You are a life saver!! My daughter just threw together some crust for lemon pie bars and after a while, I was like "what is taking so long for this thing to preheat?". The boiler worked, burners worked, no oven. I dug on the internet, watched a couple other videos and then came across this one. Within 2 hours of our discovery, we were baking lemon bars!!! Thank you so much!!!!
We obligated ourselves to take a cake to a small get together, then remembered that the oven quit working. Thanks to you, they'll get to have my wife's fantastic carrot cake with cream cheese icing - thank you!! Great to know that you can steal the broiler igniter. I thought it was clear enough even though you didn't show what you did. A word of warning - when the oven door closes, it sounds like a dog being run over. Fantastic with ear buds! Despite your best efforts to hide it, I do now know that you eat Diet Chocolate Cheerios.
Thank you so much for this video!! I was worried we would have to totally replace it. 60 bucks is a lot cheaper than what the ranges go for now. Now just need to order the part. Again thanks so much.
Thanks for doing the video. My stove stopped working and after a little research, it's always good to know that TH-cam is there with a video (yours) confirming and showing everyone what it takes to replace an ignitor. It's amazing how easy it is to fix this. Calling a repair man and spending a hundred dollars or so is ridiculous. The part was only $21 on Amazon. Thanks Again!
This saved my pizza! I was making pizza and had just finished caramelizing onions in a cast iron pan in the oven for about 45-60 mins at 350. When I went to preheat the oven for the pizza, it never got off the "Pre" reading on the oven's digital display. The oven was only mildly hot. Probably cooling down from cooking the onions. I guess this is when my oven igniter died : ( I tried to clean it off, I sprayed it with a can of compressed alcohol, and then air, but it was dead Jim. It didn't come on at all : ( I found your video and am now making my first pizza! It crossed my mind the broiler igniter might be the same as the oven igniter but this was the confirmation and more importantly the information I needed to get my hands dirty. I rarely use the broiler either but may still order the now scavenged and expensive part. This work was kind of intense and a hassle, because you never know if it's gonna work, or explode, etc. and it involves pulling a heavy oven around and taking it apart - but it was better than wasting the pizzas I'd made from scratch that were ready to be cooked, and better than laying out $$$($)? for a new oven. My oven, a GE JGBP33SEH3SS, apparently was manufactured in 2003 in Mexico. I guess these things don't last like they used to. I already replaced the range sensor thermostat 3 years prior, also by watching TH-cam. It was also kind of a hassle. I believe it had a plastic connector jack that didn't match the replacement part I'd got on Amazon : ( Do you know if the igniter stays on until you're done cooking, or does it go off at a certain point after the oven heats up? I believe it goes off when the oven reaches the set temperature. Even though it can be a hassle, it feels pretty great to fix these things on your own. Thanks again! P.S. Measure twice and cut once : )
Its 2017 and the part you needed is MUCH cheaper now. My wife uses the broiler to cook salmon fillets so I ordered the part on-line, through the Walmart site. It ran for about $21 including shipping and arrived in 5 days. It includes one oven plug wire and one wire which was stripped for use with the connecting cap which, I think, are high-heat connectors. That may or may not matter, but I opted for the 21 dollar part rather than a 15 dollar part from elsewhere to avoid complications. The part also came with a bracket which I also may not need. Thanks for the video! Now to find my 1/4 inch socket for my wrench or nut driver.
Awesome video with great tips! I didn't know the same igniter is used for the broiler. I followed your instructions, and swapped the igniters. Presto - my oven is working again! Now I just need to buy a new igniter for $25 for the broiler to work again. Sure beats paying for a repairman, or even worse, getting a new oven.
Hey Folks, I'm here to give an updated 2023 experience. 1st. This` an Excellent Stove/Oven, just thee igniters issue. I opted to remove thee bottom-end of th oven, uncork th wires and remove the igniter. This is a Very Helpful video, Buuut 'i' don't suggest removing that Gas Bar, just Yet!!! Because... Also from underneath, there is a Small Safety Lever that cuts off the existing gas in the Line--- Now--- One can remove that Gas Bar... Just adding some info. Thanks for the Broiler connector info...
Thanks for the comment. I don't recall if mention it in the video but you should always turn off the gas supply to the appliance before performing maintenance or repairs.
Thank you for posting this information. I would have liked to see the repair done so I went to other videos for that. Also, I actually saw 2 ways of getting to the igniter mounting screws 1) taking the venturi out and changing the igniter out and 2) keeping the venturi in and taking the plate below it out to get to the screws. Number 1 is very easy in comparison and took only 45 minutes from start to finish. Very easy fix: 7 screws total and as far as tools its only a screw driver, wire strippers and a 1/4" nut drive with an extender. Piece of cake!
+chris_40 Did you find other videos showing how to replace it on this particular model? So far I'm only seeing them for different ovens. If you have a link to another video for this one, it would be really helpful. Thanks.
Yeah I'm not sure what the Venturi is but I'm assuming it has to do with that pipe that runs right across one of those two screws and gives you about one inch of working room. I'd like to see how to get to that screw or just know it's ok to muscle a flathead around that pipe without fear of damaging it
Thanks for posting this video. Since igniter are cheap I would not recommend taking the top broil igniter out as a temporary replacement...this will just create more work later. Might as well buy a new one igniter and replace the one that is burned out. ....measure twice, cut once. I just completed the job but it took me almost two hours. My GE XL44 is designed different than what you show in the video. I had some trouble removing the burner which slowed me from accessing the old igniter: two screws holding the burner were very difficult to access, also one of the screw stripped on it's way out. In the end I was able to re-insert both screw and install a new igniter. Just thought I would post this comment to show that you may run into unforeseen situations that you will have to fix on the spot.
thanks I got a chinese made one and all the wires had to be lengthened. Pain no room on my kitchen additional shield had to be removed but got it back working again. PS Oven was overdo for cleaning so...... now it is as good as new. Thx for the video. Love You tube.
Appreciate the video, I realize this was 8 years ago but was wondering what you thought about my stove... Glow bar lights up orange but only fires and heats the oven to temperature like 1 out of 5 times and when it does never quickly! Thanks for any help 🙏
I really cannot say for sure, but the igniter may be on it's way out. Since you say the igniter is glowing and getting hot, and then the stove takes longer to heat, that makes me think that it may be a gas supply problem. I know that sometimes with gas fireplaces if you are not running a pilot light, spiders can make a home in the supply line and then you won't get gas flow. These stoves do not have a pilot light since they have an igniter. I am not sure if there's a way to make sure the gas line is clear, probably something to research. Once again, this is a gas stove so please be careful.
This was helpful. The hardest part was getting the screws off and onto the gas bar that the igniter is attached to. You can push up the sheet metal that will expose the top screw better and you can move the gas line a bit to get at the bottom screw. It seems like a bad design that you need to muscle the gas line a bit to get the bottom screw in. Getting them back in was a bit harder. I was using a nut driver but the screw kept falling out. I used a bit of scotch tape to help hold it in place to get it started. I got the OEM igniter from GE, which was an exact match and it came with replacement screws and ceramic caps. One problem was that the caps seemed a little big and it was difficult to get them to tighten, especially in a tight spot.
Did thank you I was looking for this kind of comment regarding that damn screw! So it was ok to just force a flathead driver around that pipe to get to it? Did you go over or under the pipe to get to that screw?
Dude thank you I was looking for this kind of comment regarding that damn screw! So it was ok to just force a flathead driver around that pipe to get to it? Did you go over or under the pipe to get to that screw?
Thanks. You answered the question I've had. We have a GE Profile Spectra XL44 with a different panel. Our igniter sometimes works but most of the time it doesn't. It takes forever for it to heat up. Ours over is 14 years old and we've never used the broiler. (I prefer to BBQ....) Looks like an easy swap.
Gave be the confidence to replace it but was a little long for what information given. Remove front door, racks, anything on top that could fall off and pan drawer in bottom. Two screws in back of bottom tray in oven, then slide back out of groove. Remove screw at front of burner tube in bottom front of oven. Then roll up so you can access the two screws in bottom back for tube then it lifts right out in the oven. This allows you to access the two screws attaching heating element burner tube. Swap out for the new element. Run new wires through the back. Cut old wires and attache the new part with wire nuts. Make sure you leave plenty of wire to attach. I laid the stove on the seat of a chair when I needed to lean forward.
Most ignitors will pull 3.2-3.6 amps in use, what we see nearly all of the time is that it glows but no ignition, 9 times out of 10 it is the ignitor even though it is still glowing. It is not pulling enough amps to open up the gas valve. Sometimes you will here a whoosh sound when it lights off, change the ignitor and look for any corrosion on and around the burner holes where the gas exits by the ignitor. If it is rusted through the holes or deformed in any way, change the burner tube. Good day.
yes, thank you! my glow bar lights up orange but only fires and heats the oven to temperature like 1 out of 5 times and when it does never quickly I may go ahead and replace the ignitor and tube
Nice video thank you for posting. That ignitor goes out like clockwork on those GE ranges - spectra, etc.- just one concern: ceramic wire nuts are a safer bet for splices in a hot oven environment! Regular ones melt!
WARNING: Do NOT disconnect or loosen the gas burner/diffuser - that step is not needed and could lead to weakening the pipe connector - which is potentially dangerous. (Gas explodes). The bottom pan of this oven comes off with (4) 1/4 sheet metal screws, and then 2 more that need to be removed from the body (these are both mounted on either side of the pan). You will need to remove the oven drawer to access these screws. Once those are removed, you can access the (2) 1/4 machine screws that affix the igniter to the gas diffuser. It is then relatively easy, if you have an OEM part, to replace. If not, then you will need to splice the new igniter into the old wiring with the supplied heat resistant wire nuts. NOTE: The wire nuts used here are not heat tempered and so they *might* melt on very high temperatures (just check them to be sure, don't want you to be dealing with a short or worse in the future). I would not use the self clean cycle without knowing those guys won't melt at sustained 500°F. Good luck all!
+GregJoshuaW - Not only are you correct, Greg, but some models (my JGBP30GEP) do not have the two screws that hold the gas burner diffuser under, in the drawer section. It looks like it is the gas-feeding into the diffuser is an assembly, and so difficult to separate.
Not true. This comment cost me two hours worth of trying to get the bottom of my oven off (ridiculous, and I'm not a dumbass) Every oven is different. I contacted GE and they even said taking the bake burner out to access the ignitor for replacement will not cause a gas leak unless I'm the one that causes a rupture, or something of that nature. They said don't over screw things that don't need to be and pretty much just redo what you undid to fix it. There are like 10 other diy videos for this model oven and ALL of them instruct to remove the diffuser, burner whatever it's called
How do you take out those two screws holding the ignitor to the bracket on the oven?! The bottom screw is tucked behind that pipe with only about an inch of working room between that pipe and that screw. I cant get to it from either the top or bottom with a flathead nut driver or 1/4 ratchet & socket
Sorry I am not able to look at mine right now, but I seem to remember that you have to remove the pipe to detach it from the pipe. Is there a screw holding the pipe in place that you access from the rear of the stove?
Go to 445 of your video. Starting there when you are looking underneath, you are looking at those two nuts that are holding the tube to the brackets. Running across those nuts is some kind of curvy pipe that runs off the gas regulator. I can't get a flathead nut driver around that pipe to hit the bottom screw and my 1/4 inch socket wrench doesn't have enough room to squeeze between that nut and that pipe. My question is how to get to that but that's so tightly packed in?
Ok, got bottme done and tried to test oven but without reinstalling upper and lower oven pans. Oven nor broiler will come on now. Broiler worked fine before. Is there a safety device that senses these pans missing which is not allowing operation? Just trying to make sure everything works before putting it all back together.
My GE XL44 has two igniters one for the oven and one for the broiler burner. What is the part number to order another and where do you recommend purchasing it? Seems like GE made it intentionally difficult to reach it.
The point is, if your oven igniter dies, e.g. the bottom igniter, you can use the top broiler igniter as a replacement for the bottom oven igniter. This assumes you need to use the regular oven ASAP and not the broiler. You can then order the spare igniter parts you need at your leisure.
After setting the temp for the oven on my XL44 the burner does start up, but then turns off after a few minutes. The temperature lights on the console also go out. Is this also an igniter problem?
I have a GE XL44. I have replaced the oven glow bar and when I plug in the stove, the control panel doesn't light up but it does hum at alternating levels. I am wondering if there is a reset button for the control panel.
I was wondering what that was on the Top part of the Oven....lol its a Spare? Thanks, let me fix my oven asap. So its Technically not a Back up...lol im not touching that.
Whiskey150 On the GE XL44 model, within the oven itself (door pulled open), the broiler output unit is indeed on top (above the racks) and the baking output unit is on the bottom (below the racks).
kennyw, for sure you are right, If I had started out intending to make this a diy video that is so common today on youtube, I would have probably done just what you said, unfortunately when I made this video almost 9 years ago my first intention was just to record for myself what I did so that if I had to do it again, I would remember, but I only thought of making a recording after I had already done the "repair" and then I was trying to think of where I could put the recording, so that I would find it when I needed it, so I posted it on youtube, thinking I would just go find it again when the time came. I never thought that it would get over 200K views. I hope that it has helped some people, even if the video is not the best or how I would make one today, nor would I probably do the repair the same way today, as many of the comments over time have suggested better ways to do it. There are times when I miss that broiler.... :) Maybe someday if I have to replace that igniter again, I will repair both of them. Thanks for your comment.
Hate to criticize you but all you have to do is remove panel under the stove remove two 1/4 bolts right under the ignitor and disconnect wires easy easy and also those wire nuts are bot approved they sell ceramic one at supply house made for stoves
DarkMadder seemed clear enough for me to swap mine. The guy who made the video isn't doing this professionally, he just made a quick "how I did it" to help people out a bit. Don't be so ungrateful lol
This video will probably get you through the process. With that said it's really rough to sit through and overall a terrible terrible diy video for many reasons.
Thanks for your comment. I think my wife would agree with you. I tend to ramble on, like there was this one time when we were on vacation, I had just had the oil changed in the car at Meineke because the one near me seems to do a good job and they don't try to stick it to you, but anyway, we were heading to the beach and we stopped at Popeye's chicken, man I really love Popeye's red beans and rice. My wife and kids, not so much. this other time, we stopped at a sketchy place was like a truck stop but it had a Popeye's in it, and I ordered a big bowl of red beans and rice but the guy was like, "sorry but it is all beans, we are out of rice. and I was like, 'that's ok. just give me the beans.' and while I was waiting there was this strange guy that was just kind of wandering around like he had nothing to do and I was getting a little nervous, but then the guy gave me my red beans and no rice and when I got in the car I was thinking you know, this really needs rice, so I just saved it until I got home and made some rice, and it was still pretty good. But this other time we were going to the beach, the one in Ocean City, MD which is ok. I used to really like OCMD when I was younger but now I feel like it's too busy, all restaurants and bars and people partying and I am more low key now. They used to have a Popeyes right there in Ocean City on Coastal Highway but I think it closed down and they put something else there now. But that's ok because we don't go to Ocean City much any more...
I replaced it and the igniter is glowing but the gas on but flames are not coming out as high as normal. Almost like the gas line is partially obstructed or something. Any advice?
Adjust Broil and Oven Burner Air Adjustment Shutters. Air adjustment shutters for the top and bottom burners regulate the flow of air to the flames. --->The shutter for the bottom (oven) burner is near the back wall behind the warming drawer. -->Remove the drawer. See the Care and cleaning of the range section. -->To adjust the flow of air to either burner, loosen the Phillips head screw and rotate the shutter toward open or closed position as needed. Open inputs more air lower flame lenghts. Closed less air and more Gas and the Flames are BIGGER! (Just adjust so it is not that big that the flame turns yellow that is too much).
I followed the same steps in the video and my oven is now working again. Scored major points to wifey. Thanks!
You are a life saver!! My daughter just threw together some crust for lemon pie bars and after a while, I was like "what is taking so long for this thing to preheat?". The boiler worked, burners worked, no oven. I dug on the internet, watched a couple other videos and then came across this one. Within 2 hours of our discovery, we were baking lemon bars!!! Thank you so much!!!!
We obligated ourselves to take a cake to a small get together, then remembered that the oven quit working. Thanks to you, they'll get to have my wife's fantastic carrot cake with cream cheese icing - thank you!!
Great to know that you can steal the broiler igniter.
I thought it was clear enough even though you didn't show what you did.
A word of warning - when the oven door closes, it sounds like a dog being run over. Fantastic with ear buds!
Despite your best efforts to hide it, I do now know that you eat Diet Chocolate Cheerios.
Thank you so much for this video!! I was worried we would have to totally replace it. 60 bucks is a lot cheaper than what the ranges go for now. Now just need to order the part. Again thanks so much.
Thanks for doing the video. My stove stopped working and after a little research, it's always good to know that TH-cam is there with a video (yours) confirming and showing everyone what it takes to replace an ignitor. It's amazing how easy it is to fix this. Calling a repair man and spending a hundred dollars or so is ridiculous. The part was only $21 on Amazon. Thanks Again!
Big help, especially the details on removing the gas jet pipe. Will be replacing our igniter this weekend, thanks to your guidance.
thanks, we couldn't be more ecstatic! new home owners FINALLY with a working oven! bring on the baking!
This saved my pizza! I was making pizza and had just finished caramelizing onions in a cast iron pan in the oven for about 45-60 mins at 350. When I went to preheat the oven for the pizza, it never got off the "Pre" reading on the oven's digital display. The oven was only mildly hot. Probably cooling down from cooking the onions. I guess this is when my oven igniter died : (
I tried to clean it off, I sprayed it with a can of compressed alcohol, and then air, but it was dead Jim. It didn't come on at all : (
I found your video and am now making my first pizza! It crossed my mind the broiler igniter might be the same as the oven igniter but this was the confirmation and more importantly the information I needed to get my hands dirty. I rarely use the broiler either but may still order the now scavenged and expensive part.
This work was kind of intense and a hassle, because you never know if it's gonna work, or explode, etc. and it involves pulling a heavy oven around and taking it apart - but it was better than wasting the pizzas I'd made from scratch that were ready to be cooked, and better than laying out $$$($)? for a new oven.
My oven, a GE JGBP33SEH3SS, apparently was manufactured in 2003 in Mexico. I guess these things don't last like they used to. I already replaced the range sensor thermostat 3 years prior, also by watching TH-cam. It was also kind of a hassle. I believe it had a plastic connector jack that didn't match the replacement part I'd got on Amazon : ( Do you know if the igniter stays on until you're done cooking, or does it go off at a certain point after the oven heats up? I believe it goes off when the oven reaches the set temperature.
Even though it can be a hassle, it feels pretty great to fix these things on your own.
Thanks again!
P.S. Measure twice and cut once : )
Thank you. I was stuck at getting the burner arm off and you showed how. Good job.
Amazing tip on the "spare" igniter! Thank you. Fixed our oven in 20 minutes.
Its 2017 and the part you needed is MUCH cheaper now. My wife uses the broiler to cook salmon fillets so I ordered the part on-line, through the Walmart site. It ran for about $21 including shipping and arrived in 5 days. It includes one oven plug wire and one wire which was stripped for use with the connecting cap which, I think, are high-heat connectors. That may or may not matter, but I opted for the 21 dollar part rather than a 15 dollar part from elsewhere to avoid complications. The part also came with a bracket which I also may not need. Thanks for the video! Now to find my 1/4 inch socket for my wrench or nut driver.
Awesome video with great tips! I didn't know the same igniter is used for the broiler. I followed your instructions, and swapped the igniters. Presto - my oven is working again! Now I just need to buy a new igniter for $25 for the broiler to work again. Sure beats paying for a repairman, or even worse, getting a new oven.
Thank you 💓 Your video is very helpful. I found the part on Amazon but had no clue how to install it. Thanks again!!
By god, this was exactly what I needed for getting that igniter unhooked. Thank you!
Hey Folks, I'm here to give an updated 2023 experience.
1st. This` an Excellent Stove/Oven, just thee igniters issue.
I opted to remove thee bottom-end of th oven, uncork th wires and remove the igniter.
This is a Very Helpful video, Buuut 'i' don't suggest removing that Gas Bar, just Yet!!! Because...
Also from underneath, there is a Small Safety Lever that cuts off the existing gas in the Line--- Now--- One can remove that Gas Bar...
Just adding some info.
Thanks for the Broiler connector info...
Thanks for the comment. I don't recall if mention it in the video but you should always turn off the gas supply to the appliance before performing maintenance or repairs.
Thanks for the video!!! One hour later and my oven is working again. Super great explanation.
Thank you for posting this information. I would have liked to see the repair done so I went to other videos for that. Also, I actually saw 2 ways of getting to the igniter mounting screws 1) taking the venturi out and changing the igniter out and 2) keeping the venturi in and taking the plate below it out to get to the screws. Number 1 is very easy in comparison and took only 45 minutes from start to finish. Very easy fix: 7 screws total and as far as tools its only a screw driver, wire strippers and a 1/4" nut drive with an extender. Piece of cake!
+chris_40 Did you find other videos showing how to replace it on this particular model? So far I'm only seeing them for different ovens. If you have a link to another video for this one, it would be really helpful. Thanks.
Yeah I'm not sure what the Venturi is but I'm assuming it has to do with that pipe that runs right across one of those two screws and gives you about one inch of working room. I'd like to see how to get to that screw or just know it's ok to muscle a flathead around that pipe without fear of damaging it
Thanks for posting this video. Since igniter are cheap I would not recommend taking the top broil igniter out as a temporary replacement...this will just create more work later. Might as well buy a new one igniter and replace the one that is burned out. ....measure twice, cut once.
I just completed the job but it took me almost two hours. My GE XL44 is designed different than what you show in the video. I had some trouble removing the burner which slowed me from accessing the old igniter: two screws holding the burner were very difficult to access, also one of the screw stripped on it's way out. In the end I was able to re-insert both screw and install a new igniter. Just thought I would post this comment to show that you may run into unforeseen situations that you will have to fix on the spot.
my gexl44 is also different looking than this one too. got an igniter on amazon linked from a different video and it doesn’t fit correctly 😞
When you don't want to wait a few days for a part to arrive because you are in the middle of cooking, swapping the igniters can save the day.
thanks I got a chinese made one and all the wires had to be lengthened. Pain no room on my kitchen additional shield had to be removed but got it back working again. PS Oven was overdo for cleaning so...... now it is as good as new. Thx for the video. Love You tube.
Thanks brother, just replaced my igniter . Great video.
Appreciate the video, I realize this was 8 years ago but was wondering what you thought about my stove...
Glow bar lights up orange but only fires and heats the oven to temperature like 1 out of 5 times and when it does never quickly! Thanks for any help 🙏
I really cannot say for sure, but the igniter may be on it's way out. Since you say the igniter is glowing and getting hot, and then the stove takes longer to heat, that makes me think that it may be a gas supply problem. I know that sometimes with gas fireplaces if you are not running a pilot light, spiders can make a home in the supply line and then you won't get gas flow. These stoves do not have a pilot light since they have an igniter. I am not sure if there's a way to make sure the gas line is clear, probably something to research. Once again, this is a gas stove so please be careful.
This was helpful. The hardest part was getting the screws off and onto the gas bar that the igniter is attached to. You can push up the sheet metal that will expose the top screw better and you can move the gas line a bit to get at the bottom screw. It seems like a bad design that you need to muscle the gas line a bit to get the bottom screw in. Getting them back in was a bit harder. I was using a nut driver but the screw kept falling out. I used a bit of scotch tape to help hold it in place to get it started. I got the OEM igniter from GE, which was an exact match and it came with replacement screws and ceramic caps. One problem was that the caps seemed a little big and it was difficult to get them to tighten, especially in a tight spot.
Did thank you I was looking for this kind of comment regarding that damn screw! So it was ok to just force a flathead driver around that pipe to get to it? Did you go over or under the pipe to get to that screw?
Dude thank you I was looking for this kind of comment regarding that damn screw! So it was ok to just force a flathead driver around that pipe to get to it? Did you go over or under the pipe to get to that screw?
i got the same ctove and the same problem and this video is a great help , thanks
Whats the part# of part you bought
Thank you for saving my dinner!!
Thanks. You answered the question I've had. We have a GE Profile Spectra XL44 with a different panel. Our igniter sometimes works but most of the time it doesn't. It takes forever for it to heat up. Ours over is 14 years old and we've never used the broiler. (I prefer to BBQ....) Looks like an easy swap.
Your ignitor is bad.
Thank you this helped me alot.Just in time for thanksgiving.
Gave be the confidence to replace it but was a little long for what information given.
Remove front door, racks, anything on top that could fall off and pan drawer in bottom.
Two screws in back of bottom tray in oven, then slide back out of groove.
Remove screw at front of burner tube in bottom front of oven. Then roll up so you can access the two screws in bottom back for tube then it lifts right out in the oven.
This allows you to access the two screws attaching heating element burner tube. Swap out for the new element. Run new wires through the back. Cut old wires and attache the new part with wire nuts. Make sure you leave plenty of wire to attach.
I laid the stove on the seat of a chair when I needed to lean forward.
Most ignitors will pull 3.2-3.6 amps in use, what we see nearly all of the time is that it glows but no ignition, 9 times out of 10 it is the ignitor even though it is still glowing. It is not pulling enough amps to open up the gas valve. Sometimes you will here a whoosh sound when it lights off, change the ignitor and look for any corrosion on and around the burner holes where the gas exits by the ignitor. If it is rusted through the holes or deformed in any way, change the burner tube. Good day.
Thank you!!
yes, thank you! my glow bar lights up orange but only fires and heats the oven to temperature like 1 out of 5 times and when it does never quickly
I may go ahead and replace the ignitor and tube
Dude you just saved my Thanksgiving. Im thankful. Well done (no pun intended...okay yeah it was.)
Thanks just repaired my oven, never knew about the spare.
This was so helpful! Thanks very much!
this just happened to me thanks for making the video
Success. I decided to use broiler igniter as replacement for the over igniter, since i almost never use Boiler.
Thanks for the Video. it helped me a lot
Mine just went out 2 days ago. But hey it’s a 25 year old oven. Good thing it didn’t happen Thanksgiving morning 😀
I’ll just buy a new stove.
Nice video thank you for posting. That ignitor goes out like clockwork on those GE ranges - spectra, etc.- just one concern: ceramic wire nuts are a safer bet for splices in a hot oven environment! Regular ones melt!
WARNING: Do NOT disconnect or loosen the gas burner/diffuser - that step is not needed and could lead to weakening the pipe connector - which is potentially dangerous. (Gas explodes).
The bottom pan of this oven comes off with (4) 1/4 sheet metal screws, and then 2 more that need to be removed from the body (these are both mounted on either side of the pan). You will need to remove the oven drawer to access these screws. Once those are removed, you can access the (2) 1/4 machine screws that affix the igniter to the gas diffuser. It is then relatively easy, if you have an OEM part, to replace.
If not, then you will need to splice the new igniter into the old wiring with the supplied heat resistant wire nuts. NOTE: The wire nuts used here are not heat tempered and so they *might* melt on very high temperatures (just check them to be sure, don't want you to be dealing with a short or worse in the future). I would not use the self clean cycle without knowing those guys won't melt at sustained 500°F.
Good luck all!
+GregJoshuaW - Not only are you correct, Greg, but some models (my JGBP30GEP) do not have the two screws that hold the gas burner diffuser under, in the drawer section. It looks like it is the gas-feeding into the diffuser is an assembly, and so difficult to separate.
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Joshua man thanks for your comment. it helped me and my family stay safe. the way Chris did this didn't seem right to me. again thanks.
Not true. This comment cost me two hours worth of trying to get the bottom of my oven off (ridiculous, and I'm not a dumbass)
Every oven is different. I contacted GE and they even said taking the bake burner out to access the ignitor for replacement will not cause a gas leak unless I'm the one that causes a rupture, or something of that nature. They said don't over screw things that don't need to be and pretty much just redo what you undid to fix it. There are like 10 other diy videos for this model oven and ALL of them instruct to remove the diffuser, burner whatever it's called
Loving it!!
thanks you are great, you helped me!
How do you take out those two screws holding the ignitor to the bracket on the oven?! The bottom screw is tucked behind that pipe with only about an inch of working room between that pipe and that screw. I cant get to it from either the top or bottom with a flathead nut driver or 1/4 ratchet & socket
Sorry I am not able to look at mine right now, but I seem to remember that you have to remove the pipe to detach it from the pipe. Is there a screw holding the pipe in place that you access from the rear of the stove?
I just watched the video again and I explained how to remove the bar that the igniter is attached to in order to replace the igniter around 4:00
Go to 445 of your video. Starting there when you are looking underneath, you are looking at those two nuts that are holding the tube to the brackets. Running across those nuts is some kind of curvy pipe that runs off the gas regulator. I can't get a flathead nut driver around that pipe to hit the bottom screw and my 1/4 inch socket wrench doesn't have enough room to squeeze between that nut and that pipe. My question is how to get to that but that's so tightly packed in?
This is a great sleep remedy.
Ok, got bottme done and tried to test oven but without reinstalling upper and lower oven pans. Oven nor broiler will come on now. Broiler worked fine before. Is there a safety device that senses these pans missing which is not allowing operation? Just trying to make sure everything works before putting it all back together.
Enjoyed the video! What brand/model camera did you use for the recording? GoPro?
How do you get the bottom cover off to check the ignite? I don’t know how to get it off because I don’t see screws
My GE XL44 has two igniters one for the oven and one for the broiler burner. What is the part number to order another and where do you recommend purchasing it? Seems like GE made it intentionally difficult to reach it.
I believe the illustrious "spare" is the broiler igniter...
If neither the broiler or the stove will fire, do I need to buy a part instead of switching the broiler igniter for the stove igniter?
I wonder the same! what did you do?
I don't think there is a spare igniter. The one you removed on top is the igniter for the broiler.
The point is, if your oven igniter dies, e.g. the bottom igniter, you can use the top broiler igniter as a replacement for the bottom oven igniter. This assumes you need to use the regular oven ASAP and not the broiler. You can then order the spare igniter parts you need at your leisure.
After setting the temp for the oven on my XL44 the burner does start up, but then turns off after a few minutes. The temperature lights on the console also go out. Is this also an igniter problem?
Hey bro if you pull up on the oven door it will come right off and be out of your way.
True but you still need to remove the bottom tray and cover to reach the nuts.
I have a GE XL44. I have replaced the oven glow bar and when I plug in the stove, the control panel doesn't light up but it does hum at alternating levels. I am wondering if there is a reset button for the control panel.
???? Did you, ever, get an answer because my GE XL44 control panel isn't lighting up, neither!
Where did you get the part?
Shop the part around. I got it for 25 bucks at Amazon.
Thank you
Can it just be relit
Very bad advise telling people to cut wires to the broiler for a temporary fix and also you must use ceramic wire nuts not plastic ones.
Yes, a new part comes with Ceramic wire nuts.
You can also use Whirpool Part number 4342528. OEM and warranteed.
@4:30 it scared the shot outta me. Im doing this alone so yea i almost jumped in the oven
Thanks for giving approx cost of part
I was wondering what that was on the Top part of the Oven....lol its a Spare? Thanks, let me fix my oven asap. So its Technically not a Back up...lol im not touching that.
This doesn't look like my GE XL44
the broiler is on the bottom! burners are on top!
Whiskey150 On the GE XL44 model, within the oven itself (door pulled open), the broiler output unit is indeed on top (above the racks) and the baking output unit is on the bottom (below the racks).
Thanks. Would have liked to have seen the splicing done.
lol me too
Always use ceramic connectors as these are exposed to heat. They should come with the new ignitor.
For an instructional video, you should have started from the beginning, showing the entire process, insted of describing what you did.
kennyw, for sure you are right, If I had started out intending to make this a diy video that is so common today on youtube, I would have probably done just what you said, unfortunately when I made this video almost 9 years ago my first intention was just to record for myself what I did so that if I had to do it again, I would remember, but I only thought of making a recording after I had already done the "repair" and then I was trying to think of where I could put the recording, so that I would find it when I needed it, so I posted it on youtube, thinking I would just go find it again when the time came. I never thought that it would get over 200K views. I hope that it has helped some people, even if the video is not the best or how I would make one today, nor would I probably do the repair the same way today, as many of the comments over time have suggested better ways to do it. There are times when I miss that broiler.... :) Maybe someday if I have to replace that igniter again, I will repair both of them. Thanks for your comment.
why didnt you just cut and butt connect the connectors? then you dont need to climb underneath :D
Hate to criticize you but all you have to do is remove panel under the stove remove two 1/4 bolts right under the ignitor and disconnect wires easy easy and also those wire nuts are bot approved they sell ceramic one at supply house made for stoves
EN ESPAÑOL LOS VIDEOS
I only want to know how to take the bottom pan out lol
I did this exactly and now my gas isn't coming in!? anyone please help
Good video but too much jabbering. Would be helpful if only stuck to what's relevant
Don't you think it a good idea to actually SHOW what u did in your tutorial video??
DarkMadder seemed clear enough for me to swap mine. The guy who made the video isn't doing this professionally, he just made a quick "how I did it" to help people out a bit. Don't be so ungrateful lol
@@JaredKJames I agree it was nice of him to make the video he's not a professional movie maker. LOL.
this a dangerous way to fix Your oven .
This video will probably get you through the process. With that said it's really rough to sit through and overall a terrible terrible diy video for many reasons.
z
Get to the point
Thanks for your comment. I think my wife would agree with you. I tend to ramble on, like there was this one time when we were on vacation, I had just had the oil changed in the car at Meineke because the one near me seems to do a good job and they don't try to stick it to you, but anyway, we were heading to the beach and we stopped at Popeye's chicken, man I really love Popeye's red beans and rice. My wife and kids, not so much. this other time, we stopped at a sketchy place was like a truck stop but it had a Popeye's in it, and I ordered a big bowl of red beans and rice but the guy was like, "sorry but it is all beans, we are out of rice. and I was like, 'that's ok. just give me the beans.' and while I was waiting there was this strange guy that was just kind of wandering around like he had nothing to do and I was getting a little nervous, but then the guy gave me my red beans and no rice and when I got in the car I was thinking you know, this really needs rice, so I just saved it until I got home and made some rice, and it was still pretty good. But this other time we were going to the beach, the one in Ocean City, MD which is ok. I used to really like OCMD when I was younger but now I feel like it's too busy, all restaurants and bars and people partying and I am more low key now. They used to have a Popeyes right there in Ocean City on Coastal Highway but I think it closed down and they put something else there now. But that's ok because we don't go to Ocean City much any more...
Thanks for showing me absolutely nothing .......... Next video .....
dude this sucks
Dude. Get to the point.
Gee, the guy is taking his time to provide a free service. Go to hell.
I replaced it and the igniter is glowing but the gas on but flames are not coming out as high as normal. Almost like the gas line is partially obstructed or something. Any advice?
Adjust Broil and Oven Burner Air Adjustment Shutters. Air adjustment shutters for the top and bottom burners regulate the flow of air to the flames. --->The shutter for the bottom (oven) burner is near the back wall behind the warming drawer. -->Remove the drawer. See the Care and cleaning of the range section.
-->To adjust the flow of air to either burner, loosen the Phillips head screw and rotate the shutter toward open or closed position as needed. Open inputs more air lower flame lenghts. Closed less air and more Gas and the Flames are BIGGER! (Just adjust so it is not that big that the flame turns yellow that is too much).