I sold my ranger with 400,012kms clocked of trouble free business use. Same injectors same transmission. Engine still ran like new no issues at all. The secret is servicing. Oil change at10000k max auto at 40000k max. Early 3.2 engines had a problem with 9 minutes time limit to drain and refill oil and start engine. Oil pump wouldn’t prime if time was exceeded. The fix was to remove oil filter and dipstick and put tyre pump on dipstick hole until oil was pushed up through pump and filter housing. Refit filter and start engine
you were just lucky to get a good one , thats the problem with these engines they were such a hit or miss with the injectors , oil pump , egr valve , transmission coolers , egr coolers and oil pump coolers . good to see you got 400 out of it and sold it
For anyone else wondering… my Ranger is a 6/2013 2.2l and I just changed out the vane pump for a gear pump. Purely as a precaution, it hadn’t failed… I did install a pressure gauge beforehand to get an idea of the difference, the vane pump max would put out about 55psi, would sit at around 18 to 25 at idle and about 45psi at 100kph. Now I see spikes of over 90psi when cold, sits at about 50-60 when cruising at 100k and an idle pressure between 20 to 30…it’s never a constant steady pressure, always fluctuating but it is an electronic gauge so probably a bit more sensitive than the good old mechanical gauge. Also the new pump self primed in an instant when fired up for the first time.
I would have said the opposite regarding the oil gauge , I’d hold my faith in a good old capillary style gauge that does not rely on electricity . That’s just me though. It is always good to see good oil pressure. It’s funny looking at some modern engines that do have natively high oil pressure compared to older simpler engines. An old truck I used to have with a two stroke V8 would run about 2 psi at hot idle 😊, and that in those days was common for that particular engine , I rebuilt the engine and did a factory oil pump modification that lifted the psi to 6 pounds at hot idle ( woohoo 😊), at full noise it ran about 30 psi. Regarding the variable oil pump on the ranger , sometimes oil pressure variation has a dual purpose, like for example certain engine speed and oil pump pressure operating variable cam timing , it would be interesting to know more about the ranger oil pressure duties.
@@mikldude9376 the only reason I went with electronic is the head unit was easy to install next to my throttle controller, physically the same size and shape as well.
Ive ofter wondered why ford recommends 15000klm intervals for oil change , but mazda is at 10000klm. Same engine. Changing your oil more frequently is always beneficial. Hopefully people have watched your previous videos on egr operation, and will know when its open and how that will effect cold short distance driving. If you only did 10000klm per year you should consider changing your oil more than once. Real results are what your videos provide, thank you.
I convinced myself with a simple bit of math. It's over double the price of materials to have it serviced at the shops around here. So I change my oil myself twice as often as recommended and still end up saving money vs. doing it at the shop at the specified interval.
I feel very confident in saying , it’s all about marketing mate , if you have competitors selling similar products with 10,000 kilometre recommendations for servicing , then it looks a lot better in your marketing blurb if you’re product can do longer periods between services. You can guarantee, the ford bean counters will have weighed up the possible profit of extra customers versus X amount of possible early engine failures. It’s always about the mighty dollar mate.
I also wonder if its also the manufacturer trying to game Environment Social and Governance policy (like everyone does). Imagine the amount of oil and parts the dealers would have to get rid, this increase which would likely be reported ruining the green credentials that the manufacture is trying to spruike.
Another issue for the PX 3.2 is radiators (you all know about the wiring harness wearing through on the front of the engine, a sharp bit there) as when mine failed the RACQ guy asked ME on the phone if it was a PX Ranger! He uses Rangers for the RACQ business in Atherton and changed over all their Ranger’s radiators to heavy duty aluminium ones. I got the aluminium one to for about $2,500 fitted. (New hoses, thermostat etc)
When asked if full synthetic oil should be used in the Nissan GTR, Hiroshi Hasegawa, the chief designer, said it's not necessary and went on to say that a good quality semi synthetic is adequate but emphasised short intervals (6000 km) are more important. Are these the pumps that can't self prime by any chance?
The reason they fail is fatigue of the vanes, not wear as you suggest. You can see this on any broken pump, as they all break eventually. When the vanes are "in" they see no load, and when "out" they see the full pressure load to pump the oil, so every revolution of the pump those vanes go through a load-unload cycle and after a few million of those one breaks, and that usually either seizes the pump and breaks the front drive sprocket off, or it breaks the rest of the vanes and oil pressure is gone. You don't have a minute as the video says to pull over, the turbo bearings last about 3 seconds with no oil pressure if it was pulling boost. Also quite often when these break and wind the front sprocket off that then gets into the timing chain and breaks it, munching the valves and therefore scrapping the engine. Changing oil more often does not alter the cyclic load so makes little difference other a slight drag reduction on the vane tips. The only cure is to not buy one of these pieces of junk in the first place, the 2.2 and 3.2 are notorious for pumps failing around 150,000km. Just cheap Ford junk best avoided at all costs. I fixed mine when the pump failed by buying a Toyota Hilux, best cure for Ford oil pumps ever.
I get sick of people saying an oil change schedule is too long..especially like this bloke with no evidence behind his thoughts. I'd like to see the oil analised and let the results be the evidence. Keyboard mechanics are common unfortunately.
Just changed my oil pump from the vein one to the gear one two weeks ago. Of course when I refilled it, I changed the oil filter and fuel filter. Everything is back to as it should be. But I've noticed that since the change I'm average 12 l/100 instead of the 10.5 l/100 I normally get. It could just be that the weather has been hotter lately. Regardless, happy I changed the pump all the same.
That’s a *vane pump. Veins carry blood back to your heart. ❤️ I can’t see how the oil pump could affect fuel economy. I get about 10.5 l /100 km too but driving very gently. The solar panel on top might be adding wind resistance.
Being a doctor and only a weekend mechanic, please understand my confusion. I appreciate the clarification. Also glad to know that others get similar mileage. Do you have solar panels on the cabin roof?
Yes well known that the the geared pumps do result in extra fuel consumption due to loading the motor up a fraction more, im using around 12-13/100 also, run the geared pump for around 4 years now.
If it has variable cam timing and is operated by oil pressure as some are , I’m thinking that could have an effect on engine tune/valve timing as it goes through the rev range , I’m just guessing though. If you have a squid through a workshop manual it should give detail about cam timing and its operation.
yep i was not having any of the vane oil pump nonsense so i bit the bullet and changed out the pump for a geared oil pump in my driveway sump off cross member cut out and bolted back in the whole enchilada and i dont use 5w anything oil its just too thin gone up to a 15w-40 fully synthetic with no problems
Was the sump hard to get off? I watched a vid where it was stuck on there good , like he was smackin it with a punch and a hammer, and didn't even budge it..
Does anyone know if I can change out the oil pump without taking the engine out ( 2014 PX Ranger) ? Not sure if the sump will clear the steering rack. Cheers for the awesome informative video .
I recently changed my failed oil pump earlier this year. The short answer is yes but with great difficulty and highly not recommended. Did mine by lifting the engine. Sorry I couldn't offer better advice apart from you lifting the engine
How? coolant is actually less effective than just water the additives are for anti-corrosion and if you live in the very few places these have a anti-freeze additive in the coolant. I am yet to see any commercial product that makes water better at heat transference.
@@Sabumnim666 somehow it work. It not just has anti- freeze it also has anti-boil protection. Good anti-boil protection will keep your car much cooler because it will absorbing heat better. I use the nulon premium long life coolant premix in the past but it didn't keep the temperature as cool as nulon super heavy duty diesel. Wait for my next comment because I will give you an actual reading of the actual temperature because it requires driving.
Hello, I'm from Brazil, I have a 2017 Ranger 3.2 diesel, I want to install an oil pressure sensor, where is the best place to install it? I'm trying the turbine oil pipe but it's difficult
Supposedly that pump is very improved on the PX2+, but I'm not happy to trust it. My plan is to have it replaced with a gear pump when I have the EGR cooler replaced now that I'm just past 100k.
My 2015 PX2 still had the variable vane type pump, replaced it at just over 100k on the clock for the upgraded geared pump, on inspection of the old pump found it had already started self destructing internally with heavy wear marks.
My 2015 Px2s still had this pump, upgrade to a geared pump then there will be no more issues, no more 8min oil change requirements and the geared pumps self prime, runs higher oil pressures through the whole rev range providing better protection, trade off is the extra fuel consumption -1.5 -2L per 100
Does anyone think that the ill advise length of oil change specified by the factory is to cause the owner to spend more money on parts when the engine fails.
Overheating can also cause issues - there’s some plastic sensors (eg cam angle), gaskets, etc that can break up and wreck oil pump or jam journals. Wish there was a procedure to prime it without needing 15L of oil and a prayer
If you read the manual & service book that came with my 2014 XLT 3.2 ltr dual cab 4x4 it says the service every 7500 kilometres. Every one asumes its 15 000 kilometres & does it at 10 000 kilometre. It seams the newer Ranger with 3.2 ltr are 15 000 kilometres, it seams car manufacturers are competing with cheapest running costs & are stretching out service intervals.
I sold my ranger with 400,012kms clocked of trouble free business use. Same injectors same transmission. Engine still ran like new no issues at all. The secret is servicing. Oil change at10000k max auto at 40000k max. Early 3.2 engines had a problem with 9 minutes time limit to drain and refill oil and start engine. Oil pump wouldn’t prime if time was exceeded. The fix was to remove oil filter and dipstick and put tyre pump on dipstick hole until oil was pushed up through pump and filter housing. Refit filter and start engine
You are lucky, buy a lottery ticket . Thousands of failures is the only proof you need.
you were just lucky to get a good one , thats the problem with these engines they were such a hit or miss with the injectors , oil pump , egr valve , transmission coolers , egr coolers and oil pump coolers . good to see you got 400 out of it and sold it
For anyone else wondering… my Ranger is a 6/2013 2.2l and I just changed out the vane pump for a gear pump. Purely as a precaution, it hadn’t failed… I did install a pressure gauge beforehand to get an idea of the difference, the vane pump max would put out about 55psi, would sit at around 18 to 25 at idle and about 45psi at 100kph. Now I see spikes of over 90psi when cold, sits at about 50-60 when cruising at 100k and an idle pressure between 20 to 30…it’s never a constant steady pressure, always fluctuating but it is an electronic gauge so probably a bit more sensitive than the good old mechanical gauge.
Also the new pump self primed in an instant when fired up for the first time.
Definitely a good upgrade for the 3.2s!
I would have said the opposite regarding the oil gauge , I’d hold my faith in a good old capillary style gauge that does not rely on electricity .
That’s just me though.
It is always good to see good oil pressure.
It’s funny looking at some modern engines that do have natively high oil pressure compared to older simpler engines.
An old truck I used to have with a two stroke V8 would run about 2 psi at hot idle 😊, and that in those days was common for that particular engine , I rebuilt the engine and did a factory oil pump modification that lifted the psi to 6 pounds at hot idle ( woohoo 😊), at full noise it ran about 30 psi.
Regarding the variable oil pump on the ranger , sometimes oil pressure variation has a dual purpose, like for example certain engine speed and oil pump pressure operating variable cam timing , it would be interesting to know more about the ranger oil pressure duties.
@@mikldude9376 the only reason I went with electronic is the head unit was easy to install next to my throttle controller, physically the same size and shape as well.
Where'd you get your gear pump? I'm thinking of changing mine over
That’s a bloody awesome result. Did you have to remove the engine or could you do it in place? Cheers.
Ive ofter wondered why ford recommends 15000klm intervals for oil change , but mazda is at 10000klm. Same engine.
Changing your oil more frequently is always beneficial. Hopefully people have watched your previous videos on egr operation, and will know when its open and how that will effect cold short distance driving. If you only did 10000klm per year you should consider changing your oil more than once.
Real results are what your videos provide, thank you.
I convinced myself with a simple bit of math. It's over double the price of materials to have it serviced at the shops around here. So I change my oil myself twice as often as recommended and still end up saving money vs. doing it at the shop at the specified interval.
I feel very confident in saying , it’s all about marketing mate , if you have competitors selling similar products with 10,000 kilometre recommendations for servicing , then it looks a lot better in your marketing blurb if you’re product can do longer periods between services.
You can guarantee, the ford bean counters will have weighed up the possible profit of extra customers versus X amount of possible early engine failures.
It’s always about the mighty dollar mate.
@@mikldude9376 Yeah 100%. It's Marketing Practice, not Maintenance Practice.
I also wonder if its also the manufacturer trying to game Environment Social and Governance policy (like everyone does). Imagine the amount of oil and parts the dealers would have to get rid, this increase which would likely be reported ruining the green credentials that the manufacture is trying to spruike.
Another issue for the PX 3.2 is radiators (you all know about the wiring harness wearing through on the front of the engine, a sharp bit there) as when mine failed the RACQ guy asked ME on the phone if it was a PX Ranger! He uses Rangers for the RACQ business in Atherton and changed over all their Ranger’s radiators to heavy duty aluminium ones. I got the aluminium one to for about $2,500 fitted. (New hoses, thermostat etc)
i covered this issue in my injector replacement video
2500 fir a radiator and hoses dafuq that’s a piss take
i use full syn penrite 10w40 10k service intervals,ive blocked the EGR my oil is still clean on the dipstick after 10k
When asked if full synthetic oil should be used in the Nissan GTR, Hiroshi Hasegawa, the chief designer, said it's not necessary and went on to say that a good quality semi synthetic is adequate but emphasised short intervals (6000 km) are more important.
Are these the pumps that can't self prime by any chance?
Yep.
The reason they fail is fatigue of the vanes, not wear as you suggest. You can see this on any broken pump, as they all break eventually. When the vanes are "in" they see no load, and when "out" they see the full pressure load to pump the oil, so every revolution of the pump those vanes go through a load-unload cycle and after a few million of those one breaks, and that usually either seizes the pump and breaks the front drive sprocket off, or it breaks the rest of the vanes and oil pressure is gone. You don't have a minute as the video says to pull over, the turbo bearings last about 3 seconds with no oil pressure if it was pulling boost. Also quite often when these break and wind the front sprocket off that then gets into the timing chain and breaks it, munching the valves and therefore scrapping the engine. Changing oil more often does not alter the cyclic load so makes little difference other a slight drag reduction on the vane tips. The only cure is to not buy one of these pieces of junk in the first place, the 2.2 and 3.2 are notorious for pumps failing around 150,000km. Just cheap Ford junk best avoided at all costs. I fixed mine when the pump failed by buying a Toyota Hilux, best cure for Ford oil pumps ever.
Excellent reply, thanks mate was a good read. Completely agree with you.
i disagree, 362 000kms and still going strong, i would recommend watching my 1KD video.
I get sick of people saying an oil change schedule is too long..especially like this bloke with no evidence behind his thoughts. I'd like to see the oil analised and let the results be the evidence. Keyboard mechanics are common unfortunately.
Great explanation. Did you solve the problem of the rear cylinders overheating on the Ariel square four? 😁
Would love to see a video about blanking a px2. So hard to find proper informations. Like this channel!
Greets from Germany, keep it up👍🏽
i will be doing a video on this in the upcoming weeks
Just changed my oil pump from the vein one to the gear one two weeks ago. Of course when I refilled it, I changed the oil filter and fuel filter. Everything is back to as it should be. But I've noticed that since the change I'm average 12 l/100 instead of the 10.5 l/100 I normally get. It could just be that the weather has been hotter lately. Regardless, happy I changed the pump all the same.
That’s a *vane pump. Veins carry blood back to your heart. ❤️ I can’t see how the oil pump could affect fuel economy. I get about 10.5 l /100 km too but driving very gently. The solar panel on top might be adding wind resistance.
Being a doctor and only a weekend mechanic, please understand my confusion. I appreciate the clarification. Also glad to know that others get similar mileage. Do you have solar panels on the cabin roof?
Yes well known that the the geared pumps do result in extra fuel consumption due to loading the motor up a fraction more, im using around 12-13/100 also, run the geared pump for around 4 years now.
@@Offroad_Airscapes thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.
If it has variable cam timing and is operated by oil pressure as some are , I’m thinking that could have an effect on engine tune/valve timing as it goes through the rev range , I’m just guessing though.
If you have a squid through a workshop manual it should give detail about cam timing and its operation.
What about if you use an oil additive
Amigo que pena ustedes en sustituir la bomba de caudal variable por un de piñones para ese motor??
Thank you for the videos Mate, Peace be with you, God Bless You. 🙏
yep i was not having any of the vane oil pump nonsense so i bit the bullet and changed out the pump for a geared oil pump in my driveway sump off cross member cut out and bolted back in the whole enchilada and i dont use 5w anything oil its just too thin gone up to a 15w-40 fully synthetic with no problems
Was the sump hard to get off? I watched a vid where it was stuck on there good , like he was smackin it with a punch and a hammer, and didn't even budge it..
Does anyone know if I can change out the oil pump without taking the engine out ( 2014 PX Ranger) ? Not sure if the sump will clear the steering rack. Cheers for the awesome informative video .
I recently changed my failed oil pump earlier this year. The short answer is yes but with great difficulty and highly not recommended. Did mine by lifting the engine. Sorry I couldn't offer better advice apart from you lifting the engine
@@montoku cool thanks for the info.
I also use nulon super heavy duty diesel coolant. It keep temperature cooler than a stock coolant.
How? coolant is actually less effective than just water the additives are for anti-corrosion and if you live in the very few places these have a anti-freeze additive in the coolant. I am yet to see any commercial product that makes water better at heat transference.
@@Sabumnim666 somehow it work. It not just has anti- freeze it also has anti-boil protection. Good anti-boil protection will keep your car much cooler because it will absorbing heat better. I use the nulon premium long life coolant premix in the past but it didn't keep the temperature as cool as nulon super heavy duty diesel.
Wait for my next comment because I will give you an actual reading of the actual temperature because it requires driving.
Been tested. 40min of driving around the town. Temperature sit 83c. Before I use this coolant it sit 90c. Haven't been tested on highway driving yet.
Hello, I'm from Brazil, I have a 2017 Ranger 3.2 diesel, I want to install an oil pressure sensor, where is the best place to install it? I'm trying the turbine oil pipe but it's difficult
Can you send me a link to get a replacement oil pump like yours.
Supposedly that pump is very improved on the PX2+, but I'm not happy to trust it. My plan is to have it replaced with a gear pump when I have the EGR cooler replaced now that I'm just past 100k.
yeh they revised it in mid 2013
So my 2014 Ranger has an updated pump from factory? Cheers 😊
I asked Ford about that and it’s the same part number. They didn’t know about it
My 2015 PX2 still had the variable vane type pump, replaced it at just over 100k on the clock for the upgraded geared pump, on inspection of the old pump found it had already started self destructing internally with heavy wear marks.
@@John-gj9dbno not the case sadly, the px2s still had the rubbish variable vane pumps so your 2014 would still have it too.
Do you have the exact month they revised it? I have a 2013 so not sure what mid 2013 covers
My 2015 Px2s still had this pump, upgrade to a geared pump then there will be no more issues, no more 8min oil change requirements and the geared pumps self prime, runs higher oil pressures through the whole rev range providing better protection, trade off is the extra fuel consumption -1.5 -2L per 100
@@Offroad_Airscapes is it a lot of labour to switch the pump? Also is your pump an aftermarkey pump?
may 2013
@@abdautomotive thanks
Does anyone think that the ill advise length of oil change specified by the factory is to cause the owner to spend more money on parts when the engine fails.
Overheating can also cause issues - there’s some plastic sensors (eg cam angle), gaskets, etc that can break up and wreck oil pump or jam journals.
Wish there was a procedure to prime it without needing 15L of oil and a prayer
If you read the manual & service book that came with my 2014 XLT 3.2 ltr dual cab 4x4 it says the service every 7500 kilometres. Every one asumes its 15 000 kilometres & does it at 10 000 kilometre. It seams the newer Ranger with 3.2 ltr are 15 000 kilometres, it seams car manufacturers are competing with cheapest running costs & are stretching out service intervals.
At 7,5tkm? Like on Fiat from the '70s. And to that a full synthetic? I dont say I'm poor, but man...
I prevented all these issues by not buying a ranger😂. We all know they are shitboxes and hence the 3.2 aint made anymore. Bring on the next one😂😂😂