Your video's are very good at helping people just starting in audio to understand the basics of putting a system together. Your viewers should understand that a lot of speakers , even mid priced speakers ( $500-700) a pair can scale well to higher quality electronics. So you can start with a $500 integrated and upscale to a more expensive Integrated amp and get a substantial improvement in sound generally.
Compliments. As an electrical engineer with diploma, and having been around audio since the 60's, I can give you full credit for simplifying and discussing amplifier issues with accuracy. Those new (or advanced but non-technical) to audio can have confidence that what you say, even though simplified for consumption, is true. I would have encouraged you to discuss the issue of voltage output, as well as your discussion of current. But I understand things get muddy when circuit designers incorporate rail voltage switchers and followers to accommodate higher impedance loads. Perhaps you could make that understandable sometime in the future. Output voltage is important, and not just a function of Watts or amps. I know; it's tricky to make it clear. Still, deserved kudos for simple yet clear and accurate descriptions of amplifiers, of which there are so few out here, today.
Thank you Jim. I appreciate your support and words of wisdom. I wanted to keep this series as accessible as possible. One of the reasons I started this channel was to help non-technical people make informed decisions about hifi. You a right I probably need to do more videos going into details of amplifier design including switching rail voltages of class G and class H designs, the high output impedances associated with valve amplifiers, etc.. Thank you for you kind words of support. It is very much appreciated 😉👍
Output current is considered most important as the speaker is a near dead short circuit and has a modulus of impedance that may be well below the nominal impedance.
@@405line Limitations of both are important. As is the inductive and capacitive character of the load. Amplifier manufacturers refuse to describe the character of output voltages and currents; speaker manufacturers rarely disclose the character of their device's impedance. Don't ask / don't tell = don't know.
Usually what the manufacturers are trying to imply is that their output (regardless of it's actual power) has a low "internal resistance"/high damping factor by it's ability to supply "lots of current", it's the ability to generate current and cope with phase swings caused by the impedance that develops the voltage, if an amp cannot sustain output current for whatever reason then it cannot sustain it's output voltage aka clipping or distortion. That's why way back in the 80's people were able to drive Apogee Scintillas (2 ohm) with a NAD 3020 when supposedly better amps and more powerful amplifiers that were only tested with their outputs into purely resistive dummy 8 ohm load were activating their current protection circuits while the 20 or so watt NAD was able to cope with the current demands of that particular speaker. That little amp altered the course of amplifiers especially budget ones.
That is a very good exposé, learned friend. I'd add that generally we listen to a couple Watts. A triode 300B is enough in most home rooms, with reasonably efficient speakers. Not to brag, but my power amp can do 200A at the output - well into electrical welding territory, but not very long. (at 40V output to the speakers, this is 8kW and this is more than double what a 16A mains fuse can cover. The whole house is maxed at 3x 35A and the cabling to the house maxed at 3x 80A. In my country we have main mainboard fuses for "groups" of outlets that each have a 16A fuse. No domestic ring, but cascading stars.) Ampères enough to burn through very high end (expensive) speaker drivers. The Ampères indeed are very important. The capability of doubling I (Ampères) when R (Ohm) halves also, as you indicate, assuming constant U (Volt). I found here that some manufacturers underspecify at one point to be able to retain the Ampère doubling illusion at lower R values (not sure if that impacts perceived audio quality). I also observed that some high end speakers can drop their impedance to near 1 Ohm. Real high-end amplifiers can deal with that. I have imagined (wondered with prejudice) what multi amping would do to the resulting impedance when you break apart the otherwise bridged "ways" in a crossover. Where bridged means parallel loads (Overall, 2 Ohm + 2 Ohm in series gives 4 Ohm, but 2 Ohm & 2 Ohm in parallel gives 1 Ohm). And that split would increase damping and make it more frequency range specific. Relevant point here being, that a "beginner" in audio (high end aspirations) could start with multi-amping using cheaper amplifiers. Bi-amping: double the Watts, double the Ampères, double the damping factor, double control of speakers, impact mid/high less when strong bass is delivered. This may work out better than a more expensive amplifier, even when you include the doubled cable costs (bi=2-amping). You also multiplied the power supplies and if you align one amplifier to one side, say left channel to bass and right to mid-high, then a cheaper power amplifier with one power supply front end for left and right combined would give better results, I guess (provided the cheaper amplifier has power reserve in the motherboard near the transistors of each channel). A couple decades ago, British hifi magazines praised one vendor's model 400 amplifier for its ability at GBP400 to compete up to double the price when used alone. Imagine today's variant of that model 400, and now double it - would this beat a single higher end stereo power amp of 4 to 8 times the price? Possibly. Yes, you need a separate pre-amplifier (like a DAC with digital volume control ;) ) and you must double its output to go to each individual amplifier-channel so the pre must be able to handle that. There is a lot of ground to cover here and yours is an excellent start.
Hi JP dJ. Thank you buddy for sharing. I appreciate it. You are right, it can get pretty complex once you start to delve in. I wanted to keep things as simple as possible in this video. As amplifier power is something that people struggle to understand and have misconceptions about how much power they need. I have covered it below from a different angle and will no doubt have to cover it again in the future. I hope that some people will find this minimal technical explanation useful. Thank you once again 😉👍
I procured a 1986 Yamaha M-80 amplifier and 1988 B+W Matrix 802 Series 2 speakers in Immaculate shape for $550 total. Attached Mogami cable and Interconnects and I could not be happier. It has been my Plunge into a much more beautiful Audio world. I grew up going to the Chicago Symphony twice per season , and there is still nothing that can compare. Well , The London Philharmonic of course...
Tarun , great video as always. After listening to you i have changed my purchase, from integrated amp with Dac etc, to separates Denafrips , pre and amp with bluesound node 2i .Thanks for steering me along the path . Its starting to come together well .
Dear Tarun, missed a video last week, and this one hits another high note. Just want to share my own experience. Weeks ago I asked you about pairing my bronze monitor audio bookshelfs with an amp. I had an entry level marantz pm5005. You have me a great input and I decided to revamp and take the next step. I eBayed all the gear at home I wasn’t using, them went for an NAD c388, I’ve always been a big of the brand and their hypex chips are great. When going for speakers, based on your advice and my music tastes, psb towers were the natural choice. And man, that sounds amazing. With the emotiva cd transport, and my vintage technics, I’m getting detailed but warm sound. Couldn’t be happier. In a nutshell, I’d like to thank you for your previous advice on pairing, and although I took a different direction in gear, I followed the basic path you recommended, and it’s absolutely correct! Keep the great work, hopefully a review of that NAD on your hi-fi rack?
That is great Felipe. Thank you for sharing this. I am glad that it all worked out. You clearly did your homework, so I am not surprised that you got great results. NAD and PSB are two of my favourite brands as well. Happy that I could be of help in some small way. Thank you once again. I hope your system provides you with many years of listening pleasure 😉👍
A British Audiophile yes indeed. It’s been quite thrilling. I think I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been in science for many years, so I don’t believe in guessing, that’s why your channel is so good, your videos are all evidence based and honest. Most important, with a system simple but effective, revealing, I never had to use tone controls again, and the music is there. Lastly, a good system reveals the ups and downs of recordings. I grew up on all types of rock, but the vast majority sounds poorly produced and mastered, miles away from jazz recordings, which I find myself listening more and more to
Hey Tarun , thanks a lot for coming up with simple to understand video as always , and can’t thank you enough for enhancing my information about high end Audio gears .. bless you
In essence...it’s complicated...and that what makes this all so interesting and challenging. It's expensive, but a lot of fun! I currently have a Marantz 6015 AVR (110wpc @8ohms)which I use for 5.1 surround for movies and easily accessible stereo playback. I also have two other set-ups: a Yaqin 300B tube amp (18wpc @8ohms), fueled by a Woo CD Transport and Anedio DAC...AND recently I resurrected my 40-year old Bob Carver C-500 power amp (250wpc @ 8ohms! 😮) run by a Schiit Freya + tube pre amp and that is fed by a Marantz SACD 30N Network Streamer. I am using Dynaudio Contour 20 Speakers for all 3 set-ups and boy oh boy is the sound incredibly different for each of my 3 amp/source set-ups! It’s all interesting and a lot of fun! I am also considering building a Hypex Power Amp from a kit. We'll see. Thanks for all your technical videos..they make my head spin! 🤤
A very useful video for not just a newcomer to the audiophile world. I had an opportunity recently to compare in my system an Hegel H90 to a 30 year old Burmester integrated amplifier, and the latter while less forgiving of poor recording quality than the Hegel provided greater insight into, and enjoyment of, music. Perhaps one should not shy away from considering the purchase of older quality Hi-Fi.
I agree. My 22 year old Exposure XXI pre and XVIII Super monoblocks still see off the Hegel H160. Okay, they would probably retail for more like £4K - £5k if they were being built today but still...
Hi Tarun, great video as always. I switched from a 75wpc amp to one rated at 150wpc. This wasn't anything to do with wanting higher volume, more about having the larger capacity to handle transients, particularly in the bass region. The effect was that the whole sound tightened up and also seems much more airy. What I mean is, I seem to detect more of the atmospherics of the room, no doubt often created by the engineering of the recording, which helped to reveal more detail and make the different elements of the music easier to follow. I put this down to the highly non-technical theory that the amp has a better grip on the speakers. Whether this perceived improvement in the sound has anything to do with the higher power, better damping factor or just that the amp is better designed, I do not pretend to know. All I do know is that I will take a lot of convincing to move down in power on my main room system! Keep up the good work.
Very interesting video thank you for sharing. I recently purchased a used Technics integrated amp off eBay as my Heybrook pre amp stopped working so I needed something quick and cheap to put me on while I get it repaired. I could not believe how good it sounds so don’t disregard old second hand gear as there are bargains out there.
Good advice Tarun. It seems easier now to pick products than in the past. There are excellent bargains to be had in the used equipment market. High quality equipment being sold for less allows first time buyers more options. You still must do your homework and some people don’t or won’t do it and wonder why their gear doesn’t work well together. You can’t expect to have a successful journey if you don’t do your due diligence and research. That is each listener’s responsibility. If you want the best sound and a system that pleases your ears, you must put in some work. You will be happier if you do! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
A British Audiophile, thank you for inquiring. I am doing alright. This is a hard subject as it is so inclined to differing opinions. Each one must seek their own path. Helpful guidance is appreciated. This is what we come to expect from you Tarun!
I have had very good luck buying demo or last years model. A demo is probably a pretty good bet because it sounds good and has been reliable or it wouldn't be a demo, and is already broken in.
Another great video Tarun, (hope i spelt your name correctly) I would be interested as I'm Sure many others are in a bit of a rundown video of your audio setup, things like: 1. where the cables go from your speakers ( i see they disappear into the wall - do they run in the floor or wall or a duct to the amp and terminate into binding posts on the wall or directly from speaker-amp) ? 2. Do you have a dedicated electrical outlet running off its own fuse from the fuseboard or is it just the house sockets ? 3. What Hifi Rack you use? 4. Do you have any sand, speaker stand filler in tour speaker stands? 5. How fare are your speakers from the wall behind them, from eachother and from the listening chair? 6. What Speaker Cables and Interconnects are you using 7. Do you use high end power cables or jsut the supplied ones with hifi equipment. Cheers, Looking forward to your next video, and hopefully might see a video showing and answering these questions. Best Wishes James
Thank you James. You got the spelling totally right. I think my setup video answers some of those questions. th-cam.com/video/WRLexTI1ZM8/w-d-xo.html If not the answers are.. 1. Behind skirting board 2. No but use Ifi parallel mains conditioner 3. Optimum Premium Stands 4. Lead filled 5. 90 cms 6. Chord Signature interconnects, Linn K20 speaker cable 7. DIY power leads Thank you for watching 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Cheers for the answers, do you also have the same length speaker cables or is the one near the amp a lot shorter, i know some people use the same legth even for the one nearest the amp to keep signal flow the same and not pottentially have the one with shorter cable sounding louder than the other. Also what Banana plugs do you use.
Nice video on a difficult topic. I am so happy I don't have to buy a modern Amp. I would not know where to start. One thing I would do is keep the DAC separate as there is too much movement in that sector so your investment will be economically a bad one what ever you do. If you choose well, your amplifier will not be out of date any time soon. Also if you have no pre-amp or integrated amp thus relying on a DAC for input selection and volume control, you must decide up front if you will need an analogue input any time soon. And if yes, you need to think about how to do that with the most obvious solution being a DAC that will take an analogue input. PS, my integrated amp is rated at 2X40W @ 8Ohm but I think in my living room an EL84 Push Pull amp at 2X10W will be just fine.
HI Tarun, I was looking for a Power Amp a year ago. To chose one, i was reading some reviews on youtube. One brand in particular, which was highly recommended was Rotel. The Rotel Power amp RB-1582MK2 was stated as having a "warm sound". This is the one i ended up getting
When I set out to put a system together I thought it would be at least a reasonably enjoyable process. Turned out to be an exercise that I would not want to repeat. There are a small handful of specialist audio suppliers in my city, individually they are all helpful and knowledgeable, though a couple were clearly into the pressure selling angle. The biggest issue is the last point you made, synergy. How the heck do you put a system together from different sellers when you can’t borrow anything other than interconnects. Had to decide on the speakers then cart the heavy floor stand speakers around to the other sellers to audition the amps. Not something I will ever do again. Ended up with a system I am fairly happy with for about $14,000 (Aussie dollars). My suggestion to anyone would be find one seller that you can buy everything from even if you have to fly interstate to their showroom.
I feel you pain LAZY DOG. Dealers need to wake up and allow people to put things on a credit card to take home to try. If it isn’t a good fit you can return it and get a full refund with no hassle. There are some good dealers here that allow you to do that. I am getting too old to lug heavy hifi gear from dealer to dealer. That reminds me, I need to book an appointment with the chiropractor 😂
I feel for you. When I got started in component hifi in 1974 shopping for "stuff" was a snap. Living in NYC there were easily dozens of hifi shops to mix-n-match system components. And you brought your own LP's to use for testing. Some quality stores offered excellently matched systems but were willing to "chat up" whatever you preferred. I purchased my current receiver in 1979 at Tech Hifi. As it would be outta stock for three weeks, the store manager offered me a comparably powered "loaner" amp. I picked a Marantz 1090. What hifi shops do that today???
Having no way to experiment with different amp and speaker combos to achieve synergy, I learned how to navigate the used market to offset the cost of buying new gear - but the process still cost me big $$$. I am happy now with my system synergy, and am only doing tweaks at this point, just wish I had had the wits to spend more time on TH-cam watching these sorts of videos.
It is tricky these days Michael. Just have to get exposed to as much gear as you can. Shows, friends, dealers when things get back to normal. Unfortunately, there aren’t any short cuts to experience and know,edge that I am aware of. Thank you for watching 😉
6:21 Best advice ever. The very reason why a system built from separates is still superior, even today. 9:58 Haha nice one, I almost took it personally 😜
Hi Tarun just a shout out to say thanks. Hooked up my Mac mini with Roon to Denafrips Ares 2 going through the Audiolab 8300a and KEF LS50’s. Now to save for two REL subs and maybe the Audiolab power amp to match😊 Thanks so much for your help 🙏
Hi kjbiz, you have put together a really nice system. Glad to be of help. Remember two small subs are much better than one large one for 2 channel music systems 😉👍
Hello British Audiophile. I recently bought a pair of new, floor standing speakers (2 1/2 way, BR on the back, 89db, 4ohm) I placed them following the rules you’re giving here (the triangle, distance from the wall, proper listening spot etc.) After a couple of weeks, now I can tell more about the characteristics of these speakers in my system. Everything is basically fine, but, there’s one thing though I’d like to improve. There’s no problem with amount and quality of bass, but higher mids and highs are a bit blunt. What I want to do is to make them a more vibrant and stronger. Now, the thing is that my current amplifier was chosen for my previous speakers (a pair of Paradigm Studio 20v3 speakers, 8ohm, 92db which have more highs I think). The amplifier is Arcam FMJ A18, rather not very powerful but it worked with previous speakers very well. And here is my question: from your experience and perspective: Should I try and find a different, maybe more powerful/ expensive amplifier that sounds brighter? Or maybe differences between amplifiers in terms of brightness or things that I want to sound better aren’t that big and I won’t hear much of a difference? Thanks in advance for your answer.
@@_Mr_C Yeah, maybe it's not a bad idea but, you know, I'm a massive noob in electronic stuff and messing around inside my brand new speakers with new guarantee isn't an solution, either :)
Hi Tomek, I wouldn’t mess with your speakers. That is best left to people with a lot of experience and who know exactly what they are doing. I suspect you are missing the tonal balance that the Paradigms provided with your Arcam amp. Paradigm speakers tend to be bright and the Arcam is warm. Together they probably produced a balanced sound. Did I miss something, I didn’t catch which speakers you have changed to?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Hi thanks for you answer, yes you're totally right, I've changed Paradigm shelf speakers to these new, floor standing ones without changing amplifier. These are a pair of Audio Physic Classic loudspeakers. Now, how much I can improve the tonal balance by adding some clarity and vibrance to highs and higher mids by trying to find different, maybe more powerful, maybe brighter amplifier.
Thank you for the clarification Tomek. Audio Physics make some very good speakers. You could put together a very nice system around those speakers. I suspect they are highlighting shortcomings in your Arcam amp. Have you tried Naim amplification? They should give you the PRaT (pace, rhythm and timing) you need without being overly bright.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Thanks for your suggestions. I'm putting NAIM amp on my shortlist: nait 5si or xs3 They say marantz amps are quite clear and a bit bright, what do you think? cyrus 8adac or cyrus pre + power 200 - have you listened to cyrus amps? what about exposure amplifiers - you've got them in your system so you know everything about them?
I recommend these starter combinations that give a lot of value for new people entering the HIFI world: 1. Vandersteen 1ci speakers and a YBA heritage a100 integrated amp. Fantastic value and can be upgraded internally for almost no money giving again about 5x more value than what is normal. 2. The classic modern value arrangement with Hegel amp/DAC/PC streamer or cheap cd player, coupled with KEF speakers. 3. The cheapest Monitor Audio floor speaker with a cheap Roksan amp/DAC. The first and last example are extremely good value, whereas the second option is more for people wanting that midclass sound that costs a bit more, that is normally a lot more expensive with brands like Mcintosh, Pass Labs, Mark Levinson and such.
Exhaustive ...as always you are a very authoritative ( but not boring) reviewer. I really love watching your videos. Please whenever you feel up for that, suggest a nice preamp for IotaVX PA3in a "typical" analogue set up (meaning with a turntable with phono preamp and a cd transport -or a streamer- with a good DAC taking proper care of), for (i am selfish with my request, i know that...) that is a combination that i am looking for my secondary set up Thanks
That is a bit tricky Galeazzo as you want to integrate analogue and digital sources. The DAC/Power amp combo is a good option if you don’t need analogue sources. As you do, I would pick a decent integrated amplifier from a company that has a good built in DAC and phono stage and not go for the Iota PA3. The Audiolab 6000A or Arcam SA10 come to mind. These both have good DACs and phono stages built in. You don’t need a fancy CD transport if you have a CD player or Blu-ray player with a digital output which you can connect to the digital input of your amplifier. As for a streamer, now that the Auralic Aries Mini is no longer available, the Bluesound Node 2i is a good choice. Good luck and thank you for watching. I really appreciate your kind words of support 😉👍
I read a lot, and decided to buy Penaudio loudspeakers. I reached out to the designer and asked what he used for amplification. He said diy tube setups and an integrated amp from Sonneteer. So I bought a Sonneteer Orton, which worked very well with the Penaudios. I have since bought a pair of Harbeths (not on my short list, and double my budget), that better match the size of my living room. And I do not imagine I will ever be unhappy with that setup. But who knows.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 When I was shopping for new speakers, a dealer demoed some Russell Ks for me, but he also showed me the anniversary version of the Harbeth c7es3's (more expensive) . I then knew that those were the ones I wanted, so I went home and got a little drunk, and then I ordered them. Thank you for making the best TH-cam videos on Hifi.
Hello! Thank you for your detailed analysis. I really appreciate this channel. Quick question: what is your advice for this setup: speakers, turntable, amp. I would be using the turntable frequently, but also some digital sources (music CD’s). Can you use an external DAC with an integrated amp (like the Arcan SA10) to get better more stable digital to analog response or am I stuck with the DAC in the integrated amp? Or would I need a non-integrated power amp to use with an external DAC/ phono input (if there is such a thing)?
Hi GCW, the Arcam SA10 has a very good internal DAC and decent phonostage. I would use the internal ones. Check out my review of the SA10 😊 th-cam.com/video/R1rSNydhXyQ/w-d-xo.html
Before you buy a car you need to know what power you want to get, nice video/ I am interested in communication to make my English better. I am from Russia
Love the non-nonsense British understated video series. For a future video, may I suggest something? I have an integrated amp, but consider upgrading to separates. How to go about that? I know your 3x price rule for upgrades, but it gets complicated once you go from one box to several boxes. And how to you allocate the costs between power amp, pre-amp (with/without DAC), DAC, and Phonostage? So from a $2K integrated, to each component at ~ $2K? Or is a reasonable match achieved with say PA $4K, pre 1K, DAC 500, Phono 500? And if you cannot upgrade all at once what is a sensible order? Use the pre-out on the integrated to go to a new power amp, or feed the new pre-amp into the aux in of the integrated? Thanks for your consideration. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Thank you Daniel. When upgrading a fully featured integrated to separates the 3x rule would still apply you just have to try to gauge the quality of the DAC and inbuilt phono stage. Because they are all in one chassis and you are moving to separate chassis you may need to spend a little more if you were buying a one box component. Take my Hegel H160 that retailed for circa £2,500. I would consider that to be a £2,000 amplifier and a £500 DAC. I would spend £6,000 on an integrated and £1,500 on a DAC to upgrade. I could consider it to be a £800 preamp/DAC with a £1,700 Power amp. Again I would look to spend 3x on upgrades. Another example would be the Audiolab 6000A that retails for £600. I would break this down to equivalent to a £500 amplifier with a £100 phono stage and a £150 DAC. I know they don’t add up to £600 but that is the amount I would need to spend on equivalent separate components. If upgrading, I would spend 3x those figures. It is not an exact science. Just ask yourself, how much will I need to spend on an equivalent DAC, phonostage, Preamp and Poweramp and then work from there. Hope this helps 😉👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Thanks for the breakdown. So if we put an average integrated price at 100%, then an equivalent power amp is ~70% (1700/2500), DAC ~20% (500/2500), 20-25% phono, and maybe 20% preamp, getting us to 130%, where the 30% is the savings on having all in one box (or penalty for separate boxes). I may have gone a bit too low with the phono stage (Vincent PHO701 ~$700) to a Rotel RA1572 (~$2K); I needed a MC capable phono stage for the Soundsmith MIMIC* cartridge on a VPI super prime scout. The PHO701 has only 60 db gain, and have to crank up volume on integrated. If I went a bit low, that may give me an excuse to look for an upgrade more in the 25% of $2K x 3 = $1500 range. Thanks for providing a justification for gear shopping!
Great video , appreciate the knowledge. I am currenrly debating whether to upgrade my basic sony 100w receiver to Yamaha S801 as i heard it has good doc, or to get a tube amp, i mostly listen to rock/metal, some say tube amps are not ment for such genre. My speakers are Sony SSf 6000 4 way.
Hi, tube amps tend to have low power and low damping factor (bass control). This is of course a massive generalisation. Still, if you are into rock and metal I would go for a solid state (transistor based) design like the Yamaha S801. Just choose an amplifier that is a good tonal match for your speakers 😊👍
Great video Tarun. My Qinpu A1 OX integrated amp cost me £300 new around 15 years ago and has only 100 watts and is still going strong. Very punchy bass and will give amps 4 times it's price a run for the money. It's a Chinese amp and built to a very good standard. Maybe we can do a swap some day as I like the look of your Exposure amps there 😂😂😂
Thank you Steve. Good to hear from you. I may have to decline your offer as I am a little smitten with my Exposure amps. I suspect they may have to bury me with them someday 😂😂😂
Hi Tarun, thanks for all the great videos. I am rethinking my audio system. I used to have a nice system when I was still living in Holland. I took the amp (rotel) with me and bought here (Thailand) some mini pods (I used to have entry B&W but they were to big to bring). I have a place in the mountains that I will move soon permanently to. The living room is big. It has an open kitchen on the ground floor and with a view from the living room into the kitchen/dining (the living room is on the first floor). Also from the first floor to the roof is probably 6 meters and from the ground floor (kitchen/dining) to the roof is thus about 9 meters. So, I am looking into what to change with the audio. First of all, I would like to have a DAC. But thinking of an amp with dac or pre-amp wil dac and then a power amp to that. I am also considering to change the speakers to floor speakers as it should handle the whole area. I can imagine that I will do it in steps. But the question is, what should the steps be. For a DAC I am looking what is possible with bluetooth so I can more conveniently use it with a notebook / mobile. It should have RCA as I always have trouble with min headphone connections. Maybe with this whole story, you could have some new ideas to cover some part of this in a video. Anyway, I really enjoy your videos.
Hi Peter, thank you for watching and your kind words of support. I would start with choosing a pair of speakers that will work well in your room. It would like you have a large space so floorstanders will probably be the way to go. Once you have chosen your speaker you should turn your attention to the amplifier. Depending on the power and quality of your Rotel, it may be up to the job or you may have to upgrade it. Choose an amplifer that works well with the speakers you have chosen. Then turn your attention the DAC. If you are running only digital sources then you could consider a DAC with a digital volume control and remote and use it as a preamp to feed direct,y into a power amplifier. Good luck, I hope this helps. 😉👍
If I would look for speakers that would really fit with a large high room and enjoy this kind of room (don't know how to explain it), what kind of brands should I have a listen to? Here standing speakers like Elac, Q Acoustics, Paradigm, Monitor Audio, Klipsch are here for example available. I can imagine that the dynamics / warms /... per brand is very different.
Hello, long time listener. Learning a lot from you. Question, buying bigger vintage speakers soon but going in circles on what amp to purchase. Should I go with the CXA81 & V2 streamer or 6000a Play? Thank you, any help Would be appreciated.
A bit of caution on assuming an integrated amp or preamp has a phono stage merely because there is an input labelled as such, and that a ground lug is present. Especially so if buying in the used market. Some amps and preamps from the nineties had the phono stage as an option which one had to purchase a phono card to get so, if none is installed, it remains a line level input in spite of the labelling. This may be so even now for some manufacturers. Probably not too relevant for the target audience but I have come across sales staff who forget to mention this little detail to customers.
Great video the comment about buying speakers first where I live there are very very places that allow you to hear speakers I had to review speakers and my Intergrated Amp
That is a challenge JAMES. Try to get yourself to a show or just friends and acquaintances houseswhen things get back to normal. Exploit any opportunity to listen to different equipment even it isn’t in the ideal setting.
Thanks for a great video. I have a Denon AVR and Klipsch speakers. I typically listen at comfortable (sensible listening) levels, and the current setup gives me as much volume as I need. Since I'm not looking for the amp to provide more loudness, will it help make movies and music sound better?
Hi Prof Gord, a better amplification is not necessarily about power but also about control and refinement. It is more important to get the balance of the entire system right so that there are no obvious weak links. If you are happy with the sound from your amp and speakers, I wouldn’t change it. Thank you for watching and commenting 😉👍
A higher quality amp will most certainly improve the overall sound quality. For my Klipsch RF7i’s, I started with a cheapie Pioneer AVR with “supposedly” 150wpc. It could play the RF7’s loud and it sounded okay. Then I upgraded to an Arcam AVR300 with a real 120wpc, a very large toroidal transformer and a bank of good sized capacitiors. The sound quality transformation was amazing! Lots more clarity and detail, and the bass was unreal, I didn’t think non-subwoofer speakers could hit that hard and low, they can rattle the walls.
Hi jstoli996c4s, I was a case of quality over quantity. Going of specs can be misleading. Should only be used as a guide. My 75wpc Exposure amps sound more weighty and authoritative than my 150wpc Hegel H160. Of course the Hegel will play louder.
@@jstoli996c4s Thanks for this insight. So if I understand you correctly, even though you are sending more "watts" to the speaker, this doesn't necessarily result in more loudness (which I don't need)... the additional wattage helps deliver more "clarity and detail" out of the speakers (presumably at the same loudness levels)
@@profgord6957 in my case, the Arcam supposedly had less "spec" power on paper than the Pioneer, but in reality had far more REAL power. The quality of the power is what provided the clarity, detail, and much improved bass output. I try to not get caught up in the power numbers game, but it's always sexy to see bigass amps with hundreds of watts per channel that don't get used 99% of the time. Remember, even with moderate sensitivity speaker of 90dB, that's 90dB with 1 watt of continuous power, which is quite loud, to me anyways. Most of my listening is between 60-80db, which is well under 1 watt usage of the 120 wpc on tap in my Arcam amp, so under 1% utilization. Quality and quantity in equal measure :)
Hi Tarun, I think that we are the other end of the sound spectrum as we have PA systems on multi power amps, etc .However enjoyed watching your video and the world of audiophiles so going to watch some more cheers.
Extremely informative, I learn so much from you about hifi. I assume phono pre amp must be the most sensitive to interference and therefore best to have one that is standalone?
Thank you B Shah. Great to hear from you. You are right the phono pre is probably even more sensitive than the DAC. Best to get an external one for the reason you stated. Also, the phono preamp is a competitive market. There are some really good external ones from brands like Pro-Ject and Rega and you get a lot for your money. Thank you for watching and your kind words of encouragement my friend 😉👍
Hi Tarun, another great video! If possible I would love to hear your thoughts on the Vincent sv700. Very hard to find reviews online (mostly "just" some German magazines). Thank you very much
Great video. Appreciate the thoughts on DAC's being used as preamps. Question if I may: What is it that makes Audiolab a good match with Wharfedale (corporate structure aside). I am about to audition an Audiolab 6000a, and ironically it will be the 3rd and final amp I will audition for the speakers I've already decided chosen (Aperion Grand Verus III Towers). It seems I am already following your methods!
Thank you JP. The Audiolab amplifiers are fast, clean with a slightly analytical nature. The Wharfedale speakers tend to be big, full and rich sounding (exc. the Evo range). The two combine well to provide a balance sound. Good luck and thank you for watching 😉👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 In case you or anyone else is interested, I spent the day A/B'ing the Audiolab 6000a & Marantz PM8006. Your description was spot on & the 6000a is a nice amp, but the winner for me was the PM8006. More bass, more of a muscular sound, better imaging, wider soundstage, more forgiving highs, far more volume. The 6000a had more midrange clarity, more forward voices, more emphasis on highs, snares & cymbals (which I don't like), clean tuneful bass albeit less output. Preference will be music genre dependant. I thought the PM8006 was better suited for rock & metal.
As an (unneeded) addendum, I thought I'd add two more pennies to the amp power and SPL issue. As I write this on a laptop, I am listening to a truly wonderful young organist (Thomas Ospital) playing on the also wonderful organ at St. Eustache, in Paris. The recital comes through TH-cam in whatever might be their best audio. I don't have it turned up particularly loud, surely not as loud as it would be at the transept of that church. A moment ago, I reached for my SPL meter, just because I was curious how loud it actually was. Soft passages were in the 70's and crescendos just over 104 dB. My room is large, 20' x 32' v 17' high. I am sitting about 10' from each of the Klipsch RP600M's. I could carry on a conversation over the music, maybe talking closely with someone at the loud passages. But, alas, it's just me today. If I do a little math, say 105 db at 10' is approximately 110 db at 1 meter from each of the Klipsch's. The advertised sensitivity of the 600M's is about 95 dB at 1 meter at 1 Watt. Some pundits accuse Klipsch of lying about the 95, suggesting they measure more like 91 dB at 1 Watt at 1 meter. Maybe. A little math indicates that the Klipsch's are converting about 32 Watts into SPL during crescendos. If the 91 dB sensitivity is more correct, double that to about 72 Watts. Pin those numbers. Remember, this isn't terribly loud -- nowhere near the loudness might be live, in concert. But, this also isn't listening in a bedroom-sized room, perhaps 13' x 18' with 8' ceilings. So, what is my point? It is that, while it is currently fashionable to speak of how little amplifier power you might get away with, it's good to also keep in mind just how quickly power needs grow -- exponentially, with SPL, and with room size, with your distance from the speakers. and with speaker sensitivity. Non-mathematicians often lose sight that: A 3 dB increase in SPL will double the power needed A 3 dB decrease in the speaker sensitivity will double the power needed. Moving the listener 1 meter further from the speaker(s) will double the power needed. So, let's say you have the same speakers in the smaller room itemized, and you listen to the same music, at the same SPL's, at 2 meters from the speakers: 105 dB at 2 meter using the higher efficiency number will need approximately 20 Watts. That could be 10 Watts per channel -- a capacity entirely within the wheelhouse of a typical "tube" amplifier -- with no allowances for greater needs. *In all things important, size matters.* As does SPL; as does efficiency. All this, for me (and me only) resolves why I wasted money on a newer model Denon amplifier rated at 45 Watts per channel. Remember the *72* figure we pinned? I had to replace it with one at least 3 times the size -- in my case, 150 Watts/channel. That new Emotiva amp is not loafing around here. At 105 dB where I sit, it is working at upwards of half capacity. That isn't much of a margin for error -- if I play the symphony orchestra transcription of, say, Pictures at an Exhibition. That gets downright bombastic. I know; I've heard the Cleveland Orchestra do it from the 4th row. I heard parts of it with my abdomen. -Just one man's ear. [Perhaps this might be the impetus for a script on the subject in the future, Tarun. But, I am presumptuous in suggesting.]
Thank you Jim. That is some piece of music with a dynamic swing of circa 35dBs. I find most music to be less than +/- 10dBs. Your right that you are going to need some power to deal with those peaks is a large room, listening at distance even with relatively efficient speakers. I did do a video on amplifier power a while back. Let me know what you think. I will put the link below. Thank you for for the analysis Jim, I really enjoyed reading it. th-cam.com/video/N2LPcU35r50/w-d-xo.html
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I reviewed the referenced video and I believe we are entirely on the same wavelength (!). Our calculations line up rather well, so I'm pleasantly surprised that I didn't go off the rails with my method. There are two places where I think we might differ. One is the maximum SPL of music recordings versus the minimum. For pop music, I agree that the absurd "wall of sound" recordings have almost no dynamic range at all. I don't listen to pop music, so I'll leave it to others to measure that. Plus or minus 5 dB doesn't seem out of line. But serious music (pardon the term) isn't like that at all. Dynamic ranges of 40 dB or more are common. That is especially true of symphony orchestras, close up listening to live jazz, and pipe organ for example. I acquired the SPL meter just because of my curiosity about this. I borrowed the one I have, and it has a calibration sticker, so it's probably on the money. (It doesn't accurately measure below 50 Hx nor above 10 kHz, to be sure.) While "wall of sound" recordings played back at 90 dB probably would damage hearing, I suggest that listening to classical acoustic music with crescendos above 100 dB is somewhat less than what the conductor hears. I don't know any conductors of large orchestras going deaf, and many are in their 70's. So, I propose that listening levels *averaging* 85 dB with crescendos of 110 dB are realistic. (Probably not for the neighbors, but I live in the country.) The purpose of the SPL meter, in my case, is that I was weary of not having some absolute reference. Whose ears are calibrated for sound intensity? Not mine. I only know what an orchestra or an organ sound like, live. And, I know pain. So, the SPL meter tends to verify what I'm hearing, and to calibrate it somewhat. I don't use it for anything else. It's a handy device, and I plan to buy one and calibrate it against the one I've borrowed -- with the current calibration sticker. By the way, you can hear that one recording that I referenced on TH-cam. Ospital apparently loves the discrete but extensive use of 32' tone, so give your subwoofer some love; there will be some
Hi Jim, I agree with you some classical recording have big dynamic swings and will place a lot more demands on amplifiers and speakers if those crescendos are not going to sound compressed. Thank you for watching my video and sharing your experiences and wisdom my friend. I agree, you and Max would get along like a house on fire. 😉👍
Great vids always enjoy TH-cam Josef Hi-Fi That shelf with that particular lighting reminds me of an empty cardboard toilet roll once I see it I can’t erase it. Nah seriously informative down to earth much love.
Hello, Is there any chance you could provide some link to more info on this (9:46) topic ? I would be very interested in understanding how this works, how frequency changes the impedance and therefore current demands, if I understand the basic concept correctly. I heard many times that it's not just about watts, but I don't understand at low level how it works :( . Also, love the videos, great work.
Hi Flisker, I am not aware of any links as such on this topic. It is just information that I have collected over the years. Hence, my reason for doing the video. I find some, please let me know 😉
Inherited a brand new, never taken out of the box LINN Classik and LINN LK 140 from my folks. I’m looking to use this but have been out of the hifi “hobby” for some time so would welcome any advice on which speakers to pair with.
Hello Tarun. What's your opinion about an Emotiva A-100? Is this a good option to start a journey into the hi-fi world for a non audiophile? Thanks in advance.
Hii there, Thanks for making such a beautiful and informative video. But are you sure you mentioned the unit of current correctly when you were talking about the peak current??? A medium-sized would draw just 9 Ampere during normal operation given the power rating is 2000W. I heard you mentioning 40-50 Ampere peak current!
Thank you my friend. Because of the reservoir of electrical charge stored in the power supply caps it is possible for larger amps to provide that amount of current for momentary peaks 😊👍
Hi Tarun. Great video as always. I’m very interested in getting my self a Exposure integrated amp. Do you have the DAC module in your amp or do you have and external DAC and if so which model of DAC (is it the Denafrips?)
Thank you for that informative video, I am currently looking for a new amplifier but quite overwhelmed at how many there are and am struggling to narrow it down at the risk of making a costly mistake. The issue I have is my current amp is a Marantz PM7200 which is a class A amplifier and now that it’s coming up to 20 years old the sound is starting to deteriorate, I just don’t know what I would have to spend to get a modern day equivalent??? Generally the hifi stores I have spoken to say the equivalent would be an amplifier costing in the region of £1000. I don’t mind spending that sort of money but if I get it wrong I will be devastated. Any ideas of what sort of price bracket I should be looking at? Thankfully my speakers were replaced about a year ago Q Acoustics 3050i so I will be looking for something with analog inputs for my turntable (built in phono stage) and a digital input to cover some hi res files. Any help would be appreciated. Many Thanks
Hi Lundog, your PM7200 is a high bias class AB design, running the first 25 watts in class A before switching to class AB. The dealer is probably right the equivalent amplifier today would be something like the Marantz PM8006. You said it is starting to deteriorate, what is the problem? Have you thought of getting it serviced?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 well the problem started about 12 months ago I noticed that the regular hum that it had started to get louder and that it would take longer for the amp to warm up and produce the sweet sound I know and love. In the middle of all this I changed my old Nad CD player as it was having trouble loading discs and the tray was sticking. I upgraded the cd to a Marantz cd6006 and since then I have been having all sorts of issues. Now the sound has lost its warmth and musicality but gained clarity. In addition it has also developed a intermittent crackling sound which I think I have narrowed down the new CD player by running through a different amplifier it still has the crackling which only happens for the 1st 15 minutes or so but then disappears. So I have arranged for the hifi dealer to test it. I’m at my whits end with it all. Trying to establish exactly what’s at fault. I have changed the interconnects and speaker cable in case it was that. I just hope it’s not the speakers as they are only 12 months old. I suspect the change in sound characteristics is down to the new CD player and will have to sell that on as the dealer won’t take it back as it over 6 months old. I’m in a right pickle and need some help. Thanks for your time.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 yes I have enquired about getting the amp serviced there are only two companies that Marantz use in the uk. I have had a reply off one of them I will update have to send them the amp to investigate. I assume it’s a service I should be requesting?
Hi Lundog, you are welcome to call the people I use at Wilkinson Hifi. They service stuff from all over the country. Very knowledgeable and reasonable. It will cost you about £40 + courier charges to get them to look at it. As it is 20 years old I would suggest a replacement of electrolytic capacitors. Expect around £150 for a recap. Normally that will sort out the problem. If it needs more work they will let you know in the initial inspection. If it cost more than £200 to get it sorted I would probably cut your losses and get a new amp. Ask for Stuart and let him know that I pointed you towards him. He will look after you. Wilkinson Hifi are based in Lancashire and their number is 01282612901 If you prefer to go down the replacement amp route, please let me know. I can give you some recommendations.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 that’s great thanks for the recommendation and the sound advice (excuse the pun). I’m seriously considering doing both and getting something new for the listening room and moving the Marantz to the bedroom. Have you had any experience with Cyrus equipment particularly the 6dac and cd transport? I like the half size form factor and have always admired they’re stuff from many years back attending the Bristol sound and vision shows.
Hi Tarun i’m looking for a decent opinion/review on the Roksan Caspian m2 integ amp, power amp and cd player, good honest unbiased reviews seem lacking sometimes. Also which speaker would be a good choice for this set up?
Hi John, I haven’t got hold of Roksan as yet. Sent them an email but haven’t heard back. Monitor Audio speakers are from the same company. That is a good place to start your search 😊👍
@ABritishAudiophile .. Tarun, you’re a legend bro .. informative .. I’m in for a penny in for a pound with the Genelec’s 8030a with sub, ( bit of dj’ing production as and when) any advice on a preamp or combo/cd ( thought of the freya or the quad atera) also a baby pre .. got the mojo for the phone but doubles up sometimes .. would appreciate your input .. kind Regards W
Hello from NZ. What are your thoughts regarding older amps (70s ) and newer ones. I do hear a lot of listeners do like older style amps for their richer, warmer sound qualities. That can really make speaker selection somewhat tricky for sure. As a footnote I have a pair of 23 year old B&W P6 floor standers and a 5 Year old Rotel intergrated amp RA 1570. I think I might have got lucky , they seem to work realy well together. Yes I agree, compnents , cables ETC sure can improve or ruin a system but thats another rats nest for another time. cheers Tarun, from Ken.
I haven’t heard any 70s amps for a long time. Electronics have advanced a great deal since then but the essential design of a Class AB amplifier has not changed that much. I am sure there are some real gems out there from that period. I did a video on cables, you may want to check it out on my channel. Thank you for watching and commenting Kenneth 😊
Last weekend, I managed to get a dealer who agreed to let me bring in my 28 years old Cyrus 1 amplifier to demo against a new Rega Brio he was selling. Despite the fact that the new Rega was rated higher on wattage output than my old Cyrus, the difference was hardly noticeable at my listening volume, unless you are fully mindful. I decided to get the new Rega, since my old Amplifier is ageing .. Still a happy budget audiophile till today..
Hi C L K, the Cyrus One is a legendary amp. Set the benchmark for what could be achieved for the the money at the time. The Rega Brio is also an excellent amp. You could argue that it is it’s spiritual successor. Hope it gives you many years of listening pleasure. Thank you for watching and sharing 😉
Another great video. I noticed that you've tuned your amplifier for more music listening. If I wanted to do something like 7.1.4 theater set up and also listen to music, do I need two amplifiers, or should I just invest in one unit that can do both? It seems to me a lot of good amplifiers really focus on the stereo component. Also, if I have to get two amplifiers - can I share the pre-amp and DAC?
Hi Richard, it really depends on what you want to spend. The issue is that the AV receiver isn’t really designed to be optimised for music listening. It does an okay job but I wouldn’t have it in the signal path of a high end system. You can get hifi amps with HT bypass that effectively runs the signal straight from your AV receiver to the power amp section of the hifi amp and disables the hifi preamp. That way you don’t have to mess with multiple volume controls. It is a good compromise.
Tarun, Thanks for your advice. I researched further on this and this approach will definitely work, although it will be a littler fiddly to get all the right peices. I’m wondering if you’re familiar with a technology called WISA which is supposed to do away with the need for AV receivers and amps altogether. I was potentially hoping to use Buchardt active speakers as my front three and I’ll buy cheaper rear and heights... I’m a little cautious as this seems to be a brand new technology. In particular: - there don’t seem to be many WiSA ceiling speakers - the cost of 6-8 WiSA speakers for the ceiling etc may rival cost of amplifier anyway - manufacturers may not support the format. Do you have any thoughts on this ? Since im constructing right now, I could just get all the wiring done now, but I’m hearing some good reviews for the A500/700s and think it could be quite a good system for someone just starting out. Would love to hear what you think of this ?
Hey Tarun I have the yamaha rx-a3080 and the klipsch rp-8000f as speakers which amplifier do i need to play stereo music maybe you have some suggestions brands four a amp . and how many watts do i need for this. thank you grz : ben (Belgium.)
I Am very much new to amplifier and speakers of this level. I bought Yamaha rx-a3080 and Klipsch RP 8000F + klipsch 100 SW Just this week. I Am reading through a lot of stuff online about best settings to get the best out of the system. I agree that what I like is the best sound for me, but Just to have some basics clear, I need some help . I Am using the whole system for music listening now. Later some movies or TV listening . I read about LFE, LPF etc. and tried to play with setting the mains to Large/ Small LFE/LFE+Mains and LPF - 120Hz but I do not seem to feel any difference. I was expecting klipsch 100 SW to explode my room but its still very nominal. Could you please help me out with some basic settings.
@@bendanielle it isn’t really the area I focus on Ben as l stick with two channel listening these days. The RP8000F is a large speaker and the final setting are going to be room and use case dependent. I would start with front LCR channels set to small at the LFE crossover point at 80Hz. That should get you in the right ballpark and you can then tweak from there. Good luck 😊
Thank you once more for making complicated topics understandable for a dummy like me. Amp spec ratings. Why is this not standard?! I have a pair of Magnepans, which I love, but the information around amp pairing is so confusing and often contradictory. Thank you for clarifying once and for all. It's not watts needed, that's only half the story. It's current, measured in amps.
Thank you for watching and your support Craig. Excellent synopsis, I couldn’t have said it better. The max current capability of an amplifier is at least as important as the power rating 😊👍
Hi Tarun Thanks for your overview of amplifiers. Very interesting even though I’ve been listening to and buying hi-fi since 1973. I discovered Naim in 1989 and only owned Naim amps and speakers until recently, fronted by an LP12. I made a decision to ‘start again’ with my system and move away from Naim (long story). I listen to vinyl only. I used a superb Well Tempered Versalex with a Dynavector 17D3. My speakers are also American and they’re Revel F260 floorstanders. These are quite big full range speakers used in a smallish listening room. Amp duties are currently being undertaken by a (stop-gap) Leema Pulse (80 wpc) or my old Sony 870ES (120 wpc). Can you suggest an amp or two for me to dem under £3k. I have a superb phono stage (Nighthawk from the USA) and a very good headphone amp (Fidelity Audio) in place.
@@PeterJones-yq1xw the obvious choice would be an Arcam SA30 as it is from the same stable but I would also look at... Musical Fidelity M6Si Canor Audio AI 2.10 Exposure 3010S2D and 3010 monoblocks
Thank you so much for taking the time for your suggestions for audition. I will investigate and audition them all. I’m also looking at Rega offerings. It’s good to have some experience input. I’ll be sure to let you know how I get on. Kind Regards, Peter.
Thoughts on the McIntosh MA9000 integrated amplifier..? I am on a budget and also limited for space, so I cannot pull off two separate units.. I enjoy your videos very much, keep them coming .. as a new audiophile I'm learning a lot still.
Thank you SJ. I have been doing this for 30 years and I am still learning all the time too. I haven’t had a listen to the MA9000 but McIntosh make good stuff if you enjoy their sound signature. They have traditionally had a particular sound as opposed to going for broad appeal. I would start with a pair of speakers that you like and work well in your room. Then put together a system around that. Thank you for watching and I greatly appreciate your support 😉👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I made a step from just my Arcam A39. And purchased 3010 mono-blocks. I’m using the Arcam as a pre-amp for the time being until I get a Exposure Pre-amp
Curious, how would you describe your Hegel h160 sound characteristics? Warm - Neutral - Cool and apply the same to Bass - midbass - lower to upper mids and highs? I recently demoed an amp I thought presented too much upper mids and highs in relation to Bass through lower midrange and I found the Hegel to be warmer although it has been described as cooler side of neutral? I have more analytical speakers though.
I would describe the Hegel H160 as on the slightly cool side of neutral. The bass is fast, clean but lean, the mids are a little on the dry side of neutral, beautiful extension on the treble. Overall the amplifier is on the analytical side. Good amplifier with warm, rich and full sounding speakers.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to figure out how what I hear can be described. I have my h160 on a set of Focal 807Ws and recently tried the Sound SA Artist 200IA integrated. While far less cost than the hegel, it was also far less capable. I found it a bit bright and unbalanced with weaker bass and low mids compared to upper mids to highs. Not to mention the overall SQ. Sent it back. On Quad S2s, the Soundartist gave them some energy/excitement with music at the expense of SQ while the Hegel made the Quads very accurate and focused but presented a very 2D soundstage which was far less engaging to listen to. I had hoped the Quads would make an alternative to the Focals, not sure but will give them some more time. I had once considered an Audiolab 8300A as a lighter replacement as the h160 is heavy and overkill for my speakers, but it does bring out the best they have to offer. I guess that's what it's all about. I am also considering a smaller standmount (such as the Quads) but I really like the presentation of the Focals. Not as focused or perhaps natural as the Quads for voice and acoustic but so very engaging at an emotional level. Ideally I wanted a lighter amp and smaller standmounts but not at too much of an expense of SQ and I don't want to spend double the money at this point on higher end speakers. I need speakers that perform well at lower volumes. I also wasn't sure how close the Audiolab 8300A was in SQ and at the time is it was heavily discounted, now at full retail but I still have an eye on it. The What HIFI review stated they were not the "most engaging around" but I think the reviewers tend to favor brighter presentations. I do not find the Hegel h160 bright at all. So, I would consider the Audiolab if it were close in overall ability, if not I am happy with the Hegel...I don't move it around much anyhow. I only listen at low to moderate volumes but I don't think there are many integrated amps that can do what the h160 does so well at under or around $1K US. Perhaps I could find an alternate at a higher price but it wouldn't make economic sense to me. The next venture is in trying some dacs for better sound however marginal it may or may not be. I find the Focals more or less giving a 3D soundstage at times and I want to see if I can better that experience. Interestingly enough, the hegel isn't good for all standmounts. I have small Triangle Zetas that the hegel grips so much it muddles the midrange. Far better results with a class D for that one. So system matching matters. Thanks again. If only I could win the lottery.
Nice video, I was surprised to find "synergies" amidst all the engineering talk. :) It would be so awesome to see a video that demystifies this concept (what are the causes of the descrepancies that have to exist for there to be synergies), and how "much" do they matter. It would also be cool with some elaboration on how to figure out "synergies" if you have older/rarer speakers or amplifiers. For example, I have a pair of JBL Ti10k, and I think it's one of the least present-on-the-internet speakers. Hardly any tests, reviews or data, aside from the original data sheet. I'd probably have better luck finding a suitable amp for the JBL Paragon. When you then also factor in that I'm looking for a power amplifier and shopping for used deals, it becomes extremely difficult (to me, atleast) to wrap my head around what will work well with the speakers, and what wont. And just on point to what you're saying; the buying experience is so different today, there are fewer stores where you can go and listen to the kit, fewer that will loan the device or have a sensible return policy that allows you to actually audition it, etc. And when shopping used, obviously it's even worse.
Have you tried studio monitors? Good ones from Adam or Neumann for example? Studio monitors are mostly way better than hifi speakers but not always as expensive Greetings from Germany
Great to hear from you Ruben. I have heard good things about the Adam audio active speakers, not so familiar with the Neumann speakers but have heard the name. I have the AE1 actives in for review and do plan to review more actives. Would be worth looking into. Thank you for the suggestion 😉
Hi SJ, the benefits of XLR are the common mode rejection. This is useful in eliminating noise picked up by the cable. Useful for long interconnect runs 5m+. For shorter runs on most equipment I would stick with the RCA. Most equipment has an XLR connection by adding an extra stage at the end of it’s output, extending the signal path. The exception is a fully balanced DAC feeding a fully balanced Preamp. That is rare other than on very high end gear as it requires twice the circuitry. Good question 😉
I need some advice. I have a Naim Uniti Star, PMC Twenty5.23i speakers, Chord Shawline speaker cable, MCRu mains lead and Isotek Genesis mains block. What I want to know is, what colour sofa should I buy to sit on to listen to it? :-)
Have to ask, how are you keeping that rack of yours cool? Based on what is in there, a few pieces run on the hot side. It's not always the equipment that needs to be discussed, time needs to spent on how you look after what you have.
Hi John, they are all on individual shelves normally. Sometimes I have to love things around based on what I am reviewing and having to breathe space for. I don’t have anything that runs particularly hot. Maybe the Chord Mojo when it is being charged and used at the same time. In any case the ventilation is sufficient. Good question for people to consider. Thank you for asking 😉👍
What are your views on component break in? I have a Class D integrated and I seem to be having a hard time getting the sound to settle and fully open up. The amp is rated at 200 wpc and speakers are 15ohms.
Hi Din, some components need more break in than others. It just varies according to design, I suspect you have a synergy issue with your amp and speakers. Some class D amps are not happy with speakers that have big dips in the impedance load.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I understand that the imepdance can affect the sonic nature of some class D's. Well the manufacturer recommends at least 600hrs. It's had more than enough run time... A few weeks ago it started sounding off. L/R imaging felt skewed. Sounded edgy with no weight to the sound. I was thinking it was broken. Almost seems that being a big amp in a small room with moderate volume, it's not pushing the amp hard enough. Have found a way to run the amp without having to connect the speakers by using LEDs. So have put more load and been running it continous. It works. Finally feel like I'm getting somewhere. Soundstage has started to fill in with more depth. Before there was good detail and forward projection but sounded a bit flat. Not entirely sure what's going on but has been a long painful experience.
Hi Din, sounds like there is a fault with the amp. You shouldn’t need to connect LEDs to it to increase the load. That is quite unusual. Have I misunderstood something ?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 No, what I mean is I connected a led instead of the speakers to the speaker cables in order to put a signal through the amp. The led works to discharge the energy from the amp output. That way I can leave the amp running without generating any noise. Does work. Every so often when I reconnect the speakers. I can hear a change or an improvement. The system can sound quite good. But never really felt the amp sounded like a 5k amp.
Hi shemaya, what sound characteristic are you looking for, warm, neutral, bright? Also it depends on where you live. Most components are better value in the country of origin.
Hi 405line, I Lomé Musical Fidelity stuff too. Not sure what is happening to the company as the founder Anthony Michaelson sold it to Heinz Lichtenegger of Pro-Ject. Hopefully some new gear coming out soon.
Thanks for this - I am trying to decide on a new amp setup for my listening space and am having a hard time deciding what I want - doesn't help my budget is only about $500 cdn...........
Other than speaker set up, that is the hardest thing to get right Derek. The speaker amp combination. Take your time and try out different amplifiers. You will know when you have got the right one 😉
Thanks Tarun, I am a beginner and wanted to start a set up. Only streaming content through tv or mobile will be played. Currently a Sony 5.1 is on duty and want improve. I liked two DAC smsl m200 & topping d50s. Not decided on amplifier and speaker. Apart from this what should I consider? Budget is $1000. Would be nice with some model recommendations.
sorry, it’s a 5.1 sound bar with inbuilt amp. Model Sony HT -RT3. Please guide me if by adding few stuff will help or dispose the current one and start building a new one
Hi satyapriya, I will try to point you in a general direction but need some information. Do you want a 5.1 surround system or a 2 channel system? How big is your room? How far away from you speakers will you be sitting? What kind of music do you mostly to listen to?
Hi satyapriya, it depends on what is better value where you live. For example U.K. manufactured gear is better value in the U.K. and US manufactured great better value in the US. You mentioned dollars so if you are in the US... Amps I would consider: Iota VX SA3, NAD C338, PS Audio Sprout. Speakers: Elac Debut reference, PSB Alpha P5, Klipsch RPM 600. They all sound different but this is a good shortlist to audition to try and get the sound you want.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 thanks for your reply. I have a c326bee and C356bee to test but I can hardly hear any difference 😅 So I guess the 326bee is fine!
@@tess6499 if you can’t hear a difference with your speakers and you are not planning to upgrade them in the future, then go for the most cost effective option 😉
I forgot to mention, I only actually need 1 input which is notebook or phone. I don't connect a tv or anything else. I used to like the concept of things like Cyrus though at that time I liked the sound of the Rotel more. Even it has all the extra options that I didn't need.
Hi Satjinder, they both seem like decent AVRs for the price but I haven’t done an A/B. I am pretty much a 2 channel guy these days. Sorry I can’t be of more help 😉
Hi Texan, the type of harmonic distortion is more important than the amount. 2nd adds warmth and richness, 3rd not so nice, higher orders even worse. Of course, even the 2nd needs to be kept in check.
Planar speakers have a particular type of distortion that may or may not be of concern as well. A planar speaker does not move as one diaphragm as people think, but more as a very large number of individual little local movements. Think about a picture of the ocean and the millions of individual waves. Some don’t notice it and some do.
Your video's are very good at helping people just starting in audio to understand the basics of putting a system together. Your viewers should understand that a lot of speakers , even mid priced speakers ( $500-700) a pair can scale well to higher quality electronics. So you can start with a $500 integrated and upscale to a more expensive Integrated amp and get a substantial improvement in sound generally.
Thank you Donald. I totally agree. I wanted to keep these explanations as simple as possible. That is why I didn’t get into it 😊👍
Compliments. As an electrical engineer with diploma, and having been around audio since the 60's, I can give you full credit for simplifying and discussing amplifier issues with accuracy. Those new (or advanced but non-technical) to audio can have confidence that what you say, even though simplified for consumption, is true.
I would have encouraged you to discuss the issue of voltage output, as well as your discussion of current. But I understand things get muddy when circuit designers incorporate rail voltage switchers and followers to accommodate higher impedance loads. Perhaps you could make that understandable sometime in the future. Output voltage is important, and not just a function of Watts or amps. I know; it's tricky to make it clear.
Still, deserved kudos for simple yet clear and accurate descriptions of amplifiers, of which there are so few out here, today.
Thank you Jim. I appreciate your support and words of wisdom. I wanted to keep this series as accessible as possible. One of the reasons I started this channel was to help non-technical people make informed decisions about hifi. You a right I probably need to do more videos going into details of amplifier design including switching rail voltages of class G and class H designs, the high output impedances associated with valve amplifiers, etc.. Thank you for you kind words of support. It is very much appreciated 😉👍
Output current is considered most important as the speaker is a near dead short circuit and has a modulus of impedance that may be well below the nominal impedance.
@@405line Limitations of both are important. As is the inductive and capacitive character of the load. Amplifier manufacturers refuse to describe the character of output voltages and currents; speaker manufacturers rarely disclose the character of their device's impedance. Don't ask / don't tell = don't know.
Usually what the manufacturers are trying to imply is that their output (regardless of it's actual power) has a low "internal resistance"/high damping factor by it's ability to supply "lots of current", it's the ability to generate current and cope with phase swings caused by the impedance that develops the voltage, if an amp cannot sustain output current for whatever reason then it cannot sustain it's output voltage aka clipping or distortion. That's why way back in the 80's people were able to drive Apogee Scintillas (2 ohm) with a NAD 3020 when supposedly better amps and more powerful amplifiers that were only tested with their outputs into purely resistive dummy 8 ohm load were activating their current protection circuits while the 20 or so watt NAD was able to cope with the current demands of that particular speaker. That little amp altered the course of amplifiers especially budget ones.
Thank you 405line. My friend had a NAD 3020 up until recently. It fully deserves it’s legendary status. Thank you for sharing 😉
That is a very good exposé, learned friend.
I'd add that generally we listen to a couple Watts. A triode 300B is enough in most home rooms, with reasonably efficient speakers.
Not to brag, but my power amp can do 200A at the output - well into electrical welding territory, but not very long. (at 40V output to the speakers, this is 8kW and this is more than double what a 16A mains fuse can cover. The whole house is maxed at 3x 35A and the cabling to the house maxed at 3x 80A. In my country we have main mainboard fuses for "groups" of outlets that each have a 16A fuse. No domestic ring, but cascading stars.) Ampères enough to burn through very high end (expensive) speaker drivers. The Ampères indeed are very important. The capability of doubling I (Ampères) when R (Ohm) halves also, as you indicate, assuming constant U (Volt). I found here that some manufacturers underspecify at one point to be able to retain the Ampère doubling illusion at lower R values (not sure if that impacts perceived audio quality). I also observed that some high end speakers can drop their impedance to near 1 Ohm. Real high-end amplifiers can deal with that. I have imagined (wondered with prejudice) what multi amping would do to the resulting impedance when you break apart the otherwise bridged "ways" in a crossover. Where bridged means parallel loads (Overall, 2 Ohm + 2 Ohm in series gives 4 Ohm, but 2 Ohm & 2 Ohm in parallel gives 1 Ohm). And that split would increase damping and make it more frequency range specific. Relevant point here being, that a "beginner" in audio (high end aspirations) could start with multi-amping using cheaper amplifiers. Bi-amping: double the Watts, double the Ampères, double the damping factor, double control of speakers, impact mid/high less when strong bass is delivered. This may work out better than a more expensive amplifier, even when you include the doubled cable costs (bi=2-amping). You also multiplied the power supplies and if you align one amplifier to one side, say left channel to bass and right to mid-high, then a cheaper power amplifier with one power supply front end for left and right combined would give better results, I guess (provided the cheaper amplifier has power reserve in the motherboard near the transistors of each channel).
A couple decades ago, British hifi magazines praised one vendor's model 400 amplifier for its ability at GBP400 to compete up to double the price when used alone. Imagine today's variant of that model 400, and now double it - would this beat a single higher end stereo power amp of 4 to 8 times the price? Possibly.
Yes, you need a separate pre-amplifier (like a DAC with digital volume control ;) ) and you must double its output to go to each individual amplifier-channel so the pre must be able to handle that.
There is a lot of ground to cover here and yours is an excellent start.
Hi JP dJ. Thank you buddy for sharing. I appreciate it. You are right, it can get pretty complex once you start to delve in. I wanted to keep things as simple as possible in this video. As amplifier power is something that people struggle to understand and have misconceptions about how much power they need. I have covered it below from a different angle and will no doubt have to cover it again in the future. I hope that some people will find this minimal technical explanation useful. Thank you once again 😉👍
I procured a 1986 Yamaha M-80 amplifier and 1988 B+W Matrix 802 Series 2 speakers in Immaculate shape for $550 total. Attached Mogami cable and Interconnects and I could not be happier. It has been my Plunge into a much more beautiful Audio world. I grew up going to the Chicago Symphony twice per season , and there is still nothing that can compare. Well , The London Philharmonic of course...
Cool 😎👍
Tarun , great video as always.
After listening to you i have changed my purchase, from integrated amp with Dac etc, to separates Denafrips , pre and amp with bluesound node 2i .Thanks for steering me along the path .
Its starting to come together well .
Thank you Mark. That is great to hear. I hope it all works out well. 😉👍
Dear Tarun, missed a video last week, and this one hits another high note. Just want to share my own experience. Weeks ago I asked you about pairing my bronze monitor audio bookshelfs with an amp. I had an entry level marantz pm5005. You have me a great input and I decided to revamp and take the next step. I eBayed all the gear at home I wasn’t using, them went for an NAD c388, I’ve always been a big of the brand and their hypex chips are great. When going for speakers, based on your advice and my music tastes, psb towers were the natural choice. And man, that sounds amazing. With the emotiva cd transport, and my vintage technics, I’m getting detailed but warm sound. Couldn’t be happier. In a nutshell, I’d like to thank you for your previous advice on pairing, and although I took a different direction in gear, I followed the basic path you recommended, and it’s absolutely correct! Keep the great work, hopefully a review of that NAD on your hi-fi rack?
That is great Felipe. Thank you for sharing this. I am glad that it all worked out. You clearly did your homework, so I am not surprised that you got great results. NAD and PSB are two of my favourite brands as well. Happy that I could be of help in some small way. Thank you once again. I hope your system provides you with many years of listening pleasure 😉👍
A British Audiophile yes indeed. It’s been quite thrilling. I think I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been in science for many years, so I don’t believe in guessing, that’s why your channel is so good, your videos are all evidence based and honest.
Most important, with a system simple but effective, revealing, I never had to use tone controls again, and the music is there.
Lastly, a good system reveals the ups and downs of recordings. I grew up on all types of rock, but the vast majority sounds poorly produced and mastered, miles away from jazz recordings, which I find myself listening more and more to
You and me both Felipe 😉
Well done. I am a life long audiophile and I enjoy your perspective. Very practical and thought out. Thank you.
Thank you eholmwood 😉👍
Hey Tarun , thanks a lot for coming up with simple to understand video as always , and can’t thank you enough for enhancing my information about high end Audio gears .. bless you
Thank you Atri. Great to hear from you. I appreciate you watching and thank you for you kind and generous words of support 😉👍
In essence...it’s complicated...and that what makes this all so interesting and challenging. It's expensive, but a lot of fun! I currently have a Marantz 6015 AVR (110wpc @8ohms)which I use for 5.1 surround for movies and easily accessible stereo playback. I also have two other set-ups: a Yaqin 300B tube amp (18wpc @8ohms), fueled by a Woo CD Transport and Anedio DAC...AND recently I resurrected my 40-year old Bob Carver C-500 power amp (250wpc @ 8ohms! 😮) run by a Schiit Freya + tube pre amp and that is fed by a Marantz SACD 30N Network Streamer.
I am using Dynaudio Contour 20 Speakers for all 3 set-ups and boy oh boy is the sound incredibly different for each of my 3 amp/source set-ups! It’s all interesting and a lot of fun! I am also considering building a Hypex Power Amp from a kit. We'll see. Thanks for all your technical videos..they make my head spin! 🤤
Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences Bob 😊👍
Thanks Tarun, a well-packaged and instructive video. Very useful, as always. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Marc. Much appreciated 😉👍
A very useful video for not just a newcomer to the audiophile world.
I had an opportunity recently to compare in my system an Hegel H90 to a 30 year old Burmester integrated amplifier, and the latter while less forgiving of poor recording quality than the Hegel provided greater insight into, and enjoyment of, music.
Perhaps one should not shy away from considering the purchase of older quality Hi-Fi.
I agree. My 22 year old Exposure XXI pre and XVIII Super monoblocks still see off the Hegel H160. Okay, they would probably retail for more like £4K - £5k if they were being built today but still...
Hi Tarun, great video as always. I switched from a 75wpc amp to one rated at 150wpc. This wasn't anything to do with wanting higher volume, more about having the larger capacity to handle transients, particularly in the bass region.
The effect was that the whole sound tightened up and also seems much more airy. What I mean is, I seem to detect more of the atmospherics of the room, no doubt often created by the engineering of the recording, which helped to reveal more detail and make the different elements of the music easier to follow.
I put this down to the highly non-technical theory that the amp has a better grip on the speakers. Whether this perceived improvement in the sound has anything to do with the higher power, better damping factor or just that the amp is better designed, I do not pretend to know. All I do know is that I will take a lot of convincing to move down in power on my main room system!
Keep up the good work.
Excellent video, My Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated amp has 75 amp current it's a cracking amp had it for fifteen years never missed a beat.
I have heard that amp. It is rather special. Thank you for watching and commenting 😉👍
Very interesting video thank you for sharing. I recently purchased a used Technics integrated amp off eBay as my Heybrook pre amp stopped working so I needed something quick and cheap to put me on while I get it repaired. I could not believe how good it sounds so don’t disregard old second hand gear as there are bargains out there.
Thank you Tony. I appreciate you watching and sharing your experiences 😊👍
Good advice Tarun. It seems easier now to pick products than in the past. There are excellent bargains to be had in the used equipment market. High quality equipment being sold for less allows first time buyers more options. You still must do your homework and some people don’t or won’t do it and wonder why their gear doesn’t work well together. You can’t expect to have a successful journey if you don’t do your due diligence and research. That is each listener’s responsibility. If you want the best sound and a system that pleases your ears, you must put in some work. You will be happier if you do! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
Sensible advice as always Mark. Great to hear from you buddy. I hope you are well 😉👍
A British Audiophile, thank you for inquiring. I am doing alright. This is a hard subject as it is so inclined to differing opinions. Each one must seek their own path. Helpful guidance is appreciated. This is what we come to expect from you Tarun!
Thank you Mark. Much appreciated 😉👍
I have had very good luck buying demo or last years model. A demo is probably a pretty good bet because it sounds good and has been reliable or it wouldn't be a demo, and is already broken in.
Another great video Tarun, (hope i spelt your name correctly) I would be interested as I'm Sure many others are in a bit of a rundown video of your audio setup, things like:
1. where the cables go from your speakers ( i see they disappear into the wall - do they run in the floor or wall or a duct to the amp and terminate into binding posts on the wall or directly from speaker-amp) ?
2. Do you have a dedicated electrical outlet running off its own fuse from the fuseboard or is it just the house sockets ?
3. What Hifi Rack you use?
4. Do you have any sand, speaker stand filler in tour speaker stands?
5. How fare are your speakers from the wall behind them, from eachother and from the listening chair?
6. What Speaker Cables and Interconnects are you using
7. Do you use high end power cables or jsut the supplied ones with hifi equipment.
Cheers, Looking forward to your next video, and hopefully might see a video showing and answering these questions.
Best Wishes
James
Thank you James. You got the spelling totally right. I think my setup video answers some of those questions.
th-cam.com/video/WRLexTI1ZM8/w-d-xo.html
If not the answers are..
1. Behind skirting board
2. No but use Ifi parallel mains conditioner
3. Optimum Premium Stands
4. Lead filled
5. 90 cms
6. Chord Signature interconnects, Linn K20 speaker cable
7. DIY power leads
Thank you for watching 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Cheers for the answers, do you also have the same length speaker cables or is the one near the amp a lot shorter, i know some people use the same legth even for the one nearest the amp to keep signal flow the same and not pottentially have the one with shorter cable sounding louder than the other. Also what Banana plugs do you use.
Hi @@Vintagesoundz14, same length both sides is a must. I use Mitchel banana plugs. Thank you for watching 😊
Another good video Tarun. You don't need great power but it's good to know it can drive most speakers with enough head room to deal with peaks.
I agree. Thank you filofilo 😉👍
Nice video on a difficult topic. I am so happy I don't have to buy a modern Amp. I would not know where to start. One thing I would do is keep the DAC separate as there is too much movement in that sector so your investment will be economically a bad one what ever you do. If you choose well, your amplifier will not be out of date any time soon. Also if you have no pre-amp or integrated amp thus relying on a DAC for input selection and volume control, you must decide up front if you will need an analogue input any time soon. And if yes, you need to think about how to do that with the most obvious solution being a DAC that will take an analogue input.
PS, my integrated amp is rated at 2X40W @ 8Ohm but I think in my living room an EL84 Push Pull amp at 2X10W will be just fine.
Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences Hugo 😉
HI Tarun, I was looking for a Power Amp a year ago. To chose one, i was reading some reviews on youtube. One brand in particular, which was highly recommended was Rotel. The Rotel Power amp RB-1582MK2 was stated as having a "warm sound". This is the one i ended up getting
That is great AR. I haven’t tried any recent Rotel products 😊👍
When I set out to put a system together I thought it would be at least a reasonably enjoyable process. Turned out to be an exercise that I would not want to repeat. There are a small handful of specialist audio suppliers in my city, individually they are all helpful and knowledgeable, though a couple were clearly into the pressure selling angle. The biggest issue is the last point you made, synergy. How the heck do you put a system together from different sellers when you can’t borrow anything other than interconnects. Had to decide on the speakers then cart the heavy floor stand speakers around to the other sellers to audition the amps. Not something I will ever do again. Ended up with a system I am fairly happy with for about $14,000 (Aussie dollars). My suggestion to anyone would be find one seller that you can buy everything from even if you have to fly interstate to their showroom.
I feel you pain LAZY DOG. Dealers need to wake up and allow people to put things on a credit card to take home to try. If it isn’t a good fit you can return it and get a full refund with no hassle. There are some good dealers here that allow you to do that. I am getting too old to lug heavy hifi gear from dealer to dealer. That reminds me, I need to book an appointment with the chiropractor 😂
Good post Lazy Dog
I feel for you. When I got started in component hifi in 1974 shopping for "stuff" was a snap. Living in NYC there were easily dozens of hifi shops to mix-n-match system components. And you brought your own LP's to use for testing. Some quality stores offered excellently matched systems but were willing to "chat up" whatever you preferred. I purchased my current receiver in 1979 at Tech Hifi. As it would be outta stock for three weeks, the store manager offered me a comparably powered "loaner" amp. I picked a Marantz 1090. What hifi shops do that today???
Having no way to experiment with different amp and speaker combos to achieve synergy, I learned how to navigate the used market to offset the cost of buying new gear - but the process still cost me big $$$. I am happy now with my system synergy, and am only doing tweaks at this point, just wish I had had the wits to spend more time on TH-cam watching these sorts of videos.
It is tricky these days Michael. Just have to get exposed to as much gear as you can. Shows, friends, dealers when things get back to normal. Unfortunately, there aren’t any short cuts to experience and know,edge that I am aware of. Thank you for watching 😉
6:21 Best advice ever. The very reason why a system built from separates is still superior, even today.
9:58 Haha nice one, I almost took it personally 😜
Thank you for watching and commenting Qorax 😉
Hi Tarun just a shout out to say thanks. Hooked up my Mac mini with Roon to Denafrips Ares 2 going through the Audiolab 8300a and KEF LS50’s. Now to save for two REL subs and maybe the Audiolab power amp to match😊 Thanks so much for your help 🙏
Hi kjbiz, you have put together a really nice system. Glad to be of help. Remember two small subs are much better than one large one for 2 channel music systems 😉👍
A British Audiophile t5 or t7 that’s the next question
kjbiz it depends on the size of your room.
Hello British Audiophile. I recently bought a pair of new, floor standing speakers (2 1/2 way, BR on the back, 89db, 4ohm) I placed them following the rules you’re giving here (the triangle, distance from the wall, proper listening spot etc.) After a couple of weeks, now I can tell more about the characteristics of these speakers in my system. Everything is basically fine, but, there’s one thing though I’d like to improve. There’s no problem with amount and quality of bass, but higher mids and highs are a bit blunt. What I want to do is to make them a more vibrant and stronger. Now, the thing is that my current amplifier was chosen for my previous speakers (a pair of Paradigm Studio 20v3 speakers, 8ohm, 92db which have more highs I think). The amplifier is Arcam FMJ A18, rather not very powerful but it worked with previous speakers very well. And here is my question: from your experience and perspective: Should I try and find a different, maybe more powerful/ expensive amplifier that sounds brighter? Or maybe differences between amplifiers in terms of brightness or things that I want to sound better aren’t that big and I won’t hear much of a difference? Thanks in advance for your answer.
@@_Mr_C Yeah, maybe it's not a bad idea but, you know, I'm a massive noob in electronic stuff and messing around inside my brand new speakers with new guarantee isn't an solution, either :)
Hi Tomek, I wouldn’t mess with your speakers. That is best left to people with a lot of experience and who know exactly what they are doing. I suspect you are missing the tonal balance that the Paradigms provided with your Arcam amp. Paradigm speakers tend to be bright and the Arcam is warm. Together they probably produced a balanced sound. Did I miss something, I didn’t catch which speakers you have changed to?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Hi thanks for you answer, yes you're totally right, I've changed Paradigm shelf speakers to these new, floor standing ones without changing amplifier. These are a pair of Audio Physic Classic loudspeakers. Now, how much I can improve the tonal balance by adding some clarity and vibrance to highs and higher mids by trying to find different, maybe more powerful, maybe brighter amplifier.
Thank you for the clarification Tomek. Audio Physics make some very good speakers. You could put together a very nice system around those speakers. I suspect they are highlighting shortcomings in your Arcam amp. Have you tried Naim amplification? They should give you the PRaT (pace, rhythm and timing) you need without being overly bright.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Thanks for your suggestions. I'm putting NAIM amp on my shortlist: nait 5si or xs3
They say marantz amps are quite clear and a bit bright, what do you think?
cyrus 8adac or cyrus pre + power 200 - have you listened to cyrus amps?
what about exposure amplifiers - you've got them in your system so you know everything about them?
I recommend these starter combinations that give a lot of value for new people entering the HIFI world:
1. Vandersteen 1ci speakers and a YBA heritage a100 integrated amp. Fantastic value and can be upgraded internally for almost no money giving again about 5x more value than what is normal.
2. The classic modern value arrangement with Hegel amp/DAC/PC streamer or cheap cd player, coupled with KEF speakers.
3. The cheapest Monitor Audio floor speaker with a cheap Roksan amp/DAC.
The first and last example are extremely good value, whereas the second option is more for people wanting that midclass sound that costs a bit more, that is normally a lot more expensive with brands like Mcintosh, Pass Labs, Mark Levinson and such.
Thank you RHH 😉
Exhaustive ...as always you are a very authoritative ( but not boring) reviewer.
I really love watching your videos.
Please whenever you feel up for that, suggest a nice preamp for IotaVX PA3in a "typical" analogue set up (meaning with a turntable with phono preamp and a cd transport -or a streamer- with a good DAC taking proper care of), for (i am selfish with my request, i know that...) that is a combination that i am looking for my secondary set up
Thanks
That is a bit tricky Galeazzo as you want to integrate analogue and digital sources. The DAC/Power amp combo is a good option if you don’t need analogue sources. As you do, I would pick a decent integrated amplifier from a company that has a good built in DAC and phono stage and not go for the Iota PA3. The Audiolab 6000A or Arcam SA10 come to mind. These both have good DACs and phono stages built in. You don’t need a fancy CD transport if you have a CD player or Blu-ray player with a digital output which you can connect to the digital input of your amplifier. As for a streamer, now that the Auralic Aries Mini is no longer available, the Bluesound Node 2i is a good choice. Good luck and thank you for watching. I really appreciate your kind words of support 😉👍
So cool... what stereo rack is that behind you ? See organized !
Thank you. It is an Optimum rack 😊
Nice video. I like the flexibility of an external dac with analog amp. Currently pairing a topping d90 with primaluna integrated.
Thank you Neil 😉👍
I read a lot, and decided to buy Penaudio loudspeakers. I reached out to the designer and asked what he used for amplification. He said diy tube setups and an integrated amp from Sonneteer. So I bought a Sonneteer Orton, which worked very well with the Penaudios. I have since bought a pair of Harbeths (not on my short list, and double my budget), that better match the size of my living room. And I do not imagine I will ever be unhappy with that setup. But who knows.
Hi kirlu50. Sounds like you have put together a really nice system. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 When I was shopping for new speakers, a dealer demoed some Russell Ks for me, but he also showed me the anniversary version of the Harbeth c7es3's (more expensive) . I then knew that those were the ones I wanted, so I went home and got a little drunk, and then I ordered them.
Thank you for making the best TH-cam videos on Hifi.
Thank you buddy. I think they call that Dutch courage 😂
Hello! Thank you for your detailed analysis. I really appreciate this channel.
Quick question: what is your advice for this setup: speakers, turntable, amp. I would be using the turntable frequently, but also some digital sources (music CD’s).
Can you use an external DAC with an integrated amp (like the Arcan SA10) to get better more stable digital to analog response or am I stuck with the DAC in the integrated amp? Or would I need a non-integrated power amp to use with an external DAC/ phono input (if there is such a thing)?
Hi GCW, the Arcam SA10 has a very good internal DAC and decent phonostage. I would use the internal ones. Check out my review of the SA10 😊
th-cam.com/video/R1rSNydhXyQ/w-d-xo.html
Well done! Very informative, even for non-beginners.
Thank you Harry. I appreciate you watching and your kind words of support 😉👍
Hi Tarun, nice introductory explanation about amps, I would like you to make a tube amp video and you’re thoughts on transistor vs tube/valve amps
I will have to look into that Vicente. I need to get hold of some tube gear. 😉👍
Great video. What are you thoughts about Tube amps. Have you tried it in your system?
Thank you Kumar. Yes, a few over the years check out my review of the Wilsenton R8 😊👍
th-cam.com/video/cK_HHcN26MI/w-d-xo.html
Before you buy a car you need to know what power you want to get, nice video/
I am interested in communication to make my English better. I am from Russia
Thank you for watching and commenting alexey. Great to hear from you. You English is very good. 😉👍
As always quite informative ,
Thanks !
Thank you Anand 😉👍
Love the non-nonsense British understated video series. For a future video, may I suggest something? I have an integrated amp, but consider upgrading to separates. How to go about that? I know your 3x price rule for upgrades, but it gets complicated once you go from one box to several boxes. And how to you allocate the costs between power amp, pre-amp (with/without DAC), DAC, and Phonostage? So from a $2K integrated, to each component at ~ $2K? Or is a reasonable match achieved with say PA $4K, pre 1K, DAC 500, Phono 500?
And if you cannot upgrade all at once what is a sensible order? Use the pre-out on the integrated to go to a new power amp, or feed the new pre-amp into the aux in of the integrated?
Thanks for your consideration. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Thank you Daniel. When upgrading a fully featured integrated to separates the 3x rule would still apply you just have to try to gauge the quality of the DAC and inbuilt phono stage. Because they are all in one chassis and you are moving to separate chassis you may need to spend a little more if you were buying a one box component. Take my Hegel H160 that retailed for circa £2,500. I would consider that to be a £2,000 amplifier and a £500 DAC. I would spend £6,000 on an integrated and £1,500 on a DAC to upgrade. I could consider it to be a £800 preamp/DAC with a £1,700 Power amp. Again I would look to spend 3x on upgrades.
Another example would be the Audiolab 6000A that retails for £600. I would break this down to equivalent to a £500 amplifier with a £100 phono stage and a £150 DAC. I know they don’t add up to £600 but that is the amount I would need to spend on equivalent separate components. If upgrading, I would spend 3x those figures. It is not an exact science. Just ask yourself, how much will I need to spend on an equivalent DAC, phonostage, Preamp and Poweramp and then work from there. Hope this helps 😉👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Thanks for the breakdown. So if we put an average integrated price at 100%, then an equivalent power amp is ~70% (1700/2500), DAC ~20% (500/2500), 20-25% phono, and maybe 20% preamp, getting us to 130%, where the 30% is the savings on having all in one box (or penalty for separate boxes).
I may have gone a bit too low with the phono stage (Vincent PHO701 ~$700) to a Rotel RA1572 (~$2K); I needed a MC capable phono stage for the Soundsmith MIMIC* cartridge on a VPI super prime scout. The PHO701 has only 60 db gain, and have to crank up volume on integrated. If I went a bit low, that may give me an excuse to look for an upgrade more in the 25% of $2K x 3 = $1500 range. Thanks for providing a justification for gear shopping!
Still love my Pioneer vsx01. Might not be as good as what you have but I love it.
That is that matters James. I hope it continues to give you many years of listening pleasure 😉
Great video , appreciate the knowledge. I am currenrly debating whether to upgrade my basic sony 100w receiver to Yamaha S801 as i heard it has good doc, or to get a tube amp, i mostly listen to rock/metal, some say tube amps are not ment for such genre. My speakers are Sony SSf 6000 4 way.
Hi, tube amps tend to have low power and low damping factor (bass control). This is of course a massive generalisation. Still, if you are into rock and metal I would go for a solid state (transistor based) design like the Yamaha S801. Just choose an amplifier that is a good tonal match for your speakers 😊👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Awesome! Thanks for recomendation, much appreciated.
@@thenow5559 you are most welcome. Thank you for watching 😊👍
Great video Tarun. My Qinpu A1 OX integrated amp cost me £300 new around 15 years ago and has only 100 watts and is still going strong. Very punchy bass and will give amps 4 times it's price a run for the money. It's a Chinese amp and built to a very good standard. Maybe we can do a swap some day as I like the look of your Exposure amps there 😂😂😂
Thank you Steve. Good to hear from you. I may have to decline your offer as I am a little smitten with my Exposure amps. I suspect they may have to bury me with them someday 😂😂😂
@@abritishaudiophile7314 It was worth a try :-D
Hi Tarun, thanks for all the great videos. I am rethinking my audio system. I used to have a nice system when I was still living in Holland. I took the amp (rotel) with me and bought here (Thailand) some mini pods (I used to have entry B&W but they were to big to bring). I have a place in the mountains that I will move soon permanently to. The living room is big. It has an open kitchen on the ground floor and with a view from the living room into the kitchen/dining (the living room is on the first floor). Also from the first floor to the roof is probably 6 meters and from the ground floor (kitchen/dining) to the roof is thus about 9 meters. So, I am looking into what to change with the audio. First of all, I would like to have a DAC. But thinking of an amp with dac or pre-amp wil dac and then a power amp to that. I am also considering to change the speakers to floor speakers as it should handle the whole area. I can imagine that I will do it in steps. But the question is, what should the steps be. For a DAC I am looking what is possible with bluetooth so I can more conveniently use it with a notebook / mobile. It should have RCA as I always have trouble with min headphone connections. Maybe with this whole story, you could have some new ideas to cover some part of this in a video. Anyway, I really enjoy your videos.
Hi Peter, thank you for watching and your kind words of support. I would start with choosing a pair of speakers that will work well in your room. It would like you have a large space so floorstanders will probably be the way to go. Once you have chosen your speaker you should turn your attention to the amplifier. Depending on the power and quality of your Rotel, it may be up to the job or you may have to upgrade it. Choose an amplifer that works well with the speakers you have chosen. Then turn your attention the DAC. If you are running only digital sources then you could consider a DAC with a digital volume control and remote and use it as a preamp to feed direct,y into a power amplifier. Good luck, I hope this helps. 😉👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 That for sure was helpful. Thanks very much. I might slowly move my old audio equipment to another room. Thanks again.
If I would look for speakers that would really fit with a large high room and enjoy this kind of room (don't know how to explain it), what kind of brands should I have a listen to? Here standing speakers like Elac, Q Acoustics, Paradigm, Monitor Audio, Klipsch are here for example available. I can imagine that the dynamics / warms /... per brand is very different.
Great video. Informative and insightful.
Thank you for watching. I appreciate your support manas 😉👍
Hello, long time listener. Learning a lot from you.
Question, buying bigger vintage speakers soon but going in circles on what amp to purchase. Should I go with the CXA81 & V2 streamer or 6000a Play? Thank you, any help Would be appreciated.
Hi Mele, I haven’t auditioned the CXA81 V2 but the 6000A Play is an excellent amp for the money 😊👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 thank you 👍
A bit of caution on assuming an integrated amp or preamp has a phono stage merely because there is an input labelled as such, and that a ground lug is present. Especially so if buying in the used market. Some amps and preamps from the nineties had the phono stage as an option which one had to purchase a phono card to get so, if none is installed, it remains a line level input in spite of the labelling. This may be so even now for some manufacturers. Probably not too relevant for the target audience but I have come across sales staff who forget to mention this little detail to customers.
Thank you for sharing TimLee Lim
Great video the comment about buying speakers first where I live there are very very places that allow you to hear speakers I had to review speakers and my Intergrated Amp
That is a challenge JAMES. Try to get yourself to a show or just friends and acquaintances houseswhen things get back to normal. Exploit any opportunity to listen to different equipment even it isn’t in the ideal setting.
Thanks for a great video. I have a Denon AVR and Klipsch speakers. I typically listen at comfortable (sensible listening) levels, and the current setup gives me as much volume as I need. Since I'm not looking for the amp to provide more loudness, will it help make movies and music sound better?
Hi Prof Gord, a better amplification is not necessarily about power but also about control and refinement. It is more important to get the balance of the entire system right so that there are no obvious weak links. If you are happy with the sound from your amp and speakers, I wouldn’t change it. Thank you for watching and commenting 😉👍
A higher quality amp will most certainly improve the overall sound quality. For my Klipsch RF7i’s, I started with a cheapie Pioneer AVR with “supposedly” 150wpc. It could play the RF7’s loud and it sounded okay. Then I upgraded to an Arcam AVR300 with a real 120wpc, a very large toroidal transformer and a bank of good sized capacitiors. The sound quality transformation was amazing! Lots more clarity and detail, and the bass was unreal, I didn’t think non-subwoofer speakers could hit that hard and low, they can rattle the walls.
Hi jstoli996c4s, I was a case of quality over quantity. Going of specs can be misleading. Should only be used as a guide. My 75wpc Exposure amps sound more weighty and authoritative than my 150wpc Hegel H160. Of course the Hegel will play louder.
@@jstoli996c4s Thanks for this insight. So if I understand you correctly, even though you are sending more "watts" to the speaker, this doesn't necessarily result in more loudness (which I don't need)... the additional wattage helps deliver more "clarity and detail" out of the speakers (presumably at the same loudness levels)
@@profgord6957 in my case, the Arcam supposedly had less "spec" power on paper than the Pioneer, but in reality had far more REAL power. The quality of the power is what provided the clarity, detail, and much improved bass output. I try to not get caught up in the power numbers game, but it's always sexy to see bigass amps with hundreds of watts per channel that don't get used 99% of the time. Remember, even with moderate sensitivity speaker of 90dB, that's 90dB with 1 watt of continuous power, which is quite loud, to me anyways. Most of my listening is between 60-80db, which is well under 1 watt usage of the 120 wpc on tap in my Arcam amp, so under 1% utilization. Quality and quantity in equal measure :)
Hi Tarun, I think that we are the other end of the sound spectrum as we have PA systems on multi power amps, etc .However enjoyed watching your video and the world of audiophiles so going to watch some more cheers.
That is great Systemofthehounds. Thank you for watching 😉👍
Extremely informative, I learn so much from you about hifi. I assume phono pre amp must be the most sensitive to interference and therefore best to have one that is standalone?
Thank you B Shah. Great to hear from you. You are right the phono pre is probably even more sensitive than the DAC. Best to get an external one for the reason you stated. Also, the phono preamp is a competitive market. There are some really good external ones from brands like Pro-Ject and Rega and you get a lot for your money. Thank you for watching and your kind words of encouragement my friend 😉👍
Hi Tarun, another great video! If possible I would love to hear your thoughts on the Vincent sv700. Very hard to find reviews online (mostly "just" some German magazines). Thank you very much
Thank you for watching and your suggestion Thiago 😊👍
Hi Tarun! Do you use the Hegel H160 to power your ProAc Response 1SC's?
Hi Gerry, yes I use that and my Exposure XXI pre and XVIII Super mono. I switch between the two amps. Thank you for watching 😉
Great video. Appreciate the thoughts on DAC's being used as preamps. Question if I may: What is it that makes Audiolab a good match with Wharfedale (corporate structure aside). I am about to audition an Audiolab 6000a, and ironically it will be the 3rd and final amp I will audition for the speakers I've already decided chosen (Aperion Grand Verus III Towers). It seems I am already following your methods!
Thank you JP. The Audiolab amplifiers are fast, clean with a slightly analytical nature. The Wharfedale speakers tend to be big, full and rich sounding (exc. the Evo range). The two combine well to provide a balance sound. Good luck and thank you for watching 😉👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 In case you or anyone else is interested, I spent the day A/B'ing the Audiolab 6000a & Marantz PM8006. Your description was spot on & the 6000a is a nice amp, but the winner for me was the PM8006. More bass, more of a muscular sound, better imaging, wider soundstage, more forgiving highs, far more volume. The 6000a had more midrange clarity, more forward voices, more emphasis on highs, snares & cymbals (which I don't like), clean tuneful bass albeit less output. Preference will be music genre dependant. I thought the PM8006 was better suited for rock & metal.
Thank you JP Winters.
Hi Tarun. What tube or SS amplifier you would recommend to pair with a B&W 602 S2 bookshelf speakers. Thank you.
Depend on what sound characteristics you like but the Iota VX SA3 would be a good place to start 😊
As an (unneeded) addendum, I thought I'd add two more pennies to the amp power and SPL issue. As I write this on a laptop, I am listening to a truly wonderful young organist (Thomas Ospital) playing on the also wonderful organ at St. Eustache, in Paris. The recital comes through TH-cam in whatever might be their best audio. I don't have it turned up particularly loud, surely not as loud as it would be at the transept of that church. A moment ago, I reached for my SPL meter, just because I was curious how loud it actually was. Soft passages were in the 70's and crescendos just over 104 dB. My room is large, 20' x 32' v 17' high. I am sitting about 10' from each of the Klipsch RP600M's. I could carry on a conversation over the music, maybe talking closely with someone at the loud passages. But, alas, it's just me today.
If I do a little math, say 105 db at 10' is approximately 110 db at 1 meter from each of the Klipsch's. The advertised sensitivity of the 600M's is about 95 dB at 1 meter at 1 Watt. Some pundits accuse Klipsch of lying about the 95, suggesting they measure more like 91 dB at 1 Watt at 1 meter. Maybe. A little math indicates that the Klipsch's are converting about 32 Watts into SPL during crescendos. If the 91 dB sensitivity is more correct, double that to about 72 Watts. Pin those numbers.
Remember, this isn't terribly loud -- nowhere near the loudness might be live, in concert. But, this also isn't listening in a bedroom-sized room, perhaps 13' x 18' with 8' ceilings.
So, what is my point? It is that, while it is currently fashionable to speak of how little amplifier power you might get away with, it's good to also keep in mind just how quickly power needs grow -- exponentially, with SPL, and with room size, with your distance from the speakers. and with speaker sensitivity. Non-mathematicians often lose sight that:
A 3 dB increase in SPL will double the power needed
A 3 dB decrease in the speaker sensitivity will double the power needed.
Moving the listener 1 meter further from the speaker(s) will double the power needed.
So, let's say you have the same speakers in the smaller room itemized, and you listen to the same music, at the same SPL's, at 2 meters from the speakers: 105 dB at 2 meter using the higher efficiency number will need approximately 20 Watts. That could be 10 Watts per channel -- a capacity entirely within the wheelhouse of a typical "tube" amplifier -- with no allowances for greater needs.
*In all things important, size matters.* As does SPL; as does efficiency.
All this, for me (and me only) resolves why I wasted money on a newer model Denon amplifier rated at 45 Watts per channel. Remember the *72* figure we pinned? I had to replace it with one at least 3 times the size -- in my case, 150 Watts/channel. That new Emotiva amp is not loafing around here. At 105 dB where I sit, it is working at upwards of half capacity. That isn't much of a margin for error -- if I play the symphony orchestra transcription of, say, Pictures at an Exhibition. That gets downright bombastic. I know; I've heard the Cleveland Orchestra do it from the 4th row. I heard parts of it with my abdomen.
-Just one man's ear.
[Perhaps this might be the impetus for a script on the subject in the future, Tarun. But, I am presumptuous in suggesting.]
Thank you Jim. That is some piece of music with a dynamic swing of circa 35dBs. I find most music to be less than +/- 10dBs. Your right that you are going to need some power to deal with those peaks is a large room, listening at distance even with relatively efficient speakers. I did do a video on amplifier power a while back. Let me know what you think. I will put the link below. Thank you for for the analysis Jim, I really enjoyed reading it.
th-cam.com/video/N2LPcU35r50/w-d-xo.html
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I reviewed the referenced video and I believe we are entirely on the same wavelength (!). Our calculations line up rather well, so I'm pleasantly surprised that I didn't go off the rails with my method.
There are two places where I think we might differ. One is the maximum SPL of music recordings versus the minimum. For pop music, I agree that the absurd "wall of sound" recordings have almost no dynamic range at all. I don't listen to pop music, so I'll leave it to others to measure that. Plus or minus 5 dB doesn't seem out of line. But serious music (pardon the term) isn't like that at all. Dynamic ranges of 40 dB or more are common. That is especially true of symphony orchestras, close up listening to live jazz, and pipe organ for example.
I acquired the SPL meter just because of my curiosity about this. I borrowed the one I have, and it has a calibration sticker, so it's probably on the money. (It doesn't accurately measure below 50 Hx nor above 10 kHz, to be sure.)
While "wall of sound" recordings played back at 90 dB probably would damage hearing, I suggest that listening to classical acoustic music with crescendos above 100 dB is somewhat less than what the conductor hears. I don't know any conductors of large orchestras going deaf, and many are in their 70's. So, I propose that listening levels *averaging* 85 dB with crescendos of 110 dB are realistic. (Probably not for the neighbors, but I live in the country.)
The purpose of the SPL meter, in my case, is that I was weary of not having some absolute reference. Whose ears are calibrated for sound intensity? Not mine. I only know what an orchestra or an organ sound like, live. And, I know pain. So, the SPL meter tends to verify what I'm hearing, and to calibrate it somewhat. I don't use it for anything else. It's a handy device, and I plan to buy one and calibrate it against the one I've borrowed -- with the current calibration sticker.
By the way, you can hear that one recording that I referenced on TH-cam. Ospital apparently loves the discrete but extensive use of 32' tone, so give your subwoofer some love; there will be some
Hi Jim, I agree with you some classical recording have big dynamic swings and will place a lot more demands on amplifiers and speakers if those crescendos are not going to sound compressed. Thank you for watching my video and sharing your experiences and wisdom my friend. I agree, you and Max would get along like a house on fire. 😉👍
I was somewhat sceptical prior to purchase, but the Cyrus 200 class D amp is sensational.
Thank you P D 😉
Great vids always enjoy TH-cam Josef Hi-Fi
That shelf with that particular lighting reminds me of an empty cardboard toilet roll once I see it I can’t erase it. Nah seriously informative down to earth much love.
Thank you josefbuckland
Hello, Is there any chance you could provide some link to more info on this (9:46) topic ? I would be very interested in understanding how this works, how frequency changes the impedance and therefore current demands, if I understand the basic concept correctly. I heard many times that it's not just about watts, but I don't understand at low level how it works :( . Also, love the videos, great work.
Hi Flisker, I am not aware of any links as such on this topic. It is just information that I have collected over the years. Hence, my reason for doing the video. I find some, please let me know 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I see, no problem, thank you for reply anyway.
Inherited a brand new, never taken out of the box LINN Classik and LINN LK 140 from my folks. I’m looking to use this but have been out of the hifi “hobby” for some time so would welcome any advice on which speakers to pair with.
I can’t recall what people used back them with those amps other than Linn speakers of course 🤔
Tarun ⭐️ Thanks !!!
My pleasure. Thank you Roque 😉👍
Great informative as well interesting video Taran . Great work regards mark
Thank you Mark 😊👍
Hello Tarun. What's your opinion about an Emotiva A-100? Is this a good option to start a journey into the hi-fi world for a non audiophile? Thanks in advance.
I have only listened to it at a show. Looks good value for money 😊
Hii there, Thanks for making such a beautiful and informative video. But are you sure you mentioned the unit of current correctly when you were talking about the peak current??? A medium-sized would draw just 9 Ampere during normal operation given the power rating is 2000W. I heard you mentioning 40-50 Ampere peak current!
Thank you my friend. Because of the reservoir of electrical charge stored in the power supply caps it is possible for larger amps to provide that amount of current for momentary peaks 😊👍
Hi Tarun. Great video as always. I’m very interested in getting my self a Exposure integrated amp.
Do you have the DAC module in your amp or do you have and external DAC and if so which model of DAC (is it the Denafrips?)
Thank you PA. there is no DAC module (it is optional). I am currently using the Denafrips Pontus II 😊👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 chord qutest has been recommended to me by dealer I got my monos from, that a good choice in your mind?
@@Percival1919 it is a very good choice 😊
Thank you for that informative video, I am currently looking for a new amplifier but quite overwhelmed at how many there are and am struggling to narrow it down at the risk of making a costly mistake. The issue I have is my current amp is a Marantz PM7200 which is a class A amplifier and now that it’s coming up to 20 years old the sound is starting to deteriorate, I just don’t know what I would have to spend to get a modern day equivalent??? Generally the hifi stores I have spoken to say the equivalent would be an amplifier costing in the region of £1000. I don’t mind spending that sort of money but if I get it wrong I will be devastated. Any ideas of what sort of price bracket I should be looking at? Thankfully my speakers were replaced about a year ago Q Acoustics 3050i so I will be looking for something with analog inputs for my turntable (built in phono stage) and a digital input to cover some hi res files. Any help would be appreciated. Many Thanks
Hi Lundog, your PM7200 is a high bias class AB design, running the first 25 watts in class A before switching to class AB. The dealer is probably right the equivalent amplifier today would be something like the Marantz PM8006. You said it is starting to deteriorate, what is the problem? Have you thought of getting it serviced?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 well the problem started about 12 months ago I noticed that the regular hum that it had started to get louder and that it would take longer for the amp to warm up and produce the sweet sound I know and love. In the middle of all this I changed my old Nad CD player as it was having trouble loading discs and the tray was sticking. I upgraded the cd to a Marantz cd6006 and since then I have been having all sorts of issues. Now the sound has lost its warmth and musicality but gained clarity. In addition it has also developed a intermittent crackling sound which I think I have narrowed down the new CD player by running through a different amplifier it still has the crackling which only happens for the 1st 15 minutes or so but then disappears. So I have arranged for the hifi dealer to test it. I’m at my whits end with it all. Trying to establish exactly what’s at fault. I have changed the interconnects and speaker cable in case it was that. I just hope it’s not the speakers as they are only 12 months old. I suspect the change in sound characteristics is down to the new CD player and will have to sell that on as the dealer won’t take it back as it over 6 months old. I’m in a right pickle and need some help. Thanks for your time.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 yes I have enquired about getting the amp serviced there are only two companies that Marantz use in the uk. I have had a reply off one of them I will update have to send them the amp to investigate. I assume it’s a service I should be requesting?
Hi Lundog, you are welcome to call the people I use at Wilkinson Hifi. They service stuff from all over the country. Very knowledgeable and reasonable. It will cost you about £40 + courier charges to get them to look at it. As it is 20 years old I would suggest a replacement of electrolytic capacitors. Expect around £150 for a recap. Normally that will sort out the problem. If it needs more work they will let you know in the initial inspection. If it cost more than £200 to get it sorted I would probably cut your losses and get a new amp. Ask for Stuart and let him know that I pointed you towards him. He will look after you. Wilkinson Hifi are based in Lancashire and their number is 01282612901 If you prefer to go down the replacement amp route, please let me know. I can give you some recommendations.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 that’s great thanks for the recommendation and the sound advice (excuse the pun). I’m seriously considering doing both and getting something new for the listening room and moving the Marantz to the bedroom. Have you had any experience with Cyrus equipment particularly the 6dac and cd transport? I like the half size form factor and have always admired they’re stuff from many years back attending the Bristol sound and vision shows.
This helped a lot. Thank you.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I am glad you found it useful 😊👍
Great video as always
Thank you Chris. I appreciate your support 😉👍
Hi Tarun i’m looking for a decent opinion/review on the Roksan Caspian m2 integ amp, power amp and cd player, good honest unbiased reviews seem lacking sometimes. Also which speaker would be a good choice for this set up?
Hi John, I haven’t got hold of Roksan as yet. Sent them an email but haven’t heard back. Monitor Audio speakers are from the same company. That is a good place to start your search 😊👍
@ABritishAudiophile .. Tarun, you’re a legend bro .. informative .. I’m in for a penny in for a pound with the Genelec’s 8030a with sub, ( bit of dj’ing production as and when) any advice on a preamp or combo/cd ( thought of the freya or the quad atera) also a baby pre .. got the mojo for the phone but doubles up sometimes .. would appreciate your input .. kind Regards W
Hi Will, I haven’t tried the Freya but there is a lot of good stuff from ProJect, Audiolab/Quad that is good value 😊👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 thank you brother ❤️
Hello from NZ. What are your thoughts regarding older amps (70s ) and newer ones. I do hear a lot of listeners do like older style amps for their richer, warmer sound qualities. That can really make speaker selection somewhat tricky for sure. As a footnote I have a pair of 23 year old B&W P6 floor standers and a 5 Year old Rotel intergrated amp RA 1570. I think I might have got lucky , they seem to work realy well together. Yes I agree, compnents , cables ETC sure can improve or ruin a system but thats another rats nest for another time. cheers Tarun, from Ken.
I haven’t heard any 70s amps for a long time. Electronics have advanced a great deal since then but the essential design of a Class AB amplifier has not changed that much. I am sure there are some real gems out there from that period. I did a video on cables, you may want to check it out on my channel. Thank you for watching and commenting Kenneth 😊
Last weekend, I managed to get a dealer who agreed to let me bring in my 28 years old Cyrus 1 amplifier to demo against a new Rega Brio he was selling. Despite the fact that the new Rega was rated higher on wattage output than my old Cyrus, the difference was hardly noticeable at my listening volume, unless you are fully mindful. I decided to get the new Rega, since my old Amplifier is ageing .. Still a happy budget audiophile till today..
Hi C L K, the Cyrus One is a legendary amp. Set the benchmark for what could be achieved for the the money at the time. The Rega Brio is also an excellent amp. You could argue that it is it’s spiritual successor. Hope it gives you many years of listening pleasure. Thank you for watching and sharing 😉
Nicely done. I find on line forums to be helpful as well.
Thank you Joe 😉👍
Another great video. I noticed that you've tuned your amplifier for more music listening. If I wanted to do something like 7.1.4 theater set up and also listen to music, do I need two amplifiers, or should I just invest in one unit that can do both? It seems to me a lot of good amplifiers really focus on the stereo component.
Also, if I have to get two amplifiers - can I share the pre-amp and DAC?
Hi Richard, it really depends on what you want to spend. The issue is that the AV receiver isn’t really designed to be optimised for music listening. It does an okay job but I wouldn’t have it in the signal path of a high end system. You can get hifi amps with HT bypass that effectively runs the signal straight from your AV receiver to the power amp section of the hifi amp and disables the hifi preamp. That way you don’t have to mess with multiple volume controls. It is a good compromise.
Tarun, Thanks for your advice. I researched further on this and this approach will definitely work, although it will be a littler fiddly to get all the right peices.
I’m wondering if you’re familiar with a technology called WISA which is supposed to do away with the need for AV receivers and amps altogether. I was potentially hoping to use Buchardt active speakers as my front three and I’ll buy cheaper rear and heights...
I’m a little cautious as this seems to be a brand new technology. In particular:
- there don’t seem to be many WiSA ceiling speakers
- the cost of 6-8 WiSA speakers for the ceiling etc may rival cost of amplifier anyway
- manufacturers may not support the format.
Do you have any thoughts on this ? Since im constructing right now, I could just get all the wiring done now, but I’m hearing some good reviews for the A500/700s and think it could be quite a good system for someone just starting out. Would love to hear what you think of this ?
Hey Tarun
I have the yamaha rx-a3080 and the klipsch rp-8000f as speakers which amplifier do i need to play stereo music maybe you have some suggestions brands four a amp .
and how many watts do i need for this.
thank you grz : ben (Belgium.)
Hi Ben, the RX-A3080 should have more than enough power to drive your RP-8000Fs properly. Unless you think the sound is lacking somewhere, why can it?
Hi,
I Am very much new to amplifier and speakers of this level. I bought Yamaha rx-a3080 and Klipsch RP 8000F + klipsch 100 SW Just this week. I Am reading through a lot of stuff online about best settings to get the best out of the system. I agree that what I like is the best sound for me, but Just to have some basics clear, I need some help . I Am using the whole system for music listening now. Later some movies or TV listening . I read about LFE, LPF etc. and tried to play with setting the mains to Large/ Small LFE/LFE+Mains and LPF - 120Hz but I do not seem to feel any difference. I was expecting klipsch 100 SW to explode my room but its still very nominal. Could you please help me out with some basic settings.
Thanks a lot.
Ben.
@@abritishaudiophile7314
@@bendanielle it isn’t really the area I focus on Ben as l stick with two channel listening these days. The RP8000F is a large speaker and the final setting are going to be room and use case dependent. I would start with front LCR channels set to small at the LFE crossover point at 80Hz. That should get you in the right ballpark and you can then tweak from there. Good luck 😊
Thank you once more for making complicated topics understandable for a dummy like me. Amp spec ratings. Why is this not standard?! I have a pair of Magnepans, which I love, but the information around amp pairing is so confusing and often contradictory. Thank you for clarifying once and for all. It's not watts needed, that's only half the story. It's current, measured in amps.
Thank you for watching and your support Craig. Excellent synopsis, I couldn’t have said it better. The max current capability of an amplifier is at least as important as the power rating 😊👍
Hi Tarun Thanks for your overview of amplifiers. Very interesting even though I’ve been listening to and buying hi-fi since 1973. I discovered Naim in 1989 and only owned Naim amps and speakers until recently, fronted by an LP12. I made a decision to ‘start again’ with my system and move away from Naim (long story). I listen to vinyl only. I used a superb Well Tempered Versalex with a Dynavector 17D3. My speakers are also American and they’re Revel F260 floorstanders. These are quite big full range speakers used in a smallish listening room. Amp duties are currently being undertaken by a (stop-gap) Leema Pulse (80 wpc) or my old Sony 870ES (120 wpc). Can you suggest an amp or two for me to dem under £3k. I have a superb phono stage (Nighthawk from the USA) and a very good headphone amp (Fidelity Audio) in place.
Hi Peter, what kind of tonal balance are you looking for, warm, neutral or more forward?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Something neutral or with a degree of warmth.
@@PeterJones-yq1xw the obvious choice would be an Arcam SA30 as it is from the same stable but I would also look at...
Musical Fidelity M6Si
Canor Audio AI 2.10
Exposure 3010S2D and 3010 monoblocks
Thank you so much for taking the time for your suggestions for audition. I will investigate and audition them all. I’m also looking at Rega offerings. It’s good to have some experience input. I’ll be sure to let you know how I get on. Kind Regards, Peter.
@@PeterJones-yq1xw please do Peter 😊👍
A very good explanation I thought.
Thank you Julia 😊👍
Thoughts on the McIntosh MA9000 integrated amplifier..? I am on a budget and also limited for space, so I cannot pull off two separate units.. I enjoy your videos very much, keep them coming .. as a new audiophile I'm learning a lot still.
Thank you SJ. I have been doing this for 30 years and I am still learning all the time too. I haven’t had a listen to the MA9000 but McIntosh make good stuff if you enjoy their sound signature. They have traditionally had a particular sound as opposed to going for broad appeal. I would start with a pair of speakers that you like and work well in your room. Then put together a system around that. Thank you for watching and I greatly appreciate your support 😉👍
Hi Tarun. Would there be much difference in using an Exposure Pre-amp over an Exposure integrated as a Pre-amp with their power or mono-block amps?
You should step up a level of performance as you go to the per/power and again as you move to the monoblocs 😊
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I made a step from just my Arcam A39. And purchased 3010 mono-blocks. I’m using the Arcam as a pre-amp for the time being until I get a Exposure Pre-amp
Also what is the make of your Hifi rack?
@@Percival1919 Please let me know how you get on. The rack is by Optimum 😊
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Thank you
Sir a fine video thank you.peace
Thank you ML 👍
Curious, how would you describe your Hegel h160 sound characteristics? Warm - Neutral - Cool and apply the same to Bass - midbass - lower to upper mids and highs? I recently demoed an amp I thought presented too much upper mids and highs in relation to Bass through lower midrange and I found the Hegel to be warmer although it has been described as cooler side of neutral? I have more analytical speakers though.
I would describe the Hegel H160 as on the slightly cool side of neutral. The bass is fast, clean but lean, the mids are a little on the dry side of neutral, beautiful extension on the treble. Overall the amplifier is on the analytical side. Good amplifier with warm, rich and full sounding speakers.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to figure out how what I hear can be described. I have my h160 on a set of Focal 807Ws and recently tried the Sound SA Artist 200IA integrated. While far less cost than the hegel, it was also far less capable. I found it a bit bright and unbalanced with weaker bass and low mids compared to upper mids to highs. Not to mention the overall SQ. Sent it back.
On Quad S2s, the Soundartist gave them some energy/excitement with music at the expense of SQ while the Hegel made the Quads very accurate and focused but presented a very 2D soundstage which was far less engaging to listen to. I had hoped the Quads would make an alternative to the Focals, not sure but will give them some more time.
I had once considered an Audiolab 8300A as a lighter replacement as the h160 is heavy and overkill for my speakers, but it does bring out the best they have to offer. I guess that's what it's all about.
I am also considering a smaller standmount (such as the Quads) but I really like the presentation of the Focals. Not as focused or perhaps natural as the Quads for voice and acoustic but so very engaging at an emotional level. Ideally I wanted a lighter amp and smaller standmounts but not at too much of an expense of SQ and I don't want to spend double the money at this point on higher end speakers. I need speakers that perform well at lower volumes.
I also wasn't sure how close the Audiolab 8300A was in SQ and at the time is it was heavily discounted, now at full retail but I still have an eye on it. The What HIFI review stated they were not the "most engaging around" but I think the reviewers tend to favor brighter presentations. I do not find the Hegel h160 bright at all. So, I would consider the Audiolab if it were close in overall ability, if not I am happy with the Hegel...I don't move it around much anyhow.
I only listen at low to moderate volumes but I don't think there are many integrated amps that can do what the h160 does so well at under or around $1K US. Perhaps I could find an alternate at a higher price but it wouldn't make economic sense to me. The next venture is in trying some dacs for better sound however marginal it may or may not be. I find the Focals more or less giving a 3D soundstage at times and I want to see if I can better that experience.
Interestingly enough, the hegel isn't good for all standmounts. I have small Triangle Zetas that the hegel grips so much it muddles the midrange. Far better results with a class D for that one. So system matching matters. Thanks again.
If only I could win the lottery.
Hi N C, it is tricky downsizing. I would just stick with your H160 and Focal’s 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I think so to.
Well done.
Thank you Kobi 😉👍
I have Klipsh Forte II…any recommendations? Average room..
There are lots of options with those speakers 😊
Nice video, I was surprised to find "synergies" amidst all the engineering talk. :) It would be so awesome to see a video that demystifies this concept (what are the causes of the descrepancies that have to exist for there to be synergies), and how "much" do they matter. It would also be cool with some elaboration on how to figure out "synergies" if you have older/rarer speakers or amplifiers.
For example, I have a pair of JBL Ti10k, and I think it's one of the least present-on-the-internet speakers. Hardly any tests, reviews or data, aside from the original data sheet. I'd probably have better luck finding a suitable amp for the JBL Paragon. When you then also factor in that I'm looking for a power amplifier and shopping for used deals, it becomes extremely difficult (to me, atleast) to wrap my head around what will work well with the speakers, and what wont.
And just on point to what you're saying; the buying experience is so different today, there are fewer stores where you can go and listen to the kit, fewer that will loan the device or have a sensible return policy that allows you to actually audition it, etc. And when shopping used, obviously it's even worse.
Thank you for sharing. Synergy is partly science and a bit of a dark art 😊
Have you tried studio monitors? Good ones from Adam or Neumann for example? Studio monitors are mostly way better than hifi speakers but not always as expensive
Greetings from Germany
Great to hear from you Ruben. I have heard good things about the Adam audio active speakers, not so familiar with the Neumann speakers but have heard the name. I have the AE1 actives in for review and do plan to review more actives. Would be worth looking into. Thank you for the suggestion 😉
Also, what are your thoughts on connecting a DAC via Balance XLR to your integrated amplifier?
Hi SJ, the benefits of XLR are the common mode rejection. This is useful in eliminating noise picked up by the cable. Useful for long interconnect runs 5m+. For shorter runs on most equipment I would stick with the RCA. Most equipment has an XLR connection by adding an extra stage at the end of it’s output, extending the signal path. The exception is a fully balanced DAC feeding a fully balanced Preamp. That is rare other than on very high end gear as it requires twice the circuitry. Good question 😉
Hello a question what brand of furniture that supports your equipment?
Hi ozzi, made by a company called Optimum, their Premier range. Thank you for watching 😉
I need some advice. I have a Naim Uniti Star, PMC Twenty5.23i speakers, Chord Shawline speaker cable, MCRu mains lead and Isotek Genesis mains block. What I want to know is, what colour sofa should I buy to sit on to listen to it? :-)
Good one Billy, I would go with black! Audiophiles love black backgrounds 😂😂
Have to ask, how are you keeping that rack of yours cool? Based on what is in there, a few pieces run on the hot side. It's not always the equipment that needs to be discussed, time needs to spent on how you look after what you have.
Hi John, they are all on individual shelves normally. Sometimes I have to love things around based on what I am reviewing and having to breathe space for. I don’t have anything that runs particularly hot. Maybe the Chord Mojo when it is being charged and used at the same time. In any case the ventilation is sufficient. Good question for people to consider. Thank you for asking 😉👍
What are your views on component break in? I have a Class D integrated and I seem to be having a hard time getting the sound to settle and fully open up. The amp is rated at 200 wpc and speakers are 15ohms.
Hi Din, some components need more break in than others. It just varies according to design, I suspect you have a synergy issue with your amp and speakers. Some class D amps are not happy with speakers that have big dips in the impedance load.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I understand that the imepdance can affect the sonic nature of some class D's. Well the manufacturer recommends at least 600hrs. It's had more than enough run time...
A few weeks ago it started sounding off. L/R imaging felt skewed. Sounded edgy with no weight to the sound. I was thinking it was broken.
Almost seems that being a big amp in a small room with moderate volume, it's not pushing the amp hard enough.
Have found a way to run the amp without having to connect the speakers by using LEDs. So have put more load and been running it continous. It works. Finally feel like I'm getting somewhere. Soundstage has started to fill in with more depth. Before there was good detail and forward projection but sounded a bit flat. Not entirely sure what's going on but has been a long painful experience.
Hi Din, sounds like there is a fault with the amp. You shouldn’t need to connect LEDs to it to increase the load. That is quite unusual. Have I misunderstood something ?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 No, what I mean is I connected a led instead of the speakers to the speaker cables in order to put a signal through the amp. The led works to discharge the energy from the amp output. That way I can leave the amp running without generating any noise. Does work. Every so often when I reconnect the speakers. I can hear a change or an improvement. The system can sound quite good. But never really felt the amp sounded like a 5k amp.
Thank you for clarifying Din 😉
Can you please name few models of intigrated amplifiers for Focal Kanta 2... also separate DAC's and amp's you recommend ..Please 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hi shemaya, what sound characteristic are you looking for, warm, neutral, bright? Also it depends on where you live. Most components are better value in the country of origin.
Something from Musical Fidelity might be a good starting point. New or used and take it from there.
Hi 405line, I Lomé Musical Fidelity stuff too. Not sure what is happening to the company as the founder Anthony Michaelson sold it to Heinz Lichtenegger of Pro-Ject. Hopefully some new gear coming out soon.
Thanks for this - I am trying to decide on a new amp setup for my listening space and am having a hard time deciding what I want - doesn't help my budget is only about $500 cdn...........
I would go for some nice powered speakers. Get the size right for your room 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I already have a few sets of speakers (i build my own) and just cant seem to decide on what I want🙂
Other than speaker set up, that is the hardest thing to get right Derek. The speaker amp combination. Take your time and try out different amplifiers. You will know when you have got the right one 😉
Thanks Tarun, I am a beginner and wanted to start a set up. Only streaming content through tv or mobile will be played. Currently a Sony 5.1 is on duty and want improve. I liked two DAC smsl m200 & topping d50s. Not decided on amplifier and speaker. Apart from this what should I consider? Budget is $1000. Would be nice with some model recommendations.
Hi satyapriya, what Sony receiver and speakers are you running? If it is any good, it may not be worth changing.
sorry, it’s a 5.1 sound bar with inbuilt amp. Model Sony HT -RT3. Please guide me if by adding few stuff will help or dispose the current one and start building a new one
Hi satyapriya, I will try to point you in a general direction but need some information.
Do you want a 5.1 surround system or a 2 channel system?
How big is your room?
How far away from you speakers will you be sitting?
What kind of music do you mostly to listen to?
A British Audiophile looking for 2.1 room size 15* 10 feet. Tv n speaker distance will be 7-8 feet. Music kind of mix and nothing specific
Hi satyapriya, it depends on what is better value where you live. For example U.K. manufactured gear is better value in the U.K. and US manufactured great better value in the US.
You mentioned dollars so if you are in the US...
Amps I would consider: Iota VX SA3, NAD C338, PS Audio Sprout.
Speakers: Elac Debut reference, PSB Alpha P5, Klipsch RPM 600.
They all sound different but this is a good shortlist to audition to try and get the sound you want.
Is a 50wcp nad amp enough power for my b&w 602, or do I need more power? Room is 11 x 6 m. Thanks!
Depends on how loud you listen but should be enough for most people 😊
@@abritishaudiophile7314 thanks for your reply. I have a c326bee and C356bee to test but I can hardly hear any difference 😅
So I guess the 326bee is fine!
@@tess6499 if you can’t hear a difference with your speakers and you are not planning to upgrade them in the future, then go for the most cost effective option 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 cheers! 😃
Excellent video. Subbed 👍
Thank you JR. I appreciate your support 😊👍
Great video!
Thank you Veiko 😉👍
Thank you more please
Thank you Stephen 😊
I forgot to mention, I only actually need 1 input which is notebook or phone. I don't connect a tv or anything else. I used to like the concept of things like Cyrus though at that time I liked the sound of the Rotel more. Even it has all the extra options that I didn't need.
musical fidelity b1 or luxman l410?
Hey Taran, would you buy a denon x3700h for $1150, or a denon x4500h for $1200?
Hi Satjinder, they both seem like decent AVRs for the price but I haven’t done an A/B. I am pretty much a 2 channel guy these days. Sorry I can’t be of more help 😉
Are AudioLab amps any good? I've not seen many reviews around.
I like them 😉
I learned just very very recently how important harmonic distortion is... Especally for MagnaPlanars.. Is that also what u find?
Hi Texan, the type of harmonic distortion is more important than the amount. 2nd adds warmth and richness, 3rd not so nice, higher orders even worse. Of course, even the 2nd needs to be kept in check.
Planar speakers have a particular type of distortion that may or may not be of concern as well. A planar speaker does not move as one diaphragm as people think, but more as a very large number of individual little local movements. Think about a picture of the ocean and the millions of individual waves. Some don’t notice it and some do.