Might want to consider some sort of bushing or liner for that hole that the coolant lines are passing through in the engine compartment… eliminate any kind of chaffing/wear that might happen as the plastic tubing rubs against the metal.
Where the second cooling line goes over the top of the other fitting /line, get a price of hose and cut it to slide it over the second hose to protect it. That fitting and stuff will rub thru and cause a leak. Think about those spots and always put an extra piece of hose over it (rtv it in place and two zip ties) do this anywhere hoses touch each other, fittings, or body. It will prevent the owner from having a bad day. As the pump is on, it vibrates even if you don't see it and runs through it fast.
Or, even better, support the hose properly so that it won't rub on anything. Yes, that can mean a lot of supports, especially when using bulk hose bent into place rather than custom-moulded hoses.
Impressive how much work and craftsmanship goes into making an electric car, even converting it❤ love how clean you make everything, the fit and finish are perfect!
Jeremy, do not use your bare hands for with compressed air. Compressed air does nasty things if it gets under your skin. A very safe and cheap way to test for air leaks in a cooling system is to block one end of whatever you are checking and connect a hand pump for a bike to the other end using a schrader valve and adapters, with a pressure gauge. Apply 5 PSI and spray down fittings with soapy water, looking for bubbles that indicate leaks. If you don't see any bubbles, you can let it sit at pressure for a while and see if the pressure has dropped. Stay safe!
High pressure air can do nasty things. I believe 30psi is considered safe to handle under all conditions. Up to 60psi is usually safe but be careful. Anything over 100psi you should definitely follow proper safety procedures.
Please consider getting a normal water pressure tester for leak testing. 2 reasons; water doesn't compress. Air does and that gives an added risk of something literally blowing up in your face. (And you don't want air in your blood stream, Google the risks) 2- you get better control over the testing pressure and any weak spot will give instantly.
For the piping and nippels there are better ABS and PA material, OEM style hoses and quick disconnect options. It's same as pneumatic hose. Similar to your level gauge pipe.
You definitely have the skills for routing the cables and hoses down to a science, Jeremy! Very clean looking so far, the owner will have no problems knowing what is going on. I noticed that there are some pretty raw guide rings holding the cooling and electrical (towards the front of the engine compartment). If you have some smaller sized tubing, slitting one side of it makes a great edge protector that you can trim easily to fit. It also works good for a low pressure seal in some applications. Looking forward to the wiring video{s). This has been a fun build to follow, and I like that you are using rivet nuts for everything, such a clean way of doing things. Keep up the great work.
New to the channel but seen something straight up, when machining metal for sealling surfaces, cutting a single and multiple groove/s in the faces in the faces allows the goop to make essentially O-rings and very hard to push out. Roughening the shine off also allows compounds to bite better. Same reason we used to place a strand of silk thread on the faces of crankcases on the Permatex before bolting together. Next issue, Teflon tape, mate, way too much is being used and to be honest, you shouldn't use it in this application at all. Reasoning: The fittings you are using are tapered for a reason and thats to seal and brass/ally seal pretty good. Next reason is when you tape them, you are taking the tape down past end of thread and when you tighten them in, this becomes cut and falls away eventually and into the stream, as you have small pumps and small coolant paths in some gear, not good in any book. Look for liquid thread seal (Permatex was the king of it) and use only small amounts. OMG, what is the go with the nut on the HRC fuse @ 15:07, no way that will pass.
Pipe threads are normally tapered, and usually require sealant. Dope is better in some ways, but tape is fine if properly used. I agree that there is a lot of tape - likely an excessive amount - used in this video.
Jeremy thank you for a great video on liquid cooling. Do you have a schematic you can share that shows how the whole system works? I'm doing an EV swap on a 1968 Ghia and trying to understand how/where the reservoir should connect to the loop and if the pump goes "in front of" or "behind" the radiator. Thanks
Great video!! do you have a link for the fan relay and or thermostat relay for the battery cooling please. I’m having trouble finding one in Australia Look forward to next videos, keep up the great work. Thank you
For the hose connectors, if it's brass against Al, can this cause corrosion? Whenever I pumped water-based liquid with mixed-metal cirquits (brass-steel, brass-Al) I eventually ran into issues due to corrosion.
Nice seeing that you feel comfortable enough to scan the bay, knock out a CAD model and commit to it. A cardboard mockup with offset bends etc might feel good that you did something but results may vary. What CAD using? Onshape?
You have the overflow tank on the suction side of the pump? Why not have the overflow connected to the top of the radiator? It would seem that if the overflow tank is low/empty it would cavitate the pump. Enjoy the videos and you look a lot like a guy from a podcast I watch. Woodysgamertag from PKA.
Hey Jeremy great video as usual. Just curious I have plans in the future of making my own electric vehicle. Have you thought about making a video with parts, pieces or other things you would recommend for starting your own vehicle?
I liked the intro, but if you want to not do them anymore it's totally fine. so the part that i didnt get from the tubing is are there 3 different circuits? 1 to the batts, 1 to the motos, and 1 to the motor controller or are they all daisy chained ?
This car has a low power charger. Cooling is not necessary. Also climate is southern California, so reconditioning for heating is also not necessary for this customer
@ElectricSuperCar how many KW charging, is this a set amount, or does it fluctuate? What do you expect it's 30 to 80 percent charge time to be in 80f Cali weather. Fun car to drive as long as your not 2 hours or more charging.
@@Patriot3 the customer bought a kit with a 3.3kW charger. The customer has a 22kWh pack. I am guessing 20% to 80% would be 4 hours. Customer kit does not have fast charging.
The piping would be neater if the manifold with the 3 pipes was situated nearer the motor controller / battery box, then you only have 1 larger diameter pipe going from front to back of the engine bay.
i have a w108 1966 250se but i am so fed up with the mechanical issues. would love to just convert it to electric. but i dont know how to connect the motor to the automatic transmission.. could go the route of using a backmotor like newer cars without the transmission and so on, but is that more costly?
I believe automatic transmissions do not like electric motors at all, so much so that many people converting an automatic put in a manual gearbox if they want to keep the gears.
You should have waited 24 hrs before testing pressure.if that was RTV, then even full air pressure would not blow it out. That will. E mated forife. Lol
Yes, batteries produce heat, and so do motors... but the electronics do as well, both inverters and chargers. The first cooling plate installation shown in this video is for the motor controller. Lots of stuff to cool, or sometimes warm.
@@KingMechanics sort of. He did a nice job of converting a kit car to battery-electric, with significant customizations... but he didn't design or build the kit components. That is not literally building his own car.
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Hi, I am Davison from CarpodGo. Nice video.
I like the format splitting the videos into segments / topics that get completed. You get a very nice overview that way.
Looking great! I love the organization of the hoses. It's going to look really good when you open up the hood.
Thanks 👍
Might want to consider some sort of bushing or liner for that hole that the coolant lines are passing through in the engine compartment… eliminate any kind of chaffing/wear that might happen as the plastic tubing rubs against the metal.
Good call
You can often find rubber grommets at Ace that will fit nice - though it's not always easy to find the right size, for larger hoses
I'd highly recommend screw clamps for your hoses as spring clamps tend to not perform well over time, especially in a pressured circuit.
Where the second cooling line goes over the top of the other fitting /line, get a price of hose and cut it to slide it over the second hose to protect it. That fitting and stuff will rub thru and cause a leak. Think about those spots and always put an extra piece of hose over it (rtv it in place and two zip ties) do this anywhere hoses touch each other, fittings, or body. It will prevent the owner from having a bad day. As the pump is on, it vibrates even if you don't see it and runs through it fast.
Thanks for the suggestion
Or, even better, support the hose properly so that it won't rub on anything. Yes, that can mean a lot of supports, especially when using bulk hose bent into place rather than custom-moulded hoses.
I really enjoy your work......
I appreciate that!
Impressive how much work and craftsmanship goes into making an electric car, even converting it❤ love how clean you make everything, the fit and finish are perfect!
Thank you very much!
Nicely done, very professional.
Thank you very much!
Great episode 👍🏾
Thanks Friend!
That is some nice tubing work. So neatly organized. Big fan of that.
Thanks 👍
What do you call the tubing?
@@NFPC06 just clear braided tubing.
www.amazon.com/dp/B09SYX8277/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_6TYXZFHVC23JRCDS7791?linkCode=ml2&tag=electricsup0d-20
Great progress!
Thanks!
Jeremy, do not use your bare hands for with compressed air. Compressed air does nasty things if it gets under your skin. A very safe and cheap way to test for air leaks in a cooling system is to block one end of whatever you are checking and connect a hand pump for a bike to the other end using a schrader valve and adapters, with a pressure gauge. Apply 5 PSI and spray down fittings with soapy water, looking for bubbles that indicate leaks. If you don't see any bubbles, you can let it sit at pressure for a while and see if the pressure has dropped. Stay safe!
👍
High pressure air can do nasty things. I believe 30psi is considered safe to handle under all conditions. Up to 60psi is usually safe but be careful. Anything over 100psi you should definitely follow proper safety procedures.
Please consider getting a normal water pressure tester for leak testing.
2 reasons; water doesn't compress. Air does and that gives an added risk of something literally blowing up in your face. (And you don't want air in your blood stream, Google the risks)
2- you get better control over the testing pressure and any weak spot will give instantly.
For the piping and nippels there are better ABS and PA material, OEM style hoses and quick disconnect options. It's same as pneumatic hose. Similar to your level gauge pipe.
Thanks for the tips!
I really enjoy watching your videos and am hoping to convert my car to electric soon too
Nice!
Awesome and outstanding as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
Thanks 👍
awesome🔥
Thanks 🔥
3:45 The Internet also says oven cleaner dissolves aluminum 😅
Hey Jeremy, this is coming along nicely, cheers 👍💪✌
Thanks 👍
You definitely have the skills for routing the cables and hoses down to a science, Jeremy! Very clean looking so far, the owner will have no problems knowing what is going on. I noticed that there are some pretty raw guide rings holding the cooling and electrical (towards the front of the engine compartment). If you have some smaller sized tubing, slitting one side of it makes a great edge protector that you can trim easily to fit. It also works good for a low pressure seal in some applications. Looking forward to the wiring video{s). This has been a fun build to follow, and I like that you are using rivet nuts for everything, such a clean way of doing things. Keep up the great work.
Thanks 👍
Love these videos, You put so much attention to the details 👌
Glad you like them!
10/10 job well done
Thanks!
Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Car owner will be amazed🤩🤩🤩
Best wishes 🎉🎉🎉
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Thanks a ton
Such a neat job! great video. Well done!
Thank you! Cheers!
New to the channel but seen something straight up, when machining metal for sealling surfaces, cutting a single and multiple groove/s in the faces in the faces allows the goop to make essentially O-rings and very hard to push out. Roughening the shine off also allows compounds to bite better. Same reason we used to place a strand of silk thread on the faces of crankcases on the Permatex before bolting together.
Next issue, Teflon tape, mate, way too much is being used and to be honest, you shouldn't use it in this application at all. Reasoning: The fittings you are using are tapered for a reason and thats to seal and brass/ally seal pretty good. Next reason is when you tape them, you are taking the tape down past end of thread and when you tighten them in, this becomes cut and falls away eventually and into the stream, as you have small pumps and small coolant paths in some gear, not good in any book. Look for liquid thread seal (Permatex was the king of it) and use only small amounts.
OMG, what is the go with the nut on the HRC fuse @ 15:07, no way that will pass.
Pipe threads are normally tapered, and usually require sealant. Dope is better in some ways, but tape is fine if properly used. I agree that there is a lot of tape - likely an excessive amount - used in this video.
Love you videos, thank you so much ❤
Glad you like them!
Love the content. Hope you can make a living out of it and keep the channel running.
Thanks Leon!
Algo😊
✌️
Jeremy thank you for a great video on liquid cooling. Do you have a schematic you can share that shows how the whole system works? I'm doing an EV swap on a 1968 Ghia and trying to understand how/where the reservoir should connect to the loop and if the pump goes "in front of" or "behind" the radiator. Thanks
Send me an email Electricsupercar@gmail.com
You may want to consider changing supply for air radiator to the bottom. That way you will not have problem with air stuck in there.
Any idea where to source that pump? thanks for the detailed Video
No markings on the pump
Great video!! do you have a link for the fan relay and or thermostat relay for the battery cooling please. I’m having trouble finding one in Australia
Look forward to next videos, keep up the great work.
Thank you
It was from Summit Racing
I believe this was it
www.summitracing.com/parts/mar-mfa120
The family you saw on 5/9/24. I'm the son
Edit: I subscribed
So much cooler to meet in person! Welcome aboard!
@@ElectricSuperCar thank you!
For the hose connectors, if it's brass against Al, can this cause corrosion? Whenever I pumped water-based liquid with mixed-metal cirquits (brass-steel, brass-Al) I eventually ran into issues due to corrosion.
Will you be able to remove the header tank cap when the bonnet is on? It looks a bit tight 😉
Yes
Good intro 🔥
Thanks!
Soft vice jaws are really cheap. I got mine for under $10 at Princess Auto; the equivalent in the USA would be something like Harbor Freight.
Nice!
Wellllllllll done🎉
Thanks!
Could you paste an amazon link for that rivet nut tool you used when installing overflow tank?
Just for you!
amzn.to/3JLiz7h
Nice seeing that you feel comfortable enough to scan the bay, knock out a CAD model and commit to it. A cardboard mockup with offset bends etc might feel good that you did something but results may vary.
What CAD using? Onshape?
SolidWorks
You have the overflow tank on the suction side of the pump? Why not have the overflow connected to the top of the radiator? It would seem that if the overflow tank is low/empty it would cavitate the pump.
Enjoy the videos and you look a lot like a guy from a podcast I watch. Woodysgamertag from PKA.
It is my alter-ego
Hey Jeremy great video as usual. Just curious I have plans in the future of making my own electric vehicle. Have you thought about making a video with parts, pieces or other things you would recommend for starting your own vehicle?
Not really. There are as many options as opinions.
I liked the intro, but if you want to not do them anymore it's totally fine.
so the part that i didnt get from the tubing is are there 3 different circuits? 1 to the batts, 1 to the motos, and 1 to the motor controller or are they all daisy chained ?
All coming to and from manifolds. I have flow control on the batteries
I heard you say cooling may not be necessary for charging. Can you explain why. Will you need heating for preconditioning? If not, why?
This car has a low power charger. Cooling is not necessary. Also climate is southern California, so reconditioning for heating is also not necessary for this customer
@ElectricSuperCar
how many KW charging, is this a set amount, or does it fluctuate?
What do you expect it's 30 to 80 percent charge time to be in 80f Cali weather.
Fun car to drive as long as your not 2 hours or more charging.
@@Patriot3 the customer bought a kit with a 3.3kW charger. The customer has a 22kWh pack. I am guessing 20% to 80% would be 4 hours. Customer kit does not have fast charging.
I saw the amphenol connector and was like "Aww yeah, he used the same connector as me! I think I chose well!" 😂
Nice!
The piping would be neater if the manifold with the 3 pipes was situated nearer the motor controller / battery box, then you only have 1 larger diameter pipe going from front to back of the engine bay.
probably true
You should geta copy machine so you cam make templates for hole marking, much easier than holding with one hand and trying to mark with the other.
Good call
Nice cable cable organizer holding the orange split loom on the fender. Is that 3D printed or off the shelf?
3D printed
Have any of your builds had cooling systems that can heat batteries for cold weather use?
Porsche will have that as part of the system
What city are you in and is there Harbor Freight near you and what do you prefer 3/8" or 1/2"
I am in Salt Lake City. Yes there are a few Harbor Freights around. Most of my stuff is 3/8"
i have a w108 1966 250se but i am so fed up with the mechanical issues.
would love to just convert it to electric.
but i dont know how to connect the motor to the automatic transmission.. could go the route of using a backmotor like newer cars without the transmission and so on, but is that more costly?
I believe automatic transmissions do not like electric motors at all, so much so that many people converting an automatic put in a manual gearbox if they want to keep the gears.
Email me electricsupercar@gmail.com
Could install an e-axle in the rear or perhaps use a GS450h transmission in place of the original auto
⚡ 🚓 ⚡ 🏎 ⚡
✌️
14:08 can you remove the cap without having to remove the unit?
Yes
YEs I just asked about 3d scanner in the last couple of videos one of them :) .. Which scanner is it ??
Miraco
shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1824119&u=3636873&m=113735&urllink=&afftrack=
From where you get the pump?
Came with the kit
@@ElectricSuperCar from where you get the kit? I’m looking for a similar pump
this is so relaxing video
Glad you think so!
Is there a website for the new business? I’m interested in having something converted for when in return from overseas.
Working on it. For now you can email me electricsupercar@gmail.com
Daniel Düsentrieb you are. ❤😊
You should have waited 24 hrs before testing pressure.if that was RTV, then even full air pressure would not blow it out. That will. E mated forife. Lol
Yes, batteries produce heat, and so do motors... but the electronics do as well, both inverters and chargers. The first cooling plate installation shown in this video is for the motor controller. Lots of stuff to cool, or sometimes warm.
So many negativ reviews for Gentlebands 😳 maybe not the best choice of sponsor!
I think it's time you treated yourself to an electric rivet nut gun.
It is on the wish list
Your video title is wrong. It's not diy, You are real business of making conversions.
Apparently educated and self taught. He literally built his own car
@@KingMechanics sort of. He did a nice job of converting a kit car to battery-electric, with significant customizations... but he didn't design or build the kit components. That is not literally building his own car.