Well, thanks... Happy that I was of some help... Sorry for the delayed response as I actually neglected to check my comments... Shame on me I guess... Thanks for the comment.
Thumbs up for what must be the most detailed teardown and diagnostic of these marvelously handy little 2-stroke fussbucket gensets on TH-cam. It doesn't help me solve the no-start or quickly-dying low-spark issue on one of mine, but deserves acknowledgement all the same. With my sickly StormCat about a year ago its engine intermittently started dying after a minute or three of startup, though sometimes it would run just fine for hours. Gradually though it got worse, until it wouldn't start at all. I tried a factory fresh Autolite 64 sparkplug and other known good NGK ones, then a fresh coil (with its new spark plug lead), tried disconnecting and also jumping the engine on-off switch, and even tried _another_ fresh coil, suspecting the replacement might have been faulty. With the spark plug out and held against the engine case I now get either no spark or one so feeble as to be only barely visible, like Tinkerbell's farts. It may start and run for a few seconds, but very soon stalls. On other fronts, fuel delivery seems fine, flowing from the petcock/fuel tap well enough. I run exclusively ethanol-free fuel in it and _always_ run the carb dry to shut it down, so I really doubt a fuel issue is the culprit, and can totally rule out any sort of ethanol-snot cloggery that typically sidelines these little rigs. I'm pretty certain mine's woes are all due to a poor spark issue, but just don't really know where to go from here to resolve it. I can confirm that the green and black low tension (?) leads to the coil have _some_ DC voltage--maybe 5 VDC at best, but apart from that I'm now stumped. I know I'm a bit late to the party, but any advice out there?
Sorry that you are having troubles with your Stormcat. As to the low spark... have you removed the flywheel and checked the plate under it? The flywheel is under the pull start rope. Inside is a device designed to trigger the spark. I have seen them become loose and show a weak spark. Also heard of a foreign metalic particle finding its way in there causing the trigger to be unseen because it is always triggered. The coil needs to have power flowing into it bulid energy intensity then, when triggered, it releases the energy built up resulting in a spark looking for a place to go. Hence the spark plug. That is where I would start for spark issues and be sure to check the wiring. It can break internally due to fatigue. (Like bending a coat hanger back and forth until if finally breaks. Wire can so the same but is hidden within the plastic covering. ) Pull the wire from both ends to see if it comes apart or stretches. If spark is not the fault, check to see if there is any compression in the cylinder. Remember, fuel, spark and compression as well as air flow are needed to run an internal combustion engine. Hope this helps.
@@bobamos3628 Thanks! My hunch is you're right. Compression seems fine, and its decent fuel flow from the tap, intermittent running and my consistent use of non-ethanol fuel to prevent "cloggery" leads me to believe the fuel system and carburation's probably OK too. Yet its ultra-weak spark despite not one but two coil replacements leads me to concur with you that a look around the flywheel sensor's in order.
@@BilgemasterBill Remember that fuel flow to the carb may be good but if the jets are plugged in any way that fue will not flow and the unit will stall. You did say tat you run the carb dry before shut down.I do the same and that has worked well so probably not fuel. Good luck.
Nice work. I repair generators as a business. I’ve come across poor soldering connections, particularly with the Chinese gensets. Yes, they often used copper clad aluminum wire, or poor quality copper wire. It amazes me how often these gensets loose their field, sometimes after only a few months of non use. These are a lot of fun to work on, and parts are very inexpensive.
I could have used your mind a few weeks back... LOL.. I am a retired automotive electrical specialist and worked on computer controlled vehicles so repairing this should have been easy. It was, sort of anyway. It isn't easy going from repairing and thinking computer vehicles to primitive generators. But it was real fun getting this done. Actually, more satisfying than a tough "check engine" light repair. Thanks for the comments.
I agree, John. Do this for a hobby, as i'm retired. Garage is full of '' stuff ''. I noticed, the same thing with chinese gens. As well as cheap aluminim wire; they should make better coil connections, to those brushes. I may use JB weld, to secure them in place, after silver soldering them with a good mechanical connection. They also use, pot metal for fuel petcocks; went to replace one, and the lock- nut broke into 3 pieces, wasn't even tight yet. Anyway, good luck !
Thank you Sir...... I cannot tell you how long, how many test, and glad i watched the very end, i just have a feeling, i need to flash my new Capacitor!!!
Thanks, Mr. Amos. i agree with the angle grinder; alot safer and better control, when engine starts. Using a 12 volt battery, is usually better, as it gives the rotor a good dose, of magnetism.
Thanks for this. Mine stopped producing power after it ran out of gas under load. All it needed was a 12V battery to the outlet for a second, while running (I used a very worn motorcycle starting battery). Not the most obvious fix. Oddly, next time it ran out of gas under load, nothing bad happened.
I have one of these that runs fine but I found the capacitor to be defective. I replaced the capacitor and started it up. I then plugged a drill into it. The drill then ran for a moment and shut off. I checked the breaker that wasn’t tripped! I haven’t taken it apart yet but I have a feeling that something is frying the capacitor? If the capacitor is fried again what should I look for? Thanks
Well, first you need to determine if it is, indeed, a burned out capacitor. If it is, looks for physical evidence of damage to the capacitor. Most replacement caps are made in China and I have seen a capacitor that was manufactured poorly and failed when placed in service. To test the capacitor, use a screwdriver and short across the terminals and look for a spark. If none recharge the capacitor with a battery. Connect one side of the battery to the cap and momentarily touch the other side of the battery to the other side of the cap. A spark should happen. Then short the capacitor with the screwdriver and look for the spark as it discharges. Be very careful not to harm yourself. I cannot be accountable for any damages that might occur to yourself or the generator. ( I just need to post that as protection for myself. Some people just don't mix well with electricity.) Good luck.
Hi Bob,I flashed mine and it did work but only gave power for a few seconds then stopped againg,seems like its not keeping a charge.Should I flash for a longer time witth power pack?
Gee, I wonder why it is not holding a charge? Re-flashing might work. Worth a try. As to longer holding the flash, It should not need that. They charge instantly. Either the capacitor is defective and loses charge internally or there is something discharging it like you do when the two terminals are shorted together. But, there could be something else within the generator that is causing the thing to stop outputting power. Not having the generator in front of me it is difficult to say as to the possible cause. If the unit was operating while charging then stopped while in operation I'd think that it might be something that is moving. Mine was caused by the rotor moving and the wire losing connection. I would bet that the capacitor is holding a charge and something else is causing the failure. If you short circuit the capacitor and there is a "pop" then it is holding the charge. Re-flash to restore the charge. If there is no "pop" as you short out the terminals then it is not holding the charge. That should isolate the possibility of a capacitor issue. Be very careful discharging that capacitor. If you do try to discharge it, do so at your own risk. Hope that you can sort it all out.
Generator runs no output, changed 12uf capacitor still no joy, having watched YT video i plugged in an old electric drill to the generator while running, then connected the drill chuck to chuck to my cordless drill and spun it in reverse. This re-energised the generators magnetic field magnets and it came back to life and ran the electric drill.
the world could use a few more Bob's if you asked me thanks man videos really cool and kind of need understanding some of the characteristics of this generator
I have one of these generators and the capacitor had an obvious melt down. I've ordered another CBB61. I'm not that experienced with generators, however, should I assume the failure was at the capacitor or should I be looking at components upstream that might have caused this?
Well, when any part has a real "melt down" that is visible, I always suspect some other reason. Without seeing the part and where it melted it would be difficult to say. First thing that I would do is inspect the two connectors on the ends. Are they also burned. If so, they may be loose on the terminal. A loose connection will create resistance and resistance creates heat. So, if that is the case, replace both terminal ends and the capacitor. Then run the generator with the face hanging loose. Feel the resistor for heat. If it is hot there is something wrong that is causing this heat. Generally, too much current flowing through the condenser. A condenser is made up of alternating thin sheets of metal with an insulator between them. There are MANY of these sheets sandwiched into the condenser. It is not unusual for an internal leak to develop causing a short circuit inside the condenser resulting in a melt down. The condenser is supposed to supply a stored electrical charge that helps get the charge going. Think of a condenser as a sort of storage battery. By the way, these condensers are not polarity sensitive. They will fit with the two wires on any side and will not be seen as reversed. Hope this is helpful. Good luck and thanks for writing.
First day useing my small gator i was triming hedges and cut the extension cord still runs only little out put.replaced the reset button and regulator no change.
Tough to say what went wrong but since the cord was cut while the unit was outputting power, the breaker has some lag time before it opens the circuit. I am wondering if you burned some wire and had it break resulting in an open circuit. If it were me I would open thins up and look for evidence of something burned/discoloured or a wire that looks cut but really is burned out. The cute will cause the amperage to increase to maximum and smaller wires are not meant to carry that much amperage and will work like a fuse and open circuit. If you have a multimeter, use it to check continuity on the various wires. Good luck...
Hello from the Uk. Those magnets are to excite the field windings, as you tried to do with the drill and grinder. It also looks like the dreaded lead free solder strikes again. I have read that the number of electronic joint failures has gone up by a factor of 9 since it was stupidly introduced. I can understand using it where it comes into contact with humans but not buried on a printed circuit board or generator. I have used one of these Chinese ones for 7 years - and it still works fine with the original spark plug. Do be careful with the pull cord, make sure it's properly engaged before pulling hard.
Yep, that was defenately not a lead solder. I avoid that stuff whenever possible. As a matter of fact, when it first came out I gave it a go. Just one try and into the dust bin it went. For 47 years I was an automotive electrical specialist and only used what worked and that lead free trash is just that. Trash. I probably will not get a lot of use out of this but it is there if needed. I run it every six months or so just to keep it fresh. You are so correct about that pull cord. Plastic paul that engages the engine is another dumb thing that should not have been done. I always take the slack out then pull. Mine has no 12 volt output but I would not use it if it had it anyway. Hey, thanks for writing.
The gen side crank seal popped out on one of mine, it's a 20x30x7 oil seal. That makes for a huge crankcase air-leak, so it wouldn't start (of course) This was an earlier model, I don't think it was the correct material for gasoline/oil. I haven't had any problem (yet) with the crank seal under the flywheel but I think it's the same size. When adjusting the engine governor speed, I use a frequency meter shooting for 60Hz at about half load, using a 500Watt incandescent shop lamp.
@@bobamos3628 Poor fit, I think they drove it in slightly crooked and crushed it. The problem never occured until I overloaded the generator that's when pressure was great enough to pop the seal out. Temporarily, I reached it with a long screwdriver and pushed it back in place, not a very tight fit considering I could push it into position. I'll be replacing the seal.
Good job, wish we had the same model made in America to show the comparison on soldering LOL. I'm sure that's probably the problem with mine. But I know how to test now thank you.
Hello Bob, very good video ! Mine has a low voltage issue and I tried replacing and flashing the capacitor to no avail. Could it be the resistor+diode inside? they look in great shape and I am hesitant to take them apart... any hint on how to diagnose the resistor+diode in place? thanks
UPDATE: I took apart the "rectifier" which consisted of 2 NI5408 diodes and 1 resistor, all connected in parallel (why 2 diodes in parallel?). One diode was fried, I simply removed it and kept the other good one in place. All good now. NB: it is a no-name made-in-china brand.
Not sure why the two diodes/rectifiers but if one was shorted as yours probably was it would cause the condition you experienced. Anyway, glad that you solved the problem.
13:00 time. There are 2 diodes, 2 resistors on rotor; each coil has a resistor and a black diode; rated probably 8 amps or so. Check those diodes, may be open, or worse. (AC to DC conversion, same as battery charger.)
Yes there are. i found it easier to replace the resistors than testing but the diodes were a little tougher to get to so I just left them after they tested good. My failure was one of the wires from the stator coil. These use a non solder material to connect them.
@@petersack5074 Yep, they use a product that is sort like epoxy but can carry electrical current. Crazy stuff.. It is called "Wire Glue". www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z9H7ZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There is only one resistor and one diode in my generator. The coils are connected in series with each other. I wonder how many ohm resistor should I put, can you help me? (note my generator is 220v 50hz)
@@kaangoncu2167 Looks like they split the circits for 110 volts. Your 220 volts most likely wire it this way. Sort of like a 12 volt vs 24 volt batteries. 2-12 volt batteries run paralellel gives you 12 volts. 2-12 volt batteries in series gives you 24 volts. Same concept I would think.
Hi Bob, new to this sort of stuff, I can find this exact ccb1 11uF 300vac but ranging anywhere from $30-50, i have found lots that are a little different for much cheaper. Could a 12 or 10uF 350vac capacitor work just as well for example. If not what is the important thing I need to look for as the original 1 in the unit is 11uF 300vac and the 1 in your link is 11uF 450vac. Thanks for any help.
You will be fine with something close in the range for a condensor/capacitor. (Same thing different name) I picked mine up for about $10 dollars give or take a few bucks. I do not recall exctly now. It's old history.. Amazon and eBay have them. I recently picked up one of a different design for my father-in-law's generator and it was $7 and change. Thanks for writing. Chris, I saw that I left a link in another post. Here is that capacitor. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VXYDHVT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 2cycle generator from Harbor freight with 800 to 900W. Would you have information on setting the timing of the generator I have had a problem on mine, which I believe is the timing. It jerks the starter cable out of my hand when starting. It may be trying to fire be it is supposed to. Thanks! Regards, Robert Fern
Sorry, I haven't a clue on the agility to change the timing of the spark on these as it has never been an issue for me and the last time I had one open was quite some time ago. I will look and see if I see a way.
Just got one for free got it running. Hooked up a 4.5A grinder cut 1/4 into a log and it stopped putting out power. Breaker does nothing. Any ideas before it's trashed?
Without having the unit in front of me it is difficult to say. I would try doing a direct flashing of the capacitor. Look in my video list, I did a video on direct flashing of the capacitor. Sometimes the drill method does not work. Hope this helps.
Gee, I wish that I could tell you but I have no idea their rating. I did see a wiring diagram for it. But am away from my computer on a trip. I should be home early next week and if I can remember I will see if I can find it.
Wish that Icould answe that for you. If the drill started running I would think that the generator had been "excited" and the capacitor was charged. But there is the possibility of an internal fault in the Cap. that might cause a drop out. I did a video on charging the Cap. directly. Give that a try and see if it helps. ALso, there could be any number of things that might cause the generator to stop charging. First thing in my mind would be moving parts followed by weak connections that drop out once a load start to flow. Wish I could tell you more but without the unit in front of me all I can do is guess.. Good luck.
How I solder copper clad aluminum enamel wire? as well as copper copper enamel wire. Knowing the enamel will soften under solder melting temperature, once soften can be rubbed off/open exposing copper clad surface. Use liberally of flux (from flux core solder) to engulf / protect the enamel wire to avoid chances for exposure of clad to oxygen in the air, otherwise we’d accidentally rub and oxidize the thin copper cad. This process takes time and patient. If all else fail clean the CCA wire and Vaseline coat it then crimp a spade terminal to reconnect the broken junction.
@@bobamos3628 OK first let me organize myself with materials enough to make some video. Could you subscribe my channel and activate the bell? That is a good way to keep track of new video.
Great video thank you for sharing. I have the same problem with mine , the dialed flew out destroying the fan , could you tell me or anyone tell me what is that part called
As far as the diodes and resistors, couldn't tell the direction of the diodes on each side? Can't find schematic of armature! Both sides of mine has deteriorated!
I do not think that their are any schematics around. At least I never found one. As to direction of the diode. If one went bad I would imagine the second would be fine. I would test it for direction of flow and then duplicate that on the bad one...
Hello, I would be very happy if you could help me. I can't get voltage from my generator as in the video. When I got the rotor, I saw that the resistor and the diode were burnt out, so I couldn't see or read the colors of the resistor. and my generator has only one resistor and diode, not two like yours. I decided to install a new resistor and diode, how many ohm resistor should I use? can you help me or someone tell me how many ohms Is it realistic to use resistors?(also my generator is a 220v 50hz generator the mains here is 220v 50hz😃)
I think that I said what it was in the video. I do not recall at the moment. But.... seeing as yours is carrying all of the loadon one resistor it may not be the same as my 110 voltunit was.
Hi Bob, I have the same problem with a HF Tailgator did you get 120v at the plug if you put 12v dc to the condenser? I do... Seems if I excite the field I get power.. Thanks !
After repairing the rotor fault and replacing the capacitor I direct flashed the capacitor. I did a video on doing the flashing. Look in the video listing for it..
Hi, so i have the tailgator version of this generator, i tested the leads coming from the capacitor and i'm only getting 0.11 to 0.20 ac volts, and i have resistance from the 110 lead. so.. everything beyond that is checking out.. i took the rotor out like you did and checked everything over.. it had a couple nicks in it but all in all it looked really good. i put it back together and still the same issue. i replaced the cap and nothing there aswell. Any ideas?
Did you flash the new capacitor? They need to have a charge in it in order to start the charge process. I did anothe rvideo on the flash process. Here is a link to that video. What you are showing is exactly what a loss of stored power shows. th-cam.com/video/kh3IvlJL3TQ/w-d-xo.html
@@bobamos3628 yes sir, I sure did. I had my brother help me and we tried to jump it. When I got the unit given to me it had the circuit breaker removed and a couple random bolts missing here is a video on the readings I got. streamable.com/lw6ckx
@@HunterTalksWeather Well, while you had it opened, did you measure the resistors and check that the diode had current flow in only one direction? You will need to isolate them to check it and will need the wire glue to reinstall them. Only remove one end to check. Also, check for contenuity of each of the coils of wire on the armature. Make sure that there is not continuity to the rotor framing. Do the same for the outer coils. It is difficult to impossible to diagnose without the unit in front of me but hopefully you will be able to find the fault. Remember that mine checked good on that rotor until a probed around and found a broken with. It is a very fine wire and difficult to work with bt, in my case, had to be worked with. Good luck
Excellent video mate. I've got one on these (it's branded a power craft 720 I think it's 650w 240v) that is not giving out any power on either the 240v or the 12v. I've just taken it apart to inspect the windings in mine, as they all meter out fine with continuity. Slightly differently made to yours, different diodes and resistors I think. I'm yet to cut and test them as they'd soldered them under a bit of plastic so I'd have to cut them off the copper to resolder so I'm hesitant. I think I might be dealing with a bad cap. Unfortunately my crappy multimeter is only half working, so I can't trust what it's telling me. But the cap looks old. It's a 15uf and I had a 12uf from a dehumidifier I took apart. Do you think that would work? I did try it but nothing worked. I am yet to try the 12v across the cap whilst it's running yet. Does it have to be running for that to work, can I put 12v into the cap when it's not running, and then install?
First, you do not need to have it running to "flash" the capacitor. It also does not matter the polarity. I always flash them while connested to the circuit. A question: I had someone asking about their rotor ony having a diode and resistor on one side while the other was run in series to the other. Mine is a 120 volt system and was wondering if they just split the rotor in half to achieve the half voltage of your 240 volt unit. Mine has no 12 volt output so not sure what is in that system as I have nothing to reference to.
Saludos desde Mexico, por ser en inglés no entiendo muy bien sobre el capacitor o condensador, tengo un generador como el del video que lo pusieron a trabajar pero no desconectaron el suministro de energía aunque en ese momento no había electricidad el generador dejó de funcionar y ahora solo entrega 50 v . no hay problemas con las bobinas, y el capacitor me da 11.9 mf ¿Debo cambiar el capacitor aunque me de una medida aceptable :?:
Folks, This is what was written... Greetings from Mexico, because it is in English I do not understand very well about the capacitor or capacitor, I have a generator like the one in the video that they put to work but they did not disconnect the power supply although at that time there was no electricity the generator stopped working and now it only delivers 50 v. no problems with the coils, and the capacitor gives me 11.9 mf Should I change the capacitor even if it gives me an acceptable measurement:?:
Al no tener el generador en mis manos, es difícil determinar qué está mal. El hecho de que tenga algo de voltaje indica que está funcionando hasta cierto punto. Sugeriría mirar en una bobina de campo que podría estar en cortocircuito y no permitir la salida de voltaje completo. También mire la armadura en busca de algún tipo de falla. Quizás un diodo. Eso requiere tomarlo aparte como tuve que hacer. Espero que esto sea útil.
Sorry for the delay. I don't seem to be receiving any notices on the video... I got it from Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VXYDHVT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good advice. The generator needs to reach a certain load level for it to respond and increase RPM as well as needing a certain RPM in order to work. So, the phone probably was not enough of a load for the generator to see but the drill certainly was. It responded to the drill and increased RPM and started an output but with too low an RPM it would not start an output and not charge the phone. Glad that you got it to work for you. Remember though, that this is not a clean output machine and the erattic output could damage sensitive devices.
All three of mine have always worked fine, the earliest of the three has a 12V battery charging feature which has a cable and clip leads which attach to the end frame for charging lead acid batteries. Anyway, I've only used these when power has gone out for more than a couple hours maybe once/year, if that.
I have another brand of generator but just wanted one of these because they look sort of cute. Got this one real cheap and decided to do this video of the repairs. Like you, I only use them when power has been out for a few hours. Took one camping once but way to loud for that.. Thanks for writing.
Glad to be of help. To tell you the truth, I never could get the drill thing to work but have seen it with others. Mine always seemed to have more issues. Again, glad it worked for you.
Ok Bob I went back over everything and it seams to check out but it has low voltage If I plug my drill into it it runs but I can stop it with my hand I did but a new capastaor in it could it be bad thanks Rodger
@@rodgeremery5691 The capacitor just triggers the system into action. If it is being triggered then it is most likely okay. Low output can come from a number of things. Too slow rotation of the rotor, a bad circuit in the stator is another. Remember that the system is a magnet (rotor) spinning withing coils of wire (stator). In this case, that spinning magnet breaks the field of the stator wiring. It goes from north to south and back again over and over. This causes AC current to flow withing the stator. How it all works....If you run electrical current through a wire it will have a magneting field around the wire. Also, if you run a magnetic field over a wire it will cause current to flow within. That is how these work. So, if the stator does not have enough wiring to flow current withing it will register as low. Voltage is one thing but amerage is another. Amperage is the amount of current flowing, or pressure, while voltage is the amount of energy available, or potential. Knowing which is absent would help lead you in the right direction. Make sure the generator rotor is spinning fast enough. Low engine speed or a slippage between the rotor and engine is possible. Check continuity of the stator windings and match the resistance ratngs. In other words, they should match closely. Also check the resistance ratings of the rotor circuits. Same here, must be close. Good luck..
Thank you so much I'm on I believe talking to you now when you plug something in and use it the motor always Revs up but it does not so I'm going to say it's the stator I'm going to work on it thank for your help and I will keep in touch to let you know the progress you have been a big help to me I appreciate it.
Good Demonstration Bob!!! I am surprised at the number of people not knowing that these need flashed..or can lose charge over time. If I am correct don't the magnets resist each creating magnetic field to drive the motor? We had an electric motor apart the other day at work and one of the other Techs was describing that a bit. Great video..very detail. Well done!!
Thanks Lee. It is surprising the number that do not realize this. What is even more interesting is the fact that I did not find a single video about flashing the Condenser/capacitor on this model. I was thinking the same on those magnets. My specialty was automotive electronics. You know computer operations and diagnostics. Was thinking the magnets were an aid to the magnetic field that drives these things.
Wonder how many of these $100 generators were sent to landfills that might have been repaired? The problem is finding someone to work on them. I have one of these generators and will bookmark this video. THANKS!
Funny, I thought the same thing more than once. Most failures are for no start and is generally a sticking float needle. Since they are so inexpensive they are just tossed on the rubbish heap. This one was well cared for and in perfect condition except that it did not charge. $20 is all I paid so others that are not so well cared for would be worth very little. I've seen them for free and as low as $5. Glad that I was able to help out.
@M J Low original cost items are never really worth making a business out of unless it is a quick fix. Those that do fix and sell really are doing it as a hobby of sorts or the sheer enjoyment. I too enjoy fixing anything. I am a retired automotive electrical and A/C specialist so fixing things is what I love doing. Some of what I fix are given to friends and family. Some I keep. If I kept everything I would need a bigger garage (Which I already could use..)
I was at a customer in la they do recycling of metals. S.a is the name part of ecology, in the back there was a pile of almost new harbor freight and other generators.
There is an adjustment screw above the pull starter. It may have silicone shoved into the head. Try adjusting this to up the speed and see what happens. Not too high though but it does need some engine speed to trigger the charge.
my 9 y/o stormcat stopped making power. found the capacitor all bulged. replaced. installed. started. didn't think i saw the lights on my circuit tester so shut down and prepared to "flash." upon restart unit was making power, no flashing necessary. fwiw
Great!! Flashing is not always needed. Mine had set for about a year with that wire broken and when I tried to restart it was needing flashing. But, I did actually discharge the capacitor and the generator did not self flash. Glad yours was an inexpensive repair.
It is actually called Wire Glue. It has been on for over a year now and is still working. But, I will be sure to keep an eye on it and if it fils at least I will know where to look. So, what did you find that lasts? Or did you not? Maybe someone reading this can help us... Thanks for the heads up.
@@bobamos3628 I used it to try to repair some Subaru speakers where the leads became detached from the coil. I haven't found another conductive glue... I've just gotten better yet at soldering lol.. I do notice now your packaging says "Improved" so maybe they addressed the issue I mention? I bought mine roughly 5 or so years ago. I have the little jar of glue but couldn't find the packaging to check it.. And I actually did have to repair a very similar issue on our work's Briggs & Stratton Storm Responder generator; it had been stored by the Jersey Shore for a while, then went through Hurrican Ida last year, so there was some chalky corrosion where the 2 halves of the winding were joined. Was difficult to get a clean solder joint because of residue of the wire coating but finally got it. Your explanations are very clear I must say. Thank you!
@@spettro9 This generator part required a non solder repair as the wire would not accept solder. As a professional auto electrical specialist soldering is a snap for me so the use of something like this is foreign to my way of performing repairs. So far it has held and I hope that it will continue. But if not it is no big deal as this is not my only generator. I guess only time will tell...
Well, I did check the voltage at the plug and at the input of the wiring on the back side.. Maybe I should have included that but it was, sort of, considered something normal to look at first. Thanks for the comment and hopefully someone will read your post and add that to their diagnostic procedure.
Really? Is yours the Strom Cat or one that looks like mine? I would have to see the circuitry to know why this is your case. I am assuming that it did operate at some time so it may be designed to only require a single diode and resistor. What I would be looking for would be the two rotor windings. I would be interested in knowing if they are two different circuits or are they tied together?
@@bobamos3628 yes I actually was able to repair it. It is indeed the very same one. Mine had only one diode and resistor. The resistor was a different value then yours so maybe that's why I only needed one
I’m having the same problem with mine, I have 1 diode and 1 resistor. I want to replace both and I have the diode part number. But I don’t know the value of the resistor. Do you know by chance ?
Not sure that I understand your question. If you are referring to my calling it a condenser, they are one in the same. Two names for the same item. Condenser is the old term as well as the automotive term. I am a retired automotive mechanic so condenser stuck with me.
Four years ago lesson . one of it kind. it explains almost everything i have searched for all these years. Great job
Glad it helped and thanks for the comment!
I love you sir! This is the video i have searched everywhere for.
Well, thanks... Happy that I was of some help... Sorry for the delayed response as I actually neglected to check my comments... Shame on me I guess... Thanks for the comment.
You are a wonderful teacher. You know, here you're dealing with problems mainly faced in the third world countries. Thanks.
Well, thank you for the kind words. I am happy that my videos are helping others.
Thumbs up for what must be the most detailed teardown and diagnostic of these marvelously handy little 2-stroke fussbucket gensets on TH-cam. It doesn't help me solve the no-start or quickly-dying low-spark issue on one of mine, but deserves acknowledgement all the same. With my sickly StormCat about a year ago its engine intermittently started dying after a minute or three of startup, though sometimes it would run just fine for hours. Gradually though it got worse, until it wouldn't start at all. I tried a factory fresh Autolite 64 sparkplug and other known good NGK ones, then a fresh coil (with its new spark plug lead), tried disconnecting and also jumping the engine on-off switch, and even tried _another_ fresh coil, suspecting the replacement might have been faulty. With the spark plug out and held against the engine case I now get either no spark or one so feeble as to be only barely visible, like Tinkerbell's farts. It may start and run for a few seconds, but very soon stalls. On other fronts, fuel delivery seems fine, flowing from the petcock/fuel tap well enough. I run exclusively ethanol-free fuel in it and _always_ run the carb dry to shut it down, so I really doubt a fuel issue is the culprit, and can totally rule out any sort of ethanol-snot cloggery that typically sidelines these little rigs. I'm pretty certain mine's woes are all due to a poor spark issue, but just don't really know where to go from here to resolve it. I can confirm that the green and black low tension (?) leads to the coil have _some_ DC voltage--maybe 5 VDC at best, but apart from that I'm now stumped. I know I'm a bit late to the party, but any advice out there?
Sorry that you are having troubles with your Stormcat. As to the low spark... have you removed the flywheel and checked the plate under it? The flywheel is under the pull start rope. Inside is a device designed to trigger the spark. I have seen them become loose and show a weak spark. Also heard of a foreign metalic particle finding its way in there causing the trigger to be unseen because it is always triggered. The coil needs to have power flowing into it bulid energy intensity then, when triggered, it releases the energy built up resulting in a spark looking for a place to go. Hence the spark plug. That is where I would start for spark issues and be sure to check the wiring. It can break internally due to fatigue. (Like bending a coat hanger back and forth until if finally breaks. Wire can so the same but is hidden within the plastic covering. ) Pull the wire from both ends to see if it comes apart or stretches.
If spark is not the fault, check to see if there is any compression in the cylinder. Remember, fuel, spark and compression as well as air flow are needed to run an internal combustion engine. Hope this helps.
@@bobamos3628 Thanks! My hunch is you're right. Compression seems fine, and its decent fuel flow from the tap, intermittent running and my consistent use of non-ethanol fuel to prevent "cloggery" leads me to believe the fuel system and carburation's probably OK too. Yet its ultra-weak spark despite not one but two coil replacements leads me to concur with you that a look around the flywheel sensor's in order.
@@BilgemasterBill Remember that fuel flow to the carb may be good but if the jets are plugged in any way that fue will not flow and the unit will stall. You did say tat you run the carb dry before shut down.I do the same and that has worked well so probably not fuel. Good luck.
@@bobamos3628 Indeed. That's how I always shut them down: turn off the fuel and let the carb run dry.
Nice work. I repair generators as a business. I’ve come across poor soldering connections, particularly with the Chinese gensets. Yes, they often used copper clad aluminum wire, or poor quality copper wire. It amazes me how often these gensets loose their field, sometimes after only a few months of non use. These are a lot of fun to work on, and parts are very inexpensive.
I could have used your mind a few weeks back... LOL.. I am a retired automotive electrical specialist and worked on computer controlled vehicles so repairing this should have been easy. It was, sort of anyway. It isn't easy going from repairing and thinking computer vehicles to primitive generators. But it was real fun getting this done. Actually, more satisfying than a tough "check engine" light repair. Thanks for the comments.
I agree, John. Do this for a hobby, as i'm retired. Garage is full of '' stuff ''. I noticed, the same thing with chinese gens. As well as cheap aluminim wire; they should make better coil connections, to those brushes. I may use JB weld, to secure them in place, after silver soldering them with a good mechanical connection. They also use, pot metal for fuel petcocks; went to replace one, and the lock- nut broke into 3 pieces, wasn't even tight yet. Anyway, good luck !
Parts are cheap my friend. Sorry
@@erniemoore2365 yes I know. I was saying the parts are low cost (inexpensive). The quality of the parts is sometimes low, but sometimes not too bad.
Thank you Sir...... I cannot tell you how long, how many test, and glad i watched the very end, i just have a feeling, i need to flash my new Capacitor!!!
Thanks for the response. Here is another video that I did focused on the flashing of that capacitor. th-cam.com/video/kh3IvlJL3TQ/w-d-xo.html
yep i found this very useful. I love to test and seek out why rather than just replace and hope for the best.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, Mr. Amos. i agree with the angle grinder; alot safer and better control, when engine starts. Using a 12 volt battery, is usually better, as it gives the rotor a good dose, of magnetism.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for this. Mine stopped producing power after it ran out of gas under load. All it needed was a 12V battery to the outlet for a second, while running (I used a very worn motorcycle starting battery). Not the most obvious fix. Oddly, next time it ran out of gas under load, nothing bad happened.
Good information. Thanks... I am going to have to remember this one.
I have one of these that runs fine but I found the capacitor to be defective.
I replaced the capacitor and started it up. I then plugged a drill into it. The drill then ran for a moment and shut off. I checked the breaker that wasn’t tripped!
I haven’t taken it apart yet but I have a feeling that something is frying the capacitor?
If the capacitor is fried again what should I look for?
Thanks
Well, first you need to determine if it is, indeed, a burned out capacitor. If it is, looks for physical evidence of damage to the capacitor. Most replacement caps are made in China and I have seen a capacitor that was manufactured poorly and failed when placed in service. To test the capacitor, use a screwdriver and short across the terminals and look for a spark. If none recharge the capacitor with a battery. Connect one side of the battery to the cap and momentarily touch the other side of the battery to the other side of the cap. A spark should happen. Then short the capacitor with the screwdriver and look for the spark as it discharges. Be very careful not to harm yourself. I cannot be accountable for any damages that might occur to yourself or the generator. ( I just need to post that as protection for myself. Some people just don't mix well with electricity.) Good luck.
Hi Bob,I flashed mine and it did work but only gave power for a few seconds then stopped againg,seems like its not keeping a charge.Should I flash for a longer time witth power pack?
Gee, I wonder why it is not holding a charge? Re-flashing might work. Worth a try. As to longer holding the flash, It should not need that. They charge instantly. Either the capacitor is defective and loses charge internally or there is something discharging it like you do when the two terminals are shorted together. But, there could be something else within the generator that is causing the thing to stop outputting power. Not having the generator in front of me it is difficult to say as to the possible cause. If the unit was operating while charging then stopped while in operation I'd think that it might be something that is moving. Mine was caused by the rotor moving and the wire losing connection. I would bet that the capacitor is holding a charge and something else is causing the failure. If you short circuit the capacitor and there is a "pop" then it is holding the charge. Re-flash to restore the charge. If there is no "pop" as you short out the terminals then it is not holding the charge. That should isolate the possibility of a capacitor issue. Be very careful discharging that capacitor. If you do try to discharge it, do so at your own risk. Hope that you can sort it all out.
Generator runs no output, changed 12uf capacitor still no joy, having watched YT video i plugged in an old electric drill to the generator while running, then connected the drill chuck to chuck to my cordless drill and spun it in reverse. This re-energised the generators magnetic field magnets and it came back to life and ran the electric drill.
Great! That is a process that we all try and hope will work. But it generally does not. So glad to hear that yours worked..
Only worked when using a cordless drill to spin the corded drill fast enough to re excite the lost magnetism.
@@bobamos3628
the world could use a few more Bob's if you asked me thanks man videos really cool and kind of need understanding some of the characteristics of this generator
Well, thank you for the kind words. I am so pleased that I was able to help.
I have one of these generators and the capacitor had an obvious melt down. I've ordered another CBB61. I'm not that experienced with generators, however, should I assume the failure was at the capacitor or should I be looking at components upstream that might have caused this?
Well, when any part has a real "melt down" that is visible, I always suspect some other reason. Without seeing the part and where it melted it would be difficult to say. First thing that I would do is inspect the two connectors on the ends. Are they also burned. If so, they may be loose on the terminal. A loose connection will create resistance and resistance creates heat. So, if that is the case, replace both terminal ends and the capacitor. Then run the generator with the face hanging loose. Feel the resistor for heat. If it is hot there is something wrong that is causing this heat. Generally, too much current flowing through the condenser. A condenser is made up of alternating thin sheets of metal with an insulator between them. There are MANY of these sheets sandwiched into the condenser. It is not unusual for an internal leak to develop causing a short circuit inside the condenser resulting in a melt down. The condenser is supposed to supply a stored electrical charge that helps get the charge going. Think of a condenser as a sort of storage battery. By the way, these condensers are not polarity sensitive. They will fit with the two wires on any side and will not be seen as reversed. Hope this is helpful. Good luck and thanks for writing.
First day useing my small gator i was triming hedges and cut the extension cord still runs only little out put.replaced the reset button and regulator no change.
Tough to say what went wrong but since the cord was cut while the unit was outputting power, the breaker has some lag time before it opens the circuit. I am wondering if you burned some wire and had it break resulting in an open circuit. If it were me I would open thins up and look for evidence of something burned/discoloured or a wire that looks cut but really is burned out. The cute will cause the amperage to increase to maximum and smaller wires are not meant to carry that much amperage and will work like a fuse and open circuit. If you have a multimeter, use it to check continuity on the various wires. Good luck...
Hello from the Uk. Those magnets are to excite the field windings, as you tried to do with the drill and grinder. It also looks like the dreaded lead free solder strikes again. I have read that the number of electronic joint failures has gone up by a factor of 9 since it was stupidly introduced. I can understand using it where it comes into contact with humans but not buried on a printed circuit board or generator. I have used one of these Chinese ones for 7 years - and it still works fine with the original spark plug. Do be careful with the pull cord, make sure it's properly engaged before pulling hard.
Yep, that was defenately not a lead solder. I avoid that stuff whenever possible. As a matter of fact, when it first came out I gave it a go. Just one try and into the dust bin it went. For 47 years I was an automotive electrical specialist and only used what worked and that lead free trash is just that. Trash. I probably will not get a lot of use out of this but it is there if needed. I run it every six months or so just to keep it fresh. You are so correct about that pull cord. Plastic paul that engages the engine is another dumb thing that should not have been done. I always take the slack out then pull. Mine has no 12 volt output but I would not use it if it had it anyway. Hey, thanks for writing.
The gen side crank seal popped out on one of mine, it's a 20x30x7 oil seal. That makes for a huge crankcase air-leak, so it wouldn't start (of course) This was an earlier model, I don't think it was the correct material for gasoline/oil. I haven't had any problem (yet) with the crank seal under the flywheel but I think it's the same size.
When adjusting the engine governor speed, I use a frequency meter shooting for 60Hz at about half load, using a 500Watt incandescent shop lamp.
Poor fit of the seal or was it "blown" out?
@@bobamos3628 Poor fit, I think they drove it in slightly crooked and crushed it. The problem never occured until I overloaded the generator that's when pressure was great enough to pop the seal out.
Temporarily, I reached it with a long screwdriver and pushed it back in place, not a very tight fit considering I could push it into position.
I'll be replacing the seal.
Good job, wish we had the same model made in America to show the comparison on soldering LOL. I'm sure that's probably the problem with mine. But I know how to test now thank you.
Gee, happy that I was able to help.
Exelent video,I have one like that so my problem is the condenser, thanks 👍
Glad that I was able to help out...
Cual es el valor de las resistencias y del diodo porfavor
Daniel, Resistor 15K. The diode is what was in it so I did not get its value. Sorry.
Thanks
A great instructional video. Thank you
Thanks for the response. Glad you liked it.. Hope it was helpful.
Hello Bob, very good video ! Mine has a low voltage issue and I tried replacing and flashing the capacitor to no avail. Could it be the resistor+diode inside? they look in great shape and I am hesitant to take them apart... any hint on how to diagnose the resistor+diode in place? thanks
UPDATE: I took apart the "rectifier" which consisted of 2 NI5408 diodes and 1 resistor, all connected in parallel (why 2 diodes in parallel?). One diode was fried, I simply removed it and kept the other good one in place. All good now. NB: it is a no-name made-in-china brand.
Not sure why the two diodes/rectifiers but if one was shorted as yours probably was it would cause the condition you experienced. Anyway, glad that you solved the problem.
@@jonid9046 two diodes in parallel to handle more current I'd guess
13:00 time. There are 2 diodes, 2 resistors on rotor; each coil has a resistor and a black diode; rated probably 8 amps or so. Check those diodes, may be open, or worse. (AC to DC conversion, same as battery charger.)
Yes there are. i found it easier to replace the resistors than testing but the diodes were a little tougher to get to so I just left them after they tested good. My failure was one of the wires from the stator coil. These use a non solder material to connect them.
@@bobamos3628 non solder ? guess we now know, where the ' cheap ' in china is. i'd use JB weld, on them, after using silver solder.....
@@petersack5074 Yep, they use a product that is sort like epoxy but can carry electrical current. Crazy stuff.. It is called "Wire Glue". www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z9H7ZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There is only one resistor and one diode in my generator. The coils are connected in series with each other. I wonder how many ohm resistor should I put, can you help me? (note my generator is 220v 50hz)
@@kaangoncu2167 Looks like they split the circits for 110 volts. Your 220 volts most likely wire it this way. Sort of like a 12 volt vs 24 volt batteries. 2-12 volt batteries run paralellel gives you 12 volts. 2-12 volt batteries in series gives you 24 volts. Same concept I would think.
Good video and we learnt something new. Thanks Bob :)
Thank you.
Hi Bob, new to this sort of stuff, I can find this exact ccb1 11uF 300vac but ranging anywhere from $30-50, i have found lots that are a little different for much cheaper. Could a 12 or 10uF 350vac capacitor work just as well for example. If not what is the important thing I need to look for as the original 1 in the unit is 11uF 300vac and the 1 in your link is 11uF 450vac. Thanks for any help.
You will be fine with something close in the range for a condensor/capacitor. (Same thing different name) I picked mine up for about $10 dollars give or take a few bucks. I do not recall exctly now. It's old history.. Amazon and eBay have them. I recently picked up one of a different design for my father-in-law's generator and it was $7 and change. Thanks for writing. Chris, I saw that I left a link in another post. Here is that capacitor. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VXYDHVT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 2cycle generator from Harbor freight with 800 to 900W. Would you have information on setting the timing of the generator I have had a problem on mine, which I believe is the timing. It jerks the starter cable out of my hand when starting. It may be trying to fire be it is supposed to. Thanks!
Regards,
Robert Fern
Sorry, I haven't a clue on the agility to change the timing of the spark on these as it has never been an issue for me and the last time I had one open was quite some time ago. I will look and see if I see a way.
Just got one for free got it running. Hooked up a 4.5A grinder cut 1/4 into a log and it stopped putting out power. Breaker does nothing. Any ideas before it's trashed?
Without having the unit in front of me it is difficult to say. I would try doing a direct flashing of the capacitor. Look in my video list, I did a video on direct flashing of the capacitor. Sometimes the drill method does not work. Hope this helps.
What diodes are in these ?? i am pulling one down and was wondering the diodes in them --just incase i need to get them
Gee, I wish that I could tell you but I have no idea their rating. I did see a wiring diagram for it. But am away from my computer on a trip. I should be home early next week and if I can remember I will see if I can find it.
@@bobamos3628 Well i got the gen head off the unit -- so i can finally see what they are
@@michaelfarabee Great. Mine were fine so I didn't think to identify what was in there as far as diodes went. Probably woud have been a good idea.
thanks for the bolt threads size
Glad that I could help...
What if the drill ran for a few seconds do I need a Capacitor or what.
Wish that Icould answe that for you. If the drill started running I would think that the generator had been "excited" and the capacitor was charged. But there is the possibility of an internal fault in the Cap. that might cause a drop out. I did a video on charging the Cap. directly. Give that a try and see if it helps. ALso, there could be any number of things that might cause the generator to stop charging. First thing in my mind would be moving parts followed by weak connections that drop out once a load start to flow. Wish I could tell you more but without the unit in front of me all I can do is guess.. Good luck.
How I solder copper clad aluminum enamel wire? as well as copper copper enamel wire.
Knowing the enamel will soften under solder melting temperature, once soften can be rubbed off/open exposing copper clad surface.
Use liberally of flux (from flux core solder) to engulf / protect the enamel wire to avoid chances for exposure of clad to oxygen in the air, otherwise we’d accidentally rub and oxidize the thin copper cad. This process takes time and patient.
If all else fail clean the CCA wire and Vaseline coat it then crimp a spade terminal to reconnect the broken junction.
Gee thanks for the reply.. Have you done videos on YuTube? I'd like to see you perform this proceedure...
@@bobamos3628 It was a repair but TH-cam production. Sorry no video taken. I can capture that next time.
@@philoso377 Well, if you ever do make a video of it please let me know. I would like to see the process that you use..
@@bobamos3628 OK first let me organize myself with materials enough to make some video. Could you subscribe my channel and activate the bell? That is a good way to keep track of new video.
@@philoso377 Done.. Looking forward to the video..
Great video thank you for sharing. I have the same problem with mine , the dialed flew out destroying the fan , could you tell me or anyone tell me what is that part called
The part that was damaged in this video is the rotor. Sort of like armature but without brushes.
As far as the diodes and resistors, couldn't tell the direction of the diodes on each side? Can't find schematic of armature! Both sides of mine has deteriorated!
I do not think that their are any schematics around. At least I never found one. As to direction of the diode. If one went bad I would imagine the second would be fine. I would test it for direction of flow and then duplicate that on the bad one...
Hello, I would be very happy if you could help me. I can't get voltage from my generator as in the video. When I got the rotor, I saw that the resistor and the diode were burnt out, so I couldn't see or read the colors of the resistor. and my generator has only one resistor and diode, not two like yours. I decided to install a new resistor and diode, how many ohm resistor should I use? can you help me or someone tell me how many ohms Is it realistic to use resistors?(also my generator is a 220v 50hz generator
the mains here is 220v 50hz😃)
I think that I said what it was in the video. I do not recall at the moment. But.... seeing as yours is carrying all of the loadon one resistor it may not be the same as my 110 voltunit was.
Mine won't put out unless you plug in something pretty big 250w heat lamp for example
Sometimes the idle speed needs to be accelerated in order for the generator to be energised.
Hi Bob, I have the same problem with a HF Tailgator did you get 120v at the plug if you put 12v dc to the condenser? I do... Seems if I excite the field I get power.. Thanks !
After repairing the rotor fault and replacing the capacitor I direct flashed the capacitor. I did a video on doing the flashing. Look in the video listing for it..
Hi, so i have the tailgator version of this generator, i tested the leads coming from the capacitor and i'm only getting 0.11 to 0.20 ac volts, and i have resistance from the 110 lead. so.. everything beyond that is checking out.. i took the rotor out like you did and checked everything over.. it had a couple nicks in it but all in all it looked really good. i put it back together and still the same issue. i replaced the cap and nothing there aswell. Any ideas?
Did you flash the new capacitor? They need to have a charge in it in order to start the charge process. I did anothe rvideo on the flash process. Here is a link to that video. What you are showing is exactly what a loss of stored power shows. th-cam.com/video/kh3IvlJL3TQ/w-d-xo.html
@@bobamos3628 yes sir, I sure did. I had my brother help me and we tried to jump it. When I got the unit given to me it had the circuit breaker removed and a couple random bolts missing here is a video on the readings I got. streamable.com/lw6ckx
@@HunterTalksWeather Well, while you had it opened, did you measure the resistors and check that the diode had current flow in only one direction? You will need to isolate them to check it and will need the wire glue to reinstall them. Only remove one end to check. Also, check for contenuity of each of the coils of wire on the armature. Make sure that there is not continuity to the rotor framing. Do the same for the outer coils. It is difficult to impossible to diagnose without the unit in front of me but hopefully you will be able to find the fault. Remember that mine checked good on that rotor until a probed around and found a broken with. It is a very fine wire and difficult to work with bt, in my case, had to be worked with. Good luck
Excellent video mate. I've got one on these (it's branded a power craft 720 I think it's 650w 240v) that is not giving out any power on either the 240v or the 12v. I've just taken it apart to inspect the windings in mine, as they all meter out fine with continuity. Slightly differently made to yours, different diodes and resistors I think. I'm yet to cut and test them as they'd soldered them under a bit of plastic so I'd have to cut them off the copper to resolder so I'm hesitant.
I think I might be dealing with a bad cap. Unfortunately my crappy multimeter is only half working, so I can't trust what it's telling me. But the cap looks old. It's a 15uf and I had a 12uf from a dehumidifier I took apart. Do you think that would work? I did try it but nothing worked.
I am yet to try the 12v across the cap whilst it's running yet.
Does it have to be running for that to work, can I put 12v into the cap when it's not running, and then install?
First, you do not need to have it running to "flash" the capacitor. It also does not matter the polarity. I always flash them while connested to the circuit.
A question: I had someone asking about their rotor ony having a diode and resistor on one side while the other was run in series to the other. Mine is a 120 volt system and was wondering if they just split the rotor in half to achieve the half voltage of your 240 volt unit.
Mine has no 12 volt output so not sure what is in that system as I have nothing to reference to.
Saludos desde Mexico, por ser en inglés no entiendo muy bien sobre el capacitor o condensador, tengo un generador como el del video que lo pusieron a trabajar pero no desconectaron el suministro de energía aunque en ese momento no había electricidad el generador dejó de funcionar y ahora solo entrega 50 v . no hay problemas con las bobinas, y el capacitor me da 11.9 mf ¿Debo cambiar el capacitor aunque me de una medida aceptable :?:
Folks, This is what was written... Greetings from Mexico, because it is in English I do not understand very well about the capacitor or capacitor, I have a generator like the one in the video that they put to work but they did not disconnect the power supply although at that time there was no electricity the generator stopped working and now it only delivers 50 v. no problems with the coils, and the capacitor gives me 11.9 mf Should I change the capacitor even if it gives me an acceptable measurement:?:
Al no tener el generador en mis manos, es difícil determinar qué está mal. El hecho de que tenga algo de voltaje indica que está funcionando hasta cierto punto. Sugeriría mirar en una bobina de campo que podría estar en cortocircuito y no permitir la salida de voltaje completo. También mire la armadura en busca de algún tipo de falla. Quizás un diodo. Eso requiere tomarlo aparte como tuve que hacer. Espero que esto sea útil.
Appreciated the first translation. But no translation for your reply?
Where do you get the capacitor ?
Sorry for the delay. I don't seem to be receiving any notices on the video... I got it from Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VXYDHVT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did not understand what happened at the end of the video, is it charging the capacitor?
I had to charge the capacitor in order for it to excite the generator to start charging..
My stormcat would run a drill, but not my phone charger .I turned the idel and it worked now
Good advice. The generator needs to reach a certain load level for it to respond and increase RPM as well as needing a certain RPM in order to work. So, the phone probably was not enough of a load for the generator to see but the drill certainly was. It responded to the drill and increased RPM and started an output but with too low an RPM it would not start an output and not charge the phone. Glad that you got it to work for you. Remember though, that this is not a clean output machine and the erattic output could damage sensitive devices.
All three of mine have always worked fine, the earliest of the three has a 12V battery charging feature which has a cable and clip leads which attach to the end frame for charging lead acid batteries. Anyway, I've only used these when power has gone out for more than a couple hours maybe once/year, if that.
I have another brand of generator but just wanted one of these because they look sort of cute. Got this one real cheap and decided to do this video of the repairs. Like you, I only use them when power has been out for a few hours. Took one camping once but way to loud for that.. Thanks for writing.
@@bobamos3628 They get me through in a pinch, they've saved the contents of my fridge and freezer a few times now.
Thank you the drill worked
Glad to be of help. To tell you the truth, I never could get the drill thing to work but have seen it with others. Mine always seemed to have more issues. Again, glad it worked for you.
Ok Bob I check everything you did on mine and check out and still nothing Ok was it the wire or the resistor great job Rodger here
On mine it was the thin wire from the rotor winding that attaches to the resistor and diode end. that was an open circuit.
@@bobamos3628 ok thank you so much awesome video I will dig a little deeper
Ok Bob I went back over everything and it seams to check out but it has low voltage If I plug my drill into it it runs but I can stop it with my hand I did but a new capastaor in it could it be bad thanks Rodger
@@rodgeremery5691 The capacitor just triggers the system into action. If it is being triggered then it is most likely okay. Low output can come from a number of things. Too slow rotation of the rotor, a bad circuit in the stator is another. Remember that the system is a magnet (rotor) spinning withing coils of wire (stator). In this case, that spinning magnet breaks the field of the stator wiring. It goes from north to south and back again over and over. This causes AC current to flow withing the stator.
How it all works....If you run electrical current through a wire it will have a magneting field around the wire. Also, if you run a magnetic field over a wire it will cause current to flow within. That is how these work. So, if the stator does not have enough wiring to flow current withing it will register as low.
Voltage is one thing but amerage is another. Amperage is the amount of current flowing, or pressure, while voltage is the amount of energy available, or potential. Knowing which is absent would help lead you in the right direction.
Make sure the generator rotor is spinning fast enough. Low engine speed or a slippage between the rotor and engine is possible. Check continuity of the stator windings and match the resistance ratngs. In other words, they should match closely. Also check the resistance ratings of the rotor circuits. Same here, must be close.
Good luck..
Thank you so much I'm on I believe talking to you now when you plug something in and use it the motor always Revs up but it does not so I'm going to say it's the stator I'm going to work on it thank for your help and I will keep in touch to let you know the progress you have been a big help to me I appreciate it.
The labor to have one repaired would be twice the cost of a new one.
You got that right. That is why it is something that an owner should try and do themselves. Thanks for the comment...
Good Demonstration Bob!!! I am surprised at the number of people not knowing that these need flashed..or can lose charge over time. If I am correct don't the magnets resist each creating magnetic field to drive the motor? We had an electric motor apart the other day at work and one of the other Techs was describing that a bit.
Great video..very detail. Well done!!
Thanks Lee. It is surprising the number that do not realize this. What is even more interesting is the fact that I did not find a single video about flashing the Condenser/capacitor on this model. I was thinking the same on those magnets. My specialty was automotive electronics. You know computer operations and diagnostics. Was thinking the magnets were an aid to the magnetic field that drives these things.
Could we do an engine upgrade?
It really would not be worth it. But the only upgrade would be a cylinder and piston as it is all one casting.
Wonder how many of these $100 generators were sent to landfills that might have been repaired? The problem is finding someone to work on them. I have one of these generators and will bookmark this video. THANKS!
Funny, I thought the same thing more than once. Most failures are for no start and is generally a sticking float needle. Since they are so inexpensive they are just tossed on the rubbish heap. This one was well cared for and in perfect condition except that it did not charge. $20 is all I paid so others that are not so well cared for would be worth very little. I've seen them for free and as low as $5. Glad that I was able to help out.
@M J Low original cost items are never really worth making a business out of unless it is a quick fix. Those that do fix and sell really are doing it as a hobby of sorts or the sheer enjoyment. I too enjoy fixing anything. I am a retired automotive electrical and A/C specialist so fixing things is what I love doing. Some of what I fix are given to friends and family. Some I keep. If I kept everything I would need a bigger garage (Which I already could use..)
I was at a customer in la they do recycling of metals. S.a is the name part of ecology, in the back there was a pile of almost new harbor freight and other generators.
Mine only makes power when you rev it up really weird
There is an adjustment screw above the pull starter. It may have silicone shoved into the head. Try adjusting this to up the speed and see what happens. Not too high though but it does need some engine speed to trigger the charge.
my 9 y/o stormcat stopped making power. found the capacitor all bulged. replaced. installed. started. didn't think i saw the lights on my circuit tester so shut down and prepared to "flash." upon restart unit was making power, no flashing necessary. fwiw
Great!! Flashing is not always needed. Mine had set for about a year with that wire broken and when I tried to restart it was needing flashing. But, I did actually discharge the capacitor and the generator did not self flash. Glad yours was an inexpensive repair.
That epoxy will be conductive at first, but not after a year or so..
Ask me how I know.
I used the exact same stuff.
Doesn't matter where it was made.
It is actually called Wire Glue. It has been on for over a year now and is still working. But, I will be sure to keep an eye on it and if it fils at least I will know where to look. So, what did you find that lasts? Or did you not? Maybe someone reading this can help us... Thanks for the heads up.
@@bobamos3628 I used it to try to repair some Subaru speakers where the leads became detached from the coil.
I haven't found another conductive glue... I've just gotten better yet at soldering lol..
I do notice now your packaging says "Improved" so maybe they addressed the issue I mention?
I bought mine roughly 5 or so years ago. I have the little jar of glue but couldn't find the packaging to check it..
And I actually did have to repair a very similar issue on our work's Briggs & Stratton Storm Responder generator; it had been stored by the Jersey Shore for a while, then went through Hurrican Ida last year, so there was some chalky corrosion where the 2 halves of the winding were joined. Was difficult to get a clean solder joint because of residue of the wire coating but finally got it.
Your explanations are very clear I must say. Thank you!
@@spettro9 This generator part required a non solder repair as the wire would not accept solder. As a professional auto electrical specialist soldering is a snap for me so the use of something like this is foreign to my way of performing repairs. So far it has held and I hope that it will continue. But if not it is no big deal as this is not my only generator. I guess only time will tell...
Capacitor discharge fast paps. The rotor windings is the fault.
My first check would have been electrical plug outlet those go bad relatively easily
Well, I did check the voltage at the plug and at the input of the wiring on the back side.. Maybe I should have included that but it was, sort of, considered something normal to look at first. Thanks for the comment and hopefully someone will read your post and add that to their diagnostic procedure.
I have the same generator and it only has 1 diode and 1 resistor
Really? Is yours the Strom Cat or one that looks like mine? I would have to see the circuitry to know why this is your case. I am assuming that it did operate at some time so it may be designed to only require a single diode and resistor. What I would be looking for would be the two rotor windings. I would be interested in knowing if they are two different circuits or are they tied together?
@@bobamos3628 yes I actually was able to repair it. It is indeed the very same one. Mine had only one diode and resistor. The resistor was a different value then yours so maybe that's why I only needed one
I’m having the same problem with mine, I have 1 diode and 1 resistor. I want to replace both and I have the diode part number. But I don’t know the value of the resistor. Do you know by chance ?
Is that not a capacitor
Not sure that I understand your question. If you are referring to my calling it a condenser, they are one in the same. Two names for the same item. Condenser is the old term as well as the automotive term. I am a retired automotive mechanic so condenser stuck with me.
nope not a commutator but slip rings.capacitor jobs don't have the cleanest a.c. output
Yep, these things are not clean at all... But f only used on non-critical items it works just fine... I actually rarely use this thing.
Need amic, can,t hear ya!
That was an old video. I now have a couple mics for newer videos.
go
Say what?
The end; i am really beginning to not like ch i n a .....IF you make something, do it once, DO IT RIGHT ! incredible junk...
SOme items from Chuna are junk and some are pretty good. We just need to be able to determine what is what..