Exactly what I was going to say... sometimes, if the outlet is too far in, I’ll wrap some 14GA copper around the screw and cut it to make a custom thickness washer. Then, when it sits out the right depth. Put the cover on and square it with the outlet tester
Dude you're not an electrician quit telling people to do dangerous things. Besides which this is easily remedied by tweaking it with a plug tester or a stout cord end.
@@arlescure actually I am an electrician, there is nothing dangerous about my suggestion, you should stick to what you know and not criticize people on what you don't know. And I don't know what you're talking about because you're just saying what I suggested and making fun of it?
As an electrician I bend the metal ears or "yoke" as it is referred to, to make it stand proud off the wall. If your outlet is wobbly or too deep, take some wire, wrap it around a Phillips screwdriver and make it like a barber pole, take it off the screwdriver, presto, you have spacers of any size and quantity without the trip to the depot. Also I would recommend 2" 6-32 screws if your device is too deep in the wall in addition to the afformentioned spacers.
After trying to make the adjustments to bring the recessed receptical out flush with the drywall for screwless plates, I decided to give up and go and get spacers tomorrow. It dawned on me that perhaps I could bend the yoke into the box which would hold the receptical out. I haven't tried it yet but will look at that in the morning.
That's just a band-aid, put a plug in and bump into the plug it will put tension back on the wires and twist it. The actual fix are those four tabs on the top and bottom of the switch, you bend those in slightly in toward the box so when you screw the switch to the box they act as a slight stand-off. Try it, I think you'll be even more amazed.
LOVE THIS CHANNEL. That been my approach to them also and it seems to "get ' er dun" even when the box is mounted a bit janky. You just back off the box attachment screws a bit, use some needle nose pliers to bend the tabs accordingly, re-tighten the receptacle attachment screws, check the alignment by simply placing the covering plate on for a visual check (fine tune the tabs as necessary), then attach the covering plate with the finish screws. My OCD (ocular consideration detail) requires that the top screw match the orientation of the bottom - for me its vertical line to make future cleaning easier - now is it really easier, who knows but it satisfies my OCD. hah.
My mind is blown right now and I'm currently questioning reality. Great tip! I had no idea what those tabs were for... Do they also serve another purpose?
Yup, and when you do temp plugs you cut them off so the Drywaller can cut around the box without leaving huge holes at the top and bottom. Either that or you have to pull the plug and jam it into the box, but you better wrap the plug with electrical tap or you are gonna get zapped, especially with metal boxes.
@@MS1022YT this box is slightly different than ones we see in new construction these days. On a modern box those tabs sit flush against the drywall and square it up automatically. Maybe back in the day when drywall was cut by hand around outlets the tabs served for some adjustment
I can be OCD about things, but the thought of overtightening a screw by 1/4 turn bothers me more than them not looking them same. I screw them down until they feel like they are tight enough.
As an electrician you work to not have this but I can say there are tools out there that plugs in to both outlets and has an insulated T-Handle that lets you turn it slightly. I’ve seen some guys just keep a spare plug on hand to tweek them. The benefits the tools have is not having to remove the outlet or even the cover. Sometimes it’s from the metal getting slightly bent as can happen when you buy in bulk. My T-Handle also has a built in led to inform that the outlet is energized.
If they just stopped cheaping out and making the metal parts of the plugs and switches from recycled tin cans and made them a little thicker, this wouldn't be an issue, but some bean counter somewhere needed to save 5 cents on every 100 plugs. I'm sure you can get commercial grade switches with thicker metal tabs, and probably better contacts too
Four minutes and fourteen seconds and it still looks like crap. The receptacle needs to end up flush on all four sides and not all loosy-goosy. Not to mention that the rough drywall cut-out is fully visible on the LHS. Not acceptable by my standards, Not even close.
Spend all the time you want but homeowners will pull the vacuum cord sideways and you can start all over again. Eventually I will get paid to change it and it will start over again. Just putting my kids through college.
Use a receptacle tester. No need to pull plate or receptacle. Plug in tester and use as an adjustment tool. Try it, it works. Adjust your whole house in minutes!
The four tabs are there to offset that tension, I bend them with needle nose pliers. Also, if you leave the outlet a bit loose in the box and use a high quality cover plate, you can snug the outlet up onto the cover which will keep it square. Good advice though, and always a good idea to first make sure the outlet is as square as possible before covering...
Those unbreakable plates are the key to "floating" warranty work close to a electrical box. Drywall is smooth but never flat. Its an illusion of straight that most people don't realize
Electrician here, I change out atleast a few hundred receptacles a month and hate leaving my work looking like a handyman did it... Anyways, there's a few tricks to this depending on the situation, but I've found the best way is to use a Klein plug-in tester to shift it flush with your cover plate. Extended device screws (6-32) also helps in terms of creating the correct depth. You will need to cut the screws to correct lengths, but you can really fine tune your plugs this way. Especially if you got an uneven wall to mess with :)
@@chadwickv2 oh thank god we have a Journeyman here. I've always wondered what the difference between an L5-15R and an L5-15P is? I mean on the NEMA chart all the P's and R's look the same. I guess the letters don't mean anything.
This sort of thing is the reason we have “call backs” in electrical contracts. You need to use them. The apprentice that screwed it up needs to fix it. You’re not doing anyone a favor by doing it yourself. They need to learn. If you screwed it up, it’s your problem.
As obsessive as I am, I don't think I've ever given much thought to how I leave the screws.. Well, thanks... This will give me something to do Saturday morning! lol :) :)
Actually, isn't that what those little tabs either side of the mounting screw are for, you bend them back a bit with a pliers, even on both sides, so they touch the box when you tighten the screw, and hold it even? Then you can make them offset if the box isn't quite square, and get the plug level. Otherwise you're relying on the wiring in the box to hold the outlet forwards and at the right angle, which doesn't seem right to me...
Bending the tabs works. The other thing is that he mentioned not snugging it up real tight which is what I used to do. You don’t want it real loose either but often times tightening the plate down will bring the receptacle into the right position because the plate lays flat on the wall and pulls the receptacle into the plate.
Yeah as long as the drywaller gets nice and tight against the box, the tabs will hold the outlet flush against the outer drywall surface. It won’t matter if the box is cockeyed.
Correct on all 3 comments here! Yes you can snip them off at top and/or bottom. They are pre shaped from the manufacturer and easily bendable to snip off with pliers. This is commonly done for 3 gang boxes or more.
If you do a lot of replacing cover plates, as is often when a room is painted, the switches and plugs get will sometimes have been replaced/updated as well. Singles are not too bad, but doubles and triples are a bit of a pain sometimes. It's a good idea to have (in your toolbox) a double and a triple plate, and drill some large access holes where the hold down screws for the switches would be. Then use this plate backwards to hold the switches the right distance apart and in alignment while you access the screws to anchor them down. You can then flip the plate over to check to see if any of them need spacing out (such as with Caterpillar Spacer Shims (from IDEAL at Homer Despots) or twisting side to side to align. Once all is good and they are aligned and secure, install your actual cover plate.
You are the only other person I've heard say this in my life. I figured it out on a 5 gang (reversing the plate) and ever since then carry around all the sizes in between. Well done mate I am glad to learn that it isn't an over engineered concept
If you install an outlet plate and you don't orient the screw heads evenly up or down, you're not human. I'm a horzontal man myself, but it drives me nuts when I see them crooked.
I tighten them until I feel like they are torqued down properly. If they match, then cool. If not, that’s cool too. As long as they aren’t over or under torqued.
I have always found the best test of whether a 15A circuit is live, is to tap a finger on the hot lead. Makes you feel like a real man, and also it keeps you awake for another couple of hours 😂
I bend the "ears" slightly if needed. This is a good fix if you're installing two or more light switches or outlets. I had an OCD moment while installing a gang of three panel switches in my living room wall. Bending the ears was the only method that worked.
@@monkeygraborange no, we don't. The only reason to tape the terminals on a device is if you're leaving it loose for tile or drywall coming in after you.
What about if the box is sticking out on one side? You have another video of the box is out of square. Any tips on how to solve this on freshly painted walls?
Dude! You were extremely lucky on that one. The bare screws (terminal screws) are always energized regardless of side or back wired. Had you touched the device to the box, would have had a nice bzzzzzt! The box IS grounded. Recommend (power off, but know most don’t do this, even me) NOT entirely removing mounting/wall screws, leave enough thread in wall-box. This should allow enough grasp on device bracket to nudge left and right, but actually not even grasp the brackets, just simply place face of your flattened thumb on face of finished face-you’ll see the device rock back and forth. When re-securing, take wall-plate without the screws and see if it sits smooth on all sides, then last the finish screws, not tight its just holding the plate. FYI...if and when pulling-out any device, the wires within box are moved creating a potential short. That’s why mentioning try to not remove devices entirely due a wire may move to the pathway of screws removed when re-securing device...may pierce an energized wire. ⚡️⚡️
Check out my comment above and yes by pushing it down w your thumb on the face of the receptacle and screwing it in evenly and slow is very simple to get it squared. First shut off power and always wrap the receptacles w/ electrical tape covering all the terminals. Then bend the wires almost like a v shape and tuck into back of box. Then screw it in! After your 1st time should take 5 min. Remember power must be off before working on live loads. Safety first.
Another way... I found a pair of "duck bill" channel locks at a flea market and snatched them up ($2) for this very purpose. You have to make sure the power is off. I have electrical tape wrapped around the jaws. Just loosen the screws a bit I can grab the sides of the receptacle or switch and twist it to the desired postion. Tighten the screws. A friend who is an electrician saw mine but was never able to find a pair like them so he made his own by grinding down the jaws (thinnner, not shorter) and welded on some 1" KOs and he says they stay on his truck and he never fights this issue anymore.
Why would you NOT turn off the power? And when pushing on the wires you need to check for possible damage to insulation and over bending. Plus make sure the screws are tight. Then with the device pulled out straighten the wires up then bend the wires so they fold up as you push the device into the box
Hi Ben! Sorry to bother you, I have a question! My mom Lynn is undertaking a HUGE project by herself remodeling our kitchen. She watches your videos constantly and loves them! She feels like she can tackle this project thanks to you. I was wondering if you had a spare moment if you wouldn’t mind making a little shout out video for her to keep her encouraged? Even if it’s like 30 seconds long I know it would mean a lot to her! Thanks for your time 🤗
Just a tip if the box is metal electric tape over the screw terminals is aways a good idea and if not it still doesnt hurt to wrap around outlets and switches to protect you your tools and then you can work on them hot with no worries
Good advice! I have experienced replacing a GFCI in an apartment bathroom and having it work fine for about 6 months until one day recently the resident plugged something in and it arced from one of the screws to the metal box and tripped the breaker. It might work fine when you install it, but with some of the smaller boxes the tolerance is so close that it is a good idea to wrap the screws every time. Lesson learned.
Hi Ben, can you make a video showing what to do if the electrical box is installed too far behind the drywall (ie. Not sticking out far enough from the stud). Thank you
daniel green Use something like “. Ideal Industries 772453 “. I used them when I did a tile backsplash in our kitchen. Use one or more. They kind of snap together like Legos if you need more thickness. . Available at big box stores
Trend Investor - Washers will get you flagged if there is an electrical inspection, they do not meet code. As the other poster noted, Caterpillar Spacer Shims (from IDEAL at Homer Despots) do the trick. I wish they were a bit more "solid" when stacked pretty deep, especially when I'm trying to have the outlet not bear on any glass tiles, but that's what's available. Alternatively, you can use a "box extension" (plastic or metal) to give the bearing surface you need. Having a handful of longer #6 screws on hand is also handy, as sometimes the box is so far back the regular screws won't reach.
Sorry no experience of Canadian 2 pin sockets, but can you bend down the four metal tabs a bit ( one at each corner ) to stop it wobbling about. Then gently tighten the two socket retaining screws, before trial fit on the faceplate. Those tabs must have some function. I recommend turn the power off, and prove dead, before starting work, as e.g. you could have faulty protection at the switchboard, and get a bigger splash than you expect if a wire breaks off. All that said, real nice to see you sorting these details. In UK some plasters panel over sockets, because they don't want to sort them out ( only electricians allowed to fiddle with sockets here . . . )
Here is an even easier method. Take the cover plate off, loosen the screws to the outlet a bit, insert a circuit polarity tester and use it as leverage to straighten the outlet angle. (You should be testing the polarity after every install anyway.) Works great... very easy with 14 gauge wire, a bit more troublesome with 12 gauge. Really tough if there is a 12 gauge pass through with 4 conductors and a ground connected!
I always like to get my wires positioned the best that I can into the back of the box so that they generally do not twist the outlet one way or the other. With tight boxes and many devices in the Box sometimes it is hard to get it just right.
My cousin and i had this discussion about that very issue. We both do most of our own home renovations. He's OCD when doing most things . The reason that he found out was due to installing the outlet box to tight when putting nails in the side of the box and allow a little space for flexablity. That could be another reason. Your channel is good. I like actual work enviroment scenrios. Thank you
From my humble opinion from a DIY’er, I have found that in some cases the old work box were attached to the stud proud of the drywall. It’s an easy fix just remove the old work and dry-fit it and ensure the old work box is sitting at the right depth, then reinstall it.
Just loosen the plate screws, then stick a skinny flat bladed screwdriver in the ground prong hole and twist the receptacle to the left or the right to straighten. Then tighten the plate screws. It’s that easy. No need to unscrew completely.
NO BRO angry electrician here. If you really want a quick fix on a garbage looking decora outlet, then get an out door extension cord or plug in style outlet tester plug (some sturdy plug) it in to the outlet and push and turn the outlet faceplate and all on. The direction it needs to go till its straight. If you don't want to crack the plate take it off and turn the outlet with the plug tester or extension cord base. You might pop the plug if there is an untaped hot trouching the ground wire. Or don't put pressure on the general contractor to rush the electrician or rush the electrician then your plugs is straight. I luv drywall braddahs cuz they fix the stuff I broke.
Take the cover off, slightly loosen the screws, plug in a test socket into the outlet and turn to one side. If that doesn't fix it get some long nose pliers and grab the metal tab just under the holding screws and twist it to one side. Firm up the screws and put the cover back on, done.
Another method: Those “ears” on top and bottom of outlet can be bent towards the box, then tighten the screws while keeping outlet square with wall. An outlet tester plugged in is handy for keeping square to wall.
I've known this for a while... But I remember when I figured it out, I felt like Einstein. 😁 However, several outlets have that problem in our house but the wiring is so tight, there's no room to do the bend. 😟
I love your videos but this one is off. I mean, it’s partly right but still wrong. You’ll notice how it was kind of loose when you were “done”, no good. Tighten the outlet down tight to the box and if it still sits cockeyed, you can bend the outlet by pushing or twisting it on the side that sticks out.
Check out my comment above. Also watch videos on how to use a madison. Its an electrical hardware that resolves that issue! I think it costs .47 cents.
The "proper tool" for this is the Rack a Tiers brand Plug Master. I have the older version called the PlugGrip P1 which was cheap but isn't in production anymore. The Plug Master though is even better because it has built in bubble levels which is really handy. The problem with jamming screwdrivers in the grounding prong is you don't equally distribute the force applied and older outlets will break because they have brittle plastic. Also a screwdriver can slightly mess up the ground hole on newer devices with softer plastic. What I secretly wish for is a GFCI version but I just use two male cord ends when a GFCI gives me trouble. If you don't want to shell out $30 dollars two heavy duty cord ends work well enough. Also somewhat related is if your outlet needs spacers behind the mounting screws 3/8 outside diameter PEX Faucet Riser water supply line works great. It's ridiculously cheap, easy to cut to length, and more accurate than using wire twisted around your screwdriver. Another handy product are Caddy brand Wiring Device Retainers. You can slip one on each side of the device if you want.
if the side that is proud is the loose side (not the side attached to the wall studs) you can drive two short drywall screws, top and bottom, into the junction point of the box and the wall stud. This will force the side that is proud to move back into the wall then your faceplate will install flush.
I renovate older apartments and have this issue with GFCI outlets frequently. It can be quite annoying when there is very little room for the wires to sit correctly in the box with just a standard outlet, and when you go to add in a larger GFCI outlet it can be quite challenging to get the wires situated so they don't cause this issue. Especially if the GFCI has more than 2 line wires and 4 load wires exiting from a single gang box.
Sounds like pretty good odds that you are over-capacity on the box if you have all that stuffed in it. It’s important to do the math on conductors and devices in a given box size to stay inside code. www.ideadigitalcontent.com/files/11301/AEC_MC007_Switch_and_Outlet_Boxes_and_Covers.pdf
If you renovate older apartments it shouldn't be a big deal to put in a larger box. It's a bit much for an average homeowner, but a competent diy'er and above skill can do it. You probably know this but another possibility is using a slim design gfci receptacle.
I think the problem is really that you didn't tighten the bolts. You DO want them snug. If the wires can move the outlet, so can everything you plug in. If snugging the bolt completely leaves the outlet recessed too far, you can add spacers.
I am going to be fixing a bunch of outlets. One problem is the 12 gauge wiring. It's very stiff. I have to take it step by step, since some are sunken, some are crooked, some are popping out. Have to figure out which circuits are which. I'll label them, once I do.
Don't they have a plastic screwdriver for removing the painted screws so that the metal doesn't scratch the paint from the slot of the screw. I would at least use tape over the screwdriver to avoid this. i like watching your videos and your pick good topics to talk about. Thanks.
I found the plastic version to be more for DIY. A tight fighting metal screw driver also won't remove the paint. If it happens a 100 count pack of screws is $5. Cheaper and easier to have replacement screws than to switch between a high quality brand name screw driver that a tradesman would be used to using and a cheap plastic one
The builder of my home used 10 gauge solid wire for all the outlets and switches instead of 14 and it's an utter pain in the ass. Not a single one of my outlets is straight because of this stiff wire.
An de-energized wire looks the same as a energized one.. they feel different though. I always like putting one wrap of tape around the receptacle to cover the screws and maybe save someone from getting the busy signal…
Looks like it was installed by the same crop of a arseholes who did my place. I watched one young punk wiring a light fixture, didn't bother attaching the ground wire. "You going to attach that?" I asked. "Oh, we don't bother with those." he replied. "Pack up your fucking tools and get the fuck out of my house and off my property, now." was my response to that.
We have very thick aluminum wire from the '50's i na number of our outlets. I recently replaced the outlet behind the fridge and was having a tough time getting it squared and just gave up and left it as is since it is such a pain to bend and manipulate those wires. It's behind the fridge so why should I care whether the outlet is a bit off in the plate? But now I'm wondering, does it present any sort of fire hazard?
Provided your house is wired correctly and you don't put it in the wrong hole, you can put a flatblade 3/16" screwdriver in the ground pin hole and use that to gently twist the receptacle into place. Just for the love of all things holy don't do those two things. You will suffer electrical shock if you do. - Electrician
This is why you leave 12 inches in excess wire...whether it be hots/neutrals/runners/feeds all should be folded 3-4 times like and accordoan or spring before being connected to device...easily manipulated....I've been doing electrical for 6 months but learned from the very best. So far every inspector "creams them jeans and continually claims "they are the most beautiful boxes" they've ever seen. If you can comment here or somehow message me I can send you a video of what I mean because nobody is doing it the right way.....Also, I have specific question about skim coating over wallpaper.
I'm not sure that I like the design of these North American outlets - assuming these are pretty standard over there. In my country (Australia) the components always fix to the face plate and hence are always correctly aligned. I prefer our pin design too although that's not really of much consequence.
As long as the box is secured properly and the outlet itself is screwed down tight to the box, it's much easier and safer to leave everything as is including the wall plate. Grab an outlet tester that also has a grounded prong and plug it into either one of the sockets and bend/pivot the tester left or right depending on which way you need to make the outlet flush with the trim.
Those screws on the receptacle should be wrapped with electrical tape in the first place. Wiggling around an energized receptacle in a metal box is asking for trouble.
Hi Ben (Vancouver Carpenter) - got a video suggestion. How would you patch holes from plumbers pipes under an installed sink that are way too large for the pipes? (Or are just box cut open with no care) What's an easy way to patch it so that no 'wall critters' can enter!! (Yes, cockroaches!)
I would say lack of using your left hand . Use one hand to hold the outlet in the position you want . Use the other hand to use a drill . Make sure drill is set to 1 on torque so it doesn't screw in to hard .
Yes, the I box may not be square in relation to the wall, side tabs can be bent to compensate, I seen a lot of loose outlet prongs due to people pulling out plug any which way vs. Strait out.
I put a strip of electrical tape over the terminals on both sides before I replace the outlets or switches. This just gives me an extra margin of safety without much trouble.
Your 100% correct. In my house I recently replaced 50+ old and dingy faded yellow receptacles with fresh white decora receptacles. At 3:52, would you do a full tape and mud fix, and taper out several feet, as you did in one of your older videos or do you sometimes do something quick and easy.
Tighten the rec down until the "ears" all make contact with the box or the drywall. Insert a Phillips head screwdriver in the ground hole on the front of the rec and use it like a lever left or right to adjust the rec to align properly. Be careful not to break the plastic.
Yeah, fu*k me right. My life (or even the chance of getting electrocuted) isn't worth taking 30 seconds to switch off a breaker either. I feel your pain. Literally.
Tip from an electrician. Use 3/16 flat screwdriver: jam screwdriver into ground hole on receptacle(perfectly safe). Rotate receptacle using leverage from screwdriver. Doesnt hurt to take cover plate off first because sometime the cover will break when doing this since its brittle. I always enjoy your videos! Keep it up!
@@imasspeons After some of the things I've found buried behind drywall, I dont trust anything to be right until I prove it's right. A neutral bonded ground that lifted can kill you.
@@njineermike I retired after my second kid ("freedom" 35), so I'm not dealing with that stuff anymore, but I had a policy of never touching anything until I'd tested it with a DMM, de-energised it, or sometimes both.
Another quick fix is to stab a small screw driver that will fit snuggly in the ground socket and twist the resceptical that way; however depending on how much wire is in the way, this can't always be done.
Never ever stick a screwdriver into any socket ever!! Suppose you got there and the wires on the receptacle were accidentally in the wrong screws. For example the Hot was mounted to the ground screw and the ground to the hot. Because now you know your outlet doesn’t mean everyone here will get away with that. That is a standard 120 volt outlet enough to kill you. Just check my comment up above to properly and safely resolve this issue.
Plug in a tester and twist, bend the ears, or stick a swivel in the ground prong and twist it. All these things I used to do when devicing. Edit, always want receps pretty snug. Switches don’t matter cause the plate will hold it cause you are not pushing on them. If a recep is not snug, when you plug something in it will move and feel cheap. Maybe that’s just my OCD. I used to get the plumbing sticks for toilet supply water and use them to cut spacers to fix that problem.
I usually just plug in an outlet tester and give it a twist left or right to correct it
Exactly what I was going to say... sometimes, if the outlet is too far in, I’ll wrap some 14GA copper around the screw and cut it to make a custom thickness washer. Then, when it sits out the right depth. Put the cover on and square it with the outlet tester
@@Josephsgarage I usually losen the box screws then take a #6 Robertson and pry out on the two ear loop holes that push it outwards
Dude you're not an electrician quit telling people to do dangerous things. Besides which this is easily remedied by tweaking it with a plug tester or a stout cord end.
@@arlescure actually I am an electrician, there is nothing dangerous about my suggestion, you should stick to what you know and not criticize people on what you don't know. And I don't know what you're talking about because you're just saying what I suggested and making fun of it?
@@arlescure booo
I was going to guess the foundation of the house was off by 3 degrees. I have to say, Tweaking the wires is much easier than shifting the whole house.
Haha, You are correct, And Pretty Funny 😂 Thanks
As an electrician I bend the metal ears or "yoke" as it is referred to, to make it stand proud off the wall. If your outlet is wobbly or too deep, take some wire, wrap it around a Phillips screwdriver and make it like a barber pole, take it off the screwdriver, presto, you have spacers of any size and quantity without the trip to the depot. Also I would recommend 2" 6-32 screws if your device is too deep in the wall in addition to the afformentioned spacers.
You should make a video bout this
Best tip, thank you
After trying to make the adjustments to bring the recessed receptical out flush with the drywall for screwless plates, I decided to give up and go and get spacers tomorrow. It dawned on me that perhaps I could bend the yoke into the box which would hold the receptical out. I haven't tried it yet but will look at that in the morning.
Wow! I'm having this issue on a renovation and this totally makes sense! TYSM! That outlet needs a bump out for sure.
That's just a band-aid, put a plug in and bump into the plug it will put tension back on the wires and twist it. The actual fix are those four tabs on the top and bottom of the switch, you bend those in slightly in toward the box so when you screw the switch to the box they act as a slight stand-off. Try it, I think you'll be even more amazed.
LOVE THIS CHANNEL. That been my approach to them also and it seems to "get ' er dun" even when the box is mounted a bit janky. You just back off the box attachment screws a bit, use some needle nose pliers to bend the tabs accordingly, re-tighten the receptacle attachment screws, check the alignment by simply placing the covering plate on for a visual check (fine tune the tabs as necessary), then attach the covering plate with the finish screws. My OCD (ocular consideration detail) requires that the top screw match the orientation of the bottom - for me its vertical line to make future cleaning easier - now is it really easier, who knows but it satisfies my OCD. hah.
My mind is blown right now and I'm currently questioning reality. Great tip! I had no idea what those tabs were for... Do they also serve another purpose?
Thank you! Also I'm an idiot and broke them ALL of to use as washers between the box and outlet...
Yup, and when you do temp plugs you cut them off so the Drywaller can cut around the box without leaving huge holes at the top and bottom. Either that or you have to pull the plug and jam it into the box, but you better wrap the plug with electrical tap or you are gonna get zapped, especially with metal boxes.
@@MS1022YT this box is slightly different than ones we see in new construction these days. On a modern box those tabs sit flush against the drywall and square it up automatically. Maybe back in the day when drywall was cut by hand around outlets the tabs served for some adjustment
Those of us with OCD thank you... especially for aligning the screw slots!
I can be OCD about things, but the thought of overtightening a screw by 1/4 turn bothers me more than them not looking them same. I screw them down until they feel like they are tight enough.
On a GFCi receptacle if the receptacle is askew that can cause it to trip when it ordinarily would Not e.g. ghost trips, false positives, etc.
As an electrician you work to not have this but I can say there are tools out there that plugs in to both outlets and has an insulated T-Handle that lets you turn it slightly. I’ve seen some guys just keep a spare plug on hand to tweek them. The benefits the tools have is not having to remove the outlet or even the cover. Sometimes it’s from the metal getting slightly bent as can happen when you buy in bulk. My T-Handle also has a built in led to inform that the outlet is energized.
I have used an outlet tester in a similar fashion to what you describe.
I just use a trim screwdriver in the ground and turn , has always been fine
There used to be a tool called a plug grip that did that, but you can't find it anymore. I treat mine like they're made of pure unobtanium.
If they just stopped cheaping out and making the metal parts of the plugs and switches from recycled tin cans and made them a little thicker, this wouldn't be an issue, but some bean counter somewhere needed to save 5 cents on every 100 plugs. I'm sure you can get commercial grade switches with thicker metal tabs, and probably better contacts too
Four minutes and fourteen seconds and it still looks like crap. The receptacle needs to end up flush on all four sides and not all loosy-goosy. Not to mention that the rough drywall cut-out is fully visible on the LHS. Not acceptable by my standards, Not even close.
Spend all the time you want but homeowners will pull the vacuum cord sideways and you can start all over again. Eventually I will get paid to change it and it will start over again. Just putting my kids through college.
Use a receptacle tester. No need to pull plate or receptacle. Plug in tester and use as an adjustment tool. Try it, it works. Adjust your whole house in minutes!
The four tabs are there to offset that tension, I bend them with needle nose pliers. Also, if you leave the outlet a bit loose in the box and use a high quality cover plate, you can snug the outlet up onto the cover which will keep it square. Good advice though, and always a good idea to first make sure the outlet is as square as possible before covering...
Those unbreakable plates are the key to "floating" warranty work close to a electrical box. Drywall is smooth but never flat. Its an illusion of straight that most people don't realize
This. The tabs are especially useful if the box face isn't quite parallel to the wall.
I agree.
Over time with use the receptacle will become loose and create a hazard. It should always be tight
I switched to nylon cover plates and have never gone back. They are essentially impossible to break.
Electrician here, I change out atleast a few hundred receptacles a month and hate leaving my work looking like a handyman did it...
Anyways, there's a few tricks to this depending on the situation, but I've found the best way is to use a Klein plug-in tester to shift it flush with your cover plate.
Extended device screws (6-32) also helps in terms of creating the correct depth. You will need to cut the screws to correct lengths, but you can really fine tune your plugs this way. Especially if you got an uneven wall to mess with :)
@Castlebury21 Journeyman electrician here. I like to call them plugs. Nitpicking definitions is more like an apprentice.
@@chadwickv2 oh thank god we have a Journeyman here. I've always wondered what the difference between an L5-15R and an L5-15P is? I mean on the NEMA chart all the P's and R's look the same. I guess the letters don't mean anything.
This sort of thing is the reason we have “call backs” in electrical contracts. You need to use them. The apprentice that screwed it up needs to fix it. You’re not doing anyone a favor by doing it yourself. They need to learn.
If you screwed it up, it’s your problem.
As obsessive as I am, I don't think I've ever given much thought to how I leave the screws..
Well, thanks... This will give me something to do Saturday morning! lol :) :)
Actually, isn't that what those little tabs either side of the mounting screw are for, you bend them back a bit with a pliers, even on both sides, so they touch the box when you tighten the screw, and hold it even? Then you can make them offset if the box isn't quite square, and get the plug level. Otherwise you're relying on the wiring in the box to hold the outlet forwards and at the right angle, which doesn't seem right to me...
Bending the tabs works. The other thing is that he mentioned not snugging it up real tight which is what I used to do. You don’t want it real loose either but often times tightening the plate down will bring the receptacle into the right position because the plate lays flat on the wall and pulls the receptacle into the plate.
Yeah as long as the drywaller gets nice and tight against the box, the tabs will hold the outlet flush against the outer drywall surface. It won’t matter if the box is cockeyed.
Correct on all 3 comments here! Yes you can snip them off at top and/or bottom. They are pre shaped from the manufacturer and easily bendable to snip off with pliers. This is commonly done for 3 gang boxes or more.
This is the second video I’ve watched you repair a receptacle box or device. What you’re really doing here is shaming the Vancouver electrician 🤣
If you do a lot of replacing cover plates, as is often when a room is painted, the switches and plugs get will sometimes have been replaced/updated as well. Singles are not too bad, but doubles and triples are a bit of a pain sometimes. It's a good idea to have (in your toolbox) a double and a triple plate, and drill some large access holes where the hold down screws for the switches would be. Then use this plate backwards to hold the switches the right distance apart and in alignment while you access the screws to anchor them down. You can then flip the plate over to check to see if any of them need spacing out (such as with Caterpillar Spacer Shims (from IDEAL at Homer Despots) or twisting side to side to align. Once all is good and they are aligned and secure, install your actual cover plate.
You are the only other person I've heard say this in my life. I figured it out on a 5 gang (reversing the plate) and ever since then carry around all the sizes in between. Well done mate I am glad to learn that it isn't an over engineered concept
It's in my toolkit as well! Great minds think alike...
Great idea!
If you install an outlet plate and you don't orient the screw heads evenly up or down, you're not human. I'm a horzontal man myself, but it drives me nuts when I see them crooked.
I guess that's why I cut sandwiches like a psycho also. Lol
I tighten them until I feel like they are torqued down properly. If they match, then cool. If not, that’s cool too. As long as they aren’t over or under torqued.
Yeah. I’m a horizontal guy myself too. Doing it vertical takes too much effort.
@@fritzb.3978 I think if the screws were on the sides, I'd go vertical.
touch the bolts. 110 feels great
But lick your fingers first.
@@scottbowie189 get into a bathtub first
I have always found the best test of whether a 15A circuit is live, is to tap a finger on the hot lead. Makes you feel like a real man, and also it keeps you awake for another couple of hours 😂
110 not bad, 220, ouch!
@@pointedspider Try 440.... itll feel like you stopped a freight train ( yes, experience from a hidden bare wire ) no fun at all.
I bend the "ears" slightly if needed. This is a good fix if you're installing two or more light switches or outlets. I had an OCD moment while installing a gang of three panel switches in my living room wall. Bending the ears was the only method that worked.
I always wrap electrical tape around the outlet to cover up the screws holding the wires before pushing the outlet into the box.
All pros do!
@@monkeygraborange bs they do. That's such a pain later. All that does is slide around over time and leave a sticky mess for the next person.
@@mark22732 I have worked for contractors that would fire you for wrapping receptacles with tape. Tape costs $$$.
@@mark22732 Can confirm. Real electricians hate people that do this.
@@monkeygraborange no, we don't. The only reason to tape the terminals on a device is if you're leaving it loose for tile or drywall coming in after you.
That's the reason I don't like those square plugs. They are just too large to fit in regular boxes, especially if you have multiple wires.
What about if the box is sticking out on one side? You have another video of the box is out of square. Any tips on how to solve this on freshly painted walls?
Dude! You were extremely lucky on that one. The bare screws (terminal screws) are always energized regardless of side or back wired. Had you touched the device to the box, would have had a nice bzzzzzt! The box IS grounded. Recommend (power off, but know most don’t do this, even me) NOT entirely removing mounting/wall screws, leave enough thread in wall-box. This should allow enough grasp on device bracket to nudge left and right, but actually not even grasp the brackets, just simply place face of your flattened thumb on face of finished face-you’ll see the device rock back and forth. When re-securing, take wall-plate without the screws and see if it sits smooth on all sides, then last the finish screws, not tight its just holding the plate. FYI...if and when pulling-out any device, the wires within box are moved creating a potential short. That’s why mentioning try to not remove devices entirely due a wire may move to the pathway of screws removed when re-securing device...may pierce an energized wire. ⚡️⚡️
Check out my comment above and yes by pushing it down w your thumb on the face of the receptacle and screwing it in evenly and slow is very simple to get it squared. First shut off power and always wrap the receptacles w/ electrical tape covering all the terminals. Then bend the wires almost like a v shape and tuck into back of box. Then screw it in! After your 1st time should take 5 min. Remember power must be off before working on live loads. Safety first.
Another way... I found a pair of "duck bill" channel locks at a flea market and snatched them up ($2) for this very purpose.
You have to make sure the power is off.
I have electrical tape wrapped around the jaws.
Just loosen the screws a bit
I can grab the sides of the receptacle or switch and twist it to the desired postion.
Tighten the screws.
A friend who is an electrician saw mine but was never able to find a pair like them so he made his own by grinding down the jaws (thinnner, not shorter) and welded on some 1" KOs and he says they stay on his truck and he never fights this issue anymore.
Great tip. I have a few of these in the house I haven't got to yet.
Why would you NOT turn off the power? And when pushing on the wires you need to check for possible damage to insulation and over bending. Plus make sure the screws are tight. Then with the device pulled out straighten the wires up then bend the wires so they fold up as you push the device into the box
Hi Ben! Sorry to bother you, I have a question! My mom Lynn is undertaking a HUGE project by herself remodeling our kitchen. She watches your videos constantly and loves them! She feels like she can tackle this project thanks to you. I was wondering if you had a spare moment if you wouldn’t mind making a little shout out video for her to keep her encouraged? Even if it’s like 30 seconds long I know it would mean a lot to her! Thanks for your time 🤗
Just a tip if the box is metal electric tape over the screw terminals is aways a good idea and if not it still doesnt hurt to wrap around outlets and switches to protect you your tools and then you can work on them hot with no worries
Good advice! I have experienced replacing a GFCI in an apartment bathroom and having it work fine for about 6 months until one day recently the resident plugged something in and it arced from one of the screws to the metal box and tripped the breaker. It might work fine when you install it, but with some of the smaller boxes the tolerance is so close that it is a good idea to wrap the screws every time. Lesson learned.
Hi Ben, can you make a video showing what to do if the electrical box is installed too far behind the drywall (ie. Not sticking out far enough from the stud). Thank you
Just use some washers to bring the outlet out further.
daniel green Use something like “. Ideal Industries 772453 “. I used them when I did a tile backsplash in our kitchen. Use one or more. They kind of snap together like Legos if you need more thickness. . Available at big box stores
Trend Investor - Washers will get you flagged if there is an electrical inspection, they do not meet code. As the other poster noted, Caterpillar Spacer Shims (from IDEAL at Homer Despots) do the trick. I wish they were a bit more "solid" when stacked pretty deep, especially when I'm trying to have the outlet not bear on any glass tiles, but that's what's available.
Alternatively, you can use a "box extension" (plastic or metal) to give the bearing surface you need.
Having a handful of longer #6 screws on hand is also handy, as sometimes the box is so far back the regular screws won't reach.
Sorry no experience of Canadian 2 pin sockets, but can you bend down the four metal tabs a bit ( one at each corner ) to stop it wobbling about. Then gently tighten the two socket retaining screws, before trial fit on the faceplate. Those tabs must have some function. I recommend turn the power off, and prove dead, before starting work, as e.g. you could have faulty protection at the switchboard, and get a bigger splash than you expect if a wire breaks off. All that said, real nice to see you sorting these details. In UK some plasters panel over sockets, because they don't want to sort them out ( only electricians allowed to fiddle with sockets here . . . )
Here is an even easier method. Take the cover plate off, loosen the screws to the outlet a bit, insert a circuit polarity tester and use it as leverage to straighten the outlet angle. (You should be testing the polarity after every install anyway.) Works great... very easy with 14 gauge wire, a bit more troublesome with 12 gauge. Really tough if there is a 12 gauge pass through with 4 conductors and a ground connected!
Exactly. I've done that method for over 40 years.
Brilliant!
Polarity is not the right word, unless you are using DC to wire your house.
I always like to get my wires positioned the best that I can into the back of the box so that they generally do not twist the outlet one way or the other. With tight boxes and many devices in the Box sometimes it is hard to get it just right.
@Jason Bowman
The junction box in the ceiling must still stay accessible to meet code, just in case you did not know that.
My cousin and i had this discussion about that very issue. We both do most of our own home renovations. He's OCD when doing most things . The reason that he found out was due to installing the outlet box to tight when putting nails in the side of the box and allow a little space for flexablity. That could be another reason. Your channel is good. I like actual work enviroment scenrios. Thank you
How do you fix this?!?! This is the issue I am running into.
You can use a small piece of wood to move the wires without having to unscrew the plug. The telco guys call them an orange stick.
Funny thing, I have tried this before after I've confirmed that the drywall is flush and the outlets are still slightly off. Good tip Ben.
From my humble opinion from a DIY’er, I have found that in some cases the old work box were attached to the stud proud of the drywall. It’s an easy fix just remove the old work and dry-fit it and ensure the old work box is sitting at the right depth, then reinstall it.
you can use the electric tester plug in and twist around make them perfect
I call them "plug straighteners" I swear. Hahaha
Also, pair of small screw drivers in the two ground prongs works in a jiffy also.
same
I broke the ground off my plug tester from doing that too much lol
You have great videos. I've learned so much watching them. When are you going to do a video on how to wash a car? 😁
Just loosen the plate screws, then stick a skinny flat bladed screwdriver in the ground prong hole and twist the receptacle to the left or the right to straighten. Then tighten the plate screws. It’s that easy. No need to unscrew completely.
A man who likes to live dangerous. I love it lol.
NO BRO angry electrician here. If you really want a quick fix on a garbage looking decora outlet, then get an out door extension cord or plug in style outlet tester plug (some sturdy plug) it in to the outlet and push and turn the outlet faceplate and all on. The direction it needs to go till its straight. If you don't want to crack the plate take it off and turn the outlet with the plug tester or extension cord base. You might pop the plug if there is an untaped hot trouching the ground wire. Or don't put pressure on the general contractor to rush the electrician or rush the electrician then your plugs is straight. I luv drywall braddahs cuz they fix the stuff I broke.
Take the cover off, slightly loosen the screws, plug in a test socket into the outlet and turn to one side.
If that doesn't fix it get some long nose pliers and grab the metal tab just under the holding screws and twist it to one side.
Firm up the screws and put the cover back on, done.
Another method: Those “ears” on top and bottom of outlet can be bent towards the box, then tighten the screws while keeping outlet square with wall. An outlet tester plugged in is handy for keeping square to wall.
I've known this for a while... But I remember when I figured it out, I felt like Einstein. 😁
However, several outlets have that problem in our house but the wiring is so tight, there's no room to do the bend. 😟
I love your videos but this one is off. I mean, it’s partly right but still wrong. You’ll notice how it was kind of loose when you were “done”, no good. Tighten the outlet down tight to the box and if it still sits cockeyed, you can bend the outlet by pushing or twisting it on the side that sticks out.
I usually stick a small shank screw driver into the ground and give her a lil twist. Also you could bend those lil tabs on the receptacle.
Sometimes the box isnt installed correctly or the stud it is attached to isnt square to begin with
I come across this often, sometimes they only use the front mounting holes and the box doesn’t align correctly
Check out my comment above. Also watch videos on how to use a madison. Its an electrical hardware that resolves that issue! I think it costs .47 cents.
Thanks for the tip. I hope I don't get zapped if I try to do this one day
The "proper tool" for this is the Rack a Tiers brand Plug Master. I have the older version called the PlugGrip P1 which was cheap but isn't in production anymore. The Plug Master though is even better because it has built in bubble levels which is really handy. The problem with jamming screwdrivers in the grounding prong is you don't equally distribute the force applied and older outlets will break because they have brittle plastic. Also a screwdriver can slightly mess up the ground hole on newer devices with softer plastic. What I secretly wish for is a GFCI version but I just use two male cord ends when a GFCI gives me trouble. If you don't want to shell out $30 dollars two heavy duty cord ends work well enough.
Also somewhat related is if your outlet needs spacers behind the mounting screws 3/8 outside diameter PEX Faucet Riser water supply line works great. It's ridiculously cheap, easy to cut to length, and more accurate than using wire twisted around your screwdriver.
Another handy product are Caddy brand Wiring Device Retainers. You can slip one on each side of the device if you want.
Coil scrap ground wire around a terminal driver in a spiral, then cut with diagonal pliers.
Instant spacer, custom sized.
What do you do when the box itself has been installed improperly and it is proud of the drywall on one side?
if the side that is proud is the loose side (not the side attached to the wall studs) you can drive two short drywall screws, top and bottom, into the junction point of the box and the wall stud. This will force the side that is proud to move back into the wall then your faceplate will install flush.
I renovate older apartments and have this issue with GFCI outlets frequently. It can be quite annoying when there is very little room for the wires to sit correctly in the box with just a standard outlet, and when you go to add in a larger GFCI outlet it can be quite challenging to get the wires situated so they don't cause this issue. Especially if the GFCI has more than 2 line wires and 4 load wires exiting from a single gang box.
Sounds like pretty good odds that you are over-capacity on the box if you have all that stuffed in it. It’s important to do the math on conductors and devices in a given box size to stay inside code. www.ideadigitalcontent.com/files/11301/AEC_MC007_Switch_and_Outlet_Boxes_and_Covers.pdf
Jim K Actually a GFCI is almost twice as thick as a standard outlet, taking volume and forcing wire against the back of the box.
Tony Manero that’s my point, too much in the box.
Tony Manero - there are shallow and deep boxes; it’s tough to fit a GFCI into a shallow box, but piece of cake with a deep box.
If you renovate older apartments it shouldn't be a big deal to put in a larger box. It's a bit much for an average homeowner, but a competent diy'er and above skill can do it. You probably know this but another possibility is using a slim design gfci receptacle.
Is it dangerous to have one really crooked? I got the face plate to sit flush but crookedness is really noticeable
I think the problem is really that you didn't tighten the bolts. You DO want them snug. If the wires can move the outlet, so can everything you plug in. If snugging the bolt completely leaves the outlet recessed too far, you can add spacers.
I am going to be fixing a bunch of outlets. One problem is the 12 gauge wiring. It's very stiff. I have to take it step by step, since some are sunken, some are crooked, some are popping out. Have to figure out which circuits are which. I'll label them, once I do.
Don't they have a plastic screwdriver for removing the painted screws so that the metal doesn't scratch the paint from the slot of the screw. I would at least use tape over the screwdriver to avoid this. i like watching your videos and your pick good topics to talk about. Thanks.
I found the plastic version to be more for DIY. A tight fighting metal screw driver also won't remove the paint. If it happens a 100 count pack of screws is $5. Cheaper and easier to have replacement screws than to switch between a high quality brand name screw driver that a tradesman would be used to using and a cheap plastic one
@@NickRgibbs Thanks for an alternative solution, i will check out the replacement screws
The builder of my home used 10 gauge solid wire for all the outlets and switches instead of 14 and it's an utter pain in the ass. Not a single one of my outlets is straight because of this stiff wire.
3:52 ... how *do* you fix overcuts like that ... I've got 67 switches and receptacles and 90% probably all have one side that shows overcut.
They make oversized outlet covers.
An de-energized wire looks the same as a energized one.. they feel different though.
I always like putting one wrap of tape around the receptacle to cover the screws and maybe save someone from getting the busy signal…
Looks like it was installed by the same crop of a arseholes who did my place. I watched one young punk wiring a light fixture, didn't bother attaching the ground wire. "You going to attach that?" I asked. "Oh, we don't bother with those." he replied. "Pack up your fucking tools and get the fuck out of my house and off my property, now." was my response to that.
We have very thick aluminum wire from the '50's i na number of our outlets. I recently replaced the outlet behind the fridge and was having a tough time getting it squared and just gave up and left it as is since it is such a pain to bend and manipulate those wires. It's behind the fridge so why should I care whether the outlet is a bit off in the plate? But now I'm wondering, does it present any sort of fire hazard?
Provided your house is wired correctly and you don't put it in the wrong hole, you can put a flatblade 3/16" screwdriver in the ground pin hole and use that to gently twist the receptacle into place. Just for the love of all things holy don't do those two things. You will suffer electrical shock if you do.
- Electrician
This is why you leave 12 inches in excess wire...whether it be hots/neutrals/runners/feeds all should be folded 3-4 times like and accordoan or spring before being connected to device...easily manipulated....I've been doing electrical for 6 months but learned from the very best. So far every inspector "creams them jeans and continually claims "they are the most beautiful boxes" they've ever seen.
If you can comment here or somehow message me I can send you a video of what I mean because nobody is doing it the right way.....Also, I have specific question about skim coating over wallpaper.
Do you leave that much wire when working with shallow boxes? Just wondering ...
I'm not sure that I like the design of these North American outlets - assuming these are pretty standard over there. In my country (Australia) the components always fix to the face plate and hence are always correctly aligned. I prefer our pin design too although that's not really of much consequence.
As long as the box is secured properly and the outlet itself is screwed down tight to the box, it's much easier and safer to leave everything as is including the wall plate. Grab an outlet tester that also has a grounded prong and plug it into either one of the sockets and bend/pivot the tester left or right depending on which way you need to make the outlet flush with the trim.
With the cover on Or off
Nevermind I’m blind
If you don't already know the correct way to fix the outlet orientation, don't open the outlet gang box.
Those screws on the receptacle should be wrapped with electrical tape in the first place. Wiggling around an energized receptacle in a metal box is asking for trouble.
Looked bad when you started and still looked bad when you were done.
Vancouver Carpenter meets Electroboom! Sometimes those wires can exert a truly mighty force!
Hi Ben (Vancouver Carpenter) - got a video suggestion. How would you patch holes from plumbers pipes under an installed sink that are way too large for the pipes? (Or are just box cut open with no care) What's an easy way to patch it so that no 'wall critters' can enter!! (Yes, cockroaches!)
My friend, you could benefit from an electrical screwdriver. This is very painful to watch.
Just stick a cord or tester in it and manipulate it. Taking the plate off and pulling the receptacle out is SO unnecessary 99% of the time.
I would say lack of using your left hand .
Use one hand to hold the outlet in the position you want .
Use the other hand to use a drill .
Make sure drill is set to 1 on torque so it doesn't screw in to hard .
Yes, the I box may not be square in relation to the wall, side tabs can be bent to compensate, I seen a lot of loose outlet prongs due to people pulling out plug any which way vs. Strait out.
That gets solved better with a piece of folded paper behind the up and down bolts that secure the accesory , the thight with more force and ready.
I use a plug tester and plug it in the the receptical and twist it and it usually works.
shocked and excited to learn electrical DIY tips from Just Keep Skating
I put a strip of electrical tape over the terminals on both sides before I replace the outlets or switches. This just gives me an extra margin of safety without much trouble.
I usually take a screw driver that's insulated And stab it in the ground Prong And maneuver The outlet like that But just try to be careful
Always shut the power first and just do it by hand! Bend the wires in a v shape and tuck in back of box and then screw it evenly.
I’ve got one that’s out of square where there top receptacle leans inward but there’s not enough wire in there to square it off
Your 100% correct. In my house I recently replaced 50+ old and dingy faded yellow receptacles with fresh white decora receptacles. At 3:52, would you do a full tape and mud fix, and taper out several feet, as you did in one of your older videos or do you sometimes do something quick and easy.
stick 2 flat screwdrivers in the neutral slot and adjust
It has to due with the electrician not taking pride in his work. Says a fellow electrician.
Tighten the rec down until the "ears" all make contact with the box or the drywall. Insert a Phillips head screwdriver in the ground hole on the front of the rec and use it like a lever left or right to adjust the rec to align properly. Be careful not to break the plastic.
could you bend the metal wings to the left and right of the screws to create counter tension? maybe? just spitballing here.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I thought I was the only person that was OCD about making sure the screw heads were all facing the same direction.
I learned you can work without shut power off, as long as not touching the screws
Sparky here, I just stick my plug tester in it and give er a good twist!
what if the box IS crooked for some really bad prior repair?
Thank you for showing us real world scenarios, not some imaginary "ideal" where the power is off.
Because finding breakers is difficult?
Yeah, fu*k me right. My life (or even the chance of getting electrocuted) isn't worth taking 30 seconds to switch off a breaker either. I feel your pain. Literally.
$90 USD/hour electricians can't be bothered to do this
For someone (me) who is a perfectionist never ever considered fixing the nails to line up..............we love you.
The nails in the box?
What if your box isn't square? Use an extension plate?
The outlet is touching the wires, and you can tell by it's faces how that feels. Turn off the breaker... :)
Tip from an electrician. Use 3/16 flat screwdriver: jam screwdriver into ground hole on receptacle(perfectly safe). Rotate receptacle using leverage from screwdriver. Doesnt hurt to take cover plate off first because sometime the cover will break when doing this since its brittle. I always enjoy your videos! Keep it up!
That's a huge assumption that it's wired correctly.
I would never advise a homeowner to do any electrical work without first turning off the power.
@@calbert1735 If they have a live ground prong they ve got bigger problems than a crooked receptacle!
@@haydenluck also the breaker would have tripped on a live ground bond unless they really messed up the terminations in the panel too.
@@imasspeons After some of the things I've found buried behind drywall, I dont trust anything to be right until I prove it's right. A neutral bonded ground that lifted can kill you.
@@njineermike I retired after my second kid ("freedom" 35), so I'm not dealing with that stuff anymore, but I had a policy of never touching anything until I'd tested it with a DMM, de-energised it, or sometimes both.
Another quick fix is to stab a small screw driver that will fit snuggly in the ground socket and twist the resceptical that way; however depending on how much wire is in the way, this can't always be done.
Never ever stick a screwdriver into any socket ever!! Suppose you got there and the wires on the receptacle were accidentally in the wrong screws. For example the Hot was mounted to the ground screw and the ground to the hot. Because now you know your outlet doesn’t mean everyone here will get away with that. That is a standard 120 volt outlet enough to kill you. Just check my comment up above to properly and safely resolve this issue.
Good thing for this video. I'm dealing with this right now
Plug in a tester and twist, bend the ears, or stick a swivel in the ground prong and twist it. All these things I used to do when devicing.
Edit, always want receps pretty snug. Switches don’t matter cause the plate will hold it cause you are not pushing on them. If a recep is not snug, when you plug something in it will move and feel cheap. Maybe that’s just my OCD. I used to get the plumbing sticks for toilet supply water and use them to cut spacers to fix that problem.
my electrician said to put electrical tape around the whole plug once. this will stop the screws from hitting the box and arching.