PB Blaster is your best friend for stuck and frozen steel. Used it on ships. WD 40 mostly for getting rid of water. GREAT VIDEO though, Thanks for posting it.
Agreed!! Dad always used WD-40 growing up. The last 20 years I’ve been working on my own cars and mechanical stuff, PB Blaster is 3X better and you can use half as much.
When dad had his NH 488? And wanted to swath oats, he would stick a large steel rounded bar between the crimpers. This would open up a gap and my job as a 8-14 year old farm boy was to put a block of wood on each side where the shims are to keep a large gap between the rollers. That way the oats would not get crimped and would lay drying in windrows until combined. Then we reversed the process to remove the blocks of wood out for 3 crop hay cutting.
g, day from Australia l worked in the Ford NewHolland factory in cranboure in the 1990, l loved working there ,didn't work on mow cons , just tractors, round baler mixer grinders new sub to channel cheers from down under....
Thanks for your time helping others, you just saved me a ton of guessing and experimental work. Also directing me to B&D for the rollers!! And kudos to dad for his quiet help in the background, and the neat mustache!!🥸
Great job, thanks for taking the time to make this video - it will be a big help if I ever need to replace the rollers on my 474. So far the rollers are doing a decent job of crimping the hay since I reduced the number of spacer shims, but who knows for how long... it's a huge cost saving the longer you can keep these old machines running. Thanks again!
Great video! I have a NH 467 haybine that also needs new rollers. Your video gave me ideas on what I will need to do, albeit mine is a different model, I’m sure many of the principles are the same. I’d be too afraid to tackle the job except that your video gave me the confidence I will need. Thanks!
Thanks for this! There was no "conditioning" going on with the old rolls ;( That was an good solution for removal. This is why I like the hesston steel on ticor design! You will like the interlocking design of the new rolls and yes, hay conditioning will increase.
We actually went and looked at a used Hesston that was for sale at a very reasonable price. Of course, part of the reason it was affordable was that it was rather worn out, so we opted to pass on it. My general impression of Hesston haybines is that they’re simple, rugged, and well built.
Great how to video on switching crimpers. Crimpers look good but rubber always fades fast. As I have no hate on this. We take your 102” crimper put it in our lathe and take rubber off and put 1/2”x1” steel on. With doing this your hay product no matter what it may be dries in a faster time and crimps better. Again great how to video. Just for future thought we do the iron crimpers. Have a blessed day. From Michael’s welding and machine.
Outstanding video! Very well done in all respects. I own a similar NH haybine, a 472. Rollers are original and well worn. I've used tedding and patience as a substitute ... but sometimes being patient with drying an extra day results in rained-on hay. Weather in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia is highly changeable. Another problem I face with the haybine (even with a fresh cutter bar) is that in the spring the orchard grass often gets out of hand when the weather stays wet and cool, like this year. My fields are now really high (2-3 feet and deep green) and if I can mow them at all it will be with no tension on the rollers and the highest setting of the skid plates. This is where the $10,000 used disc mower makes the difference. One note about mold, which I experienced when I just got started at this kind of farming. After wasting some hay from mold, I bought a bale tester, which you can use to test one bale and see where you are. But by then you've already raked and drying isn't as fast in the windrows. There is also on the market a tester that will test moisture in loose hay that you stuff into a 5 gallon bucket -- following the exact instructions. I now use this on the tedded hay and don't dare rake and bale if it's telling me anything over about 25%, and that's cutting it close. I hate grinding up wet hay with the rotary mower, but it's better than hearing from an angry cattleman or horse operation about moldy bales.
I have a John Deere 1219 Haybine, the rollers are fine but I have the new bearings for both rollers and this video contains some great advice. I myself have looked online and there is little to no information on this procedure, much thanks.
Thanks for putting this on video and even the after market rollers. 3yrs old but we are still running a 492. I’m trying to get as much life out of it as possible, $20-$30k for a discbine isn’t in the forecast yet.
Hey KPVFarmer! Thanks for watching! I definitely hear you on the cost of a discbine. We've kicked it around as well, but for our acreage and hours of use each year it just makes more sense to keep the haybine tuned up and running.
I called the company and got a quote a few years ago for my dads NH1411. They were somewhat cheaper than buying NH rolls from the dealer at that time. But even if they were 10-20% than factory rollers, the better conditioning should pay for itself.
Great video! I just picked up a 489 that’s got a lot of life left in it but as you said the forum’s make it sound impossible to replace the rollers and to just “junk it”.... I’d rather fix a $1,250 conditioner then go buy a $15,000 disc bine and have all the tools you have to do the same job. Thanks for the video and you should do a follow up to how you like those rollers compared to the factory chevron rollers. Thanks again!
Thanks Kyle! I’m glad it was helpful. These machines are definitely still useful for folks with smaller acreages. And you’re right, everyone seems to push for a disc bine these days, but the cost of one makes it tough to justify without a lot of acres to cut. I did a review video on the Crusher rollers right after we put them in, but I should probably do another one now that we’ve been using them for a couple of years. They’re great! Holding up really well, and they reduced the drying time of our alfalfa by about 24 hours. The difference in grass hay isn’t as apparent, but that dries down relatively quickly anyway.
Like the car market today, used Ag equipment has skyrocketed, IF you can find what you are looking for. I just found a JD 1209, first thing I looked at were the rollers and thankfully in good condition. The WB is tight too, everything else is minor compared to those two items. Great job explaining your methods. The reason the mechanic told you to do it his way, Time is Money. After doing a few, they know the tricks to work around taking the shroud off, that right there adds 60-90 minutes to the job. Cutting the bearings with a torch saves 30-90 minutes of work. Ask 10 mechanics the same question, you will get 10 different ways of doing something, it's just how we are and how our experiences are. Not a thing wrong with how you did it, and a MUCH safer method too. Mechanics don't get paid by the hour, but by the job, so if the job pays 6 hours, they try to do it in 5. Right now I am rebuilding what I thought was a deal on an IH 35 side rake, would have been had I trailered it home, but the left hub ground the axle and the rachet hub down due to bad bushings. So my $650 rake has actually cost me $1450. However, the cheapest rake I found outside of this one was $1350 and also had wobbly hubs, no guarantee the same thing wouldnt happen. All the rest were $2K and up. Tough market out there. On the old rollers, did you sell them for scrap metal? 600 pounds of scrap metal puts a few $$ in your pocket rather than having them sit around rotting.
Oofda! Talk about your specialized services! If a neighbor in need asked me to help, I'd probably kick the dirt a little and reluctantly agree, but it's not the kind of job I want to advertise my skills for, LOL.
Oh man. That's my nightmare right there. Those things ain't cheap, and I'd like to make sure I get a few years of use and profit out of the haybine before we need to make another major repair. Glad to hear yours is holding up after the fix!
You didn't ask Duke if he approved of you removing his sun shroud first thing :) I like your Dads words of wisdom "don't be too dumb" something we should probably all tell ourselves from time to time lol
Very nice video. It makes it seem more within reach of doing. I was hoping to see details on the bearing installation. I'm pulling apart my 479 to get a bad bearing off the lower roller on the open side. I'm wondering how to know I've got the replacement in the correct position on installation.
Well done. However with a torch, you burn off the bearing and then cut off the shaft with the torch once the bearing is out of the way. No "jelly arms". Those bearings are expensive. JD used the same ones in a big manure spreader and they're about 50 bucks cheaper. You just need to get the number off of it. Good job fixing it up, I never did like discbines.
Just started looking at TH-cam videos about these as I just bought a small farm, but in a previous career I worked with industrial paper-making equipment that used rubber coated rolls. There are companies that can recoat/recondition rubber coated rolls at a fraction of the cost of new ones, and a quick google search found companies that specifically mention haybine rolls.. Just a tip ... I almost yelled "No!" out loud when you said you were going to cut the end shafts on the originals.
I hear ya Mark. I looked up a bunch of information on re-coating rollers before we did the job, and really thought hard about doing it that way. The problem was that we needed it to be a relatively quick in-and-out job between crops, so we couldn't mess around with shipping rollers around the countryside and waiting for them to come back. And there was still the issue of getting those bearings off of the spindles It's the old fast, cheap, good triangle of choices. You only get to pick two. We needed it fast and good, so we paid a premium for the new rollers and cranked out the job in the best way we knew how. And in the end, we sold a lot of really nice hay last year, and those new rollers have already paid for themselves. For what it's worth, I didn't feel great about cutting those spindles off and turning the old rollers into junk either. I hate wasting anything. But I guess in this case we made the best call we could, and got down to business.
Hey Bryan! The rollers have held up really well so far. Granted, we only have about 14 acres of alfalfa and some meadow grass hay, so they get about 60 to 70 acres of use per year. I would say that they don't make a significant difference in grass hay, but in alfalfa they'll shave a whole day off of the drying time... IF... the conditions are right. Low humidity, some wind and sunshine, and a wide windrow all help a lot. This past summer we had a couple of occasions where we cut on a Sunday late morning, raked into a tighter windrow on Tuesday morning, and were baling by Tuesday afternoon. That makes some awfully nice green hay, I'll tell ya! But the conditions were about perfect in those cases.
Good job on the rollersDrank six PBR’s watching this made my cheeks pucker was afraid that somebody was going to pinch your fingers hate the pension fingers lol good job have you guys started harvest yet
Hey JMo! Yup, the B&D rollers are still going strong. They seem to be very sturdy and tough, as they don't have any damage or even discernible wear after a couple of years. Granted, we don't cut a ton of acres each year. I believe that in good drying conditions - sunny with low humidity - these rollers shave a whole day of drying time off of our alfalfa. Grass hay isn't as big of a difference, but definitely better than our old worn-out rollers. Of course, if the weather doesn't cooperate it won't matter how well crimped the hay is, but that's always the case. I'm happy with them! Would do it all over in a heartbeat!
I need to put a decent machine shed/shop on my Christmas list! But with material prices where they're at, I'd happily settle for a torch and an arbor press. :0D
Yep! The rollers crimp the stems every couple of inches, which really helps with letting the moisture out and getting faster dry down. Plus the bales end up feeling softer with the stems smashed, which I think makes the hay more appealing for my customers.
No need to remove shrouds . Remove the reel. Then remove the bolts from the ends on the hubs on the rolls. The rolls can fall out... of course....lifting them out.
I much enjoyed your video. Btw, Your dad rules. He makes that old IH look small...lol... What model is that. I have an old 666 that we just love and it has done everything we've asked of it from baling to snowblowing.
It's been two years, so I'm not even sure anymore. I just know they were a few hundred dollars cheaper at that time than the chevron rollers from New Holland, and that I've been really happy with their performance, especially in alfalfa. Call 'em up! They're good folks, and will gladly give you a current price quote for your particular machine. I'm sure they've gone up a bit, just like everything else these last years.
@@Imoto23 Well that's interesting. I don't remember exact figures, but I know when we did this job, the B&D rollers were about $400 cheaper than New Holland replacements. And while it was definitely an expensive job, it was nowhere near $6,600. We had considered buying another used haybine, but at that time used New Holland haybines were generally a couple thousand dollars more than the replacement rollers, and then you'd still have a used machine with unknown life remaining on the rollers, wobble box, etc. So we decided to stick with our machine and fix anything that needed attention. But that was just the choice we made for our particular situation. Every farm is different.
My goodness !!!! Hay is not drying ? Have you checked for spacers between the rolls ( on each end ) ???? At 4:42 seems like the spacers are still in ! Often haybines were shipped with the spacers in. They were meant for doing oats so the rolls woundnt know the oats off. 1/4 inch spacers. At 3:19 I can see day light between the rolls. This should not be ! Yes your rolls are in poor condition...but I doubt thats the problem at that point. You should not be able to pull a sheet of paper from between the rolls ! Then too.....you have the pressure at max on the rolls ? Many farmers bought a haybine and never read the operators manual and operated it for years never knowing the spacers were in. Should have just stuck with the sickle mower !
Interesting points. Dad and I would actually widen the gap even more when swathing oats between 2nd and 3rd cutting. Dad would push a round metal bar in between the rolls and then turn the rollers to advance the bar in some. Then my job was to add a small block of wood (shim) on each side so that there was a much larger gap between the crimpers. We reversed it back after oats and before 3rd crop. When dad upgraded to a discbine, he had to hire out for swathing oats. I believe he felt it was well worth it to hire a large cut SP swather and the discbine was awesome for the dairy.
I was thinking the NH chevron rolls are supposed to have a small gap (but not much) by design. Like a few millimeters, where as the BD rollers are touching.
@@lucasrabe Thanks......but its reality. Been to many sales and most of the " haybines " still have the spacers in them...........rusted in ! You are right..... put spacers in for oats. Haybines can be fitted for spacers also. Takes a bit..but Ive done it....and it works.
@@lucasrabe Regardless....... what type of rolls they are. If your cutting hay the rolls are protected from even " touching " each other because there is hay moving through the rolls. Now if your going to run the haybine / disc bine for hours with no hay moving through. I can image the rolls " might " heat up a bit. But even then..... it should not cause a problem. Even my boy bought a haybine. the spacings were almost a half inch between the rolls. I told him........go back the the machine shed.......use the torch and cut the shims out. You can see to the exact spot the difference in the " crimping " ! If a farmer wants to use a sickle mower.....have at it !
I feel I need to address this comment. I clearly outlined in the video that this was only ONE way to get the job done. The mechanic at the dealership advised us to torch the bearings off and leave the spindles intact, and I included that description in the video. That wasn’t an option for us, so we chose a different method. Our old rollers were shot, and we didn’t have the time or desire to ship them off to be re-covered and then have them shipped back to us. Also, we had already determined we wanted to buy and install the B&D rollers. And as for the “money to burn” portion of this statement, it makes zero sense. We make and sell horse-quality small square bales as a significant part of our farm operation. As such, the new rollers have paid for themselves SEVERAL times over already. In fact, they paid for themselves in the first season we used them, and they will likely outlive the haybine. If there are viewers watching this video and contemplating replacing their own rollers, I trust that they’re intelligent enough to decide which method to use based on their available time, tools, mechanical aptitude, budget, and intended use of the machine.
Its so obvious.....at 7:58 there are many shims between the rolls ! This is the primary reason your hay never dried ! Daylight between the rolls everywhere ! Cant crimp hay with that situation ! I had the same issue with my haybine. Had to replace the rolls. But in your situation the rolls were not that bad. The bottom roll would have done the job. Its in great condition. When done......consider removing all the shims !?!?
Fun stuff! I’m a geek, not a farmer, but do know how to do mechanical stuff. My farming is done with Farming Simulator, where I do prefer Haybines, the New Holland self-propelled mower/tedder/windrower, or an old sickle bar mower over the modern, plastic covered crap available in the base game.
Do you play on PC? I’ve played a few versions on mobile and it’s ok, but I’ve heard PC is the way to go? I also have it on Xbox, but was never very good at Xbox or Nintendo and such.
@@lucasrabe I use Macs, not PCs. FS on a computer is _much_ better than on some mobile device. A mouse and keyboard make all the difference. Gaming platforms aren't bad for FS, but they're limited in many ways compared to the options you can have on a real computer.
"Everything about this is fine, and I was wrong." So refreshing to hear anyone acknowledge that learning a key bit of info should shift a perspective.
PB Blaster is your best friend for stuck and frozen steel. Used it on ships. WD 40 mostly for getting rid of water. GREAT VIDEO though, Thanks for posting it.
Agreed!! Dad always used WD-40 growing up. The last 20 years I’ve been working on my own cars and mechanical stuff, PB Blaster is 3X better and you can use half as much.
WD-40 has always been child's play.
When dad had his NH 488? And wanted to swath oats, he would stick a large steel rounded bar between the crimpers. This would open up a gap and my job as a 8-14 year old farm boy was to put a block of wood on each side where the shims are to keep a large gap between the rollers. That way the oats would not get crimped and would lay drying in windrows until combined. Then we reversed the process to remove the blocks of wood out for 3 crop hay cutting.
g, day from Australia l worked in the Ford NewHolland factory in cranboure in the 1990, l loved working there ,didn't work on mow cons , just tractors, round baler mixer grinders new sub to channel cheers from down under....
You did a great job!!!!
Appreciate all the effort, thanks from another small farmer in mn.
Hey James! Greetings to another fellow Minnesotan! Thanks for watching, and I hope it was helpful, insightful, or at least entertaining. ;0)
Thanks for your time helping others, you just saved me a ton of guessing and experimental work.
Also directing me to B&D for the rollers!!
And kudos to dad for his quiet help in the background, and the neat mustache!!🥸
Nice to see you and your dad playing well together . Great explanations . No longer to get in a bind bineing hay with your haybine . Great video 👍🇬🇧
Great job, thanks for taking the time to make this video - it will be a big help if I ever need to replace the rollers on my 474. So far the rollers are doing a decent job of crimping the hay since I reduced the number of spacer shims, but who knows for how long... it's a huge cost saving the longer you can keep these old machines running. Thanks again!
Great video! I have a NH 467 haybine that also needs new rollers. Your video gave me ideas on what I will need to do, albeit mine is a different model, I’m sure many of the principles are the same. I’d be too afraid to tackle the job except that your video gave me the confidence I will need. Thanks!
Good on you for taking this on. Many many machines have met with the scrap man due to bad rollers.
Thanks for this! There was no "conditioning" going on with the old rolls ;( That was an good solution for removal. This is why I like the hesston steel on ticor design! You will like the interlocking design of the new rolls and yes, hay conditioning will increase.
We actually went and looked at a used Hesston that was for sale at a very reasonable price. Of course, part of the reason it was affordable was that it was rather worn out, so we opted to pass on it. My general impression of Hesston haybines is that they’re simple, rugged, and well built.
Thanks guys ! I learned a lot from this video. Much appreciated
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for making the video!
Great how to video on switching crimpers. Crimpers look good but rubber always fades fast. As I have no hate on this. We take your 102” crimper put it in our lathe and take rubber off and put 1/2”x1” steel on. With doing this your hay product no matter what it may be dries in a faster time and crimps better. Again great how to video. Just for future thought we do the iron crimpers. Have a blessed day. From Michael’s welding and machine.
Outstanding video! Very well done in all respects. I own a similar NH haybine, a 472. Rollers are original and well worn. I've used tedding and patience as a substitute ... but sometimes being patient with drying an extra day results in rained-on hay. Weather in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia is highly changeable. Another problem I face with the haybine (even with a fresh cutter bar) is that in the spring the orchard grass often gets out of hand when the weather stays wet and cool, like this year. My fields are now really high (2-3 feet and deep green) and if I can mow them at all it will be with no tension on the rollers and the highest setting of the skid plates. This is where the $10,000 used disc mower makes the difference. One note about mold, which I experienced when I just got started at this kind of farming. After wasting some hay from mold, I bought a bale tester, which you can use to test one bale and see where you are. But by then you've already raked and drying isn't as fast in the windrows. There is also on the market a tester that will test moisture in loose hay that you stuff into a 5 gallon bucket -- following the exact instructions. I now use this on the tedded hay and don't dare rake and bale if it's telling me anything over about 25%, and that's cutting it close. I hate grinding up wet hay with the rotary mower, but it's better than hearing from an angry cattleman or horse operation about moldy bales.
We bought the bucket tester you mentioned. Worth every penny and already helped take some guesswork out of the process!
Excellent video. I just purchased a 461haybine so I’m looking at all the videos I can find on New Holland haybines
really fantastic detailed explanation
I have a John Deere 1219 Haybine, the rollers are fine but I have the new bearings for both rollers and this video contains some great advice. I myself have looked online and there is little to no information on this procedure, much thanks.
No problem! Hope it helps if there are some commonalities between the machines.
Great video about extending a Haybine life. LOL at the opinion of the metric system!
I can always count on Dad to play along when I put him on the spot!
Thanks for putting this on video and even the after market rollers. 3yrs old but we are still running a 492. I’m trying to get as much life out of it as possible, $20-$30k for a discbine isn’t in the forecast yet.
Hey KPVFarmer! Thanks for watching! I definitely hear you on the cost of a discbine. We've kicked it around as well, but for our acreage and hours of use each year it just makes more sense to keep the haybine tuned up and running.
How much did those rollers cost?
I called the company and got a quote a few years ago for my dads NH1411. They were somewhat cheaper than buying NH rolls from the dealer at that time. But even if they were 10-20% than factory rollers, the better conditioning should pay for itself.
Great video! I just picked up a 489 that’s got a lot of life left in it but as you said the forum’s make it sound impossible to replace the rollers and to just “junk it”.... I’d rather fix a $1,250 conditioner then go buy a $15,000 disc bine and have all the tools you have to do the same job. Thanks for the video and you should do a follow up to how you like those rollers compared to the factory chevron rollers. Thanks again!
Thanks Kyle! I’m glad it was helpful. These machines are definitely still useful for folks with smaller acreages. And you’re right, everyone seems to push for a disc bine these days, but the cost of one makes it tough to justify without a lot of acres to cut.
I did a review video on the Crusher rollers right after we put them in, but I should probably do another one now that we’ve been using them for a couple of years. They’re great! Holding up really well, and they reduced the drying time of our alfalfa by about 24 hours. The difference in grass hay isn’t as apparent, but that dries down relatively quickly anyway.
@@ravenviewfarm good to hear! I’ll dig through your channel to find the video
Thank you for the the informative video! Going to be doing rollers on a 1431 discbine soon
Dad has a side drawbar hitch1411, yours must be a 13ft center pivot model?
Love the video. Gonna do a NH 499 this spring. This really helps.
I'm glad to hear it! I was really hoping it would be helpful, since I had such a hard time finding any information before we tackled the job.
I've looked for quite a while for a video. Bought a used one to rob parts off of. We are just east of Cannon Falls MN.
Like the car market today, used Ag equipment has skyrocketed, IF you can find what you are looking for. I just found a JD 1209, first thing I looked at were the rollers and thankfully in good condition. The WB is tight too, everything else is minor compared to those two items. Great job explaining your methods. The reason the mechanic told you to do it his way, Time is Money. After doing a few, they know the tricks to work around taking the shroud off, that right there adds 60-90 minutes to the job. Cutting the bearings with a torch saves 30-90 minutes of work. Ask 10 mechanics the same question, you will get 10 different ways of doing something, it's just how we are and how our experiences are. Not a thing wrong with how you did it, and a MUCH safer method too. Mechanics don't get paid by the hour, but by the job, so if the job pays 6 hours, they try to do it in 5.
Right now I am rebuilding what I thought was a deal on an IH 35 side rake, would have been had I trailered it home, but the left hub ground the axle and the rachet hub down due to bad bushings. So my $650 rake has actually cost me $1450. However, the cheapest rake I found outside of this one was $1350 and also had wobbly hubs, no guarantee the same thing wouldnt happen. All the rest were $2K and up. Tough market out there. On the old rollers, did you sell them for scrap metal? 600 pounds of scrap metal puts a few $$ in your pocket rather than having them sit around rotting.
Awesome repair video, now you two can do this on the side. Thanks for sharing.
Oofda! Talk about your specialized services! If a neighbor in need asked me to help, I'd probably kick the dirt a little and reluctantly agree, but it's not the kind of job I want to advertise my skills for, LOL.
@@ravenviewfarm 😂
Thank you for the video, the wobble box that always goes bad, I have fixed and so far (4 years ) it held under heavy use
Oh man. That's my nightmare right there. Those things ain't cheap, and I'd like to make sure I get a few years of use and profit out of the haybine before we need to make another major repair. Glad to hear yours is holding up after the fix!
Thanks for filming this
You didn't ask Duke if he approved of you removing his sun shroud first thing :) I like your Dads words of wisdom "don't be too dumb" something we should probably all tell ourselves from time to time lol
Very nice video. It makes it seem more within reach of doing. I was hoping to see details on the bearing installation. I'm pulling apart my 479 to get a bad bearing off the lower roller on the open side. I'm wondering how to know I've got the replacement in the correct position on installation.
Well done. However with a torch, you burn off the bearing and then cut off the shaft with the torch once the bearing is out of the way. No "jelly arms". Those bearings are expensive. JD used the same ones in a big manure spreader and they're about 50 bucks cheaper. You just need to get the number off of it. Good job fixing it up, I never did like discbines.
Just started looking at TH-cam videos about these as I just bought a small farm, but in a previous career I worked with industrial paper-making equipment that used rubber coated rolls. There are companies that can recoat/recondition rubber coated rolls at a fraction of the cost of new ones, and a quick google search found companies that specifically mention haybine rolls.. Just a tip ... I almost yelled "No!" out loud when you said you were going to cut the end shafts on the originals.
I hear ya Mark. I looked up a bunch of information on re-coating rollers before we did the job, and really thought hard about doing it that way. The problem was that we needed it to be a relatively quick in-and-out job between crops, so we couldn't mess around with shipping rollers around the countryside and waiting for them to come back. And there was still the issue of getting those bearings off of the spindles
It's the old fast, cheap, good triangle of choices. You only get to pick two. We needed it fast and good, so we paid a premium for the new rollers and cranked out the job in the best way we knew how. And in the end, we sold a lot of really nice hay last year, and those new rollers have already paid for themselves.
For what it's worth, I didn't feel great about cutting those spindles off and turning the old rollers into junk either. I hate wasting anything. But I guess in this case we made the best call we could, and got down to business.
Good video and job !!
Now that you’ve had a few seasons on the rollers how do you like their wear and performance so far?
Are the new rollers rubber? We have the very same problem! Help!
Up against the bearings is that black collar with a set screw in them,are they threaded on?
Nice job w/ the video.
First time Ive ever seen a rubber pad bolted between to pieces of metal for shims ! 19:49
We bale 40 acres every year. Not much hay but something we do is salt our hay. Not sure if that would help you or not but salting helps prevent mold.
Great video, Isee its been some time since you have installed your B&D rollers. How are the rollers? does it take a day of drying? just curious
Hey Bryan! The rollers have held up really well so far. Granted, we only have about 14 acres of alfalfa and some meadow grass hay, so they get about 60 to 70 acres of use per year. I would say that they don't make a significant difference in grass hay, but in alfalfa they'll shave a whole day off of the drying time... IF... the conditions are right. Low humidity, some wind and sunshine, and a wide windrow all help a lot. This past summer we had a couple of occasions where we cut on a Sunday late morning, raked into a tighter windrow on Tuesday morning, and were baling by Tuesday afternoon. That makes some awfully nice green hay, I'll tell ya! But the conditions were about perfect in those cases.
Good job on the rollersDrank six PBR’s watching this made my cheeks pucker was afraid that somebody was going to pinch your fingers hate the pension fingers lol good job have you guys started harvest yet
Great job and great video , Do you have a contact I guess to purchase those rollers also what is a ballpark price to replace those two rollers thanks
Great job using the sawzill must have been tough
So did it hold up for a long time? Does it change dry time at all? How's the long term test?
Hey JMo! Yup, the B&D rollers are still going strong. They seem to be very sturdy and tough, as they don't have any damage or even discernible wear after a couple of years. Granted, we don't cut a ton of acres each year.
I believe that in good drying conditions - sunny with low humidity - these rollers shave a whole day of drying time off of our alfalfa. Grass hay isn't as big of a difference, but definitely better than our old worn-out rollers. Of course, if the weather doesn't cooperate it won't matter how well crimped the hay is, but that's always the case.
I'm happy with them! Would do it all over in a heartbeat!
Good job.
You need to put a Torch and an arbor press on your christmas list.
I need to put a decent machine shed/shop on my Christmas list! But with material prices where they're at, I'd happily settle for a torch and an arbor press. :0D
Good instructions what is the replacement roller company. Yall did a good job.
Thanks Dean! The company we got the replacement rollers from is B&D Rollers, out of Glenwood, MN.
Good stuff looks like quite a job ur the man
How’s the stems look with new rolls? Nice and flat?
Yep! The rollers crimp the stems every couple of inches, which really helps with letting the moisture out and getting faster dry down. Plus the bales end up feeling softer with the stems smashed, which I think makes the hay more appealing for my customers.
No need to remove shrouds . Remove the reel. Then remove the bolts from the ends on the hubs on the rolls. The rolls can fall out... of course....lifting them out.
I much enjoyed your video. Btw, Your dad rules. He makes that old IH look small...lol... What model is that. I have an old 666 that we just love and it has done everything we've asked of it from baling to snowblowing.
It's a 686, which is pretty much identical to your 666. They're great tractors!
I have gone as far as tedd hay 3 or 4 times to get it to dry faster
I'm looking for a farm in your area. What's the nearest town where you are?
Jordan, MN
Preservative
A+++
Can you please let us know how much B and D charged you ?$
It's been two years, so I'm not even sure anymore. I just know they were a few hundred dollars cheaper at that time than the chevron rollers from New Holland, and that I've been really happy with their performance, especially in alfalfa.
Call 'em up! They're good folks, and will gladly give you a current price quote for your particular machine. I'm sure they've gone up a bit, just like everything else these last years.
How much did these cost
I'd recommend giving B&D Rollers in Glenwood, MN a call. They're super nice folks, and will gladly give you a price quote.
@@ravenviewfarm I did end up calling and it is like $6600 , wayyyy more then the haybine is even worth lol
@@Imoto23 Well that's interesting. I don't remember exact figures, but I know when we did this job, the B&D rollers were about $400 cheaper than New Holland replacements. And while it was definitely an expensive job, it was nowhere near $6,600. We had considered buying another used haybine, but at that time used New Holland haybines were generally a couple thousand dollars more than the replacement rollers, and then you'd still have a used machine with unknown life remaining on the rollers, wobble box, etc. So we decided to stick with our machine and fix anything that needed attention.
But that was just the choice we made for our particular situation. Every farm is different.
I liked the whole video except the dog was using the shroud as an awning.
I have a NH 490
My goodness !!!! Hay is not drying ? Have you checked for spacers between the rolls ( on each end ) ???? At 4:42 seems like the spacers are still in ! Often haybines were shipped with the spacers in. They were meant for doing oats so the rolls woundnt know the oats off. 1/4 inch spacers. At 3:19 I can see day light between the rolls. This should not be ! Yes your rolls are in poor condition...but I doubt thats the problem at that point. You should not be able to pull a sheet of paper from between the rolls ! Then too.....you have the pressure at max on the rolls ? Many farmers bought a haybine and never read the operators manual and operated it for years never knowing the spacers were in. Should have just stuck with the sickle mower !
Interesting points. Dad and I would actually widen the gap even more when swathing oats between 2nd and 3rd cutting. Dad would push a round metal bar in between the rolls and then turn the rollers to advance the bar in some. Then my job was to add a small block of wood (shim) on each side so that there was a much larger gap between the crimpers. We reversed it back after oats and before 3rd crop. When dad upgraded to a discbine, he had to hire out for swathing oats. I believe he felt it was well worth it to hire a large cut SP swather and the discbine was awesome for the dairy.
I was thinking the NH chevron rolls are supposed to have a small gap (but not much) by design. Like a few millimeters, where as the BD rollers are touching.
@@lucasrabe Thanks......but its reality. Been to many sales and most of the " haybines " still have the spacers in them...........rusted in ! You are right..... put spacers in for oats.
Haybines can be fitted for spacers also. Takes a bit..but Ive done it....and it works.
@@lucasrabe Regardless....... what type of rolls they are. If your cutting hay the rolls are protected from even " touching " each other because there is hay moving through the rolls. Now if your going to run the haybine / disc bine for hours with no hay moving through. I can image the rolls " might " heat up a bit. But even then..... it should not cause a problem.
Even my boy bought a haybine. the spacings were almost a half inch between the rolls. I told him........go back the the machine shed.......use the torch and cut the shims out. You can see to the exact spot the difference in the " crimping " !
If a farmer wants to use a sickle mower.....have at it !
Why would you trash these they can recover those with new rubber for a lot less than new rollers and they are just as good as new ones!
Don’t cut your rollers out people unless you have money to burn!
I feel I need to address this comment. I clearly outlined in the video that this was only ONE way to get the job done. The mechanic at the dealership advised us to torch the bearings off and leave the spindles intact, and I included that description in the video. That wasn’t an option for us, so we chose a different method.
Our old rollers were shot, and we didn’t have the time or desire to ship them off to be re-covered and then have them shipped back to us. Also, we had already determined we wanted to buy and install the B&D rollers.
And as for the “money to burn” portion of this statement, it makes zero sense. We make and sell horse-quality small square bales as a significant part of our farm operation. As such, the new rollers have paid for themselves SEVERAL times over already. In fact, they paid for themselves in the first season we used them, and they will likely outlive the haybine.
If there are viewers watching this video and contemplating replacing their own rollers, I trust that they’re intelligent enough to decide which method to use based on their available time, tools, mechanical aptitude, budget, and intended use of the machine.
Its so obvious.....at 7:58 there are many shims between the rolls ! This is the primary reason your hay never dried ! Daylight between the rolls everywhere ! Cant crimp hay with that situation ! I had the same issue with my haybine. Had to replace the rolls. But in your situation the rolls were not that bad. The bottom roll would have done the job. Its in great condition. When done......consider removing all the shims !?!?
Cattle don't care about mold
That may be true, but we aren't making hay to feed to cattle. We make small square bales for the horse market, and those folks demand high quality.
Sorry.....shims should have never been in with either roll !
Fun stuff! I’m a geek, not a farmer, but do know how to do mechanical stuff. My farming is done with Farming Simulator, where I do prefer Haybines, the New Holland self-propelled mower/tedder/windrower, or an old sickle bar mower over the modern, plastic covered crap available in the base game.
Do you play on PC? I’ve played a few versions on mobile and it’s ok, but I’ve heard PC is the way to go? I also have it on Xbox, but was never very good at Xbox or Nintendo and such.
@@lucasrabe I use Macs, not PCs. FS on a computer is _much_ better than on some mobile device. A mouse and keyboard make all the difference. Gaming platforms aren't bad for FS, but they're limited in many ways compared to the options you can have on a real computer.