For anyone with the PA, if you have a 3d printer or know anyone with one, there are some really good easy to make parts to improve the PA for free to be found online. I printed a brace for the arm and a universal stone holder for mine, which makes it more than good enough for non professional use imo.
Great video Zac! After picking up the WorkSharp Professional Precision Adjust I nerded out for a week watching review/tutorial videos like this one before sharpening my first knife, an old Ruko 3.5" lockback I recently found again after losing track of it over 20 years ago. The blade was so dull and folded over it wouldn't cut a worm. I set my angle to 17.5 degrees, got started, and about 2.5 hours later I had a blade that effortlessly cut paper into fine ribbons and can take the hair right off my arm like a straight razor. The results I got even as a first time noob are truly astonishing.
@@sharpthingsinspace9721 Thanks, I'll keep an eye out. I've probably assembled it and disassembled it about 15 times and sharpened many knives and so far so good, no negative issues, just scary sharp blade edges. I'll have to switch over to my spare strop panel soon, but everything's working great.
@@davidsapir3764 I wish I could find the channel that had it longer than you. He made modifications to correct the problems but I never intended to buy it so I didn’t save it.
I think it is a little overpriced considering that it still has a lot of plastic. I would ditch the little knife thing and bring it in a lower price. Are the stones diamond, I wonder.
@@gro967 Yeah it is. That price is pretty close to TSProf level. With plastic there is deflection. I would pay maybe 200 bucks for that if they got rid of the little knife attachment.
I’m a midget with fat fingers. I have arthritis terribly. I have lots of knives. I like the magnet strength of the magnets that holds things together on different parts so much that I found that I am enjoying the ‘magna-therapy on my fat fingers after I tore it all apart. I do feel much better, thank you
Worksharp got people in the door with the regular precision adjust, and now they are giving people an option to step up to. Much better than starting expensive in my opinion.
I started out with the precision adjust, very quickly found it was excellent for small pocket knives. It, however, is very lacking for bigger blades, something it probably shares with this new version. I ended up progressing from the work sharp to a wicked edge system within a couple of months.
@@GertTown All you need is 3 whetstones, a shaping stone, a sharpening stone and a finishing stone, and a functioning brain/arms. That's all you need to take any knife from chipped and damaged to razor sharp and mirror polished. Three stones and extremely basic easy to learn skills. Quicker, easier, cheaper, better results. But. Knife land and knife bros are some boy brained man children.
@@UkuleleJayBBQ Hey man. It depends on two things. One, your preferences in stones. And 2, the needs you have, meaning the tools you have. The main thing that means is high vanadium carbide steels - yes or no. If no, then any high quality stones, I strongly suggest splash and go, will do. For example Shapton Pro. A 3 stone set is one of each type of stone. The 120 to 320 are the shaping stones. Pick one. The 1k to 2k are the sharpening stones. Pick one. The 5k to 12k are the finishing stones. Pick one. I suggest 220, 2k and 12k. Those grits are only for that particular line of stones. It will be different for different brands. A norton 4k for example is closer to 1k in a Japanese stone. You just need to know which stones are which. Now - If you do have a lot of high vanadium carbide blades, steels like say k390 or basically anything like that. Not very common, but it does exist. Then youre going to need either silicon carbide stones or diamond. I'm a fan of the 240 and 1k Sigma Select 2 stones, which use green silicon carbide and cut everything up to maxamet perfectly and don;t break the bank. The issue is the polishing stone. Youre gonna need diamond for that. Something like a Venev will do the trick. Or you could get the whole set with diamond stones but thats more expensive obviously.
Looks to be a great improvement on the original. Well made, very stable and able to cope with a wide spectrum of knife sizes. To people that say the stones wear out quickly, my "Top Tip" is to clean them after each use with a Staedtler pencil eraser. It removes all the metal particles embedded in them and they come up like new again. I've used mine a lot and never had to replace a "worn out" stone.
Its like going from a Lansky to a KME. I like the direction that WorkSharp is heading. I really hope we can get some lower grit stones. 220 is going to hold back the ability to reprofile or repair edges on the “super steels”. Great video as always Zak
I thought the same thing until I got this system and began using it. The 220 grit diamond stone is extremely aggressive. Even the 320 grit is very aggressive. I have found that I rarely ever use the 220 or even the 320. The 220 will effectively re-profile a heavily damaged blade. For a very dull and well used blade, I'll start with the 400 grit stone and work my way up thru the leather strop (400, 600, 800, ceramic hone and the leather strop). Most standard resharpening jobs only require 600 grit and up (that's 600, 800, ceramic hone and the leather strop). Lower grits may be necessary for some hardened tool steels, but i think they would rarely be used. These diamond stones are very aggressive. I just wonder how long they will last.
Finally Work Sharp! I went to a gun show years ago and picked up a Benchmade Presidio, and walked by an demonstrator for what was then the Work Sharp belt sharpener, their first one, and the guy wanted to show how it worked, and I too wanted to see how it worked and when he gave me my knife back, it now had a re curved blade! Not impressed! Not to mention the SPARKS flying off my knife blade! WTF? But finally, this looks like something I would be into!
Having sharpened enough blades on my precision adjust, I can see that they have really addressed any shortfalls of the original at a decent price. Thanks for showing it off for us Zac.
I’ve always been challenged when it comes to sharpening, so much so that I pretty much buy a new knife when mine got dull. I looked at the wicked edge but that’s crazy expensive. I got the precision adjust and it worked well for me, but was quite limited on the size of the knife I could sharpen. So I gave it to a buddy when I got the “pro” . After using it on many inexpensive knives I finally went after my expensive chef knife and my ZT with great results. So to me it’s worth it. If you can sharpen free hand it may not be to you.
I have given Work Sharp a lot of flack on the previous design. But it is sooo refreshing to see the Work Sharp listens to their consumers and did a MASSIVE improvement. Very impressed! Last but but very far from least having Zac introduce this to us. Well done!
The problem that isn't really solved (and inherent to this style sharpener) is the angle changing over the sweep - especially noticeable on a drop point in the 3-4+" range. You'll end up with a higher grind toward the tip vs at the heel. You can try to 'split the difference' by repositioning but the problem is still there.
The distance blade/grindi g rod pivot is far 4:07 too short. There are some sharpening Tools on the Marketing, with a very long arc radius, however all in the upmarket price range
Any system like this is going to have a bit of sweep angle variance. Most of the time if you sharpen by hand you will see variance in angle as well, as most people just don’t hold the knife perfectly as they progress. A bit of angle change toward the tip will not hurt the blade, and for that matter it will not be enough of a difference to make a difference for most people carrying a knife!!
It's awesome to see Work Sharp working hard at keeping up with the systems from outside of the US and making a really good US made sharpener available. I'm also glad to see they have incorporated the idea of my Leading Edge magnetic platform and stabilizer that I designed for the regular Precision adjust into this upgraded system. Well done Work Sharp!
I have a KME and the TSPROF was the big brother upgrade. Now this thing is like the baby of all the current sharpeners and probably at a cheaper price lol
I never own a knife sharpener before & after seeing this video, I fell in love with this tool. My new Ka-Bar Becker BK2 Campanion BK2 would love a precise sharpening (like a haircut!) after a trashing of dead wood in the rainforest.
Lovely video. However @12:15 you are saying that the flex is in the knife itself. That knife is like 5 or 6 mm thick, you will not see that flex for sure. When looking at this, it seems to me that the rubber in the clamp causes the knife to move.
Great to see worksharp improving on their systems. I have the ken onion with blade grinding attachment which is great for tools , cheaper blades and quick re profiling. For my nicer knives I have the wicked edge.
Looks good and I'm going to pick it up. I still have my reservations on the small sharpening table though. It uses the same sharpening style that the Edge Pro Apex uses, but still has the same drawbacks. Because it's not clamped, it's up to the user to prevent the knife from moving which can be challenging, you can't feel for a burr when it's in place, and depending on the spine and belly of the blade, flipping it over might not get you symmetry so you'd have to constantly change that adjusting nut on each flip. Happy to give it a shot for sure, but unless it's mind blowing, I'll most likely stick with sharpening small blades on the Ken Onion w/ Blade Grinding Attachment.
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
06:45 - the only small criticism I have of this is that your angle reading on the actual sharpener and the reading on the digital indicator are 2 complete different readings which shows that the readings on the actual device cant be too reliable because depending on the size of the knife that reading becomes more inaccurate, difficult to fix, I'd probably rely more on the digital indicator.
It can never be accurate for every knife due to differences in width between knives. The digital indicator ensures that your bevel is the same every time. So it shouldn't be a criticism at all, in my opinion.
Been doing research and sharpener watched video on the smaller one and was concerned about big knives was looking for do all and this sold me thank a lot lol purchased after watching
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
Honestly really good value for what it is. I'm just starting out my freehand journey with their Guided Sharpening System, but if I-a regular, amateur, knife enjoyer-were to get a fixed-style system, I think I'd go for this over a KME or TS Prof if for no other reason than the sheer value 👍🏼👍🏼
That tilting base is great. That was the biggest peeve of mine on the pa that the vise was flimsy and you had to take the vise clamp support out to flip it everytime. I would hope someone makes an aftermarket stone holder for it. I will definitely sell my pa to get this one.
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042 Now, when you say, "only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole length of the blade this kind of system will work". That means the sweep's radius much not change from a level plain? This and other pivot held sharpeners can't conform to a radius that tapers. Like a hunting knife, where the sweep may lose thickness in the blade along the sweep - it has a taper along the radius of the sweep?
Love you Zac. I make custom knives and always strive for an ultimate and precise edge because it’s fun. This system looks great. I would just sharpen the small knives freehand, but I can see how a lot of people might not fell cool with that. My only gripe about this sharpener is the magnets. I can’t stand it when my blades are magnetized and avoid it every step of the way. I want those particles to fall off my edge and my stones, not get in the way. Maybe I’m sensitive to it because there’s a ton of small particles in my shop that latch onto anything magnetic. I just don’t like the idea of a custom $600 kitchen knife leaving steel particles in food that it picked up because it’s magnetized.
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
I like the upgrades a lot. I do wish they had a blank guide you can use 4" stones but I'm sure Gritomatic is already looking to design the piece. Will definitely upgrade from my base model PA.
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
This is true, and I had concerns initially with these types of systems. You can adjust for this as you approach curves, but I have come to the conclusion that a degree or two on a 10 inch chef’s knife is not going to make a huge difference. Especially true if both sides are sharpened to the same angle. Don’t get caught up in all of the mathematics, unless you want to do it freehand on a stone.
Amazing system that is available for the price that most knife people spend on a quality knife. As a tsprof user the only thing I see that it lacks is the ability to use any stone available in that size range. But I'm sure there will be aftermarket parts to use any stones in the future. If I was new to sharpening and needed a system I'd definitely buy this.
I had the original and wasn't very impressed. I still believe it was a great entry-level fixed system for the price. I moved up to the KME recently. At the new systems price point, you start competing with some very good systems. I'm glad to see work sharp listening to the community's wants.
thank you for the video, I'm a pro-Chef and a EDC knife carrier. I use my own Knives for everything and my EDC breaks down boxes to scraping the gunk of the floor. I use the older Work Sharp Sharpener in my every day life. I sharpen my knives once every week depending on use. Where is the caring case? for such a wonderful tool to sharpen my knives I would love a hard case to put it away when not in use off my work counter. Also kind of disappointed as I went to the sight and the "Professional Precision Adjust" was sold out on the sight. Also I love the fact you don't need oil or water to use the sharpener
As an engineer, owning a KME, wanting a TSprof, and so many other things, this thing has me fucking baffled. I have never been this impressed with a full, all in one kit right out the box in my life. IM getting one and oh my god im excited.
Hi Torling, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042 it's actually usually useful becuase the belly is where I want my shallower edge. Brother I know all the science behind angle, grit, microns, different scratch patterns, you name it. A little thing like slight, CONSISTENT variation is not a problem. If you make sure you put the knife back in the same, same angle and sharpie it you can do just fine. Also, make sure to become more collected with your comments if you wanna make point, for future reference Lastly I can freehand a hair whittler no problem so I don't think any of this matters, if a knife can cut well what more does a person really need.
Get the TSprof K03. As a fellow engineer and sharpening nerd, I wish I bought mine years ago. There really is no competition or comparison, especially with the digital cube. It's a precision piece of machined art that happens to be a phenomenally accurate and flexible sharpening system.
When you get into sharpening larger blades isn't the angle at the belly going to be more obtuse than the angle at the tip? Or is that considered too small of a difference to matter?
Thanks for the review, very well done. Sharpening systems are about two things; keeping the same angle, and the quality of the stones you use. Obviously this system locks in the blade so you keep the same angle, but please comment on the quality of the stones. We all know not all diamond plates are created equal, and you can spend hundreds of dollars on wet stones. How does the quality of the diamond plates compare to say a Trend? Would there be any way to adapt this to handle a PSA 3M film? Thanks again for the great review. Looking forward to an actual sharpening session.
Looks very nice. It would have been interesting to use the digital gauge see how the angle changes from center to tip on the big knife. I don’t believe any sharpener addresses keeping a stable angle perpendicular to the edge.
This is a fundamental flaw of this style in my understanding. I have a KME, but yeah, that is not ideal. Pull through belt-sander styles do better I would assume, but come with their own drawbacks.
@@laurelrunlaurelrun For the price and purported sophistication of this sharpener, I would expect it to somehow deal with that very obvious shortcoming in this style of sharpener. I assume Work Sharp is well aware of this issue. I have the original Work Sharp ½” belt sharpener which can get an edge wicked sharp with the 6000 grit belt if I’m careful enough, but admittedly I’ve messed up a few blade tips trying to guide the blade tip manually across the slack belt with only one area of support.
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
These companies need to stop putting magnets on EVERYTHING!!! Especially on products that grinds on ferrous metals. As a welder, I'll tell you everything I have with magnetic attachments is covered in grinding dust.
I LOVE magnets but I agree, I work in laser cutting and every magnet in the shop is covered in a fuzzy layer of fine dust. Even without magnets it gets in your phone, watch, knife...
I can not tell you how much I appreciate the effort and ingenuity you fellas put into your work. Unfortunately, my wife would killmeif I boughtone of these new Precision Adjust units. Maybe in a ouple of years. However, I will continue to bragg up your products to my friends. Your ervice is also second to none.
As much as i like the changes in the new version, $300 is territory of much more precise and solid systems. I feel like Worksharp took a big bite of inflation on this one. The frame is cast, which is cheap to produce and the digital angle guide is not precise since its on a round rod and also very cheap, you can get a more precise one for under $10. MSRP should have been $200, then they would be competitive. I'll stick to my elite system, with the $7 dollar clamp support. I don't have any teenie tiny blades like that boker and can sharpen my SAK blades with current system. I wouldn't even attempt to sharpen my El Chete on this new system, simply due to weight, not blade length. If you are a supporter of Worksharp gear and have the extra $ to spend on this new system, go for it, its a sweet system. I don't think this new system is bad, just feel its too expensive for what you get. For the money, i'd personally spend elsewhere. *As a side note - I have not used this new system and therefore can't offer advice based on actual usage of it. YMMV and your budget isn't mine. 😁
What can you get for $300 that's better than this? When those Russian sharpeners first came out they were in the $300 range but they went up to nearly $500 almost immediately. Not doubting you, genuinely curious.
@Twat Munro Off top of my head, Ruixin is under $200 and KME is $200, unless you get deluxe and that's $320. There are more and its easy to find with Google search.
WHY does nobody address the issue with angle when it comes to the center position versus the outside positions. Sure I can set maybe 2 to 3 inches of surface to the perfect angle in the center area of the work sharp precision adjust. However, the second I put a knife on there that’s anything longer than 5-6 inches and I reach out to sharpen, the tip, or reach out to sharpen the base section. The angle quickly adjusts 3 to 4° and is no longer anywhere near that specific 17° angle that I want to hone in on. That is a massive oversight with these sharpeners. And why does nobody bring it up at all. Am I missing something?
That is exactly what im thinking, even on a medium knife the difference in the bevel is noticeably different, that's why the edge pro is superior to this, especially for large blades.
Just when you thought that Work Sharp had thought of everything with their original, they scanned through thousands of comments and reviews and found little adjustments to make it even better. Man I wish more brands would do that for their products. Costs a premium but it’s literally EVERYTHING you could ask for.
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Nice upgrades but wouldn’t call it Pro for these reasons : The flex is in the rubber clamp not the knife. Perhaps the amount of surface area clamping the knife or the thickness/hardness of the rubber caused the flex. How do you ensure the digital angle guide is sitting 180 flat on a rounded rod ? You could see the angle change when you were rotating it @ 6:45. Also why are the printed angles on the unit so far off from what the angle gauge indicates? Wish it allowed third party stone options. Will likely have to wait for another company to create adapters again.
I got the worksharp field sharpener in my tool box, I am not good at sharpening but it does the job. Looking forward to this though, hope my girl doesn't mind it being put in the kitchen!
I love your channel and look forward to every new video, but this looks more like a payed promo than a review. In my eyes you come across more as a sales rep for Work Sharp than an independent reviewer. Still looking forward to the next video though.👍
This is exactly what this video was. It wasn't a review. We didn't see an actual knife sharpened. It was straight up a sales pitch. Looking forward to other more objective reviewers getting there hands on it. Pete from Ada & Cedric!
I've used (and modded) my PA quite a bit and this looks to incorporate every single thing I would hope for in a more premium/expensive revision. Looks like a fairly impressive product. Edit: I really wish they'd give it more ability to go under 15 dps as opposed to over 25. I'm able to get 11 on my PA though, so it's not super necessary. Still, I can't imagine ever using a guided sharpener to put on a >25 degree edge.
Hi CNYKnifeNut CNYKnifeNut , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
To be fair worksharp is a business not a charity so why would they NOT restrict it to their own stones ? Your hardly going to drop millions on developing a new system and then allow the customer to use other manufacturers parts on it are you ?
I own both, I'm gonna be honest, this one is better solely for the fact it has a clamp instead of a stupid ass ramp that scratches your high end blades and fatigues your hand easily on longer sessions
I was just thinking need to get a nice sharpener to touch up my knives and a buddy of mine knives too along with the kitchen knives at the house and then of course Zac comes out with a video of one.
They need to give you a better way to rack the tightener more cause not forcefull hard hand tight was never enough without like using extra leverage to tighten it more
I’ve been hand sharpening for over 50 years, but finally wanted to pull the pin on a guided sharpener. I’ve been doing a lot of comparison shopping, and had finally decided I was probably going to go with the KME (I don’t have the bread for the Russian TS Prof K03 I was very impressed with.) But now I’m not so sure. It looks like they’ve thought of everything with this unit. My sole concern is the digital angle gauge, as anything electronic is bound to fail eventually, but I can do without it if that happens, and for that matter have a small table saw angle gauge that’s about the same size. All in all very impressed with how they’ve thought it through. If I do get it (and you reloaders know what I’m talking about) my first call will be to Inline Fab to get a custom top plate made for this base. Lock it into the quick change base plate on my bench and it will be a rock solid mount. Thanks for the first look! 👍
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042 Sorry, I do disagree with you. It’s still a fixed angle whether the edge bears against the first quarter or the last fifth of the fixed angle stone, and whether the edge is straight or even has a radical recurve. The same holds true if using a SharpMaker or a Washita stone or a Diamond hone or a small flat bastard file to reprofile the edge. There’s nothing about this system that’s going to damage an edge, even if you set the angle at an angle totally different from the factory one, you will just reset the edge profile, which I’ve done many times by hand. I think your basic premise is flawed and subsequent bias against this system is incorrect, but thanks for your opinion.
@@E.L.RipleyAtNostromo i dont know if you do it wrong in this 50 years or you just want to do it like that. I am not a seller or against this system because i have something to win or loose but i will like to see a system that really does an angle for the whole edge the same not like this. Itis simple matematics when you keep the same point and change the distance , the angle changes, it is simple, even if you dont want to admit. And this is the way to be better in anything trying to understand and accepting the flaws, otherwise we will evolve much slower because of stubbernness.
With the OG precision adjust, I can get an edge to whittle a hair. But I can't wait to make that process way more enjoyable. Ceep up the great work, I love what you do
Why at 7:12 the main arm on the left indicates 23° analog angle and the digital display 25,25°? Is there a reason they can not set more precise in the factory? What is the point to giving an analog indicator that is off with about 2°? Sorry if this question is stupid, I just acquired my first knife and I am just starting to learn about sharpening (systems). Peace
Not a stupid question at all but a couple things you need to realize. Number one, the numbers on the device are for reference only. Plus, there’s no knife in the clamp. Number two, the size of the knife blade will also come into play. In other words, a bigger blade like a chef knife will have a different degree as opposed to a smaller knife like a Swiss Army knife if the device were set to 23°. You’re always measuring the degree at the knife’s edge. That’s why you use the digital angle cube.
Doesn’t knob that sets the angle lock? I felt like on the old one it wasn’t 100% set. Also I had issues tightening the clamp to where knife could not move when
I just picked one up at the Atlanta Blade Show. What im shocked by still is that no one has a true solution for double-edge, dagger blades. This sharpener is actually easily modded to accept dagger blades. Great sharpener!
Nice upgrade, I have the original, but am willing to spend the extra money for these upgrades. I’ll sell the original, or bless one of my friends with it. Thanks for the video and info.
Really happy to see this. Ive had my eyes on the Wicked Edge for years but could never justify the price, this looks like it could be great for a much more reasonable price
Hi. Forgive my ignorance but can someone explain how the 800 grit diamond abrasive is being called "fine"? I have seem so many knife sharpening videos and blogs saying 1000 grit is considered the coarse abrasive and "fine" is like 3000 or higher. I'm confused. What am I missing?
Nice! I have the original and liked it a lot, but like everyone else I had the same concerns; nice to see that this new version addressed the shortcomings of the original.
Just got my upgrade kit first of April, and bought some aftermarket 3D printed stuff off of Etsy (plus a digital angle finder). Spent probably around $150 bucks to upgrade my Precision Adjust. Then Worksharp is bringing this out... Guess I better start saving up...
For anyone with the PA, if you have a 3d printer or know anyone with one, there are some really good easy to make parts to improve the PA for free to be found online. I printed a brace for the arm and a universal stone holder for mine, which makes it more than good enough for non professional use imo.
Great video Zac! After picking up the WorkSharp Professional Precision Adjust I nerded out for a week watching review/tutorial videos like this one before sharpening my first knife, an old Ruko 3.5" lockback I recently found again after losing track of it over 20 years ago. The blade was so dull and folded over it wouldn't cut a worm. I set my angle to 17.5 degrees, got started, and about 2.5 hours later I had a blade that effortlessly cut paper into fine ribbons and can take the hair right off my arm like a straight razor. The results I got even as a first time noob are truly astonishing.
Just keep on using it. You will find out that parts will wear out in two key points because of poor quality. You will notice a wobble in these areas.
@@sharpthingsinspace9721 Thanks, I'll keep an eye out. I've probably assembled it and disassembled it about 15 times and sharpened many knives and so far so good, no negative issues, just scary sharp blade edges. I'll have to switch over to my spare strop panel soon, but everything's working great.
Why does it take 2 hours?
@@davidsapir3764 I wish I could find the channel that had it longer than you. He made modifications to correct the problems but I never intended to buy it so I didn’t save it.
@@jps3b lol, because it was my first attempt. It takes me a lot less time now.
I love how they are building in more quality with every iteration.
👊
I think it is a little overpriced considering that it still has a lot of plastic. I would ditch the little knife thing
and bring it in a lower price. Are the stones diamond, I wonder.
@@scsc9311 It's not expensive at all btw
@@gro967 Yeah it is. That price is pretty close to TSProf level. With plastic there is deflection. I would pay maybe 200 bucks for that if they got rid of the little knife attachment.
I’m a midget with fat fingers. I have arthritis terribly. I have lots of knives. I like the magnet strength of the magnets that holds things together on different parts so much that I found that I am enjoying the ‘magna-therapy on my fat fingers after I tore it all apart. I do feel much better, thank you
Worksharp got people in the door with the regular precision adjust, and now they are giving people an option to step up to. Much better than starting expensive in my opinion.
Didn't they first claim the electric one was king. Then the Ken onion. Then worksharp . Then you need the upgrade kit. Now you need the pro.
I started out with the precision adjust, very quickly found it was excellent for small pocket knives. It, however, is very lacking for bigger blades, something it probably shares with this new version. I ended up progressing from the work sharp to a wicked edge system within a couple of months.
@@GertTown All you need is 3 whetstones, a shaping stone, a sharpening stone and a finishing stone, and a functioning brain/arms. That's all you need to take any knife from chipped and damaged to razor sharp and mirror polished. Three stones and extremely basic easy to learn skills. Quicker, easier, cheaper, better results. But. Knife land and knife bros are some boy brained man children.
@@jeffhicks8428 What 3 stones do you use?
@@UkuleleJayBBQ Hey man. It depends on two things. One, your preferences in stones. And 2, the needs you have, meaning the tools you have. The main thing that means is high vanadium carbide steels - yes or no. If no, then any high quality stones, I strongly suggest splash and go, will do. For example Shapton Pro. A 3 stone set is one of each type of stone. The 120 to 320 are the shaping stones. Pick one. The 1k to 2k are the sharpening stones. Pick one. The 5k to 12k are the finishing stones. Pick one. I suggest 220, 2k and 12k. Those grits are only for that particular line of stones. It will be different for different brands. A norton 4k for example is closer to 1k in a Japanese stone. You just need to know which stones are which. Now - If you do have a lot of high vanadium carbide blades, steels like say k390 or basically anything like that. Not very common, but it does exist. Then youre going to need either silicon carbide stones or diamond. I'm a fan of the 240 and 1k Sigma Select 2 stones, which use green silicon carbide and cut everything up to maxamet perfectly and don;t break the bank. The issue is the polishing stone. Youre gonna need diamond for that. Something like a Venev will do the trick. Or you could get the whole set with diamond stones but thats more expensive obviously.
Looks to be a great improvement on the original. Well made, very stable and able to cope with a wide spectrum of knife sizes. To people that say the stones wear out quickly, my "Top Tip" is to clean them after each use with a Staedtler pencil eraser. It removes all the metal particles embedded in them and they come up like new again. I've used mine a lot and never had to replace a "worn out" stone.
I clean mine with blu tac,does the job👍
Its like going from a Lansky to a KME. I like the direction that WorkSharp is heading. I really hope we can get some lower grit stones. 220 is going to hold back the ability to reprofile or repair edges on the “super steels”. Great video as always Zak
I thought the same thing until I got this system and began using it. The 220 grit diamond stone is extremely aggressive. Even the 320 grit is very aggressive. I have found that I rarely ever use the 220 or even the 320. The 220 will effectively re-profile a heavily damaged blade. For a very dull and well used blade, I'll start with the 400 grit stone and work my way up thru the leather strop (400, 600, 800, ceramic hone and the leather strop). Most standard resharpening jobs only require 600 grit and up (that's 600, 800, ceramic hone and the leather strop). Lower grits may be necessary for some hardened tool steels, but i think they would rarely be used. These diamond stones are very aggressive. I just wonder how long they will last.
Finally Work Sharp! I went to a gun show years ago and picked up a Benchmade Presidio, and walked by an demonstrator for what was then the Work Sharp belt sharpener, their first one, and the guy wanted to show how it worked, and I too wanted to see how it worked and when he gave me my knife back, it now had a re curved blade! Not impressed! Not to mention the SPARKS flying off my knife blade! WTF? But finally, this looks like something I would be into!
That belt sharpener destroyed knives like crazy.
Having sharpened enough blades on my precision adjust, I can see that they have really addressed any shortfalls of the original at a decent price. Thanks for showing it off for us Zac.
"decent price "🤣
Are these worth it?
I’ve always been challenged when it comes to sharpening, so much so that I pretty much buy a new knife when mine got dull. I looked at the wicked edge but that’s crazy expensive. I got the precision adjust and it worked well for me, but was quite limited on the size of the knife I could sharpen. So I gave it to a buddy when I got the “pro” . After using it on many inexpensive knives I finally went after my expensive chef knife and my ZT with great results. So to me it’s worth it. If you can sharpen free hand it may not be to you.
I have given Work Sharp a lot of flack on the previous design. But it is sooo refreshing to see the Work Sharp listens to their consumers and did a MASSIVE improvement. Very impressed! Last but but very far from least having Zac introduce this to us. Well done!
At only + 5 times of the cost
The problem that isn't really solved (and inherent to this style sharpener) is the angle changing over the sweep - especially noticeable on a drop point in the 3-4+" range. You'll end up with a higher grind toward the tip vs at the heel. You can try to 'split the difference' by repositioning but the problem is still there.
Yeah,realy like my worksharp pa but tips are a pain to do.
Edge pro has never had issues there. You just rotate the knife as you sharpen.
Exactly... someone skipped their basic geometry class at school
The distance blade/grindi g rod pivot is far 4:07 too short. There are some sharpening Tools on the Marketing, with a very long arc radius, however all in the upmarket price range
Any system like this is going to have a bit of sweep angle variance. Most of the time if you sharpen by hand you will see variance in angle as well, as most people just don’t hold the knife perfectly as they progress. A bit of angle change toward the tip will not hurt the blade, and for that matter it will not be enough of a difference to make a difference for most people carrying a knife!!
One thing they're still doing wrong is proprietary stones. Otherwise a very nice system that I'll probably end up getting
You are exactly right! I had the same thought watching the video!
@@Joe-lk6oc you can get very affordable stone conversion kits, allowing you to use aftermarket stones
@@nato1405 where can you get them ?
@@kenroman777Etsy I believe
best review ever, i wish we had more content creators like you in TH-cam, Thank you for your work!...subscribed!
It's awesome to see Work Sharp working hard at keeping up with the systems from outside of the US and making a really good US made sharpener available.
I'm also glad to see they have incorporated the idea of my Leading Edge magnetic platform and stabilizer that I designed for the regular Precision adjust into this upgraded system.
Well done Work Sharp!
US made ?????? Oh really
Got mine; I love it!!
Are these worth it
I have a KME and the TSPROF was the big brother upgrade. Now this thing is like the baby of all the current sharpeners and probably at a cheaper price lol
I never own a knife sharpener before & after seeing this video, I fell in love with this tool. My new Ka-Bar Becker BK2 Campanion BK2 would love a precise sharpening (like a haircut!) after a trashing of dead wood in the rainforest.
This is an amazing improvement over an already excellent design! Props to Worksharp for listening to consumers and making these huge improvements!
Saw your review of the Elite model. Then I saw this review and convinced myself that I must have it. Ordered (on sale). Thanks for the intro Zac.
Lovely video. However @12:15 you are saying that the flex is in the knife itself. That knife is like 5 or 6 mm thick, you will not see that flex for sure. When looking at this, it seems to me that the rubber in the clamp causes the knife to move.
I need this, i love the last model
Great to see worksharp improving on their systems. I have the ken onion with blade grinding attachment which is great for tools , cheaper blades and quick re profiling. For my nicer knives I have the wicked edge.
It's better than older one but TS Prof Kadet is still the best
Looks good and I'm going to pick it up. I still have my reservations on the small sharpening table though. It uses the same sharpening style that the Edge Pro Apex uses, but still has the same drawbacks. Because it's not clamped, it's up to the user to prevent the knife from moving which can be challenging, you can't feel for a burr when it's in place, and depending on the spine and belly of the blade, flipping it over might not get you symmetry so you'd have to constantly change that adjusting nut on each flip.
Happy to give it a shot for sure, but unless it's mind blowing, I'll most likely stick with sharpening small blades on the Ken Onion w/ Blade Grinding Attachment.
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
Darn you Zac. I just bought the other one about a month ago and got scary good edges using it. Going to have to upgrade!
06:45 - the only small criticism I have of this is that your angle reading on the actual sharpener and the reading on the digital indicator are 2 complete different readings which shows that the readings on the actual device cant be too reliable because depending on the size of the knife that reading becomes more inaccurate, difficult to fix, I'd probably rely more on the digital indicator.
It can never be accurate for every knife due to differences in width between knives. The digital indicator ensures that your bevel is the same every time. So it shouldn't be a criticism at all, in my opinion.
Been doing research and sharpener watched video on the smaller one and was concerned about big knives was looking for do all and this sold me thank a lot lol purchased after watching
I never sharpen a knife, yet I'm in love with this system... a ton of innovative ideas!!
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
Honestly really good value for what it is. I'm just starting out my freehand journey with their Guided Sharpening System, but if I-a regular, amateur, knife enjoyer-were to get a fixed-style system, I think I'd go for this over a KME or TS Prof if for no other reason than the sheer value 👍🏼👍🏼
Only thing with the TS Prof is they have an arm for convex grinds.
Do you know the price? I'd say it is good value only if it's under 200 bucks. After that the systems you can get for 300 are way better
NVM, missed it but it's 300 apparently. I'd go for a Hapstone R2 at 250 or 280 instead (which I'm going to do in not so long)
Where are you finding an R2 for that price? Even without stones I don't see them for under $330.
@@ramonade_knives MSRP is usually higher than the sale price
I'm glad I waited this month. Thank you Zac!
At 300 usd im going to have to see it compare to other systems in that range before I decide.
This is a game changer
I hate that word but it actually applies here😁
That tilting base is great. That was the biggest peeve of mine on the pa that the vise was flimsy and you had to take the vise clamp support out to flip it everytime. I would hope someone makes an aftermarket stone holder for it. I will definitely sell my pa to get this one.
It’s really well thought out!
They have some on gritomatic, premium 4' stone holders for your system, I believe.
You do know the original PA clamp flips with the button behind it right? But yeah for bigger knives you do have to pull out and flip
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042 Now, when you say, "only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole length of the blade this kind of system will work". That means the sweep's radius much not change from a level plain?
This and other pivot held sharpeners can't conform to a radius that tapers. Like a hunting knife, where the sweep may lose thickness in the blade along the sweep - it has a taper along the radius of the sweep?
300? I suggest going with a TSprof Kadet Nero with diamond stone set at $409. All billet 7075 T6 that will last forever. Just my 2c
Love you Zac. I make custom knives and always strive for an ultimate and precise edge because it’s fun. This system looks great. I would just sharpen the small knives freehand, but I can see how a lot of people might not fell cool with that. My only gripe about this sharpener is the magnets. I can’t stand it when my blades are magnetized and avoid it every step of the way. I want those particles to fall off my edge and my stones, not get in the way. Maybe I’m sensitive to it because there’s a ton of small particles in my shop that latch onto anything magnetic. I just don’t like the idea of a custom $600 kitchen knife leaving steel particles in food that it picked up because it’s magnetized.
You can buy a demagnatizer at any local hardware store
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
I will guaranteed buy this sharpener. It literally resolves every issue I have with current sharpeners on the market.
I have been using the precision adjust for a while and this new addition just looks incredible
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
I like the upgrades a lot. I do wish they had a blank guide you can use 4" stones but I'm sure Gritomatic is already looking to design the piece. Will definitely upgrade from my base model PA.
Hopefully they will come out with some blanks for lapping film
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
This is true, and I had concerns initially with these types of systems. You can adjust for this as you approach curves, but I have come to the conclusion that a degree or two on a 10 inch chef’s knife is not going to make a huge difference. Especially true if both sides are sharpened to the same angle. Don’t get caught up in all of the mathematics, unless you want to do it freehand on a stone.
Amazing system that is available for the price that most knife people spend on a quality knife. As a tsprof user the only thing I see that it lacks is the ability to use any stone available in that size range. But I'm sure there will be aftermarket parts to use any stones in the future. If I was new to sharpening and needed a system I'd definitely buy this.
I had the original and wasn't very impressed. I still believe it was a great entry-level fixed system for the price. I moved up to the KME recently. At the new systems price point, you start competing with some very good systems. I'm glad to see work sharp listening to the community's wants.
Exactly, I used one, worried about metal filings then left out in garden
thank you for the video, I'm a pro-Chef and a EDC knife carrier. I use my own Knives for everything and my EDC breaks down boxes to scraping the gunk of the floor. I use the older Work Sharp Sharpener in my every day life. I sharpen my knives once every week depending on use. Where is the caring case? for such a wonderful tool to sharpen my knives I would love a hard case to put it away when not in use off my work counter. Also kind of disappointed as I went to the sight and the "Professional Precision Adjust" was sold out on the sight. Also I love the fact you don't need oil or water to use the sharpener
As an engineer, owning a KME, wanting a TSprof, and so many other things, this thing has me fucking baffled. I have never been this impressed with a full, all in one kit right out the box in my life. IM getting one and oh my god im excited.
It’s a very complete kit and I love it as a hobbyist for that reason!
Hi Torling, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042 it's actually usually useful becuase the belly is where I want my shallower edge. Brother I know all the science behind angle, grit, microns, different scratch patterns, you name it. A little thing like slight, CONSISTENT variation is not a problem. If you make sure you put the knife back in the same, same angle and sharpie it you can do just fine.
Also, make sure to become more collected with your comments if you wanna make point, for future reference
Lastly I can freehand a hair whittler no problem so I don't think any of this matters, if a knife can cut well what more does a person really need.
Get TS Prof Kadet - It's a Rolls Royce in world of sharpeners
Get the TSprof K03. As a fellow engineer and sharpening nerd, I wish I bought mine years ago. There really is no competition or comparison, especially with the digital cube. It's a precision piece of machined art that happens to be a phenomenally accurate and flexible sharpening system.
When you get into sharpening larger blades isn't the angle at the belly going to be more obtuse than the angle at the tip?
Or is that considered too small of a difference to matter?
Thanks for the review, very well done. Sharpening systems are about two things; keeping the same angle, and the quality of the stones you use. Obviously this system locks in the blade so you keep the same angle, but please comment on the quality of the stones. We all know not all diamond plates are created equal, and you can spend hundreds of dollars on wet stones. How does the quality of the diamond plates compare to say a Trend? Would there be any way to adapt this to handle a PSA 3M film? Thanks again for the great review. Looking forward to an actual sharpening session.
I love what you can do with that monster, I have started a small collection of knives and I'm so tempted...
Looks very nice. It would have been interesting to use the digital gauge see how the angle changes from center to tip on the big knife. I don’t believe any sharpener addresses keeping a stable angle perpendicular to the edge.
This is a fundamental flaw of this style in my understanding. I have a KME, but yeah, that is not ideal. Pull through belt-sander styles do better I would assume, but come with their own drawbacks.
@@laurelrunlaurelrun For the price and purported sophistication of this sharpener, I would expect it to somehow deal with that very obvious shortcoming in this style of sharpener. I assume Work Sharp is well aware of this issue. I have the original Work Sharp ½” belt sharpener which can get an edge wicked sharp with the 6000 grit belt if I’m careful enough, but admittedly I’ve messed up a few blade tips trying to guide the blade tip manually across the slack belt with only one area of support.
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042 Exactly.
@@HimitsuYama 😠
I just ordered mine. I live in Thailand and finding one that wasn't over-priced was a real challenge.
Do you think it could use some elevation to allow the sharpening arm more clearance?
These companies need to stop putting magnets on EVERYTHING!!! Especially on products that grinds on ferrous metals. As a welder, I'll tell you everything I have with magnetic attachments is covered in grinding dust.
I LOVE magnets but I agree, I work in laser cutting and every magnet in the shop is covered in a fuzzy layer of fine dust. Even without magnets it gets in your phone, watch, knife...
I can not tell you how much I appreciate the effort and ingenuity you fellas put into your work. Unfortunately, my wife would killmeif I boughtone of these new Precision Adjust units. Maybe in a ouple of years. However, I will continue to bragg up your products to my friends. Your ervice is also second to none.
The Worksharp abrasives just leave too much to be desired. They should’ve just made a universal stone holder. The KME is still a way better buy IMO :)
I returned the old system because I didn’t like the flex, definitely going to pick this one up I think they nailed it!
As much as i like the changes in the new version, $300 is territory of much more precise and solid systems. I feel like Worksharp took a big bite of inflation on this one. The frame is cast, which is cheap to produce and the digital angle guide is not precise since its on a round rod and also very cheap, you can get a more precise one for under $10. MSRP should have been $200, then they would be competitive.
I'll stick to my elite system, with the $7 dollar clamp support. I don't have any teenie tiny blades like that boker and can sharpen my SAK blades with current system. I wouldn't even attempt to sharpen my El Chete on this new system, simply due to weight, not blade length. If you are a supporter of Worksharp gear and have the extra $ to spend on this new system, go for it, its a sweet system. I don't think this new system is bad, just feel its too expensive for what you get. For the money, i'd personally spend elsewhere.
*As a side note - I have not used this new system and therefore can't offer advice based on actual usage of it. YMMV and your budget isn't mine. 😁
What can you get for $300 that's better than this? When those Russian sharpeners first came out they were in the $300 range but they went up to nearly $500 almost immediately. Not doubting you, genuinely curious.
@Twat Munro Off top of my head, Ruixin is under $200 and KME is $200, unless you get deluxe and that's $320. There are more and its easy to find with Google search.
This vid made my day!
WHY does nobody address the issue with angle when it comes to the center position versus the outside positions. Sure I can set maybe 2 to 3 inches of surface to the perfect angle in the center area of the work sharp precision adjust. However, the second I put a knife on there that’s anything longer than 5-6 inches and I reach out to sharpen, the tip, or reach out to sharpen the base section. The angle quickly adjusts 3 to 4° and is no longer anywhere near that specific 17° angle that I want to hone in on. That is a massive oversight with these sharpeners. And why does nobody bring it up at all. Am I missing something?
That is exactly what im thinking, even on a medium knife the difference in the bevel is noticeably different, that's why the edge pro is superior to this, especially for large blades.
For this kind of sharpener, you will only be able to perfectly sharpen a disc shape knife
I think you have to remember that the sliding sharpening platens also rotate on the shaft which allow it to adjust as it moves side to side
Yes!!
The perfect angle is less important than a consistent angle
Every adaptation they listen and innovate. Great video again good sir! Bata bing bata boom 🤯
12:00 the flex isn’t coming from the knife it’s coming from the rubber jaws
Just when you thought that Work Sharp had thought of everything with their original, they scanned through thousands of comments and reviews and found little adjustments to make it even better. Man I wish more brands would do that for their products. Costs a premium but it’s literally EVERYTHING you could ask for.
It's more of a "made in the USA" kind of thing... but even then, that's not saying all USA based companies do such!!
heyhey, you took my advice .
love it
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Nice upgrades but wouldn’t call it Pro for these reasons :
The flex is in the rubber clamp not the knife.
Perhaps the amount of surface area clamping the knife or the thickness/hardness of the rubber caused the flex.
How do you ensure the digital angle guide is sitting 180 flat on a rounded rod ? You could see the angle change when you were rotating it @ 6:45.
Also why are the printed angles on the unit so far off from what the angle gauge indicates?
Wish it allowed third party stone options. Will likely have to wait for another company to create adapters again.
I got the worksharp field sharpener in my tool box, I am not good at sharpening but it does the job. Looking forward to this though, hope my girl doesn't mind it being put in the kitchen!
I love your channel and look forward to every new video, but this looks more like a payed promo than a review. In my eyes you come across more as a sales rep for Work Sharp than an independent reviewer.
Still looking forward to the next video though.👍
This is exactly what this video was. It wasn't a review. We didn't see an actual knife sharpened. It was straight up a sales pitch. Looking forward to other more objective reviewers getting there hands on it.
Pete from Ada & Cedric!
@@Rhubarb2 yeah it's been heading in that direction for a while now. I miss the videos like the one from Sturgis! That one had a good wibe to it!👍
Will be interested to see Jerad Neeves take on it
I have the original precision adjust and the guided sharpening system. This is a combination of the best parts of those.
I've used (and modded) my PA quite a bit and this looks to incorporate every single thing I would hope for in a more premium/expensive revision.
Looks like a fairly impressive product.
Edit: I really wish they'd give it more ability to go under 15 dps as opposed to over 25. I'm able to get 11 on my PA though, so it's not super necessary. Still, I can't imagine ever using a guided sharpener to put on a >25 degree edge.
Advertised to sharpen down to 15... but like the original model you'll find it can sharpen many knives at lower angles.
Hi CNYKnifeNut
CNYKnifeNut
, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
I sharpen free hand but your review was so good I want to try one of these.
One drawback...You have to use the proprietary stones. Sad day...
To be fair worksharp is a business not a charity so why would they NOT restrict it to their own stones ? Your hardly going to drop millions on developing a new system and then allow the customer to use other manufacturers parts on it are you ?
@@druid799
Many other sharpening systems can use other stones.
question do they have extra sharpening stones that you could buy separately or no?
If I’m gonna spend $300 on a knife sharpener it’s gonna be a edge pro and not a work sharp.
Cmon lol, actual price is lower, and what will you get, an apex 4 kit?
Get real, you are just stubbornly unable to accept that this one kicks its butt
I own both, I'm gonna be honest, this one is better solely for the fact it has a clamp instead of a stupid ass ramp that scratches your high end blades and fatigues your hand easily on longer sessions
You misspelled wicked edge
@@chadcharbonneau2154 thank you professor ❗️
its not often Im this impressed
Too expensive . I will stick with my KME
I was just thinking need to get a nice sharpener to touch up my knives and a buddy of mine knives too along with the kitchen knives at the house and then of course Zac comes out with a video of one.
They need to give you a better way to rack the tightener more cause not forcefull hard hand tight was never enough without like using extra leverage to tighten it more
Thanks, that new one looks boss
Wicked Edge & K.M.E, *_count your days._*
Wow they are proud of it!
Merci beaucoup!🇫🇷
Thanks You!
I’ve been hand sharpening for over 50 years, but finally wanted to pull the pin on a guided sharpener. I’ve been doing a lot of comparison shopping, and had finally decided I was probably going to go with the KME (I don’t have the bread for the Russian TS Prof K03 I was very impressed with.)
But now I’m not so sure. It looks like they’ve thought of everything with this unit.
My sole concern is the digital angle gauge, as anything electronic is bound to fail eventually, but I can do without it if that happens, and for that matter have a small table saw angle gauge that’s about the same size.
All in all very impressed with how they’ve thought it through. If I do get it (and you reloaders know what I’m talking about) my first call will be to Inline Fab to get a custom top plate made for this base. Lock it into the quick change base plate on my bench and it will be a rock solid mount.
Thanks for the first look! 👍
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042 Sorry, I do disagree with you. It’s still a fixed angle whether the edge bears against the first quarter or the last fifth of the fixed angle stone, and whether the edge is straight or even has a radical recurve.
The same holds true if using a SharpMaker or a Washita stone or a Diamond hone or a small flat bastard file to reprofile the edge.
There’s nothing about this system that’s going to damage an edge, even if you set the angle at an angle totally different from the factory one, you will just reset the edge profile, which I’ve done many times by hand.
I think your basic premise is flawed and subsequent bias against this system is incorrect, but thanks for your opinion.
@@E.L.RipleyAtNostromo i dont know if you do it wrong in this 50 years or you just want to do it like that.
I am not a seller or against this system because i have something to win or loose but i will like to see a system that really does an angle for the whole edge the same not like this.
Itis simple matematics when you keep the same point and change the distance , the angle changes, it is simple, even if you dont want to admit.
And this is the way to be better in anything trying to understand and accepting the flaws, otherwise we will evolve much slower because of stubbernness.
Yes, something I can sharpen my Espada XL with. Without having to take the blade off.
I really love the original precision adjust sharpener. I would like to see an upgraded base to add to that original system
With the OG precision adjust, I can get an edge to whittle a hair. But I can't wait to make that process way more enjoyable. Ceep up the great work, I love what you do
It’s all about burr removal 😅
Pretty much yeah
I have the wirk sharp with the small belts. You pull the knife thru. It works ptetty good.
Very cool! Time to start saving up!
What angle to use to et a razor hair spliting edge!
On the small knife holder how do you do the other side of the knife? You didn't show that.
Flip the knife over and let the magnets grab it.
Half the time I end up sharpening the clamp hahaha it gets in the way alot
Wow. Just wow.
🔥🔥
I'm so glad I hadn't bought the work sharp standard model yet ...I'll definitely get this pro model now...great video bud 🔥🔥🔥
Why at 7:12 the main arm on the left indicates 23° analog angle and the digital display 25,25°? Is there a reason they can not set more precise in the factory? What is the point to giving an analog indicator that is off with about 2°?
Sorry if this question is stupid, I just acquired my first knife and I am just starting to learn about sharpening (systems).
Peace
Not a stupid question at all but a couple things you need to realize. Number one, the numbers on the device are for reference only. Plus, there’s no knife in the clamp.
Number two, the size of the knife blade will also come into play. In other words, a bigger blade like a chef knife will have a different degree as opposed to a smaller knife like a Swiss Army knife if the device were set to 23°.
You’re always measuring the degree at the knife’s edge. That’s why you use the digital angle cube.
@@devin2355 thanks for your insights!
Doesn’t knob that sets the angle lock? I felt like on the old one it wasn’t 100% set. Also I had issues tightening the clamp to where knife could not move when
I just picked one up at the Atlanta Blade Show. What im shocked by still is that no one has a true solution for double-edge, dagger blades. This sharpener is actually easily modded to accept dagger blades. Great sharpener!
What about the maximum thickness that the clamp can accommodate. I have knives 6- 7 mm thick. What about them?
The mouth opens up super wide. I’ll get some measurements and put out some answers👊
Do they plan on having curved rods for sharpening convex edges?
Thanks for sharing this video, wish I had waited till this came out. Not that the original position adjust his bad, but this looks pretty good!
Nice upgrade, I have the original, but am willing to spend the extra money for these upgrades. I’ll sell the original, or bless one of my friends with it. Thanks for the video and info.
Really happy to see this. Ive had my eyes on the Wicked Edge for years but could never justify the price, this looks like it could be great for a much more reasonable price
Looks way better but for 300 plus I'll stick to my og worksharp👍
Great review! I just bought one. Hopefully it's the last sharpener I have to buy.
Hi. Forgive my ignorance but can someone explain how the 800 grit diamond abrasive is being called "fine"? I have seem so many knife sharpening videos and blogs saying 1000 grit is considered the coarse abrasive and "fine" is like 3000 or higher. I'm confused. What am I missing?
Nice! I have the original and liked it a lot, but like everyone else I had the same concerns; nice to see that this new version addressed the shortcomings of the original.
Just got my upgrade kit first of April, and bought some aftermarket 3D printed stuff off of Etsy (plus a digital angle finder). Spent probably around $150 bucks to upgrade my Precision Adjust. Then Worksharp is bringing this out...
Guess I better start saving up...