Great video, wish I found it before I traced half of the wiring myself 2 weeks ago because of a blown fuse. You were testing alternator wires' output to the ground and getting 8.5VAC on each leg. Bet you a quarter they're opposite in phase, centered around ground and will give you leg-to-leg 17VAC.
Thanks a million for the great video! I have a question, I have blown two fuses then it shuts everything down, I believe it has something to do with the light on the bucket, that runs to the switch that you pointed out on your video, my question where could the short possible be? In the light? In the switch? What can I do to solve this problem? Thanks
Sorry I just saw this. If you feel that the short is in the light circuit you could check the wires on that circuit for continuity to ground while wiggling them. If the fuse is blowing there is definitely a direct short to ground or a load heavier than the fuse can handle. What model do you have and where is the fuse located?
I recently experienced an ignition switch failure.....not waterproof.... i attempted to wire in a generic switch but with no luck. I found a stock replacement online but failed to take a picture of the harness plug wire orientation. Could you possibly show a picture of how the wires insert in the harness plug? Mine has 2 yellows together, 2 yellows w/ white stripe together, a white, a green w/stripe, and a black. Just a picture as its plugged in would work....Thanks in advance and thanks for the helpful videos...
How does the circuitry work to stop the engine? What's being grounded to stop spark (to kill the engine... if that's indeed what kills the engine)?? Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply. Good question. I would have to look at the diagram to see how it actually works. But I do know there is a single wire going from your keyswitch to the ignition coil that tells it that it can or cannot fire. The ignition coil on these engines is mounted right beside the flywheel so its picks up the pulse directly off of the flywheel to fire. The coils are bolted directly to the to engine so they are grounded. So in my eyes the single wire would either open or close a switch within the coil by sending voltage or somehow using a ground. Great question I should look into that. Very rare that I do not know the answer.
So essentially to test if that was working you could put your meter on continuity beep setting and check between ground and that black wire to coil. In the on position it should not beep. In the off position it should have connection to ground and beep.
We have a brand new Chinese skid steer with likely the same electrical design as your excavator. The battery is fully charged. When we turn the key, the power drops; the lights go out, and it just will not crank, although it is trying to. Do you recommend any steps to check for troubleshooting?
Could be a lot of things but according to your description it sounds an awful lot like a bad battery or ground to chassis. Batteries can have a full charge and drop to 0 volts as soon as a load is put on. I would recommend load testing the battery to rule that out then with a volt meter check your ground including the main cut off switch as that is on the negative side if the battery a bad internal connection will cause power loss to everything. Then with a volt meter on dc voltage setting check voltage going to starter solenoid when key is turned to start position.
@86Service - I’m diagnosing a starting issue with my mini after a few of the wires burned in two from being to close/touching the engine. The wires come from the starter solenoid. I spliced them back together. Now the machine will turn over and over but won’t fire up. Any idea what is wrong? I found two fuses and both of those are intact. Thanks!
If the information you are giving me is accurate… the wires going to the solenoid will not effect engine firing. They simply power the starter motor. You have a spark, fuel, or compression problem. Likely not compression. So focus on spark and fuel. Spark is easy to test simply remove the spark plug leave it plugged in to cap. Ground the plug to the engine casting turn engine over with key or pull rope and watch the plug for a nice consistent spark. (Be careful nothing flammable is on engine and cylinder is not flooded with fuel or it may ignite). If you have good spark move on to fuel. If you do not have spark check the black wire coming from under engine shroud it comes from ignition coil to the key switch. That is your engine kill switch if it is not hooked up or there is a bad connection in keyswitch to that wire engine will KILL and not spark.
I have confirmed it’s not a fuel or compression and definitely a spark issues. I pulled the plug last week and didn’t get a spark. The kill switch is effective as in when I flip it, I get no power to the starter. What all controls the spark? Relay?
@@dustinchambers496 Spark is going to come from your flywheel to the ignition coil mounted by the flywheel then sent to the plug. The only external thing that would effect the spark would the killswitch and wire that goes to the ignition coil from kill switch to ground the coil. If that wire and switch are confirmed correct then the only other things it could be would be a tripped low oil sensor, bad ignition coil/cap/plug, or a flywheel issue.
Very helpful video. Do you know the maximum wattage these stators produce? I thought it was 10 amp which would be 120 watts from my very poor (not confident) estimates but if you're running 2 - 80 watt fans with no issue it must be higher then that. Thanks.
I do not off of the top of my head. Pretty sure the stator on this engine is 20 amp 10 per leg but do not quote me on that I would have to look at the specs.
Do you know if there is a fuse, we went to start ours and we have nothing, no power, also all the switches for the fan, light and windshield wiper don't work
There is a fuse yes can be found under the floor pan on the front side of the engine. However I would check the main power cut off knob switch. It will be hooked to the ground side of your battery. If it fails to make a connection when in the on position your machine will receive no battery power.
I have blown that fuse because the wires from the cabin on my FF13 came off in transport and when I reconnected them I shorted out positive to ground. Turns out there is only one wire going to the cabin (powers fan, wiper and lights) and that's positive. Negative returns through the bolts that attach the cabin to the frame.
My chinese mini ex runs but will suddenly stop running. It will start back up after several attempts and run a bit then suddenly stop running. I thought it ran out of gas but the tank is full. Where do you recommend I start diagnosing?
I would first pull the spark plug out and see if it is white or black on the burning end. That will give you a good indicator if it is getting too little or too much fuel. If too little I would check your fuel flow to carburetor, check the float operation, check the jets and fuel passages, check to make sure choke turn engages fully and disengages fully. Its possible that your choke is partially staying on and cutting too much air after engine has warmed up making it run rich and foul plug.
I have a brand new mini excavator and the ignition switch locked up to where I could not turn the key so they sent me a brand new ignition switch which I put in but now it turns over but it will not start so they sent me another ignition switch which was just a nap a universal switch with a hand Ron terrible wiring diagram. It’s still turns over but there is absolutely no spark else works. I wondered if you had any insight on this.
I am sorry I have been away for a while. But I would check the black wire that goes to your ignition coil that is what shuts the engine off by killing spark.
Sorry I am just seeing this. No spark can be many things. The ignition coils mount by the flywheels on these and they pick up their own signal from the flywheel. However there is a killswitch function wire from the ignition switch. Need to check that wire out first.
Mine done this and it fouled the plug. Change the plug and it should fire back up. The problem is the choke is not staying all the way open making it run rich to foul the plug. I installed a spring onto my choke that keeps it open at all time so this does not happen again. Hope this helps ya.
@@86ServiceTube A wiring diagram does exist, but it sucks if you want to know what wire goes to what pin / connection. Which is what brought me to your video: Do you have a named pinout for the Ignition Key Switch? I had to take mine apart in order to turn off the excavator because the switch would not key turn off. Taking the key switch apart, the OEM switch is really poor quality plastic, and it looks like either the ball bearings wear away the plastic (sticking the key), or the key spring bends the plastic outward, thus sticking the key in place. I want to replace it with an new 5 pin ignition switch of better quality, but I am not sure of what wire goes to which pin, since the OEM unit doesn't have designations on itself, and a different 'brand' ignition switch may be pinned differently. I'm going to look through your videos to see if you have already provided a pinout for the key switch, but if you don't have one, hope it gets warm enough to make one. Thanks. By the way, you can get the manual on their website, 'agrotkindustrial'. It's on the product page for the QH12. The diagrams are on "Section V. Electrical system diagram".
No. They run on hydraulic motors so as long as your drive levers are centered and valves aren't leaking the motors are locked up. My old Bobcat runs on friction clutches and freewheels on any inline.
Sorry I did not go over that! Thanks for calling me out. The keyswitch controls the engine kill. I will make a video on that when the weather gets above 0 degrees 😂
My ignition switch failed, so I got a Kubota switch. I IDed three of the terminals with an ohmmeter and got it to crank, start, and run. But, the engine does not stop when switched to the off position. I ended up pulling the spark plug lead. How it it designed to stop running?
![Chinese Mini Excavator - Starting Problems [2 Years on]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MoZsKy7MTl8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Chinese Mini Excavator - Starting Problems [2 Years on]](/img/tr.png)
Cant thank you enough for making this video! Its so hard to find info on these mini ex's!
No problem. Thanks for watching. Will do some more stuff when time allows.
Great video, wish I found it before I traced half of the wiring myself 2 weeks ago because of a blown fuse. You were testing alternator wires' output to the ground and getting 8.5VAC on each leg. Bet you a quarter they're opposite in phase, centered around ground and will give you leg-to-leg 17VAC.
Lol I try to get it out there but most of the forums block links so just have to let people find it themselves!
Great video
thanks for making this. Very helpful.
Would like to see video for fan install.
I also would like info on sourcing the fans. Thanks
Another awesome video!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
very helpful, and easy to understand
Did the best I could with the time I had. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the video.!!!!
No problem!
Thanks a million for the great video! I have a question, I have blown two fuses then it shuts everything down, I believe it has something to do with the light on the bucket, that runs to the switch that you pointed out on your video, my question where could the short possible be? In the light? In the switch? What can I do to solve this problem? Thanks
Any luck finding the issue?
Sorry I just saw this. If you feel that the short is in the light circuit you could check the wires on that circuit for continuity to ground while wiggling them. If the fuse is blowing there is definitely a direct short to ground or a load heavier than the fuse can handle. What model do you have and where is the fuse located?
I recently experienced an ignition switch failure.....not waterproof.... i attempted to wire in a generic switch but with no luck. I found a stock replacement online but failed to take a picture of the harness plug wire orientation. Could you possibly show a picture of how the wires insert in the harness plug? Mine has 2 yellows together, 2 yellows w/ white stripe together, a white, a green w/stripe, and a black. Just a picture as its plugged in would work....Thanks in advance and thanks for the helpful videos...
Sorry I just saw this did you get it figured out?
How does the circuitry work to stop the engine? What's being grounded to stop spark (to kill the engine... if that's indeed what kills the engine)?? Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply. Good question. I would have to look at the diagram to see how it actually works. But I do know there is a single wire going from your keyswitch to the ignition coil that tells it that it can or cannot fire. The ignition coil on these engines is mounted right beside the flywheel so its picks up the pulse directly off of the flywheel to fire. The coils are bolted directly to the to engine so they are grounded. So in my eyes the single wire would either open or close a switch within the coil by sending voltage or somehow using a ground. Great question I should look into that. Very rare that I do not know the answer.
I found your answer here sir. m.th-cam.com/video/Fv6N2WVtkEw/w-d-xo.html&pp=2AGlAZACAQ%3D%3D
So essentially to test if that was working you could put your meter on continuity beep setting and check between ground and that black wire to coil. In the on position it should not beep. In the off position it should have connection to ground and beep.
We have a brand new Chinese skid steer with likely the same electrical design as your excavator. The battery is fully charged. When we turn the key, the power drops; the lights go out, and it just will not crank, although it is trying to. Do you recommend any steps to check for troubleshooting?
Could be a lot of things but according to your description it sounds an awful lot like a bad battery or ground to chassis. Batteries can have a full charge and drop to 0 volts as soon as a load is put on. I would recommend load testing the battery to rule that out then with a volt meter check your ground including the main cut off switch as that is on the negative side if the battery a bad internal connection will cause power loss to everything. Then with a volt meter on dc voltage setting check voltage going to starter solenoid when key is turned to start position.
@@86ServiceTube It turned out to be a bad battery. Thanks for the response.
@xoneeleven showed all the signs! Glad you got it figured out!
@86Service - I’m diagnosing a starting issue with my mini after a few of the wires burned in two from being to close/touching the engine. The wires come from the starter solenoid. I spliced them back together. Now the machine will turn over and over but won’t fire up. Any idea what is wrong? I found two fuses and both of those are intact. Thanks!
If the information you are giving me is accurate… the wires going to the solenoid will not effect engine firing. They simply power the starter motor. You have a spark, fuel, or compression problem. Likely not compression. So focus on spark and fuel. Spark is easy to test simply remove the spark plug leave it plugged in to cap. Ground the plug to the engine casting turn engine over with key or pull rope and watch the plug for a nice consistent spark. (Be careful nothing flammable is on engine and cylinder is not flooded with fuel or it may ignite). If you have good spark move on to fuel. If you do not have spark check the black wire coming from under engine shroud it comes from ignition coil to the key switch. That is your engine kill switch if it is not hooked up or there is a bad connection in keyswitch to that wire engine will KILL and not spark.
I have confirmed it’s not a fuel or compression and definitely a spark issues. I pulled the plug last week and didn’t get a spark.
The kill switch is effective as in when I flip it, I get no power to the starter.
What all controls the spark? Relay?
@@dustinchambers496 Spark is going to come from your flywheel to the ignition coil mounted by the flywheel then sent to the plug. The only external thing that would effect the spark would the killswitch and wire that goes to the ignition coil from kill switch to ground the coil. If that wire and switch are confirmed correct then the only other things it could be would be a tripped low oil sensor, bad ignition coil/cap/plug, or a flywheel issue.
Very helpful video. Do you know the maximum wattage these stators produce? I thought it was 10 amp which would be 120 watts from my very poor (not confident) estimates but if you're running 2 - 80 watt fans with no issue it must be higher then that. Thanks.
I do not off of the top of my head. Pretty sure the stator on this engine is 20 amp 10 per leg but do not quote me on that I would have to look at the specs.
What size of battery is in it? CCA?
Honestly have not looked at it.
Do you know if there is a fuse, we went to start ours and we have nothing, no power, also all the switches for the fan, light and windshield wiper don't work
There is a fuse yes can be found under the floor pan on the front side of the engine. However I would check the main power cut off knob switch. It will be hooked to the ground side of your battery. If it fails to make a connection when in the on position your machine will receive no battery power.
I have blown that fuse because the wires from the cabin on my FF13 came off in transport and when I reconnected them I shorted out positive to ground. Turns out there is only one wire going to the cabin (powers fan, wiper and lights) and that's positive. Negative returns through the bolts that attach the cabin to the frame.
My chinese mini ex runs but will suddenly stop running. It will start back up after several attempts and run a bit then suddenly stop running. I thought it ran out of gas but the tank is full. Where do you recommend I start diagnosing?
I would first pull the spark plug out and see if it is white or black on the burning end. That will give you a good indicator if it is getting too little or too much fuel. If too little I would check your fuel flow to carburetor, check the float operation, check the jets and fuel passages, check to make sure choke turn engages fully and disengages fully. Its possible that your choke is partially staying on and cutting too much air after engine has warmed up making it run rich and foul plug.
They also have a low oil shut off, it's possible that it might be slightly low on oil and cutting off spark.
I have a brand new mini excavator and the ignition switch locked up to where I could not turn the key so they sent me a brand new ignition switch which I put in but now it turns over but it will not start so they sent me another ignition switch which was just a nap a universal switch with a hand Ron terrible wiring diagram. It’s still turns over but there is absolutely no spark else works. I wondered if you had any insight on this.
I have the exact same issue, replaced switch but it’s like engine has no spark. If you figure out a remedy it be great to know.
I am sorry I have been away for a while. But I would check the black wire that goes to your ignition coil that is what shuts the engine off by killing spark.
No spark on my Chinese excavator. It was running fine, has about 4 hours on it, and it stalled and I’m getting no spark. Please help me diagnose it
Sorry I am just seeing this. No spark can be many things. The ignition coils mount by the flywheels on these and they pick up their own signal from the flywheel. However there is a killswitch function wire from the ignition switch. Need to check that wire out first.
Mine done this and it fouled the plug. Change the plug and it should fire back up. The problem is the choke is not staying all the way open making it run rich to foul the plug. I installed a spring onto my choke that keeps it open at all time so this does not happen again. Hope this helps ya.
How about a picture of the wiring diagram for the ignition system
I am not sure that one exists.
@@86ServiceTube A wiring diagram does exist, but it sucks if you want to know what wire goes to what pin / connection. Which is what brought me to your video: Do you have a named pinout for the Ignition Key Switch? I had to take mine apart in order to turn off the excavator because the switch would not key turn off. Taking the key switch apart, the OEM switch is really poor quality plastic, and it looks like either the ball bearings wear away the plastic (sticking the key), or the key spring bends the plastic outward, thus sticking the key in place.
I want to replace it with an new 5 pin ignition switch of better quality, but I am not sure of what wire goes to which pin, since the OEM unit doesn't have designations on itself, and a different 'brand' ignition switch may be pinned differently. I'm going to look through your videos to see if you have already provided a pinout for the key switch, but if you don't have one, hope it gets warm enough to make one. Thanks.
By the way, you can get the manual on their website, 'agrotkindustrial'. It's on the product page for the QH12. The diagrams are on "Section V. Electrical system diagram".
Do these mini’s go into free wheel down hill ?
I have not experienced it. But I have heard of it. I haven’t had it on any major hills yet.
No. They run on hydraulic motors so as long as your drive levers are centered and valves aren't leaking the motors are locked up. My old Bobcat runs on friction clutches and freewheels on any inline.
Hi I’m trying to replace my starter but I can’t figure out how to kill the engine
I am not sure that I understand what you mean.
Do you know how to change out the starter
Yep pretty simple.
So what turns the engine off electrically? The key switch or the big electrical disconnect? And why. Thanks for your time Chad.
Sorry I did not go over that! Thanks for calling me out. The keyswitch controls the engine kill. I will make a video on that when the weather gets above 0 degrees 😂
I would also like more detail on the key switch. Mine has issues and I’d like to replace it but can’t figure out which wire is which.
My ignition switch failed, so I got a Kubota switch. I IDed three of the terminals with an ohmmeter and got it to crank, start, and run. But, the engine does not stop when switched to the off position. I ended up pulling the spark plug lead. How it it designed to stop running?
A very expensive electrical meter that doesn't work is worth nothing lol I have one also just hate to throw it away because of how much I paid for it
I feel your pain 😂