I can say I totally agree and have seen no ill effects. I had a 2011 ram 3500 with the 6.7 cummins. Put over 400,000 miles on that engine using a big block thermostat just as you suggested. And like you, never once had an overheating issue. Now granted I wasn't pulling 600 plus wheel horsepower like you were but it was a healthy 475whp tow rig
I had overheating issues and losing coolant in my 3rd gen 5.9. It had a new thermostat from O'Reillys in it so i didn't think that was my problem. Was about to pull the head but decided to get a thermostat from cummins first. Problem fixed.
I got around to adding some manual gauges along with the factory gauges . The results were interesting..i have fresh coolant from Cat and a new Mishimoto radiator. . I realize just how cool this engine is running. Not apples to apples butmy tdi jetta runs i think 190 all day long no problems. So i ordered the stat you posted the link to . I was thinking that warming up the enging might be a tad better on fuel mileage not sure ..i placed a cover over the radiator that has a 1 foot hole in the center of fan i made years ago out of rubber gasket materal and the manual gauge shows 145 to 150 degs. Thanks for the videos
The bypass slows the coolant flow at idle. Allowing the engine to warm up to operating temp faster. Assuming no damaged parts and regular oil changes. So there is nothing internal causing abnormal wear. Most cylinder wear occurs below 160 degrees f. If you start the engine. And start driving after a few minutes. Not having that bypass makes no difference. Because it is going to open as soon as you start driving. If you start the truck and it ends up sitting at idle for ten minutes or more. That bypass valve reduces engine wear by allowing faster warm up.
ya the second trucks have a power limit of a about 350 hp at the wheel and tow if you want to use all the power, witch it is a limit of btu's engine makes more then the rad can get rid of
@@CUTTERUPROB this is the comment I wanted to see, n that’s my limiting factor- the engine is simply making over twice the btu’s at my power level than the factory system was designed for. Makes total sense.
I have some questions about thermostats. Maybe you can cover this in your next video. I have a 96 automatic. I changed my stock 180 to a stock 190 years ago. Just recently it fell apart and I wanted a higher temperature. I went with an aftermarket fourth GEN 200° product from Stant. The stock ones seem to be much more stable. This one fluctuates every time it opens from 200 down to 190 every single time. It has never stabilized. I would love to know more about the design characteristics of the stock and aftermarket ones like you showed in this video. The one I put in looks like the one you showed. Also I have blocked off and removed the small rubber hose that bypasses the thermostat on the 12v’s.
Nicest head finish I've ever seen. The factory thermostats for my 1st gen have little 'rivet valves" in them. One has 3 the other has 2. What for ? Also, at sea level I got 26 mpg at 65 mph. At 3500 feet where I live now the best was only 14-18 mpg. Bone stock 1st gen, 2wd, flatbed, automatic. Any tips to get my mileage back ?
Thank you! I mentioned in another reply that I removed that hose(cracked and leaking after decades)The 190 I put in was a later model and had the jiggle pin instead of the check valve/hose set up.
Got a 1970 440 195 degree thermostat for my 1997 12 valve. Seems to be some confusion about the gaskets. I got the stepped one that the lifting eye goes over. Do I need a gasket do I need for the other side that goes in the housing side ? Parts stores don’t seem to have anything…
i personally like like 180-190, i will be doing some video's on why, but the simple answer is with the high temp stat the coolant stops for longer in the block and rad so it can cool or heat longer,
I have a non intercooled d350 that I’m debating swapping thermostat housing on so I can put in a bigger radiator with electric fans. Truck currently has the original rad and a new thermostat, I’ve flushed the coolant multiple times at this point and bled out any and all air that I can with one of those funnel kits. Still overheats like crazy if it isn’t on the highway. Does just fine so long as it’s going 50 mph or faster. No modifications done that I know of in terms of power besides a fuel pin. Anything I should know or might wanna check before diving in the rabbit hole? -Jarrett
I wouldn’t go to electric fans. They don’t move enough air. I would be looking at the rad and the clutch fan. If you not towing or driving it hard your shouldn’t have heat issues. Sometimes the rad look good but the tubes get loaded with junk.
Really glad you made this video. My 96 has a new head and factory cummins tstat put in last year. Problem is it WILL NOT warm up in the winter. I Can drive for an hour straight and needle barely moves onto the first 140 tick leaving me with no heat in the dash. Summer time has no problem. Heats up to 190 and stays. I'm thinking this is because of that bypass valve constantly being open. A cummins runs cool to begin with, be it a 5.9, or 6.7. Atleast I've noticed in the pickups they do. Now question, does that bypass passage way come out of the tstat housing, loop around with a rubber hose on top, and back down into the head? Sorry for the paragraph, I've just gotta fix this thing because I need heat. Pizza box in the radiator only does so much
Actually, After watching your video again I just realized that it shouldn't matter about that bypass regardless. I'm thinking I have another issue, just not sure where or how
Hay I got a 1996 dodge cummins to and I got the same problem when it finally heats up to 190 after driving it down the road for 15 miles when the thermostat opened it drops down to 140 and takes forever to come back to 190 and opens and goes back to 140 over And over again why won't it stay around 190
hey i got an 89 cummins swapped GMC C30 dually with a VE pump. if i was to bring it to you, how much would it cost to swap in a P pump, and is that kinda thing even possible... this is my first Diesel, and this is all kinda new to me... I'm in cranbrook, but am out that way every month or so to meet up with my perdy lady friend I got a 440 thermostat, and it didn't seem to fit in the thermostat housing so, i just installed another 6bt thermostat... truck doesn't get hot at highway speeds, i've hooked up a power inverter so i can run electric space heaters, as this -30 weather suuucks.
Great vid! When my first gen Tstat was fluctuating i bought one from the auto parts store and all the Murray brand stats had small gate openings like the ones you have shown.When you do comparison you should see if genuine Cummins stat flows different to aftermarket?
This big block thermostat works good in the winter? I’m putting mine in today (195* from NAPA). Even with the Radiator blocked by cardboard it takes about an hour of driving for the needle to lift off the 140 mark on the gauge. Barely any heat even after 20 minutes of driving. 1998 12 valve dodge manual.
Hi Rob I have two questions. 1) My 89 12v now has a second gen thermostat housing and radiator in my 87 GMC Sierra and I don't know what thermostat to run? 2) In the winter the engine takes forever to warm up and then as soon as I drive it the temp drops and won't even register 100f. I don't have a steam hose on it, should I?
You could try blocking the front of your rad with a piece of cardboard cut to fit and see what that does. My friend has an old ford 6.9 IDI and if he doesn't block his radiator it will never warm up. I have a 12 valve in my old Chevy dually though, and it's just got an all aluminum 3 core radiator that is the same size as the gasser radiator that was in the truck before. And that thing will run you out of the cab the heat works so well. Engine reaches 190° after about 10 miles of driving and never moves. Summer, winter, doesn't matter. 190° steady as a rock. I don't know why he has to block his radiator and I don't.
Had a head replaced on my '96. No heat issues before. Now, heats to red line, then drops to 190, cycles to red line and back to 190 until it evens out...at 190. Not comfortable with the seemingly overheat condition. Tech installed a coolant line bypass to the sensor port but condition persists. Any insight?
ROB, I've been battling a overheating problem on my 97 12 valve.. running out of things to try hoping you can help. It's never ran hot til recently. I replaced water pump, thermostat, coolant temp sensor , new upper and lower hoses, did flush on entire system . Still overheats badly. Block is hot but my rad is cool . What is the deal with the bypass hose from water inlet to head. It has the check valve on it. What exactly is its purpose, can you block them off or replace with a cheaper check valve $70+ is ridiculous. Thanks. Your channel is great.
I had the mishimoto 174 , took it out and ran to local parts store and grabbed a one believe a 190 .. I boiled it and made sure it opened. Was weird cause while I had it out I put it back together and started looked to have been circulating good. So I put the thermostat in once again no circulation and overheat. I did a flush but feel like bottom side of rad my be partial clogged. What is best cleaner to use, and techniques to really flush good.? Thank you for getting back to me.
@@CUTTERUPROB I had the mishimoto 174 took it out and went local parts store and grabbed a one believe a 190 .. I boiled it and made sure it opened. Was weird cause while I had it out I put it back together and started looked to have been circulating good. So I put the thermostat in once again no circulation and overheat. I did a flush but feel like bottom side of rad my be partial clogged. What is best cleaner to use, and techniques to really flush good.? Thank you for getting back to me.
@@CUTTERUPROB temp will just climb straight up to 230+ will cycle back a little just enough to get out of red , but will go back in red quickly. Use to not run past 210.
@@gabec5799 myslef if the rad has much for build up in the tubes on the inside I would just replace the rad. If it clean then you likely ok. But a flush wouldn’t hurt it. Any acid type flush works. Also have you put a new clutch fan on ?
I have a 95 12 valve and recently replaced the thermostat to a Cummins one, water pump, fan clutch, and coolant temp sensor but the truck runs hotter than it did before now. It use to run at 170 but not it climbs to 190 quickly and a little pass 200. What would you recommend on making it run cooler like before or is this normal?
Hey rob, I have a 12v I swapped into a 1993 f350 cclb and I'm running the IDI enormous rad and switched to a 190 t stat and I'm finding it runs really cold even so. Is there a hotter thermostat you would recommend like a 210 or something along those lines and would there be some unforeseen issues if I were to swap to something like that I don't know about
@@CUTTERUPROB Ya it's in the 12v. It had the factory 180 and I swapped it to a 190 and still find it's running much cooler than the idi and that's in the summer. I'm in the okanagan and even in 35c temps it's cool.
So how it was explained to me was that bypass moves with the thermostat opening and closing. So when the thermostat is closed that flap doesn’t contact the head and is “open” and when the thermostat opens fully that flap covers the hole. Is that wrong?
the thermostat opening and closing does matter to it as the spring sits on the cage of the tstat. it opens when the flow pressure is high enough to do so. but the hoe is so small i couldn't see it really doing much. Don't get me wrong they did do it for a reason, but the same guys didn't fix the KDP lol
Question hopefully you have time to answer, I’m doing a coolant flush on my 94 12 valve. Idled for 20 minutes and drove for about 45 minutes. Temp gauge stayed around 160-170 or so never touched 190. I’m In texas and it’s stock power just use it to pull my trailer (5k lbs) every so often or just use it for trips, should I switch thermostats or keep the stock one that’s in it? Also is there any way to get all of the coolant out of the block?
I would run the stick Cummins stat. It’s pretty hard to get it all out of the block. I just flush it with water 3-4 times with a drive cycle. Then when you fill it. Put a gallon of concentrate then do 50/50 to fill the rest
Nice head finish on that 12 valve! ! Also what coolant temperature is a “safe” # to tow at for an extended period of time? I did an east to west coast trip in my 24 v p pump and saw 240- 260 at the highest in the Rockies at 100* ambient temp, towing 10k. Using Mishimoto coolant 180* t stat, factory radiator.
The block is design to keep coolant recirculating when the thermostat is close and to help eliminate cavitation at the water pump. When the factory thermostat opens it also closes the port with that bottom valve (24 valves switch over to a plunger style). In theory and in hot areas if that bottom port doesn’t get plug/block it continues to recirculate some of the hot coolant instead of forcing it all through the radiator
@@CUTTERUPROB Thanks. I have compound turbos, and 600-700hp capable. Also running a Stant 180* T stat which is different than a factory Cummins in design.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Interesting info Rob, I was never quite sure what that spring valve did, thanks for clearing that up !!
I can say I totally agree and have seen no ill effects. I had a 2011 ram 3500 with the 6.7 cummins. Put over 400,000 miles on that engine using a big block thermostat just as you suggested. And like you, never once had an overheating issue. Now granted I wasn't pulling 600 plus wheel horsepower like you were but it was a healthy 475whp tow rig
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I had overheating issues and losing coolant in my 3rd gen 5.9. It had a new thermostat from O'Reillys in it so i didn't think that was my problem. Was about to pull the head but decided to get a thermostat from cummins first. Problem fixed.
New ones mean nothing now a days
Thanks for explaining that. I appreciate you making these videos.
🙏 thanks for watching
I got around to adding some manual gauges along with the factory gauges . The results were interesting..i have fresh coolant from Cat and a new Mishimoto radiator. . I realize just how cool this engine is running. Not apples to apples butmy tdi jetta runs i think 190 all day long no problems. So i ordered the stat you posted the link to . I was thinking that warming up the enging might be a tad better on fuel mileage not sure ..i placed a cover over the radiator that has a 1 foot hole in the center of fan i made years ago out of rubber gasket materal and the manual gauge shows 145 to 150 degs. Thanks for the videos
The bypass slows the coolant flow at idle. Allowing the engine to warm up to operating temp faster. Assuming no damaged parts and regular oil changes. So there is nothing internal causing abnormal wear. Most cylinder wear occurs below 160 degrees f. If you start the engine. And start driving after a few minutes. Not having that bypass makes no difference. Because it is going to open as soon as you start driving. If you start the truck and it ends up sitting at idle for ten minutes or more. That bypass valve reduces engine wear by allowing faster warm up.
cooling issues would be more related to Radiator/ fan issues the thermostats are set for certain temp and will operate as such
ya the second trucks have a power limit of a about 350 hp at the wheel and tow if you want to use all the power, witch it is a limit of btu's engine makes more then the rad can get rid of
@@CUTTERUPROB this is the comment I wanted to see, n that’s my limiting factor- the engine is simply making over twice the btu’s at my power level than the factory system was designed for. Makes total sense.
Wish I knew this when I replaced mine this winter
Next time
I have some questions about thermostats. Maybe you can cover this in your next video. I have a 96 automatic. I changed my stock 180 to a stock 190 years ago. Just recently it fell apart and I wanted a higher temperature. I went with an aftermarket fourth GEN 200° product from Stant. The stock ones seem to be much more stable. This one fluctuates every time it opens from 200 down to 190 every single time. It has never stabilized. I would love to know more about the design characteristics of the stock and aftermarket ones like you showed in this video. The one I put in looks like the one you showed. Also I have blocked off and removed the small rubber hose that bypasses the thermostat on the 12v’s.
i will do a video up and talk more about it
Learned me something👍
🙏😎
I'm running A160 never had a problem
Most guys won’t. I just like the higher temp for winter
@@CUTTERUPROB I'm in fla
One day I will be in the winters. So let them later when I few thing line up
Engine is probably more efficient with that 195* thermostat.
they sure are and they cool better as well
Nicest head finish I've ever seen. The factory thermostats for my 1st gen have little 'rivet valves" in them. One has 3 the other has 2. What for ? Also, at sea level I got 26 mpg at 65 mph. At 3500 feet where I live now the best was only 14-18 mpg. Bone stock 1st gen, 2wd, flatbed, automatic. Any tips to get my mileage back ?
That’s called a jiggle pin. It lets the air bubbles move through
sean is right , it's to let the steam out of the system , later 12v have bypass hose from the head to the tstat housing does the same thing
Thank you! I mentioned in another reply that I removed that hose(cracked and leaking after decades)The 190 I put in was a later model and had the jiggle pin instead of the check valve/hose set up.
Rob what is the part number for that 195 degree thermostat? I can only find 170,180 & 190 degree
I going to do another video on thermostats this coming week. but here is a link amzn.to/3koBeIA
Got a 1970 440 195 degree thermostat for my 1997 12 valve. Seems to be some confusion about the gaskets.
I got the stepped one that the lifting eye goes over. Do I need a gasket do I need for the other side that goes in the housing side ?
Parts stores don’t seem to have anything…
Just want to use the same as what it have originally. You can do it a couple ways
Whats your opinion on the mishimoto "low temp" thermostat for 12 valves? I believe it starts to open at 174 degrees
i personally like like 180-190, i will be doing some video's on why, but the simple answer is with the high temp stat the coolant stops for longer in the block and rad so it can cool or heat longer,
I have a non intercooled d350 that I’m debating swapping thermostat housing on so I can put in a bigger radiator with electric fans. Truck currently has the original rad and a new thermostat, I’ve flushed the coolant multiple times at this point and bled out any and all air that I can with one of those funnel kits. Still overheats like crazy if it isn’t on the highway. Does just fine so long as it’s going 50 mph or faster. No modifications done that I know of in terms of power besides a fuel pin. Anything I should know or might wanna check before diving in the rabbit hole? -Jarrett
I wouldn’t go to electric fans. They don’t move enough air. I would be looking at the rad and the clutch fan. If you not towing or driving it hard your shouldn’t have heat issues. Sometimes the rad look good but the tubes get loaded with junk.
Really glad you made this video. My 96 has a new head and factory cummins tstat put in last year. Problem is it WILL NOT warm up in the winter. I Can drive for an hour straight and needle barely moves onto the first 140 tick leaving me with no heat in the dash. Summer time has no problem. Heats up to 190 and stays. I'm thinking this is because of that bypass valve constantly being open. A cummins runs cool to begin with, be it a 5.9, or 6.7. Atleast I've noticed in the pickups they do. Now question, does that bypass passage way come out of the tstat housing, loop around with a rubber hose on top, and back down into the head? Sorry for the paragraph, I've just gotta fix this thing because I need heat. Pizza box in the radiator only does so much
Actually, After watching your video again I just realized that it shouldn't matter about that bypass regardless. I'm thinking I have another issue, just not sure where or how
Hay I got a 1996 dodge cummins to and I got the same problem when it finally heats up to 190 after driving it down the road for 15 miles when the thermostat opened it drops down to 140 and takes forever to come back to 190 and opens and goes back to 140 over And over again why won't it stay around 190
@@rustymachineshop9456 mine does the the exact same thing and I'm wondering as well...esp now that winter has come here
It does by pass some. I run valves on mine to turn them off when it cold and not towing.
@@CUTTERUPROB thanks I'll try that
Do you have any experience with the china cummins brand dcec thermostats? A seller on ebay just sent me a one. 82°c
I can’t say I do no
Can you provide a part # for that thermostat please ? Stock 12v towing 1 car trailer every day
hey i got an 89 cummins swapped GMC C30 dually with a VE pump. if i was to bring it to you, how much would it cost to swap in a P pump, and is that kinda thing even possible... this is my first Diesel, and this is all kinda new to me... I'm in cranbrook, but am out that way every month or so to meet up with my perdy lady friend
I got a 440 thermostat, and it didn't seem to fit in the thermostat housing so, i just installed another 6bt thermostat... truck doesn't get hot at highway speeds, i've hooked up a power inverter so i can run electric space heaters, as this -30 weather suuucks.
Great vid! When my first gen Tstat was fluctuating i bought one from the auto parts store and all the Murray brand stats had small gate openings like the ones you have shown.When you do comparison you should see if genuine Cummins stat flows different to aftermarket?
i will do some of that stuff
Good to know! Also have you made a video doing a p pump swap from ve?
I talked about it in this video. But have not been a complete series
Cummins ve to ppump case swap
Thank you for your input. I’ll try it and see what happens. What temperature thermostat do you recommend.?
really depends on what your doing with the engine , 190 is a good starting point
@@CUTTERUPROB I only get hot towing long big grades. 97 12v nv4500, Radiator is spotless inside and out. Water pump? Belt slip?
This big block thermostat works good in the winter? I’m putting mine in today (195* from NAPA). Even with the Radiator blocked by cardboard it takes about an hour of driving for the needle to lift off the 140 mark on the gauge. Barely any heat even after 20 minutes of driving. 1998 12 valve dodge manual.
It does in my trucks
Do you have a napa part number ?
Hi Rob I have two questions.
1) My 89 12v now has a second gen thermostat housing and radiator in my 87 GMC Sierra and I don't know what thermostat to run?
2) In the winter the engine takes forever to warm up and then as soon as I drive it the temp drops and won't even register 100f. I don't have a steam hose on it, should I?
I run a 190 in my truck la in the winter and swap to a 180 in the summer. They warm up a bit faster
You could try blocking the front of your rad with a piece of cardboard cut to fit and see what that does. My friend has an old ford 6.9 IDI and if he doesn't block his radiator it will never warm up.
I have a 12 valve in my old Chevy dually though, and it's just got an all aluminum 3 core radiator that is the same size as the gasser radiator that was in the truck before. And that thing will run you out of the cab the heat works so well. Engine reaches 190° after about 10 miles of driving and never moves. Summer, winter, doesn't matter. 190° steady as a rock. I don't know why he has to block his radiator and I don't.
@@CUTTERUPROB do you have part numbers??
Had a head replaced on my '96. No heat issues before. Now, heats to red line, then drops to 190, cycles to red line and back to 190 until it evens out...at 190.
Not comfortable with the seemingly overheat condition. Tech installed a coolant line bypass to the sensor port but condition persists. Any insight?
try a new cummins therostat
Does the 440 thermostat take the same rubber seals and the paper or garlock gasket thanks
Just use it as it was the stock tstat
Would this help my truck get to operation temp. My truck gets up to 160ish fast but never higher.
Yep it should
I bought the thermostat 1970 charger 440 to put on my first gen and it’s to big (diameter). Am I missing something?
Some of the first gen have a small bore stat. For those you don’t have much of a option other then stock. That I know of
ROB, I've been battling a overheating problem on my 97 12 valve.. running out of things to try hoping you can help. It's never ran hot til recently. I replaced water pump, thermostat, coolant temp sensor , new upper and lower hoses, did flush on entire system . Still overheats badly. Block is hot but my rad is cool . What is the deal with the bypass hose from water inlet to head. It has the check valve on it. What exactly is its purpose, can you block them off or replace with a cheaper check valve $70+ is ridiculous. Thanks. Your channel is great.
you can just pull the valve out of the bypass , cheap and easy . what stat did you use , what temp you running ?
I had the mishimoto 174 , took it out and ran to local parts store and grabbed a one believe a 190 .. I boiled it and made sure it opened. Was weird cause while I had it out I put it back together and started looked to have been circulating good. So I put the thermostat in once again no circulation and overheat. I did a flush but feel like bottom side of rad my be partial clogged. What is best cleaner to use, and techniques to really flush good.? Thank you for getting back to me.
@@CUTTERUPROB I had the mishimoto 174 took it out and went local parts store and grabbed a one believe a 190 .. I boiled it and made sure it opened. Was weird cause while I had it out I put it back together and started looked to have been circulating good. So I put the thermostat in once again no circulation and overheat. I did a flush but feel like bottom side of rad my be partial clogged. What is best cleaner to use, and techniques to really flush good.? Thank you for getting back to me.
@@CUTTERUPROB temp will just climb straight up to 230+ will cycle back a little just enough to get out of red , but will go back in red quickly. Use to not run past 210.
@@gabec5799 myslef if the rad has much for build up in the tubes on the inside I would just replace the rad. If it clean then you likely ok. But a flush wouldn’t hurt it. Any acid type flush works. Also have you put a new clutch fan on ?
What is the part number on that thermostat? . Dodge original crazy expensive in Sweden
I have a 95 12 valve and recently replaced the thermostat to a Cummins one, water pump, fan clutch, and coolant temp sensor but the truck runs hotter than it did before now. It use to run at 170 but not it climbs to 190 quickly and a little pass 200. What would you recommend on making it run cooler like before or is this normal?
I run my truck as 195 -200 all the time.
What do you recommend for a 95 12 valve that won’t warm up in the winter
The one for the 1970s 440. That’s what I run
Hey rob, I have a 12v I swapped into a 1993 f350 cclb and I'm running the IDI enormous rad and switched to a 190 t stat and I'm finding it runs really cold even so. Is there a hotter thermostat you would recommend like a 210 or something along those lines and would there be some unforeseen issues if I were to swap to something like that I don't know about
whats the thermostat you bought for ? 12v ?
@@CUTTERUPROB Ya it's in the 12v. It had the factory 180 and I swapped it to a 190 and still find it's running much cooler than the idi and that's in the summer. I'm in the okanagan and even in 35c temps it's cool.
Hey it was my comment!!!! Interested to see what you say.
So how it was explained to me was that bypass moves with the thermostat opening and closing. So when the thermostat is closed that flap doesn’t contact the head and is “open” and when the thermostat opens fully that flap covers the hole. Is that wrong?
the thermostat opening and closing does matter to it as the spring sits on the cage of the tstat. it opens when the flow pressure is high enough to do so. but the hoe is so small i couldn't see it really doing much. Don't get me wrong they did do it for a reason, but the same guys didn't fix the KDP lol
@@jasontruman1215 basically there are two valves in the t stat one is pressure one is heat regulated
Question hopefully you have time to answer, I’m doing a coolant flush on my 94 12 valve. Idled for 20 minutes and drove for about 45 minutes. Temp gauge stayed around 160-170 or so never touched 190. I’m In texas and it’s stock power just use it to pull my trailer (5k lbs) every so often or just use it for trips, should I switch thermostats or keep the stock one that’s in it? Also is there any way to get all of the coolant out of the block?
I would run the stick Cummins stat. It’s pretty hard to get it all out of the block. I just flush it with water 3-4 times with a drive cycle. Then when you fill it. Put a gallon of concentrate then do 50/50 to fill the rest
@@CUTTERUPROB ok I just got about 4-4.5 gallons out from the drain plug on the rad, what coolant do you suggest?
any diesel coolant it fine
Nice head finish on that 12 valve! ! Also what coolant temperature is a “safe” # to tow at for an extended period of time? I did an east to west coast trip in my 24 v p pump and saw 240- 260 at the highest in the Rockies at 100* ambient temp, towing 10k. Using Mishimoto coolant 180* t stat, factory radiator.
I am going to do some videos talking about temp shortly. If your make more then 350hp that will be a big part of it
The block is design to keep coolant recirculating when the thermostat is close and to help eliminate cavitation at the water pump. When the factory thermostat opens it also closes the port with that bottom valve (24 valves switch over to a plunger style). In theory and in hot areas if that bottom port doesn’t get plug/block it continues to recirculate some of the hot coolant instead of forcing it all through the radiator
@@CUTTERUPROB Thanks. I have compound turbos, and 600-700hp capable. Also running a Stant 180* T stat which is different than a factory Cummins in design.
What t stat did you put in my 5500 ?
Different set up then a 24v but it’s a 190
@@CUTTERUPROB but a Cummins or ?
I'm trying to get my coolant temp up it runs around 140 150 I would rather see around 190
It will sit at 190 with one of them in it.
New thermostat runs at 190°now just wondering what temperature would you consider to hot?
Where you located? GOODMAN !
I am in Calgary Alberta Canada
@@CUTTERUPROB My brother lives near Rocky Mountain House.
My thermo problem is that the engine never heats up.
Have you put a new stat in it ?
@@CUTTERUPROB yes it has a new stat, thinking I will get the high temp mishimoto stat.
53mm or 63mm?
👍👍
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