Watching your channel right now reminds me of when I was watching (Mike) Gavko and Tuffthumbz. Like they were dudes that started collecting and then started making their own knives. Back when they were just starting it was pretty simple stuff. A cheap bench grinder, ect. Then slowly and slowly they started getting progressively more into it. I wouldn't be surprised if 5 years from now you'll be showing us your new workshop area and your new milling machine and talking fondly about how you use to use a simple angled jig to grind knife bevels years ago.
Awesome looking jig! I really like the barrel adjustment. Seems easier than the single screw on the angle iron versions (I use the angle iron version myself).
Alex, I have an idea for the extra light-weight knife. You should try to use circular sawblade as material of the knifeblank. It might looks stupid, but it is very flexible and doesn't need heat treath. Give it a try.
The angle adjuster, does the knurling also contact the work-rest? As in, if you're sliding it back and forth constantly, is the knurling scratching up the work-rest? I happen to use aluminum work rest to protect my knives with using the push stick method and wonder if this jig would chew it up faster than normal.
Yeah it does touch the work rest and it would probably be a problem if your using aluminum. Im sure they would make one without the knurling if you wanted.
Na man I got same jig.. Tighten both Allen keys first onto blade as a clamp put it in holder and do up big knob. To do other side just undo the big knob ONLY and take knife and bracket out and turn it around. Thats why there's a threaded hole on the other side for the BIG KNOB.. You only do Allen key bolts once to keep plunge lines correct like a file guide . Cheers!
Welcome back Man! We all wait for your come-back. Your new shop looks nice. Hope you show us a big, complicated project, that you're planning... I know you got one... Best regrats from left handed lathe operator from KZ.
I've been freehanding for a long time grind lines never turn out right I started only doing full flat grinds. I never thought about it being the belts.
I just use a couple pieces squared off mild steel flat bar with holes drilled in them with a couple bolts and nuts. Tighten it down and you can get perfect plunge lines. I freehand and have a knack for it, but I use the little bars because it just makes life simple. It's like a file guide, takes 2 minutes to make a new one if I need to, and doesn't cost a crap load of money!
I have always done all my knives freehand, but I have now got so many cuts and grinding scars on my fingers and hands that I'm thinking maybe I should get a jig to save my hands from getting their own primary bevel put on them. Do they ship to the UK?
Cool. Very clever design. Thanks for the review, Alex. Seems to me that if you clamp at the plunge line and use the clamp as a plunge line guide, you can change the knob to the other side and get perfect symmetry in both plunge line and bevel. The way you're using it, the plunge line and bevel is an eyeball thing. The true utility of the jig is being missed entirely. Once you take the knife out of the clamp and turn it around, your precision in symmetry is gone. That's why the designer has threads in the center hole on both sides of the clamp, I'm pretty sure. Use the cap screws to secure your blade at the plunge line, grind side one, then move the knob to the other side of the clamp to perfectly repeat on side two what you did on side one. Don't take the knife out right in the middle, leave it in the clamp, and move the knob to the other side. IMHO...
The clamp cant be used as a guide. The belt will chew through it in a second if used as a guide. You would need a carbide guide for that. The jig was designed to be used in that manner, however, during the course of making knives the knife has to be removed a handful of times from the guide. It can be used as a quick side to side but to clamp it once and be done isnt the way i do things. I have a number of videos on why this is the case.
@@OUTDOORS55 I get it, you said as much in your video. That's how you do it. A:OK. It's only a suggestion for a more efficient use of this excellent tool. Like most of us, I have several plunge line guides, and they are all made from mild steel. They rarely get a scratch, because they ride on the side of the platen. The Whiteboneknives jig seems perfectly capable of serving in the manner I propose. Perhaps you could give it a try? Maybe you will like using it as suggested. Or, you could send one to me and I'll try it and report back to you...
I think its up to how comfortable you feel with the jig. You could do a 10" blade length with it but is sort of awkward. Of course you could do as long as you want but it puts the jig farther away. Theres not really a hard limit.
@@OUTDOORS55 the length you can do has more to do with the size if your tool rest than the jig itself, I have done a 14" bowie with mine but I clamped a 1/4" x 4" x 30" Aluminum plate onto the top of my tool rest to effectively give me a 30" wide tool rest.
Those notches are called a 'choil' and some makers/customers like them as a starting/stopping point for sharpening. I dislike choils because I use my knives in the field, and those darn notches get snagged up on any animal you may be field dressing!
Thank you for another excellent video Alex. The jig appears very well designed and manufactured. So QQ: I don’t recall, but how are you finding/ marking centerline of your blade stock (CL of spine)?
I have seen so manz bevel jig vids and i still think that the one i made myselfe is the best jig out there unmatched even by the 400$+jigs All those jigs have some problems and none of them is the "perfekt" one. The barrel style high adjustment on this one is just not exact enough for very small adjustments and unscrew the knive everytime you want to switch sides is a pain in the butt because you have to find the exact same position everytime you switch sides back again. If i ever make another one im gona film it and put it on yt.
Make sure you work rest is perfectly square to your platen as well as perfectly smooth. Thats the down fall of jigs. they dont do well if everything isn't perfect to each other. They also still take practice to get right.
You can make one ,with some changes.....its very easy, with some cheap tools. I made all my staff for knife making. Its easy, its not like proffesional tools.....but its ok for me. Alex hope you well you and your familly.......
have one for years.its great made lot of knives this i great you dont like it ill buy it im starting another shop...let knife makers get in and grind......i use a floor board to make largerplatform....w,smith i need a large belt grinder anyone help ill review pleasehelp walt
Good grief that thing is as outa the park design wise as well as cost wise. $237.50....phfeeew! Let me know when they make one a little lighter in both design and cost. Ya know something around say, $60.
Also that fuckin thing needs an angle indicator. Possible at the bottom on the face of that cylinder. Surely if they can engineer this piece of shit, surely they can add that on the next over priced wallet drainer. Thnx
An angle indicator is not needed. Angles can be checked with other tools if needed. It would add cost as well. Sounds like your a tire kicker anyway🤷♂️
Admitting you're lazy multiple times in your video is like repenting. Since I'm not the creator I'm not worthy plus it'll get you nowhere. There better be a link to this product so I can find how much it weighs myself or you can go to the hell. I'm not the bouncer there... I don't admit entrance but I read its real.
Sorry, but you are not demonstrating the proper use of the jig. You do not remove the knife from the plunge guide/clamp and reinsert when moving to the second side. You clamp the knife to the plunge guide/clamp with the 2 cap screws and use the large knob to hold the knife and guide in place. When done with one side you leave the knife clamped up & unscrew the large knob, flip the knife around and reinstall the large knob. That way you have the exact same angle of the knife for both sides. Give it a try.
I mean, a jig is a crutch, unless it’s being used to replicate the same process numerous times. Custom or single process parts should really be ground by feel. The more you do the better you’ll get. Using this “jig” will prevent the user from ever becoming a true bladesmith. Just my two cents, and I make handmade knives. Not a lot of them, but they’re handmade.
Watching your channel right now reminds me of when I was watching (Mike) Gavko and Tuffthumbz. Like they were dudes that started collecting and then started making their own knives. Back when they were just starting it was pretty simple stuff. A cheap bench grinder, ect. Then slowly and slowly they started getting progressively more into it. I wouldn't be surprised if 5 years from now you'll be showing us your new workshop area and your new milling machine and talking fondly about how you use to use a simple angled jig to grind knife bevels years ago.
Awesome looking jig! I really like the barrel adjustment. Seems easier than the single screw on the angle iron versions (I use the angle iron version myself).
Is the angle iron jig just an L shaped vice clamp & screw for angle control?
I have seen these around but never really knew what they were called.
I made a jig last week, but I'm regretting some of my design choices now. Thanks for the straight forward review!
Best jig i've ever seen!
Alex- Glad to see the shop is growing. Hope you and the family are well!!
Thanks man! You as well!👊
Well he selled his house
Alex, I have an idea for the extra light-weight knife. You should try to use circular sawblade as material of the knifeblank. It might looks stupid, but it is very flexible and doesn't need heat treath.
Give it a try.
Great video brother. I’m thinking of doing a “making a bevel jig” video. Great review. I’ll check out white bone for inspiration.
Hey man I just wanted to thank you for all of your videos on sharpening technique.
'Really helped me HONE my skills.
Pun very much intended.
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I was searching an easy jig to make (but not too simplistic)
And i think i’m going to try to make one a bit like this
Thank you this video helped me
The angle adjuster, does the knurling also contact the work-rest? As in, if you're sliding it back and forth constantly, is the knurling scratching up the work-rest? I happen to use aluminum work rest to protect my knives with using the push stick method and wonder if this jig would chew it up faster than normal.
Yeah it does touch the work rest and it would probably be a problem if your using aluminum. Im sure they would make one without the knurling if you wanted.
Na man I got same jig.. Tighten both Allen keys first onto blade as a clamp put it in holder and do up big knob. To do other side just undo the big knob ONLY and take knife and bracket out and turn it around. Thats why there's a threaded hole on the other side for the BIG KNOB.. You only do Allen key bolts once to keep plunge lines correct like a file guide . Cheers!
Welcome back Man! We all wait for your come-back. Your new shop looks nice. Hope you show us a big, complicated project, that you're planning... I know you got one...
Best regrats from left handed lathe operator from KZ.
Any chance you could do a video on the angel the jig should be set to for the different types of grind
Knifes are awesome, sharpening knifes is awesome, your vids are awesome
Good to see ya back. Quality review as ever. Keep up the good work. 😊
Looks great, company stopped making them for the moment.
Nice. Have you seen the liquid cooled platens? Thinking about building one.
Yeah, for big stuff or grinding flats im sure they would be a big help!
It seems that you could use the vertical clamping piece as a plunge line jig.
Glad to see a new video!
I've been freehanding for a long time grind lines never turn out right I started only doing full flat grinds. I never thought about it being the belts.
A new fresh belt is the best fix for funky grind lines. 😀
I just use a couple pieces squared off mild steel flat bar with holes drilled in them with a couple bolts and nuts. Tighten it down and you can get perfect plunge lines. I freehand and have a knack for it, but I use the little bars because it just makes life simple. It's like a file guide, takes 2 minutes to make a new one if I need to, and doesn't cost a crap load of money!
Since you have issues with fitting on the table what is the dimension of the maximum depth?
I always enjoy your presentation my friend...
Nice review/explanation of the jig. Looks nice headed over and read about some more. Thx
I have always done all my knives freehand, but I have now got so many cuts and grinding scars on my fingers and hands that I'm thinking maybe I should get a jig to save my hands from getting their own primary bevel put on them.
Do they ship to the UK?
Im sure they would. Would probably be extra shipping though.
Can you tell me where you bought the jig from
Thanxs for the Update!!!😎
Super nice
Cool. Very clever design. Thanks for the review, Alex. Seems to me that if you clamp at the plunge line and use the clamp as a plunge line guide, you can change the knob to the other side and get perfect symmetry in both plunge line and bevel. The way you're using it, the plunge line and bevel is an eyeball thing. The true utility of the jig is being missed entirely. Once you take the knife out of the clamp and turn it around, your precision in symmetry is gone. That's why the designer has threads in the center hole on both sides of the clamp, I'm pretty sure. Use the cap screws to secure your blade at the plunge line, grind side one, then move the knob to the other side of the clamp to perfectly repeat on side two what you did on side one. Don't take the knife out right in the middle, leave it in the clamp, and move the knob to the other side. IMHO...
The clamp cant be used as a guide. The belt will chew through it in a second if used as a guide. You would need a carbide guide for that. The jig was designed to be used in that manner, however, during the course of making knives the knife has to be removed a handful of times from the guide. It can be used as a quick side to side but to clamp it once and be done isnt the way i do things. I have a number of videos on why this is the case.
@@OUTDOORS55 I get it, you said as much in your video. That's how you do it. A:OK. It's only a suggestion for a more efficient use of this excellent tool. Like most of us, I have several plunge line guides, and they are all made from mild steel. They rarely get a scratch, because they ride on the side of the platen. The Whiteboneknives jig seems perfectly capable of serving in the manner I propose. Perhaps you could give it a try? Maybe you will like using it as suggested. Or, you could send one to me and I'll try it and report back to you...
Good tools matter most in the hands of craftspersons who know what they are doing and why.
Your camera quality is flipping insane man. You always do a pretty good job editing and putting your videos together.
Thanks my friend!👍👊
You are the one!!!!!
Thank you
What would be the largest blade length that you could grind using this jig?
I think its up to how comfortable you feel with the jig. You could do a 10" blade length with it but is sort of awkward. Of course you could do as long as you want but it puts the jig farther away. Theres not really a hard limit.
@@OUTDOORS55 the length you can do has more to do with the size if your tool rest than the jig itself, I have done a 14" bowie with mine but I clamped a 1/4" x 4" x 30" Aluminum plate onto the top of my tool rest to effectively give me a 30" wide tool rest.
Alex, why do you file a notch at the base of the cutting edge on some knifes?
Those notches are called a 'choil' and some makers/customers like them as a starting/stopping point for sharpening. I dislike choils because I use my knives in the field, and those darn notches get snagged up on any animal you may be field dressing!
Thank you for another excellent video Alex. The jig appears very well designed and manufactured. So QQ: I don’t recall, but how are you finding/ marking centerline of your blade stock (CL of spine)?
Where do u get one
Nice overview Alex, thanks.
What specific jig was this one I couldn’t understand what brand it was
Yyyyeeeeesssssss new vid. Thanks for the video, with being so busy.
I would really like to buy one of your Bushcraft and chopper knives ...
Nice review, good to see you again bro
Nice jig, I think I'll make one.
Another bad ass informational video!
I'm looking into purching a jig and sander to sharpen knives but unfortunately money is an issue, what is the price on this jig?
Its $200+ its a hand made piece and will last forever. Buy once cry once🙂
@@OUTDOORS55 thanks for the reply
Is the clamp SS or carbide?
I have seen so manz bevel jig vids and i still think that the one i made myselfe is the best jig out there unmatched even by the 400$+jigs
All those jigs have some problems and none of them is the "perfekt" one. The barrel style high adjustment on this one is just not exact enough for very small adjustments and unscrew the knive everytime you want to switch sides is a pain in the butt because you have to find the exact same position everytime you switch sides back again.
If i ever make another one im gona film it and put it on yt.
Great video. My question is: why are some content providers not willing to share the cost of products they are reviewing?
Because cost changes over time. Once said in a video its there forever.
Hello. I bought one and have trouble with a consistent bevel . Any tips to help?
Make sure you work rest is perfectly square to your platen as well as perfectly smooth. Thats the down fall of jigs. they dont do well if everything isn't perfect to each other. They also still take practice to get right.
@@OUTDOORS55 does it matter whether you put the blade high up in the gij or low as as you keep same angle?
Link to purchase?
You can make one ,with some changes.....its very easy, with some cheap tools. I made all my staff for knife making. Its easy, its not like proffesional tools.....but its ok for me.
Alex hope you well you and your familly.......
Super nice
Great vid as always 🤘
Are you going to start making production knives at some point?
Not sure...at this point im not sure how id get it off the ground without a very large initial investment. Maybe one day 🤷♂️🙂
@@OUTDOORS55 You start small. Check out palmetto blades [ local bladesmith in SC ] on facebook. He does his knives in a shop about your size.
"Which one to buy" dude i can't find another one to buy online aff these diy flooded everything !!
Hola, como conseguir un biselador como ese ?
do you sell knives and if so how to buy one?
I do, but dont have any available at this time. When i do they will be posted on Instagram @alexgarland_outdoors55. Thanks for the interest!
Rusting metaldust will make the jig rust in short time as well
They are sold out 😢😢😢
Grow grow grow
have one for years.its great made lot of knives this i great you dont like it ill buy it im starting another shop...let knife makers get in and grind......i use a floor board to make largerplatform....w,smith i need a large belt grinder anyone help ill review pleasehelp walt
Time to start free hand grinding mate !! Jigs are slow and you have no feeling for you grind and blade
I mainly use jigs for scandi grinds so i can hit the exact bevel angle i want.🙂
If there was a handle on the knife, it wouldn't sit properly in the tool you made
Thats not what its meant for.
@@OUTDOORS55 You could not understand my question, winner.
Good grief that thing is as outa the park design wise as well as cost wise. $237.50....phfeeew! Let me know when they make one a little lighter in both design and cost. Ya know something around say, $60.
Just the materials cost more than $60.
50 knives? And we can't buy one ☹️
Some were prototypes and whatnot. 🙂 hopefully soon ill have some more stuff for sale😀
@@OUTDOORS55 nice....and remember I have dibs on the file knife, will definitely buy one from you.
What a fail the handles not being vertical
Mine os good too. I've used woodprix handbooks and build it with no problems.
Looks like a God damn door hinge.. 😂
Also that fuckin thing needs an angle indicator. Possible at the bottom on the face of that cylinder. Surely if they can engineer this piece of shit, surely they can add that on the next over priced wallet drainer. Thnx
An angle indicator is not needed. Angles can be checked with other tools if needed. It would add cost as well. Sounds like your a tire kicker anyway🤷♂️
@@OUTDOORS55 you'd just buy a fkn vehicle without checking first? Sounds like you're a fucking nieve moron. 😂
$237.50 or £191 is a high price to pay for this grinding jig.
I dont think so. Its made by hand just like a custom knife is. Its built to last and will easily pay for itself.
OUTDOORS55 with respect as an Engineer for the last 35 years that is not value for money.
@@TheMrWoodsman so if I have you make me one of these, how much would it be?
First
Admitting you're lazy multiple times in your video is like repenting. Since I'm not the creator I'm not worthy plus it'll get you nowhere. There better be a link to this product so I can find how much it weighs myself or you can go to the hell. I'm not the bouncer there... I don't admit entrance but I read its real.
Your comment doesn't even make sense. Theres no subject, or reference as to what your talking about.
fist
You're shilling way too hard for this overpriced piece of shit just because you got it for free.
Whatever you say. Ive used it everyday since i got it. Nothing i say would have changed your mind anyway 🤣
Sorry, but you are not demonstrating the proper use of the jig. You do not remove the knife from the plunge guide/clamp and reinsert when moving to the second side. You clamp the knife to the plunge guide/clamp with the 2 cap screws and use the large knob to hold the knife and guide in place. When done with one side you leave the knife clamped up & unscrew the large knob, flip the knife around and reinstall the large knob. That way you have the exact same angle of the knife for both sides. Give it a try.
I mention that in the video
This is correct sir!
What’s the use of the jig? You can learn nothing using this item.
Not sure I understand 🤔
I mean, a jig is a crutch, unless it’s being used to replicate the same process numerous times. Custom or single process parts should really be ground by feel. The more you do the better you’ll get. Using this “jig” will prevent the user from ever becoming a true bladesmith. Just my two cents, and I make handmade knives. Not a lot of them, but they’re handmade.