As an axe collector, grain orientation is a prime consideration and can impact value for me. But, I've also heard numerous times that as long as it's at least 45 degrees to the head, it's functionally fine. But when paying a lot for a tool, or a premium handle for a refit, perfect orientation is required.
Liam Hoffman from Hoffman Blacksmithing says on his website that any axe under (I believe) 24” won’t have orientated handle grain since their tests have shown there is zero difference under that length.
@aubreyleonae4108 I do also have that small hammer. I use it for gunsmithing. It's great for removing pins when cleaning firearms. I didn't say that previously because I liked your varmint comment, and I couldn't resist commenting on that. Have a great day.
You don't see Bergeon mentioned a lot. I got into collecting military watches. Watchmakers charge a fortune to work on them so I started learning about watchmaking. I end up spending more on tools mostly Bergeon, than I did on the watches. I bought stuff from the 20's and 30's that's no longer made.
Off topic Doc, but would you mind reviewing the newer model Milwaukee jab saw(all red) to see how it compares to the one with the rubber overmolded handle. I’m trying to determine if I should pay more for the older model. Thanks!
To achieve perfect vetical grain structure and ONLY purchasing handles based off it you are contributing to a LOT of waste when its really not necessary. Anything of centre by 45° is totally fine. Poor skill using a striking tool is far more responsible for premature failure than grain structure. The guys making the handles have to charge a LOT more if folks reject perfectly good handles based off grain structure being slightly off perfect. Ask someone who spends a lot of time splittling wood why handles fail.
I have a set of non-marring hammers from Harbor Freight. I can't see the grain in the steel tube handles but I think they pretty much nailed it.
Thor Hammers from the UK are worth a look, still made in England
As an axe collector, grain orientation is a prime consideration and can impact value for me. But, I've also heard numerous times that as long as it's at least 45 degrees to the head, it's functionally fine. But when paying a lot for a tool, or a premium handle for a refit, perfect orientation is required.
Definitely worth the price. I'll have to pick one up next time. Thanks Doc
Liam Hoffman from Hoffman Blacksmithing says on his website that any axe under (I believe) 24” won’t have orientated handle grain since their tests have shown there is zero difference under that length.
Thank you for the information. That's, actually, good to know.
Still have that same Harbor Freight hammer on my work bench. A work horse. I give that jewelers hammer a 5 star out of 5
I have a couple of those, I use them on anything small, mostly jewelry and such.
Also a good varmint hammer to keep bedside
I, too, keep a varmint hammer at the bedside. My varmint hammer is .45 caliber.
@@newguy2794 😎🤣😃😄😅👍
@aubreyleonae4108 I do also have that small hammer. I use it for gunsmithing. It's great for removing pins when cleaning firearms. I didn't say that previously because I liked your varmint comment, and I couldn't resist commenting on that.
Have a great day.
I use a similar hammer for watchmaking. You are not going to town hammering on parts. Just firm quick taps. So, the handle is not seeing much stress.
Of all those hammers, the stiletto handle will break first, then second and third.. ask me how I now. Definitely not old growth hickory.
From what I've seen personally and heard from others, I don't think wood grain orientation really makes a difference.
Looks like a copy of a Bergeon 30417 watchmakers hammer.
You don't see Bergeon mentioned a lot. I got into collecting military watches. Watchmakers charge a fortune to work on them so I started learning about watchmaking. I end up spending more on tools mostly Bergeon, than I did on the watches. I bought stuff from the 20's and 30's that's no longer made.
Off topic Doc, but would you mind reviewing the newer model Milwaukee jab saw(all red) to see how it compares to the one with the rubber overmolded handle. I’m trying to determine if I should pay more for the older model. Thanks!
I got one thinking it would be great for adjusting hand planes or the like
Is that Snap-on handle old-growth redwood?
I like my halders
To achieve perfect vetical grain structure and ONLY purchasing handles based off it you are contributing to a LOT of waste when its really not necessary. Anything of centre by 45° is totally fine. Poor skill using a striking tool is far more responsible for premature failure than grain structure. The guys making the handles have to charge a LOT more if folks reject perfectly good handles based off grain structure being slightly off perfect. Ask someone who spends a lot of time splittling wood why handles fail.