PrideAuto is working on a solution/update to address the concerns expressed and we have chatted a bit about it, so we will see what he comes up with. When developing parts, there is always testing and revisions involved and I hope to contribute anything I can to help people be successful!
They made a second version that secures it better with an installed sleeve for about 110, if you have the first version in the video still you can email them and they will send a sleeve for the bolt to reduce that movement for free
I recently bought one and I made a video I used an intake hard rubber cap, drilled a whole thru and the bolt fit snugged and it also filled the whole in the subframe
I agree. That small contact point will eventually damage the subframe. There should be a bracket with multiple fasteners to the subframe to keep the brace in place and power away from one small area.
in the " under the car " section of the video , you can see the dif bushing, along with the whole subframe , is moving compared to the chassi ( where id assume you mounted the camera ). i don't think the brace does a much to support the dif , as it does to support the dif bushing. says to me, the bushing is the issue and id just replace it over the brace. the real fix is solid bushings , or at least aluminum bushing inserts , crossmember and dif.
You’re right, the brace didn’t do much of anything. And a single mounting point to the frame creates a pivot point. At the time of the video, there was no diff bushing available for the Q. Now there is a poly bushing from z1 which is a nice upgrade. Check that video out!
@@SpeedCultureStudios will do. I'm new to the platform , but a long time Nissan enthusiast and have worked on them since 2003 or so. Just got a 23 RS in black opal. Have some cool plans for it. And keep finding your videos. I'll def look into the video . I want to do stuff right , and once. When I do my arms I'll get eccentric lockouts also , and prob go with the RS*R best active coils , Hotchkiss sway bars. Have some cool JDM parts on the way like an Esprit wing , and may do the skyline front end and tail conversion , and get the Varis front lip , skirts , rear diffuser kit. 370z nismo v1 wheels for a bit , already own them , they're on my R33 GTR , but got it new LMGT4 wheels.. plan to go a bit above the AMS RA500 kit , basically the kit plus all the cooling and fuel upgrades , and intercoolers , carbon engine covers etc. but not do turbos or pull engine for a bit. Will build a block out of car , and upgrade down the road. Cost of a zero mile block vs pulling and breaking down the original doesn't make sense. Rather have a spare ready to go , then need it and have down time .
Hopefully they just make an insert that fills the hole and has a larger welded washer that takes up the bolt length near the diff housing eliminating 2 birds with 1 stone ... good job dude ! Was going to put mine on today but I’ll wait for a good fix ! 👌🏼🤙🏼🤘🏼😎🤘🏼
Possibly. It needs to prevent a pivot point, so two mounting locations would help. Other than that, just overall design and materials are really important.
If you're talking about a major/complete re-design, then no. But he did add a sleeve to better fill the mount hole now, so maybe it will further reduce flex now.
on the bracket, they should have put a lip on the back so it could slide into the front hole just a bit for it not to flex. do all 14/15 q50 have a large front hole. is that large front hole normal? you would think in their testing they would have found this issue. i noticed it right off the bat.
Ah ha ! Now that was a good catch 👍🏼 Im sure once you pop something in there with the right spacing which that piece from your pocket is in the right direction it will improve the performance of the brace 👍🏼 I still say that after installed yes there was flexing but smoother flex not snap fast flex like the first video . But im sure since you found that issue once its fixed it will be night and day 👌🏼 Keep us informed man nice vid 🤙🏼
Good video, thanks for doing this series. I just got notified that Z1 has some high performance coil packs available now. Think you could speak on those?
Me too. I would like for you to talk about z1 high performance coils. I would think you would get better gas mileage and a bit more torque or hp. I put a high performance coil and ignition box on my 88 firebird about 22 yrs ago and definitely felt a difference and I doubled the gas mileage. So iam hoping that these coils would be beneficial to the 3.7.
I say we widen out the hole so it slides in the front hole with a longer shaft to make it to the other hole. Then use the right sized bolt. Or maybe we get a mounting bracket like the lover half and drill into the Fram to help secure it. But looking forward to seeing the solutions. Will the ones we bought be issued the fix if it requires and update from them? Or are we on our own in terms of any solutions if one is found?
Your second idea is the way I would lean. And yes I believe he is sending out sleeves to go into the hole to reduce the amount of play. We will see if there is a redesign in the future.
@@SpeedCultureStudios yeah I think that part would then become a cost issue and it wouldn't be as desirable to purchase. Tough choice balancing performance and affordability
OMG I was also surprised how much flex there is even with the Z1 bushings. Do you have high miles on the car or low miles? Want to know if that could be a reason or not for the flex.
60k miles. They are still rubber bushings so I expected flex, even though there are metal collars. I mean they are just collars so they can only do so much. The amount of flex before them must have been crazy because I could feel a difference immediately after installing them
@@SpeedCultureStudios Well the Z1 part is most defiantly on the must buy list. I think I'll wait until a redesign or an additional part for the rear diff brace. I just wanna make sure the flex is at a bare minimum.
Hi @speedculturestudios did you do any draggy runs to see a difference in before and after? The TH-camr from @gettingthroughlife installed the same part and recorded an improvement in his 60ft times. This is a part I myself was very interested in as my 60ft are stuck at 2.0 to 1.98 .
I filmed some today yes, but there was no improvement. His 60’ times did not seem right to me. He should have been under 2 seconds even without the brace. I’ve been consistently at 2.1 60’ times without the brace.
@@SpeedCultureStudios Nice I have only been in the 1.83 because of very light and small tires. Currently sitting at 2 flat. So you saw no improvements well that sells it for me. I will wait until they upgrade/revise the thing before purchasing.
Oh great.. I see snapped, or at least severly stripped or otherwise damaged diff cover bolts a plenty ahead... I have plenty of brackets i can ghetto rig on there for support. I also see ZERO difference. The proper way to do it would be solid or neo bushings
I talked about the problem in the video. The hole utilized for mounting is too large which allows/causes the single bolt to pivot. A sleeve to fill that hole would be necessary to reduce/eliminate the flex, but ideally, there would be more than 1 mounting location. Any vehicle with any amount of torque and grip will quickly find a weak point in the brace or in the subframe.
You have to listen to what I said-I recommend it as long as these issues are considered and addressed. The concept is good and the part is practical-it just needs some tweaks
Getting a big washer between the brace and subframe will not reduce the stress enough, especialy if the washer is thick and very hard. It would need to be too wide to make a difference. Instead, weld a very thin washer around the hole on the subframe, and weld a smaller one on it. It will spread the forces more equaly without creating stress point.
I don’t think that would make it better, honestly. Especially adding a smaller washer to the back of it, unless the “smaller” washer is still larger than the head of the brace. I agree that a larger washer isn’t ideal, but it will certainly distribute the stress better than nothing. Ideally the brace would not have a single contact point.
The fact that the movement at the attachment point wasn't initially addressed is exactly why I wouldn't use this part. This part wasn't designed by anyone with even a little bit of engineering prowess, let alone a mechanical engineering degree. A single attachment point for something like that is also a terrible idea. Even a stock 3.7 is putting 4,000lb ft of torque in first gear through that diff after accounting the trans and final drive....that's not even including the torque converter K factor. That's way too much to ask for a single little bolt to deal with.
@@SpeedCultureStudios you need to start having couple beers with a fabricator/machinist...start building/improving all this products! Build your brand. I would buy a product you recommend because of your honesty and truthful reviews! Maybe in a future! Community can keep hoping! 🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂
@@migueldiaz1620 I hear you man! I’m trying to define the trajectory of the brand. I’d love to have branded parts, but there is definitely a lot that goes into that! I appreciate your support man!
@@SpeedCultureStudios I understand brother, I'm trying to start an online boutique with the wife! Problem for me right now is...all the clothing (jeans, leggings and accessories) come from Colombia and Colombia is having some fireworks right now.
@@migueldiaz1620 yeah the world is crazy right now! That’s funny my wife is in early stages of starting an online boutique as well but focusing on name brand 2nd hand and resale items. Keep in touch!
pride needs to completely scrap this design, its flawed. you can still hear your car wheel hopping slightly. theres just too much deflection in the suspension. if you really want to fix all this, what needs to happen is that ALL subframe rubber bushings need to go. either replace with delrin or solid bushings, not the inserts. theyre not strong enough. second, lateral/camber/toe arms need to be spherical on one end and delrin on the other to eliminate deflection. next, replace the squishy diff bushing with a poly version, a solid version would likely break the diff at the mounting point. THEN, test for wheel hop. if theres still a problem, then a W-shaped brace that connects the diff to the rear of the subframe via the rear center sub-frame support brace attachment bolts, then triangulated to the body using the support brace locations.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
PrideAuto is working on a solution/update to address the concerns expressed and we have chatted a bit about it, so we will see what he comes up with. When developing parts, there is always testing and revisions involved and I hope to contribute anything I can to help people be successful!
Holding off on installing mine - great video and I am looking forward to PrideAuto's solution/update to tweak the install.
They made a second version that secures it better with an installed sleeve for about 110, if you have the first version in the video still you can email them and they will send a sleeve for the bolt to reduce that movement for free
@@tamir2F still doesn’t really improve things. I made my own sleeve. The single mounting point is the main problem.
I recently bought one and I made a video I used an intake hard rubber cap, drilled a whole thru and the bolt fit snugged and it also filled the whole in the subframe
I agree. That small contact point will eventually damage the subframe. There should be a bracket with multiple fasteners to the subframe to keep the brace in place and power away from one small area.
Agreed
If I’m not mistaken, Pride is working on an update for it. So we’ll see what happens. Good video.
Yes he is working on it, and I’ve provided some additional feedback so we will see what they come up with.
@@SpeedCultureStudios cool.
in the " under the car " section of the video , you can see the dif bushing, along with the whole subframe , is moving compared to the chassi ( where id assume you mounted the camera ). i don't think the brace does a much to support the dif , as it does to support the dif bushing. says to me, the bushing is the issue and id just replace it over the brace. the real fix is solid bushings , or at least aluminum bushing inserts , crossmember and dif.
You’re right, the brace didn’t do much of anything. And a single mounting point to the frame creates a pivot point. At the time of the video, there was no diff bushing available for the Q. Now there is a poly bushing from z1 which is a nice upgrade. Check that video out!
@@SpeedCultureStudios will do. I'm new to the platform , but a long time Nissan enthusiast and have worked on them since 2003 or so. Just got a 23 RS in black opal. Have some cool plans for it. And keep finding your videos. I'll def look into the video . I want to do stuff right , and once. When I do my arms I'll get eccentric lockouts also , and prob go with the RS*R best active coils , Hotchkiss sway bars. Have some cool JDM parts on the way like an Esprit wing , and may do the skyline front end and tail conversion , and get the Varis front lip , skirts , rear diffuser kit. 370z nismo v1 wheels for a bit , already own them , they're on my R33 GTR , but got it new LMGT4 wheels.. plan to go a bit above the AMS RA500 kit , basically the kit plus all the cooling and fuel upgrades , and intercoolers , carbon engine covers etc. but not do turbos or pull engine for a bit. Will build a block out of car , and upgrade down the road. Cost of a zero mile block vs pulling and breaking down the original doesn't make sense. Rather have a spare ready to go , then need it and have down time .
Hopefully they just make an insert that fills the hole and has a larger welded washer that takes up the bolt length near the diff housing eliminating 2 birds with 1 stone ... good job dude ! Was going to put mine on today but I’ll wait for a good fix ! 👌🏼🤙🏼🤘🏼😎🤘🏼
That’s right. Just needs a good sleeve to fill the hole
th-cam.com/video/tgEJumwKXms/w-d-xo.html
It would make more sense if it had an extra mounting point that mounts to the actual diff bushing
Possibly. It needs to prevent a pivot point, so two mounting locations would help. Other than that, just overall design and materials are really important.
I hope it's been updated or revised...I'm getting one installed this week 🙏🏾
It has not been. I would cancel the order and purchase the Z1 brace that was just released.
If you're talking about a major/complete re-design, then no. But he did add a sleeve to better fill the mount hole now, so maybe it will further reduce flex now.
@@VM-gq6jd I added a sleeve myself and retested with no improvement.
I've had mine on for 3 months, took it off and it's rusty AF. it also scratched up my diff case. in the trash it goes
on the bracket, they should have put a lip on the back so it could slide into the front hole just a bit for it not to flex. do all 14/15 q50 have a large front hole. is that large front hole normal? you would think in their testing they would have found this issue. i noticed it right off the bat.
That would have been a good idea. I don’t know if they tested it so far as to watch it under the car under actual conditions like I did.
Ah ha ! Now that was a good catch 👍🏼
Im sure once you pop something in there with the right spacing which that piece from your pocket is in the right direction it will improve the performance of the brace 👍🏼
I still say that after installed yes there was flexing but smoother flex not snap fast flex like the first video .
But im sure since you found that issue once its fixed it will be night and day 👌🏼
Keep us informed man nice vid 🤙🏼
WOW, I'm impressed! Really great footage; now you have me enticed to buy one
Good video, thanks for doing this series. I just got notified that Z1 has some high performance coil packs available now. Think you could speak on those?
Me too. I would like for you to talk about z1 high performance coils. I would think you would get better gas mileage and a bit more torque or hp. I put a high performance coil and ignition box on my 88 firebird about 22 yrs ago and definitely felt a difference and I doubled the gas mileage. So iam hoping that these coils would be beneficial to the 3.7.
Send this to the manufacturer for they can improve their product lol
but no cap cool video. Helping the community
He is aware and working in a resolution
I say we widen out the hole so it slides in the front hole with a longer shaft to make it to the other hole. Then use the right sized bolt. Or maybe we get a mounting bracket like the lover half and drill into the Fram to help secure it. But looking forward to seeing the solutions. Will the ones we bought be issued the fix if it requires and update from them? Or are we on our own in terms of any solutions if one is found?
Your second idea is the way I would lean. And yes I believe he is sending out sleeves to go into the hole to reduce the amount of play. We will see if there is a redesign in the future.
It reduces that bucking feeling when you get off the gas without it installed you can see it bounce
You can see it bounce with it installed as well. That’s the problem. And if you have relatively low miles, you shouldn’t feel that anyway.
@@SpeedCultureStudios i may have a bad or worn drive train mount feels like lash
Hopefully the makers of that brace watch your video and add a Bushing of some sort to the contents of that package for the brace.
Yes, pride auto is aware and we’ve been discussing the findings. Whether they will redesign or not, I do not know.
Love your videos man, thank you for your time and expertise. You have saved me a lot of money with my Q50 RS. Cheers!
Glad to hear it!! I appreciate you watching!
Fantastic write up!
i'ma need one of these thingers 👍👍👍
Don’t get this one!
@@SpeedCultureStudios Don't worry, i need one for the G35. Thanks for looking out 🤘🤘🤘
This is why the gktech brace for the 370z comes with a stepped washer to stop this from happening. Simple fix, works and low cost.
Still doesn’t solve the single mounting point problem.
@@SpeedCultureStudios yeah I think that part would then become a cost issue and it wouldn't be as desirable to purchase. Tough choice balancing performance and affordability
OMG I was also surprised how much flex there is even with the Z1 bushings. Do you have high miles on the car or low miles? Want to know if that could be a reason or not for the flex.
60k miles. They are still rubber bushings so I expected flex, even though there are metal collars. I mean they are just collars so they can only do so much. The amount of flex before them must have been crazy because I could feel a difference immediately after installing them
@@SpeedCultureStudios Well the Z1 part is most defiantly on the must buy list. I think I'll wait until a redesign or an additional part for the rear diff brace. I just wanna make sure the flex is at a bare minimum.
Hi @speedculturestudios did you do any draggy runs to see a difference in before and after? The TH-camr from @gettingthroughlife installed the same part and recorded an improvement in his 60ft times. This is a part I myself was very interested in as my 60ft are stuck at 2.0 to 1.98 .
I filmed some today yes, but there was no improvement. His 60’ times did not seem right to me. He should have been under 2 seconds even without the brace. I’ve been consistently at 2.1 60’ times without the brace.
@@SpeedCultureStudios Nice I have only been in the 1.83 because of very light and small tires. Currently sitting at 2 flat. So you saw no improvements well that sells it for me. I will wait until they upgrade/revise the thing before purchasing.
Excellent review.
Oh great.. I see snapped, or at least severly stripped or otherwise damaged diff cover bolts a plenty ahead... I have plenty of brackets i can ghetto rig on there for support. I also see ZERO difference. The proper way to do it would be solid or neo bushings
Does that affect being able to jack the rear diff up?
No
Seems the bolt used is the problem why u still have alot of flex
I talked about the problem in the video. The hole utilized for mounting is too large which allows/causes the single bolt to pivot. A sleeve to fill that hole would be necessary to reduce/eliminate the flex, but ideally, there would be more than 1 mounting location. Any vehicle with any amount of torque and grip will quickly find a weak point in the brace or in the subframe.
interesting, I would have thought you wouldn't recommend it. Great video nonetheless
You have to listen to what I said-I recommend it as long as these issues are considered and addressed. The concept is good and the part is practical-it just needs some tweaks
Hmmm good video and break down..
Thanks for checking it out!
Getting a big washer between the brace and subframe will not reduce the stress enough, especialy if the washer is thick and very hard. It would need to be too wide to make a difference. Instead, weld a very thin washer around the hole on the subframe, and weld a smaller one on it. It will spread the forces more equaly without creating stress point.
I don’t think that would make it better, honestly. Especially adding a smaller washer to the back of it, unless the “smaller” washer is still larger than the head of the brace. I agree that a larger washer isn’t ideal, but it will certainly distribute the stress better than nothing.
Ideally the brace would not have a single contact point.
I think they should pay you for development of their product. :)
Wouldn’t that be awesome! It’s just a small LLC though so I don’t think that would happen lol
@@SpeedCultureStudios yah, it would be nice. Great video man and problem solving. 👍🏼
Thank you for the follow-up...........Like, Share and Subscribe!
The fact that the movement at the attachment point wasn't initially addressed is exactly why I wouldn't use this part. This part wasn't designed by anyone with even a little bit of engineering prowess, let alone a mechanical engineering degree.
A single attachment point for something like that is also a terrible idea. Even a stock 3.7 is putting 4,000lb ft of torque in first gear through that diff after accounting the trans and final drive....that's not even including the torque converter K factor. That's way too much to ask for a single little bolt to deal with.
I agree that a single attachment point is not sufficient.
And remember, that's on top of your subframe collars... Someone without collars would have more flex! I can see that bolt shearing under heavy abuse.
Exactly
@@SpeedCultureStudios you need to start having couple beers with a fabricator/machinist...start building/improving all this products! Build your brand. I would buy a product you recommend because of your honesty and truthful reviews! Maybe in a future! Community can keep hoping! 🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂
@@migueldiaz1620 I hear you man! I’m trying to define the trajectory of the brand. I’d love to have branded parts, but there is definitely a lot that goes into that!
I appreciate your support man!
@@SpeedCultureStudios I understand brother, I'm trying to start an online boutique with the wife! Problem for me right now is...all the clothing (jeans, leggings and accessories) come from Colombia and Colombia is having some fireworks right now.
@@migueldiaz1620 yeah the world is crazy right now!
That’s funny my wife is in early stages of starting an online boutique as well but focusing on name brand 2nd hand and resale items.
Keep in touch!
pride needs to completely scrap this design, its flawed. you can still hear your car wheel hopping slightly. theres just too much deflection in the suspension.
if you really want to fix all this, what needs to happen is that ALL subframe rubber bushings need to go. either replace with delrin or solid bushings, not the inserts. theyre not strong enough. second, lateral/camber/toe arms need to be spherical on one end and delrin on the other to eliminate deflection. next, replace the squishy diff bushing with a poly version, a solid version would likely break the diff at the mounting point. THEN, test for wheel hop.
if theres still a problem, then a W-shaped brace that connects the diff to the rear of the subframe via the rear center sub-frame support brace attachment bolts, then triangulated to the body using the support brace locations.