SAYING GOODBYE to my Mk1 Escort problems?? 🤔
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- The problem I discovered in a recent video with the ST170 engine in my Mk1 Escort, is now GONE! 😃
Buuut another issue has arisen! 🤔
#fordescortmk1 #engineproblems #scrap
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Make sure your happy with what you doing mate because i know many people who regret sell certain cars which they have had for long times in there life and the memory with them be happy mate
You heard through your ears !!! Wow 😅
Ooooooh baiting I thought she had been sold 😎
No-one would buy her! She's JUNK! 😃
I dare say, that’s lookin a blind sight better than a bottom end issue
Yep! 😃
As always good content keep them coming mate
Thanks for watching mate! 👍
The throttle body bushes are worn allowing more air into the engine, ready for replacement. Thank you Marcus
Keep all of your eskys you will regret getting rid of one or two.
Nice one mate. Maybe do another test once it's running sweet.
👍
Pleased your sorted m8
👍
Marcus stick up links to your other channel 👍🏻
Yeah mate I’m glad your escort is still working my focus st has stopped working the auxiliary belt split two and is on the crank wheel and locked the engine now I’ve got a month to get it running for the Ford show
If you mean it jumped off the tensioner and gave the crank pulley an extra tight hug just chop through the belt until it lets go of the crank pulley. Otherwise it's pull the pulley off.
@@R6AAO I like tight hugs, but maybe not on my ST though aha. It’s currently at NGGTEC being looked at after being recovered this morning.
@doubledlovefords4903 Iv heard of this fault before! 🙁 You'd think the covers in front of the cam belt would stop a broken alternator belt being able to get to the cam belt!
@@marcushayesford yeah you’d think so I can only blame myself for this I new the alternator belt needed doing as it was squeaking but the garage it’s has gone to very good on performance cars in my area fingers crossed I can get it done for Santa pod
🤞
Vvt shouldn't work whilst cold, stock vechiles won't, I definitely think it's a coolant sensor issue
Good to know that the VVT not working when the engine is cold might actually be normal. I’m pretty certain that the smoke in the previous video was indeed the coolant sensor becoming unplugged (based on the tests we did since that video) 👍
@marcusheyrsford
You might want to create a cut inner tube 'rubber band' strap &/or lockwire to keep the coolant sensor connector correctly seated,🧐🤗
...and perhaps think of making a short & semi-simple air deflector plate and guide(s)/baffles(s) to both protect the sockets/firewall through-port from direct radiant heat from the exhaust forward & below and direct some cooling airflow upon the sensor connector so its plastic doesn't bake and weaken more than it has already.
Also, yes, an engine that responds poorly to a closing throttle (that's not related to too tightly a curving throttle cable(s), or weak return spring).
96 times out of 100, is having air leaking issues, normally upon/within the intake's unions between the rubber ring mounts, the gaskets, the metal intake bodies/manifold runners, the head/block itself, or the plenums/airbox etc,
...or within actual throttling butterflies or CV catb slides operating clearances being overly worn out of spec...
And it seems your front pair are having both intake gasket leaks and the control spindle leaks, meaning the bushings of them are shot/worn out.
Better to unfortunately take off all/both Webber sets and thoroughly inspect, if the front pair is worn the rear pair will not be too far behind!..😮😰
...replacing which bits are (missing! nuts & washers/sealing grommets etc,) going close to gone or past limits of feeling too loose at certain positions/angles for peace of mind and safety's sake lest a sticking throttle leads to a unwanted situation in the future.😱😂
Hi Marcus. Didn’t you damage trumpet number 3 when taking engine out alittle while ago. Maybe it’s disturbed something. When throttle body’s off have a good look for damage/cracks. Hope it’s an easy fix.
Yes I damages it nearly 2 years ago when we took the engine out over in Northern Ireland to do the clutch. Once I take the itbs off Ill defo give them a good look for any damage etc. 👍
I had a similar thing with the revs in a g#lf I had I had to get a mate to plug into the car and reset the throttle body don't know if that's any help
I did think it might be the throttle position sensor needing recalibrating (if thats what you mean??) but its absolutely fine. 👍
Yay, bottom-end crisis averted?
Surely this means you've more time to save for low-comp pistons for the next bottom end in the future? 😁😁
Low comp pistons for a turbo??? 🤔 I defo need a turbo ion my life one day! 😃
@@marcushayesford 😉
where has the lock nut gone on the air control valve on number 2 throttle body? Also if you are using a flammable liquid you should here the revs rise not lower when you find the leak?
Keep forgetting to order a new one of those nuts! 😀 . . . It’s my understanding that the air leak causes the revs to rise, and when you spray the intake cleaner it temporarily blocks the leak and causes the revs to drop back down??? 🤔
Also further what Iam saying
When u go on a rolling road ur paying for timing of injecter and either advancing or regarding ignition timing at all rev ranging
U have deffo got an air leak somewhere how old are the rubber inlet bodies?
I have full trust in my tuner mate. The itbs have been on a good few years. 👍
@@marcushayesford Iam not saying your tuner ain’t no good am saying what you said fire once all together every 4 stokes
Great channel love your vids mate just giving advice on what I know , it might be wrong but u never know
Appreciate the advice mate! 👍
Revs hanging is due to coolant temp sencer with out doudt its all related to the sencer being loose
When we ran the trial and error tests to confirm (I think) that the smoke in the previous video was caused by the coolant sensor being unplugged (including doing pulls with it disconnected) it didn’t cause rev hang at all. The revs also drop slightly at idle with the sensor unplugged. 👍
Relating to the previous video i would sell the Mk2 with the corrosion .If you are getting £3500(?) for it ,maybe not enough revenue to complete the stadard Mk 2 in beige but will help finances and save a lot of time and work .and obviously money that is now draining your resources
Save up for the rest of the finances and develop the peach of a Mk 1 for competition use .
Its alright doing all these burn outs and drifting on the public roads but one day you will come a cropper i`m sure.
I am a state pensioner of 72 years and perhaps see things differently but give your cars some mechanical sympathy = reliability.
I have also three projects on the go .The Mk 1 Cortina i have has been on the cooking for 4 years now in semi competition guise ,plus 2 Imp projects that i do in interim work but will never have the money to compete with them.
I have found that drifting is an ideal way to obtain car control for circuit racing ,track days or 'speed events from competitors that i know Also on grass off road events..
Your Life but that is the way i see things going forward for you.
The TH-cam site can carry interest in the progress of the standard Mk 2 in its build and potential static showing at historic car meets and the Mk 1 your semi competition events,
Much more in my mind than constantly breaking diffs and half shafts.
I was offered 4K at the very most by my mate. Although I'm not saying its worth more than that, its just not worth me selling it for that much considering all the bits I'v fitted to it over the years. 👍
Marcus you said the injectors all fire at once per cycle . Surely that would flood a cylinder coming up to tdc on fire stroke and it is not optimum timing for firing
Would promote pre detonation?
U sure bout that ?
Or am I wrong 😊
Im honestly not sure mate. I can only assume the ECU was in the batch setting when it was tuned so Im probably better off leaving it as it is?? 🤔
Just checked in the online manual and the batch setting fires all the injectors every 720 degrees (so once every 2 engine cycles) and its basically a setting for if you don't have a can sensor. Not sure if I change it to sequential if that would mean my mapping would then be wrong. But to be honest Im not 100% sure I didn't mess about with that setting before when I was having running issues last year. And my tuning laptop (with all my previous maps) is broken so I cant even double check the map on my ecu! 🙁
@@marcushayesford thanks for getting back to me Marcus , I would contact your ecu guys and check
Individual throttle bodies are meant to run independent of each other I think and sure the injectors fire at the optimum time to make power gains with vvt
Your compression tests even sound funny with two pots giving good reading and the other two not
Unplug the vvt and then do them
Yes it was strange that the readings were different when I put oil in the cylinders. They were the same when. I did the test without putting oil in the cylinders tho. 👍
Sequential firing is mainly used for emissions improvements.
I offered to do your welding in the other video , but looks like my comment was deleted ! Very strange ?
i never thought the crank/piston rings were gone mate, it isn't burning oil.......... if it's burning oil you can't miss it, plus if it's bearings you'll hear it, it sounds like marbles.......... low compression could be rich mixture....... i'll give you some advice STOP THRASHING IT.............. yea leaky intake gasket and on the carb to..... this is good news LOL....... much cheaper than bottom end/ rings
You must be new around here... Thrashing it is his own business. He paid for it. He wants a problem solved. Not a confession.
Yeah, like Marcus is gonna stop sending it whenever the opportunity presents........😂
'Esther' loves a good thrashing!! 😃
@@marcushayesford yea it looks like you're ok but sorting out those throttle bodies looks a nightmare.....
He spends a lot of time in 'mexico'