Ford Zetec 1800 Bike Carb Conversion, part 2 - dyno!

Part 2, Rolling Road setup and tuning of the Zetec 1800 on R1 bikes carbs and Nodiz Pro ECU at Danst Engineering. Also covering in detail:
0:40 Trumpet Lengths and Filter Sizing.
3:00 Dyno Results
To get the same kit please see the 40mm Deluxe kit linked below:
danstengineering.co.uk/Ford-Z...

[@andycleal]

Great couple of videos. I have a set of cvks from a zx9r on my 1800 with your manifold. Please could you list the final settings on these carbs, including the needle heights. As I seem to be missing about 20hp 😂😂
Is it possible to see the afr chart as well.

[@amigo8872]

nice wheel

[@emameismail]

How much horsepower increases compared to the original system?

[@tommyboy1854]

Do you fit these If I was to purchase the kit would I be able to bring the car to the workshop and have it fitted or would I have to fit them myself?

[@demon_rider666]

Great video, looking to do the same for my mk1 focus, is there any plug and play options or does the car need a new ECU either way?

[@DanstengineeringCoUk]

A nodiz ecu is the simplest route, see here: danstengineering.co.uk/Nodiz-Pro-Ignition-ECU-Ford-Zetec-Plug-and-Play-Pack-Gen-X?search=nodiz%20zetec

[@Jonathan_Doe_]

Did you also experiment with the runner length between the carb and the intake? Can make as big a difference as the trumpets.

[@DanstengineeringCoUk]

unfortunately not on this occasion.

[@xSc0oByDo0RaCeRx]

Can the nodiz pro be used on rotary?

[@DanstengineeringCoUk]

No sorry.

[@johnysmart8545]

looks impressive but not a good set up as it sits like that

[@DanstengineeringCoUk]

Sorry I'm not sure what you mean?

[@johnysmart8545]

@@DanstengineeringCoUk heat, warm air doesent contain as much oxygen as cold air(hence why turbos have intercoolers, k&n do a cold air induction kit , standard modern day car air boxes drag cold air from a pipe at the base usually).the set up youve got the is sending heat straight into the area where the carbs are, as when the engine is up to temp the cold air blows through the front then the air passes through the rad and is heated slightly its then hitting that metal plate which will heat it up the air even more, then continues back straight into the carbs, what you should do is get rid of that metal plate and have the exhaust manifold ceremic coated(cheap enough these days to have done) then wrap the manifold and down pipe in heat resistant exhaust wrap(keep the heat where it belongs inside the exhaust pipe it will also give it better flow). the cooler you can get the engine bay esp with the bonnet down the better, .then you can turn the mixture screw up on the carbs higher as there will be more oxygen going in (as the exhaust manifold is one of the biggest heat generators in the engine bay)......more fuel, more oxygen=bigger bang =more power!!....old style engineering (carbs/throttlebodies etc) requires old style solutions.!!👍👍.. not knocking your work buddy just an observation👍👍

[@johnysmart8545]

i was born in 1977 come from yorkshire so we learned to get the best out of the part at the cheapest cost (not everyone has the money to go out and blow money on brand new set of carbs etc a lot of people still don't so a bit more cunning was required under the engine bay to match the richer folk who could afford to blow money at a garage(and the cost was cheaper too when you took it to the rolling road to have the carbs set up and the engine tuner could get more power out of it as you'd done all the prep work for him). there as no such thing as a obd 2 back in the day they wernt fitted till 1997-1998 on petrol cars if i remember correctly when they went to electronic fuel injected engines, a bit of logic and working out how to keep heat away from the carbs etc and get the air/fuel in (gas flowed heads big valve cylinder heads piper fast road cam/s get the air and fuel in faster and the emissions out faster not much point in attaching a set of carbs to the engine if the journey for the fuel/air to the cylinder is not at its best....back to basics) but they still like to have a nice modded car. so i remember modding cars like vauxhall novas 1.0 ,1.2, 1.3sr.1.4sr,gte("popular with the young uns" as they used to say because insurance was cheap and the gte body kits,astra gte alloys and other bits(gte front end was a popular mod off the later model novas)) and the c20 xe or c20 let engines could be swapped out of the calibra ,there was always somone on the car parks at night flogging something that you needed cheap or in the mid 90s ebay, then you had the other side of the camp the ford/peugeot guys, mk3 escorts, mk1 and 2 orions and 306 dturbos, the on the mk3 escort 1.3 cvh engine used to have a single choke carb, find the xr2 twin choke carb and manifold or the golden prize (some webber twin 40s) from the scrappy and a oval k&n air filter on top of it with a subaru style bonnet vent(£5.50 off ebay fit it directly over the top of the k&n so it gave cold oxygen rich air in )and some chicken mesh nicked from the local allotment and sprayed black to go in the front of the bonnet vent, and the ford sierra cosworth (the cozzie) rear spoiler would fit on the back of the orion with a bit of adjustment and the cozzie radiator with the twin kenlowe cooling fans could be retrofitted with a bit of work kept the rad water cool when you had your hoof right down on the pedal on the right , on the 306s the intercoolers on the dturbos used to be top mounted with the exhaust manifold right below it,(they used to suffer really bad heatsoak when the engine got warm) so you lived on 50p pot noodles till you could afford a front mounted intercooler and pipework!., good old fashioned british engineering do it better on a budget lol, janspeed,scorpion,peco,cherry bomb or mongoose exhaust preformance backboxes, usually someone on the car park would be selling one in the 80s/90s!!..dont know if anyone else on here did the same things back in the day?..
.

[@izzmus]

@@johnysmart8545 In a running engine, it makes little difference. I have a similar setup and when running down the road, I see air inlet temps within 2-3 degrees of ambient

[@tomnwoo]

@@johnysmart8545 I think that's largely nonsense by the time the car is moving down the road it makes little or no difference to the air intake temperature