Hello L, Thanks for taking the time to say so. I fell hard in love with carved glass when I first discovered it. Also, it was the first time I was able to make a full time living as an artist. Thanks again, John
Thanks John. 30 years ago, I did a lot of glass etching. I hand cut but also did photo resist. My material was liquid. I would put layers of tape down and run a straight edge to create a layer (about 3mill) I put my art down on the glass and exposed it to the high UV light. I washed out the glass, etched it, then used another material that sprayed on the resist to soften it for cleaning. Later on, I played with laying up my resist on clear Mylar. It made a sheet much like you show. I spritzed the glass with water, (pre developed), applied the sheet, washed out on the glass, etched and cleaned. Your process is much cleaner. Thank you.
Hi John, great video, I appreciate your showing us newbee's how this is done. I have two questions for you, first off where did you get you spray wash nozzle for you washout booth, I know you had someone make the plexi box which I will be able to make, however where did you get the washout nozzle and are you using household water pressure or some kind of power washer? Next question, some of your samples have a painted look to teh finish glass, what type of paint are you using on the sand carved image? Thanks for you help.
this is a fab video full of info etc for the beginner like me. Thanks keep up the videos especially the etching part. Can you tell me how do you tell the difference from which side to put the black negative to make the photo resist. Does it matter ?? I just got mine from ebay and its just rolled up in a black plastic bag with no instructions how to use it . Thanks for any info regards Alison
In the films I've seen, the glossy side of the photoresist goes towards the negative and UV source, the matte side goes away. Some photoresist brands could be different, but it might be universal. Which direction the negative goes will depend on whether you need the image mirrored to go on the back of the glass. I don't think the side the ink is on matters for the exposure, (it's just blocking light) but it may matter for the original print, depending on your transparency brand.
Can you use photo resist for a stencil over aluminum when etching the aluminum chemically? I am working on a 1927 Buick fuel gauge dial which is made of aluminum and I want to acid etch the “E, 1/4,1/2,3/4, and F” onto the gauge dial!
Interesting information, very cool piece, nice video too. Thanks for speaking clearly and explaining as you performed each step. I am wondering though, how does using photoresist differ from cutting the stencil out of an adhesive vinyl cut with a cutting machine? It seems like more work...does it produce crisper lines or ??? I can't really see on my laptop screen, it's a small device. Any education you provide is greatly appreciated by this newbie. Thanks for sharing!
hello. Nice work ! I was wondering if you make an acid etching instead of sandblasting with this photoresist. How deep can acid go into the glass, not to damage the photoresist vinyl.? How the detail comes.Thanks
Hey Michael, Permanent color in an outdoor setting is tough. I have used oil paint successfully in outdoor applications. Amazingly durable but only lends itself to certain kinds of painting. There are few paints that actually bond to glass. Hope this helps.
Hello there, I am unable to dig into metal using sandblasting. I have etched a lot of metal but surface affects only. I haven't done this but I have heard of engraving metals chemically. Good luck with your research. Thanks for writing, John
Thanks for the video. How do you get real fine detail such as small print to come out? I'm having problems with it blowing out letters as I wash it out. Thanks Tony
Make sure your film is pressed in hard, without bubbles, and spray straight on, not at an angle. Different brands will also have a different tack. (stickiness)
Another great vid just love them learn so much :) a quick question for you is the dry photoresist they use for pcb circuit boards the same as this photoresist?
Hi Dawn, I don't know what is used for circuit boards. It may be something similar. I do not think that the material I use would be capable of the detail require for that kind of work. Thanks for writing. John
"photoresist uv exposure unit" is what you're looking for. There are several types for various industries including sandblasting and circuit board making.
New subscruber here! How glad am I to find your video! I already do glass etching with a sandblaster. I happened across a video using photo resist film a while ago and my brain near on exploded lol I've not been able to find much instruction until I found you. Happily I already have most of the equipment, I need that uv exposure thingy, and to set up a washing station, but other than that, I'm good to go. Hubby is not going to be happy though..we just set up my 'she' shed, and now I need it changed ..oops...😁. Do you happen to have a link for the UV light roller thing please? I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Thanks so much, you've made my day with this video xx
Hello MsTJPink, Sorry, it took me so long to get back to you! With both of my parents going into the hospital and appearing to be entering a new phase of dependency, everything is very compressed. Anyway, it's nice to meet someone use is excited about this craft. BEFORE we go any further, here is the link for the exposure unit I use..... ikonicsimaging.com/equipment/exposure-units/ The round barrel unit fits your typical 8.5" x 11" size but can be utilized to accommodate larger stencils. Question: What part of the world do you reside in? My wife and I have been asking ourselves for years, "Who is going to continue on this exciting craft once I'm gone?". There doesn't appear to be any new blood around here lately. I'm not planning on retiring any time soon, but we are getting older every year. Anyhoo, I would be happy to help you get started if I can. I fell hard in love with carved glass almost 40 years ago and I'm still loving it. Good luck!
+Rick Eyman Hi Rick, In the past I have used printable transparency "paper" from the office supply store and set my printer to "transparency" then set it on the darkest setting then print it out. Most printers of late don't have a transparency setting. However, I have been able to use "AccuArt3" or "AccuBlack" printable transparency sheets from Ikonics (www.ikonics.com). They work much better than the stuff I used to get from the office supply. The trick is to get your printer to print something that blocks light. I have 2 printers (Epson WF-7610 & Epson Artisan 1430) that I have found a combination of settings that print the best home-made film positives I have ever gotten from any printer. Part of the trick is to find "color management" in your settings and choose the "darkest" setting, your "highest density" and set the "contrast" to full. Some printers will not even try to print on transparent material because it scans the edge of the paper first and does not recognize the transparency. In this scenario you can trick the printer by putting some white tape along the leading edge of the transparency (opposite the printing side). I hope this helps. Thanks for writing. John
+John Morrison Hey Rick, forgot to mention that I do most of my graphic work in CorelDraw. I have been using CorelDraw since version 4. They are up to X6 or X7 now. CorelDraw is some pretty powerful software but version X5 is pretty temperamental. I like it but it is very glitchy. Sometimes annoying. Later, John
Can this masking system be used to silver (mirror), paint, as well as sandblast? I am particularly interested in using it for silvering small pieces with fine detail.
Hey EffumGood1, Sorry it took so long to get back to you. To answer your question about using this u.v. stencil system for glass silvering....I would not think so. There are several reasons why not. One is the stencil itself would, most likely, taint the silver corrupting it. Also, even after you wash out the details, there is still a thin clear film that would block your chemicals. BTW, here is a link to the u.v. light exposure unit that I use. ikonicsimaging.com/equipment/exposure-units/ Here is a link to the film ikonicsimaging.com/ultrapro/ Good luck!
Hey Paul, if all I were going to etch were trophies, awards and table-top stuff, I could use a sandblast cabinet. However, since I do large projects as well, I made my sandblast booth 13 feet wide, 9 feet tall and 9 feet deep. I figured that the largest piece of glass I was likely to order would be 8 foot by 12 foot. So I made my booth to accommodate that. Twice, so far, I have had to work with a larger piece of glass sticking out of the door while carving and etching. Good luck.
Hey Shab. Please forgive my delayed response. Some how you got by me. To answer your question.....I would think it's possible. Just try it and see what happens. Thanks, John
John, if you pleased- one more question: after you have cleared drawing in the shower, how do you steak the picture on the glass? Do you take off second side of the film (glossy, I think)? And if you take it off- how did your image keeps on the glass? Thanks, one more time :-)
There were steel pieces adhered to the back side of the glass. After he removed the magnets from the front, water underneath was keeping the sheet in place. (It would blow away from the sprayer without the magnets.)
Hey Geister69, Yes, you can use the u.v. cured adhesives with smooth FLAT metal surfaces. It must be glass to metal. Metal to metal does not work because 1 side has to be transparent to let the light cure the glue. Thanks
Can you download a picture from the internet and print it to sandblast without altering it? You are a great source of information. I love your videos. What size nozzle do you use in this video?
Hello Connie, When it comes to Etching a photograph, you need to work with a company who knows how to "doctor" a photo that they can then make a stencil for sandblasting glass from. The original photo will have a lot to do with how successful the stencil is. It is best to let a company like Ikonics Imaging to process the photo and make the stencil. It is also possible to PRINT a color photo directly on the glass. M3 glass company in Dallas, Texas can print your image onto the glass using a fine ceramic frit which is then fired on permanently. Some sign companies, today, can print your image directly onto your glass. Images look good printed directly onto glass. It is more vibrant than a printed photograph sitting behind a piece of glass. I hope that gives you something to chew on. Ciao!
Those of you looking for glass should probably search locally first, to avoid shipping fees, or at least high fees. Glass is heavy and will cost more to ship than buy, in some cases. eBay and Amazon may also have some suppliers that could meet your needs, with low or no shipping costs.
Hi Christine, I got my little exposure unit at ikonicsimaging.com. You can also use a fluorescent black light. They work fine. You can even use the sun. In the earliest days of expirementing with the glue I would assemble my glass behind a closed door. Once everything was in place I would throw open the door letting sunlight in on my glass. In 2 or 3 minutes I would close the door again then check out. Any U.V. generating light bulb will work. I hope that helps. ]Thanks, John
Hey Terence, the film I use to print my own "film positives" is from ikonics.com . It is called AccuBlack inkjet film. It comes in a couple of sizes and it is the best film I have used. I just posted a video "Glass Robot part 1". Part 2 will be using a homemade film positive to etch some fine detail on the robot. Check it out if you get the chance. Thanks for writing. John
Hello Daniel, You can use photoresist on a smooth, polished piece or granite or marble. Most of the time it will stick okay. Being that granite is so hard, you may see that the resist can not last as long as you need depending on how deep you want to go. You just have to experiment on a scrap piece of granite. I buy my photoresist from Ikonics Imaging. ikonicsimaging.com/ikonics/contact/ Good luck!
What are you using for a printer and what are you using for a photo exposing film we are a small company and love your work just trying to get started up
Sorry for the long delay in responding. I use Epson printers and you have to select the correct settings to get the printer to lay down enough ink to block the light during exposure. Just experiment with the settings. When you go into color control you want to set SATURATION all the way up and set CONTRAST all the way up. Hope this helps.
Hi, Mr.John your Work and video are excellent, I am a beginner so few steps unable to understand, I have some questions please guide me, I shall be grateful to you. which chemical use in spray for etching, name of photoflim and this flim can I use for metal etching. Will wait for the answers many thanks
Developing the film is done with water. Etching the glass is done with sandblasting, not chemicals. (It can be done with etching cream, a different process.) The brand of photoresist film John uses is in the video at 6:08.
Hi, John. What size (of grains) and type of abrazive did you use? I think it is oxide alluminium, but what is the size... and great thanks for this video :-)
Hi, the size or grit of the aluminum oxide I use is 120 grit. Any larger grit and your project may not look as nice. If all I did was trophy work I would use 220 grit to accommodate the thinnest lines in my photoresist graphics. But I fing the 120 grit the perfect inbetween size to work on my large and small projects. Good luck!
Well Justin I have been using the same ScatBlast low pressure pressure pot for the last 30 years now. I don't think they are stilol in business. Cost $400. 30 years ago. Not sure what they would run today. There is a company named "Brut" who sells sandblasting equipment and supplies. You would need a 5 or 7 horse compressor to try to do anything. And a 10 horse compressor is essential If you want to work at it for real. Good luck.
Hey Justin, I do not know of a scaled down version of sandblasting. It requires so much pressure to get the abrasive to etch the glass that you have to have a substantial compressor to drive it. A syphon feed sandblaster should be cheaper than a pressure pot but I have never priced one. You might look into sandblasting equipment that is used with a glass etching "cabinet". Good luck
Hey Ron & Gayle, I think I forgot to answer your question. Sorry. I buy my photoresist film from Ikonics Imaging. Web address: ikonicsimaging.com . I personally use ULTRA Pro, 5 mil. There are at least 2 companies that makes this stuff (Raysist Co.) and they all make several products for various applications. I hope this helps. Thanks, John
Hello friend, There are a handful of photoresist films you may use for etching glass. My favorite is provided by IKONICS. They have many versions of photoresist. The one I like is UltraPro. Here is a link to the web page where you can buy it -- ikonicsimaging.com/films/photoresist-films/ -- There is another brand called 'Rayzist'. However, I have used Ikonics for the last 20 years or more. Good luck with your research. John
Nope, not even close. You need a spray nozzle that produces a tiny bead of water at a high enough pressure to wash out fine detail. The company that sold me my wash out gun has changed their nozzle to a cheaper one which does not work very well. I had to trace down the manufacture of the old nozzle in order to get the performance back up to snuff. Thanks-for-nothing-Ikonics. Hope this helped.
I use an Epson Artisan printer. I don't know if all the Epsons work for film positives or only the Artisan series but I have 2 Epsons that do what I need (Epson Artisan 1430 & Epson Workfource WF 7610). If you get an Epson, write me back and I'll tell you what settings I use for film positives. Thanks, John
+Pul5ar Hello PulSar, This stencil method is not effective for painting. When the photoresist mask is applied to your smooth surface (glass) there is a very thin membrane that disintegrates almost instantly when sandblasted. This membrane will not let your paint reach the surface you want to paint. One option would be to sandblast it first, then spray your paint on. However, this is usually not successful because you would need to peel off the photoresist mask while the paint is still wet. I hope this answers your question. Thanks, John
Ohh, my attention :-( I see now. But I dont still understand really "sand" does not make holes in mask on the glass? And how much WATTS in your lampe? Thanks.
The sand does etch the mask, but most of it bounces off the soft plastic. If you hold the nozzle in one place or spray for too long, the mask will eventually form holes.
+Adreanna Flick Hello Adreanna, The light I use is provided by Ikonics Imaging company who also makes the film. It has "Letralite" printed on the side of it. Most black lights will work as well but I like the timer on the Letralite. Hope this helps. Merry Christmas!
Hi, a very similar process is used in electronics to produce printed circuit boards (pcb's). You can search TH-cam for "photoresist" & "pcb". The photo sensible film (which gets exposed in the semi cylindrical shape) is called photoresist and it reacts to UV light (plenty of photoresist available on eBay.com). Some people do use ordinary incandescent UV bulbs (as bulbs do emit UV light in addition to visible light), some other people have been successful exposing their plate to plain sunlight. UV bulbs, UV neon tubes (sometimes ripped from nail curing devices) and UV LEd's are usually preferred...
Hey Steve, this film can not be used for an ink strategy. When the film is placed on the glass, there is a very thin membrane that covers the areas to be etched. When you begin sandblasting, this film immediately disintegrates allowing the abrasive to etch the glass. This same membrane would prevent your ink from reaching the surface of your material. Hope this helps.
Hey Steve, after the glass has been etched you could apply ink and the photoresist would act as a stencil for your ink. One caution...the photo resist would most likely try to absorb your ink making it softer and prone to release from the glass. Now this shouldn't be a real problem. Just do not pour on the ink like a puddle. About the cost of the photoresist, tell me about it. They all cost about the same. Just pick the one you like the best. Good luck.
Hello Annette, I have been sticking with EPSON printers for years now because, even thought they do not have a "transparency" setting....I can get the best homemade film-positives printed by them. This requires the right settings and printing on AccuBlack transparency sheets sold by iconics.com. On your EPSON printer, go to settings....select paper type as PRESENTATION MATT FINISH.......then go to your COLOR CONTROLS (you may have to look around to find them) then turn 'CONTRAST' - 'SATURATION' - 'DENSITY' all the way UP!! And that will get you a very usable film positive to use with your photoresist. I hope this helps. Ciao!
Hey C Rob, the water nozzle I use was part of the Ikonics Image photoresist exposure system that I use. The system includes the light exposure unit and the nozzle. I ordered a new nozzle a couple of years ago and it was different. I did not like it as much so I continue to use the old one. You want a fine strong mist. It should be uncomfortable to shoot your hand with it. Hope that helps.
Hey C Rob, sorry for the delayed response. I use Type 2 nozzels in both ceramic and carbide steel. You just choose the opening size you want when you purchase.I buy my stuff from TP Tool. www.tptools.com Good luck
John Morrison hi. Checked the sight out. I only see medium opening Skat Blast carbide tips. Will this work for photo blasting on glass and stone? I did see the ceramic tips but they said not for use in cabinets. Do YOU not blast in cabinet?
Hello, sir the name of the ultraviolet device is what, I want to buy, but do not know his name. sorry if my english is not good, I use google traslate.
Sir can you guide me how can I buy that photoresist light sensitive film. I m from India. What is the product name and it's nanufacturer. So that i can purchase online
hello i have a problem in film when i wash with high pressure. it take time to see the image when i continue to wash the film damage. can you please help me
Hey there, You may need more water pressure or a spray nozzle the creates a finer bead of water or both. You have to wash out your details before the film starts to dissolve. You can't keep washing the stencil indefinitly.
Hi, You can use Sodium Hydroxide Solution to remove the photo resist after etching. Use 12g of NaOH with 1 liter of water and submerge the artwork in it for 5 minutes. The photo-resist should come off easily.
Hi John, this is a nice video. I want to start with sandblasting and I have an Epson Workforce WF7620. Could you share your settings for the WF 7610 for film positives?
Hello MrCkong, I'll try to describe the settings to you. Naturally it is easier when you can look at the screen. You select Print then select the Epson printer (if you have more than one. Select "Preferences", then select "Best photo", then in Paper type select "Presentation paper matte". Then go back to the top and select the "Advanced" tab. Select "color controls" if not already selected then click the "Settings" button. A little window will pop up where you will make your last settings. Now set your "Contrast", "Saturation" and "Density" slide controls all the way up (+). All the way to the right. Then select "OK" and go to printing. After that the quality of your transparency will depend on the quality of your transparency material. I like the "AcuBlack" from IkonicsImaging.com. One other note....some printers "read" the paper to auto-select the paper type setting for you. When that happens, sometimes the printer can not detect the transparency and will not proceed with the print. If that happens, put a strip of paper tape (as close to white as possible) along the leading edge (the edge that enters to printer first) of material. This gives the printer something to read. Hopefully, it will not change the settings you took the time to select. Let me know if that works for you. Good luck. John
+luis perez cdipublicidad Hello Luis, The basic components are provided by Ikonics Imaging, 4832 Grand Ave. Duluth, MN 55807 USA, 800-643-1037. They sell many different films. The one I demonstrated is ULTRAPRO 5 mil. They provide the exposure light unit and the spray nozzle for wash out. Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks
hello my friend, I want to congratulate their work. very perfect! Here in Brazil there working with photoresist mask. I contacted the ikonics , but the value is too high for import into Brazil . you know another supplier of mask? I would be grateful if you could help me . hug! att Cristiano Budinsky
@@cornerstone-glassworks Would you be intrested and doing a memorial thing for my truck I have a 2001 Chevy S10 pickup extended cab I have 2 extra of the windows in the back I would like to have my mother and my father's face put in the glass is that something that you would be capable of doing please comment back thank you
@@martinneps9387 Hey Martin, I would be interested in helping you with that. I would need to get some information from you. If you would, write to me directly at john@csgw.com . I will need to get some info from you about the glass you are using. I would also need to see the photos you were wanting to use. Stuff like that. I will keep an eye out for your email. Thanks!
Hi John Great work you make it looks so easy, I have just bought my machine and some rapid mask to give it a try, I am also doing a blog on how to get set up etching / carving glass for us beginners and have included your video link for more people to see and learn. glassetchingdesign.blogspot.co.uk/ Best regards Paul
Amazing demonstration! Thank you!
Thanks for Posting this up John Morrison
Great video for glass etching work
Very good educational video .... enjoyed every minute. Now I know a little more! Thank you.
Hello L, Thanks for taking the time to say so. I fell hard in love with carved glass when I first discovered it. Also, it was the first time I was able to make a full time living as an artist. Thanks again, John
Thanks John. 30 years ago, I did a lot of glass etching. I hand cut but also did photo resist. My material was liquid. I would put layers of tape down and run a straight edge to create a layer (about 3mill) I put my art down on the glass and exposed it to the high UV light. I washed out the glass, etched it, then used another material that sprayed on the resist to soften it for cleaning. Later on, I played with laying up my resist on clear Mylar. It made a sheet much like you show. I spritzed the glass with water, (pre developed), applied the sheet, washed out on the glass, etched and cleaned. Your process is much cleaner. Thank you.
आप यह जानकारी हिंदी भाषा में उपलब्ध करवा सकते हैं क्या? Please.
Great video thanks for posting!
Nice video. Very comprehensive.
Nice drawing behind you brother. Keep it alive and thank you!
Thank you Joe.
Hi John, great video, I appreciate your showing us newbee's how this is done. I have two questions for you, first off where did you get you spray wash nozzle for you washout booth, I know you had someone make the plexi box which I will be able to make, however where did you get the washout nozzle and are you using household water pressure or some kind of power washer? Next question, some of your samples have a painted look to teh finish glass, what type of paint are you using on the sand carved image? Thanks for you help.
this is a fab video full of info etc for the beginner like me. Thanks keep up the videos especially the etching part. Can you tell me how do you tell the difference from which side to put the black negative to make the photo resist. Does it matter ?? I just got mine from ebay and its just rolled up in a black plastic bag with no instructions how to use it .
Thanks for any info regards Alison
In the films I've seen, the glossy side of the photoresist goes towards the negative and UV source, the matte side goes away. Some photoresist brands could be different, but it might be universal. Which direction the negative goes will depend on whether you need the image mirrored to go on the back of the glass. I don't think the side the ink is on matters for the exposure, (it's just blocking light) but it may matter for the original print, depending on your transparency brand.
Can you use photo resist for a stencil over aluminum when etching the aluminum chemically? I am working on a 1927 Buick fuel gauge dial which is made of aluminum and I want to acid etch the “E, 1/4,1/2,3/4, and F” onto the gauge dial!
amazing vid, thanks!
This is brilliant!
Oh thank you you are so helpful 😊
Is there a place you recommend for inexpensive glass blanks
Amazing !
Interesting information, very cool piece, nice video too. Thanks for speaking clearly and explaining as you performed each step. I am wondering though, how does using photoresist differ from cutting the stencil out of an adhesive vinyl cut with a cutting machine? It seems like more work...does it produce crisper lines or ??? I can't really see on my laptop screen, it's a small device. Any education you provide is greatly appreciated by this newbie. Thanks for sharing!
hello. Nice work ! I was wondering if you make an acid etching instead of sandblasting with this photoresist. How deep can acid go into the glass, not to damage the photoresist vinyl.? How the detail comes.Thanks
What settings do you use for drying film with your dehydrator
Neat! Thank you.
hi can I know what a gun you use it for this video ?? and where I can Buy it
Can i engrave glass with regular photoresist film what is used for pcb plates or it must be some special
Awesome. Subscribed!
This is a very helpful. Thank you. Do you know any permanent weather proof way to color glass without refiring glass and fusing colored frit to it?
Hey Michael, Permanent color in an outdoor setting is tough. I have used oil paint successfully in outdoor applications. Amazingly durable but only lends itself to certain kinds of painting. There are few paints that actually bond to glass. Hope this helps.
Great Video what kind of transparency film RU using?
In the video at 6:08.
Thank you
Glad to have you! I want to etch textures on metals any help please...
Hello there, I am unable to dig into metal using sandblasting. I have etched a lot of metal but surface affects only. I haven't done this but I have heard of engraving metals chemically. Good luck with your research. Thanks for writing, John
Thanks for the video. How do you get real fine detail such as small print to come out? I'm having problems with it blowing out letters as I wash it out. Thanks Tony
Make sure your film is pressed in hard, without bubbles, and spray straight on, not at an angle. Different brands will also have a different tack. (stickiness)
how long does it take to dry the stencil?
IS there a starter kit or list of equipment?
Another great vid just love them learn so much :) a quick question for you is the dry photoresist they use for pcb circuit boards
the same as this photoresist?
Hi Dawn, I don't know what is used for circuit boards. It may be something similar. I do not think that the material I use would be capable of the detail require for that kind of work. Thanks for writing. John
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I don't know the answer but I would tend to doubt it. I don't think this film could hold up to that kind of detail. Thanks
I use the plastic razor blades to remove it. It doesn’t harm the glass. Great video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
that exposing machine you used? what it's called?
what exact printer do you have to print on transparent? its a laser? thanks
What is the light roller that you are using in the process of developing the film you referred to as a curing light is that the name of it
Very cool!
what is the song at the end?
Very cool stuff! God bless!
Thanks Chris, Back attcha!
@@cornerstone-glassworks You bet!
Great video would like to know what type of light box / tube was that any d where can that be purchased
"photoresist uv exposure unit" is what you're looking for. There are several types for various industries including sandblasting and circuit board making.
New subscruber here! How glad am I to find your video! I already do glass etching with a sandblaster. I happened across a video using photo resist film a while ago and my brain near on exploded lol I've not been able to find much instruction until I found you. Happily I already have most of the equipment, I need that uv exposure thingy, and to set up a washing station, but other than that, I'm good to go. Hubby is not going to be happy though..we just set up my 'she' shed, and now I need it changed ..oops...😁. Do you happen to have a link for the UV light roller thing please? I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Thanks so much, you've made my day with this video xx
Hello MsTJPink, Sorry, it took me so long to get back to you! With both of my parents going into the hospital and appearing to be entering a new phase of dependency, everything is very compressed. Anyway, it's nice to meet someone use is excited about this craft. BEFORE we go any further, here is the link for the exposure unit I use..... ikonicsimaging.com/equipment/exposure-units/ The round barrel unit fits your typical 8.5" x 11" size but can be utilized to accommodate larger stencils. Question: What part of the world do you reside in? My wife and I have been asking ourselves for years, "Who is going to continue on this exciting craft once I'm gone?". There doesn't appear to be any new blood around here lately. I'm not planning on retiring any time soon, but we are getting older every year. Anyhoo, I would be happy to help you get started if I can. I fell hard in love with carved glass almost 40 years ago and I'm still loving it. Good luck!
Great video. What is the type of clear vinyl used to print your art work on ? Also is there a software favorite you use ?
+Rick Eyman Hi Rick, In the past I have used printable transparency "paper" from the office supply store and set my printer to "transparency" then set it on the darkest setting then print it out. Most printers of late don't have a transparency setting. However, I have been able to use "AccuArt3" or "AccuBlack" printable transparency sheets from Ikonics (www.ikonics.com). They work much better than the stuff I used to get from the office supply. The trick is to get your printer to print something that blocks light. I have 2 printers (Epson WF-7610 & Epson Artisan 1430) that I have found a combination of settings that print the best home-made film positives I have ever gotten from any printer. Part of the trick is to find "color management" in your settings and choose the "darkest" setting, your "highest density" and set the "contrast" to full. Some printers will not even try to print on transparent material because it scans the edge of the paper first and does not recognize the transparency. In this scenario you can trick the printer by putting some white tape along the leading edge of the transparency (opposite the printing side). I hope this helps. Thanks for writing. John
+John Morrison Hey Rick, forgot to mention that I do most of my graphic work in CorelDraw. I have been using CorelDraw since version 4. They are up to X6 or X7 now. CorelDraw is some pretty powerful software but version X5 is pretty temperamental. I like it but it is very glitchy. Sometimes annoying. Later, John
+John Morrison Thanks for your help. Enjoyed your video.
+John Morrison Coral draw, there are so many different versions of 7. Which are you referring to ?
Can this masking system be used to silver (mirror), paint, as well as sandblast? I am particularly interested in using it for silvering small pieces with fine detail.
Hey EffumGood1, Sorry it took so long to get back to you. To answer your question about using this u.v. stencil system for glass silvering....I would not think so. There are several reasons why not. One is the stencil itself would, most likely, taint the silver corrupting it. Also, even after you wash out the details, there is still a thin clear film that would block your chemicals. BTW, here is a link to the u.v. light exposure unit that I use. ikonicsimaging.com/equipment/exposure-units/ Here is a link to the film ikonicsimaging.com/ultrapro/ Good luck!
John, what do you have set up for your spray booth area????
Hey Paul, if all I were going to etch were trophies, awards and table-top stuff, I could use a sandblast cabinet. However, since I do large projects as well, I made my sandblast booth 13 feet wide, 9 feet tall and 9 feet deep. I figured that the largest piece of glass I was likely to order would be 8 foot by 12 foot. So I made my booth to accommodate that. Twice, so far, I have had to work with a larger piece of glass sticking out of the door while carving and etching. Good luck.
Can you provide a link on where to buy both film and developing kit?
Hello sir thank you for the info! May i ask what sand and grit number use for engraving granite? Hoping for your reply! Btw, I'm from Philippines....
Can you use the same photoresist for making printing plates for an etching press?
Hey Shab. Please forgive my delayed response. Some how you got by me. To answer your question.....I would think it's possible. Just try it and see what happens. Thanks, John
John, if you pleased- one more question: after you have cleared drawing in the shower, how do you steak the picture on the glass? Do you take off second side of the film (glossy, I think)? And if you take it off- how did your image keeps on the glass? Thanks, one more time :-)
There were steel pieces adhered to the back side of the glass. After he removed the magnets from the front, water underneath was keeping the sheet in place. (It would blow away from the sprayer without the magnets.)
Hey Geister69, Yes, you can use the u.v. cured adhesives with smooth FLAT metal surfaces. It must be glass to metal. Metal to metal does not work because 1 side has to be transparent to let the light cure the glue. Thanks
can you please share the link from where we can buy Ultra Pro film
Can you download a picture from the internet and print it to sandblast without altering it? You are a great source of information. I love your videos. What size nozzle do you use in this video?
Hello Connie, When it comes to Etching a photograph, you need to work with a company who knows how to "doctor" a photo that they can then make a stencil for sandblasting glass from. The original photo will have a lot to do with how successful the stencil is. It is best to let a company like Ikonics Imaging to process the photo and make the stencil. It is also possible to PRINT a color photo directly on the glass. M3 glass company in Dallas, Texas can print your image onto the glass using a fine ceramic frit which is then fired on permanently. Some sign companies, today, can print your image directly onto your glass. Images look good printed directly onto glass. It is more vibrant than a printed photograph sitting behind a piece of glass. I hope that gives you something to chew on. Ciao!
Nice work, you use remover it's faster than peeling
Hi John, I'm curious were is a good place to buy thicker glass such as 3/8 or 1/2? Thank you, Zak
Those of you looking for glass should probably search locally first, to avoid shipping fees, or at least high fees. Glass is heavy and will cost more to ship than buy, in some cases. eBay and Amazon may also have some suppliers that could meet your needs, with low or no shipping costs.
Hi where do you get the ultraviolet light machine?
Hi Christine, I got my little exposure unit at ikonicsimaging.com. You can also use a fluorescent black light. They work fine. You can even use the sun. In the earliest days of expirementing with the glue I would assemble my glass behind a closed door. Once everything was in place I would throw open the door letting sunlight in on my glass. In 2 or 3 minutes I would close the door again then check out. Any U.V. generating light bulb will work. I hope that helps.
]Thanks, John
Hi John, I realize that this video goes back a ways. I'm wondering what clear film you printed your design on? Great video by the way! Thank you.
Hey Terence, the film I use to print my own "film positives" is from ikonics.com . It is called AccuBlack inkjet film. It comes in a couple of sizes and it is the best film I have used. I just posted a video "Glass Robot part 1". Part 2 will be using a homemade film positive to etch some fine detail on the robot. Check it out if you get the chance. Thanks for writing. John
Hi John,, Thank you. You do great work by the way..
Can to recommand to do the same but on granite? Where find photo resist film. Thank-you very much for help. I live in Romania -Europe
Hello Daniel, You can use photoresist on a smooth, polished piece or granite or marble. Most of the time it will stick okay. Being that granite is so hard, you may see that the resist can not last as long as you need depending on how deep you want to go. You just have to experiment on a scrap piece of granite. I buy my photoresist from Ikonics Imaging. ikonicsimaging.com/ikonics/contact/ Good luck!
Is photoresist and photosensitive the same?
What are you using for a printer and what are you using for a photo exposing film we are a small company and love your work just trying to get started up
Sorry for the long delay in responding. I use Epson printers and you have to select the correct settings to get the printer to lay down enough ink to block the light during exposure. Just experiment with the settings. When you go into color control you want to set SATURATION all the way up and set CONTRAST all the way up. Hope this helps.
Which Epson printer(s) do you recommend? What substrate?@@cornerstone-glassworks
Hi, Mr.John your Work and video are excellent, I am a beginner so few steps unable to understand, I have some questions please guide me, I shall be grateful to you. which chemical use in spray for etching, name of photoflim and this flim can I use for metal etching. Will wait for the answers many thanks
Developing the film is done with water. Etching the glass is done with sandblasting, not chemicals. (It can be done with etching cream, a different process.) The brand of photoresist film John uses is in the video at 6:08.
Are you just using low light, Yellow light or actual dark lights?
Hey Susan, sorry for the slow reply. Computer issues. Any UV generating light source will work. A black light will work. Thanks
Hi, John. What size (of grains) and type of abrazive did you use? I think it is oxide alluminium, but what is the size... and great thanks for this video :-)
Hi, the size or grit of the aluminum oxide I use is 120 grit. Any larger grit and your project may not look as nice. If all I did was trophy work I would use 220 grit to accommodate the thinnest lines in my photoresist graphics. But I fing the 120 grit the perfect inbetween size to work on my large and small projects. Good luck!
Thanks a lot :-)
Sorry for the long absence. The grit size I use is 120. If I did nothing but trophy work I would use 150 to 200. Thanks
Do you print to transparency in mirror?
Hey Craig, I'm not sure I understand the question. If you mean, can photoresist be used on mirror...........yes it can. Front or back. Thanks!
What kind of blaster do you use? I do not want to spend a bunch of money into one but i do want one.
Well Justin I have been using the same ScatBlast low pressure pressure pot for the last 30 years now. I don't think they are stilol in business. Cost $400. 30 years ago. Not sure what they would run today. There is a company named "Brut" who sells sandblasting equipment and supplies. You would need a 5 or 7 horse compressor to try to do anything. And a 10 horse compressor is essential If you want to work at it for real. Good luck.
John Morrison can you recommend a cheap one that will or should work? I was looking at harbor freight.
Hey Justin, I do not know of a scaled down version of sandblasting. It requires so much pressure to get the abrasive to etch the glass that you have to have a substantial compressor to drive it. A syphon feed sandblaster should be cheaper than a pressure pot but I have never priced one. You might look into sandblasting equipment that is used with a glass etching "cabinet". Good luck
where do you purchase the photoresist
Hey Ron & Gayle, I think I forgot to answer your question. Sorry.
I buy my photoresist film from Ikonics Imaging. Web address: ikonicsimaging.com . I personally use ULTRA Pro, 5 mil. There are at least 2 companies that makes this stuff (Raysist Co.) and they all make several products for various applications. I hope this helps. Thanks, John
Sandblast medium? Soda?
friend John Morrison, can I use any light sensitive film?
Hello friend, There are a handful of photoresist films you may use for etching glass. My favorite is provided by IKONICS. They have many versions of photoresist. The one I like is UltraPro. Here is a link to the web page where you can buy it -- ikonicsimaging.com/films/photoresist-films/ -- There is another brand called 'Rayzist'. However, I have used Ikonics for the last 20 years or more. Good luck with your research. John
hi...where can i purchase the photoresist kit?
You can start by getting everything you need from ikonicsimaging.com . Good luck
Will it "wash out" during my morning shower?
Nope, not even close. You need a spray nozzle that produces a tiny bead of water at a high enough pressure to wash out fine detail. The company that sold me my wash out gun has changed their nozzle to a cheaper one which does not work very well. I had to trace down the manufacture of the old nozzle in order to get the performance back up to snuff. Thanks-for-nothing-Ikonics. Hope this helped.
love to video put you said what like of printer you use
I use an Epson Artisan printer. I don't know if all the Epsons work for film positives or only the Artisan series but I have 2 Epsons that do what I need (Epson Artisan 1430 & Epson Workfource WF 7610). If you get an Epson, write me back and I'll tell you what settings I use for film positives. Thanks, John
where can I buy photoresist in texas?
Hey Juan, I don't know if it's available in Texas. Go to ikonicsimaging.com and they will ship it to you. Good luck.
Does this work as a stencil for paint aswell?
+Pul5ar Hello PulSar, This stencil method is not effective for painting. When the photoresist mask is applied to your smooth surface (glass) there is a very thin membrane that disintegrates almost instantly when sandblasted. This membrane will not let your paint reach the surface you want to paint. One option would be to sandblast it first, then spray your paint on. However, this is usually not successful because you would need to peel off the photoresist mask while the paint is still wet. I hope this answers your question. Thanks, John
John Morrison Alright, thanks
Hi.. Great video. I really want to know about your watching system... Do you mind?
Hello Manrique, I'm afraid I don't know what you mean by "watching" system. Can you clarify that for me? Thanks
From where I can get/buy this SR3000 photoresist film in India? I would like to know about SR3000 photoresist film in detail. Kindly reply.
Hi, I don't know if Ikonics sells in India. I imagion they would ship overseas. I would get in touch with them online. Good luck. John
Ohh, my attention :-( I see now. But I dont still understand really "sand" does not make holes in mask on the glass? And how much WATTS in your lampe? Thanks.
The sand does etch the mask, but most of it bounces off the soft plastic. If you hold the nozzle in one place or spray for too long, the mask will eventually form holes.
Photo drum? Link?
Hello, I would like to know how I can purchase this adhesive film here in Brazil, do you have a representative or can you send it?
Hello, the location of this product online is 'ikonicsimaging.com/imagepro-super/' . I don't know if they will ship to Brazil or not. Good luck!
Hey! What is the name of the curing light you are using? I love the size of it!!
+Adreanna Flick Hello Adreanna, The light I use is provided by Ikonics Imaging company who also makes the film. It has "Letralite" printed on the side of it. Most black lights will work as well but I like the timer on the Letralite. Hope this helps. Merry Christmas!
Hi, a very similar process is used in electronics to produce printed circuit boards (pcb's). You can search TH-cam for "photoresist" & "pcb". The photo sensible film (which gets exposed in the semi cylindrical shape) is called photoresist and it reacts to UV light (plenty of photoresist available on eBay.com). Some people do use ordinary incandescent UV bulbs (as bulbs do emit UV light in addition to visible light), some other people have been successful exposing their plate to plain sunlight. UV bulbs, UV neon tubes (sometimes ripped from nail curing devices) and UV LEd's are usually preferred...
Can you use this for applying ink instead of sand. Also this brand is very expensive. Is there an alternative?
Hey Steve, this film can not be used for an ink strategy. When the film is placed on the glass, there is a very thin membrane that covers the areas to be etched. When you begin sandblasting, this film immediately disintegrates allowing the abrasive to etch the glass. This same membrane would prevent your ink from reaching the surface of your material. Hope this helps.
What about after the sand blast?
Hey Steve, after the glass has been etched you could apply ink and the photoresist would act as a stencil for your ink. One caution...the photo resist would most likely try to absorb your ink making it softer and prone to release from the glass. Now this shouldn't be a real problem. Just do not pour on the ink like a puddle. About the cost of the photoresist, tell me about it. They all cost about the same. Just pick the one you like the best. Good luck.
What ink jet printer do you recommend? Thank you
Hello Annette, I have been sticking with EPSON printers for years now because, even thought they do not have a "transparency" setting....I can get the best homemade film-positives printed by them. This requires the right settings and printing on AccuBlack transparency sheets sold by iconics.com. On your EPSON printer, go to settings....select paper type as PRESENTATION MATT FINISH.......then go to your COLOR CONTROLS (you may have to look around to find them) then turn 'CONTRAST' - 'SATURATION' - 'DENSITY' all the way UP!! And that will get you a very usable film positive to use with your photoresist. I hope this helps. Ciao!
John Morrison thank you. One more question does the epson have to be HD? Or will a good quality epson ink jet work just fine. And thank you😊
@@Annettec457 Hey Annette, none of my EPSON printers are designated as HD. Any should do. Would HD print better transparencies? Don't know. Good luck!
Do you have a supplier for this photoresist in philippines? I hope you can help me. :-)
Can you share what type of nozzle setup you're using, i.e., brand, nozzle size and type, grit type and size. Thank you.
Hey C Rob, the water nozzle I use was part of the Ikonics Image photoresist exposure system that I use. The system includes the light exposure unit and the nozzle. I ordered a new nozzle a couple of years ago and it was different. I did not like it as much so I continue to use the old one. You want a fine strong mist. It should be uncomfortable to shoot your hand with it. Hope that helps.
Hey C Rob, sorry for the delayed response. I use Type 2 nozzels in both ceramic and carbide steel. You just choose the opening size you want when you purchase.I buy my stuff from TP Tool. www.tptools.com Good luck
John Morrison hi. Checked the sight out. I only see medium opening Skat Blast carbide tips. Will this work for photo blasting on glass and stone? I did see the ceramic tips but they said not for use in cabinets. Do YOU not blast in cabinet?
Hello, sir
the name of the ultraviolet device is what, I want to buy, but do not know his name. sorry if my english is not good, I use google traslate.
Budi Setiawan checkout Letralite
"photoresist uv exposure unit" is what you're looking for. Letralite is one brand and you can also find tutorials to make your own.
Sir can you guide me how can I buy that photoresist light sensitive film. I m from India. What is the product name and it's nanufacturer. So that i can purchase online
T.Y. For the tutorial. But frankly, if you want to sell your services, It's your art in the back of the desk that i want to see sandblasted in glass.
hello
i have a problem in film when i wash with high pressure. it take time to see the image when i continue to wash the film damage. can you please help me
Hey there, You may need more water pressure or a spray nozzle the creates a finer bead of water or both. You have to wash out your details before the film starts to dissolve. You can't keep washing the stencil indefinitly.
i have everything but i don't know what the problem. it is possible to get your email to show some photos of my film after washing.thank you Mr. John
Send photos to 'cornerstoneglass@att.net'
Soda medium?
Hi, You can use Sodium Hydroxide Solution to remove the photo resist after etching. Use 12g of NaOH with 1 liter of water and submerge the artwork in it for 5 minutes. The photo-resist should come off easily.
Thanks for the tip.
Hi John, this is a nice video. I want to start with sandblasting and I have an Epson Workforce WF7620. Could you share your settings for the WF 7610 for film positives?
Hello MrCkong, I'll try to describe the settings to you. Naturally it is easier when you can look at the screen. You select Print then select the Epson printer (if you have more than one. Select "Preferences", then select "Best photo", then in Paper type select "Presentation paper matte". Then go back to the top and select the "Advanced" tab. Select "color controls" if not already selected then click the "Settings" button. A little window will pop up where you will make your last settings. Now set your "Contrast", "Saturation" and "Density" slide controls all the way up (+). All the way to the right. Then select "OK" and go to printing. After that the quality of your transparency will depend on the quality of your transparency material. I like the "AcuBlack" from IkonicsImaging.com. One other note....some printers "read" the paper to auto-select the paper type setting for you. When that happens, sometimes the printer can not detect the transparency and will not proceed with the print. If that happens, put a strip of paper tape (as close to white as possible) along the leading edge (the edge that enters to printer first) of material. This gives the printer something to read. Hopefully, it will not change the settings you took the time to select. Let me know if that works for you. Good luck. John
Hi John, thanks for answering this. :) I will let you know my results once I have the equipment.
Good brother, I would like to know the names of the products and of the machines I want a business that
+luis perez cdipublicidad Hello Luis, The basic components are provided by Ikonics Imaging, 4832 Grand Ave. Duluth, MN 55807 USA, 800-643-1037. They sell many different films. The one I demonstrated is ULTRAPRO 5 mil. They provide the exposure light unit and the spray nozzle for wash out. Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks
+John Morrison
Excellent nozzle washing and sandblasting nozzle prices also do not know please Thanks
hello my friend, I want to congratulate their work. very perfect! Here in Brazil there working with photoresist mask. I contacted the ikonics , but the value is too high for import into Brazil . you know another supplier of mask? I would be grateful if you could help me . hug! att Cristiano Budinsky
Apa nama kertasnya tuan
Do you still do this stuff yes or no please comment back
Hello Martin, Yep! Still goin' at it full time for 38 years now. Still lovin' it! Thanks for asking.
@@cornerstone-glassworks Would you be intrested and doing a memorial thing for my truck I have a 2001 Chevy S10 pickup extended cab I have 2 extra of the windows in the back I would like to have my mother and my father's face put in the glass is that something that you would be capable of doing please comment back thank you
@@martinneps9387 Hey Martin, I would be interested in helping you with that. I would need to get some information from you. If you would, write to me directly at john@csgw.com . I will need to get some info from you about the glass you are using. I would also need to see the photos you were wanting to use. Stuff like that. I will keep an eye out for your email. Thanks!
can you help me fund my bussiness like that
Hello Saraza, I don't understand exactly what you are asking. If you want to write me privately, do so through my website at csgw.com . Thanks, John
Как купить приобрести технологию материалы.? Мой почта stroymag@list.ru
Hi John
Great work you make it looks so easy, I have just bought my machine and some rapid mask to give it a try, I am also doing a blog on how to get set up etching / carving glass for us beginners and have included your video link for more people to see and learn.
glassetchingdesign.blogspot.co.uk/
Best regards Paul
Paul Richardson Thank you Paul, John
you waiste a lot of water
or just buy some glass etching cream