Thanks mate, i had my bash plates off to clean the underside of the car and I hit a kangaroo. Vacuum lines busted off so needed to replace the entire actuator unit. Really helpful!
hi i have a mitsubishi pinin i replaced the actuator it was cracked but in 4H the fronts engage only the rear tires spin.. and when i picked it up one rear and one front i turned on 4H and the front works but weakly, still doesn't engage well the front also stops helping when napan
Very informative. Maybe next time engage transmission and try 2h and 4x4 if engaging and disengaging to be more sure. I got same problem. I suddenly notice heavyness in steering and hihg fuel consumption. So i jack up front wheels shifter on 2H but the front wheel is still on 4x4.
So I figured it out after a while, the problem was my gearbox, I had the wrong gearbox for the pajero. The 4x4 ecu didn’t have enough inputs on the old gearbox
@@barnbuilds25hello friend, I drive a mitaubishi pajero sport 3.0 petrol I have a problem, I have 2H 4H 4L on the gear lever when I put it in 4H I can't turn the steering wheel, is my actuator broken? I saw on you tube that you were changing that part.
@@stefancolic503 Hey man, Thanks for positive feedback 💪🏻 I need a bit more of a descriptive explanation. Do you have zero steering ? A bit of steering or what ?
Hey man, to be honest. I haven’t worked on any gen 2 autos before so I wouldn’t be able to tell you, however best bet would be to get the workshop manual then it should show you in there 💪
So that may be an factor, but what has probably happened is that your vacuum solenoids are probably a bit tired and not working or/and your vacuum lines are brittle and leaking 💪
When the actuator fails, were you saying it defaults to 4H (meaning Full-Time 4WD), or were you saying it defaults to 4HLc (Locked center-diff)? If you were saying 4H, I'm not sure what you mean by bad for your gears and splines. I can understand saying that it will wear out your CVs because they are engaged but it's meant for tarmac. The center diff is unlocked meaning the driveshafts can spin at different speeds; there is a center viscous coupling as well to stop spin outs. Think 80 series LC; they had essentially the same setup; center diff in their transfer-case with a viscous coupling by I think MY 92' (Full-Time 4WD). If you were referring to 4HLc then well of course it would be bad for tarmac as the front tires are going to constantly be skipping and losing traction around corners or something in your driveline will snap.
So when the actuator fails it automatically goes into 4H, when I mean it is bad. All I’m meaning is it’s adding strain due to it being on tarmac. As you said it’s not necessarily bad for them.
@@barnbuilds25 it’s exactly the same as driving an 80 series land cruiser at that point. 4H is meant for tarmac so it’s fine but I guess you’re saying over thousands of kilometers it wears the drivetrain more. That I can agree with. The viscous coupling dilatant fluid can degrade and the transfercase uses a chain drive for the front driveshaft which also can wear; as can the front driveshaft an CV axles. But again this is long term over many many miles.
Thanks mate, i had my bash plates off to clean the underside of the car and I hit a kangaroo. Vacuum lines busted off so needed to replace the entire actuator unit. Really helpful!
Glad to hear it helped you out ! Thats always my biggest thing with these videos, as long as I can help someone out im happy !!
hi i have a mitsubishi pinin i replaced the actuator it was cracked but in 4H the fronts engage only the rear tires spin.. and when i picked it up one rear and one front i turned on 4H and the front works but weakly, still doesn't engage well the front also stops helping when napan
How many kms does your paj have ? You can double check it when it’s all up on 4 jacks then go into 4H then 4L then check all of the wheels etc
Thanks Boss that is exactly i want ❤
Thanks for the awesome video.
My Gen 2 makes a clicking sound when 4x4 is engaged. Sounds like inner cv's or could it the actuator not fully engaging.
Thanks man ! It could be the actuator or it could be your CVs .. which i reckon the chances are of it being your cvs is definitely higher !
Thanks for the reply.
keep up the awesome videos.
Very informative. Maybe next time engage transmission and try 2h and 4x4 if engaging and disengaging to be more sure. I got same problem. I suddenly notice heavyness in steering and hihg fuel consumption. So i jack up front wheels shifter on 2H but the front wheel is still on 4x4.
So I figured it out after a while, the problem was my gearbox, I had the wrong gearbox for the pajero. The 4x4 ecu didn’t have enough inputs on the old gearbox
@@barnbuilds25hello friend, I drive a mitaubishi pajero sport 3.0 petrol
I have a problem, I have 2H 4H 4L on the gear lever
when I put it in 4H I can't turn the steering wheel,
is my actuator broken?
I saw on you tube that you were changing that part.
@@stefancolic503 Hey man,
Thanks for positive feedback 💪🏻
I need a bit more of a descriptive explanation. Do you have zero steering ? A bit of steering or what ?
Thanks for this vids
It’s a pleasure man 💪🏼
Just want to ask where i can find the relay of my over drive gen 2 pajero not working.
Hey man, to be honest. I haven’t worked on any gen 2 autos before so I wouldn’t be able to tell you, however best bet would be to get the workshop manual then it should show you in there 💪
is the actuator triggering the engage lights in dashboard or the shift motor on the transfer case? My 4H light and 4L light is not coming on at all
So that may be an factor, but what has probably happened is that your vacuum solenoids are probably a bit tired and not working or/and your vacuum lines are brittle and leaking 💪
Thanks, I will get it checked
Friend how many vacum pressure must be? Little or high for working
Hey man, I’m actually not sure on the specific pressure to be honest. It is in the workshop
Manual, I know that for a fact 💪
Hi but how to replace the seal other side
When the actuator fails, were you saying it defaults to 4H (meaning Full-Time 4WD), or were you saying it defaults to 4HLc (Locked center-diff)? If you were saying 4H, I'm not sure what you mean by bad for your gears and splines. I can understand saying that it will wear out your CVs because they are engaged but it's meant for tarmac.
The center diff is unlocked meaning the driveshafts can spin at different speeds; there is a center viscous coupling as well to stop spin outs. Think 80 series LC; they had essentially the same setup; center diff in their transfer-case with a viscous coupling by I think MY 92' (Full-Time 4WD).
If you were referring to 4HLc then well of course it would be bad for tarmac as the front tires are going to constantly be skipping and losing traction around corners or something in your driveline will snap.
So when the actuator fails it automatically goes into 4H, when I mean it is bad. All I’m meaning is it’s adding strain due to it being on tarmac. As you said it’s not necessarily bad for them.
@@barnbuilds25 it’s exactly the same as driving an 80 series land cruiser at that point. 4H is meant for tarmac so it’s fine but I guess you’re saying over thousands of kilometers it wears the drivetrain more. That I can agree with. The viscous coupling dilatant fluid can degrade and the transfercase uses a chain drive for the front driveshaft which also can wear; as can the front driveshaft an CV axles. But again this is long term over many many miles.
@@on1ytheb3st that’s exactly what I mean. No immediate effects on the drive train only long term effects that’s it 💪