Beware, advice from The Internet incoming! :P - non-locker on the ladders - It's faster to only ever have one ladder on a bolt at a time - It's faster to only clip into the draw once you're standing on the next ladder, and do it at the same time you unclip your last ladder - Bring along a quickdraw for high-stepping. You can clip it from your belay loop straight into the bolt, step on the highest rung of the ladder, and stand straight up. Lots of support, and you get a ton of reach if you need it! If you haven't already, the book "How To Big Wall Climb" is essential and goes over a lot of these things.
Last and first time I experimented with aiding and ladder ascending was some trash... Terrain was easy enough that I could free climb it lol. Haven't hopped bolts - I was plugging small cams into thin seams, which made it a little easier to bump and adjust height, rather than having to reach for the one and only bolt. Anyway, thanks for the video, the internet feedback, the reception of the feedback, and the book recommendation! Cheers, and thanks for the channel.
Cool video. It's nice that there wasn't any runout on that route. I'm thinking one could utilize a stickclip to clip a quickdraw with aid ladder onto the next bolt if it's runout.
A. Im sure everyone saw the backclip, but B: i think the part that you struggled getting up could have used a sky hook to get up to the bolt, and then traversing you could have done the same thing to make it less free climb taxing and more aid friendly.
I know I'm a little late, but cool video man. I love seeing aid climbing. Definitely cool to see a first person perspective of it. I don't know why people bash on aid so much. It's all climbing, whatever gets you out on the rock.
Something about this broke my brain. I kept trying to figure out the right words to ask but I think the best I can do is "why did this look so exhausting?" I've seen you climb seemingly harder pitches and from my perspective it's like you struggled a lot more with this one than others. .. is it the lack of climbing shoes that made all that difference? Is the pitch harder than it looked? I have so many questions and I don't even know why or what those questions actually should be.
Hehe! Good question, trying to answer that one myself. The lack of climbing shoes absolutely made the top harder but it is interesting to see once placed out of your element, even mentally, how much more effort I apply.
@@FirstPersonBeta Haha. Yeah I was thinking you would say something like "It was cold and I didn't sleep or eat much so I was exhausted" but the mental impact makes sense. The toughest I've climbed is a 5.11 but I remember getting on my first 5.10 and I was all nervous about how crimpy it was and just that uncertainty of "can i do it." I never made it past the crux the first time. Now I climb that route so easily and I'm certain going on it with a positive mentality like "I've climbed it already so I know I can do it" makes it seem easy more so than the fact that I've climbed up it before. Currently I'm struggling with a 5.12- and I feel the same as I did with the first time I climbed that 5.10 Sidebar: do you ever find yourself climbing in the midwest?
lol!i just watched this and your Nose video. The question that is wracking my brain is how can you have climbed a thousand routes free and have absolutely no clue about aid? I find this super entertaining and deeply puzzling.
Ummmm, even though its an aid route, you're not supposed to clip metal to the bottom carabiner on a quickdraw. Metal on metal can create some pretty nasty edges, which your rope is then running through. Really only a problem if you are putting a hook or something with a harder steel edge in there, but bad practice none-the-less
And using bolts pounded into the rock and “taking” on them isn’t the same thing? 😂 most aid routes are way too hard to free climb. Even the ones that are free climbed these days with “equipment” - shoes with sticky rubber, are usually only doable because of the pin scars that remain. So technically many of them probably couldn’t be climbed even still unless many people aided the route first. Even so, many of the best, longest routes still require aid climbing by all but a select few, who most likely had to aid the route (at least partially) before they could send it free. And last I checked, mixed ice climbing uses equipment to ascend routes as well.
Dude It doesent mater how we climb. My personal style of climbing is a mix when i use hands and ice Axe. Drytooling mix with sport and trad climbing. And i Love it😋
would love to find people to climb with outdoors, I usually stick to indoor and would love to climb some real rock! Any open partners that climb at Birdsboro, and would like to teach a new outdoor climber?
why aid climb that route? is he practicing using eteriers? I just don't get it, looked like maybe an 11ish in difficulty, bolted very generously, why not just climb it....I don't get aid on bolts - if you are going to practice aid at least practice using gear and get the feel for what will hot what? that seemed like a total exercise in futility to me? help me understand the point?
wheres you daisy chain or metolious synch??? No use using eteriers unless you can step in the top step which you will not be able to do with out a fifi hook and a daisy chain
Beware, advice from The Internet incoming! :P
- non-locker on the ladders
- It's faster to only ever have one ladder on a bolt at a time
- It's faster to only clip into the draw once you're standing on the next ladder, and do it at the same time you unclip your last ladder
- Bring along a quickdraw for high-stepping. You can clip it from your belay loop straight into the bolt, step on the highest rung of the ladder, and stand straight up. Lots of support, and you get a ton of reach if you need it!
If you haven't already, the book "How To Big Wall Climb" is essential and goes over a lot of these things.
Thanks for the advice. Believe me when I say, I'm well versed in internet critique (and they're twist locks on the ladders).
@@FirstPersonBeta Right on! Looks like a lot of progress :)
Last and first time I experimented with aiding and ladder ascending was some trash... Terrain was easy enough that I could free climb it lol. Haven't hopped bolts - I was plugging small cams into thin seams, which made it a little easier to bump and adjust height, rather than having to reach for the one and only bolt.
Anyway, thanks for the video, the internet feedback, the reception of the feedback, and the book recommendation! Cheers, and thanks for the channel.
Cool video. It's nice that there wasn't any runout on that route. I'm thinking one could utilize a stickclip to clip a quickdraw with aid ladder onto the next bolt if it's runout.
I did this at e-rock once, literally same "rack" and everything. It's fun to just hang out on a wall for a while and not hurt lol
A. Im sure everyone saw the backclip, but B: i think the part that you struggled getting up could have used a sky hook to get up to the bolt, and then traversing you could have done the same thing to make it less free climb taxing and more aid friendly.
I know I'm a little late, but cool video man. I love seeing aid climbing. Definitely cool to see a first person perspective of it.
I don't know why people bash on aid so much. It's all climbing, whatever gets you out on the rock.
Nice wouldn't be able to do it without aid
Something about this broke my brain.
I kept trying to figure out the right words to ask but I think the best I can do is "why did this look so exhausting?"
I've seen you climb seemingly harder pitches and from my perspective it's like you struggled a lot more with this one than others.
.. is it the lack of climbing shoes that made all that difference? Is the pitch harder than it looked?
I have so many questions and I don't even know why or what those questions actually should be.
Hehe! Good question, trying to answer that one myself. The lack of climbing shoes absolutely made the top harder but it is interesting to see once placed out of your element, even mentally, how much more effort I apply.
@@FirstPersonBeta Haha. Yeah I was thinking you would say something like "It was cold and I didn't sleep or eat much so I was exhausted" but the mental impact makes sense. The toughest I've climbed is a 5.11 but I remember getting on my first 5.10 and I was all nervous about how crimpy it was and just that uncertainty of "can i do it."
I never made it past the crux the first time. Now I climb that route so easily and I'm certain going on it with a positive mentality like "I've climbed it already so I know I can do it" makes it seem easy more so than the fact that I've climbed up it before. Currently I'm struggling with a 5.12- and I feel the same as I did with the first time I climbed that 5.10
Sidebar: do you ever find yourself climbing in the midwest?
Hey man, this Birdsboro or Ralph stover? Rock looks familiar
Birds
@@FirstPersonBeta what climb?
lol!i just watched this and your Nose video. The question that is wracking my brain is how can you have climbed a thousand routes free and have absolutely no clue about aid? I find this super entertaining and deeply puzzling.
This my friends is what is know as gnarly aid clipping! Make sure you get the newest New Balance shoes on because it aids in your accent.
is that foam (construction/insulation foam) in the flake near the anchor?
thanks for the nice videos btw
Ummmm, even though its an aid route, you're not supposed to clip metal to the bottom carabiner on a quickdraw. Metal on metal can create some pretty nasty edges, which your rope is then running through. Really only a problem if you are putting a hook or something with a harder steel edge in there, but bad practice none-the-less
Why do people aid climb? It doesn't seem like real rock climbing, more like climbing your own equipment
Obviously it's subjective but for myself anyway, It's a necessary skill (evil) if I plan on climbing The Nose.
And using bolts pounded into the rock and “taking” on them isn’t the same thing? 😂 most aid routes are way too hard to free climb. Even the ones that are free climbed these days with “equipment” - shoes with sticky rubber, are usually only doable because of the pin scars that remain. So technically many of them probably couldn’t be climbed even still unless many people aided the route first. Even so, many of the best, longest routes still require aid climbing by all but a select few, who most likely had to aid the route (at least partially) before they could send it free.
And last I checked, mixed ice climbing uses equipment to ascend routes as well.
Dude It doesent mater how we climb. My personal style of climbing is a mix when i use hands and ice Axe.
Drytooling mix with sport and trad climbing. And i Love it😋
good tool when route building
Some climbs for physical prowess. Some other climbs to get somewhere unusual
would love to find people to climb with outdoors, I usually stick to indoor and would love to climb some real rock! Any open partners that climb at Birdsboro, and would like to teach a new outdoor climber?
why aid climb that route? is he practicing using eteriers? I just don't get it, looked like maybe an 11ish in difficulty, bolted very generously, why not just climb it....I don't get aid on bolts - if you are going to practice aid at least practice using gear and get the feel for what will hot what? that seemed like a total exercise in futility to me? help me understand the point?
Guess you missed the Nose video.
Looks so frustrating... hard to believe these are the roots of climbing as we know it today.
Damn, dude.
wheres you daisy chain or metolious synch??? No use using eteriers unless you can step in the top step which you will not be able to do with out a fifi hook and a daisy chain
what an awfull way to get on that rock, better do some good rock climbing, so you can touch the rock
first
person beta, You Rock!