Yes heat is part of the electromagnetic spectrum on the infrared end. I would suggest doing a clip test first , I know you would be sacrificing a couple of frames but then you have a clear (no un intended) point in which to adjust the developer time. Great video full of suspense and anticipation!
That’s pretty dense base fog. The trick with really expired film like this is to massively overexpose, and process in a low-fog developer like HC-110. You can even develop it cold/refrigerated and essentially a lot of the base fog never develops. Over the summer I shot a custom roll of some b&w movie film that was marked as expired in 1962, with some pretty fantastic results all things considered! I had outside help developing it though, I was too nervous to try myself and screw it up :P
What ISO did you shot the film at? box speed or a much slower ISO to allow for its age? although I guess there is a little luck needed with expired film. Thanks
I shoot expired film all the time and often get satisfactory to good results, the main trick to make a vintage film work is to overexpose it. If I were to shoot that film I would of halved the ISO per decade of age re-rating it, so the original ASA being 400 halving it 5 times brings it down from 400-200-100-50-25-12.5 to about 12 ISO, it being 46 years old then perhaps 15 ISO. Or I would of simply overexpose the aperture 4.5 stops. But of course film ages differently so the overexposure guideline doesn't always work but works a lot of the time with my experience with my vintage films. Anyhow did you shoot this film overexposed or at box speed? Anyways I have a Flickr channel featuring my 200+ expired films of all different types www.flickr.com/photos/51853869@N08/albums
Hey Troy, I just started following you on Flickr. I noticed you have shot several rolls which I have in my freezer. Besides compensating one stop per decade, do you have any other suggestions, perhaps in development? I'm mostly concerned with my Ektachrome rolls which im planning on developing in E-6 at home. Any advise would be appreciated.
Hey I see you have the big swinger. Do you have the original swinger? I do and I’ve bought two rolls from 1969 and 1974 for it haha. Tipping the 1974 roll will work as it was the more improved chemistry but the 1969 will probs be long gone.
i pressed the wrong comment button on your comment on the canon t 90 thank you i am dyslexic and they changed the format on my computer i could not tell you thank you and post it keep up the great info
I just developed a roll of Tri-X that was 40 years old. It was stored inside a storage unit all that time. I imagine the heat was typically upwards of 150F degrees for many days in the summers. The film was fogged to the point it looked milky. It definitely didn't age well. Heat and age are quite the enemies!
You'll likely get better results than I did. Also, another commenter in here +Morinaka25 and I were talking and agree overexposing might work out a little better.
What an ambitious project! 30 videos and rolls of film, wow! I just got two things I've wanted for a while. I picked up an A-1 in excellent shape with the FD 70-210 F4, for $40.
Did you try pulling the film at all by shooting below the suggested speed? I have heard that works and I have tried it out on a color roll that I have waiting to be developed.
A few others in the comments have said that overexposure is the way to go. 1 or 2 stops even. I accidentally overexposed a couple shots and that seems to fit their narrative.
Back in my college days, I used HC-110 in A (1:15) and B (1:31) dilution, as needed, since I (mostly) used Kodak film. With a Watson 66 bulk film loader, changing bag, and a Freestyle Sales catalog in hand, I looked at "European black-and-white/Classic black-and-white film." The former turned out to be Ilford, from Pan F to FP3 and HP4; the latter turned out to be East German ORWO film from ASA 100-400. ORWO film called for either Agfa Rodinal or Kodak D-76; HC-110 sorta worked, but not as well as Rodinal or D-76. Henceforth, since I was using all kinds of film from places far from Rochester, I started mixing D-76 after HC-110 ran out.
HC-110 is as convenient as Rodinal for mixing up small batches of film developer as needed. D-76 is for the "I have this roll of EFKE Adox film and Ilford HP5. Can I develop them in the same tank?" not-much-money-college-student situation. Most kinds of black-and-white film have a reference to development times in this "1927-developed-for-35mm-movie-film" powdered mix. Plus, D-76 can be replenished, if you don't mind keeping it for long term use. Otherwise, go HC-110!;)
Beautifully created such an old film to life again. A sticky mirror means the foam to old? Thanks for your work.. The cat wake up really a bomb bycaus of the special sound ;-) Did you try Fomapan film already? And witch developer you use?
Thanks for the comment William, this was some time ago so I have learned since then to add an f stop per decade it's expired. I still use HC-110 for its anti-fogging properties.
Great video. to bad the film was foggy but the photos you showed looked good but this should show people why the should always keep there film in a colder location or in a freezer or fridge dedecated for storing film.
Expired film is a bit of a lottery. I have quite a number of rolls of ORWO NP15 (25 ASA) and the first roll I shot was hardly fogged at all but I shot a roll yesterday and it’s quite badly fogged. I have a brick of ten rolls, so I’ll shoot one roll and see how it comes out rated at box speed. Love your channel, by the way!
You should see if you can bring a cameraman along with you for an episode, i know its not very vlog-like but i'd be interested to see your routine when taking a shot!
I shoot expired APS and some 135 with mixed generally poor results. Not much into Black and white films but found 2 rolls of 40+ year old TRI-X in my dads old camera bag. Kinda excited to try shooting them and seeing the results. Just have to find a good place to develop it. Probably will send it to The Darkroom.com unless I can find someplace cheaper. Gotta love film, don't get this kind of excitement with digital.
Thanks for the comment Andrew. Expired film gets less sensitive over time. If you watch these two vids you'll see my learning curve with 46 year old tri-x, I hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/7PZgmrc86v4/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/kd47nxXlT6E/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! Pickerazzo is a lot of fun, This Old Camera is also really great and the segment I started with. It takes well over 40 hours to make an episode though, so one a month at the most is all I can muster.
I tried shooting a 1963 expired plus x, gave it a normal development time in sprint standard, then tried making actual darkroom prints with it. Let's just say getting 260ish second print exposures is not a good thing...
The trickiest one to shoot is slide film, I've shot a 37 year old roll of Kodak Ektachrome and I kinda got decentish results but my dum dum self overexpose several frames.
@@AzrielKnight it's meh, you've really got to nail the right overexposure iso. The oldest I've seen that has had decent results is another TH-camr that shot a roll of fujifilm Provia or Velvia from 1994. He had cranked the iso down to 25. But I feel that the main variable is how it was stores over the years. I can't imagine shooting a very old roll Of low iso Kodachrome that's been expired for years. Like iso 25 or 50.
yeah sure that's the only way - overexposing, i just rate films lower ISO. Rotate the tank more frequently as well. But the more clarity you get the more grain you get - i actually like that for a change because i shoot a lot of slow fresh film and i start to miss that grain! Hahah.
@@AzrielKnight if an old roll is damaged, you will see it in the zones which should normally be transparent after the development. But you can cut a little piece of the film from the leader and soaking it in the fixer bath so that you will know if the film is ok or not. If it's transparent (which means that all the silver bromide have been dissolved from the film) the film is okay..
Old film looses speed so you should over-expose it by at lease one stop and possibly two stops. The film should be stand developed with Rodinal 1+ 100 for one hour or even 1 + 200 for two hours. You will get grain but you may also get a usable negative.
I have one more roll I was thinking of using. Another viewer mentioned the overexposure so that's great you helped confirm that. I don't have rodinal, but I do have HC-110 and know you can stand dev with that and it tends to have better grain results.
Your cat is definitely the star of your film. Probably the film fogging is partly due to cosmic rays and there's no way to prevent that from happening. There is some web discussion on using benzotriazole to reduce fog. Likely the best approach [as others note] is to rate the film at least two stops slower and then pull back the developing to match that. Thanks for a great video and good luck! Here's a source of that chemical with some guidelines for using it: stores.photoformulary.com/search.php?search_query=benzotriazole&x=0&y=0
That lead was for Leica's. You need a 4" lead for the early leica's. With old film.... you decrease the ISO rating for every decade its past its expiry date..... 400 in ten years rate at 200 in twenty years rate at 100. I'd probably leave it at -2.5 stops and then take my chances at that for anything older! .. Its just a rule of thumb but it helps :-) Ive also NO idea why there is a black line through the later of part of my message!!???
That's weird (the line). I've been hearing to overexpose the image, and develop as normal. I just came back from day 16, trying that theory with another old roll of tri-x, I guess we'll see if it's worse. :P
Well.... In theory you are doing the same..... Giving more light to an old film! Ive been listening to the FPP (Film photography project) for a good while now.. You've got to have seen or heard of them!? There is a wealth of tips and info there on shooting and developing old film! One of their recommendations is to stand develop old film in Rodinal (Ro9) at 100:1 for 60 min. I do a semi stand.... which involves a slight agitation (twist) at 30 minutes just to give the film a tad more fresh developer. The mix is weak and won't obliterate the emulsion but is strong enough to get the best from the old emulsion. Try it! (But don't treat the old film as hard in development as you would do with in-date film! Be really gentile with your agitations in developing, fixing and washing the film.
I actually just finished interviewing an FPP member for an episode I'm doing in September! I'm not going to spoil day 16 for you, but it did turn out well. Next time I shoot expired I think I'm going to try a combo of overexposing by 2-3 stops and pulling the film to reduce grain. And yes, you're right, I should have done a stand dev. but regular 5 min in HC-110 dil b also gave good results.
Keep the second one, don't use it. Having a 46 year old roll of film is a pretty cool thing to own. Maybe in the far future when film will either completely die or become an even rarer commodity this then even older roll of film will stand as a testament of a precious time.
This seems more contrasts then normal. I know what I need to do. A street photographer does what a street photographer needs to do. Loved the first shot and the shot of the Canada geese. The geese one, however, did feel a bit boring in composition, no offense. And i can't stop watching the part with your cat.
I like the honest feedback. With that one, if was one of the few with actual highlights, and I was impressed I got that close without getting attacked...there was about a dozen of them.
+Azriel Knight Huh interesting, although not as difficult since you went with a telephoto. Had you chosen your favorite wide angles (35mm FTW) you would have really had a hard time.
The cat shots are hilarious.
lol, thanks
Liked for the sleeping cat!
I remember occasionally getting 35 mm Kodak film wrapped like your TriX back in the '70s.
Amazing !!! Thanks for showing the photos!! I just bought the same stock expired 1971
Thanks James :)
Yes heat is part of the electromagnetic spectrum on the infrared end.
I would suggest doing a clip test first , I know you would be sacrificing a couple of frames but then you have a clear (no un intended) point in which to adjust the developer time.
Great video full of suspense and anticipation!
Best one yet, despite less than optimal negatives. Like the geese. Used to photograph geese and ducks. Like your cat!
Thanks Merlin, so far people like them and one person suggested that expired film needs to be overexposed. I might try that with the other roll.
That’s pretty dense base fog. The trick with really expired film like this is to massively overexpose, and process in a low-fog developer like HC-110. You can even develop it cold/refrigerated and essentially a lot of the base fog never develops. Over the summer I shot a custom roll of some b&w movie film that was marked as expired in 1962, with some pretty fantastic results all things considered! I had outside help developing it though, I was too nervous to try myself and screw it up :P
I pull one stop for each decade, meter for that in camera, then stand development. Still, good stuff here. Keep it up.
I could smell the film as you open. I remember the 120 rolls of film in those paper foils.
Brilliant cat..... Looks so easy !
What ISO did you shot the film at? box speed or a much slower ISO to allow for its age? although I guess there is a little luck needed with expired film. Thanks
Nice work young man! A+ on the beard too.
LOL, you really know how to win a man's heart ;)
I shoot expired film all the time and often get satisfactory to good results, the main trick to make a vintage film work is to overexpose it. If I were to shoot that film I would of halved the ISO per decade of age re-rating it, so the original ASA being 400 halving it 5 times brings it down from 400-200-100-50-25-12.5 to about 12 ISO, it being 46 years old then perhaps 15 ISO. Or I would of simply overexpose the aperture 4.5 stops. But of course film ages differently so the overexposure guideline doesn't always work but works a lot of the time with my experience with my vintage films. Anyhow did you shoot this film overexposed or at box speed? Anyways I have a Flickr channel featuring my 200+ expired films of all different types www.flickr.com/photos/51853869@N08/albums
I believe I give another crack at that film later in the marathon and overexpose close to what you suggested, with much better results!
Hey Troy, I just started following you on Flickr. I noticed you have shot several rolls which I have in my freezer. Besides compensating one stop per decade, do you have any other suggestions, perhaps in development? I'm mostly concerned with my Ektachrome rolls which im planning on developing in E-6 at home. Any advise would be appreciated.
I’m shooting a 35mm year old roll of the same stuff as this at box speed 🤷🏻♂️
That is awesome! I would love to find an old roll like that.
eBay, but don't pay too much!
Hey I see you have the big swinger. Do you have the original swinger? I do and I’ve bought two rolls from 1969 and 1974 for it haha. Tipping the 1974 roll will work as it was the more improved chemistry but the 1969 will probs be long gone.
That's my only swinger. I have an episode kicking around where I found it in my Pickerazzo (thrifting) series. Never used it :)
Azriel Knight I believe there is still film around for those big swinger cameras. They use pack film.
If you have a link to new pack film, I am very interested :)
great video. to get image's from a 40 year old film is good work. well done 👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
i pressed the wrong comment button on your comment on the canon t 90 thank you i am dyslexic and they changed the format on my computer i could not tell you thank you and post it keep up the great info
no problem :)
These shots have been my favorites so far. They really seemed like old photographs rather then images shot so recently.
Thanks Ryan. You and my wife would get along, she says I'm too hard on myself :)
I just developed a roll of Tri-X that was 40 years old. It was stored inside a storage unit all that time. I imagine the heat was typically upwards of 150F degrees for many days in the summers. The film was fogged to the point it looked milky. It definitely didn't age well. Heat and age are quite the enemies!
Awesome. I've got a roll of Tri-X pan sitting around that expired in 81, looking forward to shooting it!
You'll likely get better results than I did. Also, another commenter in here +Morinaka25 and I were talking and agree overexposing might work out a little better.
sounds good! I'll definitely do that, thanks for the advice and looking forward to more videos!
+Bryan Fusco maybe wait till I take the plunge with that other roll just in case I'm wrong lol.
What is it about us photographers all having cats? Even Ted Forbes and Kai have them! Another great video.
lol, thanks :)
I don't have one unfortunately
Did the negs have the signature "Kodak Safety Film" on?
I liked the graininess of the film. I wasn't sure what to expect from expired film but I enjoyed the shots you got.
thanks. I love grain as well. I found these to have little tonal range tho and almost no shadow detail.
I love the first picture though with the hotel
Thank you!
thank you on t 90
What an ambitious project! 30 videos and rolls of film, wow! I just got two things I've wanted for a while. I picked up an A-1 in excellent shape with the FD 70-210 F4, for $40.
I really need to get my A-1 fixed.
Azriel Knight
What's wrong with it? So that I know what to watch for.
oh just the front seal needs replacing and I have neither the time nor the patience or the skill :P
You'll find a replacement in your travels.
The one I have my father in law gave me....sentimental value, plus he really took care of it.
So you shot it at nominal asa, right?
thanx
yes but I ended up compensating on my next roll.
Hey just wondering at what speed did you shoot at, 40+ years old so at 50? And did you develop it at box speed? Thanks.
I shot this one at box speed but I'm pretty sure I compensated better with my second roll a couple weeks after, sorry its been awhile :)
OKOK I see. Thank you.
Did you try pulling the film at all by shooting below the suggested speed? I have heard that works and I have tried it out on a color roll that I have waiting to be developed.
A few others in the comments have said that overexposure is the way to go. 1 or 2 stops even. I accidentally overexposed a couple shots and that seems to fit their narrative.
Back in my college days, I used HC-110 in A (1:15) and B (1:31) dilution, as needed, since I (mostly) used Kodak film. With a Watson 66 bulk film loader, changing bag, and a Freestyle Sales catalog in hand, I looked at "European black-and-white/Classic black-and-white film." The former turned out to be Ilford, from Pan F to FP3 and HP4; the latter turned out to be East German ORWO film from ASA 100-400. ORWO film called for either Agfa Rodinal or Kodak D-76; HC-110 sorta worked, but not as well as Rodinal or D-76. Henceforth, since I was using all kinds of film from places far from Rochester, I started mixing D-76 after HC-110 ran out.
What do you think of D76 vs HC-110
HC-110 is as convenient as Rodinal for mixing up small batches of film developer as needed. D-76 is for the "I have this roll of EFKE Adox film and Ilford HP5. Can I develop them in the same tank?" not-much-money-college-student situation. Most kinds of black-and-white film have a reference to development times in this "1927-developed-for-35mm-movie-film" powdered mix. Plus, D-76 can be replenished, if you don't mind keeping it for long term use. Otherwise, go HC-110!;)
I think one thing rodinal has over hc-110 is the goop takes longer to mix.
Beautifully created such an old film to life again. A sticky mirror means the foam to old? Thanks for your work.. The cat wake up really a bomb bycaus of the special sound ;-) Did you try Fomapan film already? And witch developer you use?
Glad you enjoyed the video! Its been awhile since I did this video, can you time stamp what you mean by sticky mirror?
The leader is Ok for a Leica /Fed /Zorki M39 ;screw mount range finder
ah, gotcha.
How did you develop the film? Old Tri-X needed longer development time than the new Tri-X you buy today.
Thanks for the comment William, this was some time ago so I have learned since then to add an f stop per decade it's expired.
I still use HC-110 for its anti-fogging properties.
I just got a roll of this stuff. what development times do I need for Id-11
Well that didnt pan out to well :) Did you try the other roll overexposing it like some in the comments said? It should work. Thanks for sharing :)
I did!
@@AzrielKnight Nice! I have searched your videos but i cant seem to find it?
Great video. to bad the film was foggy but the photos you showed looked good but this should show people why the should always keep there film in a colder location or in a freezer or fridge dedecated for storing film.
That's a good tip!
I like how 135 film was packaged back in the day
Same. Kodak doesn't even put instructions on the inside of the box anymore...
Azriel Knight yeah, and the boxes now just say process promptly C41 or something like that lol.. And I love your content man!!
Hey, thanks :)
Expired film is a bit of a lottery. I have quite a number of rolls of ORWO NP15 (25 ASA) and the first roll I shot was hardly fogged at all but I shot a roll yesterday and it’s quite badly fogged. I have a brick of ten rolls, so I’ll shoot one roll and see how it comes out rated at box speed. Love your channel, by the way!
Thanks very much Ian, appreciate the comment :)
Can you please let me know the music played?
Shocked that i came across this haha I live in Calgary, know of some sure places to get expired film?
lol eBay. Calgary's a pretty dry city for used equipment. Lots of overpriced stuff at Value Village and Shoulder to Shoulder.
That cat tho 😂
How much is one of those straps? I've wanted one forever, as it can hold film reloads
Oh, is the K1000 like super light? the MEsuper i have is ridiculously light
I find vintage straps with the cameras generally. I have sold them on eBay for about 25 bucks. The K1000 is a middle weight IMO.
AH well that's fairly cheap. My local vintage camera store sells them for around 75 bucks i believe :/
I like that effect of the large grain. Is that because of the age or is it overexposed?
A little of both probably. You need to overexpose expired film for a proper result.
you might get better results overexposing about 2 stops thats what i do with film expired more than 20 years and it usually gets better results
Thank Daron, that's the consensus from other viewers as well. I have one more roll somewhere and will try it!
cool!
You should see if you can bring a cameraman along with you for an episode, i know its not very vlog-like but i'd be interested to see your routine when taking a shot!
Thanks for the feedback. I'll give that serious consideration.
just loaded a roll of plus-x pan from '77 in my Canon t70.
Nice, let me know how it goes!
Azriel Knight just developed it. worked well considering its age. have yet to scan it (still drying). shot at 50 and 25 iso
I shoot expired APS and some 135 with mixed generally poor results. Not much into Black and white films but found 2 rolls of 40+ year old TRI-X in my dads old camera bag. Kinda excited to try shooting them and seeing the results. Just have to find a good place to develop it. Probably will send it to The Darkroom.com unless I can find someplace cheaper.
Gotta love film, don't get this kind of excitement with digital.
Thanks for the comment Andrew. Expired film gets less sensitive over time. If you watch these two vids you'll see my learning curve with 46 year old tri-x, I hope this helps.
th-cam.com/video/7PZgmrc86v4/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/kd47nxXlT6E/w-d-xo.html
when are you going to do another this old camera
I'll have one out in August most likely.
+Azriel Knight I am surprised you don't have more subscribers I like your pick videos and I really like your this old camera ones...
Thanks! Pickerazzo is a lot of fun, This Old Camera is also really great and the segment I started with. It takes well over 40 hours to make an episode though, so one a month at the most is all I can muster.
I have a 5 rolls of Tri-X 120 that expired in 1978. People think it will be fogged when used.
I will try it one day.
I'm being told that overexposing is the key. I have a roll of HP5 exp 1981 I may try, that should give you some help with yours.
Since posting (2 years ago) I used the Tri-x at 200asa and got fantastic results. Best B&W ever made in my opinion.
I tried shooting a 1963 expired plus x, gave it a normal development time in sprint standard, then tried making actual darkroom prints with it. Let's just say getting 260ish second print exposures is not a good thing...
lol, yeah 260 seconds is a bit on the heavy side.
fogging is the problem over the years.
It looks as though light has got in even when it hasn't.
Overexpose and stand develop, would be my initial thought.
I think the leader is that long because the older Leica cameras needed very long ones.
Felt pretty good loading into a K1000 too :)
Really enjoyed seeing it. Gives me hope for my 1984 expired Plus X too.
OOO! Nice!
The trickiest one to shoot is slide film, I've shot a 37 year old roll of Kodak Ektachrome and I kinda got decentish results but my dum dum self overexpose several frames.
I imagine it's not as resilient as B&W either.
@@AzrielKnight it's meh, you've really got to nail the right overexposure iso. The oldest I've seen that has had decent results is another TH-camr that shot a roll of fujifilm Provia or Velvia from 1994. He had cranked the iso down to 25. But I feel that the main variable is how it was stores over the years. I can't imagine shooting a very old roll Of low iso Kodachrome that's been expired for years. Like iso 25 or 50.
Faint is the name of the game with very expired rolls :)
Any way to compensate with exposure/developing? Another commenter on here said overexposing.
yeah sure that's the only way - overexposing, i just rate films lower ISO. Rotate the tank more frequently as well. But the more clarity you get the more grain you get - i actually like that for a change because i shoot a lot of slow fresh film and i start to miss that grain! Hahah.
Great, that sounds promising!
Why didn't you test the film by fixing the bait ? If that had been transparent, it has meant that the film was okay
Can you elaborate?
@@AzrielKnight if an old roll is damaged, you will see it in the zones which should normally be transparent after the development. But you can cut a little piece of the film from the leader and soaking it in the fixer bath so that you will know if the film is ok or not. If it's transparent (which means that all the silver bromide have been dissolved from the film) the film is okay..
Old film looses speed so you should over-expose it by at lease one stop and possibly two stops. The film should be stand developed with Rodinal 1+ 100 for one hour or even 1 + 200 for two hours. You will get grain but you may also get a usable negative.
I have one more roll I was thinking of using. Another viewer mentioned the overexposure so that's great you helped confirm that. I don't have rodinal, but I do have HC-110 and know you can stand dev with that and it tends to have better grain results.
Your cat is definitely the star of your film. Probably the film fogging is partly due to cosmic rays and there's no way to prevent that from happening. There is some web discussion on using benzotriazole to reduce fog. Likely the best approach [as others note] is to rate the film at least two stops slower and then pull back the developing to match that. Thanks for a great video and good luck! Here's a source of that chemical with some guidelines for using it: stores.photoformulary.com/search.php?search_query=benzotriazole&x=0&y=0
Thanks Larry. HC-110 is great for low fog too.
That lead was for Leica's. You need a 4" lead for the early leica's. With old film.... you decrease the ISO rating for every decade its past its expiry date..... 400 in ten years rate at 200 in twenty years rate at 100. I'd probably leave it at -2.5 stops and then take my chances at that for anything older! .. Its just a rule of thumb but it helps :-) Ive also NO idea why there is a black line through the later of part of my message!!???
That's weird (the line).
I've been hearing to overexpose the image, and develop as normal. I just came back from day 16, trying that theory with another old roll of tri-x, I guess we'll see if it's worse. :P
Well.... In theory you are doing the same..... Giving more light to an old film! Ive been listening to the FPP (Film photography project) for a good while now.. You've got to have seen or heard of them!? There is a wealth of tips and info there on shooting and developing old film! One of their recommendations is to stand develop old film in Rodinal (Ro9) at 100:1 for 60 min. I do a semi stand.... which involves a slight agitation (twist) at 30 minutes just to give the film a tad more fresh developer. The mix is weak and won't obliterate the emulsion but is strong enough to get the best from the old emulsion. Try it! (But don't treat the old film as hard in development as you would do with in-date film! Be really gentile with your agitations in developing, fixing and washing the film.
I actually just finished interviewing an FPP member for an episode I'm doing in September!
I'm not going to spoil day 16 for you, but it did turn out well. Next time I shoot expired I think I'm going to try a combo of overexposing by 2-3 stops and pulling the film to reduce grain. And yes, you're right, I should have done a stand dev. but regular 5 min in HC-110 dil b also gave good results.
+Azriel Knight looking forward to watching it ☺️
I can't believe I just got jumpscared by a cat...
LOL, that wasn't my intent :P
I used expired film it WA green tinted
Sometimes film leaves behind a dye, could be due to under washing, or like you said, age.
Keep the second one, don't use it. Having a 46 year old roll of film is a pretty cool thing to own. Maybe in the far future when film will either completely die or become an even rarer commodity this then even older roll of film will stand as a testament of a precious time.
yeah it's tempting, but I'm still 50/50
Heat is detrimental, but even cool stored film will fog due to residual cosmic radiation.
Agreed.
1:27 cat jumpscare
This seems more contrasts then normal. I know what I need to do. A street photographer does what a street photographer needs to do. Loved the first shot and the shot of the Canada geese. The geese one, however, did feel a bit boring in composition, no offense. And i can't stop watching the part with your cat.
I like the honest feedback. With that one, if was one of the few with actual highlights, and I was impressed I got that close without getting attacked...there was about a dozen of them.
+Azriel Knight Huh interesting, although not as difficult since you went with a telephoto. Had you chosen your favorite wide angles (35mm FTW) you would have really had a hard time.
some that old overexpose it by a few stops.
3:13 Hm .. air from the 60th ..
?
sorry do you mean like "I released 1960's air"? cuz that's awesome :)
Azriel Knight Yes .. Sorry sometimes I forgett that the Video I watching is english ..
I did an unboxing of a sealed Fed 5, someone else said I should have sucked in the air from the bag :)
Azriel Knight In case of a Russian camera this is an rather bad idea.
hahahah "that is an impressive lead"...
agreed :)
Solar radiation is causing most of the fog over time.
Thanks Eric, I've never heard that. I'd love to see an article or reference.
These came out pretty amazing! I recently shot some Tri-X 400 on my Canonet 28, results are here: th-cam.com/video/3cedqlZZ6ts/w-d-xo.html