What’s wrong with tipping the mower on its side, or using an evaluator? And you DO realize that the engines and mowers are designed by two different companies?
@@tedschmitt178 Yep, Briggs and Toro...Very popular manufacturers that should be in sync....Looks like that lower belt cover is in the way of the crankcase oil drain. Tipping the mower on its side usually makes a mess under those plastic covers, and no, don't have an "evacuator". Pulling the drain plug is the best way to let the engine drain completely. In this case, I blame Toro for not designing the lower belt cover to be easily removed without pulling off the blade and hub....
We have become a replaceable society. Toro did research and found consumers expect to replace their mower every 3 years…that’s why everything isn’t serviceable anymore. It’s cheaper to produce and meets consumers expectations. Time to hit the yard with my 30 year old mower!
Thanks for the instructions on draining the oil. I think that I'll stop by our local home improvement store to see if they have an inexpensive oil evacuator.
According to the Toro site it illustrates just tipping mower to the side and draining oil from the fill cap, (same place to add oil) I have the second mower model in this video. The service manual doesn’t mention removing the drain plug. However I did try tipping mine to side like service manual said and it did fairly well job but I still removed drain plug very little came out. FYI: if you have the second mower in video like I do it only takes 18 ounces oil and they do sell bottles with that capacity.
very nice and thank you for explaining both hte methods as i dont have the vacuum machine.. the tilt option is perfect and suits a typical homeowner.. please do make other videos of full service of a lawn mower when you have to store after the summer usage. also things required to do before the next season use following the winter storage.
I have the Toro smart store mower and I had gas in my oil reservoir so I just tipped it over oil side down and poured all out and replaced it worked fine I didn't have any gas in the mower at the time put more gas in after replacing the oil and it started first pull
Hello I have the older style toroe and I love it . A friend gave it to me the pullie broke on it so I went to the local mower shop and got a new one its been running grate every time I use it
Donyboy, if there ever is a 4th way it would be on my lawnmower. My recycler toro was made in 2014 so it was between your two models. It has the belt guard like your second model had but the top section around the oil cap on your first looks like mine. The difference between my model and the second model is that B&S changed the bolt that holds the belt guard from a short bolt to a self tapping one that goes through the engine hold down block. I chose to drain the oil the way I always have, through the oil plug.......I managed to break the head off the guard bolt. So I had to drill a hole through the broken bolt large enough to get a 1/4” bolt 1 1/4” long with a locking nut and washer to reattach the guard.....Ended up changing the oil the first way you demonstrated...who would have thunk??? Good video.
When you flipped the first mower, can't tell for sure, but what is that round looking thing, just to the upper right of the clutch cover. Looks like a easy access drain plug to me. Can't imagine them not having one that is easy to get to , but then again I trust your expertise.
Don, I have had good luck with Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 motor oil. I use it in all of my 4 cycle equipment. Some say engines consume more 10W-30 above 80 degrees, but I have not found this to be the case. I have run my 4.5kw generator for a straight 24 hours and the oil level did not change one bit. I used it in my Honda HRR-216 for 4 years in pretty rough service and I only seldom had to add a little oil to it. At least no more than I would have to add if it was a straight 30W. I do break in my engines with convential oil but switch over to synthetic oil, asap. I generally replace their oil after around 3 to 4 hours of operation and use the same oil they were originally filled with. At around 10 hours, I replace that oil with synthetic. This gets all the break-in particles out of the engine and is enough time for the rings to seat. I also change my oil at around 25 hours and use the same Pennzoil synthetic oil. I have tried 5W30 but this oil does not hold its oil level like 10W-30.
I have never drained the oil via the drain plug on any push mower. I always tip it sideways and drain through the fill spout. I also use SAE30. But I have often wondered about 5w30 and 10w30. I understand that these oils may be too thin when cold, but I also assume that these mowers rarely run cold since they are used in the summer and are only air cooler. Snow blowers are obviously a different story since they are run in the freezing cold.
I have a toro that will start on the 2 or 3 rd pull every time. I have never changed the oil, plug or anything. Just add gas and go. It’s 19 yrs old now. I use it about 20 mins once a week.
Nope, people either hire someone to mow their lawn, or they buy a new lawnmower quite often LOL. Simple maintenance on a lawnmower can make them last for many years...usually I wear the decks out to the point the wheels fall off, but the engines are still good. I now have a Toro FWD 22" Recycler that was given to me because it wouldn't start, I didn't have time to mess with it so I took it to a shop, they charged $60 to sharpen the blade, change the oil, new air filter, new spark plug, and to clean out the carburetor. It runs fine, but if it dies or you shut it off after it has ran for several minutes good luck getting it started again. This is my first self propelled mower, and right now I'm still not really sure I like it. I mostly use it to mow around the edge of everything, and around the trees and bushes before I jump on the riding mower. Maybe if I was mowing my yard with the walk behind and didn't have a bunch of stuff to mow around the self propel would be fine, but when you have to stop and backup, turn around, etc, the self propel really makes the mower hard to pull backwards...and they're all that way, dumbest design ever....if that self propel feature breaks they're hard to push too.
I have the same toro that's over 10 years old I never changed the oil ..just added when low once . Never had a problem. Starts first pull. I'll change it completely this weekend, I think she more then derseves it .
My mower is from 1997 (Yard Man, rear drive, casters on front, I love it) (Briggs engine) and it still performs wonderfully. The manual states 30 weight oil, and that use of a multi-viscosity oil can cause premature engine wear. I had my mower serviced and they used 10-30 and said it wouldn't harm it. I'd love to hear your opinion on this. Thank you!
10W30 Synthetic such as Amsoil Small Engine won't harm it but it does burn in warmer weather above 80. It's a synthetic and does an extremely good job of keeping your engine cool. I wouldn't advise using oil designed for a car engine whatever you do. But you will need to keep a closer eye on your dipstick. The advantage of 10W30 is the mower starts in colder temps below 40 degrees. Great oil for those of us in the North, not so great in the south! My recommendation for a Briggs would be 10W40 for the summer months and I generally change to 5W30 synthetic here in the last week of September as the last mow of winter(October-November) is just slightly above freezing. 10W30 is an amazing year around oil from 0F to 100F and offers excellent protection. SAE 30 was the best option when Dyno oil was what was available. Personally I run Royal Purple SAE 30 in my older Briggs 190CC. While I use 10W30 Amsoil Small Engine in my Honda GCV160. Overall I notice the Amsoil stays cleaner longer but I haven't seen an issue with either one of them. The most important thing is to change the oil itself in a timely manner. Not always what you use. Fuel always seems to contaminate the oil if you use it too long in these small engines. The main thing is to keep the engine cool, minimize wear, and keep it clean. Either of those oils would be excellent. Oil is cheap! Older Briggs Flat Head Engines are priceless! Edited(Probably a useless reply given your comment was from 7 years ago) 🤦♂️😅
Neat to get a close look at one of those personal pace machines. I assume the pulley underneath is for the drive, but still pretty complicated looking.
I love mine, makes mowing so much easier, especially on hills. My only complaint is the height adjustment - it's very awkward/stiff to adjust (each wheel as to be adjusted separately).
@@soapsoilandsunshine3241 are there ones where you don't have to adjust each wheel separately? My little 20 inch push mower, now relegated to mowing places I can't fit my lawn tractor, has separate adjustments on each wheel too
@@rpavlik1 I’m not sure. I’m more inclined to fix what I have rather than look at buying a new one. Temptation gets too strong lol. I’ll have a quick check.
You end up with more of a complete drain for contaminants. So for those looking to keep their engine running as long as possible this is the only way to get rid of the most oil and contaminants in the engine possible. Your engine will run cleaner as a result and have a longer lifespan.
Ya my drain plug is under now I know how to do it the right way I just changed it and put way to much in. I guess I'll drain it this way and put not so much in.
why do some engines read when you check the oil, either screw the dipstick all the way in or just rest it on top. I have a toro recycler with the Tecumseh 6.75, engine model LV195EA. year 2004. deck model 20031. does it really matter.
so the Toro model number 20332 doesn't have a drain plug under the lawnmower or it's hitting by the lawnmower frame, because i like changing the oil from the oil plug because it's more easy to flush out the old oil
I was thanking maybe it needs to be adjusted the reason I believe that is the carb was on a 12hp but now its on an 8 hp and I didn't adjust it yet im new to this but im trying to get into it maybe the adjustments are different for a 8 hp than a 12 but im not sure do you think so maybe that is it
Two happy mowers :-D My old classic 3.5 has the underplug, makes the job simple :) if it wont go in easy by hand then anticlockwise 1/2 turn and try again, im no lover of cross threaded aluminium lol.
Hi donyboy73. Can you tell me, why one can use only two stroke outboard motor oil in two stroke out boards, and not just any two stroke oils, like those used in motor cycles, chain saws and other stuff?
Hey @donyboy73 would like to say thank-you for sharing such informative videos, & just out of curiosity what are the forfeits for not changing the oil regularly enough? Kind regards. Btw your a credit to humanity, wish you all the best from England.
Thanks so much for this video. I changed the oil yesterday and it worked a treat. I've ordered a new spark plug as existing one was covered in carbon. The oil plug in my Toro self propelled was in a slightly different spot to yours so I didn't have to undo anything to access it (Australian version circa. 2010). Just wondering if you know why if sometimes sounds like it's nearly out of fuel (engine dies as if it's going to stop then it starts up again). Could this be a fuel issue? This comes and goes.
I have never used 30 oil in my machines , i think it's a bad oil of the reson that there is better oil's to day . They used that caind of oil in the motors of the beginning of the 60th and we are in 2015 now . In the machines i have and use i always have thougt that the motors are no better then the engine In the car or motorcykel so i use mobile1 10w40 fully synthetic oil and i have used my lawnmover in almoast 20 years without a problem. I know that the aircooled engine runs warmer then a watercooled engine but i think it's not a problem. Best whishes from sweden nothern euroup. Hakan
G'day Donny I was just wondering weather you know anything about a mower called "Proscape" with a Kawasaki engine, the one I have seen is self propelled and. Is a fairly large lawn mower regards John
I have a friends Toro lawn mower that needed a new ignition module and primer bulb. It was running and then there was some smoke coming out of the exhaust and wouldn't start again. A week later I was trying to start it again and it does not run and there is smoke coming out still, it smells like oil. If the oil level is good what can I check to see what the problem is ?
hey don i have a need for advice. my kawi motor on my exmark mower keeps surging. It has done this twice in the past month and i have cleaned the carb both times and it runs fine. after a few mows it gets dirt in the jet again and starts surging and running lean. what could be causing this? I clean the air filter after every mow because it gets dirty quickly. I also replaced the gaskets from the airbox to the carb and from the carb to the intake manifold.
what model was that second mower? I think that is the one that I have but when I bought it used, all the stickers had been removed so I have no idea what it is. I think it's the 20066?
Honda mowers for example decided that changing oil isn't needed I guess because they don't have drain plugs on their engines. Dumbest thing I've ever seen. Sucking the oil out of the engine from the top doesn't get all the gunk out of the bottom of the engine the way that draining it out the bottom does.
I have a Toro with the Techumseh motor and I really hate it. It's 7 years old and after 2 years I have to replace the gaskets. Do you have a video on how to do that? What make them go out so fast?
God forbid manufacturers design a mower than can have its oil changed easily without taking half the thing apart or spilling the oil over everything!
What’s wrong with tipping the mower on its side, or using an evaluator? And you DO realize that the engines and mowers are designed by two different companies?
@@tedschmitt178 Yep, Briggs and Toro...Very popular manufacturers that should be in sync....Looks like that lower belt cover is in the way of the crankcase oil drain. Tipping the mower on its side usually makes a mess under those plastic covers, and no, don't have an "evacuator". Pulling the drain plug is the best way to let the engine drain completely. In this case, I blame Toro for not designing the lower belt cover to be easily removed without pulling off the blade and hub....
@@fleetwin1 Whenever I change the oil in my mower I put it up on sawhorses. That way I can remove the drain plug in a similar way to that of a car
We have become a replaceable society. Toro did research and found consumers expect to replace their mower every 3 years…that’s why everything isn’t serviceable anymore. It’s cheaper to produce and meets consumers expectations. Time to hit the yard with my 30 year old mower!
No joke 😅
That's the cleanest oil I've ever seen come out of mower...
Always enjoy your videos. Instructive without the need for use of foul language! Keep up the good work!
I always tip the mower back and place a weight on the handle bar to keep it up in the air. Gives easy access to the underside.
First timer watched the video and I successfully did the oil change
Thanks for the video. I still own my Toro Engine Reel mower. Though it has a production date of 1969 it still runs great.
Wow!
Thank you for sharing. That was, by far, one of the best "how to" videos I've seen. I might actually be successful in changing the oil on my mower.
+aflores7y you're welcome
A great no nonsense video that covers the topic extremely well! Thanks
Excellent, to the point and clear, VERY helpful!
Thanks for the instructions on draining the oil. I think that I'll stop by our local home improvement store to see if they have an inexpensive oil evacuator.
Those mighty vac evacuators are nice. Had mine for a few years.
According to the Toro site it illustrates just tipping mower to the side and draining oil from the fill cap, (same place to add oil) I have the second mower model in this video. The service manual doesn’t mention removing the drain plug. However I did try tipping mine to side like service manual said and it did fairly well job but I still removed drain plug very little came out. FYI: if you have the second mower in video like I do it only takes 18 ounces oil and they do sell bottles with that capacity.
So succinct and to the point. I especially like that the close-ups are in focus!!!
thanks!
Boom! Changed the oil on my Toro - it's running excellent now! Thanks a ton!!
Nice video! We do learn from these videos, no matter how much we already know. Thanks! Barry in Pa.
Thanks for the info! Got my mom's Toro running like new again for under $20!
you are the best for sharing like you do. super friendly and helpful. thanks a bunch
bobby redondo thank you sir!
One of the better youtube tutorials
Thanks Don ! Every time I watch one of your videos, I always learn something !
The evacuator is very cool. I have used the tip-drain-spill method, but the evacuator is much better! Thanks!!
I see its very hot in Canada too. Today its 32 degrees C. Best regards from Croatia.
very nice and thank you for explaining both hte methods as i dont have the vacuum machine.. the tilt option is perfect and suits a typical homeowner..
please do make other videos of full service of a lawn mower when you have to store after the summer usage. also things required to do before the next season use following the winter storage.
I have the Toro smart store mower and I had gas in my oil reservoir so I just tipped it over oil side down and poured all out and replaced it worked fine I didn't have any gas in the mower at the time put more gas in after replacing the oil and it started first pull
You’re the BEST Danny! I LOVE your tutorials...
Hello I have the older style toroe and I love it . A friend gave it to me the pullie broke on it so I went to the local mower shop and got a new one its been running grate every time I use it
You can buy that oil suction tool at any Harbor freight store
Donyboy, if there ever is a 4th way it would be on my lawnmower. My recycler toro was made in 2014 so it was between your two models. It has the belt guard like your second model had but the top section around the oil cap on your first looks like mine. The difference between my model and the second model is that B&S changed the bolt that holds the belt guard from a short bolt to a self tapping one that goes through the engine hold down block. I chose to drain the oil the way I always have, through the oil plug.......I managed to break the head off the guard bolt. So I had to drill a hole through the broken bolt large enough to get a 1/4” bolt 1 1/4” long with a locking nut and washer to reattach the guard.....Ended up changing the oil the first way you demonstrated...who would have thunk??? Good video.
When you flipped the first mower, can't tell for sure, but what is that round looking thing, just to the upper right of the clutch cover. Looks like a easy access drain plug to me. Can't imagine them not having one that is easy to get to , but then again I trust your expertise.
Looks like an engine mounting bolt, too far forward on the engine to be a drain plug.
eh, screw that plug. im a risk taker, im tipping it! lol
I DID THE SAME THING! Now I need to know how clean it actually needs to be before replacing the oil.
Me too😂
@@chasingshangrila lmao
@@hippa2dahoppa2it’s so much easier 😂😂
@@chasingshangrila this reminds me i havent changed my oil in 5 yrs actually lol. should prob do that
good information and a well done video. My Toro has done me well : ) 6.5 hp recycler
Don, I have had good luck with Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 motor oil. I use it in all of my 4 cycle equipment. Some say engines consume more 10W-30 above 80 degrees, but I have not found this to be the case. I have run my 4.5kw generator for a straight 24 hours and the oil level did not change one bit. I used it in my Honda HRR-216 for 4 years in pretty rough service and I only seldom had to add a little oil to it. At least no more than I would have to add if it was a straight 30W.
I do break in my engines with convential oil but switch over to synthetic oil, asap. I generally replace their oil after around 3 to 4 hours of operation and use the same oil they were originally filled with. At around 10 hours, I replace that oil with synthetic. This gets all the break-in particles out of the engine and is enough time for the rings to seat. I also change my oil at around 25 hours and use the same Pennzoil synthetic oil. I have tried 5W30 but this oil does not hold its oil level like 10W-30.
Thanks for the tip Don!👍
🙏🙏have the old one and buying the newer one, thank you🙏
Thank you, your efforts are greatly appreciated to teach us.
I have never drained the oil via the drain plug on any push mower. I always tip it sideways and drain through the fill spout.
I also use SAE30. But I have often wondered about 5w30 and 10w30. I understand that these oils may be too thin when cold, but I also assume that these mowers rarely run cold since they are used in the summer and are only air cooler.
Snow blowers are obviously a different story since they are run in the freezing cold.
Great video! Very detailed! Thanks!
I have a toro that will start on the 2 or 3 rd pull every time. I have never changed the oil, plug or anything. Just add gas and go. It’s 19 yrs old now. I use it about 20 mins once a week.
Lawnmowers are in in dire need of a basic redesign for changing oil.
they do it because it cheapens the manufacturing process
Thanks for posting this video. It was very helpful and exactly what I needed!
I have a toro recycler 22” 7.25/190cc. Has a place where it looks like there should be a drip plug but doesn’t looks like it comes apart
such an easy thing to do yet nobody thinks it's important on every one of these I've worked on
Nope, people either hire someone to mow their lawn, or they buy a new lawnmower quite often LOL. Simple maintenance on a lawnmower can make them last for many years...usually I wear the decks out to the point the wheels fall off, but the engines are still good.
I now have a Toro FWD 22" Recycler that was given to me because it wouldn't start, I didn't have time to mess with it so I took it to a shop, they charged $60 to sharpen the blade, change the oil, new air filter, new spark plug, and to clean out the carburetor. It runs fine, but if it dies or you shut it off after it has ran for several minutes good luck getting it started again. This is my first self propelled mower, and right now I'm still not really sure I like it. I mostly use it to mow around the edge of everything, and around the trees and bushes before I jump on the riding mower. Maybe if I was mowing my yard with the walk behind and didn't have a bunch of stuff to mow around the self propel would be fine, but when you have to stop and backup, turn around, etc, the self propel really makes the mower hard to pull backwards...and they're all that way, dumbest design ever....if that self propel feature breaks they're hard to push too.
I have the same toro that's over 10 years old I never changed the oil ..just added when low once . Never had a problem. Starts first pull. I'll change it completely this weekend, I think she more then derseves it .
Thank You
Easy enough, thanks!
My mower is from 1997 (Yard Man, rear drive, casters on front, I love it) (Briggs engine) and it still performs wonderfully. The manual states 30 weight oil, and that use of a multi-viscosity oil can cause premature engine wear. I had my mower serviced and they used 10-30 and said it wouldn't harm it. I'd love to hear your opinion on this. Thank you!
10W30 Synthetic such as Amsoil Small Engine won't harm it but it does burn in warmer weather above 80. It's a synthetic and does an extremely good job of keeping your engine cool. I wouldn't advise using oil designed for a car engine whatever you do. But you will need to keep a closer eye on your dipstick. The advantage of 10W30 is the mower starts in colder temps below 40 degrees. Great oil for those of us in the North, not so great in the south!
My recommendation for a Briggs would be 10W40 for the summer months and I generally change to 5W30 synthetic here in the last week of September as the last mow of winter(October-November) is just slightly above freezing.
10W30 is an amazing year around oil from 0F to 100F and offers excellent protection. SAE 30 was the best option when Dyno oil was what was available.
Personally I run Royal Purple SAE 30 in my older Briggs 190CC. While I use 10W30 Amsoil Small Engine in my Honda GCV160. Overall I notice the Amsoil stays cleaner longer but I haven't seen an issue with either one of them.
The most important thing is to change the oil itself in a timely manner. Not always what you use. Fuel always seems to contaminate the oil if you use it too long in these small engines. The main thing is to keep the engine cool, minimize wear, and keep it clean. Either of those oils would be excellent.
Oil is cheap! Older Briggs Flat Head Engines are priceless!
Edited(Probably a useless reply given your comment was from 7 years ago) 🤦♂️😅
Just what I needed! Gave it a thumbs-up and subscribed.
Thank you
Neat to get a close look at one of those personal pace machines. I assume the pulley underneath is for the drive, but still pretty complicated looking.
There all pretty straight forward though
Yes, the pulley is to operate the transmission. They seem to work pretty well.
I love mine, makes mowing so much easier, especially on hills. My only complaint is the height adjustment - it's very awkward/stiff to adjust (each wheel as to be adjusted separately).
@@soapsoilandsunshine3241 are there ones where you don't have to adjust each wheel separately? My little 20 inch push mower, now relegated to mowing places I can't fit my lawn tractor, has separate adjustments on each wheel too
@@rpavlik1 I’m not sure. I’m more inclined to fix what I have rather than look at buying a new one. Temptation gets too strong lol. I’ll have a quick check.
Nice job. Do you the evacuator for most of your oil changes??? Less work and mess?
Bruce
Good job😊😊
Another great video Don! Thanks!
Any reason I shouldn’t just tip it over to drain the oil out?
You end up with more of a complete drain for contaminants. So for those looking to keep their engine running as long as possible this is the only way to get rid of the most oil and contaminants in the engine possible. Your engine will run cleaner as a result and have a longer lifespan.
Excellent. Thank You !!!
Great video. Thank you very much!
keep up the good work Donny
thanks brian
Great video. Thanks Don.
Easy just tip and drain 😁
Ya my drain plug is under now I know how to do it the right way I just changed it and put way to much in. I guess I'll drain it this way and put not so much in.
Donny nice instructive vid as always. thanks tom
Tnk u so much... god bless
Thanks Man appreciate it !i got the new model
Great video! Thanks for posting
why do some engines read when you check the oil, either screw the dipstick all the way in or just rest it on top. I have a toro recycler with the Tecumseh 6.75, engine model LV195EA. year 2004. deck model 20031. does it really matter.
yes it matters
nice job with good tips
thanks
Well done!
Your videos are great, thanks.....
thank you
another good video...thanks
so the Toro model number 20332 doesn't have a drain plug under the lawnmower or it's hitting by the lawnmower frame, because i like changing the oil from the oil plug because it's more easy to flush out the old oil
Should you drain the gas 1st before you drain the oil?
you can if you think it's going to spill
I was thanking maybe it needs to be adjusted the reason I believe that is the carb was on a 12hp but now its on an 8 hp and I didn't adjust it yet im new to this but im trying to get into it maybe the adjustments are different for a 8 hp than a 12 but im not sure do you think so maybe that is it
Two happy mowers :-D
My old classic 3.5 has the underplug, makes the job simple :)
if it wont go in easy by hand then anticlockwise 1/2 turn and try again, im no lover of cross threaded aluminium lol.
What would happen if you put oil plus gas in oil spot? The container was labeled oil but had both in it.
Hi donyboy73. Can you tell me, why one can use only two stroke outboard motor oil in two stroke out boards, and not just any two stroke oils, like those used in motor cycles, chain saws and other stuff?
THANK YOU, IT IS A GOOD VIDEO
Can you use 10w 30 instead of sae 30 in the newer model?
yes
nice job..!
Why screw around with a hard to reach drain plug when it's so much easier to just tip the mower and drain out of the oil spout on top!
thanks for this vid...
I remove the old oil from the same tube you put the new oil in. Just keep the cylinder a bit upwards while doing this.
i have the newer model, the pull start broke. alot comes off to change it. Would make for a nice video
Hey @donyboy73 would like to say thank-you for sharing such informative videos, & just out of curiosity what are the forfeits for not changing the oil regularly enough? Kind regards. Btw your a credit to humanity, wish you all the best from England.
your engine will wear out much quicker without regular oil changes
I would set the mower up on saw horses.
and the personal pace broke, that i havent looked at but the wheels are frozen up
I have a mower like the newer one. Do any of these size mowers ever have oil filters?
Thanks so much for this video. I changed the oil yesterday and it worked a treat. I've ordered a new spark plug as existing one was covered in carbon. The oil plug in my Toro self propelled was in a slightly different spot to yours so I didn't have to undo anything to access it (Australian version circa. 2010). Just wondering if you know why if sometimes sounds like it's nearly out of fuel (engine dies as if it's going to stop then it starts up again). Could this be a fuel issue? This comes and goes.
The carb sounds like it could use cleaning. One of the jets maybe clogged.
I have never used 30 oil in my machines , i think it's a bad oil of the reson that there is better oil's to day . They used that caind of oil in the motors of the beginning of the 60th and we are in 2015 now . In the machines i have and use i always have thougt that the motors are no better then the engine In the car or motorcykel so i use mobile1 10w40 fully synthetic oil and i have used my lawnmover in almoast 20 years without a problem. I know that the aircooled engine runs warmer then a watercooled engine but i think it's not a problem. Best whishes from sweden nothern euroup. Hakan
Is there an o-ring or seal that has to be used with the oil drain plug. I have oil leaking from the plug. Maybe the plug needs to be tighter?
no o-ring or seal, maybe not tight enough
donyboy I have a mower it don't want to run and it surges but I cleaned the carb what do you think the issue could be
Ben Hall might be a bad carb
FYI: Briggs Quantums take 20 oz. of oil.
G'day Donny I was just wondering weather you know anything about a mower called "Proscape" with a Kawasaki engine, the one I have seen
is self propelled and. Is a fairly large lawn mower regards John
I have a friends Toro lawn mower that needed a new ignition module and primer bulb. It was running and then there was some smoke coming out of the exhaust and wouldn't start again. A week later I was trying to start it again and it does not run and there is smoke coming out still, it smells like oil. If the oil level is good what can I check to see what the problem is ?
hey don i have a need for advice. my kawi motor on my exmark mower keeps surging. It has done this twice in the past month and i have cleaned the carb both times and it runs fine. after a few mows it gets dirt in the jet again and starts surging and running lean. what could be causing this? I clean the air filter after every mow because it gets dirty quickly. I also replaced the gaskets from the airbox to the carb and from the carb to the intake manifold.
u had a oil thing beside your bench that doesnt work no more SIR
what model was that second mower? I think that is the one that I have but when I bought it used, all the stickers had been removed so I have no idea what it is. I think it's the 20066?
I got this similAr mower and it won't start. I use fresh fuel too
How would you get all the oil on top of the mower it would flow better at the bottom of the mower and you would get it all
Honda mowers for example decided that changing oil isn't needed I guess because they don't have drain plugs on their engines. Dumbest thing I've ever seen. Sucking the oil out of the engine from the top doesn't get all the gunk out of the bottom of the engine the way that draining it out the bottom does.
3/8 extension didn't work for me it was too small any suggestions
I think I want to move to Canada. Tell Joni Mitchell I said 'hi', would you?
I have a Toro with the Techumseh motor and I really hate it. It's 7 years old and after 2 years I have to replace the gaskets. Do you have a video on how to do that? What make them go out so fast?
The newer Techumseh engines weren't very good. My 40+ year old Troy Bilt Roto-Tiller with the Tecumseh HH60 engine is still going strong.
I use synthetic oil in my lawn mowers engine
I put in used motor oil from a car. Works fine for 45 years.