There is no one in the whole world, who has this much complete knowledge on this particular Honda City dolphin model car. I think even Honda doesn’t know this accurately about its parts.
@@sharjeelanis7806 You are right, that gentleman is a gem sitting in a small town of Bahawalnagar. He has uploaded load of videos pertaining to data analysis, sensors working, locations etc etc....Right now, his channel is the one which provides you full insight of engine data analysis and I had been looking for causes/remedies of rich fuel mixture and I seldom found any comprehensive videos covering detailed aspects on the topic, on even western channels....I bet, you would not find more than 2 to 3 videos on negative fuel trims (rich mixture....but Desi Efi channel has load of it... At the same time, I would like to appreciate, this gentleman' efforts...thumbs up for this n his other videos
Dear i have mt transmission .You can look for sr.#11 in link mentioned ahead .It is located above the starting clucth.www.lingshondaparts.com/partscatalog/catalog/listing/catalog/hondacars/modelid/7435/block/19SELKD1/blockref/ATM0400/
@@250nashtech Brother My vehicle Honda city manual transmission, cold and hot temperature signal gets flickering (fluctuating) with RPM needle and Petrol Needle. This error happens Mainly at the cold start.
If no oxygen sensor, then it should have an IMA regulator...responsible for maintaining fuel mixture. It is also called as IMA sensor....earlier idsi engines came with IMA instead of oxy sensor
@@250nashtech bro please tell me one thing, the short term furl trim is going from 15 to 20 and beyond, and this is never going to positive ever, i also checked fuel injectors, they are fine also, what is the problem with this excess fuel into engine? i am getting mileage around 7 and 8 in city
I am getting around 35 to 40 kpa manifold abs pressure at idle, is this normal? when I go to 3rd or 4th gears, its around 60 to 100 percent when accelerating, is this normal? my load is getting very high for no reason when accelerating. what could be the reason?
At idle (standard is 24- 35 kpa; , your sensor is crossing upper limit). While you are accelerating, there is no defined value, but it should come closer to idle value as soon as you are running with constant speed., however, when your engine is not running MAP value should equalise to barometric / atmospheric pressure value (14.47 psi or +-; as per altitude where your car is). You mention 60 to 100% while driving...your MAP values doesn't come in percent...perhaps u r talking about CLV value...if yes, then its normal...while accelerator is fully pressed, you get 100% that correlates to engine load corresponding to air entering in engine (calculated thru MAP sensor values, accelerator degrees, engine speed.
40 kpa absolute pressure means your engine vacuume is at lower limit or lower than desired...(depends on at which altitude your car is operating)》less efficient. Reasons for lower vacuum (it could be any of these):- - sensor over reading...can be verified by reading MAP value by fully pressing accelerator with eng off..it should be equal to barometric value of your car. - Air leak in intake, in injectors ports, air hoses, EVAP valve, PCV valve etc.......it will be coupled with rpm issue at idle, may be high rpm or rpm fluctuation in most cases. - intake or exhaust tappets clearance out.....result low compression - ring piston worn out.....result low compression - Head gasket leaking and causing low compression By the way Honda engines are few of the best but inherit issue of tappets getting out....most likely, you are having tappet issue
@@kumars172 I hope you have got them adjusted....tappet ~ valves ~ followers ~ lifters etc same thing comes with different names... It must have improved your user experience along with engine performance. Happy for you mate 👍
@@AbuDujana692 did a head overhaul and fixed valves and unfortunately fucked the engine. This was a already messed up engine, a lot of corrosion on the mating surface. The headgasket was fixed using an rtv, and three of the head bolts were broken and threads were rethreaded. This will never not blow a headgasket and engine is toast.
What a wonderful knowledgeable video on Honda City iDSI - Awesome work..!!!!
There is no one in the whole world, who has this much complete knowledge on this particular Honda City dolphin model car. I think even Honda doesn’t know this accurately about its parts.
Wrong..just check *desi auto efi electrician*
@@sharjeelanis7806
You are right, that gentleman is a gem sitting in a small town of Bahawalnagar. He has uploaded load of videos pertaining to data analysis, sensors working, locations etc etc....Right now, his channel is the one which provides you full insight of engine data analysis and I had been looking for causes/remedies of rich fuel mixture and I seldom found any comprehensive videos covering detailed aspects on the topic, on even western channels....I bet, you would not find more than 2 to 3 videos on negative fuel trims (rich mixture....but Desi Efi channel has load of it...
At the same time, I would like to appreciate, this gentleman' efforts...thumbs up for this n his other videos
@desiautoefielectrician...he is USTAAZ❤❤❤
Ur stuff is of so much quality, keep rocking
Thanx dear
Please make a video of cleaning all these sensors.
Thanks for the valid information 👍
Eng Morgan, would you happen to know where is the wiper relay for the honda city? My intermittent is not working properly.
Nice. Very nice. 😀😀😀
May I request for a video on how to remove rear bumper and tail light? Thank you and more power...
For tail light th-cam.com/video/8_cw_3409mI/w-d-xo.html
For rear bumper th-cam.com/video/2QjK3q6mQLg/w-d-xo.html
do you know where the neutral safety switch is? as in the car doesnt even crank sometimes in park, but will start in neutral
Dear i have mt transmission .You can look for sr.#11 in link mentioned ahead .It is located above the starting clucth.www.lingshondaparts.com/partscatalog/catalog/listing/catalog/hondacars/modelid/7435/block/19SELKD1/blockref/ATM0400/
@@250nashtech
Brother
My vehicle Honda city manual transmission, cold and hot temperature signal gets flickering (fluctuating) with RPM needle and Petrol Needle. This error happens Mainly at the cold start.
@@krishnaraja5427 Check the wires and grip of ECT sensor.Also computer check the car.
@@250nashtech sure
Brother
I will check as your guidance
P0132 read code . Oxygen sensor 1 bank 1 overheated. Check engine light turns on only when raining. Any solution?
Check the wiring of the sensor for breakage.If it is fine then replace the sensor.
@@250nashtechThere is no front o2 sensor behind engine. But my car is same model. 1.5L idsi . Why?!
If no oxygen sensor, then it should have an IMA regulator...responsible for maintaining fuel mixture.
It is also called as IMA sensor....earlier idsi engines came with IMA instead of oxy sensor
does this have an egr valve?
nope
pls do a cam thrust o ring replacement..... thank you so much
th-cam.com/video/BfD6vLSuzbE/w-d-xo.html
does it have a maf sensor?
No,some cars have maf instead of map.
@@250nashtech bro please tell me one thing, the short term furl trim is going from 15 to 20 and beyond, and this is never going to positive ever, i also checked fuel injectors, they are fine also, what is the problem with this excess fuel into engine? i am getting mileage around 7 and 8 in city
I am getting around 35 to 40 kpa manifold abs pressure at idle, is this normal? when I go to 3rd or 4th gears, its around 60 to 100 percent when accelerating, is this normal? my load is getting very high for no reason when accelerating. what could be the reason?
At idle (standard is 24- 35 kpa; , your sensor is crossing upper limit). While you are accelerating, there is no defined value, but it should come closer to idle value as soon as you are running with constant speed., however, when your engine is not running MAP value should equalise to barometric / atmospheric pressure value (14.47 psi or +-; as per altitude where your car is).
You mention 60 to 100% while driving...your MAP values doesn't come in percent...perhaps u r talking about CLV value...if yes, then its normal...while accelerator is fully pressed, you get 100% that correlates to engine load corresponding to air entering in engine (calculated thru MAP sensor values, accelerator degrees, engine speed.
40 kpa absolute pressure means your engine vacuume is at lower limit or lower than desired...(depends on at which altitude your car is operating)》less efficient. Reasons for lower vacuum (it could be any of these):-
- sensor over reading...can be verified by reading MAP value by fully pressing accelerator with eng off..it should be equal to barometric value of your car.
- Air leak in intake, in injectors ports, air hoses, EVAP valve, PCV valve etc.......it will be coupled with rpm issue at idle, may be high rpm or rpm fluctuation in most cases.
- intake or exhaust tappets clearance out.....result low compression
- ring piston worn out.....result low compression
- Head gasket leaking and causing low compression
By the way Honda engines are few of the best but inherit issue of tappets getting out....most likely, you are having tappet issue
@@AbuDujana692 its valves not sitting well for me
@@kumars172
I hope you have got them adjusted....tappet ~ valves ~ followers ~ lifters etc same thing comes with different names...
It must have improved your user experience along with engine performance.
Happy for you mate 👍
@@AbuDujana692 did a head overhaul and fixed valves and unfortunately fucked the engine. This was a already messed up engine, a lot of corrosion on the mating surface. The headgasket was fixed using an rtv, and three of the head bolts were broken and threads were rethreaded. This will never not blow a headgasket and engine is toast.