12:08 Thank you so much for going through the effort and time of setting up the tripod. I is extremely helpful to see how you struggled with it and solved it. Thank you.
That was the most uncomfortable video I’ve watched on TH-cam 😅 Even more respect for my mechanic who recently replaced a tensioner washer! Great job, cheers
Your perseverance for our benefit is appreciated. That bottom tensioner would have sent me swearing and threatening to sell the car ! You’re a bigger man than I am .
Got to be the chain guides? You can trust Jake Raby. He is the foremost Expert on these engines! He was instrumental in finding my 996. BTW, Jake did the IMS, AOS, Water Pump, Clutch etal. on my now current 996. I Love this Porsche. Thanks to Jake Raby !! OOHRAH ! Marine !! Job Well Done ! My Friend ! HooAh !!
@@HelpMeDIY yeah me either. Especially doing them one at a time . Because then you don’t get EVEN ANY SLACK IN THE CHAINS . Lol I bought the damn locking kit tho. Only because I’m gonna do the ims & etc . But I’m gonna say they are no definites on this subject because Porsche (and others) want you to buy a kit & or take it to a mechanic. 💁♂️
Aaron great job as usual, I just did a oil change, I have a 2003 Boxster S with 102,000 miles. I have had it for four years and change my oil at least twice a year and then have it analyzed at Blackstone and everything has come back good over that time. Now I found small black flex of plastic in my oil filter about (20) 1 mm size,I then drop the oil sump pan and found 20 more pieces of black plastic much larger 1/8” to 3/16”all black, some of the pieces have rounded edges and were thicker, then a bearing seal plate. IMS was replaced in 2007. As I said, they’re all black and not the caramel colored pieces you would find with a chain tensioner so I’m at a bit of a loss do you or any of your community of friends, have any ideas? As always, you have a great content, and you are not afraid to show the good and the mistakes of being your own mechanic. thanks, TOM.
Just completed the replacement of the bottom two tensioners on my '98 Boxster thanks to this video. The cam locking tool listed in the description from eBay is no longer available (12 pieces sold out). However, there is a Finnish company selling a similar and suitable tool that requires removal of only the lower cylinder plug (9products.com Cam lock tool p/n 9p-tt-96-1). This locking tool will require a separate M8 hex bolt for installation. M8 x 30mm is, in my opinion, too long and M8x15 or M8 x 20 are more suitable (extra minutes under the car turning bolts are wasted minutes). For the specific job outlined in this video (replacement of the bank 1-3 tensioner and IMS shaft tensioner with the motor still in the car), the other timing tool kits listed in the video description are of no use. The TDC lock can be performed with another M8 bolt, roughly M8 x 50mm, or alternately a very short 5/16 drill bit. The factory tensioners have a very short stroke with a non-linear spring rate (the initial push is easy, the push gets harder and then bottoms out quickly). The replacement tensioners are slightly longer as noted in the video, the stroke is longer, and the spring tension is consistent. I used a 32mm socket and a 24" breaker bar to loosen the original tensioners, which both gave way with a satisfying snap. Unfortunately, this procedure did not solve my particular start-up rattle. I will have to tackle the upper tensioner (bank 4-6) next. From my initial probing, the key to removing the factory tensioner is a 32mm 12-point socket and an 90-tooth ratchet (as narrow as possible, possibly 3/8 drive with a 1/2 adaptor). This tool combination will allow sufficient clearance to torque out the old tensioner. - you need to be higher than the hard line in front, lower than the A/C compressor, and you need to avoid running into the side of the access panel opening with the ratchet handle. Installation of the replacement tensioner looks like it will require a low profile 14mm Allan bit given the space constraints (A/C compressor above, hard line in front). As noted in the follow up video, the A/C compressor can be loosened off by undoing 3 - 13mm bolts, two with a ratcheting wrench and one with a socket on an extension providing about an inch of extra clearance. Cheers Aaron for all your effort in creating these videos. Can you make the t-shirts available in cotton (and other colors)?
Nice work Aaron. My tip on the bottom tensioner is to use a bottle jack and some wood to apply a little upward pressure while you catch the first thread with a wrench. It's still fiddly as you have to inch it up real slow so as not to damage the thread whilst also rotating the tensioner with a wrench. I found it easier than trying to muscle it in. Is there a reason why you didn't change the tensioner by the A/C pump? It's fiddly but easy enough; you have to remove the belt and take out a couple of the mounting bolts from above with the top in the service position. Cheers
+Peter Sutcliffe thanks! Yeah, I didn’t change it because my research indicated that it probably wasn’t my issue and that it was hard to reach. Not sure of the first but was true or not but here we are 🤷♂️
It seems to me that the tensioner being spring loaded cannot collapse that far when the car stands for some time, should be similar to how far hydraulic valve lifter would collapse. I am not sure that a slight rattle on start that immediately goes away once oil pressure reaches the tensioner is a problem however the plastic bits in the filter are more alarming. My car is also showing the plastic bits so am looking forward to seeing how the chain guides are replaced.
+Richard Calon like you, I can’t really wrap my head around HOW that would cause the rattle, I was just repeating what I had read. But I can confirm that the new tensioners DID resolve the rattle on startup!
@@HelpMeDIY My concern would be that the additional tension from the new tensioners would mask wear on the cam chain guides and perhaps accelerate wear and failure of those plastic parts. Haven't read much about guide failure but am sure like almost everything in these engines it would be catastrophic.
+Peter Brown actually after I figured out the fell it was really easy. Taking the belt off would have taken a lot more time. Rails are definitely not ok though. 😢
While it is at TDC, mark the two indicators with red or white paint ( timing marks on the case and the crank wheel) then you will see them every time easier. I use my wives white fingernail polish because it has a brush to apply to the marks.
+BranchOffice thanks! In think I mentioned it in the video, but two reasons. First, that one supposedly doesn’t cause issues as much as the other two. Second, that one is much harder to get to.
So mine making some horrible noises pretty sure have it down to a tensioner failed after what sounded like knocking now grinding but still turns over will this fix that issue or will I need to go in and place chains back on or how does this work little confused
Thanks for the great video. How did you confirm bank one was locked if you didn’t remove the single green cover with the half slot that should be pointing in the 3 o’clock position?
those green plugs are a total ball ache to get out, you only need the 1/2 lock tool on a 5 chain motor, the 5 chain motor only has the notch on the exhaust cam, 3 chain has notch on both cams an the longer lock tool is used for the 3 chain
Yeah my comment was 1/2 way through the video, had similar issues when doing the ims and clutch replacement on my 03 S, your vids are extremely helpful
The full tool to lock the exhaust cam also locates the intake cam when removing the cam cover. When the cam cover is removed the cams are located at the driven end by separate cam caps and unsecured at the non driven end,. Unless both cams are securely located, valve spring pressure will be applied to the unsecured ends of the cams unless they are locked by the tool. I am not sure how much damage not securing the cams will do but it is not worth the risk of not securing them.
I just started noticing a little rattling at start in mine a couple months ago. And I Found my first bits of plastic like yours in the filter today. So I’ll be doing this very shortly. Ty again brother. Lol. I’ve done 7 of your projects so far. Btw ? Did you find any very small aluminum shavings in yours ?
@@HelpMeDIY I have been keeping a close eye on my filters for every change. For the first time I found these things in mine. But I noticed the rattle worse after the car setting longer. My shavings is aluminum. Not steel thank god. I think that’s from the chain rubbing on start ups after leaking off. I got tensioners coming & I’ll be changing my oil more often from now on to keep an eye on it. I have always done my own work. And I have a couple of decades experience in building & rebuilding Rock crawlers /jeeps & rear ends & Heavy equipment diesel mechanic etc . But I had been very happy until this last oil change . Never anything. I don’t think the metal is because soft a sheered bolt off the Ims or something. So I’ll eventually be pulling the oil pan to see if my chain guilds has completely gone and that is the aluminum from them cracking away. I just think they would be more in my filter if that was the case. I’m just not sure . So I’ll be pulling the oil pan to check when I have it on a rack to change the tensioners. And probably doing the normal ims barring & seal when I do the clutch & stuff then . Lol. I think I had a gf do a rev up on Immediate start once. 🤦♂️. I told her the deal after Lol. But I think that’s where the very small shavings has come from. As we say in the diesel world I’m at the stage of . “YA JUST HAVTO RUN IT & WATCH IT “ stage in a disappointment. Lol.
@@HelpMeDIY Just a guess obvious. But I’m going to say yours wasn’t from that drilling. It’s because of the chain looser & rubbing the sides on start up like mine . Especially if they are real fine consistency like mine. Drilling in doesnt usually produce shavings like this. Or their results from it in the oil filter (They won’t be all consistent in size & very thin flakes like this. They literally look like gold panning flakes. They would be chunks even if some are a different size & or circulating in the oil . ..if they were from the drilling that is . ) Even if the been circulating in the oil they won’t look like I’ve got. You need to Keep an eye on it. Do a couple of oil changes at around 2 or 3 k. (Half as normal) & keep a check on it & you’ll know . It could be from being shaved off the variocam . Which happens to some after a while & guides are gone . But that would be steel & no aluminum. You probably heard this as part of the discussion when you went to do the other video. Which I noticed you deleted btw. Lol. Wut ? Was the Comments getting too hot ? Lol Cuz it was a good video.
@@HelpMeDIY Did your rattle quit? Finally getting to do mine today. I had a major shipping issue (lost part and time to finally get to do it ) I came back for a refresher. I noticed you added the part on not removing the top cap (yeah. I got the same tool as you lol. And used your link & stuff to give ya a little cut of it lol 👍) Just wondering ?💁♂️.
Hey just curious how did you lock camshaft for each side bank you're working on? I would think to look in spark plug hole for each side to know which bank you've set to TDC? Or maybe it wasn't needed from the looks of it? Edit, saw you had the TDC mark on the other bank. Guess maybe you didn't need tdc if not locking each bank as you work on that side?
When I follow the link in your description to purchase the "Porsche Cylinder Head Plug", the website says "6 required". Is that for a total rebuild or something? I thought it was only 1 each?
Hey can u give me some advice on replacing the bolt on the back side of the tension pulley of a 2006 Porsche Cayman S. It’s a 15 mm but the hex has rounded off I can’t figure out how to get the bar removed from the motor
+Artie Brosonski that’s tough. I’ve never had to deal with something like that luckily. I’d just look up some TH-cam videos on rounded bolts and see if anything helpful comes up
@@HelpMeDIY well I found out how to get that rounded bolt off! It’s a job . You have to take throttle body off. Because the shaft goes in to the block. Once that’s out the way u can see the shaft. It’s got a set screw inside of the shaft that must come out before you can remove the whole thing! Once it’s off it allows u to change the bolt for the tension pulley.
I have a 2001 boxster with green bits in the oil last oil change. I've heard it was likely to be from the o-rings on these guys. Anyone know if that's true? I believe brown bits would've been timing chain guides, but these were more of a pale green.
Humm? After days of sitting, my chains rattle for a second. Loudly. 58K on the engine (well sorted w/ LN IMS, AOS, Water Pump, Clutch). I don't like to hear that chain rattle at start up. What should I replace to stop this noise?
I'm gonna have to check for the plastic bits in oil filter next oil change. To my knowledge everything else should be good to go for a while. My 09' 987.2 Boxster I just got has been a fun daily driver so far with just under 50k miles. Already did a tune up. I replaced spark plugs which might've been original, MAF Sensor, engine air filter, cabin filter, gas cap, and oil change. I also replaced the blown speakers. I'm about $2000 in repairs so far, but I'm glad I was able to DIY most of these things. I fully appreciate your vids!
When you pull off the caps ? That mark needs to be straight up to get the other locking tool in place. & that tells you if you need to do another half rotation (or more .). Because that’s the goal of getting both tools lined up & inserted.
Hey Aaron you gotta watch drolas garage on ytube he just answered your questions about having to lock the cams when doing the chain tensioners the man doesn’t lock anything not even a bolt thru the teardrop…it’s a sight to behold watching the video
+Adams Angels I’ll check it out, thanks. Just because you can doesn’t mean you should, but like I said in the video, it made no sense to me why you would need to :)
Wow. I felt your pain with these caps. I am worried for you: if you get bits of guides, you need to change these ASAP. And please make a video of that too. Oh and we say aluminium in Canada, the way the British says it. Why? Because it is a French word and we say it the same way…. I am French Canadian….
+Francois Ducharme 😂 yeah, they were the hardest part I think. I’m trying to hold out a few weeks until I have my lift to tackle that. Will definitely be a video, fear not!
Did you ever check your camshaft deviations with your Durametric tool? It would be good information for everyone to check before replacing their chain tensioners.
@@HelpMeDIY that would great! I’m looking forward to seeing your next video on replacing the Variocam pad replacement without having to remove the engine from the car.
@@SunSandAndSea You can do it without dropping the engine. I’ve seen it done. Just remove the cover on the side of the chains. 💁♂️. I wish Aaron wld do this vid tho.
@@SunSandAndSea Time to review the engine is when doing a clutch. That is over half of the bolts needed gone. And the trans removal is over half of the work . Other than dealing with the weight & actually lowering the motor.
after using this lift to work on your car, would you have, if you had the $$, rather bought a full lift? benefit of these actually is that you are on your back , a full lift I find my neck is sore after look up at the engine all day.
@@richardgolonka7585 ohhh you’re right, sorry, thought this comment was from the chain guide replacement :). Love the 2-post lift I have now. Quick Jacks are a huge step up from a jack and jack stands, but a lift is another huge leap
+George Kibliov I think it was just my tool still being too thick, however I let a guy local to me borrow the tool and he felt like rotating it 360 helped him 🤷♂️
@@giak I am here reading to find that out same thing. Lol. I’m just wondering because of the spring pressure on the valves & on down the line for connected parts . But I’m guessing it doesn’t matter ,as long as both locking tools are in place correctly enough to fit well . And replacing just these tensioners is as far in the engine a person goes. But then I’m thinking it could make a difference if pulling /replacing the cams or going further into part replacement or changes . But even then the correct timing alignment when putting it back together would come into play per advised on doing a job like that . And that part would be specified in direction when going into a engine that deep . Like pulling the cams & things of that nature involving the removal of a chain or chains . I haven’t seen anything specific on just replacing tensioners . So im thinking it wouldn’t matter as long as both tools was locked & in correctly. I say that for only doing this job tho . But I’m just here reading to try and make sure myself lol . 💁♂️. Doing mine today “finally “. I had some bs ordering & shipping issues from a seller. Had to order twice. The Last was a different seller . Lol
@@Chon-c I just finished IMS on my 98 Boxster. Ether TDC is ok, lock exhaust cam on the passenger side. IMS shaft moved slightly to 11 o'clock on me as I pulled out the old bearing. Had to use install tool to shift it back into place by pressing it firmly against IMS shaft and using plastic wrapped large screwdriver for leverage.
@@gkibilov Ok. Kool. 👍. I was thinking as long as the exhaust bank was locked it should be fine. Now I know a little better. Appreciate it. I’ll be doing my guides next with the ims & seal. Changing these two tensioners as we speak
I love your videos!!! Always a BUT….. but this one gives me stress. Your should never ever put your finger over a small hole like that. You run the risk of injecting yourself with fluid. I’m this case motor oil. But any fluids in the bloodstream are highly dangerous or deadly. 😬 You should edit and maybe add a caution. ⚠️
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
12:08 Thank you so much for going through the effort and time of setting up the tripod. I is extremely helpful to see how you struggled with it and solved it. Thank you.
+Samuel Seager the full version has even more detailed hints ;)
That was the most uncomfortable video I’ve watched on TH-cam 😅 Even more respect for my mechanic who recently replaced a tensioner washer! Great job, cheers
+kayvon is likes 😂 🍻
Your perseverance for our benefit is appreciated. That bottom tensioner would have sent me swearing and threatening to sell the car ! You’re a bigger man than I am .
+Jim McCarthy 😎🍻
Got to be the chain guides? You can trust Jake Raby. He is the foremost Expert on these engines! He was instrumental in finding my 996. BTW, Jake did the IMS, AOS, Water Pump, Clutch etal. on my now current 996. I Love this Porsche. Thanks to Jake Raby !! OOHRAH ! Marine !! Job Well Done ! My Friend ! HooAh !!
+SGT Tom Bailes thanks! 🍻
Yy
Glad to see you did lock it, even though you had trouble with the tool, you got it figured out
+Easier ways yes. I can’t imagine that you HAVE to though… 🤷♂️
@@HelpMeDIY yeah me either. Especially doing them one at a time . Because then you don’t get EVEN ANY SLACK IN THE CHAINS . Lol
I bought the damn locking kit tho. Only because I’m gonna do the ims & etc .
But I’m gonna say they are no definites on this subject because Porsche (and others) want you to buy a kit & or take it to a mechanic. 💁♂️
@@Chon-c truth
Without your assistance, we would never be able to maintenance our cars..
+Vakertzoukos ΒKR haha thanks!
Feels like it got worse but it might be because of first start-up. Thanks for sharing this with us!
+Anil it actually is much better now. You’re welcome! 🍻
Aaron great job as usual, I just did a oil change, I have a 2003 Boxster S with 102,000 miles. I have had it for four years and change my oil at least twice a year and then have it analyzed at Blackstone and everything has come back good over that time. Now I found small black flex of plastic in my oil filter about (20) 1 mm size,I then drop the oil sump pan and found 20 more pieces of black plastic much larger 1/8” to 3/16”all black, some of the pieces have rounded edges and were thicker, then a bearing seal plate. IMS was replaced in 2007. As I said, they’re all black and not the caramel colored pieces you would find with a chain tensioner so I’m at a bit of a loss do you or any of your community of friends, have any ideas? As always, you have a great content, and you are not afraid to show the good and the mistakes of being your own mechanic. thanks, TOM.
+Tom krug thanks Tom! I still suck at diagnosing, but maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in. If you figure it out be sure to come update us!
Thanks, I will be doing this soon. Your video helps greatly!
+Bluebullbt glad to help. Hope you’re a subscriber now 😉
Just completed the replacement of the bottom two tensioners on my '98 Boxster thanks to this video.
The cam locking tool listed in the description from eBay is no longer available (12 pieces sold out). However, there is a Finnish company selling a similar and suitable tool that requires removal of only the lower cylinder plug (9products.com Cam lock tool p/n 9p-tt-96-1). This locking tool will require a separate M8 hex bolt for installation. M8 x 30mm is, in my opinion, too long and M8x15 or M8 x 20 are more suitable (extra minutes under the car turning bolts are wasted minutes).
For the specific job outlined in this video (replacement of the bank 1-3 tensioner and IMS shaft tensioner with the motor still in the car), the other timing tool kits listed in the video description are of no use. The TDC lock can be performed with another M8 bolt, roughly M8 x 50mm, or alternately a very short 5/16 drill bit.
The factory tensioners have a very short stroke with a non-linear spring rate (the initial push is easy, the push gets harder and then bottoms out quickly). The replacement tensioners are slightly longer as noted in the video, the stroke is longer, and the spring tension is consistent. I used a 32mm socket and a 24" breaker bar to loosen the original tensioners, which both gave way with a satisfying snap.
Unfortunately, this procedure did not solve my particular start-up rattle. I will have to tackle the upper tensioner (bank 4-6) next. From my initial probing, the key to removing the factory tensioner is a 32mm 12-point socket and an 90-tooth ratchet (as narrow as possible, possibly 3/8 drive with a 1/2 adaptor). This tool combination will allow sufficient clearance to torque out the old tensioner. - you need to be higher than the hard line in front, lower than the A/C compressor, and you need to avoid running into the side of the access panel opening with the ratchet handle. Installation of the replacement tensioner looks like it will require a low profile 14mm Allan bit given the space constraints (A/C compressor above, hard line in front). As noted in the follow up video, the A/C compressor can be loosened off by undoing 3 - 13mm bolts, two with a ratcheting wrench and one with a socket on an extension providing about an inch of extra clearance.
Cheers Aaron for all your effort in creating these videos. Can you make the t-shirts available in cotton (and other colors)?
I think they are available in cotton and other colors from the spreadshirt link?
I know this is a year old Aaron but what was the reason you had to change the tensioners? Thanks for doing your videos always very helpful
+Sean Denny his cam deviations were getting up there
Thanks for being such a brave soul!!
+Zellot360 😬🍻
You have to be scared first to be brave. And Aaron was not scared😉. Keep it up Aaron.
@@EdA-bz3bu LOL thanks!
Great video as always
+@cparks325 appreciate you! 🍻
Nice work Aaron. My tip on the bottom tensioner is to use a bottle jack and some wood to apply a little upward pressure while you catch the first thread with a wrench. It's still fiddly as you have to inch it up real slow so as not to damage the thread whilst also rotating the tensioner with a wrench. I found it easier than trying to muscle it in.
Is there a reason why you didn't change the tensioner by the A/C pump? It's fiddly but easy enough; you have to remove the belt and take out a couple of the mounting bolts from above with the top in the service position. Cheers
+Peter Sutcliffe thanks! Yeah, I didn’t change it because my research indicated that it probably wasn’t my issue and that it was hard to reach. Not sure of the first but was true or not but here we are 🤷♂️
It seems to me that the tensioner being spring loaded cannot collapse that far when the car stands for some time, should be similar to how far hydraulic valve lifter would collapse. I am not sure that a slight rattle on start that immediately goes away once oil pressure reaches the tensioner is a problem however the plastic bits in the filter are more alarming. My car is also showing the plastic bits so am looking forward to seeing how the chain guides are replaced.
+Richard Calon like you, I can’t really wrap my head around HOW that would cause the rattle, I was just repeating what I had read. But I can confirm that the new tensioners DID resolve the rattle on startup!
@@HelpMeDIY My concern would be that the additional tension from the new tensioners would mask wear on the cam chain guides and perhaps accelerate wear and failure of those plastic parts. Haven't read much about guide failure but am sure like almost everything in these engines it would be catastrophic.
@@richardcalon3724 replacing the guides is my next project!
Finding TDC a lot easier with the belt off. Never seems to be enough room to get a socket on the crank. Hope your chain rails are OK.
+Peter Brown actually after I figured out the fell it was really easy. Taking the belt off would have taken a lot more time. Rails are definitely not ok though. 😢
While it is at TDC, mark the two indicators with red or white paint ( timing marks on the case and the crank wheel) then you will see them every time easier. I use my wives white fingernail polish because it has a brush to apply to the marks.
+James Ford I like that! Thanks for the tip 🍻
What about the third tensioner? May be the source of residual noise?
+@DavideFrada-ds6nk could be, but I’m told that one fails less often and it’s much harder to change
Great video. Learned a few things. If I can ask, why did you only do 2 tensioner instead of 3?
+BranchOffice thanks! In think I mentioned it in the video, but two reasons. First, that one supposedly doesn’t cause issues as much as the other two. Second, that one is much harder to get to.
@@HelpMeDIY 00l000l0l000000000l5
So mine making some horrible noises pretty sure have it down to a tensioner failed after what sounded like knocking now grinding but still turns over will this fix that issue or will I need to go in and place chains back on or how does this work little confused
+RealCameronP yikes! Sounds like you may have more to do than just replace them but I don’t even know where to start on something like that.
@@HelpMeDIY got here in service mode drained oil and glitter ✨
Did the replacement tensioners stop the startup rattle? Great videos!
+Mike M yes it did! Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the great video. How did you confirm bank one was locked if you didn’t remove the single green cover with the half slot that should be pointing in the 3 o’clock position?
+@user-jh3wo4wx5m you’re welcome! You’re not turning the engine or affecting the timing in any way so it doesn’t matter.
Is it necessary to lock the cams in place? or more of just a precaution incase the engine were to slip away from TDC?
+Stryfe132 The best answer that I can get to that question is still “you should lock them“. 🤷♂️
those green plugs are a total ball ache to get out, you only need the 1/2 lock tool on a 5 chain motor, the 5 chain motor only has the notch on the exhaust cam, 3 chain has notch on both cams an the longer lock tool is used for the 3 chain
+Matt Todd ball ache indeed! I mentioned that other stuff in the video but that’s a nice concise recap.
Yeah my comment was 1/2 way through the video, had similar issues when doing the ims and clutch replacement on my 03 S, your vids are extremely helpful
The full tool to lock the exhaust cam also locates the intake cam when removing the cam cover. When the cam cover is removed the cams are located at the driven end by separate cam caps and unsecured at the non driven end,. Unless both cams are securely located, valve spring pressure will be applied to the unsecured ends of the cams unless they are locked by the tool. I am not sure how much damage not securing the cams will do but it is not worth the risk of not securing them.
I just started noticing a little rattling at start in mine a couple months ago.
And I Found my first bits of plastic like yours in the filter today. So I’ll be doing this very shortly. Ty again brother. Lol. I’ve done 7 of your projects so far.
Btw ? Did you find any very small aluminum shavings in yours ?
+CHON uh oh…
Yeah I did but mine were from drilling out the bolt that sheared off on my water pump. Now from the engine 😅
@@HelpMeDIY I have been keeping a close eye on my filters for every change.
For the first time I found these things in mine. But I noticed the rattle worse after the car setting longer.
My shavings is aluminum. Not steel thank god.
I think that’s from the chain rubbing on start ups after leaking off. I got tensioners coming & I’ll be changing my oil more often from now on to keep an eye on it.
I have always done my own work. And I have a couple of decades experience in building & rebuilding Rock crawlers /jeeps & rear ends & Heavy equipment diesel mechanic etc .
But I had been very happy until this last oil change . Never anything.
I don’t think the metal is because soft a sheered bolt off the Ims or something.
So I’ll eventually be pulling the oil pan to see if my chain guilds has completely gone and that is the aluminum from them cracking away.
I just think they would be more in my filter if that was the case. I’m just not sure .
So I’ll be pulling the oil pan to check when I have it on a rack to change the tensioners.
And probably doing the normal ims barring & seal when I do the clutch & stuff then .
Lol. I think I had a gf do a rev up on Immediate start once.
🤦♂️. I told her the deal after
Lol.
But I think that’s where the very small shavings has come from.
As we say in the diesel world
I’m at the stage of .
“YA JUST HAVTO RUN IT & WATCH IT “ stage in a disappointment. Lol.
@@HelpMeDIY Just a guess obvious. But I’m going to say yours wasn’t from that drilling.
It’s because of the chain looser & rubbing the sides on start up like mine . Especially if they are real fine consistency like mine.
Drilling in doesnt usually produce shavings like this. Or their results from it in the oil filter (They won’t be all consistent in size & very thin flakes like this. They literally look like gold panning flakes. They would be chunks even if some are a different size & or circulating in the oil . ..if they were from the drilling that is . )
Even if the been circulating in the oil they won’t look like I’ve got.
You need to Keep an eye on it.
Do a couple of oil changes at around 2 or 3 k. (Half as normal) & keep a check on it & you’ll know .
It could be from being shaved off the variocam . Which happens to some after a while & guides are gone . But that would be steel & no aluminum.
You probably heard this as part of the discussion when you went to do the other video.
Which I noticed you deleted btw. Lol. Wut ? Was the Comments getting too hot ?
Lol Cuz it was a good video.
@@HelpMeDIY Did your rattle quit?
Finally getting to do mine today. I had a major shipping issue (lost part and time to finally get to do it )
I came back for a refresher. I noticed you added the part on not removing the top cap (yeah. I got the same tool as you lol. And used your link & stuff to give ya a little cut of it lol 👍) Just wondering ?💁♂️.
@@Chon-c yes it did!
Hey just curious how did you lock camshaft for each side bank you're working on? I would think to look in spark plug hole for each side to know which bank you've set to TDC? Or maybe it wasn't needed from the looks of it?
Edit, saw you had the TDC mark on the other bank. Guess maybe you didn't need tdc if not locking each bank as you work on that side?
+@natureguppy9642 rotate a full revolution for the other side to be TDC
I was thinking that, I just didn't see you move the tool to the other bank so wasn't sure.
When I follow the link in your description to purchase the "Porsche Cylinder Head Plug", the website says "6 required". Is that for a total rebuild or something? I thought it was only 1 each?
+James Reeser that’s right, 3 for each bank
Hey can u give me some advice on replacing the bolt on the back side of the tension pulley of a 2006 Porsche Cayman S. It’s a 15 mm but the hex has rounded off I can’t figure out how to get the bar removed from the motor
+Artie Brosonski that’s tough. I’ve never had to deal with something like that luckily. I’d just look up some TH-cam videos on rounded bolts and see if anything helpful comes up
@@HelpMeDIY well I found out how to get that rounded bolt off! It’s a job . You have to take throttle body off. Because the shaft goes in to the block. Once that’s out the way u can see the shaft. It’s got a set screw inside of the shaft that must come out before you can remove the whole thing! Once it’s off it allows u to change the bolt for the tension pulley.
@@artiebrosonski2345 thanks for the follow up! Hopefully that helps someone down the road 😁🍻
Love this ,,,thanks man
+positivesecret 🙏🍻
How do you know if you have the 5 chain or not? Mine is a 2003 2.7
+@jccostarakis5983 Google or call a dealer with your VIN
Did they give you a new washer with the new tensioner
+Joe Hinkle sold separately
Still having chain rattle? or did it get better after multiple start ups?
+John Sampson I haven’t heard it rattle again 😁
I have a 2001 boxster with green bits in the oil last oil change. I've heard it was likely to be from the o-rings on these guys. Anyone know if that's true? I believe brown bits would've been timing chain guides, but these were more of a pale green.
Did you find out? The smaller o ring on spark plug tubes are green but seems unlikely they'd get into the oil.
Thank you!
+Mikhael Catapang 🍻
Humm? After days of sitting, my chains rattle for a second. Loudly. 58K on the engine (well sorted w/ LN IMS, AOS, Water Pump, Clutch). I don't like to hear that chain rattle at start up. What should I replace to stop this noise?
+SGT Tom Bailes you need to do this then!
@@HelpMeDIY
This fix took care of that noise on start and acceleration?
@@mattymatt3654yes
I'm gonna have to check for the plastic bits in oil filter next oil change. To my knowledge everything else should be good to go for a while. My 09' 987.2 Boxster I just got has been a fun daily driver so far with just under 50k miles. Already did a tune up. I replaced spark plugs which might've been original, MAF Sensor, engine air filter, cabin filter, gas cap, and oil change. I also replaced the blown speakers. I'm about $2000 in repairs so far, but I'm glad I was able to DIY most of these things. I fully appreciate your vids!
what other components are a need to know for TDC it could be 180 degrees off just going by the timing mark on the crank.
When you pull off the caps ? That mark needs to be straight up to get the other locking tool in place. & that tells you if you need to do another half rotation (or more .). Because that’s the goal of getting both tools lined up & inserted.
Hey Aaron you gotta watch drolas garage on ytube he just answered your questions about having to lock the cams when doing the chain tensioners the man doesn’t lock anything not even a bolt thru the teardrop…it’s a sight to behold watching the video
+Adams Angels I’ll check it out, thanks. Just because you can doesn’t mean you should, but like I said in the video, it made no sense to me why you would need to :)
where can i buy the 5 chain locking tool for cheap?
+connorscarrera I have links in the description
How much for parts and what vendor please? Thanks good job! Did you email Jake?
+william carroll there are links to everything in the description. I called him. Hope you’re a subscriber now! 🍻
Yes for some time now!
@@wildbillcarroll 🙏😎
Where did you get the crush washers from?
+John Sampson separate part number. Check the video description
Wow. I felt your pain with these caps. I am worried for you: if you get bits of guides, you need to change these ASAP. And please make a video of that too. Oh and we say aluminium in Canada, the way the British says it. Why? Because it is a French word and we say it the same way…. I am French Canadian….
+Francois Ducharme 😂 yeah, they were the hardest part I think. I’m trying to hold out a few weeks until I have my lift to tackle that. Will definitely be a video, fear not!
I had to take a Xanax just to watch this. 🤯
+Jan Bauer 😂 😂 😂
Did you really need a excuse? 💁♂️🙄🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@Chon-c LOL
Did you ever check your camshaft deviations with your Durametric tool? It would be good information for everyone to check before replacing their chain tensioners.
+rwabe I didn’t beforehand but I’m going to do it after (and make a video on that)
@@HelpMeDIY that would great! I’m looking forward to seeing your next video on replacing the Variocam pad replacement without having to remove the engine from the car.
@@rwabe i havent seen it yet and most shops will push dropping the engine as now it likely the time to review the engine.
@@SunSandAndSea You can do it without dropping the engine. I’ve seen it done. Just remove the cover on the side of the chains. 💁♂️. I wish Aaron wld do this vid tho.
@@SunSandAndSea Time to review the engine is when doing a clutch. That is over half of the bolts needed gone. And the trans removal is over half of the work . Other than dealing with the weight & actually lowering the motor.
How much oil did you lose?
+Robert Long quite a bit
@@HelpMeDIY more than a quart?
@@robertlong2264 yes
Whats a 5 chain?
+davey111359 check out my first video on the tensioners. Link is in the description.
10k 🎉🎉
Yasssss!!!
What was mileage on car????????
+Gary Helms don’t remember now but it was mentioned somewhere in the video
after using this lift to work on your car, would you have, if you had the $$, rather bought a full lift? benefit of these actually is that you are on your back , a full lift I find my neck is sore after look up at the engine all day.
+Richard Golonka I’m confused because I did this on a full lift. 🤷♂️ And I would not want to go back to doing it on my back now 😁
@@HelpMeDIY in the video you used a quickjack
@@richardgolonka7585 ohhh you’re right, sorry, thought this comment was from the chain guide replacement :). Love the 2-post lift I have now. Quick Jacks are a huge step up from a jack and jack stands, but a lift is another huge leap
So did you have to rotate the engine 360 degrees or that was just a fruitless exercise?
+George Kibliov I think it was just my tool still being too thick, however I let a guy local to me borrow the tool and he felt like rotating it 360 helped him 🤷♂️
@@HelpMeDIY There are 2 TDCs and I wonder if it matters with one gets locked:)
@@giak I am here reading to find that out same thing. Lol. I’m just wondering because of the spring pressure on the valves & on down the line for connected parts . But I’m guessing it doesn’t matter ,as long as both locking tools are in place correctly enough to fit well . And replacing just these tensioners is as far in the engine a person goes. But then I’m thinking it could make a difference if pulling /replacing the cams or going further into part replacement or changes .
But even then the correct timing alignment when putting it back together would come into play per advised on doing a job like that . And that part would be specified in direction when going into a engine that deep . Like pulling the cams & things of that nature involving the removal of a chain or chains .
I haven’t seen anything specific on just replacing tensioners .
So im thinking it wouldn’t matter as long as both tools was locked & in correctly. I say that for only doing this job tho .
But I’m just here reading to try and make sure myself lol . 💁♂️.
Doing mine today “finally “. I had some bs ordering & shipping issues from a seller. Had to order twice. The Last was a different seller . Lol
@@Chon-c I just finished IMS on my 98 Boxster. Ether TDC is ok, lock exhaust cam on the passenger side. IMS shaft moved slightly to 11 o'clock on me as I pulled out the old bearing. Had to use install tool to shift it back into place by pressing it firmly against IMS shaft and using plastic wrapped large screwdriver for leverage.
@@gkibilov Ok. Kool. 👍. I was thinking as long as the exhaust bank was locked it should be fine. Now I know a little better. Appreciate it.
I’ll be doing my guides next with the ims & seal. Changing these two tensioners as we speak
So far i have the answers
I love your videos!!! Always a BUT….. but this one gives me stress. Your should never ever put your finger over a small hole like that. You run the risk of injecting yourself with fluid. I’m this case motor oil. But any fluids in the bloodstream are highly dangerous or deadly. 😬
You should edit and maybe add a caution. ⚠️
+Cashew no bloodstreams were harmed in the making of this video 😛
Thanks for the precaution though.