It seems to me that the radiant barrier could be installed between the wooden batten layers, to provide a backup bulk water layer, while still preserving drying of the insulation and cooling of the underside of metal panels. What do you think? I'm thinking about a roof slope of 5:12, with the location being Northern Idaho. Putting the battens on a 45 degree slope.
Hello Thad, I'm curious if the dimple matt contributes or oil caning? Also, you would only use a dimple matt over a deck, right? (not purlins). Additionally, I'm looking to install a metal roof on an outside gazebo that will be open underneath. The plan is to attach the roof to purlins, but I'm concerned about condensation forming underneath the panel and dripping down from the underside of the roof. Should I use a synthetic underlayment between the metal and purlins?
Here's one for you, i have a metal roof installed on the wood straps/furrings only. there is no plywood or other material between the metal roof and the open attic. So when we hit spring and fall season what I see is a lot of condensation on the underside of the roof, which then sometimes drips into the insulation or if i'm lucky runs down to the metal soffit and exits out. Can you suggest what i could install on the underside of the furrings to help keep water out of attic insulation area and have it always run down to exit via soffit area. I was thinking the metal bubble insulation - thermal roll. your thoughts....
Professionally applied spray foam would work. You need an insulation with zero airspace. Otherwise it will trap water between the metal and the insulation, even if the gap between the two is a fraction of an inch. Even a single inch of sprayed on foam insulation would probably stop the problem. Two inches would be better, bot not necessary, I don't think.
I think the only proper solution to condensation is to prevent the condensation, NOT accommodate it. That's why doing what your installer did is a no-no. The simplest hack to prevent condensation now would be an airtight poly vapor barrier, which is what northern homes put inside all of their walls. People with money would say to spray foam the whole thing and pray.
It seems to me that the radiant barrier could be installed between the wooden batten layers, to provide a backup bulk water layer, while still preserving drying of the insulation and cooling of the underside of metal panels. What do you think? I'm thinking about a roof slope of 5:12, with the location being Northern Idaho. Putting the battens on a 45 degree slope.
Hello Thad, I'm curious if the dimple matt contributes or oil caning? Also, you would only use a dimple matt over a deck, right? (not purlins). Additionally, I'm looking to install a metal roof on an outside gazebo that will be open underneath. The plan is to attach the roof to purlins, but I'm concerned about condensation forming underneath the panel and dripping down from the underside of the roof. Should I use a synthetic underlayment between the metal and purlins?
Thx for link to Matt's video.
Also, is the radiant barrier applied over the Sharkskin peel and stick or is it a separate, stand-alone, product?
Thanks
It is a separate product. Thanks for watching! -Thad
Here's one for you, i have a metal roof installed on the wood straps/furrings only. there is no plywood or other material between the metal roof and the open attic. So when we hit spring and fall season what I see is a lot of condensation on the underside of the roof, which then sometimes drips into the insulation or if i'm lucky runs down to the metal soffit and exits out. Can you suggest what i could install on the underside of the furrings to help keep water out of attic insulation area and have it always run down to exit via soffit area. I was thinking the metal bubble insulation - thermal roll. your thoughts....
Professionally applied spray foam would work. You need an insulation with zero airspace. Otherwise it will trap water between the metal and the insulation, even if the gap between the two is a fraction of an inch. Even a single inch of sprayed on foam insulation would probably stop the problem. Two inches would be better, bot not necessary, I don't think.
I think the only proper solution to condensation is to prevent the condensation, NOT accommodate it. That's why doing what your installer did is a no-no. The simplest hack to prevent condensation now would be an airtight poly vapor barrier, which is what northern homes put inside all of their walls. People with money would say to spray foam the whole thing and pray.