I think the chicken part was funny! Sense of humor matches mine 😂 For the piston head o ring section, according to the Dan and Rachel Gingell video, you’re supposed to soak the leather ring in water (couple hours?) and then it’ll stretch over the piston. I think the order was leather ring then rubber ring, with the leather closest to the pocket end of the piston. I’m trying to diagnose my Ford 2000 4cyl hydraulics not working and your video encouraged me seeing that I’m not the only young (pronounced clueless) person trying to fix an old tractor! My neighbor has a good point though, these things HAD to be simple enough for a farmer to be able to fix it in the middle of a field with minimal tools and materials
Any time I know I'm gonna be wrenching on my dad's AC D17, the day before I'm set to do it I PB Blaster every screw and bolt within 20 feet of the part I know I'll be focusing on. And I won't go anywhere near the arena of battle without my deep socket set, breaker bar, Milwaukee M18 high-torque impact wrench, and an empty swear jar.
I agree, they were a fantastic starting point for this stage of the project! I've seen yesterday's tractors but I think I've only seen the forum. (Maybe I'm thinking of something else.) I'll have to check it out, thanks!
I would like to suggest using the closed end of your wrench when you are applying a lot of pressure, like when you were draining the gear box oil, or removing the seat mount bolts. First, you reduce the chance of it slipping and rounding off the head of the bolt down to almost zero. Second, You could have used a "cheater bar" method which is usually using another closed end wrench where you position the closed end of the second wrench over the open end of the wrench you're using to remove the bolt with, giving you twice the leverage on the bolt without using heat , etc. If someone can explain this in a better way, please do. This was my best effort.
Yes most of the time when you're hydraulics are jerky like that it is air in the system that has not managed to escape I don't see anything wrong with the way you done that I think you did a dang good job
Thanks for the advice and thank you for the compliment. I didn't expect the job to last more than a couple of days but I ended up getting intimate with the workings of the system! haha
Rigtig godt stykke arbejde,dejligt når der er nogen der kan lave de gamle traktorer, fornøjelse at følge med i , send nogle flere film om restaurering af gamle traktorer❤❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊
There's no way that there isn't air in the lines after that, they should (for the most part) work themselves out just with use of the hydraulics. I can only hope/assume that there's a hydraulic oil filter somewhere in the system, I'd recommend changing that out, it doesn't sound major, but I saw a massive improvement in my tractor's hydraulics response when I changed out the old filter. if the system continues to fight you, you might want to look into taking that lift cylinder assembly to a hydraulics shop. Also, I have filmed while working on a tractor, and I can agree that it's a major pain
That's good to know, I'll have to keep an eye on it. Maybe I'll just see if I can let them work out and if that doesn't work I'll then try the plug. Should be a good piece of data for others as well. Thanks for the insight!
You are the first person I have seen take the hydraulics levers apart to isolate the arm with the worn pin. Was it hard to do that and was it hard to put back together? I don't like to beat on things and would prefer to remove the arm like you did and then press the pin out in my 20 ton press. It should be very easy with the press and the right size pin to press it out with. I just don't know how hard it is the R&R the arm with pin as you are the only one to do that. Thoughts or suggestions?? Thank you. You made if fun to watch!
It wasn't too difficult, I think the hardest part was not having a proper work surface to do everything on. Of course take lots of pictures (in my case videos) and having the manual for your tractor is one of the best things. Getting in there to remove the castle nut was a bit finnicky, but do-able. Best of luck and thank you!
Thanks! I hope to first get the main issues sorted with it, hydraulics, brakes, gauges, etc. Then clean/paint it to just get it to as good a point as I can get it. We've got some land behind the house so I'm hoping to use it for a little bit of grading and cleaning once we get it mulched. Hoping to get a good little plot of flowers and veggies, etc. put together for my wife since she loves doing that stuff. I may ride it hard every now and again but I have no intentions of putting it up wet. I definitely want my future kids to get use of it which is why I want to get it looking and working great again best I can. Hope you enjoyed it!
I purchased the o-rings and gaskets from Steiner Tractors. But I had to find the unloading valve Oring on EBay. The links are at the bottom of the description.
I'm pretty tall, so not quite over it just yet. Haha Things are slow going but nothing too crazy other than just finding the time. It's all going to be worth it in the end! Thanks for watching
Thank you for the feedback, while I try to keep it fun and leighthearted, I know my humor isn't always everyone's cup of tea. (Just ask my wife.) If you're needing hydraulics help with a 601 style Ford tractor, I'd ask that you give the rest of the video a chance, it should offer some more insight into the system.
Happy New Year. Seeing as you asked, I think you should close in your lean to sides and back. The more 'weather' you keep out of your work area, the better.
Happy new year to you as well! I appreciate it, I'm trying to think of a good way to do that while also making sure that it is visually pleasing to my wife haha
I think the chicken part was funny! Sense of humor matches mine 😂
For the piston head o ring section, according to the Dan and Rachel Gingell video, you’re supposed to soak the leather ring in water (couple hours?) and then it’ll stretch over the piston. I think the order was leather ring then rubber ring, with the leather closest to the pocket end of the piston.
I’m trying to diagnose my Ford 2000 4cyl hydraulics not working and your video encouraged me seeing that I’m not the only young (pronounced clueless) person trying to fix an old tractor! My neighbor has a good point though, these things HAD to be simple enough for a farmer to be able to fix it in the middle of a field with minimal tools and materials
The shoulder harness for carrying the top assembly was mighty smart of you.
My back wouldn't agree with that assessment 😂
Lol,dude you have the patience of Job...😄
I was so happy when the hydraulic worked for you!! Enjoying this series!💯👍
Any time I know I'm gonna be wrenching on my dad's AC D17, the day before I'm set to do it I PB Blaster every screw and bolt within 20 feet of the part I know I'll be focusing on. And I won't go anywhere near the arena of battle without my deep socket set, breaker bar, Milwaukee M18 high-torque impact wrench, and an empty swear jar.
Hahaha I'll have to remember that next time. And I wonder if harbor freight sells sweat jars 🤔
Dan and Rachel Gingell are a wealth of information on old ford tractors! Use the leather one. Also check "Yesterdays Tractor" for parts
I agree, they were a fantastic starting point for this stage of the project!
I've seen yesterday's tractors but I think I've only seen the forum. (Maybe I'm thinking of something else.) I'll have to check it out, thanks!
I would like to suggest using the closed end of your wrench when you are applying a lot of pressure, like when you were draining the gear box oil, or removing the seat mount bolts. First, you reduce the chance of it slipping and rounding off the head of the bolt down to almost zero. Second, You could have used a "cheater bar" method which is usually using another closed end wrench where you position the closed end of the second wrench over the open end of the wrench you're using to remove the bolt with, giving you twice the leverage on the bolt without using heat , etc. If someone can explain this in a better way, please do. This was my best effort.
Thanks for telling me about how the glass drill bit worked! Did not take the arm off when drilling worked fine thanks.
That's great! Glad you were able to get it!
Yes most of the time when you're hydraulics are jerky like that it is air in the system that has not managed to escape I don't see anything wrong with the way you done that I think you did a dang good job
Thanks for the advice and thank you for the compliment. I didn't expect the job to last more than a couple of days but I ended up getting intimate with the workings of the system! haha
I had same problems with pivot pin, draft control arm, etc. I have an 801 and a 601. Both were not easy at all.
Rigtig godt stykke arbejde,dejligt når der er nogen der kan lave de gamle traktorer, fornøjelse at følge med i , send nogle flere film om restaurering af gamle traktorer❤❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊
There's no way that there isn't air in the lines after that, they should (for the most part) work themselves out just with use of the hydraulics. I can only hope/assume that there's a hydraulic oil filter somewhere in the system, I'd recommend changing that out, it doesn't sound major, but I saw a massive improvement in my tractor's hydraulics response when I changed out the old filter. if the system continues to fight you, you might want to look into taking that lift cylinder assembly to a hydraulics shop.
Also, I have filmed while working on a tractor, and I can agree that it's a major pain
That's good to know, I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Maybe I'll just see if I can let them work out and if that doesn't work I'll then try the plug. Should be a good piece of data for others as well.
Thanks for the insight!
You are the first person I have seen take the hydraulics levers apart to isolate the arm with the worn pin. Was it hard to do that and was it hard to put back together? I don't like to beat on things and would prefer to remove the arm like you did and then press the pin out in my 20 ton press. It should be very easy with the press and the right size pin to press it out with. I just don't know how hard it is the R&R the arm with pin as you are the only one to do that. Thoughts or suggestions?? Thank you. You made if fun to watch!
It wasn't too difficult, I think the hardest part was not having a proper work surface to do everything on. Of course take lots of pictures (in my case videos) and having the manual for your tractor is one of the best things. Getting in there to remove the castle nut was a bit finnicky, but do-able. Best of luck and thank you!
Lololo old hen is checking it out Lololo
Funny one, it’s not hard to do if you got parts handy
Use oring on filler cap
Very good. Thanks
Good job. What are your plans for this tractor?
Thanks!
I hope to first get the main issues sorted with it, hydraulics, brakes, gauges, etc. Then clean/paint it to just get it to as good a point as I can get it.
We've got some land behind the house so I'm hoping to use it for a little bit of grading and cleaning once we get it mulched. Hoping to get a good little plot of flowers and veggies, etc. put together for my wife since she loves doing that stuff.
I may ride it hard every now and again but I have no intentions of putting it up wet. I definitely want my future kids to get use of it which is why I want to get it looking and working great again best I can.
Hope you enjoyed it!
Next time just use some gas to clean the hydraulic sump
Did you purchase a complete hydraulics rebuild kit and if so from who?
I purchased the o-rings and gaskets from Steiner Tractors. But I had to find the unloading valve Oring on EBay. The links are at the bottom of the description.
@@LandonsLaboratory Thank you. i really enjoy your video work and all the fun humor as well!
Go to harbor freight and buy you a box of o-ring s the red box save you hundreds of dollars
I have that set, the o rings are not the same girth, they are smaller 1/8th in verses 3/32nds .
stiener tractor is a good place to buy parts
I agree, I was amazed at the wide variety of parts that are still available for these old tractor's!
I agree with that and that girls place is great also
Kerosene or diesel fuel for cleaning. ...
Link dos oring por favor?
It's in the description along with some other part links. 👍
This is proof your in over your head
I'm pretty tall, so not quite over it just yet. Haha
Things are slow going but nothing too crazy other than just finding the time. It's all going to be worth it in the end!
Thanks for watching
Had to stop watching the video within the first 20 seconds. Can’t take a guy seriously that’s talking to a chicken.
Thank you for the feedback, while I try to keep it fun and leighthearted, I know my humor isn't always everyone's cup of tea. (Just ask my wife.)
If you're needing hydraulics help with a 601 style Ford tractor, I'd ask that you give the rest of the video a chance, it should offer some more insight into the system.
Happy New Year.
Seeing as you asked, I think you should close in your lean to sides and back. The more 'weather' you keep out of your work area, the better.
Happy new year to you as well!
I appreciate it, I'm trying to think of a good way to do that while also making sure that it is visually pleasing to my wife haha
HAY A NEW LOW FOR TH-cam A PERSON TALKING TO A CHICKEN