum hose tee fitting to the Wastegate and exhaust flap to eliminate using the valve cover reservoir completely. so far with nothing connected to the reservoir its still leaking oil from the ports meaning in my case an internal reservoir leak in the valve cover itself
This is only on pwg cars, would it be similar for wag even though they don’t have that vacuum line?
I have not seen this failure on electronic throttle vehicles but it would be possible since the reservoir area is still part of the valve cover.
Thanks so much for the help.
Glad the video helped! I plan on making some more informative videos like this one.
Great video... I have one question. I have only error code 101F01 (throttle valve angel- absolute pressure intake manifold comparision, pressure too high) I checked like you show in video and there is a oil. Could this be the reason for this error?
Hello, This can sometimes be from the intake manifold pressure sensor being defective. Check for unmetered air leaks. Also if there is a Crack in the reservoir it could cause this fault as well.
@@AskTheCarExperts I checked on smoke there is no air leaks i think i need replace valve cover. 😑😁🤦♂️
Did replacing the Valve cover solve your problem? I just replaced the valve cover gasket, now having a charge-air pressure control, plausible too low fault code appear.
I can see a smear of oil inside this vacuum chamber you describe in the video. I'm guess I'll need to change my valve cover as well.
@@daywalker4321 Hi Chris, The valve cover did fix this issue. Double check you vacuum lines to your EPDW wastegate Actuator solenoid. If the vacuum line is off, it is unplugged, or damaged you will get a boost pressure fault.
@@AskTheCarExperts which vacuum lines to the waste gate actuator. You mean the two vacuum lines pluging into the side of the valve cover t. ?
I have the same problem I think. But my engine is a N20 in a 528i 2013. Recently ran into a problem with oil in my vacuum lines and turbo problems so I replaced turbo & vacuum pump. No more oil in the lines. My Mechanic couldn’t find the problem why the engine light won’t go away still. It keeps coming back. Accelerating feels difficult or kind of delayed. I’m thinking it’s the crankshaft position sensor, cam sensor, timing chain, or valve cover/gaskets with the the built in crankcase ventilation system.
Hello, Sorry to hear you have an issue with your N20. Are you getting mixture too lean codes or turbo boost pressure too low codes?
Kool tips.thabk you sharing
Thank you for posting! I appreciate the feedback!
I always appreciate the time you take to make such a video....keep up the good work brother
So to fix internal vacuum leak replace entire valve cover ?
Correct, The fix is a valve cover replacement.
@@AskTheCarExperts I got codes 108F01 intake plenum suspicion of leaks between turbo and intake valves , and also 120308 charging pressure control plausibility pressure too low. I have an upgraded charge pipe so my cp is not cracked. I also just changed my boost solenoid , but I do have a leaking valve cover what do you think the issue is for this code it’s annoying !!
DIY, non mechanic chasing a P2096 CEL (post cat lean mix) on a 2012 X3 with the N52T engine. Smoke test shows no observable vacuum leaks. Replaced Bank 1 Sensor 1 but CEL comes back after reset. Does the N52T have this vacuum reservoir?
Hi Scott, No this would only be the N55. On the N52T if thr belt came off at any point the front main seal is often damaged. Make sure you have a powerful smoke machine with good smoke and pressure. Also it could be an internal leak from the crankcase system.
@@AskTheCarExperts which belt?
@@eighties8 Serpentine belt. This just happened to my friend and I will have upcoming videos on repairing
@@AskTheCarExperts After replacing the post cat bank 1 O2 sensor, the CEL has gone away and not returned (fingers crossed). That sensor looked really charred and was prolly OEM with 137K miles on it.
Do i have to change the whole valve cover then?
Hi Colin, Yes the valve cover would need replacement to fix this issue. :)
Had quite a bit of oil in that vaccuum reservoir. Changed the valve cover but still throwing up a P112F code
I think i have the same issue, but i read somewhere that it can also be the vacuum pump, i removed the 2 vacuum lines from the 2 ports on the VC and a lot if oil came out, is that caused by an internal crack on the VC or vacuum pump?
Hello, Since the vacuum pump is creating vacuum and pulling air toward itself this is unlikely the vacuum pump. I think this is often a misdiagnosis. The valve cover is the most likely cause. Hope this helps.
@@AskTheCarExperts just ordered a VC, thanks mate.
@@AskTheCarExperts just to give you an update, installed the new VC and still getting the same result, suggestions would be highly appreciated.
@@euddys Hello Euddy, What result are you getting? Do you have a symptom along with the oil leak?
@@AskTheCarExperts i don't have oil leaks anymore, but i do have oil on the new VC like on your video
So how do you fix im having the same issue. I changed front seal, rear seal and valve cover im still having this noise
Does the noise go away with the oil fill cap removed?
Will it completely fill or will you just see a little bit of oil droplets or residue
Hello
I have BMW 2012 35i 115 000 miles v6 gas. OBD shows code P0171, P0300, P0303, p0304 p112F. I cleaned the sensors MAF and MAP,( with spray) changed the gaskets on intake manifold cleaned as well .
Issues is: when start up engine by its self rough idling and its jerks , white smoke comes from the muffler , but goes away after few minutes. I changed the serpentine belt and pulley's ( up and down ) but when idling by it self as I said it jerks and makes noise on serpentine belt and squeaks. I couldn't not find any cracks on air hoses , but when I turn off engine I stick the screwdriver in the hole of cover valve ( shown by your hiding leak ) I see oil on the screwdriver. What could be a problem ? Valve gasket, valve Cover or something else ? I don't see any oil drippings tho, but I saw oil in one of the hoses in air intake so when I took manifold I cleaned hose as well. OBD suggestion is to change MAF and MAP sensor , PCV system hose, EVAP control vale, Ignition coil, tank cap, spark plugs. Tnx
Hello Dalibor, This might be a multiple problem situation but by your description if there is oil in the vacuum port as shown in my video the valve cover should be replaced. Then clear the codes and adaptation values and recheck. Make sure to check the vacuum hoses off the valve cover for signs of oil and replace as needed. I hope you solve it and this helps.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thanks for quick response and for the answer . I will change cover and see if solves other problems as well.
@@dalibormilanovic4389 I am here to help again if needed. But since the valve cover had this issue it would be good to do that first. If you have a shop do it make sure they check your timing to make sure you don't have a VANOS issue as well.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thanks I am doing by my self , and I just broke the valve screw ( the last one , tie to much and it stick in the head) I am waiting on parts to be received and to try take it out. Since I am doing by my self and no shop I would like to send you some pictures maybe you can take look and see if looks normal or not. Do you have time to look over? If do can you can send me your e mail so I can send you the pictures. Thanks in advance
@@dalibormilanovic4389 No problem. I don't want to post my email and get spammed. Go to www AskTheCarExperts.com and go to the contact me tab. Then I can email you back directly.
What were the symptoms?
This was a mixture too lean codes and engine stalling.
Thanks 👍👍
So I checked and I do have oil in there so I have to replace the whole valve cover to fix this problem? Another question will this issue cause an effect to when you hit the brakes the rpm will jump as I show down like 2 or 3 jumps?
Hello Bud,
Sorry to hear your vehicle has this issue. To fix this internal Crack the valve cover would need replacement. I don't think this would effect rpm unless you had a larger air leak with mixture faults. The engine rpm will change as the transmission downshift. That actually sounds like normal operation.
@@AskTheCarExperts yeah I got a new one on the way tomorrow I do have the oil in there
👍 thank you!
Make sure to blow out the vacuum lines or oil will get back into the reservoir.
Having the same issues p3022 car feels flat nothin coming up through a smoke test primary o2 changed any idea what ir could be electronic waste gate
You may need quite a bit if diagnostics to try and figure this type of problem out. Since you have the oxygen sensor code I would want to I soect the CAT with a scope to see if the honey comb is failing. Also a back pressure test to make sure the exhaust is not restricted.
Hi, let's assume that you didn't change the valve cover and still with this issue, is there a problem for the car in near future? In case still as only air leak.
Hello, Not repairing this leak could lead to a mixture too lean fault, excessive fuel consumption, oil getting into the turbo vacuum line which can lead to the pressure converter failure.
Great video thanks for sharing I already subscribe to your Chanel . I check mine and found oil in there .
Question one . I have code : 28A0: 0x28A0 Throttle angle - absolute pressure intake manifold, comparison:
pressure too high do you think this is related to this internal crack .
Second do you have a video how to do a smoke test ?
I also looking for information how to perform a clear DME adaptions . Does it requires special tools ?
My symptoms is rough idle .
Thanks I’m advance for your help .
Hello Alejandro, this may be an air leak with that code so it may be the internal Crack. Also the crankcase hose often can Crack as well. I do have some videos on doing smoke tests that should help.
@@AskTheCarExperts
Thanks yeah olí already order the smoke test that you use in your video .
This weekend I will try with a basic ideas to smoke test to see if I can find any leaks before the good one arrives .
Thanks a lot for you help . 👍🏼
@@nitolin Awesome! Let me know how it goes.
Would this Vacuum give a code ?
Mixture too lean code normally.
N54? Not engine for N55. My intake doesn’t wrap around like shown, it’s in the front
N55 but this would only be for turbos with vacuum activation. Some do not have this with electronic wastegate.
Hi chief
My e70 X5 n52 engine IL6 showed one time when I was revving for a few seconds ‘Engine Malfunction Reduced Power.’
No codes thrown. Any suggestions what should I look for? I appreciate. Thanks boss.
Hello, Did this happen on a cold start and selecting drive or reverse or coming to a stop? Do you have any long crank in the morning?
@@AskTheCarExperts
yes. cold start and is very cold weather.
I was just warming it up revving it up to 4K RPM continously for about 6 secs and the 'Engine Malfunction Reduced Power' error showed up.
no codes appeared.
@@simplelangperorock Thanks for the additional info. Odd no codes but the warning was on but it is a BMW 😀 If it was a one off time the engine may have been flooded from a short distance move. If it happens often on cold start there is a programming update to the engine computer that often helps resolve this symptom but the dealer would need to program for you.
So I looked inside mine and there is oil in there does that mean i have a crack?
Hello Coco Loco! Yes that would mean there is a micro Crack in this reservoir. I just bought a 2010 x5 with N55 and my vehicle has the same issue. Ordered a new valve cover from FCP Euro
Thank you! Its not filled all the way but i stuck a screw driver in there and its definitely oil.
I replaced valve cover 3 times cause of this. But still find oil in there after new one is put in why would that be ? Vaccum pump or another internal crack for the 4th time. Any ideas ?
Hi Victor, I think oil can sometimes come from vacuum lines going to the wastegate pressure converter from the previous failure. I would start with replacing all the vacuum lines.
I’m missing that vacuum line on mine335i. I saw opening and thought it was normal. Gotta order one ASAP
Hi Ton,
Not all N55's use this vacuum tube. Some do have an opening and no line attached. Most likely you have the design that dies not use this hose.
@@AskTheCarExperts I don’t have that hose either. On my 2016 n55 but I am getting a bank lean code??
@@timvakulich2223 A smoke test should be performed to determine if you have any leaks.
@@AskTheCarExperts hey if get a vape , he would I be able to text it? For a p0171 bank 1 code
@@timvakulich2223 You can smoke it though the intake air tube. One trick you can do is to use a disposable glove to fit over the opening with a small hole in a finger for the smoke attachment. The rest of the system needs to be installed or closed off so you can build pressure.
I purchased a 2015 535i 2 years ago started getting smoke in the cabin figured valve cover gasket job ok went to do the job and talk about leak the whole hose is absent I've purchased the hose but no idea where to start to get to the air pump without over working taking the car apart 🤦🏾♂️ plz help 🙏🏽thnx
Hello, Not all vehicles have this hose installed. If you have a vacuum controlled turbo this hose should be used. If the turbo is electrical the hose will not be used.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks after reading more i got it
What is the average life of these valve covers? Another problem is the integrated pcv valve too. I have a 11 335i Msport with 85k miles.
There is a large mileage range of failures. I have seen these valve covers fail around the high pressure pump where they can develop a hair line crack and sometimes toward the back of the valve cover. I would say an average life is usually above 120K miles. But I have seen some below 80K. My recommendation would be that if your vehicle develops a leak above the 80K mark to replace the valve cover as a complete assembly and not do just the gasket. This would replace the internal PCV and give you at least another 80K or higher before it would be a concern again. Keep in mind some vehicles that fall under CARB california emission warranty may actually qualify for a replacement under BMW warranty. This would be CARB states only. Some vehicle have a 7 year 70k warranty extension and some have 8 years 100K. Your vehicle would fall under the 7 / 70 K for model year 2011.
Hey, I’m having a lean code and the car isn’t idling properly. I smoke tested it and nothing was found to be leaking. I replaced the pcv valve cap on the valve cover to see if that fixes it because it was sucking air in but it didn’t help my issue. I unplugged that vacuum line and found a decent amount of oil there. Do you think if I do another smoke test with that vacuum line unplugged i should see smoke coming out from there since oil is getting in there and air is technically being sucked in to the engine which is throwing a lean code (bmw code 118001) ?
I only have a rough idle but nothing else other than that. Coils and plugs were replaced recently to try and fix this issue. I’m just trying to see if replacing the valve cover would fix my issue.
Hello Elie, If you have oil in the vacuum chamber this can definitely be the cause of your too lean issue.
@@AskTheCarExperts do you think it’s possible to start the car with that vacuum line unplugged and see if the idle gets better since it won’t be sucking air from the engine through the crack?
@@lalloussH You can try but since the crack is internal to the chamber, I don't think it would be a valid test.
@@AskTheCarExperts do you think if I smoke test it with the vacuum line unplugged smoke would come out from this reservoir? I’ve smoke tested an N55 that is almost brand new and it doesn’t have that line because it’s a 2016 and no smoke came out of that reservoir. So since mine has oil in it which means it’s cracked internally, shouldn’t the smoke come out from this reservoir when I smoke test with the line unplugged?
Is the code 2BEB related to these if so can please help me out
Are you sure that is the correct fault code? Can you double check and see if they give you a fault code description. That code looks like a power management code. Do you have other codes besides that one?
I change valve cover gasket and after that the car was slow and i am sure the reason is air, everything is fine on first sigh
Sorry to hear that Peter. Normal mistake is rolling the gasket in the back corner.
I have a mixture too lean and mixture too rich code as well as air volume plausibility; high volume
Sorry to hear you have this issue. What model BMW and what engine?
I'll check mine. Is the fix a new VC?
Correct, the fix for this crazy problem is a complete valve cover.
I have the same code,it’s say mixture control.fuel-air mixture too lean, and the torque of the car is very weak and the turbo responds late, did any of you encounter the same problem?
My car is 2012 535i
This can cause the mixture adaptation to effect driveability. You may also have additional air leaks. A smoke test would help determine if there is any additional leaks.
Great video. Do you know if this could cause other issues like the Whistling from the Front and Rear main seals. I replaced me PCV cap on my F10 N55 a few months ago and everything has been great, however I just started getting a lean code, EGR fuel mixture code and the annoying Seal whistle from the seals. I also installed an Oil Catch can and noticed that I am getting a quite a bit of blow by.
Hello Grant, Can you go into more detail on the PCV cap you installed? Do you mean you replaced the complete valve cover or the oil cap? The seal whistle is usually from excessive engine vacuum created from a failed internal PCV that is integrated into the valve cover assembly on the N55.
AskTheCarExperts Yes, I was referring to a PVC replacement cap like this one here. Cylinder head Valve Cover For... www.amazon.com/dp/B07J9QM12Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used this part in November and have been driving the car since, but started getting a lean code last week. I will say that my idle has never been really smooth and I went home last night after seeing your video and saw a good amount of oil in the vacuum line. There is actually a small puddle of oil in this compartment. I was just wondering if this could also lead to the seal whistle that is typically heard when you have a failing PCV valve?
This was my install of that part.
th-cam.com/video/NvA49xcdKkk/w-d-xo.html
BMW and their cheap plastics seriously, they need to recall all cars and redo them at no charge. Still love my 135i tho...
The 135 is a fun car! The valve covers usually last about 100k miles give or take :)
@@AskTheCarExperts And that sucks right there when you consider cheaper more reliable lest fragile cars are just a pisser when you think of the money we spend on these cars, like seriously i broke a belt and thought the end of the world was coming with the belt issus these cars have, if its not one thing its the other, but im sticking by it as i know how to maintain cars...
You got that right ...they need to recall all BMWs...get them off the road!
what are the beginning symptoms of this leak? Is a code thrown? if so, what is it/are they? How is the drive affected?
That is a very smart question. This can set a mixture too lean fault code on one or both banks. When the system is smoke tested it will not have any leaks. Fuel pressure high and low will test good. Adaptation values can be reset but the fault will return and the CEL will come back on. In some cases you may get a boost pressure fault as well. The oil can actually work its way into the vacuum line for the turbo and cause it to break down. If you find oil in the vacuum line to the turbo you most likely have this problem. Symptoms besides the CEL may be poor fuel economy due to the air leak.
@@AskTheCarExperts is this part ONLY part of the valve cover? I JUST did my VCG and replaced so many things trying to find 118401 and 11CF30. Is the reservoir removable, at the very least, viewable?
@@AskTheCarExperts is the boost pressure fault 112F?
@@nevrcm3261 P112F Sets when the monitored mad air is above the limit. Basically a fancy way of saying unmetered air leak.
I have oil in and in vacum pipe from valvecover in boost selenoid but mu valve cover is new from BMW
Hello Dilyan, How long ago was the valve cover replaced? It may be residual oil that is in the lines of the turbo solenoid EPDW. When I see oil in this area usually the vacuum lines to the turbo actuator are full of oil and need replacement. This is most likely consequential to the previous valve cover failure.
I don’t have this vacuum line on my x5 f15 n55
Not all vehicles use the vacuum port so you would not have anything attached to his location.
i have lean mixture 2 error, my rpms are jumping and my fuel consumption is bigger, cant find anything that would help me
my rpms are 600, not too low on idle?
is it possbile to get 101F01 code with this leak?
That code is usually a bad pressure sensor at the intake manifold.
Well I don’t think so. Got this code when my intake manifold pressure was too high (~950hPa when idling). It appeared when I started up my valvetronic which wasn’t working. Getting rough idling and misfires especially on cold starts. Have smoke tested, no leaks were detected, all sensors were checked, all of them works fine. Replaced VC, no change. Also reseted DME adaptations, still no change. Cleaned vanos solenoids and nooo change at all. Then I decided to disconnect valvetronic servomotor connector to see what happens. And a miracle, engine runs very smooth, intake manifold pressure is about 300hPa and 101F01 and check engine light is gone. But valvetronic is disconnected and it is at maximum lift. Any thoughts?
My N55 doesnt have this vacuum line! How?
That would mean you have an electronic wastegate.
I have an error code on my n55 engine that says 2775 air volume, plausibility: air volume too low does anyone knows what this error is?
Hello, Air volume too low can be caused from an unmetered air leak.
1:59
Dark mice love BMWs 😀
What is that plug called
Hi Joel, Which plug are you looking for?
Hello!!! The vacuum hose the big hole that’s one the valve cover
@@joel10032 No problem Joel, That lines goes under the intake to the vacuum pump. The valve cover section that it goes to acts like a vacuum manifold and supplies vacuum to the turbo waste gate actuator via an electric pnuematic pressure converter EPDW
@@AskTheCarExperts I just did installed Raceworks ignition and coils and I don’t know where I put that hose. I’m looking online to see if I can buy a new one
What about p0171?
Hi Jason, P0171 is a mixture too lean fault. This means the vehicle is adding more fuel to offset too much the extra air in the system. This is often from an unmetered air leak and you can use a smoke machine like in my video th-cam.com/video/ZgLmCnn33d4/w-d-xo.html to find the source of the air leak. This should always be the first step and the smoke machine in my video is very affordable amzn.to/3zhYQpG and the intake adapter amzn.to/3eI5fRG
But there are other reasons for a mixture too lean issue as well. I would be happy to help you via youtube comments but you can also reach me directly via my website at www.askthecarexperts.com and go to the contact me tab. Best regards, Roger
@@AskTheCarExperts I sent an email
@@Stockish_Daza what did you find out I got this code before but I replaced my crankshaft and camshaft sensor its been cool!
@@bud6575 had a leak in the intake. Quick easy fix. Figured it out before I took it anywhere.
N55 engine has no twin turbo !!
Lol yes indeed. 🤣 I probably misspoke at some point.
ITS A turbo with two spools
@@SR.2295false advertising
It's a twin power turbo 😂
That's the problem with this Eurotrash....it seems they have high school students engineering these cars
The best engineering occurs during Octoberfest
So that's why you just replace the valve cover every 50,000 miles, cuz it's plastic.
There are metal after market ones
@@DigitalDissident where can metal one be purchased?? i not long purchased a plastic one and installed it and know nothing of a metal one mmmmm more info. ty
Its a whining noise when my car is idling
@chefchamp007 if you open the oil fill cap and the noise is gone then it would be the pcv system in the valve cover as the main cause
I changed it already
@@AskTheCarExpertsit stared after the front seal was changed due to a leak
What is resolution
It be nice if you show us how to replace or fix it
I do have a full video on how to replace the valve cover on the N55 with tips and tricks.