I sometimes mention to the customers at our ACE store (we sell tons of TORO machines...) to use clear vinyl tubing of a preferred length. Put one end on a funnel...the other in your oil-pan. Remove pipe-cap while holding funnel just below! Also: * Make sure oil is WARM. Run engine for a few minutes. * If drain-pipe is on a side, run opposite wheel up on a 2x4/similar item. * I sometimes put 2 tbsp of Seafoam in the oil when running engine for 15 minutes before the oil-change. * My engine gas ALWAYS has a steady mix of Seafoam. In my 1gal can, I put a 1/4 cup of SF. * Gasoline used is ALWAYS Ethanol-free, Top-Tier Premium. * My blower is 23 yrs-old now, & running STRONG! 8hp Tecumseh Snow-King. :-)
A number of years ago I acquired a vacuum oil extractor. It's really simplified oil changes on all my vehicles, power, and sports equipment. Even makes power steering fluid refreshes effortless.
Red loctite holds well because it will not come off unless you use a torch to heat it. I get so many mowers and blowers with oil and grass caked up all over because that tube came loose and leaks. A simple repair but so many lazy people unwilling to do a simple easy repair. Good Video! Thanks.
Thank you! I bought a new snowblower last winter and I need to change the oil and this is exactly what was happening! It’s so annoying! Now I k ow how to fix it! Thanks a lot Dony!
Donny I have a generator “PowerMate “. There is a line coming from the top of the gas tank down to a box about the size of a brick bat mane a little smaller. When stored gas runs out of an outlet in the opposite end of this box. Have you ever encountered this. Can you tell me the function of this box. Thanks for any help you can give me on this. McRoy Gardner Lenior NC
I have a 26 year old Ariens with a Tecumseh engine much like the one in the video. I put Loctite on the drain tube after about the 2nd year I bought it. Still holding strong. No fancy flex lines or ball valve as suggested by other commenters. Keep it simple. Only work the blower has needed was regular maintenance. I always use plain gas with ethanol and just add StaBil to my gas can.
Very good tip Don. Usually I change my own oil on my Ariens Compact snowblower and always use a vice grip to hold pipe while unscrewing end cap, but I had my Ariens dealership replace both belts on my eight year old Ariens compact two years ago and I had them change oil as long as they had it, which I regret. Last October when I usually change oil, I could not get end cap off even with the pipe wrench holding pipe because dealership tightened too much. Deep grooves were made by me on pipe by pipe wrench trying to get end cap off. I ended up unscrewing entire pipe off engine and I placed pipe in a table vice in order to get end cap off. Because I almost crushed pipe with vice grip wrench I purchased a new pipe and end cap. Next October I will use your tip on oil pipe. Needless to say I was swearing like crazy trying to get end cap off. If this ever happens again by a dealership of over tightening, do you think heating end cap would help to remove end cap? I think you know this, but new Ariens snowblowers have a machined edge on pipe now that can hold in place by a open end wrench while unscrewing end cap with a second wrench. Thanks, Don from Milwaukee
@@bobkalinoski8447 ,Bob, I came close to calling them, but I made up my mind never to go back to them again for purchase or service. At the same time I had them change belts and oil, they said I needed a scraper bar at bottom of snowblower for an additional $40.00. Many months before that, I bought a scraper bar for $22.00 from same place. I blew up when they told me that with a $18.00 markup for same item and I told them I would never return, plus gave them a bad review on GOOGLE. I have since switched to another dealership, plus Amazon and Home Depot sell Ariens parts. Thanks for the comment.
@@donyboy73 Could you tell me what camera you are using? Is it a phone? What is the make and model of the camera or phone? It really is good, even the depth of field is good (deep).
I just picked up a 1988 MTD snowblower (Model 318-586-352/1287B) with a Tecumseh engine (HMSK80). The manual says the oil drain plug is under the muffler side. There is also a brass tube sticking out under the gas tank on the other side of the engine that looks a lot like what I see as the oil drain tube in a lot of videos. The drain plug identified in the manual drains oil right onto the body of the snowblower and makes a mess. Am I missing something here? Is there a better way to be draining the oil? I'm new to small engines and am trying to learn. I love your videos!
Hi, I just picked up a used 22" yardmachine snowblower, it has a plastic impeller that seems to be binding or has some extra friction slowing its rotation and is squealing at times. Any suggestion on what might be going on before I start to take it apart? Got a storm coming and it will be my first use with the blower, dont want to burn it up. Thanks.
Sometimes there is no tube at all on these engines. Could you please record a video on how to install a tube. Might seem simple but folks like me don’t know exactly what to buy and want to get it right. Also, how to extend the tube and add a right angle so the oil is easier to catch. Thank you so much for these videos, I’m always learning from you 👍
It's normally just pipe thread. Bring the plug with you to the hardware store and find a pipe nipple and cap with the same threads, and there you have it!
Another good practical tip. Thx Dony. By the way, I spotted that new jug of Motomaster oil from Canadian Tire. Do you hate the new black jugs as much as I do? Almost impossible to see how much is left in the jug. And terrible if you are putting used oil back in one, to recycle. So easy to over fill. Curse you, CTC!
What I did was remove cap, thread on 90°, add another 3” tube threaded into the 90° and replaced cap. Now I don’t worry ever about loose at engine and I also have an extension on the drain so I can get it to drain into a pan instead of everywhere else.
I love your videos. Very helpful. I have a 30" DR snowblower. I need oil drain extender tube, like the one on the machine in this video. Do you know where I could buy one? I believe it is a 12mm drain plug. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you for what you do.
Can you help with a cub cadet Ltx-1046 oil change, tried putting on a quick connect adapter but it wont fit in the drain hole because of the engine flares.
Good video. When would you change a snowblower oil? Manual says every year but seems overkill to me. Especially when the oil is still clear and looks fine.
@@appleztooranges It doesn't matter if it looks clear, the acid's start the minute you start running the engine. Plus it's only 3-4 bucks to change it yourself. Do the change at the end of the season.
I have a Z248 Husqvarna. I need to replace the belt but the new belt just will not go on. I can get it around all pulleys except the last one and it only fits to about the center of that pully. It just won't go anyfurther. Any suggestions? Wayne
mumbles552 I checked out the website. It says that LOCTITE 268 quickstix can handle minor oil contamination. While I hate cleaning threaded holes, I think it would still be worth it. Although, maybe an argument could be made that in this example, if the thread locker didn’t hold, it wouldn’t be the end of the world.
@@FrAdamVoisin Exactly! It only takes a moment to tilt the machine over and clean and dry the threads using a Q tip and brake cleaner or whatever. Clean and dry threads = peace of mind and a good sleep that night!
@Darrin I think that there would be more of a demand for good outdoor power equipment mechanics than for folks with degrees in feminist studies. The amount of student loan debt, that some will take on, can be staggering. Not many people can actually work with their hands anymore. Playing video games & texting do not count! :>P
Why when I start the engine I have an oil leak after doing this? May be I twisted off the pipe? 🤔.. I have an Ariens St724 (932047) and I don't find this part in manual 🙄
Last time I had this problem I ended up twisting off the end of the pipe before the cap rotated it was so seized on. Of course the pipe screwed out of the engine easily. Of course... New pipe and cap and I was on my way. Just don't tighten it so much and this isn't an issue.
The most annoying things of oil changes on small engines is where the drain plug is, how short it is, or even if it has a drain plug! My snow thrower could have used a longer tube then it would have dripped out without making a mess. Lawn mower doesn't even have a plug, you have to tip it upside down and dump the old oil the same way it goes in. I know it's a money saving thing to these companies, and pennies go a long way, but damn!
I wonder how much it would add to the cost if this were done at the factory. Blue or Red, 1000 engines a year, would it even add $1USD? But doing so would save so many folks issues down the road. But if the factory did this we wouldn't have this video, would we? Thank you for sharing it.
will you please tell me how that locktite is supposed to hold with all that oil on the female threads on the engine.........i don't get it............i'm sure you know a lot more than me but it does make me wonder about some of your methods............at least tilt the engine back a little ,,,,,,and clean the threads
@@paulreid7370 Loctite makes a specific "oil tolerant" threadlocker. So they must know something. Most types of Loctite will likely be OK as you say, but you could go the extra mile with "oil tolerant."
@@donyboy73 ok, so i learned something but that's not saying i would trust it till i see it with my own eyes,,,,,,,,,,and in your video you could have saved me the question by pointing this out when you used it on the oiled threads.................thanks......
Just made a mess changing the oil in the church's snowblower, I didnt have any large pliers or vise grips so had to remove tube. I had oil everywhere as it ran down back of frame.
I would think the red Loctite is an overkill for this application since it's too powerful that if the drain nipple needed to be replaced, heat would be required to remove. Perhaps a medium strength Loctite such as the blue would be better suited. This is just a thought. I appreciate your videos donyboy 73.
@@michaelfield9467 I checked with Loctite and with Red and Blue Temp range of -65 to 300 degrees F. applies to both. Except for Red Hi-temp/hi-strength formula which is Temp range -65 to 450.
That certainly solves the problem but wouldn't the use of red loctite make the tube nearly impossible to ever remove without damaging the threads on the engine? I elected to just use blue loctite on mine. It also solves the issue but allows the tube to be removed if needed.
@@donyboy73 Agree. But it usually requires heat. I guess you could get in their with a torch and heat the area. Granted, the tube should never need to be removed. My luck is someone would cross-thread the cap after fixing the loose tube, :-)
I suppose if you stand a large nut to the left of the pipe and put two spot welds between the nut and pipe it would never undo ever again lol. For your own equipment only of cause :-D
Valid concern but I haven’t had that happen in 25+ years. In some applications, after the valve I add a very short nipple with an o-ringed cap that just goes on finger tight just for safety’s sake.
You can get the brass nipple ( that the tube coming out from the engine block) from a hardware store in the plumbing section. I added used a braided stainless flex tube after the valve and used it for several years. It was handy but the wires in the braiding started to break and you got little wire ends sticking up all along the flex hose. The main convenience was from the nipple and the valve so the flex was over kill. You can wire wrap the valve lever so that it won't turn accidentally.
Another thought - you could also remove the handle from the valve. In most cases this would mean any adjustable wrench would open it with a 1/4 turn - still easier than fighting the stock configuration and no chance of opening it by accident.
Or......put a 90 at the end of the nipple, then plug the 90, no more nipple twisting(unless she’s into it) and the oil drains straight down instead of out if it’s warm like how I like to drain any of my machines, hot oil flows better, leaving less old in the engine. Your welcome
I sometimes mention to the customers at our ACE store (we sell tons of TORO machines...) to use clear vinyl tubing of a preferred length. Put one end on a funnel...the other in your oil-pan. Remove pipe-cap while holding funnel just below!
Also:
* Make sure oil is WARM. Run engine for a few minutes.
* If drain-pipe is on a side, run opposite wheel up on a 2x4/similar item.
* I sometimes put 2 tbsp of Seafoam in the oil when running engine for 15 minutes before the oil-change.
* My engine gas ALWAYS has a steady mix of Seafoam. In my 1gal can, I put a 1/4 cup of SF.
* Gasoline used is ALWAYS Ethanol-free, Top-Tier Premium.
* My blower is 23 yrs-old now, & running STRONG! 8hp Tecumseh Snow-King.
:-)
I never thought of using the combination of a funnel AND tubing. Great idea!
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists -- Once a decade, I have a decent idea! It's just too cheap & simple!
i added a ball valve ,and zip tie,easy oil changes,no mess
A number of years ago I acquired a vacuum oil extractor. It's really simplified oil changes on all my vehicles, power, and sports equipment. Even makes power steering fluid refreshes effortless.
Red loctite holds well because it will not come off unless you use a torch to heat it. I get so many mowers and blowers with oil and grass caked up all over because that tube came loose and leaks. A simple repair but so many lazy people unwilling to do a simple easy repair. Good Video! Thanks.
I use a small pipe wrench instead of vise grips. Good tip with the red locktight!!!!👍👍
Thank you! I bought a new snowblower last winter and I need to change the oil and this is exactly what was happening! It’s so annoying! Now I k ow how to fix it! Thanks a lot Dony!
Donny, I did this on my snowblower years ago and it's still in place today!
Great tip!
Donny I have a generator “PowerMate “. There is a line coming from the top of the gas tank down to a box about the size of a brick bat mane a little smaller. When stored gas runs out of an outlet in the opposite end of this box. Have you ever encountered this.
Can you tell me the function of this box.
Thanks for any help you can give me on this.
McRoy Gardner
Lenior NC
Adding Teflon Tape to the drain cap side of the pipe threads can also ease removal of the cap next time you remove it.
I have a 26 year old Ariens with a Tecumseh engine much like the one in the video. I put Loctite on the drain tube after about the 2nd year I bought it. Still holding strong. No fancy flex lines or ball valve as suggested by other commenters. Keep it simple. Only work the blower has needed was regular maintenance. I always use plain gas with ethanol and just add StaBil to my gas can.
Very good tip Don. Usually I change my own oil on my Ariens Compact snowblower and always use a vice grip to hold pipe while unscrewing end cap, but I had my Ariens dealership replace both belts on my eight year old Ariens compact two years ago and I had them change oil as long as they had it, which I regret. Last October when I usually change oil, I could not get end cap off even with the pipe wrench holding pipe because dealership tightened too much. Deep grooves were made by me on pipe by pipe wrench trying to get end cap off. I ended up unscrewing entire pipe off engine and I placed pipe in a table vice in order to get end cap off. Because I almost crushed pipe with vice grip wrench I purchased a new pipe and end cap. Next October I will use your tip on oil pipe. Needless to say I was swearing like crazy trying to get end cap off. If this ever happens again by a dealership of over tightening, do you think heating end cap would help to remove end cap? I think you know this, but new Ariens snowblowers have a machined edge on pipe now that can hold in place by a open end wrench while unscrewing end cap with a second wrench.
Thanks,
Don from Milwaukee
I would have called that dealership up and told him to send a guy over here to take this damn thing off
@@bobkalinoski8447 ,Bob, I came close to calling them, but I made up my mind never to go back to them again for purchase or service. At the same time I had them change belts and oil, they said I needed a scraper bar at bottom of snowblower for an additional $40.00. Many months before that, I bought a scraper bar for $22.00 from same place. I blew up when they told me that with a $18.00 markup for same item and I told them I would never return, plus gave them a bad review on GOOGLE. I have since switched to another dealership, plus Amazon and Home Depot sell Ariens parts. Thanks for the comment.
Hey it's in 4K! And it's good 4K. Nice and sharp. 60 frames per second too. Way to go Donyman!
thanks, just getting used to using 4k
@@donyboy73 Could you tell me what camera you are using? Is it a phone? What is the make and model of the camera or phone? It really is good, even the depth of field is good (deep).
@@BioCosmic--Dust sony AX53 4K
@@donyboy73 That is excellent. The Sony AX53 4K is a real camcorder and it's a very good one. Nice, and thanks for the info!
Never seen the Loctite in the tube before, thanks for the tip Dony
I just picked up a 1988 MTD snowblower (Model 318-586-352/1287B) with a Tecumseh engine (HMSK80). The manual says the oil drain plug is under the muffler side. There is also a brass tube sticking out under the gas tank on the other side of the engine that looks a lot like what I see as the oil drain tube in a lot of videos. The drain plug identified in the manual drains oil right onto the body of the snowblower and makes a mess. Am I missing something here? Is there a better way to be draining the oil? I'm new to small engines and am trying to learn. I love your videos!
Hi, I just picked up a used 22" yardmachine snowblower, it has a plastic impeller that seems to be binding or has some extra friction slowing its rotation and is squealing at times. Any suggestion on what might be going on before I start to take it apart? Got a storm coming and it will be my first use with the blower, dont want to burn it up. Thanks.
Sometimes there is no tube at all on these engines. Could you please record a video on how to install a tube. Might seem simple but folks like me don’t know exactly what to buy and want to get it right. Also, how to extend the tube and add a right angle so the oil is easier to catch. Thank you so much for these videos, I’m always learning from you 👍
here's a video on how to install on lawn tractors, th-cam.com/video/O_gTahB33FA/w-d-xo.html
It's normally just pipe thread. Bring the plug with you to the hardware store and find a pipe nipple and cap with the same threads, and there you have it!
you didn't need to clean and thourghly dry the threads before applying the loctite?
Another good practical tip. Thx Dony. By the way, I spotted that new jug of Motomaster oil from Canadian Tire. Do you hate the new black jugs as much as I do? Almost impossible to see how much is left in the jug. And terrible if you are putting used oil back in one, to recycle. So easy to over fill. Curse you, CTC!
Machines should come from manufacturer with an extension. What a mess. Even on a new Vermeer chopper I recently acquired. Thanks!
Thanks Don-btw that’s chipper...doh!
Good advice buddy thanks
Honda says to replace the washer every-time you do an oil change. Seems excessive. What is your opinion?
What I did was remove cap, thread on 90°, add another 3” tube threaded into the 90° and replaced cap. Now I don’t worry ever about loose at engine and I also have an extension on the drain so I can get it to drain into a pan instead of everywhere else.
Great video. Dony, do you have anything that replaces the drain plug on a honda engine, m10 x 1.25 threads???
Good job Don
Great Tip Donyboy. Hope your wife is doing well, Have a great weekend!!!
Can you use one of those flex hoses you put on the lawn tractor?
yes you could if you can find the right thread size
I never knew about the stick type that will seal on wet threads. Great tip.
Great tip DB ... I've seen this first hand.
I love your videos. Very helpful. I have a 30" DR snowblower. I need oil drain extender tube, like the one on the machine in this video. Do you know where I could buy one? I believe it is a 12mm drain plug. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you for what you do.
Can you help with a cub cadet Ltx-1046 oil change, tried putting on a quick connect adapter but it wont fit in the drain hole because of the engine flares.
Why is it that every kohler oil drain has to be re torqued..every one that iv'e worked on is loose...
Good fix Donyboy..Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Question I bought a used snow blower and the guy drilled the electric start mounting holes bigger? How do I get this fixed?
you might have to try a heli coil
@@donyboy73 thanks for the information
Thanks DB73; Another great fix. Rock On !!!.
Thanks for the tip donny
Good video. When would you change a snowblower oil? Manual says every year but seems overkill to me. Especially when the oil is still clear and looks fine.
The reason they say every year is because used oil turns acidic even within just a few hours of use. So the once a year oil change is good advice.
Robin Hanson I’ve never changed my 1 year old ariens. Still looks clear. Maybe I should change it lol
@@appleztooranges It doesn't matter if it looks clear, the acid's start the minute you start running the engine. Plus it's only 3-4 bucks to change it yourself. Do the change at the end of the season.
Robin Hanson ok I’ll do it in spring. Didn’t use it much last year. Have feeling use it ton this year. Thanks for your response.
My drain tube broke off at the end in the engine. What would be the best way to remove it?
Lovely solution video Donny mate cheers from Australia
can you do the same for lawn tractors, because the nut where the drain plug is comes loose at times ?
yes
I have a Z248 Husqvarna. I need to replace the belt but the new belt just will not go on. I can get it around all pulleys except the last one and it only fits to about the center of that pully. It just won't go anyfurther. Any suggestions?
Wayne
When first doing this is there any worry about the oil still draining out contaminating the Loctite??
doesn't affect it
Also, Henkel Loctite makes Oil Tolerant Threadlocker.
Thanks buddy. Another great a 👍👍👍
Don’t you need to clean the oil out of the female hole for the lotite to set up properly?
Normally but not with this new stick type of Loctite. Their website explains how it is anaerobic and can be applied to oily threads.
mumbles552 I checked out the website. It says that LOCTITE 268 quickstix can handle minor oil contamination. While I hate cleaning threaded holes, I think it would still be worth it. Although, maybe an argument could be made that in this example, if the thread locker didn’t hold, it wouldn’t be the end of the world.
@@FrAdamVoisin Exactly! It only takes a moment to tilt the machine over and clean and dry the threads using a Q tip and brake cleaner or whatever. Clean and dry threads = peace of mind and a good sleep that night!
mumbles552 agreed!
mumbles552
Also thinking to run that oil tube by the wire wheel for about 15-20 seconds per end... just me... Not a fan of dirty reassembly.
Great tip for sure. Gonna have to get some loctite.
How's she goin'? Good tip. Thanks for sharing. Take care!!!
Great tip. Thank you for sharing. 🇨🇦😎
Also, if you put a Black Malleable Iron 90-Degree FPT x MPT Street Elbow where the cap goes and the cap on the elbow would work.
Thank you
Easier to reinstall just using the cap.
how about an extension ,so oil wont drip onto wheel.?
Donny you should be teaching shop at a trade school!
Unfortunately Carl they stopped teaching small engine mechanics in vocational schools about the time Don was in diapers ☹️
37yearsofanything isenough understood, because I’m a high school AP Chemistry teacher, but there’s a need for trade schools.
Don't know if that would pay much.
@Darrin I think that there would be more of a demand for good outdoor power equipment mechanics than for folks with degrees in feminist studies. The amount of student loan debt, that some will take on, can be staggering. Not many people can actually work with their hands anymore. Playing video games & texting do not count! :>P
@@Urbicide -- Yeah....cell-phones, texting & vids don't set you up for much REAL-LIFE knowledge!!!!
Looks like those tires have seen better days.
Why when I start the engine I have an oil leak after doing this? May be I twisted off the pipe? 🤔.. I have an Ariens St724 (932047) and I don't find this part in manual 🙄
Great video Don! Cheers pal
Last time I had this problem I ended up twisting off the end of the pipe before the cap rotated it was so seized on. Of course the pipe screwed out of the engine easily. Of course... New pipe and cap and I was on my way. Just don't tighten it so much and this isn't an issue.
Thanks for sharing,👍👍👍
I broke the tube in the engine and now I have a slow leak. Any advice?
Great tip!
The most annoying things of oil changes on small engines is where the drain plug is, how short it is, or even if it has a drain plug! My snow thrower could have used a longer tube then it would have dripped out without making a mess. Lawn mower doesn't even have a plug, you have to tip it upside down and dump the old oil the same way it goes in. I know it's a money saving thing to these companies, and pennies go a long way, but damn!
Thanks for that now I know what that sharft on my mulchers does
I wonder how much it would add to the cost if this were done at the factory. Blue or Red, 1000 engines a year, would it even add $1USD? But doing so would save so many folks issues down the road. But if the factory did this we wouldn't have this video, would we? Thank you for sharing it.
Michael Remski it’s all about selling parts. $$$$$$$$$
But yes, just making it simpler at the factory would be better for all of us
will you please tell me how that locktite is supposed to hold with all that oil on the female threads on the engine.........i don't get it............i'm sure you know a lot more than me but it does make me wonder about some of your methods............at least tilt the engine back a little ,,,,,,and clean the threads
it will, I've done it many times,
@@paulreid7370 Loctite makes a specific "oil tolerant" threadlocker. So they must know something. Most types of Loctite will likely be OK as you say, but you could go the extra mile with "oil tolerant."
@@donyboy73 ok, so i learned something but that's not saying i would trust it till i see it with my own eyes,,,,,,,,,,and in your video you could have saved me the question by pointing this out when you used it on the oiled threads.................thanks......
@@yardlimit8695 I can't read people's minds
good tip!
James Mullins where are you from
Awesome thanks
Works on lawn tractors too.
Go one step farther. Coat the threads on the side away from the engine block with Anti-Seize compound before installing the plug.
Thanks Don I was just having that exact issue. Very annoying so thank you!!! WHat do you think about a drainzit tube????
they are good
Just made a mess changing the oil in the church's snowblower, I didnt have any large pliers or vise grips so had to remove tube. I had oil everywhere as it ran down back of frame.
I would think the red Loctite is an overkill for this application since it's too powerful that if the drain nipple needed to be replaced, heat would be required to remove. Perhaps a medium strength Loctite such as the blue would be better suited. This is just a thought. I appreciate your videos donyboy 73.
J Nieto you need the red because of the heat the motor will produce
Good point. Thanks.
@@michaelfield9467 I checked with Loctite and with Red and Blue Temp range of -65 to 300 degrees F. applies to both. Except for Red Hi-temp/hi-strength formula which is Temp range -65 to 450.
J Nieto thank you for checking
@@michaelfield9467 Not a problem Michael. It's always good to learn.
Great Vid Dony
good evening
I didn't know lock tight came in a stick.
I definitely would have shot it with brake spray before applying thread lock.
That certainly solves the problem but wouldn't the use of red loctite make the tube nearly impossible to ever remove without damaging the threads on the engine? I elected to just use blue loctite on mine. It also solves the issue but allows the tube to be removed if needed.
you can still remove parts with red Loctite, it's not welded on
@@donyboy73 Agree. But it usually requires heat. I guess you could get in their with a torch and heat the area. Granted, the tube should never need to be removed. My luck is someone would cross-thread the cap after fixing the loose tube, :-)
I suppose if you stand a large nut to the left of the pipe and put two spot welds between the nut and pipe it would never undo ever again lol.
For your own equipment only of cause :-D
I put it on both ends, what do I do know?... 😂
You don't know much it seems. LOL
I just switch everything to brass nipples of whatever length I need, with a 1/4 turn ball valve on the end. That solves this problem and others.
I'd thought of that but I was afraid something might accidentally hit the ball valve handle and I'd be out of an engine.
Valid concern but I haven’t had that happen in 25+ years. In some applications, after the valve I add a very short nipple with an o-ringed cap that just goes on finger tight just for safety’s sake.
This is an awesome idea! Almost brilliant..... :-)
You can get the brass nipple ( that the tube coming out from the engine block) from a hardware store in the plumbing section. I added used a braided stainless flex tube after the valve and used it for several years. It was handy but the wires in the braiding started to break and you got little wire ends sticking up all along the flex hose. The main convenience was from the nipple and the valve so the flex was over kill. You can wire wrap the valve lever so that it won't turn accidentally.
Another thought - you could also remove the handle from the valve. In most cases this would mean any adjustable wrench would open it with a 1/4 turn - still easier than fighting the stock configuration and no chance of opening it by accident.
Well it shut and forget about it.
Or......put a 90 at the end of the nipple, then plug the 90, no more nipple twisting(unless she’s into it) and the oil drains straight down instead of out if it’s warm like how I like to drain any of my machines, hot oil flows better, leaving less old in the engine.
Your welcome
You should have tested your work. I do not trust it. Hope it works out as I enjoy your channel a lot.
I've done this man times before, you should trust me by now lol
Gary Rice In Donny we trust Hahaha! I’ll take his word for it 👍
In donyboy73 trust you must young padawan.
If it doesn't work, you're just back to holding with vice grips, right? So no harm done.
Put this video in your pet peeves!!
That's common sense. Are people really that dumb?
Yes. Some folks should not be allowed near tools. That is one of the reasons why tool boxes have locks on them!