I'm a bit concerned with your welded steering. Of all the things to fail in a car, steering would be my last preference. Those welds may be strong enough for daily use and may never fail, but hit some pot holes, the odd curb or serious steering bump on a track day and you may be set up for random failure one day on the freeway. Here in Aus, we have many excessive regulations, but one I agree with is that any steering shaft welding needs X-ray and engineering approval.
Welding supervisor studying to be an inspector. That welding is certainly not adequate at all for it. I was fine with him welding some supports and brackets here and there, but without a proper joint preparation and welding experience he's risking human lives.Those welds are far from ok. I hope he reads the comments, he shouldn't be doing this.
@@serdiefgotreb if you compare the cost of a guaranteed to not fail shaft to an almost certain guarantee to die if it fails, then I don't think this shaft is up for the task.
Personally I don’t love banking on good penetration with a MIG on a butt weld when I’m going to grind the material smooth after (I’ve got a track record of overestimating how much base metal I’ve truly melted with that process) and would want to do a multi pass weld on a double V groove instead. It’s certainly possible you got enough penetration but if it were me I’d do that joint again with more joint prep. I LOVE the 3D printed tacking jig idea in this application because you can’t practically use V blocks and gauge blocks to get them concentric here - I’m definitely going to steal that idea when I shorten the brake master cylinder rod on my Sambar brake upgrade!
It's hard to see how close the car was while you were grinding but a top tip (born from painful experience) is NEVER let grinding sparks hit glass. The sparks are tiny bits of molten metal and when they hit glass they stick to it leaving it covered in little metal lumps. There is no way back except new glass.
I notice others have commented as well but welding steering and suspension components is a real concern. I used to own and operate a streering and suspension workshop (HV, MV, LV and passanger vehicles) and I would not touch a vehicle with this type of modifications unless I was provided an engineers report. In Australia while not illegal per say these mods would need to be welded by a qualified welder and tested and approved by a licenced test engineer. I like most of what you do but IMHO this is potentially just downright dangerous.
Power steering is one of those things that you don't notice much at speed, but that you really want in a tight parking situation. When I saw the MGA, I figured that you are working on these cars simultaneously. It is convenient that you are working on multiple cars, because you can switch to another one when you are waiting on parts (or having unforeseen issues) and still keep the content coming.
My experience with this mod was not successful. The main issue is hydraulic racks are not designed to receive high torque from the input shaft and this will eat up the rack's teeth really fast. The solution was to get proper electric steering rack. 2nd issue is the rubbery feeling from all the loose mountings and shafts. So my obenin is it's better to get a fully electric steering rack (ones with the motor located on the rack it self) like the MDPS-R found in 2015+ Genesis.
I see a lot of valid comments about welding the rack but my question is why not keep the hydraulic rack and install a pump to drive it. I used a Volvo pump in my build and it works great. Many others have used GM pumps so the solution was cheap and simple. Early on I decided not to install electric power steering as I felt the forcing the rack from the steering column instead of being assisted by hydraulic fluid would shorten it's life.
Just a recommendation, I would tapper each end of both shafts with a pretty aggressive angle before welding. This would ensure proper weld penetration, being that it’s a critical component
It should be a 60° included angle (30° on each side of the joint). The welds you showed did not achieve the minimum penetration required, please consult with a specialist. It's one thing to weld boxes, brackets and supports. Another completely different thing to try to weld shafts.
@@ElectricSuperCar better advice is to not weld safety-critical components yourself. You’re opening yourself up to significant liability, and signing a waiver won’t change that.
Now I know ANOTHER reason why I like your MGA conversion so much: it didn't need power steering. My ancient CRX didn't have it. My even MORE ancient Lancia didn't need it. I was born too late to make one of your wonderful conversions. It would have been SUCH a joy to build one! All the vintage without all the racket and smoke. Please keep all this up; it's so inspiring! Aloha!
40-year welder fabricator and doing fun stuff on the side. I would not ever do this on a car traveling down the freeway, maybe a go-kart. You're risking your life, other people on the road and the customers. Other than that like your other stuff!
Those welds…I hope this is for you and not a client. Even if you had them sign a waiver of liability, you can’t waive negligence and any good injury lawyer could get experts lined up to testify that not having a certified welder or validating safety-critical welds with X-ray is negligent in industry practice. I know it’s expensive to have them professionally made, but I promise it’s not as expensive as a wrongful death or injury lawsuit.
I did this on my car and pice of advice you will need a camper caster plates to help with the self alignment of the wheels as now the car steering won’t self align as there is a difference between steering torque from the hydraulic pump and the esp , i love your channel and admire your work if u need help feel free to reach out
I think you made the right decision going for the keyed shaft, I’ve seen many times what happens at the drag strip when either the steering fails, or the master cylinder brake pedal pushrod falls off, and both end up in at least one car being totaled and many times it’s two cars.
Hey Jeremy, new subscriber, I live pretty close to you in the SLC metro area. I'm excited to see your website go up. Best of luck in your newish venture!
There's a very good reason why all the shafts in the factory column and the electric assist are solid and not welded and an ameteur performing the welds with a hobby welding machine should never be allowed on a public roadway. Just the heat the motor, bearings, and shafts were exposed to would make that motor unfit for use in my opinion.
You may also want to open up the hydraulic power steering control valve and weld the shaft inside. There is a sloppy springy linkage inside that is required for a hydraulic unit to work. That is the play in the steering and knocking you feel when turning the wheel left and right on the ground with the engine off or when making rapid inputs left and right.
One thing that should be pointed out is that is a column mounted electric power steering unit. They are typically located in the passenger compartment under the dash and not in the engine compartment. They typically are not sealed like modules in the engine bay, so the way you have it mounted you could have an issue down the line if water gets on the circuit board from road splash or a car wash. Cars like the dodge charger have a rack mounted eps in the engine bay that are sealed from water intrusion.
Thank you for your effort in the video, it had me laughing quite a bit. This is clearly a how not to do this. The power steering motor and ecu are not waterproof in any way so should not be in the enginebay for starters. The other comments already touch on the creative installation.
Awesome video, really enjoyed the detailed breakdown! I’m currently looking to buy a rear Tesla SDU (2019 or older) for a project. I’m hoping to avoid any potential pitfalls and would love your advice on what to look out for to ensure I don’t end up with a bad motor. Any tips on what to check or any red flags to watch for would be super helpful. Thanks in advance!
It would be pretty interesting to test each of those electric power steering options, to see which is best for steering feel, level of assist, cost, ease of installation, etc. None of those donor cars are particularly sporty, so I wonder how they would compare to (for instance) a Porsche Taycan electric steering module that's integrated with the rack and pinion assembly.
Even if he had a client sign a liability waiver, you can’t waive negligence. If there were an injury or death from the welds failing I think it would be pretty easy to find a few experts to testify this is the opposite of industry practice, and therefore negligent.
I would suggest using the Opel Zafira hydraulic Steering Pump. It has lots of power, data sheets are available online and are used in many conversions and tuning applications. And you have the redundancy if something breaks with your modification, you can still manual steer without the assistance
very cool build ..looking at this I totally thought that rag link was gonna be remade at Sendcutsend, could have done without the coupling shaft and saved you an inch. :) and we all want that extra inch to play with .. I'm about to get rid of a few ICE project to try to fund the start of purchasing parts .anyone need a 93 4 door 1 ton dually :) ??.gonna start hording parts likely motor first.. already have the shell .. I would really like to run an electric suburban in the Texas mile and hit the 200 mph club.. I got the makings of a great comeback story and I got the beaten down and sick and dying part down pat I just need the super awesome ending LOL ..
I commend you for your efforts, but there are other ways to do this and they are much safer. I'm not sure if you're aware, but the motor and module aren't water tight. They were designed to be mounted inside the car. There is plenty of information online. This is a very common mod and on many different cars, from old to modern.
As much as I love your channel watching you weld on a critical system like this. I would be hesitant to drive one of you vehicles. You really need to have a certified welder do those kinds of welds. A motor mount is one thing if it breaks it probably won't kill you. Power steering is nother saftey concern. At least have your weld x-rayed for cracks. Safty first
Here's a question for you in doing these conversions (great video by the way). Is it necessary or even advantageous to retaining the OE steering gearbox from the original system or can you just go with a direct drive on the steering shaft? Thanks again for the great video!
Loved everything except for the music on this one. Even with my phone at 10% volume, the music is too loud. Not a fan of the vocals either, I’d go with instrumental only. Just nitpicking because everything else is awesome! 👏🏻
I’m not gonna touch the welded steering shaft, as that’s been pointed out, but one recommendation I have specifically from owning a Nissan specialty shop that specialized in 90’s S,R,Z chassis specifically. For best result, you need to de-power the rack. There are plenty of instructions on TH-cam. Essentially right now you are asking the that electric assist to drink a cold milkshake through a straw. If this unit is speed variable it might mask it, but if this is a single rate, it’s going to struggle at quick movements and may even pop its fuse. What Kia vehicle did you source this from?
I was trying to eyeball the U-joints, directions etc but... if anyone else is doing this, make sure you have even numbers of joints. If you just put in 1 for example, you'll find your steering going fast/slow/fast/slow due to non-uniform angular velocity.
I was just thinking how much easier this would be once cars go drive by wire like the Cybertruck. Also, a friendly request: in the segments where you add music, can you please lower the volume a bit in the future? It is louder than the spoken parts and sounds a bit like a commercial coming on. Pretty please.
Great episode, as always, Jeremy. I was curious why you did not do as you have with other shafts, and send them to be manufactured into a single unit? That would insure the shafts were adequately strong enough as opposed to relying on welds and couplings. Both units appeared to be able to be broken down, and that outer tube, as you did, can be removed if needed. Just an observation and curiosity question. Love your using 3D printing to make the alignment jigs, though the straightness may have been affected in the one by the angle you had it on and the print softening while you were doing the spot welds. Looking forward to the next installment of any of the builds. Glad to see you have more progress going on while still maintaining topical videos. Great planning.
Hey man, love the channel and content. I don't think that weld is safe the shaft. It is visibly cold and the shaft shows no discoloration leading me to believe that there is zero penetration. Im only commenting because I have had to repair a lot of failed welds over the years.
Is the power assist auto adjusted? i.e. more assist on low speed - traffic, parking etc and less assist on high speed - highways, motorsports (drag racing etc)
@ElectricSuperCar don't hey me wrong I really like your drive, energy and resourcefulness 😊 but double checking and if needed redoing makes sense. Continue this nice channel!
Love most of your work but that welding of the steering shafts is not good. You should have a pro weld that kind of stuff for you. Plus I do. It think that key way is strong enough for a steering system. You may want to figure out a way to use splined shafts
Should have just gone with a Mini R50 electric power steering pump and kept the hydraulic rack working. Keep modifications to the column etc to a minimum.
i think i would have preferred electric hydraulic pump to standard powersteer rack. that way even without power, the steering wheel would still be manageable. what made you avoid that route?
Ok. I now have no excuse. I've been sitting on the iBooster and the KIA power steering motor for over two years. I need to go and finally ditch hydroboost and install it in my Astro.
I love your videos and I don’t want to be a downer but what happens when the client needs to replace this pump? He’ll have to re-weld a new one, right? I know power steering pumps usually last a long time but they do go out eventually.
Love your videos and all your work, but that minor weld looks sketchy. You can hire somebody local to do mobile welding for like 200 bucks most of those guys have a lot of years under their belt and make sure that it’s done 100% correct plus it takes some of the liability away from you.
I wonder what it will take to get someone to be willing to sell EPS to consumers. ZF said they were going to start distributing an aftermarket EPS last year, and still haven’t. There are some Chinese manufacturers that make a quality product, but they have minimum orders, and aren’t interested in selling for personal projects.
It would be nice if an electrically powered hydraulic pump could supply fluid to the car’s original rack on demand. Also wouldn’t need to mod the column. Is a pump with integrated accumulator available?
@@ElectricSuperCar The Volvo one I'm using is very quiet. You can hear it if standing beside it but not if inside the car with the doors and windows closed.
So you don't weld driveshafts yourself (which are not as such safety critical) - but you do weld steering axle which very much is safety critical... Yeah naaaa on the welding.
Sketchy at best with the shaft welding. You need to bevel both shafts to get enough penetration. Better yet you should have taken this to a professional shop. Your globs of weld shows not enough heat, too fast of wire speed, too slow of movement and general lack of welding experience for something this critical. This is a major safety issue for you and every other person on the road at the same time whenever you are on the road.
I'm surprised you're going to trust something as crucial as steering to flaky German electronics especially from a late model Volkswagen (and we all know about that rock solid Volkswagen electronics reliability). Good luck with that.
@@houseofno which other country produces steering pumps beside german companys? (ZF, Schaeffler, Bosch, trw(ZF)) I am not sure if VW does even build their own steering pumps
I’m not gonna touch the welded steering shaft, as that’s been pointed out, but one recommendation I have specifically from owning a Nissan specialty shop that specialized in 90’s S,R,Z chassis specifically. For best result, you need to de-power the rack. There are plenty of instructions on TH-cam. Essentially right now you are asking the that electric assist to drink a cold milkshake through a straw. If this unit is speed variable it might mask it, but if this is a single rate, it’s going to struggle at quick movements and may even pop its fuse. What Kia vehicle did you source this from?
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
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I'm a bit concerned with your welded steering. Of all the things to fail in a car, steering would be my last preference.
Those welds may be strong enough for daily use and may never fail, but hit some pot holes, the odd curb or serious steering bump on a track day and you may be set up for random failure one day on the freeway.
Here in Aus, we have many excessive regulations, but one I agree with is that any steering shaft welding needs X-ray and engineering approval.
He’s really taking a gamble here to save the expense of having a professional shop do the welds.
Welding supervisor studying to be an inspector. That welding is certainly not adequate at all for it. I was fine with him welding some supports and brackets here and there, but without a proper joint preparation and welding experience he's risking human lives.Those welds are far from ok. I hope he reads the comments, he shouldn't be doing this.
Was going to say something similar - I'd expected both sides to at least have a bevel before welding...
@@serdiefgotreb if you compare the cost of a guaranteed to not fail shaft to an almost certain guarantee to die if it fails, then I don't think this shaft is up for the task.
Personally I don’t love banking on good penetration with a MIG on a butt weld when I’m going to grind the material smooth after (I’ve got a track record of overestimating how much base metal I’ve truly melted with that process) and would want to do a multi pass weld on a double V groove instead. It’s certainly possible you got enough penetration but if it were me I’d do that joint again with more joint prep.
I LOVE the 3D printed tacking jig idea in this application because you can’t practically use V blocks and gauge blocks to get them concentric here - I’m definitely going to steal that idea when I shorten the brake master cylinder rod on my Sambar brake upgrade!
I am not sure if surface-level welds are a substitute for a continuous shaft for transmitting a lot of torque.
Yeah, they are a fused link I would never want.
It's hard to see how close the car was while you were grinding but a top tip (born from painful experience) is NEVER let grinding sparks hit glass. The sparks are tiny bits of molten metal and when they hit glass they stick to it leaving it covered in little metal lumps. There is no way back except new glass.
thanks for the tip!
It's remarkable that you never settle for "good enough"
But not surprising.
The 3D printed alignment system was a very clever idea.
Thanks!
I notice others have commented as well but welding steering and suspension components is a real concern. I used to own and operate a streering and suspension workshop (HV, MV, LV and passanger vehicles) and I would not touch a vehicle with this type of modifications unless I was provided an engineers report. In Australia while not illegal per say these mods would need to be welded by a qualified welder and tested and approved by a licenced test engineer.
I like most of what you do but IMHO this is potentially just downright dangerous.
Power steering is one of those things that you don't notice much at speed, but that you really want in a tight parking situation. When I saw the MGA, I figured that you are working on these cars simultaneously. It is convenient that you are working on multiple cars, because you can switch to another one when you are waiting on parts (or having unforeseen issues) and still keep the content coming.
Thanks Dean!
My experience with this mod was not successful. The main issue is hydraulic racks are not designed to receive high torque from the input shaft and this will eat up the rack's teeth really fast.
The solution was to get proper electric steering rack.
2nd issue is the rubbery feeling from all the loose mountings and shafts.
So my obenin is it's better to get a fully electric steering rack (ones with the motor located on the rack it self) like the MDPS-R found in 2015+ Genesis.
I see a lot of valid comments about welding the rack but my question is why not keep the hydraulic rack and install a pump to drive it. I used a Volvo pump in my build and it works great. Many others have used GM pumps so the solution was cheap and simple.
Early on I decided not to install electric power steering as I felt the forcing the rack from the steering column instead of being assisted by hydraulic fluid would shorten it's life.
Just a recommendation, I would tapper each end of both shafts with a pretty aggressive angle before welding. This would ensure proper weld penetration, being that it’s a critical component
@mikeseeley1316 I did this to some degree although I did not show it. Great advice!
It should be a 60° included angle (30° on each side of the joint). The welds you showed did not achieve the minimum penetration required, please consult with a specialist. It's one thing to weld boxes, brackets and supports. Another completely different thing to try to weld shafts.
@@ElectricSuperCar better advice is to not weld safety-critical components yourself. You’re opening yourself up to significant liability, and signing a waiver won’t change that.
Now I know ANOTHER reason why I like your MGA conversion so much: it didn't need power steering. My ancient CRX didn't have it. My even MORE ancient Lancia didn't need it.
I was born too late to make one of your wonderful conversions. It would have been SUCH a joy to build one! All the vintage without all the racket and smoke.
Please keep all this up; it's so inspiring! Aloha!
✌️
40-year welder fabricator and doing fun stuff on the side. I would not ever do this on a car traveling down the freeway, maybe a go-kart. You're risking your life, other people on the road and the customers. Other than that like your other stuff!
I’m always get so excited when I get a TH-cam notification that you posted! Great video! I love seeing all the progress.
Yay! Thank you!
What a rad build, I'm here for this!
Welcome aboard!
Those welds…I hope this is for you and not a client. Even if you had them sign a waiver of liability, you can’t waive negligence and any good injury lawyer could get experts lined up to testify that not having a certified welder or validating safety-critical welds with X-ray is negligent in industry practice. I know it’s expensive to have them professionally made, but I promise it’s not as expensive as a wrongful death or injury lawsuit.
Yeeeesssss the 300!
I did this on my car and pice of advice you will need a camper caster plates to help with the self alignment of the wheels as now the car steering won’t self align as there is a difference between steering torque from the hydraulic pump and the esp , i love your channel and admire your work if u need help feel free to reach out
Thanks Friend!
I'm excited to see the 300 ZX going down the road. I loved these cars when they were new.
I think you made the right decision going for the keyed shaft, I’ve seen many times what happens at the drag strip when either the steering fails, or the master cylinder brake pedal pushrod falls off, and both end up in at least one car being totaled and many times it’s two cars.
Great video. Thanks man!
Very nice! Good progress.
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey Jeremy, new subscriber, I live pretty close to you in the SLC metro area. I'm excited to see your website go up. Best of luck in your newish venture!
There's a very good reason why all the shafts in the factory column and the electric assist are solid and not welded and an ameteur performing the welds with a hobby welding machine should never be allowed on a public roadway. Just the heat the motor, bearings, and shafts were exposed to would make that motor unfit for use in my opinion.
You may also want to open up the hydraulic power steering control valve and weld the shaft inside. There is a sloppy springy linkage inside that is required for a hydraulic unit to work. That is the play in the steering and knocking you feel when turning the wheel left and right on the ground with the engine off or when making rapid inputs left and right.
@@makkgeo thanks for the suggestion!
Love "The Wedding Singer".
One thing that should be pointed out is that is a column mounted electric power steering unit. They are typically located in the passenger compartment under the dash and not in the engine compartment. They typically are not sealed like modules in the engine bay, so the way you have it mounted you could have an issue down the line if water gets on the circuit board from road splash or a car wash. Cars like the dodge charger have a rack mounted eps in the engine bay that are sealed from water intrusion.
Go Utes!
Amazing video❤❤
Thank you!!
Thank you for your effort in the video, it had me laughing quite a bit. This is clearly a how not to do this. The power steering motor and ecu are not waterproof in any way so should not be in the enginebay for starters. The other comments already touch on the creative installation.
Thanks!
Wow! Thanks for the support!
Excellent🎉
Thanks 🤗
Awesome video, really enjoyed the detailed breakdown!
I’m currently looking to buy a rear Tesla SDU (2019 or older) for a project.
I’m hoping to avoid any potential pitfalls and would love your advice on what to look out for to ensure I don’t end up with a bad motor. Any tips on what to check or any red flags to watch for would be super helpful. Thanks in advance!
It would be pretty interesting to test each of those electric power steering options, to see which is best for steering feel, level of assist, cost, ease of installation, etc. None of those donor cars are particularly sporty, so I wonder how they would compare to (for instance) a Porsche Taycan electric steering module that's integrated with the rack and pinion assembly.
not doing a conversion but this is how I would fix my beater so that I won't have to deal with that loud oily mess ever again
👍
How do you limit your liability on a customers car as it would probably be hard to find a certified welder to weld steering shafts together.
Even if he had a client sign a liability waiver, you can’t waive negligence. If there were an injury or death from the welds failing I think it would be pretty easy to find a few experts to testify this is the opposite of industry practice, and therefore negligent.
I would suggest using the Opel Zafira hydraulic Steering Pump. It has lots of power, data sheets are available online and are used in many conversions and tuning applications. And you have the redundancy if something breaks with your modification, you can still manual steer without the assistance
Not sure they got the Zafira in the states
@@jongmassey Plenty of Volvo's and Fords have the same setup.
very cool build ..looking at this I totally thought that rag link was gonna be remade at Sendcutsend, could have done without the coupling shaft and saved you an inch. :) and we all want that extra inch to play with .. I'm about to get rid of a few ICE project to try to fund the start of purchasing parts .anyone need a 93 4 door 1 ton dually :) ??.gonna start hording parts likely motor first.. already have the shell .. I would really like to run an electric suburban in the Texas mile and hit the 200 mph club.. I got the makings of a great comeback story and I got the beaten down and sick and dying part down pat I just need the super awesome ending LOL ..
I commend you for your efforts, but there are other ways to do this and they are much safer. I'm not sure if you're aware, but the motor and module aren't water tight. They were designed to be mounted inside the car. There is plenty of information online. This is a very common mod and on many different cars, from old to modern.
👍
As much as I love your channel watching you weld on a critical system like this. I would be hesitant to drive one of you vehicles. You really need to have a certified welder do those kinds of welds. A motor mount is one thing if it breaks it probably won't kill you. Power steering is nother saftey concern.
At least have your weld x-rayed for cracks. Safty first
Here's a question for you in doing these conversions (great video by the way). Is it necessary or even advantageous to retaining the OE steering gearbox from the original system or can you just go with a direct drive on the steering shaft? Thanks again for the great video!
You could convert your steering rack to manual and then not have to worry about any hydraulic fluid at all
Good call!
Loved everything except for the music on this one. Even with my phone at 10% volume, the music is too loud. Not a fan of the vocals either, I’d go with instrumental only. Just nitpicking because everything else is awesome! 👏🏻
I’m not gonna touch the welded steering shaft, as that’s been pointed out, but one recommendation I have specifically from owning a Nissan specialty shop that specialized in 90’s S,R,Z chassis specifically.
For best result, you need to de-power the rack.
There are plenty of instructions on TH-cam. Essentially right now you are asking the that electric assist to drink a cold milkshake through a straw.
If this unit is speed variable it might mask it, but if this is a single rate, it’s going to struggle at quick movements and may even pop its fuse.
What Kia vehicle did you source this from?
Can't wait until Optimus bots clean up superchargers for us
I was trying to eyeball the U-joints, directions etc but... if anyone else is doing this, make sure you have even numbers of joints. If you just put in 1 for example, you'll find your steering going fast/slow/fast/slow due to non-uniform angular velocity.
I was just thinking how much easier this would be once cars go drive by wire like the Cybertruck. Also, a friendly request: in the segments where you add music, can you please lower the volume a bit in the future? It is louder than the spoken parts and sounds a bit like a commercial coming on. Pretty please.
Noted
I''ve got a similar EPS unit here going into my small tractor! I'm old, and it's too heavy to steer when I have a blade on. :)
Very cool!
Great episode, as always, Jeremy. I was curious why you did not do as you have with other shafts, and send them to be manufactured into a single unit? That would insure the shafts were adequately strong enough as opposed to relying on welds and couplings. Both units appeared to be able to be broken down, and that outer tube, as you did, can be removed if needed. Just an observation and curiosity question. Love your using 3D printing to make the alignment jigs, though the straightness may have been affected in the one by the angle you had it on and the print softening while you were doing the spot welds. Looking forward to the next installment of any of the builds. Glad to see you have more progress going on while still maintaining topical videos. Great planning.
@@bradbrowatzke7236 👍
Hey man, love the channel and content. I don't think that weld is safe the shaft. It is visibly cold and the shaft shows no discoloration leading me to believe that there is zero penetration. Im only commenting because I have had to repair a lot of failed welds over the years.
Yea, I will be making changes to the steering setup. Thanks for the comment.
14:25 this was my experience in my first car with no power steering
Is the power assist auto adjusted? i.e. more assist on low speed - traffic, parking etc and less assist on high speed - highways, motorsports (drag racing etc)
Just one assist level
Like what you just do and can make, great to see. However what do you think about the comments on safety of the welds?
@@talisker1103 I will likely redo them
@ElectricSuperCar don't hey me wrong I really like your drive, energy and resourcefulness 😊 but double checking and if needed redoing makes sense. Continue this nice channel!
@talisker1103 thanks!
Love most of your work but that welding of the steering shafts is not good. You should have a pro weld that kind of stuff for you. Plus I do. It think that key way is strong enough for a steering system. You may want to figure out a way to use splined shafts
Should have just gone with a Mini R50 electric power steering pump and kept the hydraulic rack working. Keep modifications to the column etc to a minimum.
Not a bad idea
muito legal
i think i would have preferred electric hydraulic pump to standard powersteer rack. that way even without power, the steering wheel would still be manageable. what made you avoid that route?
Noise, efficiency, no fluids
Do an electric race kart build with your son
Ok. I now have no excuse. I've been sitting on the iBooster and the KIA power steering motor for over two years. I need to go and finally ditch hydroboost and install it in my Astro.
Go for it!
I love your videos and I don’t want to be a downer but what happens when the client needs to replace this pump? He’ll have to re-weld a new one, right? I know power steering pumps usually last a long time but they do go out eventually.
Love your videos and all your work, but that minor weld looks sketchy. You can hire somebody local to do mobile welding for like 200 bucks most of those guys have a lot of years under their belt and make sure that it’s done 100% correct plus it takes some of the liability away from you.
Absolutely not worth the risk with those welds, no taper, no preheat. I hope this thing isn’t going on the road
I wonder what it will take to get someone to be willing to sell EPS to consumers. ZF said they were going to start distributing an aftermarket EPS last year, and still haven’t. There are some Chinese manufacturers that make a quality product, but they have minimum orders, and aren’t interested in selling for personal projects.
The number and extent of the mods you had to do to make the $45 steering work is a little daunting.
I see Wedding Singer in the intro there
LOL!
It would be nice if an electrically powered hydraulic pump could supply fluid to the car’s original rack on demand. Also wouldn’t need to mod the column. Is a pump with integrated accumulator available?
Yes. People opt for the electric assist as it is silent...pumps...not so much
@@ElectricSuperCar The Volvo one I'm using is very quiet. You can hear it if standing beside it but not if inside the car with the doors and windows closed.
So you don't weld driveshafts yourself (which are not as such safety critical) - but you do weld steering axle which very much is safety critical... Yeah naaaa on the welding.
Sketchy at best with the shaft welding. You need to bevel both shafts to get enough penetration. Better yet you should have taken this to a professional shop. Your globs of weld shows not enough heat, too fast of wire speed, too slow of movement and general lack of welding experience for something this critical. This is a major safety issue for you and every other person on the road at the same time whenever you are on the road.
Algo
✌️
Music way too loud, it should be a bit more than a whisper in the background.
Nissan leaf is so much easier to fit
Super glad you ditched the al collar… that was not at all safe. Clip a curb and completely disable steering
Yikes…
Why not use an electric hydraulic pump?
Noise is the main reason. It is pumping all the time even when no steering input
Don’t use a Kia ignition lmao
The music is awful. I liked the rest of the video though but had to mute and skip most of it to avoid the terrible music
@@gabrielo8922 noted
Hydraulics better just get an electric hydraulic pump off of a Volkswagen V70
I'm surprised you're going to trust something as crucial as steering to flaky German electronics especially from a late model Volkswagen (and we all know about that rock solid Volkswagen electronics reliability). Good luck with that.
@@houseofno which other country produces steering pumps beside german companys? (ZF, Schaeffler, Bosch, trw(ZF))
I am not sure if VW does even build their own steering pumps
I opted for electric assist as it is silent. Otherwise the pump is going all the time
This is dangerous and unreliable. You need to calm down and think a little.❤
I’m not gonna touch the welded steering shaft, as that’s been pointed out, but one recommendation I have specifically from owning a Nissan specialty shop that specialized in 90’s S,R,Z chassis specifically.
For best result, you need to de-power the rack.
There are plenty of instructions on TH-cam. Essentially right now you are asking the that electric assist to drink a cold milkshake through a straw.
If this unit is speed variable it might mask it, but if this is a single rate, it’s going to struggle at quick movements and may even pop its fuse.
What Kia vehicle did you source this from?