A few suggestions as a long time 50R shooter - get a an attachable hand grip for shooting handheld. Expose for the highlights - shadow recovery is phenomenal, highlight recovery is much worse.
Saw your posts on the GFX Facebook groups. For the file size, just shoot lossless compressed. No reason to shoot in uncompressed. As for the dynamic range, try turning on DR400. It does apply to RAWs but your minimum ISO will be 400. Love my Mitakon. Tried adapting other lenses like the Minolta 58mm 1.4 but the Mitakon is just way better. And with my mods on that lens (clicked aperture, reduced MFD), it's even better. Just really heavy so I was contemplating on replacing my 50R with a 50S II for the IBIS.
Very interesting! Is the DR setting proven to affect the raw files? As far as I was aware it was a HDR type setting that only affects the jpegs, raws are just raws surely? (Happy to be proven wrong!)
@@EddyMaynard It does. I've been using it on the X-Series too. The penalty is a bit more noise in the shadows but not that much and I actually like it since it feels more filmic. But it's not that noticeable really especially on the GFX. What it essentially does is the sensor captures the photo at 2 stops lower ISO (ISO 100 when the camera is set on ISO 400) and the camera just boosts the shadows and mids up by 2 stop. This is baked in the RAW file unlike similar DR functions on other brands that saves the RAW file that was actually captured and just adds metadata to let the editing app do the adjustments automatically in post. Fujifilm does it in camera. You can actually test it out easily by shooting at ISO 400 with DR100 and DR400. You'll be able to recover more highlights with DR400 on. Some would argue that you can just shoot at ISO 100 and boost the shadows and midtones in post but I like how Fujifilm does the boosting better IMO.
One thing I might add though is in terms of noise, some full frame cameras are actually cleaner than the GFX. The pixel pitch of the GFX 50 bodies are smaller than many 24MP full frame bodies. And the higher MP full frame bodies have newer tech too. That's why in low light during events, I actually gravitate towards my Nikons instead of the GFX. Not to mention the practically almost nonexistent AF of the 50R haha.
@@enshongmiranda okay this is news to me, thanks so much! Definitely going to shoot on 400 for a bit and see if that makes a big difference. Appreciate the advice! 🖤
Yes. I use DR400 on my X100V and it 100% applies to raw files. Your highlight slider becomes extremely powerful with this setting on. You can get some insane dynamic range. I leave the setting on and never turn it off. In fact you can completely blow out a photo and you THINK it's blown out, but when you edit the raw you can basically recover the whole pic. It's nuts.@@EddyMaynard
I've had this camera for about a year now and I really wanna get my hands on the 65mm mitakon but I'm very happy right now with the vintage adapted lenses that I had. Still suffers pretty heavily from some smearing and distortion at wider apertures but shooting at f11 makes it a very capable (and comparatively small) setup for photo walks. I've only used it much when I vacationed in Japan and its honestly not the most practical for everyday use but it is unparalleled in terms of "feel" for me. It's shortcomings and limitations make me feel so much more involved in the process of taking the picture, its a very unique and satisfying experience reviewing the pictures.
Bit of a tough crowd here Eddy, I don't understand half the hate and nitpicking in the comments. Anyway... I just wanted to say thank you for putting this video together. I, like you, am mostly interested in the GFX for the medium format look, but its surprising to me how rare it can be produced UNLESS using that Mitakon 65, which for me is a huge turn off because I lack the guts to use manual focus lenses on paid work. I already have a super unique and fast lens for X mount, the Kipon 40mm f0.85, but really the only action it sees is personal and creative work, it just doesn't earn its keep from a paid job perspective. I bail out every time and just use the 56/1.2 instead. I'm a little taken back that the GFX has so few LM glass and what native glass that does exist (despite the numbers) just seems to fall quite flat in producing that medium format look. I guess once the GFX is supported better and that there is a AF lens similar to the Mitakon 65 then I'll consider it a viable option. The Mitakon just hits differently with EVERY DAMN SHOT. I dunno if I can talk myself into a $5000 expenditure to getting a GFX body and GF80/1.7 to only feel that the look is there on a 1/3 of the shots taken...
Perhaps the Smallrig grip (with the wooden handle) would help with the ergonomics. I bought my 50R with the grip included and find it quite nice to hold 👍
Also, regarding lenses you could give the Pentax 77mm f1.8 Limited a try. I bought this lens because I wanted the Mitakon look without the size and weight. I'm really enjoying it, at half the price and a quarter of the weight of the Mitakon 💪
I did see this, but i think the wood looks a little cheap on it from looking at photos. Whats it like in real life? Does it look like real quality wood? Also not heard of that lens, but it looks very cool! Might see if i can get my hands on one in the future, thanks :)
I love that you’ve bought the 50R…i just bought the 100s and I love mine as well. it basically has slowed my shooting down, made me reflect more before shooting. Still have me xh2 which might be sold
a lot of full frame lenses will cover the full sensor too for times where the weight becomes too much of an inconvenience! even my minolta 28mm 2.8 covers the full sensor in the 65:24 crop mode
I’ve got the Minolta 58mm 1.2 and it works pretty well! But I still prefer the look of the mikaton 65mm. Will check out the 28mm though since I have the Minolta adapter anyway, thank you! The 65:24 crop is a lot of fun 😁
I have the 50SII and it is a very nice camera. I love the resolution and the color rendition straight out of the camera. It is a bit more ergonomic than the R but is still a heavy beast. I have two Fuji lenses for it, the kit lens 35-70 and the 100-200. I also have an adapter that lets me use my Hasselblad 500 series lenses. Overall a very nice system
I was hoping I could ask a few questions on the 50.2. I am looking at that camera, I have a R6 and X-H2, I have just fallen in love with the Fuji system. I have watched numerous reviews on the 50.2 and the AF seems to be gripe. This is more about portrait and wanting to shoot wide open. Have you shot any portrait works at F8-F9 that eye af isn’t needed. What about non people landscape/architecture? I get the feeling it’s more like DSLR type AF vs “mirrorless”, would you agree?. TIA Mike.
The auto focus while good and accurate is slow. I find myself using manual focus with focus peaking, or do they call it focus assist, turned on. I have the AF button set to auto focus so when I’m in manual focus I hit the AF button to auto focus and then use the manual focus to adjust if necessary. The TH-cam site pal2tech had a great video about setting up back button focus on Fuji cameras. It has made my using the 50S2 much easier. I find that f5.6 to about f11 to be the sweet spot for sharpness edge to edge but they have nice falloff and bokeh when shooting wide open. I do most scenic and nature with mine so the lack of a faster focus isn’t as big a deal for me. I use my Canon and Nikon for faster moving subjects. The only real complaint I have is the menu system. It is the hardest to use of any camera I’ve ever owned and I’ve been shooting since 1970. They use a menu within a menu that makes finding something quickly next to impossible
Nice video. -It is actually made of Metal.. the top plate, and most other parts as well. -I don't share your opinion about the dynamic range. I find that it has more dynamic range than most full even at the current state of full frames.. I think just judging the dynamic range on how it handles blowen highlights is a bit simple. Try finetuning tonality in the light "non blowen out parts" and you will find that stuff like light skin-tones is on an other world (FF-MF) edit-option-wise. -Most people (my self included, in the begining) sort of get the whole Medium Format look and how it compares to full frame on a bokeh level.. a bit wrong. Its not so much about blowing the background to smithereens, You can do that with a FF 50 1.2. its. I has more to do with being able to separate your in-focus subject WITH out having to totally butter out the background. One lens that does this very will is the 45mm 2.8.. But you are right about the ability to create a portrait on a wide view without having wide angle distortion and such.
I have the same setup with mitakon and an old pentax 50 1.7 lens since 2020. After years with GFX100S and Fujinon GF 80 1.7 the mitakon and 50R is still the best.
I'm excited to own my dream camera tomorrow. I've always wanted something to slow down my photography. Perhaps something like a Leica. Love my Nikon ZF, but I miss that RF experience. The 50R won't be replacing any of my cameras, but it will let me enjoy another way of shooting.
I had one and then a GFX100 for a couple of years. Used for landscape photography the IQ was nothing short of superb. I had to swap for a smaller system as I could no longer carry the weight of the MF kit. I do miss the images I could get with it.
I’ve see a video comparing the 50R\S and the A7R 4 and the Fuji keeps color on dynamic range just a bit better. But I think you’d need to use capture one.
I think my dynamic range settings were wrong when shooting the images of that car, someone in these comments pointed out that the DR values in the camera affect the raw files, which i didnt know! So going to experiment more! Will report back in a future video 🫡
It’s odd how the 50R is commanding the same used price as the 50Sii. It’s the rangefinder design. The lack of IBIS is *brutal* hand held though. Grab the 35-70 kit or the 50mm 3.5 - those weight problems will go away. You owe it to yourself to check out the 100S. I’ve recovered 4 stops, easy. Makes Sony DR look average.
I’ll be honest, the rangefinder style design is what sold it to me, I think it looks so cool, and makes me want to shoot with it a lot more. Agree about ibis, it would be handy!
@jawninjon I’ve found the complete opposite, a7iv dynamic range is phenomenal, the key is shooting uncompressed raw. Lossless compressed is definitely not lossless. Since I switched to uncompressed, it’s basically impossible to under or overexpose so much you can’t save the shot (unless you’re really trying)
Have you considered back button focus. Then the small frame makes more sense. You focus with the focus frame, and pressing the shutter will only take the picture while you see the complete picture.
do you mean de-coupling the focus from the shutter? i tried this and it still didnt work, it still removed the zoomed in bit on a shutter half-press which is annoying!
I've been thinking about getting this camera many times but haven't been 100% convinced. With the Q2 I can get something similar shooting wide open. It's not as pronounced yet you still get the shallow depth of field yet wide angle look which is amazing. I can easily use the Q2 alongside my Canon system for work. Idk the GFX is just too specialised to justify spending the money since I wouldn't want to carry it and it's not suited for the type of work I do either. Still a great camera tho. Appreciate the honest review.
I agree! unless you really want this 'look', you can get 90% of the same thing on cameras that weigh less, are more advanced, have cheaper lenses (even Leica lenses are cheaper than gfx lenses)... Theres a new feature in Lightroom too called 'Lens Blur' which basically adds fake bokeh. Its a little janky at the moment, but once the tech gets better you'll be able to get the same look on any camera, not that Im a fan of the fakery, I do think its a bit cheesy and lame haha but the fact is that people will use it and this 'medium format look' will not look as unique as it currently does. That being said, I am enjoying using this, and Its a really cool piece of technology. I dont regret buying it! Definitely have a try of someone's if you can, its a cool experience.
My experience with the dynamic range is compeletely opposite. I find the GFX has more dynamic range than the fullframe cameras. Something is wrong with your setting I think.
@@kristoffergo6294 I’ll give it a go! I only shoot uncompressed on Sony because it makes a huge difference from lossless compressed, especially when recovering shadows and highlights, so I’m sort of just in the habit of it from that! Will give it a go though, not tried lossless compressed on the fuji. Thanks!
Regarding the dynamic range. It’s not you or the sensor, it’s Lightroom. Give Capture One a try and I think you will be pleased. Also the Small Rig grip really helps me hang on to the camera.
I've also wanted this setup for a long time, but ended up going with the Pentax 67. So far the only part I'm really envying you on is how much lighter your setup is vs mine lol. Sick shots and dope outbreak hoodie btw.
Thanks very much mate!! Nothing will ever match the look of the 67 😁 so there’s that! Film feels a lot more special. But yeah I don’t think I could carry a 67 everywhere everyday haha.
I like your vid, but you are not doing yourself or the camera any favors by shooting with the heavy MF Mitakon, when the camera is designed to shoot autofocus/focusstacking with native lenses, which in fact are also relatively light and fast. I have been using the 50r with the 32-64mm, the 50mm, the 63mm, the 80mm and the 110mm for nearly 3 years now and its an absolute workhorse. The dynamic range is also way way better than sony in my opinion. Remember also that the aperture on medium format translates differently to that of say a fullframe camera. You should try it with some native lenses!
I agree its a heavy combo, but its the only combo that gives me the 'medium format look' that im looking for. Any other 'look' that i want, i can just use my sony system for that i have a bunch of 1.4 lenses for, so its hard to justify spending the money on gfx glass. If it was my only camera i would though!
I sold my 50R as I couldn't get on with the ergonomics (even though I happily shoot an X-pro2, which has the same rangefinder styling). Regarding dynamic range, I think the camera's superpower is in shadow recovery rather than highlights, so I found just making sure not to over-expose the highlights and not worrying about the shadows worked well. I am missing the look of the GFX files and am contemplating picking up a used 50S to replace the 50R.
I got the smallrig wooden handle and it makes the WORLD of difference! And yeah I’ve also found the same with the shadows vs highlight recovery. Feel very differently about this camera now 6 months later! Need to do a second review
Cameras are supposed to be held by the lens with your left hand, and give support and stability with your right hand, they are not made to be one handed. That's the way people where taught in the past when most cameras where heavy and you had to manual focus.
Yes, same with this since it’s manual focus too, but when I’m not shooting and just want to carry it casually by my side, it’s not possible without being uncomfortable. It is possible with every other camera I own though, most have a hand grip for your right hand, but this does not. Thanks so much for watching :)
Hi there! I have a tip for you to dramatically improve your ergonomics: get a (wood+metal) grip from Small Rig. Makes all the difference (I often shoot with a 110, which is similar in weight to your 65).
A great, realistic first look, thanks. GFX vs Sony full frame files, I'd say this: on GFX you'll need to be more careful with highlights, but the shadow detail on the GFX files is incredible and there's almost no noise penalty when you push shadows. That's where the big gains are on the GFX system, other than the beautiful way that colours are handled.
Thanks for watching!! Used this camera a lot more and you’re dead right about the highlights, been underexposing a stop or even two and getting really great results. Appreciate the comment! 😌
@@EddyMaynard The 50R brochure says the “body” is magnesium alloy. According to Wikipedia, magnesium is the lightest structural metal. My guess is the top is magnesium and then the rest of the body is a mix of metals, aka alloy. I’m not trying to “TH-cam correct” you, I just didn’t want you to this was camera was somehow lesser than other cameras.
I understand you coming from a digital Sony and wanting more dynamic range, however, I feel like that amount of pulling of highlights remind me more of HDR photography, which is so far away from the analogue experience. As someone who has shot A LOT of film photography, borh 35mm and medium format, it's not like you don't have blown highlights on film. It happens a lot, actually, because you have to expose your frame correctly. Some situation really don't work. That being said, I couldn't be more thrilled with the dynamic range for the 50r. It's natural and magical, without being HDRish. Just my two cents.
The manual focus view acne be changed with a button press, and honestly GF glass is one of the primary reasons for this system. If you're only shooting manual third party glass, you're missing out...
As far as I’m aware fuji have said they’re discontinuing the R Line, but since it’s still a popular camera maybe they’ll change their mind! They’re announcing three new cameras on the 20th this month 🤞
This was informative/helpful. I'm looking into getting a new camera (I've always shot Nikon), but I'm not sure I'm on board, yet, with the Z series. I'm considering the D850 cause it holds up quite well, but I've always wanted a digital camera that does give that "film" look. I've been doing research/comparisons and I'm not entirely convinced by the quality of some of these mirrorless cameras (mainly regarding lower light situations with high ISO). I don't want to compromise on image quality. I feel a lot of the perks, especially of these new mirrorless, offer fast auto-focus with fast shutter speed, which is nice, as long as it doesn't take away from the integrity of the image. Any thoughts? Eddy I saw you mentioned the Fuji 100v...
Image quality is incredibly poor compared to this and it just doesn’t look the same unfortunately. The more I’m using it the more I realise the medium format sensor in the 50r has a really unique look. I guess for instagram and stuff you probably wouldn’t notice a huge difference though so a 50 0.95 on FF would be a great budget alternative.
Not a hater. But as a former photographer Ive traveled hiked and done bikepacking and even a couple of self supported travels in difficult condition carrying 4+ kilos of camera equipment. Being this 900 gram body a normal thing. I find funny how times have changed and you don't see this camera as something you would carry everyday because of weight, and I've been doing just that half of my life 😅. Nice video and nice camera, I find the other body (you can look up down, like old Hasselblads) much more comfortable to hold and funnier to use because of the viewfinder. It's a different experience, I recommend to you. Have fun!
Thanks for posting this review Eddy, appreciate everything you've been sharing. I hope you don't mind for asking such a novice question, but did it came with the lightroom presets for the GFX, or was that something you found, or made on your own? -currently trying to find options for it
Thanks very much! The fuji camera matching profiles are already built into lightroom, they just 'unlock' when youre using a relevant camera (such as this one). Hope that helps!
I feel like you are missing another point in your video. Aperture. Saying most lenses are over 3.5, when the standard lens is 2.8, okay.... But another point to take in is that on medium format, the aperture cannot be compared to 35mm 1:1. 1,4 on a Sony a7s is not the same as 1.4 on a GFX. Sure, the amount of light is the same, but the depth of field is way different! I have a Mamiya 80mm 1.9 that I use on my Fuji, however, I can never shoot at 1.9 because it is waaaaay to shallow.
@@christianklintholm yes I absolutely agree however, for example, the 50mm 3.5 converted to ‘full frame’ would be a 40mm f2.77 equivalent, (so 2.8 basically) which is still not a shallow DOF lens. For me (which I know isn’t the same for most people) I want to shoot medium format for the shallow DOF. A 40mm f2.8 on full frame would give me the same DOF, which is nothing crazy. The voigtlander 40mm 1.2 would be MUCH shallower and is a vastly smaller setup on a body like a Sony a7 On the other hand, the mitakon 65mm would give an equivalent of 51mm f1.1 on full frame, which is VERY shallow, which contributes to that ‘medium format look’, which is why I say the GF lenses don’t really appeal to me (with the exception of the f1.7 lenses, but the mitakon is 60-70% cheaper than those)
@@EddyMaynard It depends on what you mean, when you talk about "the medium format look". I would personally guess/assume that you are thinking about that distinct Pentax 67 105mm takumar look. And if that is the case, then it doesn't really make sense to compare the DOF to a 50mm 3.5 (which I own myself). That's just plain apples and oranges to me. Btw, the legendary 105 lens is "only" 2.4 aperture, but because of the focal length it is easier to get that shallow DOP you are searching for. If you want the seperation, then the 80mm (either Pentax or Mamiya) makes a lot of sense, it would look even better than the 65mm. But other than that, yeah a lot of people on a budget should perhaps just think about keeping their Sony systems and exploit huge lens range.
It is somewhat subjective, I know, but I like using the Hasselblad XD (X1Dii or X2D) far better. Notice I wrote "using" as it is important. If you look the specs sheet, the Fuji brick has a longer one. Pluses of the Hasselblads: ergonomics, solid built Metal, not "good quality looking plastic" ;o), simplicity of menus and use, color straight out of the camera. [I am a photographer who takes photographs, I do not want to spend any time doing videos or roaming across a landscape of customizations and menu options I have no use for, but it is just me, I know]. PS: the "medium-format" look comes from the size of the sensor.
The MF look comes from sensor size AND lens used. Of you shot at F8 on this camera, it will not have a MF look at all. The sensor is not much bigger than full frame so the MF look is questionable. It's in between 6x4.5 and 35mm film size. You won't get the look of 6x7 or 6x6 with this.
Frankly I get a better look than on the 6x7 (Mamiya) and 6x6 I have used (Hasselblad and Mamiya) without the issues that come with film either BW or color.
It's to be expected for a camera with a larger sensor to be heavier. Cut corners with the build quality to save weight and you get comments like "it feels cheap and plasticky". I agree the grip could be bigger, but a bigger grip will add more weight. All the best.
I agree! This is just a first impressions video and to be honest the weight is more a complaint of the lens more than anything. I actually got a smallrig wooden grip yesterday and it massively helps, I think the actual lack of ergonomics on the body is the issue to be honest, but the smallrig grip sorts this. Full review coming somepoint soon anyway! Thanks for watching :)
Just got the smallrig grip today and this massively helps with the grip! Still wouldnt want to carry it handheld all day mind. Ibis would be handy with it being so heavy!
@jay-jb2vr Because film with developing and scanning costs about £1 a shot, so once ive got 1250 photos on the gfx its paid for itself! (i do also shoot film, but its expensive and i cant always afford it)
I watched this video on because I was curious about the Mitakon. Regarding the Sony files being better, I have to disagree. The Fuji files are the first raw files where it's felt like anything is possible, not to mention the color.
It's like a digital version of the Texas Leica, the Fuji GW690. Sublime photos but not a camera you'd associate with being portable. Horses for courses.
You can't expect a medium format anything to be particularly compact, unless you take into account a rangefinder camera such as the Mamiya 6. In the medium format territory, yes, THAT camera is indeed portable ... just like these new Fuji medium format digital cameras are portable, particularly when compared to digital cameras which are NOT mirror-less cameras like the Fuji is. Fuji kicks ass above all others, and very easily outsells them ALL. Just imagine - you actually get BOTH a seriously great camera, and at a price which doesn't rob the bank, in many cases a tiny fraction the price of the competition. Buying some of those is as stupid as buying a Leica which is seriously no better than the best equivalent Nikon camera. Some people have a goal of just owning the most expensive item, and not necessarily the best and most practical item.
potentially yes! could also be the DR setting in camera like someone mentioned in these comments, im going to experiment and will report back when i do a longer term review 🫡
The lens you use has no impact on the highlights or shadows, that's only impacted by the sensor you use and what exposure. Except maybe if you use an older lens with much lower contrast - maybe full of dust or just low contrast wide open - so you actual have better DR. So I doubt the native lenses will have "bad" contrast that give you smoother highlights.
@@EddyMaynard wow i think it's a bargain for a digital medium format. i'm just a bit perplexed about the dynamic range. May it work better in Capture One?
I was about to buy one this evening. Im not sure now. The size a weight doesn't bother me but DR does. I must say the images look great though. Thanks for giving me a bigger dilemma 😂
After a few more months of using it I can confirm the DR is actually great, it was my fault. there’s a setting to increase it on the camera (DR400) and I had my dynamic range turned down to the minimum (DR100), didn’t realise at all. Id say it’s on par with the sony now for sure
@@Chum_chumi it would be very handy considering the weight of this setup, it’s ‘okay’ without it but I wouldn’t want to shoot at less than 1/80, think you’d struggle handheld.
Hey! I dont own any autofocus lenses for the gfx, theyre all too expensive to justify buying when this is just a camera i have for fun, im not using it for paid work. As far as im aware though, the autofocus on the 50r isnt great.
My take on this, after considering the camera. 50Mp is not much more than the top full frame cameras. Lower even. The 51MP sensor is more than a decade old now - first used in 2014. Like you mentioned, most native AF lenses are not fast (aperture) and you need to adapt to get that thin dof. On a full frame, you can go with fast reliable AF and a 35mm F1.2 and there are a multitude of options available that go to F1.0 or even lower. The "MF" look you describe can be accomplished with a full frame Laowa 35mm F0.95 or 40mm 0.95. Or 35mm F1.2 if you want AF. About the ergonomics, I recommend going for the wooden grip. Won't bring the weight down of course :) That said, It's a shame Fuji didn't come with a successor to this. With an up to date sensor - doesn't even have to be 100MP, but with faster operation and IBIS of course. But I still might go for it, if I find a 50R at a good price. Working with a full kit Nikon Z professionally, I have a Fuji X-E3 with small manual and most importantly, imperfect lenses for personal work and fun, using it for the same purpose as your 50R. And I love it.
I have this camera and lens and I can’t figure out how to get the mini zoom screen for manual focussing. I’ve read the manual, I feel like I’ve been through every setting in the focus menu. What am I doing wrong?
as @enshongmiranda said, put af to M and press disp/back. If it doesnt work, maybe you're on an older firmware? im not sure which one this is on, its just the one it came with when i bought it second hand, but i know theres been a few updates.
hello! yes, after more testing ive found that to be true. my issue was i was using DR100, after shooting on DR400 the Dynamic range is much better. This was just a first impressions video, ive changed a lot of my opinions on the camera since, will be making a longer term review in a few months time :)
@@-_ch40s_ maybe the a7iv has more DR than the Rv then, or maybe I just picked some bad examples, but the highlight recovery on my a7iv seems to be much better than the GFX at iso 100 in my testing. Maybe the GFX pulls shadows better? Either way they’re both great 🤷♂️
No, I probably wouldnt buy another GFX to be honest, if i wanted the extreme resolution id get a a7Rv as its a much more advanced camera and unless i was shooting on this mitakon lens, it would give me basically the exact same look as GFX lenses. I do love this setup for the look that it gives though.
Will definitely try and sort something like that! I think the equivalent lens on FF for the mitakon would be a 50mm 1.1! Might have to borrow someone’s 50 1.2 G master and see if it looks the same. Would have to be something like a 35mm f0.95 on apsc 😂
Dood, that Mitakon weighs over a kilo - 50% more than the body! Of course the ergonomics are f!cked. You def. need the baseplate with the grip. I'm curious - why don't you mount your Minolta 58 1.2 on the GFX? Cheers.
For sure yeah! But for me this was my dream setup so the review is based on that, not just the gfx itself. I will be doing a full review at some point, this was just a quick first impressions vid. I’ve tried the Minolta, it looks kinda cool but the vignetting is not great and it definitely doesn’t have the ‘medium format’ compression with the edges being smudgy and the bokeh being a little bit swirly. It works well for the panoramic crop though, the shot at 0:34 was with the Minolta, as is the shot at 8:00 of my cat :)
You don’t get why the box disappears? Because it takes a photo, the shutter closes, box gets dark. Also you focus before you press the shutter, so what the problem?
@@EddyMaynard this two screens in one is meant for manual focus. Why would you half press the shutter with a manual focus lens? The Mitakon is a manual focus lens. I don’t get it.
@@juliussternfeld428 you have to half press it to press it all the way, and like I said in the video pressing it hard (to do a full press) introduces slight camera shake at slow shutter speeds. So to press it slowly and carefully you have to half press first
Theyre slightly off but id definitely look into learning how to use HSL sliders & RGB tone curves, with a small amount of tweaking you'll be able to get the look you want pretty easily!
Hi! 😌 Medium format look refers to the typical ‘look’ of classic medium format film shots - a wide field of view with shallow depth of field. This is much easier achieved on a sensor as big as the gfx, but can technically be achieved on a full frame camera with a super wide aperture lens (50mm f0.95 for example) Thanks for watching and commenting, massively helps the algorithm ❤️
A few suggestions as a long time 50R shooter - get a an attachable hand grip for shooting handheld. Expose for the highlights - shadow recovery is phenomenal, highlight recovery is much worse.
Saw your posts on the GFX Facebook groups. For the file size, just shoot lossless compressed. No reason to shoot in uncompressed. As for the dynamic range, try turning on DR400. It does apply to RAWs but your minimum ISO will be 400. Love my Mitakon. Tried adapting other lenses like the Minolta 58mm 1.4 but the Mitakon is just way better. And with my mods on that lens (clicked aperture, reduced MFD), it's even better. Just really heavy so I was contemplating on replacing my 50R with a 50S II for the IBIS.
Very interesting! Is the DR setting proven to affect the raw files? As far as I was aware it was a HDR type setting that only affects the jpegs, raws are just raws surely? (Happy to be proven wrong!)
@@EddyMaynard It does. I've been using it on the X-Series too. The penalty is a bit more noise in the shadows but not that much and I actually like it since it feels more filmic. But it's not that noticeable really especially on the GFX. What it essentially does is the sensor captures the photo at 2 stops lower ISO (ISO 100 when the camera is set on ISO 400) and the camera just boosts the shadows and mids up by 2 stop. This is baked in the RAW file unlike similar DR functions on other brands that saves the RAW file that was actually captured and just adds metadata to let the editing app do the adjustments automatically in post. Fujifilm does it in camera. You can actually test it out easily by shooting at ISO 400 with DR100 and DR400. You'll be able to recover more highlights with DR400 on. Some would argue that you can just shoot at ISO 100 and boost the shadows and midtones in post but I like how Fujifilm does the boosting better IMO.
One thing I might add though is in terms of noise, some full frame cameras are actually cleaner than the GFX. The pixel pitch of the GFX 50 bodies are smaller than many 24MP full frame bodies. And the higher MP full frame bodies have newer tech too. That's why in low light during events, I actually gravitate towards my Nikons instead of the GFX. Not to mention the practically almost nonexistent AF of the 50R haha.
@@enshongmiranda okay this is news to me, thanks so much! Definitely going to shoot on 400 for a bit and see if that makes a big difference. Appreciate the advice! 🖤
Yes. I use DR400 on my X100V and it 100% applies to raw files. Your highlight slider becomes extremely powerful with this setting on. You can get some insane dynamic range. I leave the setting on and never turn it off. In fact you can completely blow out a photo and you THINK it's blown out, but when you edit the raw you can basically recover the whole pic. It's nuts.@@EddyMaynard
I've had this camera for about a year now and I really wanna get my hands on the 65mm mitakon but I'm very happy right now with the vintage adapted lenses that I had. Still suffers pretty heavily from some smearing and distortion at wider apertures but shooting at f11 makes it a very capable (and comparatively small) setup for photo walks. I've only used it much when I vacationed in Japan and its honestly not the most practical for everyday use but it is unparalleled in terms of "feel" for me. It's shortcomings and limitations make me feel so much more involved in the process of taking the picture, its a very unique and satisfying experience reviewing the pictures.
Bit of a tough crowd here Eddy, I don't understand half the hate and nitpicking in the comments.
Anyway... I just wanted to say thank you for putting this video together. I, like you, am mostly interested in the GFX for the medium format look, but its surprising to me how rare it can be produced UNLESS using that Mitakon 65, which for me is a huge turn off because I lack the guts to use manual focus lenses on paid work. I already have a super unique and fast lens for X mount, the Kipon 40mm f0.85, but really the only action it sees is personal and creative work, it just doesn't earn its keep from a paid job perspective. I bail out every time and just use the 56/1.2 instead.
I'm a little taken back that the GFX has so few LM glass and what native glass that does exist (despite the numbers) just seems to fall quite flat in producing that medium format look. I guess once the GFX is supported better and that there is a AF lens similar to the Mitakon 65 then I'll consider it a viable option. The Mitakon just hits differently with EVERY DAMN SHOT. I dunno if I can talk myself into a $5000 expenditure to getting a GFX body and GF80/1.7 to only feel that the look is there on a 1/3 of the shots taken...
Perhaps the Smallrig grip (with the wooden handle) would help with the ergonomics. I bought my 50R with the grip included and find it quite nice to hold 👍
Also, regarding lenses you could give the Pentax 77mm f1.8 Limited a try. I bought this lens because I wanted the Mitakon look without the size and weight. I'm really enjoying it, at half the price and a quarter of the weight of the Mitakon 💪
I did see this, but i think the wood looks a little cheap on it from looking at photos. Whats it like in real life? Does it look like real quality wood?
Also not heard of that lens, but it looks very cool! Might see if i can get my hands on one in the future, thanks :)
@@EddyMaynard the handle looks quite nice in practice, gives the camera a more vintage look and it’s very comfortable.
@@wjennekens just ordered this, arriving on Monday 😁
@@EddyMaynard I'm sure you will enjoy it!
I love that you’ve bought the 50R…i just bought the 100s and I love mine as well. it basically has slowed my shooting down, made me reflect more before shooting. Still have me xh2 which might be sold
100s files must be incredible to work with! Wish they made a rangefinder style 100r…
a lot of full frame lenses will cover the full sensor too for times where the weight becomes too much of an inconvenience! even my minolta 28mm 2.8 covers the full sensor in the 65:24 crop mode
I’ve got the Minolta 58mm 1.2 and it works pretty well! But I still prefer the look of the mikaton 65mm. Will check out the 28mm though since I have the Minolta adapter anyway, thank you! The 65:24 crop is a lot of fun 😁
I have the 50SII and it is a very nice camera. I love the resolution and the color rendition straight out of the camera. It is a bit more ergonomic than the R but is still a heavy beast. I have two Fuji lenses for it, the kit lens 35-70 and the 100-200. I also have an adapter that lets me use my Hasselblad 500 series lenses. Overall a very nice system
I was hoping I could ask a few questions on the 50.2. I am looking at that camera, I have a R6 and X-H2, I have just fallen in love with the Fuji system. I have watched numerous reviews on the 50.2 and the AF seems to be gripe. This is more about portrait and wanting to shoot wide open. Have you shot any portrait works at F8-F9 that eye af isn’t needed. What about non people landscape/architecture? I get the feeling it’s more like DSLR type AF vs “mirrorless”, would you agree?. TIA Mike.
The auto focus while good and accurate is slow. I find myself using manual focus with focus peaking, or do they call it focus assist, turned on. I have the AF button set to auto focus so when I’m in manual focus I hit the AF button to auto focus and then use the manual focus to adjust if necessary. The TH-cam site pal2tech had a great video about setting up back button focus on Fuji cameras. It has made my using the 50S2 much easier. I find that f5.6 to about f11 to be the sweet spot for sharpness edge to edge but they have nice falloff and bokeh when shooting wide open. I do most scenic and nature with mine so the lack of a faster focus isn’t as big a deal for me. I use my Canon and Nikon for faster moving subjects. The only real complaint I have is the menu system. It is the hardest to use of any camera I’ve ever owned and I’ve been shooting since 1970. They use a menu within a menu that makes finding something quickly next to impossible
Nice video.
-It is actually made of Metal.. the top plate, and most other parts as well.
-I don't share your opinion about the dynamic range. I find that it has more dynamic range than most full even at the current state of full frames.. I think just judging the dynamic range on how it handles blowen highlights is a bit simple. Try finetuning tonality in the light "non blowen out parts" and you will find that stuff like light skin-tones is on an other world (FF-MF) edit-option-wise.
-Most people (my self included, in the begining) sort of get the whole Medium Format look and how it compares to full frame on a bokeh level.. a bit wrong. Its not so much about blowing the background to smithereens, You can do that with a FF 50 1.2. its. I has more to do with being able to separate your in-focus subject WITH out having to totally butter out the background. One lens that does this very will is the 45mm 2.8.. But you are right about the ability to create a portrait on a wide view without having wide angle distortion and such.
I have the same setup with mitakon and an old pentax 50 1.7 lens since 2020. After years with GFX100S and Fujinon GF 80 1.7 the mitakon and 50R is still the best.
its a great combo! im sure the 80mm is amazing too, just out of my price range when the gfx isnt my main cam!
Why is that? Doesn't the 100s have a better shutter, stabilization, etc...?
I'm excited to own my dream camera tomorrow. I've always wanted something to slow down my photography. Perhaps something like a Leica. Love my Nikon ZF, but I miss that RF experience. The 50R won't be replacing any of my cameras, but it will let me enjoy another way of shooting.
I had one and then a GFX100 for a couple of years. Used for landscape photography the IQ was nothing short of superb.
I had to swap for a smaller system as I could no longer carry the weight of the MF kit. I do miss the images I could get with it.
The best GFX camera - In 10 years and more this camera still fantastic like old film camera. Medium format is medium format, that's all.
I’ve see a video comparing the 50R\S and the A7R 4 and the Fuji keeps color on dynamic range just a bit better. But I think you’d need to use capture one.
I think my dynamic range settings were wrong when shooting the images of that car, someone in these comments pointed out that the DR values in the camera affect the raw files, which i didnt know! So going to experiment more! Will report back in a future video 🫡
It’s odd how the 50R is commanding the same used price as the 50Sii. It’s the rangefinder design. The lack of IBIS is *brutal* hand held though. Grab the 35-70 kit or the 50mm 3.5 - those weight problems will go away.
You owe it to yourself to check out the 100S. I’ve recovered 4 stops, easy. Makes Sony DR look average.
I’ll be honest I’ve never understood the praising of Sony DR, it’s absolutely atrocious compared to most other companies by a long shot.
I’ll be honest, the rangefinder style design is what sold it to me, I think it looks so cool, and makes me want to shoot with it a lot more. Agree about ibis, it would be handy!
@jawninjon I’ve found the complete opposite, a7iv dynamic range is phenomenal, the key is shooting uncompressed raw. Lossless compressed is definitely not lossless. Since I switched to uncompressed, it’s basically impossible to under or overexpose so much you can’t save the shot (unless you’re really trying)
@@GrainOnTheGothat’s just factually incorrect and I shoot Fuji exclusively…
Have you considered back button focus. Then the small frame makes more sense. You focus with the focus frame, and pressing the shutter will only take the picture while you see the complete picture.
do you mean de-coupling the focus from the shutter? i tried this and it still didnt work, it still removed the zoomed in bit on a shutter half-press which is annoying!
@@EddyMaynard Yes I mean that. My idea was that the vanishing focus frame does not matter, once you focussed.
I've been thinking about getting this camera many times but haven't been 100% convinced. With the Q2 I can get something similar shooting wide open. It's not as pronounced yet you still get the shallow depth of field yet wide angle look which is amazing. I can easily use the Q2 alongside my Canon system for work. Idk the GFX is just too specialised to justify spending the money since I wouldn't want to carry it and it's not suited for the type of work I do either.
Still a great camera tho. Appreciate the honest review.
I agree! unless you really want this 'look', you can get 90% of the same thing on cameras that weigh less, are more advanced, have cheaper lenses (even Leica lenses are cheaper than gfx lenses)... Theres a new feature in Lightroom too called 'Lens Blur' which basically adds fake bokeh. Its a little janky at the moment, but once the tech gets better you'll be able to get the same look on any camera, not that Im a fan of the fakery, I do think its a bit cheesy and lame haha but the fact is that people will use it and this 'medium format look' will not look as unique as it currently does.
That being said, I am enjoying using this, and Its a really cool piece of technology. I dont regret buying it! Definitely have a try of someone's if you can, its a cool experience.
True. It's a camera that's hard to justify on paper, yet you still want it. Would love to try it out someday. Enjoy yours! @@EddyMaynard
My experience with the dynamic range is compeletely opposite. I find the GFX has more dynamic range than the fullframe cameras. Something is wrong with your setting I think.
It does have a LOT of dynamic range, but uncompressed raw on the sony cameras is on another level, I think I’m just more used to that.
@@EddyMaynard I see:) and BTW it's ok to shoot compressed/lossless compressed on the GFX.
@@kristoffergo6294 I’ll give it a go! I only shoot uncompressed on Sony because it makes a huge difference from lossless compressed, especially when recovering shadows and highlights, so I’m sort of just in the habit of it from that! Will give it a go though, not tried lossless compressed on the fuji. Thanks!
@@EddyMaynard I understand:) Fuji has a really good lossless compressed. Have been using GFX for 5 years now:) Enjoy the camera!
@@kristoffergo6294 thanks very much! 😁
Regarding the dynamic range. It’s not you or the sensor, it’s Lightroom. Give Capture One a try and I think you will be pleased. Also the Small Rig grip really helps me hang on to the camera.
Thanks! Will give capture one a try. Also I got the smallrig grip and yeah you’re dead right! Love it
I've also wanted this setup for a long time, but ended up going with the Pentax 67. So far the only part I'm really envying you on is how much lighter your setup is vs mine lol. Sick shots and dope outbreak hoodie btw.
Thanks very much mate!! Nothing will ever match the look of the 67 😁 so there’s that! Film feels a lot more special. But yeah I don’t think I could carry a 67 everywhere everyday haha.
I like your vid, but you are not doing yourself or the camera any favors by shooting with the heavy MF Mitakon, when the camera is designed to shoot autofocus/focusstacking with native lenses, which in fact are also relatively light and fast.
I have been using the 50r with the 32-64mm, the 50mm, the 63mm, the 80mm and the 110mm for nearly 3 years now and its an absolute workhorse. The dynamic range is also way way better than sony in my opinion. Remember also that the aperture on medium format translates differently to that of say a fullframe camera.
You should try it with some native lenses!
I agree its a heavy combo, but its the only combo that gives me the 'medium format look' that im looking for. Any other 'look' that i want, i can just use my sony system for that i have a bunch of 1.4 lenses for, so its hard to justify spending the money on gfx glass. If it was my only camera i would though!
I sold my 50R as I couldn't get on with the ergonomics (even though I happily shoot an X-pro2, which has the same rangefinder styling). Regarding dynamic range, I think the camera's superpower is in shadow recovery rather than highlights, so I found just making sure not to over-expose the highlights and not worrying about the shadows worked well. I am missing the look of the GFX files and am contemplating picking up a used 50S to replace the 50R.
I got the smallrig wooden handle and it makes the WORLD of difference! And yeah I’ve also found the same with the shadows vs highlight recovery.
Feel very differently about this camera now 6 months later! Need to do a second review
I like your style, would love if you test some vintage lenses on 50R
Cameras are supposed to be held by the lens with your left hand, and give support and stability with your right hand, they are not made to be one handed. That's the way people where taught in the past when most cameras where heavy and you had to manual focus.
Yes, same with this since it’s manual focus too, but when I’m not shooting and just want to carry it casually by my side, it’s not possible without being uncomfortable. It is possible with every other camera I own though, most have a hand grip for your right hand, but this does not.
Thanks so much for watching :)
Hi there! I have a tip for you to dramatically improve your ergonomics: get a (wood+metal) grip from Small Rig. Makes all the difference (I often shoot with a 110, which is similar in weight to your 65).
Hello! I actually got this very grip about a month ago, and can confirm it makes a HUGE difference. Thank you 😊
Have you stuck with the 50R? I’m perilously close to buying one
@@garethjones5068 I have, check my channel for my 1 year review I just posted!
A great, realistic first look, thanks. GFX vs Sony full frame files, I'd say this: on GFX you'll need to be more careful with highlights, but the shadow detail on the GFX files is incredible and there's almost no noise penalty when you push shadows. That's where the big gains are on the GFX system, other than the beautiful way that colours are handled.
Thanks for watching!! Used this camera a lot more and you’re dead right about the highlights, been underexposing a stop or even two and getting really great results. Appreciate the comment! 😌
If you love this lens try the Irix 45mm f1.4. it has similar pop to the Mitakon but is better to use for more close up portrait photography.
Interesting, will take a look, thanks!
I'm not sure if they made different versions of this camera, but my top plate is not plastic.
Really? Very interesting, can’t find any info about that anywhere. Is it the same kind of metal as the x100 series?
@@EddyMaynard The 50R brochure says the “body” is magnesium alloy. According to Wikipedia, magnesium is the lightest structural metal. My guess is the top is magnesium and then the rest of the body is a mix of metals, aka alloy. I’m not trying to “TH-cam correct” you, I just didn’t want you to this was camera was somehow lesser than other cameras.
Great video. Sold my 50S years ago and keen to get a 50R
thanks very much! after shooting with it for a good few months now id definitely reccommend the R!
I understand you coming from a digital Sony and wanting more dynamic range, however, I feel like that amount of pulling of highlights remind me more of HDR photography, which is so far away from the analogue experience. As someone who has shot A LOT of film photography, borh 35mm and medium format, it's not like you don't have blown highlights on film. It happens a lot, actually, because you have to expose your frame correctly. Some situation really don't work.
That being said, I couldn't be more thrilled with the dynamic range for the 50r. It's natural and magical, without being HDRish.
Just my two cents.
The manual focus view acne be changed with a button press, and honestly GF glass is one of the primary reasons for this system. If you're only shooting manual third party glass, you're missing out...
awesome, playing with this thought too of getting one :) on the other side, its about time that Fuji will release an updated version...
As far as I’m aware fuji have said they’re discontinuing the R Line, but since it’s still a popular camera maybe they’ll change their mind! They’re announcing three new cameras on the 20th this month 🤞
This was informative/helpful. I'm looking into getting a new camera (I've always shot Nikon), but I'm not sure I'm on board, yet, with the Z series. I'm considering the D850 cause it holds up quite well, but I've always wanted a digital camera that does give that "film" look.
I've been doing research/comparisons and I'm not entirely convinced by the quality of some of these mirrorless cameras (mainly regarding lower light situations with high ISO). I don't want to compromise on image quality. I feel a lot of the perks, especially of these new mirrorless, offer fast auto-focus with fast shutter speed, which is nice, as long as it doesn't take away from the integrity of the image.
Any thoughts? Eddy I saw you mentioned the Fuji 100v...
Why not get the 50mm f0.95? It's FF equivalent to the 65mm 1.4. It's actually even faster than the 65mm (which is f1.1 FF equivalent).
Image quality is incredibly poor compared to this and it just doesn’t look the same unfortunately. The more I’m using it the more I realise the medium format sensor in the 50r has a really unique look. I guess for instagram and stuff you probably wouldn’t notice a huge difference though so a 50 0.95 on FF would be a great budget alternative.
Not a hater. But as a former photographer Ive traveled hiked and done bikepacking and even a couple of self supported travels in difficult condition carrying 4+ kilos of camera equipment. Being this 900 gram body a normal thing.
I find funny how times have changed and you don't see this camera as something you would carry everyday because of weight, and I've been doing just that half of my life 😅.
Nice video and nice camera, I find the other body (you can look up down, like old Hasselblads) much more comfortable to hold and funnier to use because of the viewfinder. It's a different experience, I recommend to you. Have fun!
He should try a Mamiya RB67 :)
Can you imagine if Fuji merged the GFX 50r and the X100V and made a medium format fixed lens street photographers camera?
this would be awesome! a gfx with a 40mm 1.4 (28mm-ish equivalent) would be the dream haha
where is the split-screen display option? i cant find in my gfx50r menu
HAve you taken advantage of the 'X-Pan crop' much since purchasing?
Thanks for posting this review Eddy, appreciate everything you've been sharing. I hope you don't mind for asking such a novice question, but did it came with the lightroom presets for the GFX, or was that something you found, or made on your own? -currently trying to find options for it
Thanks very much! The fuji camera matching profiles are already built into lightroom, they just 'unlock' when youre using a relevant camera (such as this one). Hope that helps!
I feel like you are missing another point in your video. Aperture.
Saying most lenses are over 3.5, when the standard lens is 2.8, okay.... But another point to take in is that on medium format, the aperture cannot be compared to 35mm 1:1.
1,4 on a Sony a7s is not the same as 1.4 on a GFX. Sure, the amount of light is the same, but the depth of field is way different!
I have a Mamiya 80mm 1.9 that I use on my Fuji, however, I can never shoot at 1.9 because it is waaaaay to shallow.
Not to disparage you or be mean or condescending, but I just felt like that criticism was misleading and wrong.
Keep up the good work :)
@@christianklintholm yes I absolutely agree however, for example, the 50mm 3.5 converted to ‘full frame’ would be a 40mm f2.77 equivalent, (so 2.8 basically) which is still not a shallow DOF lens. For me (which I know isn’t the same for most people) I want to shoot medium format for the shallow DOF. A 40mm f2.8 on full frame would give me the same DOF, which is nothing crazy. The voigtlander 40mm 1.2 would be MUCH shallower and is a vastly smaller setup on a body like a Sony a7
On the other hand, the mitakon 65mm would give an equivalent of 51mm f1.1 on full frame, which is VERY shallow, which contributes to that ‘medium format look’, which is why I say the GF lenses don’t really appeal to me (with the exception of the f1.7 lenses, but the mitakon is 60-70% cheaper than those)
@@EddyMaynard It depends on what you mean, when you talk about "the medium format look". I would personally guess/assume that you are thinking about that distinct Pentax 67 105mm takumar look. And if that is the case, then it doesn't really make sense to compare the DOF to a 50mm 3.5 (which I own myself). That's just plain apples and oranges to me.
Btw, the legendary 105 lens is "only" 2.4 aperture, but because of the focal length it is easier to get that shallow DOP you are searching for.
If you want the seperation, then the 80mm (either Pentax or Mamiya) makes a lot of sense, it would look even better than the 65mm.
But other than that, yeah a lot of people on a budget should perhaps just think about keeping their Sony systems and exploit huge lens range.
The 50mm 3.5 would be something like a 40mm on 135, probably wouldn't get the "medium format look" on a 40mm on any system, right?
It is somewhat subjective, I know, but I like using the Hasselblad XD (X1Dii or X2D) far better. Notice I wrote "using" as it is important. If you look the specs sheet, the Fuji brick has a longer one. Pluses of the Hasselblads: ergonomics, solid built Metal, not "good quality looking plastic" ;o), simplicity of menus and use, color straight out of the camera. [I am a photographer who takes photographs, I do not want to spend any time doing videos or roaming across a landscape of customizations and menu options I have no use for, but it is just me, I know].
PS: the "medium-format" look comes from the size of the sensor.
The MF look comes from sensor size AND lens used. Of you shot at F8 on this camera, it will not have a MF look at all. The sensor is not much bigger than full frame so the MF look is questionable. It's in between 6x4.5 and 35mm film size. You won't get the look of 6x7 or 6x6 with this.
Frankly I get a better look than on the 6x7 (Mamiya) and 6x6 I have used (Hasselblad and Mamiya) without the issues that come with film either BW or color.
The Hightlights does recovers much better in Capture one way better than Adobe Lightroom
It's to be expected for a camera with a larger sensor to be heavier. Cut corners with the build quality to save weight and you get comments like "it feels cheap and plasticky". I agree the grip could be bigger, but a bigger grip will add more weight. All the best.
I agree! This is just a first impressions video and to be honest the weight is more a complaint of the lens more than anything. I actually got a smallrig wooden grip yesterday and it massively helps, I think the actual lack of ergonomics on the body is the issue to be honest, but the smallrig grip sorts this. Full review coming somepoint soon anyway! Thanks for watching :)
Thanks for this. Been looking at the 50S/R for a couple of days now. This helps :-)
Glad I could help! Long term review coming soon :)
I have the 50S II which is a lot more practical -- IBIS and a bigger grip for large lenses. However, the 50R looks so damn sexy
Just got the smallrig grip today and this massively helps with the grip! Still wouldnt want to carry it handheld all day mind. Ibis would be handy with it being so heavy!
Love the 50R. It’s def the real digital film camera. There are a few tricks to improve manual focusing. I’ll share them with you.
Digital film camera??
@@Jay-jb2vr digital camera that feels like and outputs images closely resembling a film camera
@@chris_jorge just go get a Nikon FM3A and call it a day...why fake it til you make it..
@@Jay-jb2vr LOL i raise you to the Fuji GSW690III
@jay-jb2vr Because film with developing and scanning costs about £1 a shot, so once ive got 1250 photos on the gfx its paid for itself! (i do also shoot film, but its expensive and i cant always afford it)
Please can you try your infrared filter trick on this camera? I'd love to know if Fuji also put weak IR filters on their bayer filter cameras :)
I don’t currently have an infrared filter that fits, and they’re quite expensive, but I’ll see if I can do this for a future video!
I watched this video on because I was curious about the Mitakon. Regarding the Sony files being better, I have to disagree. The Fuji files are the first raw files where it's felt like anything is possible, not to mention the color.
after using this for a good few months i agree with you! :) better review coming soon...
I am still not sure whether it might be worth replacing my trusty x-t3 with 50R, thank you for the video though :)
I wouldn't replace it with the 50r, medium format shines in very specific use cases and isn't very practical in terms of size/weight
@@CianMcsweeney yes, that’s what bugs me a lot. Plus I still hope for second gen of 50r
It's like a digital version of the Texas Leica, the Fuji GW690. Sublime photos but not a camera you'd associate with being portable. Horses for courses.
You can't expect a medium format anything to be particularly compact, unless you take into account a rangefinder camera such as the Mamiya 6. In the medium format territory, yes, THAT camera is indeed portable ... just like these new Fuji medium format digital cameras are portable, particularly when compared to digital cameras which are NOT mirror-less cameras like the Fuji is. Fuji kicks ass above all others, and very easily outsells them ALL. Just imagine - you actually get BOTH a seriously great camera, and at a price which doesn't rob the bank, in many cases a tiny fraction the price of the competition. Buying some of those is as stupid as buying a Leica which is seriously no better than the best equivalent Nikon camera. Some people have a goal of just owning the most expensive item, and not necessarily the best and most practical item.
i'm a fan of mitakon's newish lenses. the do put out a couple of gems
It would be awesome if they release another true GFX lens. Around prime around 30-40mm would be nice to pair with the 65mm.
me too!
yeah something f1.4 thats somewhere between a 28mm - 40mm full frame equivalent would be amazing
have you tried disabling focus from the shutter button? Might fix that focus screen blacking out when you press the shutter...
I tried that yeah! Doesn’t change it, so annoying haha!
Great video. I was wondering if the weaker highlights could be lens related? That if you had official fujifilm lenses, the highlights would be better?
potentially yes! could also be the DR setting in camera like someone mentioned in these comments, im going to experiment and will report back when i do a longer term review 🫡
The lens you use has no impact on the highlights or shadows, that's only impacted by the sensor you use and what exposure. Except maybe if you use an older lens with much lower contrast - maybe full of dust or just low contrast wide open - so you actual have better DR. So I doubt the native lenses will have "bad" contrast that give you smoother highlights.
great camera, one day maybe I'll be able t afford one. I really hope Fuji will deliver another GFX with the analog dials and look style
Prices are slowly dropping, i picked this up for £1250, which is less than what x100v's are going for at the moment!
@@EddyMaynard wow i think it's a bargain for a digital medium format. i'm just a bit perplexed about the dynamic range. May it work better in Capture One?
I was about to buy one this evening. Im not sure now. The size a weight doesn't bother me but DR does. I must say the images look great though. Thanks for giving me a bigger dilemma 😂
After a few more months of using it I can confirm the DR is actually great, it was my fault. there’s a setting to increase it on the camera (DR400) and I had my dynamic range turned down to the minimum (DR100), didn’t realise at all. Id say it’s on par with the sony now for sure
@@EddyMaynard and the lack of ibis? Is it an issue for you?
@@Chum_chumi it would be very handy considering the weight of this setup, it’s ‘okay’ without it but I wouldn’t want to shoot at less than 1/80, think you’d struggle handheld.
Just for fun, could you show us how an autofocus lens works? Im struggling to find any videos on the autofocus for the 50r?
Hey! I dont own any autofocus lenses for the gfx, theyre all too expensive to justify buying when this is just a camera i have for fun, im not using it for paid work. As far as im aware though, the autofocus on the 50r isnt great.
Ok thanks, so hard to find a video of it@@EddyMaynard
@@erikleypoldt8275 check out Kyle McDougalls channel, he has a fair bit of GFX content!
follow his channel, but no one shows it live, tracking etc
@@EddyMaynard
Great video and beautiful photos.
Thank you very much! 😁
My take on this, after considering the camera.
50Mp is not much more than the top full frame cameras. Lower even. The 51MP sensor is more than a decade old now - first used in 2014.
Like you mentioned, most native AF lenses are not fast (aperture) and you need to adapt to get that thin dof. On a full frame, you can go with fast reliable AF and a 35mm F1.2 and there are a multitude of options available that go to F1.0 or even lower.
The "MF" look you describe can be accomplished with a full frame Laowa 35mm F0.95 or 40mm 0.95. Or 35mm F1.2 if you want AF.
About the ergonomics, I recommend going for the wooden grip. Won't bring the weight down of course :)
That said, It's a shame Fuji didn't come with a successor to this. With an up to date sensor - doesn't even have to be 100MP, but with faster operation and IBIS of course.
But I still might go for it, if I find a 50R at a good price. Working with a full kit Nikon Z professionally, I have a Fuji X-E3 with small manual and most importantly, imperfect lenses for personal work and fun, using it for the same purpose as your 50R. And I love it.
Well for sure MF looks isn’t just about fast aperture and bokeh though
You've obviously got a lot to learn about photography. And going on one of your gripes get a 50s as it's much easier to hold.
Thanks for watching :)
Love you videos man!!! Subbed
Thank you!!
what is the equivalence of a 65mm? a 40mm in a 35mm formatr?
Hi mate! On the gfx it’s equivalent to 51mm full frame
pros = end image quality / cons= everything else
The 50R was also my dream camera. Bought it last month, best purchase of my life so far.
just ordered one today, really looking forward to it!
rather "medium crop", but it is still top notch.
great video. Looks like a fun setup.
Thank you! It definitely is 😁
Class video as always dude!
thank you mate!
Thank you for the honest and concrete review with your experience. Your pictures are always great ! Still want to try it out tho 😀😇
No problem! Always want to stay honest / impartial. And thank you for the kind words. Definitely try it out, let me know how you find it 😁
I have this camera and lens and I can’t figure out how to get the mini zoom screen for manual focussing. I’ve read the manual, I feel like I’ve been through every setting in the focus menu. What am I doing wrong?
Put the focus switch to M and then cycle through the display modes via the DISP/BACK button
as @enshongmiranda said, put af to M and press disp/back. If it doesnt work, maybe you're on an older firmware? im not sure which one this is on, its just the one it came with when i bought it second hand, but i know theres been a few updates.
Thank you. That did it. I'm used to the af/mf switch being on lenses, not the body.
Great vid! Thanks mate.
No problem, thanks for watching! :)
Excellent info! Thanks.
I complained about how big my camera was, then I realized Ansel Adams traipsed thru the mountains with 50lbs worth of equipment.
hahah yes, we are spoiled these days for sure!
Dynamic Range Sony A7rm5 vs GFX50r: The Fujifilm has slightly more DN. Source: Photons to Photos.
hello! yes, after more testing ive found that to be true. my issue was i was using DR100, after shooting on DR400 the Dynamic range is much better. This was just a first impressions video, ive changed a lot of my opinions on the camera since, will be making a longer term review in a few months time :)
@@EddyMaynard P2P says at ISO 100... ;-) You need ISO400/500 for DR400.
@@-_ch40s_ maybe the a7iv has more DR than the Rv then, or maybe I just picked some bad examples, but the highlight recovery on my a7iv seems to be much better than the GFX at iso 100 in my testing. Maybe the GFX pulls shadows better?
Either way they’re both great 🤷♂️
Do you find yourself wanting the new GFX100ii more now?
No, I probably wouldnt buy another GFX to be honest, if i wanted the extreme resolution id get a a7Rv as its a much more advanced camera and unless i was shooting on this mitakon lens, it would give me basically the exact same look as GFX lenses. I do love this setup for the look that it gives though.
Bro I would love to see a video in the future on you trying to get that “look” with a ff or apsc just for us experience nerds 😊🤓🧐
Will definitely try and sort something like that! I think the equivalent lens on FF for the mitakon would be a 50mm 1.1! Might have to borrow someone’s 50 1.2 G master and see if it looks the same. Would have to be something like a 35mm f0.95 on apsc 😂
Yeah, class video, thx
no problem! thanks for watching!
Cool video. How much do you weigh? I want to get an idea of the camera as a percentage of your body mass. Am I weird?
Gotta be honest, I think this is the strangest thing anyones ever asked me 😂
Definitely pick up the small rig grip
Ah, yes that’s weird.😂
Dood, that Mitakon weighs over a kilo - 50% more than the body! Of course the ergonomics are f!cked. You def. need the baseplate with the grip.
I'm curious - why don't you mount your Minolta 58 1.2 on the GFX?
Cheers.
For sure yeah! But for me this was my dream setup so the review is based on that, not just the gfx itself. I will be doing a full review at some point, this was just a quick first impressions vid.
I’ve tried the Minolta, it looks kinda cool but the vignetting is not great and it definitely doesn’t have the ‘medium format’ compression with the edges being smudgy and the bokeh being a little bit swirly. It works well for the panoramic crop though, the shot at 0:34 was with the Minolta, as is the shot at 8:00 of my cat :)
You are holding it wrong. Use your left hand and hold it under the body and lens.
You don’t get why the box disappears? Because it takes a photo, the shutter closes, box gets dark. Also you focus before you press the shutter, so what the problem?
Because a half press on the shutter isn’t taking the photo, it’s usually ‘focussing’ the image with AF and locking the AE
@@EddyMaynard this two screens in one is meant for manual focus. Why would you half press the shutter with a manual focus lens? The Mitakon is a manual focus lens. I don’t get it.
@@juliussternfeld428 you have to half press it to press it all the way, and like I said in the video pressing it hard (to do a full press) introduces slight camera shake at slow shutter speeds. So to press it slowly and carefully you have to half press first
The simulations in Lightroom are not the same. I struggle with Lightroom fucking up the colors all the god damn time
Theyre slightly off but id definitely look into learning how to use HSL sliders & RGB tone curves, with a small amount of tweaking you'll be able to get the look you want pretty easily!
Does look better than a song.
Then perhaps grab a 50s?
I don’t like how they look, the R is beautiful, and after using it for 5 months I’ve changed my mind on a lot of these first impressions
you can use this camera as a workout barbel
You probably can recover in Capture 1
I have very manly hands and the camera is actually very ergonomic and good to hold
i love your accent
That’s a compliment that I’ve never received before hah! Thank you 😁
"it doesn't have Sony's dynamic range" just expose it properly
Like I said in the video, isn’t an issue, just an observation :) thanks for watching
shutter sound is awful to me
There is no medium format look - you don’t understand physics.
Hi! 😌 Medium format look refers to the typical ‘look’ of classic medium format film shots - a wide field of view with shallow depth of field. This is much easier achieved on a sensor as big as the gfx, but can technically be achieved on a full frame camera with a super wide aperture lens (50mm f0.95 for example)
Thanks for watching and commenting, massively helps the algorithm ❤️
GFX 50s II way way better
Sure. It’s also twice as expensive.