Fantastic! Thanks! Finally someone explains that some Mini-Split Heat Pumps can in fact produce efficient heating as well as cooling. The install company that gave us an estimate never explained Hyperheating Pumps, and wanted to use heating coils as the only option.
This is a great video. Mini splits are great for shoulder seasons and cooling. I am very happy with my mini-splits but they are not an efficient sole heat source for cold climates- even with Hyper-Heat. The branch circuit amperage required implies why the HyperHeat has better efficiency than Standard at lower temperatures. Hyperheat uses resistive heaters to heat the air to then draw heat from it to convert to BTUs and heat your home. What does that mean? I have a 20K BTU compressor heating 1000 sq ft in New England. When the outside temperature drops below 35, my electricity usage almost doubles. Because of my cost for electricity, it is cheaper to heat the space with $4/gal fuel oil than the mini-split.
Interesting perspective! Electricity rates have climbed significantly nationwide probably because the government is highly incentivizing people to go electric. We don't know all the factors involved but maybe there is a chance your outdoor unit is undersize. Typically 1,000 sq ft is sized around 24k or higher depending on insulation level. Then again, we don't know all the details.
Mini Splits do not use resistive heating. The outdoor heating coil option is for ice build up under certain conditions. Not for heating the space inside
You answered my question. We had a heat pump in Dubuque IA in 1978. It worked well down to about 35F, below that the strip resistance heating coils kicked in and made that meter really spin.
Thank you so much for making these videos! I just purchased a non-hyper heat MXZ-SM60NAM. My area rarely gets down to 15 degrees but I would have bought a hyper heat anyway for the efficiency if they had a 60k btu heat pump, but they only go up to 48k. It gets really hot here, so I need that 60k. Yes, it is important to look at the data for the size and model of the units you need. I think your examples were pretty extreme in differences. I think most new Mitsubishi non-hyper heats are Energy Star.
You're welcome! Some people choose to go with 2 hyper heating outdoors since Mitsubishi doesn't make a hyper heat 60k outdoor. You really do need to go model number by model number to see what makes sense for your application. It sounds like you made the best decision for your space. Thanks for taking the time to comment though!
Would you recommend Hyper heat if I live in the Czech Republic, where the average annual temperature in winter is -1°C? Or is an ordinary unit enough for me? There are days when the temperature drops to -13°C, but that's about 10-15 days every year.
You are right on the brink of where the standard unit begins to be inefficient. Anything below 0 C the standard unit will begin to lose capacity. As long as you properly size it accordingly, you can go with a standard. If you want consistent output, go with hyper heat. I'm not sure if Europe has the same product offerings as North America so that is something you should research.
This is a really helpful and informative video. Greatly appreciated you covering so much ground from performance, to sound, to cost. One question I'd love to get more insight into is efficiency. I noted the standard is 19 SEER and 10.6 EER overall whereas the Hyper is 18 SEER and 12.5 EER, but what is the difference in efficiency (vice capacity) at colder temps? I'm a total novice with this stuff but I suppose a system drawing electricity at a 36k BTU rate but only delivering 19k BTU in heat (loss of 17k BTU in energy?) is less efficient than a 36k BTU Hyper Heat delivering 28k BTU (loss of only 8k BTU). Is that accurate? Welcome any further clarification, thanks!
Thanks for the comment! Think of BTUs as output while electricity is input. The standard 30,000 outdoor unit is wired to a 25 amp breaker while the hyper heat equivalent is wired to a 40 amp breaker. The SEER ratings are similar because the heat output is based on electrical usage. The standard unit uses less electricity but doesn't produce as much heat when compared to hyper heat. Practically speaking, the standard outdoor will be working its very hardest and pulling the most electricity it can in the cold while only outputting half of its rated capacity. You might be paying less for electricity with a standard outdoor but you won't be getting as much heat. I hope that makes sense!
yeah i need to find a watts vs heating chart for the hyper vs non, to compare...... For me I'm eventually going to run these off batteries for a very small insulated space, so power consumption is key... I'll have fuels heaters for backup , but need to try to minimize that.
Clarification would be that HZ are the two letters that come after all hyper-heat MULTI zone outdoor units. The FS single zone series is hyper heat and does not have the HZ on the end. Sorry for the confusion.
I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area and my contractor recommended the Mitsubishi MXZ-SM60NAM for my 2100sqft home which is well insulated. I did my own Manual J calc which shows I need around a 3 ton unit. I was able to convince the installer to go down to a 4 ton system (MXZ-SM48NAM) instead of the 5ton he recommended. Due to the home being split level we have to run a 3 air handler ducted system. I see that this system will no qualify for the tax credit. Can you recommend a Mitsubishi system that will qualify for the tax credit? For reference the air handlers are 2 x SVZ-KP18NA and PEAD-A12AAB.
I hope this comment isn't coming too late to you. No matter whether you go with a 3 ton to a 5 ton, all multi-zone all ducted solutions do not qualify. What you can do is incorporate 1 non-ducted indoor unit into the multi-zone combination (like a 6k in a laundry room, etc.) and that would qualify for the IRA tax credit. Hope this helps!
I live in coastal delmarva. I have a 12k Mitsubishi Hyper Heat with a ceiling mounted head unit (attic above) in a 10’x20’ sunroom. The room is insulated above the ceiling and has closed cell spray foam below the floor. 3 sides of the room are just leaky glass slider doors. I keep the temp at 61F in the winter, and turn it up to 68F when we use the room (average 2 hours a day). When temps are low 30s or below, it takes hours for the room to warm up. Is that normal? Should I keep the room at a higher temperature all the time? What would the impact be on electricity use? Thanks
If the doors are leaky then you are adding more demand at a rapid pace. It would be undersized considering the leakage. If you want it to be consistently comfortable then I would keep it at 68 in the colder days so there is less ramp up.
How far can I run the line set. I know that the more corners the line set has to bend around the shorter the total distance. Does this distance depend on the compressor model. I have a mitshabishe hyper heat.
@@gotductlessusa ALL heat pumps (and AC only systems) absolutely need gas lines, but these are for transferring refrigerant gas and liquid between the outdoor and indoor units - NOT fuel gas lines (natural gas or propane for a furnace). I suspect @Movie16Master was confusing the two.
Standard will be just fine. Standard can work in freezing temperature. However, it is wiser to go with hyper heat if you live in an area where it's consistently below freezing.
You can undersize the outdoor unit IF you are oversizing the indoor units for the spaces they are in. For example - if you size a bedroom with a 6k indoor but it really only needs 3k BTU, then you can undersize the outdoor unit by that 3k.
So I'm confused. I am a home owner, not an installer. If I have a hyper heat, if it gets really cold will my house be colder? I live in a climate that had 30 F below zero for a few weeks this year. And it can also get over 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer, will it not be able to cool as well?
We can clear up any confusion. If you install a hyper heat system, you will get consistent heat down -4 F. So if you live in a climate where it gets colder than 30 F often you will still be covered. It will also cool effectively up to 110 F. I hope that clears up any confusion.
What do you think about having 3 zones of 12k on a 30k outdoor unit , hyperheat system in canada with low temperature.. will it be harder to heat the whole house ?
Thanks for all of the information that you provided. I currently have a standard Mitsubishi mini split. Does the hyperheat upgrade only apply to swapping out the outdoor unit or do you have to upgrade the wall mounted indoor units as well?
You can definitely swap a standard with a hyper heat model. If you have a 3 ton-5 ton standard outdoor right now and you want to switch to hyper heat, you'll need to add a branch box which can be complex and laborious. It may or may not be worth it depending on how your standard performs on the coldest days.
So I live in New Jersey, I would def go with the hyper heat, I want to use it as my primary source of heat and eliminate all the plumbing from the hydronics system, am I crazy? It is a gut job and I like the features of the mistsubishi system
Definitely not crazy. Many people do it. Some people would keep the hydronic system as a backup in case something breaks down with the mini split. Mini splits are amazing but they aren't 100% perfect for endless years. Some brands are more reliable than others. However, if you are on a budget and had to choose one over the other, the mini splits are definitely a great choice.
I live in Long Island I’m wondering if I should get Mitsubishi standard are Mitsubishi hyper heat Our winters haven’t been that bad in the last few years need a little advice
Hi there! If this is your primary heating source in your house it is recommended to go with hyper heat. If you go with a standard unit you will be losing efficiency and capacity the lower the temperature outside. Hyper heat guarantees heat down to -13F with 100% capacity at 5F.
I have hundreds of happy customers with the Mitsubishi Hyper Heat systems. They work great at 15 degrees Fahrenheit. You just have to size the system properly for cold climates.
Repair costs wil be dependent on the contractor that you use to do the repair. The parts are similar in price and are both covered under a max 12 year warranty, minimum 7 year compressor 5 year parts warranty.
Good video; thank you. I’m in SoCal and I think mini splits are beyond awesome when new. 8 - 10 years down the road our experience has been they are brutal (costs) to have the fan wheel/condenser cleaned, and replacing a switching valve is cost prohibitive (and the repair tech hands you off to a sales guy super fast). I found an 18k btu online for $2k delivered, and my local HVAC wants $12k. 😮 We bought a portable heater for now.
Thanks for the input. There are DIY kits you can buy if you want to save money and do it yourself (gotductless.com/products/speedclean-mini-split-cleaning-bib-kit-360). If you need a pro to do it, try to get them to do it more frequently as they will charge much higher if the system hasn't been cleaned in years.
This is the first time that I get a clear explanation of the heat pump performance. Thanks!
No problem! Happy to help!
Fantastic! Thanks! Finally someone explains that some Mini-Split Heat Pumps can in fact produce efficient heating as well as cooling. The install company that gave us an estimate never explained Hyperheating Pumps, and wanted to use heating coils as the only option.
@@DrDaab Mitsubishi h2i plus will heat down to -15 f. Cooling and heating with Mitsubishi mini splits is the way to go
Plus are only available in single zone form but yes!
This is a great video. Mini splits are great for shoulder seasons and cooling. I am very happy with my mini-splits but they are not an efficient sole heat source for cold climates- even with Hyper-Heat.
The branch circuit amperage required implies why the HyperHeat has better efficiency than Standard at lower temperatures. Hyperheat uses resistive heaters to heat the air to then draw heat from it to convert to BTUs and heat your home.
What does that mean?
I have a 20K BTU compressor heating 1000 sq ft in New England. When the outside temperature drops below 35, my electricity usage almost doubles. Because of my cost for electricity, it is cheaper to heat the space with $4/gal fuel oil than the mini-split.
Interesting perspective! Electricity rates have climbed significantly nationwide probably because the government is highly incentivizing people to go electric. We don't know all the factors involved but maybe there is a chance your outdoor unit is undersize. Typically 1,000 sq ft is sized around 24k or higher depending on insulation level. Then again, we don't know all the details.
Mini Splits do not use resistive heating. The outdoor heating coil option is for ice build up under certain conditions. Not for heating the space inside
You answered my question. We had a heat pump in Dubuque IA in 1978. It worked well down to about 35F, below that the strip resistance heating coils kicked in and made that meter really spin.
yeah electricity was up for me when I used it in NY
@JeffreyRaymond-kf6ct hyper heat Mitsubishi does not have heater strips,its a more improved heat pump...
Thank you so much for making these videos! I just purchased a non-hyper heat MXZ-SM60NAM. My area rarely gets down to 15 degrees but I would have bought a hyper heat anyway for the efficiency if they had a 60k btu heat pump, but they only go up to 48k. It gets really hot here, so I need that 60k. Yes, it is important to look at the data for the size and model of the units you need. I think your examples were pretty extreme in differences. I think most new Mitsubishi non-hyper heats are Energy Star.
You're welcome! Some people choose to go with 2 hyper heating outdoors since Mitsubishi doesn't make a hyper heat 60k outdoor. You really do need to go model number by model number to see what makes sense for your application. It sounds like you made the best decision for your space. Thanks for taking the time to comment though!
Great video. Explained very well to understand the difference
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for making this video
No problem 😊
Would you recommend Hyper heat if I live in the Czech Republic, where the average annual temperature in winter is -1°C? Or is an ordinary unit enough for me? There are days when the temperature drops to -13°C, but that's about 10-15 days every year.
You are right on the brink of where the standard unit begins to be inefficient. Anything below 0 C the standard unit will begin to lose capacity. As long as you properly size it accordingly, you can go with a standard. If you want consistent output, go with hyper heat. I'm not sure if Europe has the same product offerings as North America so that is something you should research.
Excellent video! Thanks for the knowledge. 🙂
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, well explained
Thanks for watching!
Super clear and great information!
Glad it was helpful!
This is a really helpful and informative video. Greatly appreciated you covering so much ground from performance, to sound, to cost. One question I'd love to get more insight into is efficiency. I noted the standard is 19 SEER and 10.6 EER overall whereas the Hyper is 18 SEER and 12.5 EER, but what is the difference in efficiency (vice capacity) at colder temps? I'm a total novice with this stuff but I suppose a system drawing electricity at a 36k BTU rate but only delivering 19k BTU in heat (loss of 17k BTU in energy?) is less efficient than a 36k BTU Hyper Heat delivering 28k BTU (loss of only 8k BTU). Is that accurate? Welcome any further clarification, thanks!
Thanks for the comment! Think of BTUs as output while electricity is input. The standard 30,000 outdoor unit is wired to a 25 amp breaker while the hyper heat equivalent is wired to a 40 amp breaker. The SEER ratings are similar because the heat output is based on electrical usage. The standard unit uses less electricity but doesn't produce as much heat when compared to hyper heat. Practically speaking, the standard outdoor will be working its very hardest and pulling the most electricity it can in the cold while only outputting half of its rated capacity. You might be paying less for electricity with a standard outdoor but you won't be getting as much heat. I hope that makes sense!
yeah i need to find a watts vs heating chart for the hyper vs non, to compare...... For me I'm eventually going to run these off batteries for a very small insulated space, so power consumption is key... I'll have fuels heaters for backup , but need to try to minimize that.
So im looking at the MSz-FS18NA it says its hyper heat but does not end with the HZ, so im confused.
Clarification would be that HZ are the two letters that come after all hyper-heat MULTI zone outdoor units. The FS single zone series is hyper heat and does not have the HZ on the end. Sorry for the confusion.
I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area and my contractor recommended the Mitsubishi MXZ-SM60NAM for my 2100sqft home which is well insulated. I did my own Manual J calc which shows I need around a 3 ton unit. I was able to convince the installer to go down to a 4 ton system (MXZ-SM48NAM) instead of the 5ton he recommended. Due to the home being split level we have to run a 3 air handler ducted system. I see that this system will no qualify for the tax credit. Can you recommend a Mitsubishi system that will qualify for the tax credit? For reference the air handlers are 2 x SVZ-KP18NA and PEAD-A12AAB.
I hope this comment isn't coming too late to you. No matter whether you go with a 3 ton to a 5 ton, all multi-zone all ducted solutions do not qualify. What you can do is incorporate 1 non-ducted indoor unit into the multi-zone combination (like a 6k in a laundry room, etc.) and that would qualify for the IRA tax credit. Hope this helps!
I live in coastal delmarva. I have a 12k Mitsubishi Hyper Heat with a ceiling mounted head unit (attic above) in a 10’x20’ sunroom. The room is insulated above the ceiling and has closed cell spray foam below the floor. 3 sides of the room are just leaky glass slider doors. I keep the temp at 61F in the winter, and turn it up to 68F when we use the room (average 2 hours a day). When temps are low 30s or below, it takes hours for the room to warm up. Is that normal? Should I keep the room at a higher temperature all the time? What would the impact be on electricity use? Thanks
If the doors are leaky then you are adding more demand at a rapid pace. It would be undersized considering the leakage. If you want it to be consistently comfortable then I would keep it at 68 in the colder days so there is less ramp up.
@ Thanks
How far can I run the line set. I know that the more corners the line set has to bend around the shorter the total distance. Does this distance depend on the compressor model. I have a mitshabishe hyper heat.
It depends on the model. Typically non-smart multi outdoor units have a max piping length of 82 ft per indoor, and 160-230 total piping length max.
Very nice presentation. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Can the outdoor unit be installed in basement or it has to be outside ?
Outdoor unit definitely needs to be outside. It needs to be able to pull from an infinite source of heat.
Is the mitsubishi heat pump h2i mr slim 18000 btu heat pump a good unit?
yes, it is a great unit. We highly recommend it. Contact us to figure out which accessories and such you need for a successful installation.
I was reading through the manual of the hyperheat and saw it mention a gas line.
Does it require gas for solid heating?
No gas lines required. It is strictly electric. The outdoor unit needs to be installed a distance away from gas lines.
@@gotductlessusa ALL heat pumps (and AC only systems) absolutely need gas lines, but these are for transferring refrigerant gas and liquid between the outdoor and indoor units - NOT fuel gas lines (natural gas or propane for a furnace). I suspect @Movie16Master was confusing the two.
Is the hyper heat worth it for someone who lives in San Antonio Tx or would recommended sticking with the standard?
Standard will be just fine. Standard can work in freezing temperature. However, it is wiser to go with hyper heat if you live in an area where it's consistently below freezing.
Hi there!
Hyper heat is the same with hyper inverter?
what you think asbout undersizing outdoor unit?
You can undersize the outdoor unit IF you are oversizing the indoor units for the spaces they are in. For example - if you size a bedroom with a 6k indoor but it really only needs 3k BTU, then you can undersize the outdoor unit by that 3k.
Thanks for your explanation very well done
Glad you enjoyed it!
So below minus 13 do you build a fire under the outdoor coil?
Ha! That is great. Burn fossil fuels or other resources for heat in temperatures colder than -13F.
Awsome video thank you!
Glad you liked it!
So I'm confused. I am a home owner, not an installer. If I have a hyper heat, if it gets really cold will my house be colder? I live in a climate that had 30 F below zero for a few weeks this year. And it can also get over 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer, will it not be able to cool as well?
We can clear up any confusion. If you install a hyper heat system, you will get consistent heat down -4 F. So if you live in a climate where it gets colder than 30 F often you will still be covered. It will also cool effectively up to 110 F. I hope that clears up any confusion.
What do you think about having 3 zones of 12k on a 30k outdoor unit , hyperheat system in canada with low temperature.. will it be harder to heat the whole house ?
Is the hyper heat more effective at cooling as well in the summer?
Thank you. You helped me out.
You're welcome! Glad I could help.
Thanks for all of the information that you provided. I currently have a standard Mitsubishi mini split. Does the hyperheat upgrade only apply to swapping out the outdoor unit or do you have to upgrade the wall mounted indoor units as well?
You can definitely swap a standard with a hyper heat model. If you have a 3 ton-5 ton standard outdoor right now and you want to switch to hyper heat, you'll need to add a branch box which can be complex and laborious. It may or may not be worth it depending on how your standard performs on the coldest days.
Wow. Wonderful video
Glad it helped you in some way!
So I live in New Jersey, I would def go with the hyper heat, I want to use it as my primary source of heat and eliminate all the plumbing from the hydronics system, am I crazy? It is a gut job and I like the features of the mistsubishi system
Definitely not crazy. Many people do it. Some people would keep the hydronic system as a backup in case something breaks down with the mini split. Mini splits are amazing but they aren't 100% perfect for endless years. Some brands are more reliable than others. However, if you are on a budget and had to choose one over the other, the mini splits are definitely a great choice.
I live in Long Island I’m wondering if I should get Mitsubishi standard are Mitsubishi hyper heat
Our winters haven’t been that bad in the last few years need a little advice
Hi there! If this is your primary heating source in your house it is recommended to go with hyper heat. If you go with a standard unit you will be losing efficiency and capacity the lower the temperature outside. Hyper heat guarantees heat down to -13F with 100% capacity at 5F.
Thank you very much
Thanks for the explanation what about cooling mode on hyper heat??
Great question. Cooling outputs are the same for both standard and hyper heat. The real difference is heating output in various temperatures.
I have hundreds of happy customers with the Mitsubishi Hyper Heat systems. They work great at 15 degrees Fahrenheit. You just have to size the system properly for cold climates.
Awesome to hear. Thanks for the feedback!
How do repair costs compare?
Repair costs wil be dependent on the contractor that you use to do the repair. The parts are similar in price and are both covered under a max 12 year warranty, minimum 7 year compressor 5 year parts warranty.
Good video; thank you. I’m in SoCal and I think mini splits are beyond awesome when new. 8 - 10 years down the road our experience has been they are brutal (costs) to have the fan wheel/condenser cleaned, and replacing a switching valve is cost prohibitive (and the repair tech hands you off to a sales guy super fast). I found an 18k btu online for $2k delivered, and my local HVAC wants $12k. 😮 We bought a portable heater for now.
Thanks for the input. There are DIY kits you can buy if you want to save money and do it yourself (gotductless.com/products/speedclean-mini-split-cleaning-bib-kit-360). If you need a pro to do it, try to get them to do it more frequently as they will charge much higher if the system hasn't been cleaned in years.
Thanks!
Happy to help!
2db is 66% louder. Not much louder 😅.
I’d have liked it if you SHOWED ME the hyper heat technology, rather than just standing there talking.
I'm not sure how we can show you....the difference is in the numbers. The fan spins identically.
awesome video
Thanks for watching!