Bought a new Ruger 10/22 in Nov 2024. Had between 5.8 Lbs and 6.4 Lbs depending where you put the meter when pulling. Used a fine grit whetstone to lightly hone the hammer and sear, added "TriggerShim" shim packs and got down to 3.8 Lbs. Replaced the factory hammer and sear with a matched Power Custom hammer & adjustable sear and a Wolf Lighter trigger spring. Now at 2.1 Lb and 1.75 Lbs trigger pull. Almost no pre travel and the Power Custom trigger let me adjust the post travel too. VERY crisp but controllable.
If you are not tearing anything up you aren't doing anything. Failure is just the next door to opportunity. Got the message and looking forward to it greatly. Rock on!
Did the exact grind to . multiple friends 10/22's. I've shot thousands of rounds with my own that I've ground hammer and sear with no problems whatsoever. So much more fun and accurate to shoot with a nice trigger pull. Good, descriptive, illustrated video
I really like your videos and have learned a lot. I have ruined several hammers and sears on several different 10/22s over the years, with some occasional success. I finally got too old to fool with it and just bought the Volquartson kit for my most recently purchased, Anniversary model. Perfectly happy with the under-3 lb. trigger and the small baggie of accumulated ruined hammers and sears! Continue the good work
Great video! I bought the full AGI trigger video. I found it well worth the price. Another thing I like to do when working on an unfamiliar type of trigger is to take a chunk of aluminum or Delrin and drill holes with the same size and spacing as the trigger and sear pin holes in the firearm to use as an alignment and test jig. I have a 10-8 bench block with holes in the back for 10/22, Mark III, Browning Buck Mark, and Beretta 92. That way I don't have to reassemble whatever gun I'm working on to see if my modifications made things better or worse. I use a cheap digital microscope (~$60 to $130 with built-in LCD screen on Amazon) to examine the hammer and sear engagement on whatever test jig I cobbled together and make sure I've stoned them straight. I have quite a collection of pieces that I've taken too much off of.
Thanks Brad! How close was I to the video? Hopefully not too far off 🤣 Good suggestion on the delrin. I’m assuming you used the trigger pin holes to locate?
I have their AR-15 trigger video, although they do have one specific to the 10/22. Regardless, the video has a lot of good information that is applicable to many different trigger systems in general, including the 10/22. You did well in following the rules for a safe trigger and in discovering the magic of the relief angle. As you found out the hard way, just like I did, the need to keep all surfaces straight and square is critical to consistent results. For me, that's where optical magnification comes in handy. Yes, for making trigger jig blocks, I use a transfer punch or sharpened trigger and sear pins to mark through the gun. If the sides of the gun are flat you can use it as a jig by assembling the trigger and sear on the outside.
@bradharris7230 Great tips for the jig. Maybe someday I’ll get a magnifier that has a screen so we can all look at it at the same time. Another item to put on the list! 🤣
On my Ruger American Rimfire I tinkered myself, with help of YT, with the bolt and trigger. I’ve got the trigger now on +/- 500 gr. (1 pound), and it’s crisp like an angel. I put shivs to take out the wobbling of the trigger. Then I put in another spring, although the trigger pressure is adjustable I couldn’t get it below 1,5 kg (3 pounds). I checked with an armor smith if it was still safe and it is. For the bolt and other parts I did a lot of polishing, and it’s smooth.
You should never do a "trigger job" with mim parts, many of them are only hardened on the surfaces, so once you grind it down your into soft material, which will wear very fast.
Bought a new Ruger 10/22 in Nov 2024. Had between 5.8 Lbs and 6.4 Lbs depending where you put the meter when pulling. Used a fine grit whetstone to lightly hone the hammer and sear, added "TriggerShim" shim packs and got down to 3.8 Lbs. Replaced the factory hammer and sear with a matched Power Custom hammer & adjustable sear and a Wolf Lighter trigger spring. Now at 2.1 Lb and 1.75 Lbs trigger pull. Almost no pre travel and the Power Custom trigger let me adjust the post travel too. VERY crisp but controllable.
If you are not tearing anything up you aren't doing anything. Failure is just the next door to opportunity. Got the message and looking forward to it greatly. Rock on!
Did the exact grind to . multiple friends 10/22's. I've shot thousands of rounds with my own that I've ground hammer and sear with no problems whatsoever. So much more fun and accurate to shoot with a nice trigger pull. Good, descriptive, illustrated video
I really like your videos and have learned a lot. I have ruined several hammers and sears on several different 10/22s over the years, with some occasional success. I finally got too old to fool with it and just bought the Volquartson kit for my most recently purchased, Anniversary model. Perfectly happy with the under-3 lb. trigger and the small baggie of accumulated ruined hammers and sears! Continue the good work
They aren't ruined hammers. They're expensive fishing weights.
I stoned the hammer sear and then polished it with my bench polisher. Cut the stock pull at least half. Don't have a trigger scale. Happy with it now!
Nice!
Great video! I bought the full AGI trigger video. I found it well worth the price. Another thing I like to do when working on an unfamiliar type of trigger is to take a chunk of aluminum or Delrin and drill holes with the same size and spacing as the trigger and sear pin holes in the firearm to use as an alignment and test jig. I have a 10-8 bench block with holes in the back for 10/22, Mark III, Browning Buck Mark, and Beretta 92. That way I don't have to reassemble whatever gun I'm working on to see if my modifications made things better or worse. I use a cheap digital microscope (~$60 to $130 with built-in LCD screen on Amazon) to examine the hammer and sear engagement on whatever test jig I cobbled together and make sure I've stoned them straight. I have quite a collection of pieces that I've taken too much off of.
Thanks Brad! How close was I to the video? Hopefully not too far off 🤣 Good suggestion on the delrin. I’m assuming you used the trigger pin holes to locate?
I have their AR-15 trigger video, although they do have one specific to the 10/22. Regardless, the video has a lot of good information that is applicable to many different trigger systems in general, including the 10/22. You did well in following the rules for a safe trigger and in discovering the magic of the relief angle. As you found out the hard way, just like I did, the need to keep all surfaces straight and square is critical to consistent results. For me, that's where optical magnification comes in handy.
Yes, for making trigger jig blocks, I use a transfer punch or sharpened trigger and sear pins to mark through the gun. If the sides of the gun are flat you can use it as a jig by assembling the trigger and sear on the outside.
@bradharris7230 Great tips for the jig. Maybe someday I’ll get a magnifier that has a screen so we can all look at it at the same time. Another item to put on the list! 🤣
On my Ruger American Rimfire I tinkered myself, with help of YT, with the bolt and trigger.
I’ve got the trigger now on +/- 500 gr. (1 pound), and it’s crisp like an angel. I put shivs to take out the wobbling of the trigger. Then I put in another spring, although the trigger pressure is adjustable I couldn’t get it below 1,5 kg (3 pounds). I checked with an armor smith if it was still safe and it is.
For the bolt and other parts I did a lot of polishing, and it’s smooth.
There's nothing like tinkering with something and afterwards enjoying that improved feel
Really interested in adding more length....asking for a friend.
I’m working on it. For a friend as well…
Where did you get that big stone?
I got it from either Midway or Brownells. When I was looking for that type of stuff I remember that I had to order from multiple places
You should never do a "trigger job" with mim parts, many of them are only hardened on the surfaces, so once you grind it down your into soft material, which will wear very fast.
I never found any info on if they were only surface hardened. But I can’t say that really look that hard either…
It might be a 2 parter…just to torment you a bit 🤣
Just ask tech help at Brownells, they will tell you like they told me.
Finally someone who shows details so your understanding what your doing.
@patrickdirckx8300 I try to make these as easy to understand as possible. Whether it’s not to do what I just did or it is. I appreciate you watching!