Just the information I needed. Electrician went in and bore holes within two inches of the bottom of the joist. Thank you for the calculations as well. Super informative! Please add a link to the product in the description. Also, you guys should provide standard dimensions of the product for immediate purchase. For example, for 2x10 joists, 10-12 ft long, get *this strap. For 2x8, get *this strap, etc.
very useful knowledge!! recently renovating my kitchen, plan to run a 3" drain pipe through 5 solid wood joists of 8", the holes that run the drain pipe are over 3" Dia, so I want to use the metal joist reinforcement plate to support the joists. it is possible? Thanks
Some codes won't allow the close edge distance for the 1/4" SDS screws. In similar repairs, I had to use a steel angle and screw into the face of the joist. You can notch the vertical leg of the angle at a pipe location. You should probably take 5/6 of the joist height for your effective bending moment arm. The centroid of the compression would be about 1/6 of the joist height from the top. Our code also requires a minimum partition allowance of 10psf. 10psf DL seems on the light side.
Correct, the screw spacing is less than code. But it was the only option because so many screws are needed. To get around that I tested 2x12s spanned max span with max load and it held. I used sand bags.
Last owner of my house cut out over 70% of each joist halfway across a room to run a toilet drain into the garage. I don't know how the ceiling hasn't fallen yet.
can i hav ea shower drain on top of the joist? i am working with a 32 by 48 shower base where the hole is in the middle but it is also going to be on top of the floor joist is there a solution ?
I would like to reach back to 1995 and Strangle the HVAC mech that hacked the lower cord of a TJI !! Can you speak to the latest requirements of Engineered Lumber such as the TJI - BCI - LVL's Parallams etc... MOST of today's construction is NOT Dimensional Lumber and there are apparently a lot of people that need to lay down "their" tools and pick up a crack pipe !! C'mon People - Do NOT work outside of your level of knowledge and scope!! Cut your Big Box store CC in half because sometimes: YOU CANNOT DO IT YOURSELF . Excellent video and killer non-name brand strap !!
Good question about TJI's, for those you can only cut into the web part (not the top or bottom chords). You can cut a pretty decent size hole in their webs. TJI suppliers usually do a good job in their catalogs say what size hole(s) you can have. This strap should also work on a cut TJI bottom chord as well.
Id want that repair strap min 1/4" thick how you show it going on. Thinner, I would put it on the face over the cracked area. Steel has similar strength orientation as lumber.
Is sistering to floor joists permitted. I jacked the new joists to make them firm against the the floor and resting on the sill plate and center beam.. then used carriage bolts and washers to fasten the old and new joists together.
Wonder if you could answer a question..... Did not see it covered in the video. The IRC 2018 code states "The tension side of members 4 inches or greater in nominal thickness shall not be notched except at the ends of the members." I am not sure if I am understanding this correctly. Could you explained this part to me. I would greatly appreciate it. Currently studying building codes. Great video!
Thanks! very useful. There are double joist under the wall in my second floor. it between two joists(16ins).i need cut nutch and hole for pluming. Is this double joists is very import ? i think is just for the wall.
Question my second story floor joist (2x10 #2 yellow southern pine) was notched by 4 inches deep and 7 inches wide. The notch was made on the top of the joist. The joist spans 13'8" to the load bearing walls on each side. The notch was made at 6' from one of the ends. The joists are spaced 16" on center. Would this product help restore the structural integrity of the joist? Note that the damaged joist is the fifth joist out of nine that help support the master bath on the second story. Thanks in advance for the answer!
Hi Richard, I have a 9 foot floor TJI floor joist (12") that the electrician cut the bottom rail of the TJI joist right in the middle of the span. Will your joist repair kit work for me to shore up the bottom rail of a TJI joist?
The joists under my kitchen are notched to allow for garage door opener to operate thru notch. Floor sags terribly and gets worse each year. My question, if we have straps installed that strengthens joists, but doesn't correct sagging issues that have already occurred. How do we correct the sag? Keep in mind the garage is below the notched joists so putting floor Jack's there will eliminate garage usage which we don't want to do. Suggestions?
Raise the floor back to level with Jack's and temporary walls on each side. Install steel reinforcing straps as specified and designed by a structural engineer. Remove supports. PS if none of your vehicle tops reach within 3" of the raised door, and the garage depth is at least twice that of the raised door, then there was a way to avoid notching the joists in the first place.
Not if you pre-drill with the bit the kit comes with. Also, you may not need to use all screws depending on the loading. We can provide a design report to determine the number of screws required.
Personally, for joist repair, I will ALWAYS sister up the joist, from end to end. It's always the best solution, and arguably not all that must effort. If I can't do a complete sister, I will do a partial sister, but on BOTH sides of the joist. Also, I do NOT use screws to attach for structural reasons. Why? Because the screws often pull or move before taking up the required forces. INSTEAD, I use high strength polyurethane construction adhesive. Before attaching with this adhesive, I will jack up the affected joist slightly (maybe half inch or more depending upon sag). Then I will glue the double sister joists in place and use screws, mainly just to hold the sisters will glue cures. Also, I am sure to spread the polyurethane evenly everywhere. When it sets, it will take ~500 psi shear load. If you have plenty of sister overlap (a couple of feet on each side of damage), that will easily replace any compression of tension losses from a hacked joist. Once glue is cured, then release jack.
Sorry you feel like this is the best option, I would suggest watching the videos and see we've done the research and this works just as good if not better. Feel free to contact us for more information if needed? 518-280-3190
Yes that would work too. Just trying to save on all that work and not having to pull electric or plumbing. Technically a sister would be the same size joist and would make the notched one obsolete so there is no need for nails or screws or glue other than to keep the sister in place. Of course nails and glue along with the notched joists would be stronger.
@@nolanengineeringpllc2713 it sucks having to pull plumbing and electrical, but often it can’t be helped if you want it done right, once and for all. I just did this in three of my rooms. It’s all solid now.
PS many non-engineers don’t understand the level of tensile and compressive forces in the bottom and top of a joist. It is often in the several thousands of pounds. So if you are trying to replace the piece of a missing joist carrying that load, you will very unlikely be able to do it with screws attaching a new piece of wood. All of the effort will simply just get pulled or pushed like it was never there. So that’s why I will use the polyurethane adhesive applied continuously over an overlapping area (a number of feet). Also, the adhesive must cure while there is no load on the joist (hence jack it up), otherwise the joist will not be restored to normal. But the best option is to sister the whole joist from wall to wall.
i would like to see you go into a real job site and see if you can work with the notching criteria. I've never see notches that small. all I've seen are hack jobs
Not sure what you mean. These can span a notch up to 12" wide. If the notch is larger than that then there wont work. Yes, the straps will not solve all the types of notches that may be experienced in the field.
@@nolanengineeringpllc2713 I believe the person is saying that the overarching rules regarding notching, hole size/location, etc. are oftentimes ignored in practicej on job sites. In other words, people tend to ignore the engineering rules and requirements you explained so well in your video. BTW thank you for sharing this great information!s
Recently bought a fixer-upper and the one photo in the video reminded me of the hatchet job previous owner(s) did on the place! No less than 5 joists, in various locations, were literally cut off completely (one to two foot sections) to install heating ducts or drain lines. Of course that renders the unsupported joists as nearly useless and diminishes the structural integrity overall. I'm not a violent person but sure would like to slap him upside the head for his stupidity!
I appreciate all of the details that you explained in this video!
Thanks!
Well done. Well explained. It's amazing what the Brits do for joist notching/drilling.
Thanks!
glad we came across this, we definitely needed this info for our new project
Thanks!
Is Darth doing a little side work on the camera ? Ace vid
Bro I was like who’s breathing on me 😂
Just what I was looking for. Both the straps AND the insta-footings.
Thanks!
Just the information I needed. Electrician went in and bore holes within two inches of the bottom of the joist. Thank you for the calculations as well. Super informative! Please add a link to the product in the description. Also, you guys should provide standard dimensions of the product for immediate purchase. For example, for 2x10 joists, 10-12 ft long, get *this strap. For 2x8, get *this strap, etc.
OK, thank you, will do.
Amazing joist lesson!
Math all checks out. Thanks for the informative video.
Thank you!
Loved the demonstration and math explanation. Can you do more math examples?
I'll try.
very useful knowledge!! recently renovating my kitchen, plan to run a 3" drain pipe through 5 solid wood joists of 8", the holes that run the drain pipe are over 3" Dia, so I want to use the metal joist reinforcement plate to support the joists. it is possible? Thanks
Some codes won't allow the close edge distance for the 1/4" SDS screws. In similar repairs, I had to use a steel angle and screw into the face of the joist. You can notch the vertical leg of the angle at a pipe location. You should probably take 5/6 of the joist height for your effective bending moment arm. The centroid of the compression would be about 1/6 of the joist height from the top. Our code also requires a minimum partition allowance of 10psf. 10psf DL seems on the light side.
Correct, the screw spacing is less than code. But it was the only option because so many screws are needed. To get around that I tested 2x12s spanned max span with max load and it held. I used sand bags.
Hi is there a way to repair the notched on the upper side?
Last owner of my house cut out over 70% of each joist halfway across a room to run a toilet drain into the garage. I don't know how the ceiling hasn't fallen yet.
Yea, I have seen some pretty crazy stuff too.
OMG
can i hav ea shower drain on top of the joist? i am working with a 32 by 48 shower base where the hole is in the middle but it is also going to be on top of the floor joist is there a solution ?
can you notch the center of the joist if you sister the top portion ?
I am so distracted by the background heavy breathing.
Haha
Sorry was my first video and my son had a cold and asthma
@@nolanengineeringpllc2713
I am so sorry
I feel so bad now
Thank you to your son for filming you while not being well.
Very informative video. Thank you.
I would like to reach back to 1995 and Strangle the HVAC mech that hacked the lower cord of a TJI !! Can you speak to the latest requirements of Engineered Lumber such as the TJI - BCI - LVL's Parallams etc... MOST of today's construction is NOT Dimensional Lumber and there are apparently a lot of people that need to lay down "their" tools and pick up a crack pipe !! C'mon People - Do NOT work outside of your level of knowledge and scope!! Cut your Big Box store CC in half because sometimes: YOU CANNOT DO IT YOURSELF . Excellent video and killer non-name brand strap !!
Good question about TJI's, for those you can only cut into the web part (not the top or bottom chords). You can cut a pretty decent size hole in their webs. TJI suppliers usually do a good job in their catalogs say what size hole(s) you can have. This strap should also work on a cut TJI bottom chord as well.
Id want that repair strap min 1/4" thick how you show it going on. Thinner, I would put it on the face over the cracked area. Steel has similar strength orientation as lumber.
Is sistering to floor joists permitted. I jacked the new joists to make them firm against the the floor and resting on the sill plate and center beam.. then used carriage bolts and washers to fasten the old and new joists together.
Yes, sisterring has been done for ever, its fine.
Darth Vader on camera duty?
Wonder if you could answer a question..... Did not see it covered in the video. The IRC 2018 code states "The tension side of members 4 inches or greater in nominal thickness shall not be notched except at the ends of the members." I am not sure if I am understanding this correctly. Could you explained this part to me. I would greatly appreciate it. Currently studying building codes. Great video!
can you elaborate 4:25
looks like my own scenario with the exception of plumbing is on top (bathroom the second floor)
Thanks! very useful.
There are double joist under the wall in my second floor. it between two joists(16ins).i need cut nutch and hole for pluming. Is this double joists is very import ? i think is just for the wall.
They usually double joists under walls to support the weight of the wall. So they are important.
Just a FYI, your site has a mismatched certificate. And even bypassing the warning just lands me on your hosting provider's page.
Thank you I will see if I can fix it.
Is this information still current as of 08/2022¿
thank you sir
Question my second story floor joist (2x10 #2 yellow southern pine) was notched by 4 inches deep and 7 inches wide. The notch was made on the top of the joist. The joist spans 13'8" to the load bearing walls on each side. The notch was made at 6' from one of the ends. The joists are spaced 16" on center. Would this product help restore the structural integrity of the joist? Note that the damaged joist is the fifth joist out of nine that help support the master bath on the second story. Thanks in advance for the answer!
Sorry for the later response. The strap would need to go on the top or top side
Hi Richard,
I have a 9 foot floor TJI floor joist (12") that the electrician cut the bottom rail of the TJI joist right in the middle of the span. Will your joist repair kit work for me to shore up the bottom rail of a TJI joist?
It would be best to contact the manufacturer of that joist about a proper repair. I’m sure their engineers will send you a fix for their joist.
Sorry for the late response, so busy here. Yes it should you can always send a picture.
The joists under my kitchen are notched to allow for garage door opener to operate thru notch. Floor sags terribly and gets worse each year. My question, if we have straps installed that strengthens joists, but doesn't correct sagging issues that have already occurred. How do we correct the sag? Keep in mind the garage is below the notched joists so putting floor Jack's there will eliminate garage usage which we don't want to do. Suggestions?
Raise the floor back to level with Jack's and temporary walls on each side. Install steel reinforcing straps as specified and designed by a structural engineer. Remove supports.
PS if none of your vehicle tops reach within 3" of the raised door, and the garage depth is at least twice that of the raised door, then there was a way to avoid notching the joists in the first place.
Sorry for the later response. You would have to jack first then install the straps as the other Gentleman said.
Do the number of screws not cause the wood to split?
Not if you pre-drill with the bit the kit comes with. Also, you may not need to use all screws depending on the loading. We can provide a design report to determine the number of screws required.
What type of screws are you using
Simpson SDS25112 structural screw 1/4" diameter 1.5" long
1/4" diamete 1.5" long Simpson SDS25112
First you might want to put the URL in you description so we can just click. Next at your site, how do I buy? How much?
Thank you for the advise, I need a youtube expert lol. I will work on it.
Thank you, I will need to get some one who knows computer stuff better than me lol.
Personally, for joist repair, I will ALWAYS sister up the joist, from end to end. It's always the best solution, and arguably not all that must effort. If I can't do a complete sister, I will do a partial sister, but on BOTH sides of the joist. Also, I do NOT use screws to attach for structural reasons. Why? Because the screws often pull or move before taking up the required forces. INSTEAD, I use high strength polyurethane construction adhesive. Before attaching with this adhesive, I will jack up the affected joist slightly (maybe half inch or more depending upon sag). Then I will glue the double sister joists in place and use screws, mainly just to hold the sisters will glue cures. Also, I am sure to spread the polyurethane evenly everywhere. When it sets, it will take ~500 psi shear load. If you have plenty of sister overlap (a couple of feet on each side of damage), that will easily replace any compression of tension losses from a hacked joist. Once glue is cured, then release jack.
Sorry you feel like this is the best option, I would suggest watching the videos and see we've done the research and this works just as good if not better. Feel free to contact us for more information if needed? 518-280-3190
Yes that would work too. Just trying to save on all that work and not having to pull electric or plumbing. Technically a sister would be the same size joist and would make the notched one obsolete so there is no need for nails or screws or glue other than to keep the sister in place. Of course nails and glue along with the notched joists would be stronger.
@@nolanengineeringpllc2713 it sucks having to pull plumbing and electrical, but often it can’t be helped if you want it done right, once and for all. I just did this in three of my rooms. It’s all solid now.
PS many non-engineers don’t understand the level of tensile and compressive forces in the bottom and top of a joist. It is often in the several thousands of pounds. So if you are trying to replace the piece of a missing joist carrying that load, you will very unlikely be able to do it with screws attaching a new piece of wood. All of the effort will simply just get pulled or pushed like it was never there. So that’s why I will use the polyurethane adhesive applied continuously over an overlapping area (a number of feet). Also, the adhesive must cure while there is no load on the joist (hence jack it up), otherwise the joist will not be restored to normal. But the best option is to sister the whole joist from wall to wall.
@@superwiseman452 sounds good!
Woodprix scripts contain most of the woodworking plans you can find.
i would like to see you go into a real job site and see if you can work with the notching criteria. I've never see notches that small. all I've seen are hack jobs
Not sure what you mean. These can span a notch up to 12" wide. If the notch is larger than that then there wont work. Yes, the straps will not solve all the types of notches that may be experienced in the field.
@@nolanengineeringpllc2713 I believe the person is saying that the overarching rules regarding notching, hole size/location, etc. are oftentimes ignored in practicej on job sites. In other words, people tend to ignore the engineering rules and requirements you explained so well in your video. BTW thank you for sharing this great information!s
The dude behind the camera is breathing really hard. sucking on the mic lol..
Recently bought a fixer-upper and the one photo in the video reminded me of the hatchet job previous owner(s) did on the place! No less than 5 joists, in various locations, were literally cut off completely (one to two foot sections) to install heating ducts or drain lines. Of course that renders the unsupported joists as nearly useless and diminishes the structural integrity overall. I'm not a violent person but sure would like to slap him upside the head for his stupidity!
Yes, I see it all the time, its too bad.