Eric, we love you and thanks for all your help. In this case, I respectfully repeat what you said, you are still learning. Everyone knows the best solution is to replace the gasket. Just like that cardboard that is taped on the window of your door behind you in the video. The best solution is to replace the door or put up a blind, but the cheap easy solution was to tape up cardboard. You are not so different than us stop-leak users. It worked good enough but door window professionals will strongly suggest you hire them instead. I would add that a mechanic is not the best source to judge stop-leak. If it works then the mechanic will never know about it. You only see the times it did not work. I just tried it and it seems to be working good enough. I know it is probably temporary. If/when it fails, I will visit my mechanic.
@Ons Huis I used it twice. Once on a Civic and it worked great for a year or so before I gave the car to my daughter. She later sold it so I don't know if it is still working. On my present Saturn Vue it has been a year with no problems.
Great point! This Eric dude is not open-minded. Not everyone has 8k laying around to change a head gasket for a mechanic or even change it themselves with limited knowledge of cars.
I used Bars Leak on an old car with a leaky radiator. It stopped the leak immediately. I drove the car several more years and 100,000 miles and had no further problems with the leak, and the heater worked great.
I took my car to a mechanic because I was loosing coolant. I paid him 1,500.00 to replace a leaking gasket so he claimed. 2 days later it was loose on coolant again. The mechanic wanted more money to "guess" where the leak was conning from. I put in stop leak, the leak stopped, and the car has been fine for the past 4 years. Now I wish I had tried that in the first place. Would have saved me 1,500.00!
Gutsyndicate Have you ever had to have any mechanical work done. You wouldn't rebuild this engine for 1500. It is a supercharged 3.6 with inter cooler, and there are so many pipes and hoses under the hood that it is impossible to get at anything. Mechanics are all crooks. I have never met one that isn't. Every time I have ever had any work done, it is always 2 to 3 times what the quote was, and if you waffle they just give your car back with the engine in pieces.
Gutsyndicate This wasn't a "big box" shop it was the local garage / gas station, and he came well recommended from people. We have in my town 5 small repair shops. They all charge 95.00 to do an estimate. The last time I got hosed was another local that worked out of his garage at home, and he took me to the cleaners as well, and on top of that he messed up my ABS system, and now tells me I need a 4,000 part to fix it. That was fine until he told me my brakes were worn and needed replacing. The day after getting my car back from that bandit, the ABS warning light started coming on intermittently. Took it back, he read the diag codes and said I need a ABS high pressure pump and it is 4 grand, than recommended that I trade the car in. It went to him initially because of a vibration in the front wheel, which turned out to be a bad tire. I told him to replace the tires, and he called back, while I was working, and thus couldn't talk and said the brakes were worn and needed new pads, and that would be couple of hundred more, so I OKd that. When I went to pick it up, the bill was 1800.00 for 4 tires, 4 brake pads, he said the rotors wouldn't machine so they had to be replaced. This guy was a friend of a friend that did it, and since that time, because I bad mouthed him, my original friend has unfriended me on face book, and we haven't spoken in a year. I go in thinking 600 or 700 for a set of tires and it ends up being over a grand more. Of course he isn't admitting fu--ing up my brake system, but I don't believe in coincidences do you? It is a Hybrid car, and I think it was over his head, but some people do not admit when they don't have the training, or expertise they just go in blind. At my company you do that, and you get a day in the park or worse. Not trained for a specific job, call the boss and get someone else to do it until training is provided. But then again, I work for a utility where a screw up could leave hundreds or thousands of customers without service, so failure is not an option.
Gutsyndicate They are all crooks. Just like veterinarians. They are crooks. They know that your dog or cat isn't going to make it the second you walk in, but they milk you 500 or 600 for tests that will just confirm that the animal is going to die. They are all in to separate you from as much money as they can. 30 years ago I took my old car in to have the water pump replaced because I did not have the right tools to do it. The mechanic told me he would charge me 80.00 to change it, which I though was fair. Wouldn't you know, once he got the pump off, he said the one I supplied was "different" and couldn't be used, so he had to sell me a new pump, but he would be a great guy and buy the pump I supplied back from me.So now it was 130.00 for a pump installed. Then he quoted me for a serpentine belt another, 80.00 as mine was all cracked. I said DO NOT REPLACE IT, as I can do that myself. I go in to pick up my car, what was the bill 210.00 I questioned how come, as I told him not to replace the belt, which he didn't but came up with the excuse that my car had dealer installed air conditioning, and that took extra time. Like he didn't see that as soon as he opened the hood. He was pissed because I wouldn't buy an 80.00 belt (my buddy worked for goodyear at the time and got me one for 23.00) so he invented a new charge that just happened to be 80.00. All crooks. I have never found an honest mechanic yet. My dealers service dept has been pretty good to me, but my car has been under warranty so I have never had a bill yet for it.
Most shops warranty their work for at least 3 months/3,000 miles; even if not, a professional shop is still likely subject to an implied warranty of workmanship/merchantability, depending on the state. Even if Stop Leak did work, it's merely a band aid solution; if you're losing coolant, mechanical repair is the only long-term fix. I would get that rectified while you still can.
Tyler Brown The car is not on the road now, it has been in storage for the past 4 years. Eventually it will be a project car. It is a 95 Supercoupe in excellent condition, that I have owned since new, and my son has said since he could talk that he wanted the car, so eventually it will be his car, and I really hope he takes pride in owing one of the last TBird supercoupes to roll off the line. It is a very rare color, chameleon blue. Look up that color and you will see that they didn't make very many in that color. It is all original, right down to the am fm cassette radio and original speakers. Will definitely be collectors car.
if the dude let the motor overheat THAT MUCH, chances are he never evr maintained the vehicle or changed the coolant - so don't blame all the gunk on stop leak.
I used K- seal on my 1998 Nissan Maxima.. it worked. I’m not being payed to promote any product,I simply care for people like me who are living check by check.I agree with this man 100% read the directions.people have asked me “ this stuff doesn’t work” I ask them to bring me the bottle and I explain to them how it should have been done, most of the time they are eager to stop the leak that they end up messing it up.
I've been able to go another 30,000 without a leaky head gasket after using the kind of sealant that goes directly in your coolant (k&w nanotech in my case). Problem is, it eventually contributed to a radiator clog. If you try the stuff, make sure you flush most of it out after a few thousand miles.The metal particles eventually fall out of suspension and settle where you don't want them to be.
Maybe if mechanics didn't charge $1500 to $2000 for a head gasket repair AND also keep the customer's car for two weeks while the repairs are being done, then more people would probably get it fixed properly. Most people can't afford EITHER the repair and/or the loss of their transportation for two weeks. People have to still get to work in order to put food on the table for the family Until then, Barrs Leak and Blue Devil will continue to sell
8 hours work Parts Coolant Plus over heads What do you think they should charge? You have no argument. Dealerships are the root of evil, not mum and dad businesses
In my 60+ years, I have tried a few different stop leak products, and I also draw from the experience of my mechanic father. One kind - and one only - has ever worked, and that is the silver powder stuff. It's great for small hole in radiator, etc. Another huge benefit: That stuff feels slippery in the coolant and I have NEVER seen a water pump go bad with that in the coolant. Lubricates pump, maybe? Whatever the reason, it's worth the price if stop leak for a lifetime water pump.
Thanks for the video, Eric. However, my dad had a '99 Caddy DeVille with the NorthStar V-8, on which the head gaskets CANNOT be replaced, due to the head mounting studs being stretched upon the initial engine build. Rather than replace the engine [111,000 miles], I used a head gasket sealing product. Following the directions TO THE LETTER, it sealed the head gaskets! I prefer to change the gaskets also, but in this instance the stuff worked as promised, could even run A/C and sit in traffic with NO temp issues. But thanks again for the opinion, Eric!!! 3:)
Your videos are great, and you are a great mechanic...however as you said yourself, you aren't a Chemical Engineer. The copper on that gasket is the remnants of copper slip or similar, a compound often used by OEMs and some mechanics on head gaskets, def. not stop leak. Stop leak blocks holes using fibers that cover the hole and that traps either copper or aluminum flakes in the fibers. a sealing agent then seals the repair. For this process to work it requires air as a catalyst. Basically the blocking process and the chemical reactions wont start internally without air. Could air bubbles in the coolant start the process internally ? I doubt it, as they are transient., but theoretically I guess in some situations where there is a lot of air in the system they might. That said, when parts get clogged up with what looks like liquid copper or aluminum is generally because like you said, people haven't followed directions properly and used way too much in a last ditch attempt to fix something stop leak wasn't indicated for, like a blown head gasket. For small radiator leaks where the leak is in a metal part , not a plastic section or hose, the success rate is higher. You can even drain the remaining stop leak out and the hole will remained sealed. Jaguars Factory manual for the V12's used in XKE's and XJ12's actually included a step to add a small bottle of stop leak as part of every coolant service. That was back in the 70's. The chemical technology of these products has most certainly improved since then. The bottom line still ties up with what you advised, it wont fix a major internal issue and it wont perform miracles on areas of the cooling system other than those its indicated for. Even then it depends on the size of the leak. Mechanical repair is always the best, but with respect, I suspect some of your observations were factually incorrect. Most of the compounds that had clogged up that cooling system were caused by silt or minerals in the water/coolant mixture, breakdown of the coolant or past mixing of different coolant types. Most people use tap water mixed with coolant, some tap water is really high in mineral content and just like a tea kettle or coffee maker, gets furred up.
+Lisa Phillips Would the lack of air as a catalyst be the reason the lower radiator inlet he points out at 6:21 is free of the "fuzz" that is present in the upper inlet?
+Lisa Phillips How do I say this without sounding inappopropriate? Intelligent women, such as yourself, are far too few. I'm sure the same goes for males, just for the record. Thank you for the informative comment.
+Lisa Phillips i used stop leak because i had an oil pan gasket leak in a 90's ute. it stopped leaking after a couple of weeks and never leaked another drop for around two and a half years before i sold it. i think if people are using as instructed and can prove damage to their engines the should have a good case for court
The reason pppl try stop leak instead just putting on a head gasket, as simple as you made it sound, is because most ppl don’t have $1500 laying around.
It's the labor that costs so much. Not the part. So if you know how to do it yourself then it's pretty cheap. You just have to be interested enough in learning how to do it lol. The amount I've saved being able to repair my own car was enough to spark an interest in learning how to do it. It can be kinda fun
Hi Eric, I just wanted to take a second and let you know I always go to your channel firstl and search for repair videos for subjects I need help with. You always seem genuine kind and most of all very knowledgeable. So big thank you keep it up!
ericthecarguy - you are quickly becoming my go to source when I am faced with car repairs/fixes. when faced with a leaking water pump on my wife's SUV, my local shop offered an obviously more expensive replacement or a much cheaper stop leak treatment...you helped convince me to bite the bullet and fix the part rather than take the easy (and cheaper) way out. thanks
There are actually instances that this can work just fine. Is a blown head gasket the correct instance? Hell no. Is a minor leak from a seal or o-ring somewhere an instance this may work? Absolutely. That said it won't last forever. It is a band aid but this band aid can last much longer than you may think. Same can be said for power steering and oil leaks. As long as it's a small or low pressure side leak then it stands a chance to work. This all said if you are able to track down where the leak is coming from then you are MUCH better off actually fixing the leak rather than throwing a bottle of "wish/hope" fluid into the system.
My son has an dodge avenger 2011, with back pressure from engine. I told him we should try Bars. AMD I have a 99 dodge 1500, with a coolant leak, coming from head gasket. If it works for his car ....I'm using it for my truck.
used Bar's Leaks Liquid Aluminum in my 99 dodge dakota. my water pump wasn't sealing with the hose running to the heater. Sealed it right up within a day...
I was Driving from California to Oklahoma and the water pump went out...I put a bottle of bars stop leak in the radiator never thought it would work but it did the leak stopped within about 10 minutes I topped it off and made it all the way to Oklahoma and it lasted another 2 years after that so it worked for me
I used Steel seal it and it worked for 2 years now & the car is currently still running "2011 prius 270k miles", Remove the thermostat, Flush completely!!!! all coolant out of system, Use a cooling system flush & make sure to 100% get it all out, then wait for the engine to be 100% cold like it is in the morning, add the steal seal in the radiator with "DISTILLED WATER", Run it for 30 mins with the heater on high, Let it cool completely, Run it for another 30 mins the next day, Remove all the water & let the car sit for 24 hours for the steel seal to cure "COMPLETELY" , Then replace the thermostat, Add coolant back to the car & your good to go......
I used this stuff call K-Seal for a head gasket leak and it worked. Car used to sputter real bad and leak coolant into the cylinder well. 6 months later, still no problems on my 300,000+ mile motor. Hoping to actually replace the head gasket if I have get the time to tear the motor down but I barely get vacation time.
+pk06511 The stuff I used called K-Seal came from Autozone. It's about $12 a bottle. I've also been recommended by a mechanic to use Blue Devil but that stuff is quite expensive. Just have to make sure you read the instructions carefully. Some products say you can leave it in for future protection, others you have to do multiple flushes after the sealer has worked which is the stuff I think is giving people problems.
+dekoldrick You don't have to tear the motor down, pull off the intake and exhaust manifold, losen the timing belt/chain and pull it off the cam gears and pull the head, shouldn't take more than 5 or 6 hours to replace the head gasket.
Been using it for 40+ years from flatheads to Northstars and NEVER failed. DONE CORRECTLY it is a permanent fix.. Remove thermostat and reinstall housing. Three clear water flushes of the cooling system with the engine brought to temp each time before starting procedure. Start procedure and use ONLY straight silicate (
This makes sense. Where do you get the silicate? I assume in comes in a powder form, in a bag, or a bottle, perhaps? Is there a name brand I should be looking for and should I be looking for it at Home Depot or something like that? Quick G search didn't turn up a whole lot and I have a lady friend with a bad head gasket who would like it fixed sooner rather than later. I hope to have some good head....... gaskets this weekend. ;)
The question should be rephrased, If your head gasket blew in the middle of a desert during a zombie apocalypse, do you think stop leak would get you out of the situation.
Hey Eric, last week, I replaced the engine oil in my 1995 Hyundai excel, after not having done so for quite a long while (2.5+ years). I used a 20-50w mineral oil. Since then, I had some issues with my car, which started to white smoke in the exhaust, and creamy white residue on the oil cap. This forum suggested it was a leak issue and to change the head gasket. I've since installed a new one myself. The issue is still continuing, and there is still white creamy build up on the oil cap. The parts store i visit, suggested I use 'Seal-tite'/'Stop Leak' style product. Essentially the steps are to run the engine to get the thermostat to open, flush the radiator, fill it up again, and then add the product. It's meant to seal up leaks, using copper solution (or that's what i got from our conversation). I've read some mainly negative things about using such a product, but it might be adequate to give our car more years (which is all we really need). Question? Do i use the product? What other cheap options/alternatives do I have? How else can I diagnose the problem?
this guy makes decent ass videos. he doesn't fuck around for several minutes in the beginning like I've seen a lot of videos. he's very professional and informative. also shows proof rather than hearsay. I like this guy
I drove an old chevy six cylinder with a small crack in the block for over a hundred thousand miles with barrs leak. I had to recharge the stopleak about every six months. The down side was it rotted the hoses quicker, but it was an old chevy with only 4 hoses that were easy to get to, no big deal. I don't know about modern cars with sixteen hoses going every which where and it where it takes three months training to learn to change a fan belt.
Eric, i bought a nissan micra for 50 bucks and tested heavy duty block repair stopleak product. I had oil and coolant mixed with together. Emptied the coolant and filled it with water + the stopleak.. Ran the car to work and back and then emptied the mixture out and replaced it with fresh coolant and oil + filter. No more oil and coolant mixing with eachother. Temps are okay too. So my problem was fixed. I wouldn't recommend it to a expensive car but a cheap piece of shit, yeah go ahead. It'll keep it running for a couple of months before it needs to be scrapped.
Actually Bars Block Sealer worked very well for me. I had a small head gasket leak that required adding a gallon of water after a ten mile drive and a fairly severe misfire with a check engine light from a PO301 code (cylinder 1 misfire). Adding a bottle of block seal not only eliminated the coolant loss to zero...but it also ran fantastic because it was firing on all cylinders and the check engine light never came back on. This car wasn't worth putting a new head gasket on, but for now it's running as good as ever...well worth this $10 investment.
Had an old B2000 and drove 2 hours out of town. When I got there it had drank literally all the coolant but somehow managed to not overheat but was making some interesting sounds. Filled it up and it drank it all in 5 miles. Clearly headgasket failure. I needed to get home so tried one of the more expensive stop leak products. Within 5-10 minutes of idling it stopped needing me to keep topping off the water. Drove it home and every day for a few days until I had time to replace the gasket. So I don't know about long term but it worked a miracle in my book to get me home.
I had a head gasket go out in the dead of winter in a 95 civic and I didnt have a place to work on the car. I used stop leak and it sealed until summer then the headgasket went out again. Replaced head gasket, timing belt, water pump, thermostat and flushed all the coolant. So I guess you could say that in my case I had a good experience. Now that I have a shop at my house I would fix the problem not the symptom.
you have never used bar's leak head gasket fix before i have used it to repair a cracked head drove it for 2 years thinking it would be temporary fix sold it and i still see it from time to time
I've been a mechanic for 30 years and the only "mechanic in a can" I have ever seen work was STP in my 77 Civic that was burning oil so bad there was a continuous cloud behind me and it was a rust bucket so i had nothing to lose. It stopped buring oil and lasted a long time. BTW ericthecarguy is one guy on the internet that actually knows his stuff. Thanks for the videos.
It's worked for me on a 2000 Chevy Express 3500 5.7L gas engine. I used Bars Stop Leak the $30 bottle. It also worked on my 98 Ford Taurus 3.0L gas engine. I used the Bars Stop Leak $9 bottle from Walmart the stuff that is the 2 part mixture. After the stuff has done its job and fixed the leak I always do a complete coolant system flush to avoid potentially clogging my coolant system from using the stuff. They say you can leave it in but I don't le the idea of keeping it in there.
I'm gonna be trying head gasket sealant tomorrow on my 04 Outback. The thing has 250,000 miles. The engine doesn't even sound like it's super strong, you can def. tell it's an older engine. Is it worth putting $1000-2000 for a gasket/engine replacement when the whole thing is worth $3000? I don't think so. So I say sealant is worth using on a inexpensive car that either way you're gonna need to replace the engine. Would I use it in my Impreza with 60k? hell no. But this 11 year Outback probably has it's day's numbered. I'll probably part it out if something goes.
Of course this mechanic doesn't like it, because it will put him out of business. Sealants are just options for people with limited budget. If you have a car with a book value of 3500 are you going to spend 1500 or 2000 dollars on it? You mechanic want to have more business, lowered the cost of your service by learning how to machine these darn parts!!
This wouldn't put him out of business. Stop Leak won't fix everything. Most car repairs can't be fixed with a $20 bottle of chemicals. Stop Leak doesn't work all the time, and he's probably not going to get someone bringing their car to him after Stop Leak worked. For many people, Stop Leak works. But not everyone. And even when it does work, it shouldn't be considered to be a permanent fix. In most cases, you won't get more than a few months of driving from it.
my dad suv had hairline crack on engine head he used to fill 1 liter of water every sunday in the radiator for 5 years then i saw this product and used ever since no water need every week and first time after 6 year he used coolant in this suv . that head problem was manufactured defect but we detected after warranty
We have a similar product here in the uk. What I used on my old BMW 320i, worked as a quick repair whilst I didn't have the spare cash to do the job properly. It lasted a couple of years, but then the car started to burn a lot oil so I decided to do the job properly when I had the cash.
Stop Leak worked for me about 20 years ago when it was the most faintest minute coolant leak. But, if you have substantial leaking, it's time to replace the radiator and upper and lower coolant hoses. Your video on replacing a Honda Civic Radiator provided helpful precautions for me to follow when I replaced the radiator on my 2001 Honda Odyssey. I used a new aftermarket radiator from KOI/Federated but, I made sure that I purchased the coolant and upper and lower hoses from the Honda Dealership Parts Counter. I would never use stop leak for a leaky head gasket.
BornToQuill I agree with this 110%. It's not for repairing, claiming it's fixed, and wiping your hands of the situation. It's for dyer needs like being stuck at a truck stop at 1 a.m. with 5-6 hours drive to go. It's pearly a possible backup in time of (as you said) emergencies.
The best stop leak in a pinch I've found, is creek water. I use to buck hay in the summer time for $ and we had an old late 80s early 90s Dodge that was overheating horribly. (Going around a field all day long in 100*F weather at idle) There was a hole in the radiator, and whenever we took a break we'd fill it back up with creek water, after awhile all the crap that was in the water plugged up the hole and no issues since.
Great vid..I agree never use sealant on a headgasket problem..but leaking heater core on a FORD Freestar where the entire dash and steering column has to be removed to access the heater core for replacement..yes.. I used a product called Irontite...mixes with coolant..no need to flush and/or drain...follow instructions to the letter and run vehicle for an hour..no more core leaks...no plugged thermostat.This product is the consistency of milk with no pellets or chunks. I was very sceptical but for $20.00 it did the job. One year later still no leaks. Worth every penny. Best to you and yours.
I bought a 05 Grand Am with a suspected head gasket leak, while bringing her home it was no longer suspect, I was a rolling fog machine! I have the same thought you do but couldn't get a gasket and ended up getting the permanent head gasket stop leak. (Claim guaranteed to work) Followed directions to the letter after reading 3 times to be sure I'd get it right. Result, shocked! She's running like the 3.4 heavy weight champ! No leaks and it's been 5 months. Continue to keep inspecting and see how it goes. Oh, and doing the TH-cam research the first step ;) Thanks Eric, stay dirty!!
I think that car was seriously lacking regular maintenance... Stop leak can't fix that. How do you get an engine that hot anyway?? Temperature gauge anyone???
Temp gauge doesnt get a engine hot lol.... My sending unit(coolant temp sensor) doesnt work on my swap since I’ve swapped it (5 months already) and I never overheated besides me forgetting to check coolant and revisor levels.
I work in the automotive industry, I stopped in here to say the only and I mean only stop leak product that works is Blue Devil. No other one seems to work and almost all shops will use it and charge you for a head gasket fix. It's expensive stuff but as Eric says it will not perform a miracle. If your head gasket has a small and I mean smaaaaaaaaaall leak it may work. But I am completely with Eric on this. I will never use any stop leak in any of my vehicles. period. I just know some people are desperate and cannot afford to have a car out of commission for x amount of time. The more head gaskets you replace the better you get. Also being familiar with the engine is a plus. For heavens sake look at the water jacket holes and oil passage holes in a head and think about it when you put any kind of foreign product in your car. Putting it in and praying can lead to eventual failure of the bottom end of the engine. Seems to me a head gasket and a little of my time researching the engine and doing a days worth of work far out weighs the cost of doing a bottom end of an engine. Then if you do have it work it usually is for a very short time and then you get to clean and clean and then clean some more to reverse what you just did. Also check out the small hole on cam shafts that little tiny hole is an oil hole to keep the cam in top order. You plug it with this crap then you can say good bye to your cam bearings. For those people who say they don't wanna or aren't confident enough to do a head gasket. Think about the fact the engine was assembled from parts and is meant to be disassembled for maintenance. I mean how many people know how to adjust valve lash that have push rod engines? There was a time where doing that adjustment was part of maintaining the engine. I personally am in the midst of rebuilding the bottom of an engine LN3 3.8L engine because someone decided to see how far stop leak could take them. The total distance it got was around 75 miles before a nice knock developed in the engine. Now I get to do the bottom and top end of the engine because someone decided to believe an idiot who told them stop leak worked. But I'm persistent and can't stand to see a 3800 engine die even if it is the pre-series I 3800. And then again I was kind of looking for a reason to do a modded build. Big cam, bore 40 over etc etc that kind of thing. I know it's 60 degree V6 but I wanna see what I can pull out of it. :P Lastly just a rule of thumb if you put black pepper in and it didn't stop it then nothing else will. Time for new gaskets. And for christ sake lap the head if it is aluminum. Tolerance should be around 0.0015mm of flatness in 9 points of measurement across the head. Machining does a decent job but lapping does better. Oh and lap on either granite or glass preferably granite. No need to redo it after you do it once.
A mechanic told me that Stop Leak and Sealer does work. It doesn't seal what it's not supposed to seal. The sealing happens due to the presence of air. In other words, if the chemical detects air in an opening such as a crack, that's when the sealing starts.
Thanks Eric, I really enjoy your videos. I bought an 02 Chev Venture ten years ago, it had the copper gunk already in it and it didn't fix the coolant leak, so I got the van cheap enough to offset the cost of a top end overhaul. I had a few hundred miles to get it home so I picked up the aluminum flaky bottle of gunk instead, dumped it in. By the time I got home, the leak stopped. I never did reseal that top end, and still run that van every day. It still consumes maybe a quart of coolant a year, and I catch a whiff of coolant in the exhaust on cold mornings (like 30F below zero or colder cold) I think the deal breaker is that it wasn't a coolant to combustion chamber leak, it was just coolant to intake port leak. The heater isn't terribly effective either, I expect the heater core is gunked up.
It does work, you kinda already proven that by showing us the head gasket. The gasket is saturated by the copper filler (as i call it) which is a good thing. However you also show us a NONE broken gasket but a warped one, no shit it did not work indeed. Look up a couple of vids, it really works for most minor to even BAD head gasket issues given fact legit broken ones, not warped ones. I agree that replacing should be the way to go, you do this anyways as you have to make money of it (it's your profession) but it does work was my point.
+Michel Linschoten eric is a parts changer who does it far a living where it has to be done in a professional manner, personally i use what ever it takes and i have used it and some times it works sometimes it dont. I saved a lot of money on just one time.
CzarPeppers Why? Fix it yourself, most of the shit that happens to a car you can fix yourself. I recently bought a old Chevrolet s10 (see my channel it was in a very bad non drive able shape) i am far being an car expert. My neighbor and i worked on it a couple of days. And she is on the road again...we replaced pretty much the entire front end (bearing, bushings,link arm,blower motor, shocks, rag joint ectra) if i can do all that stuff why not you? People rather spend a shit-ton of money to mechanics. While you can get a ODB2 reader for as low as 12usd and pinpoint problems pretty much yourself. All i takes is you not being lazy, and use the internet to do something productive instead of commenting on videos like this. LEARN, educate yourself and give it a shot yourself to fix the problem. I am not saying Eric does not know his job, but i do NOT agree always with how he approaches certain projects. That is subjective..Eric and i had a discussion about this before with all respect to him and he was to me very respectful. I admire the man for the love he has for his job. Does NOT mean i have to take everything he does or says as gospel.
I have used Stop leak and had success. That said I have only used on small heater core leaks and it is only a temporary fix. but long enough to get me thru the winter so I didn't have to mess the cooling system in 20 degree weather.
I have a leaky power steering rack. Stop leak has improved it, not fixed it . I only plan to have the car a few more months and was just trying to stop the hemorrhage. I think for a temporary measure on a car near the end of it's life, it's certainly a viable option to squeeze a few extra months out while shopping for another car.
Bought a used 2009 Ford Escape with 50k in Colombia, (South America). Almost in perfect condition, decided to replace all fluids, etc. Coolant system was drained and flushed several times before adding new coolant, aprox. 2 weeks later a 2 small external leaks developed, after doing some research, found out that service manual recommends adding leak stop pellets at fluid change, more researched revealed that these where actually the same as Bar Leaks Tablets, more research indicated that they are mostly ginger root based !!, added 2 teaspoons of finely ground ginger root, problem solved !!, almost 2 years ago, no coolant leaks or level drop in reservoir. Have brand new radiator under bed for a year now JIC :)
The thing is... The stuff worked exactly as advertised. It found the problem areas and it applied itself there. The stuff doesn't work miracles but for minor leaks it's a great product. I've heard plenty of stories of it working. The guy says himself he isn't a chemical specialist. So really this is just an opinion (which he has every right to have). But this should in no way make up your kind about using stop leak.
i tried it k&b block seal on my f150 with 225000 miles for the same reason i didnt figure it was worth it, so far it appears to have worked great just make sure you follow the directions to a T while doing it, im no mechanic though
I put an egg white in my radiator and it smelled like something really gross was burning in my car for a whole month. Would not recommend it... Maybe cuz I forgot the black pepper?
there is a permatex product that is a copper spray treatment that I have seen people spray on headgaskets before install..... I think that I whats on this headgasket it is a fel pro gasket so it has been changed once already
Greetings from Germany. Gotta say I like your videos. They are well done and very informative. In this case I have to say that I like the fact that you always state that it is your opinion that it didn't work or that you think that it didn't work. Very professional.
Are piston return springs covered under the manufacturers warranty. I am afraid to ask since they laughed me out of the office over the muffler bearings I needed to have replaced. :)
from what I have read Stop Leak is not for blown head gaskets. They even specifically say the car needs to be able to run for 20+ minutes and not overheat. From the looks of the parts you are showing the leak was already too big to actually work. You also cant use it if the coolant is dirty. I feel this only works for MINOR leaks. I am going to try this on my 97' Ford F150 (so far no overheating issues but has some signs of a head gasket leak). If I can find this video again ill post an update.
I had a win with the new Bars Leaks Liquid copper sealant. I have a copper head gasket on a turbo engine and have been getting a small amount of water into one or two of the cylinders. Not an issue during normal driving..but start up when cold produced a lot of water from the exhaust pipe and running on three cylinders for a couple of minutes. The copper sealant has totally eliminated the leak..which has saved me a costly tear down.
I agree, for a head gasket I wouldn't take the chance. I might use it to get home. I have used bars leak in radiators when I cant find a small leak and it has worked. The one with the pellets. I have used other brands which has clogged up the radiator which had to be cleaned there after. I have never had the problem with the bars leak pellets. I have never seen build up in the hoses or inlet. Great videos.
Somebody told me about pepper. I tried it.... It worked tooo. For a coupla weeks. BUt I just kept puttin it in. I got it fixed though. BUT YES PEPPER WORKS.
If you put the tobacco from a cigarette in the radiator it get so hot the tar comes out and will only get into the open gaps were the coolant is leaking it works I have used it
I agree 100% but I do remember a time when I had a POS vehicle (and I was dirt poor) that I needed to last a few more months, stop leak bought me that few months. I then junked it and got me a new vehicle. I would never put it into a vehicle worth fixing the right way, it clogs everything eventually so it actually causes the vehicle to die earlier than it would have with a proper repair. For that reason, it is only a last resort for a vehicle that isn't worth doing a proper repair on.
As a heavy equipment operator I have seen many kinds of stop leak used. I have seen it stop leaks occasionally, but it always destroyed the radiator, 100% of the time.
I'm just looking for a quick fix to get me through the holidays. I'd planned on getting a new (used) car next month. Thing is, I had no warning at all. No engine light, not over heating. Must be a hole in my radiator. 98 Corolla with 320,000 miles. That poor car is just plain tired. I'm going to try it and see what happens.
My dad told me about owners of Ford Model Ts who would, indeed, use Quaker Oats to plug leaks. Another home remedy was a raw egg. Dad's personal preference was flax seed.
I think you need to be much more specific. Most oil coolers only have OIL running through them. In that case how does stop leak in the cooling system plug the oil cooler??? If you have stop leak in that type cooler and are getting stop leak in it, you have bigger issues. That means coolant is ALSO getting into the oil cooler..
Most diesel trucks have an oil cooler that is cooled by the coolant system. The fins on the cooler are very very small. Stop leak is designed to "clot" up and fix a leak. Therefore, the stop leak clogs up the fins in the oil cooler, making it almost impossible for coolant to pass through and cool the oil. Now you may stiill have a coolant leak and have to replace the oil cooler. on top of flushing the system out as clean as possible.
I'm sorry but that makes no sense at all. The cooling fins are designed to spread the heat to be removed over a larger area. They are on the outside of all coolers. The oil runs through tubing. My last GM diesel also had an oil cooler on it and it was oil to air. NOT oil to coolant. I am not big on diesels so I can't say more, but I don't remember seeing any oil to coolant coolers... In any case the fins are for AIR to cross over and remove heat..
Let us analyze what you have and are saying. You said NOT to use stop leak in an oil cooler as it will plug it. This is completely wrong. Oil runs through tubing inside of a coolant filled tank. This transfer of heat is used in many thousands of applications. All of which must have a flow of either a fluid or air to either cool or heat and a second fluid or air that does the cooling or heating of the first. Example: a cooling water condenser onboard a ship uses sea water, (SALT WATER) to condense steam into potable water. Your liquid cooled oil cooler uses engine coolant to cool the oil. The passages in each are separated from each other by a bulkhead or tubing walls. One never touches the other. So please explain to me how STOP LEAK added to your COOLING SYSTEM can possible plug your OIL COOLER or get into that system. If you have a leak between the two, whichever has the higher pressure will leak to the other. I really don't have a clue what you are thinking.. Most cars with automatic transmissions use this same system in the bottom or side of the radiator.. Stop leak does not plug up your transmission!!!!
In some cases a stop leak product can be useful. I stopped a leak on my 1948 Buick lever action shock absorber. I substituted Power steering fluid with stopleak for the usual shock oil or jack oil these old shocks used. It softened/swelled the the 2 leaking seals in the housing. (These old shocks were refillable).
It's just as Eric said- something to get you down the road in a pinch. If it works, it works, but it's not a fix all or permanent solution. I used a "stop leak" product on my Subaru (the good stuff, $50+ a bottle). I had a mechanic put it in the cooling system properly, and it kind of worked for a while, but now the HG's are leaking bad and it's time to get the job done. Your results may vary, but it's important to give it the best chance to work and use it correctly.
in my experience, stop leak will work on a pin hole in the radiator.. use it to get you home, then repair the radiator & completely flush your cooling system when repairs are done.. as far as head gaskets go, your only dreaming, same thing as wishful thinking.
sodium silicate..otherwise known as liquid glass cement sealer has worked 2 times for me with blown head gasket.one lasted all summer and one has been going for 4 yrs..
I used stop leak (don't remember what brand) on an old Ford Maverick with a leaky radiator years ago. It worked. I never had to replace the radiator. But it also plugged up my heater core. But in my low budget situation. It was still worth it, provided you live in an area where it doesn't get too cold in winter.
Thank you for this video! I have two jobs and I'm a single Mom dealing with an overheating 1997 Honda Civic Ex. I have put new hoses, radiator, and thermostat on. I was going to use that stuff to get me by until I can get a new water pump. Due to your knowledge I'll park it til I can fix it
Dang, Eric, you young whippersnappers don't know nothin' about nothin'! Me and Grandpa put some oatmeal in our radiator, some sawdust in our differential to quiet them gears down, and almost made it to Hogmaul Creek before she blew up!
I had Blue Devil stop leak work in a shitty Ford 3.8L v6. I did it because the car was shit, and I needed more life out of it, and shockingly it worked.
I wasn't planning on keeping it long. So it was a last ditch effort to prevent me from having to buy another beater. It actually held up really well until the car started having electrical issues, I still have the car but I am going to be rebuilding it now instead. However before I did the Blue Devil treatment I did flush the entire coolant system.
Mark Bartlett I’ve seen it work on 70’s cars. I wouldn’t dare use it on modern cars. Particularly with MLS and composite gaskets. It was more successful on the old single layer gaskets in the 70’s and before and those cooling systems had much wider passages as well whereas since the 80’s they made massive engine developments and narrow passages are common with the composite gaskets. In other words last car I’ve used it on was a 1978 gmc with a 1965 Buick 350 inside. Absolutely worked on that and the engine ran forever with it. Even ran hard and it was fine as it bonded with the single layer copper used in those. I’ve heard it used on mls and composite gaskets and usually even if they say it worked it’s short lived but maybe got a beater car a couple months. Not something I suggest anything 1980 and beyond. And if you have a pre 80 these days it’s likely not a beater so I don’t recommend it on anything myself anymore.
I like Your Videos and Ive been subscribed to Your chan for years . With that being said , Ive used Bars-leak on 2 different 6 cylinder Chevys that developed intake leaks . One was a 96 Monte Carlo , the other was a 2000 Monte Carlo . It sealed leaks almost completely. Both of the cars had over 220, 000 when I finally sold them . I was told by a mechanic , who suggested using it ,that he felt Bars-leak was the only Coolant Sealer that did NOT do any long term damage . He was right .
As a technician, I am and have always been completely against any sort of "stop leak" additive for any system on a vehicle due to the fact that my own experience has also shown similar results as in the video and they tend to be more of a prayer than a solution. I have ripped many people, customers and friends/family alike for even contemplating such repairs. However, being that times are tough and I have a cracked radiator tank on my Tahoe I had no viable choice but to test the thing I hate the most. I bought some "alumaseal" stop leak powder in a little ti be because it reminded me of a similar product produced by GM that's basically a chemical compound mixed with a wine cork style substance that seems to be fairly innocent as it just expands with heat, pressure, and of course water/coolant. Just used it and my experience is, it did immediately stop a fairly significant leak in my driver side radiator tank which amazed me. However after shutting the engine down for approx 10 minutes then re starting and applying the throttle to circulate the cooling system, the leak immediately re opened and began to spray again. Seems to repeat the same process over and again. It is however slowing and does bewilder me. And for the 3 bucks definitely was worth the entertainment factor. My idea is now that if I cam just get the stop leak to work long enough to keep the area dry, I'll them use some sandpaper and epoxy to "temporarily" seal the leak "for good" lol, until I can make the proper 200 dollar radiator replacement, repair. Long story long, I do agree with everything you said and just wanted to give my own professional experience (unfortunately in my own vehicle, but morally better that way imo). Just my 2 cents 😉. Overall, for the money... I recommend it highly in a pinch, as long as whoever doesn't add more than recommended, and for head gasket leaks..... don't bother, I cam say for a fact, this WILL NOT WORK, under a pressure sensitive condition.
outskirtscustoms Mechanics are all scum bag rip off artists. I have never met an honest one. Even good friends bend you over and give you a nice hard one up the a55 when you take your car in.
12voltvids Get the education, get the experience, do the job yourself and get back to me jackass! look up a video and see how much labor and expertise goes into it. Also, most of the time, the head gets warped and has to be milled straight or even replaced
Jared M I've done the job. Didn't like it. Went into electrical work. BUT, again, mechanics are crooks. I know this because I have done the job. Book might say this is a 6 hour job, but they get it done in 4. Do they charge you for 4 hours labour? No they charge you for 6. Same car, different repair shop different fault. CHeck engine light on. Shop says needs new plugs. 300.00 later for a plug job, and 2 hours (I waited for the repair, but of course lunch got in the way) they charged for 3 hours labour, because 2 guys worked on it for just over an hour. How it can take 2 fully qualified mechanics over an hour to change 6 plugs, that is 3 plugs per mechanic is beyond me. I was charged for 3 hours labour, plus 6 platinum tipped plugs. Just got to the driveway and the check engine light came on again. I went straight back, and this time they were telling me it was the crank sensor that needed changing. I passed, and replaced the cam sensor myself, as that part was cheap. Guess what, it fixed it. I have had more bad experiences with "qualified" mechanics, I don't know where to begin. I solved my problem this way, when my car breaks with something that I know is not a simple fix, I drive to the nearest new car dealer, and buy a new car, with a factory warranty. Problem solved, and now someone else has to deal with the problem.
I put some Barr's leak to stop some rubber seals leaks. I'm not built for mechanic work anymore I have a bad back and a previous fractured leg. It stopped the leak ran good all day with AC booming next day engine needle way up but engine is still running good from common sense i think I may have clogged some water passages up anybody have any recommendations cuz I'm on disability with no family support I need help
hi, what car and what is highest temp you get - where is the leak and how fast is it? - how much water do you add you say rubber seals - do you mean hose?
+777jonah888 it's a 2000 6 cylinder I flushed it out because i thought maybe it was clogging up the radiator or something but it stopped the leak completely it's the stop leak with the pellets in the bottom of the bottle right now I have my radiator fans hook to a switch to turn them on and off at my control do u think I should use the stop leak again or what?
james bondero you should replace the hose from rad and upon cold start with rad cap off, do you see the coolant swirl? if not, the pump may not be moving enough coolant causing high temp_ may need to replace pump also- make sure the pump is not leaking from the weep hole- if it is/was, it will get worse and may killthe engine
Use K&W head gasket repair, in a bright green bottle. It is one of the only products that miss with coolant, and I have not see it clog up anything, but I do know it really, really works.. See my reply to the original post.. Hood luck..
I personally used stop leak in an Aurora that was overheating. The day after I used it I drove from MI to southern VA with no overheating. If you follow directions is some cases it can be a god send.
I agree, head gasket sealers - a weak compound that is like a thin layer of icing - will not permanently replace the physical armor barrier that incinerates from overheating which keeps coolant from reaching the cylinder chamber. Always carry antifreeze and babying a car from overheating will save a huge headache. Plastic ended radiator blew out the bottom completely. (Never buy plastic ended radiators, the extra price for a dual core all aluminum is SO worth it.) ARP bolts are worth the extra money too esp over TTY bolts in being reusable. Sealers are like selling snake oil - they rarely will ever work and if they do they're more likely to clog the cooling system where it isn't needed.
this guy probaly makes $70-90hr of course he isnt goina recommend or say anything good for a product that people need who dont have over $1500 for a headgasket repair
That's copper coat. They might have used the stop leak but all that copper in the system in definitely copper coat. Funny in my earlier years as a mechanic I actually overheated a swapped motor in my race car that I put a MLS head gasket in with copper coat. When i overheated the motor I warped the head but thought i just blew the gasket so I tried stop leak and low and behold it didn't work. lol
I totally agree, looks like they used copper head gasket spray when that old head gasket was installed. The pour in copper stop leak looks different after you tear it down.
It did work for me. I'm a trained mechanic and used to work as such for many years, and one of my mantras was "never add anything to any fluid in the car, at very best it will not cause damage to more than your wallet". I've never used (or recommended) stuff like this to a customer, but when my own car suffered a gasket failure (or crack in the head, don't know which since the head never came off), I faced a bill of around 600 USD for parts and head resurfacing/pressure testing - plus me doing hours of work the on the car. This was not an option for a car worth nothing, so I had nothing (more than the cost of the bottle of gunk) to lose. It worked. I was in disbelief. Car has been running great for about 1500 miles now, not a drop off coolant lost. Let's see how this "repair" will stand the test of time. I'm by far not convinced yet. That said, I'm not surprised it didn't work on your customers car. That head had to be warped beyond belief. If anything, the residue on the gasket showed that the filler actually did its job - but it was too far gone. Nad, after watching your video, I'm actually more at ease since it showed that the product didn't clog anything. I've omitted the brand of the product I used intentionally, don't want anyone to think I'm a rep or something. I guess they basically all work the same, so choose the one of your liking.
I ran a car for like 6 years with KW block seal in it. I replaced the head gasket, but some time later the gasket blew because of a situation at the radiator. Resolved that, so I just put the block seal in, let it cure for a couple days, refilled with the KW,and ran it like that for years. The problem was that the repair done the right way wouldn't last, so when I added block seal and kept it there, no issues for years.
Does "Stop Leak" and "Gun-Free Zone" signs share the same potency or effectiveness? How about "Marvel Mystery Oil" and "Low capacity magazines", do they really work? LOL!
The only time I tried a chemical repair I had success with the K&W brand head gasket repair. I don't know how long it lasted because the son sold his van shortly afterwards. it was blowing exhaust into the cooling system and I watched it stop when 10 minutes of treating it. This was their first version of K&W. The directions meant eliminating coolant from system, doing the process with just water and the K&W, then draining the system completely and letting dry for 24 hours. They have a new formula that allows you to skip all that. I have not tried the new formula yet.
Eric, we love you and thanks for all your help. In this case, I respectfully repeat what you said, you are still learning. Everyone knows the best solution is to replace the gasket. Just like that cardboard that is taped on the window of your door behind you in the video. The best solution is to replace the door or put up a blind, but the cheap easy solution was to tape up cardboard. You are not so different than us stop-leak users. It worked good enough but door window professionals will strongly suggest you hire them instead.
I would add that a mechanic is not the best source to judge stop-leak. If it works then the mechanic will never know about it. You only see the times it did not work. I just tried it and it seems to be working good enough. I know it is probably temporary. If/when it fails, I will visit my mechanic.
@Ons Huis I used it twice. Once on a Civic and it worked great for a year or so before I gave the car to my daughter. She later sold it so I don't know if it is still working. On my present Saturn Vue it has been a year with no problems.
Great point! This Eric dude is not open-minded. Not everyone has 8k laying around to change a head gasket for a mechanic or even change it themselves with limited knowledge of cars.
I used Bars Leak on an old car with a leaky radiator. It stopped the leak immediately. I drove the car several more years and 100,000 miles and had no further problems with the leak, and the heater worked great.
Looking for experience with Bar Head Gasket leak stop.
I took my car to a mechanic because I was loosing coolant.
I paid him 1,500.00 to replace a leaking gasket so he claimed. 2 days later it was loose on coolant again. The mechanic wanted more money to "guess" where the leak was conning from. I put in stop leak, the leak stopped, and the car has been fine for the past 4 years.
Now I wish I had tried that in the first place. Would have saved me 1,500.00!
Gutsyndicate
Have you ever had to have any mechanical work done. You wouldn't rebuild this engine for 1500. It is a supercharged 3.6 with inter cooler, and there are so many pipes and hoses under the hood that it is impossible to get at anything.
Mechanics are all crooks. I have never met one that isn't. Every time I have ever had any work done, it is always 2 to 3 times what the quote was, and if you waffle they just give your car back with the engine in pieces.
Gutsyndicate
This wasn't a "big box" shop it was the local garage / gas station, and he came well recommended from people. We have in my town 5 small repair shops. They all charge 95.00 to do an estimate. The last time I got hosed was another local that worked out of his garage at home, and he took me to the cleaners as well, and on top of that he messed up my ABS system, and now tells me I need a 4,000 part to fix it. That was fine until he told me my brakes were worn and needed replacing. The day after getting my car back from that bandit, the ABS warning light started coming on intermittently. Took it back, he read the diag codes and said I need a ABS high pressure pump and it is 4 grand, than recommended that I trade the car in. It went to him initially because of a vibration in the front wheel, which turned out to be a bad tire. I told him to replace the tires, and he called back, while I was working, and thus couldn't talk and said the brakes were worn and needed new pads, and that would be couple of hundred more, so I OKd that. When I went to pick it up, the bill was 1800.00 for 4 tires, 4 brake pads, he said the rotors wouldn't machine so they had to be replaced.
This guy was a friend of a friend that did it, and since that time, because I bad mouthed him, my original friend has unfriended me on face book, and we haven't spoken in a year. I go in thinking 600 or 700 for a set of tires and it ends up being over a grand more. Of course he isn't admitting fu--ing up my brake system, but I don't believe in coincidences do you? It is a Hybrid car, and I think it was over his head, but some people do not admit when they don't have the training, or expertise they just go in blind. At my company you do that, and you get a day in the park or worse. Not trained for a specific job, call the boss and get someone else to do it until training is provided. But then again, I work for a utility where a screw up could leave hundreds or thousands of customers without service, so failure is not an option.
Gutsyndicate
They are all crooks. Just like veterinarians. They are crooks. They know that your dog or cat isn't going to make it the second you walk in, but they milk you 500 or 600 for tests that will just confirm that the animal is going to die.
They are all in to separate you from as much money as they can.
30 years ago I took my old car in to have the water pump replaced because I did not have the right tools to do it. The mechanic told me he would charge me 80.00 to change it, which I though was fair.
Wouldn't you know, once he got the pump off, he said the one I supplied was "different" and couldn't be used, so he had to sell me a new pump, but he would be a great guy and buy the pump I supplied back from me.So now it was 130.00 for a pump installed. Then he quoted me for a serpentine belt another, 80.00 as mine was all cracked. I said DO NOT REPLACE IT, as I can do that myself.
I go in to pick up my car, what was the bill 210.00 I questioned how come, as I told him not to replace the belt, which he didn't but came up with the excuse that my car had dealer installed air conditioning, and that took extra time. Like he didn't see that as soon as he opened the hood. He was pissed because I wouldn't buy an 80.00 belt (my buddy worked for goodyear at the time and got me one for 23.00) so he invented a new charge that just happened to be 80.00.
All crooks. I have never found an honest mechanic yet. My dealers service dept has been pretty good to me, but my car has been under warranty so I have never had a bill yet for it.
Most shops warranty their work for at least 3 months/3,000 miles; even if not, a professional shop is still likely subject to an implied warranty of workmanship/merchantability, depending on the state. Even if Stop Leak did work, it's merely a band aid solution; if you're losing coolant, mechanical repair is the only long-term fix. I would get that rectified while you still can.
Tyler Brown
The car is not on the road now, it has been in storage for the past 4 years.
Eventually it will be a project car. It is a 95 Supercoupe in excellent condition, that I have owned since new, and my son has said since he could talk that he wanted the car, so eventually it will be his car, and I really hope he takes pride in owing one of the last TBird supercoupes to roll off the line. It is a very rare color, chameleon blue.
Look up that color and you will see that they didn't make very many in that color. It is all original, right down to the am fm cassette radio and original speakers.
Will definitely be collectors car.
if the dude let the motor overheat THAT MUCH, chances are he never evr maintained the vehicle or changed the coolant - so don't blame all the gunk on stop leak.
I used K- seal on my 1998 Nissan Maxima.. it worked. I’m not being payed to promote any product,I simply care for people like me who are living check by check.I agree with this man 100% read the directions.people have asked me “ this stuff doesn’t work” I ask them to bring me the bottle and I explain to them how it should have been done, most of the time they are eager to stop the leak that they end up messing it up.
It worked on a 2004 1500 & Hummer H3 too.
I've been able to go another 30,000 without a leaky head gasket after using the kind of sealant that goes directly in your coolant (k&w nanotech in my case). Problem is, it eventually contributed to a radiator clog. If you try the stuff, make sure you flush most of it out after a few thousand miles.The metal particles eventually fall out of suspension and settle where you don't want them to be.
I usually just take the thermostat out if the car is a old school never clog since water in radiator flows
Maybe if mechanics didn't charge $1500 to $2000 for a head gasket repair AND also keep the customer's car for two weeks while the repairs are being done, then more people would probably get it fixed properly.
Most people can't afford EITHER the repair and/or the loss of their transportation for two weeks. People have to still get to work in order to put food on the table for the family
Until then, Barrs Leak and Blue Devil will continue to sell
I know, they should make minimum wage like fast food joints.
Mountain Man no they rob people like car salesmen
8 hours work
Parts
Coolant
Plus over heads
What do you think they should charge?
You have no argument.
Dealerships are the root of evil, not mum and dad businesses
It's not so much the mechanics it's the manufacturer process
For real man that the true
In my 60+ years, I have tried a few different stop leak products, and I also draw from the experience of my mechanic father. One kind - and one only - has ever worked, and that is the silver powder stuff. It's great for small hole in radiator, etc. Another huge benefit: That stuff feels slippery in the coolant and I have NEVER seen a water pump go bad with that in the coolant. Lubricates pump, maybe? Whatever the reason, it's worth the price if stop leak for a lifetime water pump.
Mmmmm thank you for the info... You dad was a mechanic, he used that and it worked ??? That's unusual.
The silver powder stuff? What is it called?
Thanks for the video, Eric. However, my dad had a '99 Caddy DeVille with the NorthStar V-8, on which the head gaskets CANNOT be replaced, due to the head mounting studs being stretched upon the initial engine build. Rather than replace the engine [111,000 miles], I used a head gasket sealing product. Following the directions TO THE LETTER, it sealed the head gaskets! I prefer to change the gaskets also, but in this instance the stuff worked as promised, could even run A/C and sit in traffic with NO temp issues. But thanks again for the opinion, Eric!!! 3:)
Your videos are great, and you are a great mechanic...however as you said yourself, you aren't a Chemical Engineer. The copper on that gasket is the remnants of copper slip or similar, a compound often used by OEMs and some mechanics on head gaskets, def. not stop leak. Stop leak blocks holes using fibers that cover the hole and that traps either copper or aluminum flakes in the fibers. a sealing agent then seals the repair. For this process to work it requires air as a catalyst. Basically the blocking process and the chemical reactions wont start internally without air. Could air bubbles in the coolant start the process internally ? I doubt it, as they are transient., but theoretically I guess in some situations where there is a lot of air in the system they might. That said, when parts get clogged up with what looks like liquid copper or aluminum is generally because like you said, people haven't followed directions properly and used way too much in a last ditch attempt to fix something stop leak wasn't indicated for, like a blown head gasket. For small radiator leaks where the leak is in a metal part , not a plastic section or hose, the success rate is higher. You can even drain the remaining stop leak out and the hole will remained sealed. Jaguars Factory manual for the V12's used in XKE's and XJ12's actually included a step to add a small bottle of stop leak as part of every coolant service. That was back in the 70's. The chemical technology of these products has most certainly improved since then. The bottom line still ties up with what you advised, it wont fix a major internal issue and it wont perform miracles on areas of the cooling system other than those its indicated for. Even then it depends on the size of the leak. Mechanical repair is always the best, but with respect, I suspect some of your observations were factually incorrect. Most of the compounds that had clogged up that cooling system were caused by silt or minerals in the water/coolant mixture, breakdown of the coolant or past mixing of different coolant types. Most people use tap water mixed with coolant, some tap water is really high in mineral content and just like a tea kettle or coffee maker, gets furred up.
+Lisa Phillips So what are you trying to say my nigga??
+Lisa Phillips your comment was so long so im just gonna agree with you lol jk
+Lisa Phillips
Would the lack of air as a catalyst be the reason the lower radiator inlet he points out at 6:21 is free of the "fuzz" that is present in the upper inlet?
+Lisa Phillips How do I say this without sounding inappopropriate? Intelligent women, such as yourself, are far too few. I'm sure the same goes for males, just for the record. Thank you for the informative comment.
+Lisa Phillips i used stop leak because i had an oil pan gasket leak in a 90's ute. it stopped leaking after a couple of weeks and never leaked another drop for around two and a half years before i sold it. i think if people are using as instructed and can prove damage to their engines the should have a good case for court
Scotty Kilmer vs/ Eric TheCarGuy rap battle, winner takes all the mechanic internet cread.
Bill Dollarmovie
It might be a tie, ya know.
Bill Dollarmovie
I just figured, I wont take advice from a guy that reminds me of Ozzy Osbourne if I have a second resource. Does that make me a bad person ...? :S
You know you've made it when you're on ERB.
The reason pppl try stop leak instead just putting on a head gasket, as simple as you made it sound, is because most ppl don’t have $1500 laying around.
Seriously.....Hell Eric why didn't I consider just replacing it?
changing a head gasket is not hard especially on a v8
Ok you can do mine on a Northstar V8
It's the labor that costs so much. Not the part. So if you know how to do it yourself then it's pretty cheap. You just have to be interested enough in learning how to do it lol. The amount I've saved being able to repair my own car was enough to spark an interest in learning how to do it. It can be kinda fun
I thought the reason for these videos was to "do it yourself" so fix the head gasket yourself.
Hi Eric, I just wanted to take a second and let you know I always go to your channel firstl and search for repair videos for subjects I need help with. You always seem genuine kind and most of all very knowledgeable. So big thank you keep it up!
ericthecarguy - you are quickly becoming my go to source when I am faced with car repairs/fixes. when faced with a leaking water pump on my wife's SUV, my local shop offered an obviously more expensive replacement or a much cheaper stop leak treatment...you helped convince me to bite the bullet and fix the part rather than take the easy (and cheaper) way out. thanks
I used it the correct way on 2 of my cars and it has been doing good for 3 years now
+Toby Blevins BS.
There are actually instances that this can work just fine. Is a blown head gasket the correct instance? Hell no. Is a minor leak from a seal or o-ring somewhere an instance this may work? Absolutely. That said it won't last forever. It is a band aid but this band aid can last much longer than you may think. Same can be said for power steering and oil leaks. As long as it's a small or low pressure side leak then it stands a chance to work. This all said if you are able to track down where the leak is coming from then you are MUCH better off actually fixing the leak rather than throwing a bottle of "wish/hope" fluid into the system.
i use it in my toyota. had a small headgasket leak.12 years now. no trouble.
How did u do it
no video=didn't happen
My son has an dodge avenger 2011, with back pressure from engine. I told him we should try Bars. AMD I have a 99 dodge 1500, with a coolant leak, coming from head gasket. If it works for his car ....I'm using it for my truck.
@@ericbowman6607 this product is exactly the thing for cars not worth fixing. exactly.
@@garonburwell9008 kind of like a last resort.
used Bar's Leaks Liquid Aluminum in my 99 dodge dakota. my water pump wasn't sealing with the hose running to the heater. Sealed it right up within a day...
I was Driving from California to Oklahoma and the water pump went out...I put a bottle of bars stop leak in the radiator never thought it would work but it did the leak stopped within about 10 minutes I topped it off and made it all the way to Oklahoma and it lasted another 2 years after that so it worked for me
Thank You for your honest appraisal of the long term effects of a possible short term fix.
I used Steel seal it and it worked for 2 years now & the car is currently still running "2011 prius 270k miles", Remove the thermostat, Flush completely!!!! all coolant out of system, Use a cooling system flush & make sure to 100% get it all out, then wait for the engine to be 100% cold like it is in the morning, add the steal seal in the radiator with "DISTILLED WATER", Run it for 30 mins with the heater on high, Let it cool completely, Run it for another 30 mins the next day, Remove all the water & let the car sit for 24 hours for the steel seal to cure "COMPLETELY" , Then replace the thermostat, Add coolant back to the car & your good to go......
I used this stuff call K-Seal for a head gasket leak and it worked. Car used to sputter real bad and leak coolant into the cylinder well. 6 months later, still no problems on my 300,000+ mile motor. Hoping to actually replace the head gasket if I have get the time to tear the motor down but I barely get vacation time.
Wow really I'm on my 300k mile and getting white smoke now I'm going to try some stop leak do u know the best one to buy?
+pk06511 The stuff I used called K-Seal came from Autozone. It's about $12 a bottle. I've also been recommended by a mechanic to use Blue Devil but that stuff is quite expensive. Just have to make sure you read the instructions carefully. Some products say you can leave it in for future protection, others you have to do multiple flushes after the sealer has worked which is the stuff I think is giving people problems.
+dekoldrick thanks
+dekoldrick You don't have to tear the motor down, pull off the intake and exhaust manifold, losen the timing belt/chain and pull it off the cam gears and pull the head, shouldn't take more than 5 or 6 hours to replace the head gasket.
+dekoldrick I'm torn between the K-Seal or Blue Devil, did you do a flush after the K-Seal worked its way through the system?
Been using it for 40+ years from flatheads to Northstars and NEVER failed.
DONE CORRECTLY it is a permanent fix.. Remove thermostat and reinstall housing. Three clear water flushes of the cooling system with the engine brought to temp each time before starting procedure. Start procedure and use ONLY straight silicate (
This makes sense. Where do you get the silicate? I assume in comes in a powder form, in a bag, or a bottle, perhaps? Is there a name brand I should be looking for and should I be looking for it at Home Depot or something like that? Quick G search didn't turn up a whole lot and I have a lady friend with a bad head gasket who would like it fixed sooner rather than later. I hope to have some good head....... gaskets this weekend. ;)
good luck to do it on an audi 2.8. one needs to remove timing belt in order to access to the thermostat
@@jlagant9 absolutely gold
The question should be rephrased,
If your head gasket blew in the middle of a desert during a zombie apocalypse, do you think stop leak would get you out of the situation.
Hey Eric, last week, I replaced the engine oil in my 1995 Hyundai excel, after not having done so for quite a long while (2.5+ years). I used a 20-50w mineral oil.
Since then, I had some issues with my car, which started to white smoke in the exhaust, and creamy white residue on the oil cap. This forum suggested it was a leak issue and to change the head gasket. I've since installed a new one myself.
The issue is still continuing, and there is still white creamy build up on the oil cap. The parts store i visit, suggested I use 'Seal-tite'/'Stop Leak' style product. Essentially the steps are to run the engine to get the thermostat to open, flush the radiator, fill it up again, and then add the product. It's meant to seal up leaks, using copper solution (or that's what i got from our conversation).
I've read some mainly negative things about using such a product, but it might be adequate to give our car more years (which is all we really need).
Question? Do i use the product? What other cheap options/alternatives do I have? How else can I diagnose the problem?
this guy makes decent ass videos. he doesn't fuck around for several minutes in the beginning like I've seen a lot of videos. he's very professional and informative. also shows proof rather than hearsay. I like this guy
hey I'm broke bro I'm going to try it lol
Did it work???
@burningfeet 57 liar
@Ons Huis can you get to to point. Ffs
Broke. Nation
I drove an old chevy six cylinder with a small crack in the block for over a hundred thousand miles with barrs leak. I had to recharge the stopleak about every six months. The down side was it rotted the hoses quicker, but it was an old chevy with only 4 hoses that were easy to get to, no big deal. I don't know about modern cars with sixteen hoses going every which where and it where it takes three months training to learn to change a fan belt.
Eric, i bought a nissan micra for 50 bucks and tested heavy duty block repair stopleak product.
I had oil and coolant mixed with together. Emptied the coolant and filled it with water + the stopleak.. Ran the car to work and back and then emptied the mixture out and replaced it with fresh coolant and oil + filter.
No more oil and coolant mixing with eachother. Temps are okay too. So my problem was fixed.
I wouldn't recommend it to a expensive car but a cheap piece of shit, yeah go ahead. It'll keep it running for a couple of months before it needs to be scrapped.
Nice
Couple months? Great
which one did you use?
Still running??
Actually Bars Block Sealer worked very well for me. I had a small head gasket leak that required adding a gallon of water after a ten mile drive and a fairly severe misfire with a check engine light from a PO301 code (cylinder 1 misfire). Adding a bottle of block seal not only eliminated the coolant loss to zero...but it also ran fantastic because it was firing on all cylinders and the check engine light never came back on. This car wasn't worth putting a new head gasket on, but for now it's running as good as ever...well worth this $10 investment.
Had an old B2000 and drove 2 hours out of town. When I got there it had drank literally all the coolant but somehow managed to not overheat but was making some interesting sounds. Filled it up and it drank it all in 5 miles. Clearly headgasket failure. I needed to get home so tried one of the more expensive stop leak products. Within 5-10 minutes of idling it stopped needing me to keep topping off the water. Drove it home and every day for a few days until I had time to replace the gasket. So I don't know about long term but it worked a miracle in my book to get me home.
You are the king of TH-cam auto DIY, but I have to admit, I've watch a lot of Scotty Kilmer videos,
it's diy aka do-it-yourself not dyi do-yourself-it......
You don't seem to be able to read very well.
lt 1 engine head gasket
NO, NO, NO, SOUTH MAIN AUTO. DR. O, IS THE KING....
Eric the car god
I had a head gasket go out in the dead of winter in a 95 civic and I didnt have a place to work on the car. I used stop leak and it sealed until summer then the headgasket went out again. Replaced head gasket, timing belt, water pump, thermostat and flushed all the coolant. So I guess you could say that in my case I had a good experience. Now that I have a shop at my house I would fix the problem not the symptom.
you have never used bar's leak head gasket fix before i have used it to repair a cracked head drove it for 2 years thinking it would be temporary fix sold it and i still see it from time to time
I've been a mechanic for 30 years and the only "mechanic in a can" I have ever seen work was STP in my 77 Civic that was burning oil so bad there was a continuous cloud behind me and it was a rust bucket so i had nothing to lose. It stopped buring oil and lasted a long time. BTW ericthecarguy is one guy on the internet that actually knows his stuff. Thanks for the videos.
It's worked for me on a 2000 Chevy Express 3500 5.7L gas engine. I used Bars Stop Leak the $30 bottle.
It also worked on my 98 Ford Taurus 3.0L gas engine. I used the Bars Stop Leak $9 bottle from Walmart the stuff that is the 2 part mixture.
After the stuff has done its job and fixed the leak I always do a complete coolant system flush to avoid potentially clogging my coolant system from using the stuff. They say you can leave it in but I don't le the idea of keeping it in there.
I'm gonna be trying head gasket sealant tomorrow on my 04 Outback. The thing has 250,000 miles. The engine doesn't even sound like it's super strong, you can def. tell it's an older engine. Is it worth putting $1000-2000 for a gasket/engine replacement when the whole thing is worth $3000? I don't think so. So I say sealant is worth using on a inexpensive car that either way you're gonna need to replace the engine. Would I use it in my Impreza with 60k? hell no. But this 11 year Outback probably has it's day's numbered. I'll probably part it out if something goes.
Did it work mate
Of course this mechanic doesn't like it, because it will put him out of business. Sealants are just options for people with limited budget. If you have a car with a book value of 3500 are you going to spend 1500 or 2000 dollars on it? You mechanic want to have more business, lowered the cost of your service by learning how to machine these darn parts!!
This wouldn't put him out of business. Stop Leak won't fix everything. Most car repairs can't be fixed with a $20 bottle of chemicals. Stop Leak doesn't work all the time, and he's probably not going to get someone bringing their car to him after Stop Leak worked.
For many people, Stop Leak works. But not everyone. And even when it does work, it shouldn't be considered to be a permanent fix. In most cases, you won't get more than a few months of driving from it.
my dad suv had hairline crack on engine head he used to fill 1 liter of water every sunday in the radiator for 5 years then i saw this product and used ever since no water need every week and first time after 6 year he used coolant in this suv . that head problem was manufactured defect but we detected after warranty
We have a similar product here in the uk. What I used on my old BMW 320i, worked as a quick repair whilst I didn't have the spare cash to do the job properly. It lasted a couple of years, but then the car started to burn a lot oil so I decided to do the job properly when I had the cash.
Stop Leak worked for me about 20 years ago when it was the most faintest minute coolant leak. But, if you have substantial leaking, it's time to replace the radiator and upper and lower coolant hoses. Your video on replacing a Honda Civic Radiator provided helpful precautions for me to follow when I replaced the radiator on my 2001 Honda Odyssey. I used a new aftermarket radiator from KOI/Federated but, I made sure that I purchased the coolant and upper and lower hoses from the Honda Dealership Parts Counter. I would never use stop leak for a leaky head gasket.
It can work, but only for a short period of time. It should really only be used in dire emergencies and is not a long term fix for radiator issues.
BornToQuill I agree with this 110%. It's not for repairing, claiming it's fixed, and wiping your hands of the situation. It's for dyer needs like being stuck at a truck stop at 1 a.m. with 5-6 hours drive to go. It's pearly a possible backup in time of (as you said) emergencies.
i like the duct tape and cardboard over your window in the background... very high tech :3
The best stop leak in a pinch I've found, is creek water. I use to buck hay in the summer time for $ and we had an old late 80s early 90s Dodge that was overheating horribly. (Going around a field all day long in 100*F weather at idle) There was a hole in the radiator, and whenever we took a break we'd fill it back up with creek water, after awhile all the crap that was in the water plugged up the hole and no issues since.
Great vid..I agree never use sealant on a headgasket problem..but leaking heater core on a FORD Freestar where the entire dash and steering column has to be removed to access the heater core for replacement..yes.. I used a product called Irontite...mixes with coolant..no need to flush and/or drain...follow instructions to the letter and run vehicle for an hour..no more core leaks...no plugged thermostat.This product is the consistency of milk with no pellets or chunks. I was very sceptical but for $20.00 it did the job. One year later still no leaks. Worth every penny. Best to you and yours.
I bought a 05 Grand Am with a suspected head gasket leak, while bringing her home it was no longer suspect, I was a rolling fog machine!
I have the same thought you do but couldn't get a gasket and ended up getting the permanent head gasket stop leak. (Claim guaranteed to work)
Followed directions to the letter after reading 3 times to be sure I'd get it right.
Result, shocked! She's running like the 3.4 heavy weight champ! No leaks and it's been 5 months.
Continue to keep inspecting and see how it goes.
Oh, and doing the TH-cam research the first step ;)
Thanks Eric, stay dirty!!
I think that car was seriously lacking regular maintenance... Stop leak can't fix that. How do you get an engine that hot anyway?? Temperature gauge anyone???
They put gauges and idiot lights on cars for a reason, but it takes a dumbass not to look at them!
The gauge and many idiot lights don't work when the coolant level is low.
Temp gauge doesnt get a engine hot lol.... My sending unit(coolant temp sensor) doesnt work on my swap since I’ve swapped it (5 months already) and I never overheated besides me forgetting to check coolant and revisor levels.
Thing is if a hose burst and all coolant leaves the engine the temp gauge wont read properly until its too late.
your supposed to take the thermostat out before you run any sealant through the system
no ones got time to read directions man
Please explain this :)
lmfao everyone seems to forget this step in the instructions like why!!!?
Then don't use it. You make time
no, I have better shit to do
I work in the automotive industry, I stopped in here to say the only and I mean only stop leak product that works is Blue Devil. No other one seems to work and almost all shops will use it and charge you for a head gasket fix.
It's expensive stuff but as Eric says it will not perform a miracle. If your head gasket has a small and I mean smaaaaaaaaaall leak it may work.
But I am completely with Eric on this. I will never use any stop leak in any of my vehicles. period. I just know some people are desperate and cannot afford to have a car out of commission for x amount of time. The more head gaskets you replace the better you get. Also being familiar with the engine is a plus.
For heavens sake look at the water jacket holes and oil passage holes in a head and think about it when you put any kind of foreign product in your car.
Putting it in and praying can lead to eventual failure of the bottom end of the engine. Seems to me a head gasket and a little of my time researching the engine and doing a days worth of work far out weighs the cost of doing a bottom end of an engine.
Then if you do have it work it usually is for a very short time and then you get to clean and clean and then clean some more to reverse what you just did. Also check out the small hole on cam shafts that little tiny hole is an oil hole to keep the cam in top order. You plug it with this crap then you can say good bye to your cam bearings.
For those people who say they don't wanna or aren't confident enough to do a head gasket. Think about the fact the engine was assembled from parts and is meant to be disassembled for maintenance. I mean how many people know how to adjust valve lash that have push rod engines? There was a time where doing that adjustment was part of maintaining the engine.
I personally am in the midst of rebuilding the bottom of an engine LN3 3.8L engine because someone decided to see how far stop leak could take them. The total distance it got was around 75 miles before a nice knock developed in the engine. Now I get to do the bottom and top end of the engine because someone decided to believe an idiot who told them stop leak worked. But I'm persistent and can't stand to see a 3800 engine die even if it is the pre-series I 3800. And then again I was kind of looking for a reason to do a modded build. Big cam, bore 40 over etc etc that kind of thing. I know it's 60 degree V6 but I wanna see what I can pull out of it. :P
Lastly just a rule of thumb if you put black pepper in and it didn't stop it then nothing else will. Time for new gaskets. And for christ sake lap the head if it is aluminum. Tolerance should be around 0.0015mm of flatness in 9 points of measurement across the head. Machining does a decent job but lapping does better. Oh and lap on either granite or glass preferably granite. No need to redo it after you do it once.
A mechanic told me that Stop Leak and Sealer does work. It doesn't seal what it's not supposed to seal. The sealing happens due to the presence of air. In other words, if the chemical detects air in an opening such as a crack, that's when the sealing starts.
I totally agree...
I think that depends on the sealer. Are you talking black pepper, alumaseal or sodium silicate?
Thanks Eric, I really enjoy your videos. I bought an 02 Chev Venture ten years ago, it had the copper gunk already in it and it didn't fix the coolant leak, so I got the van cheap enough to offset the cost of a top end overhaul. I had a few hundred miles to get it home so I picked up the aluminum flaky bottle of gunk instead, dumped it in. By the time I got home, the leak stopped. I never did reseal that top end, and still run that van every day. It still consumes maybe a quart of coolant a year, and I catch a whiff of coolant in the exhaust on cold mornings (like 30F below zero or colder cold) I think the deal breaker is that it wasn't a coolant to combustion chamber leak, it was just coolant to intake port leak. The heater isn't terribly effective either, I expect the heater core is gunked up.
Thank you for your info...
It does work, you kinda already proven that by showing us the head gasket. The gasket is saturated by the copper filler (as i call it) which is a good thing. However you also show us a NONE broken gasket but a warped one, no shit it did not work indeed.
Look up a couple of vids, it really works for most minor to even BAD head gasket issues given fact legit broken ones, not warped ones. I agree that replacing should be the way to go, you do this anyways as you have to make money of it (it's your profession) but it does work was my point.
+Michel Linschoten eric is a parts changer who does it far a living where it has to be done in a professional manner, personally i use what ever it takes and i have used it and some times it works sometimes it dont.
I saved a lot of money on just one time.
Johnnie Blevins
To be really honest with you the more videos i see of him. The more i am glad i never took any of my vehicles to the likes of him :)
May I bring my car to your shop to get fixed?
CzarPeppers
Why? Fix it yourself, most of the shit that happens to a car you can fix yourself. I recently bought a old Chevrolet s10 (see my channel it was in a very bad non drive able shape) i am far being an car expert. My neighbor and i worked on it a couple of days. And she is on the road again...we replaced pretty much the entire front end (bearing, bushings,link arm,blower motor, shocks, rag joint ectra) if i can do all that stuff why not you?
People rather spend a shit-ton of money to mechanics. While you can get a ODB2 reader for as low as 12usd and pinpoint problems pretty much yourself. All i takes is you not being lazy, and use the internet to do something productive instead of commenting on videos like this. LEARN, educate yourself and give it a shot yourself to fix the problem.
I am not saying Eric does not know his job, but i do NOT agree always with how he approaches certain projects. That is subjective..Eric and i had a discussion about this before with all respect to him and he was to me very respectful. I admire the man for the love he has for his job. Does NOT mean i have to take everything he does or says as gospel.
+Michel Linschoten lol someone was trying to pay you and ya shit all over them lol
I have used Stop leak and had success. That said I have only used on small heater core leaks and it is only a temporary fix. but long enough to get me thru the winter so I didn't have to mess the cooling system in 20 degree weather.
Most people use this stuff because they are gonna junk the car and need a few more miles off it.
I have a leaky
power steering rack. Stop leak has improved it, not fixed it . I only plan to have the car a few more months and was just trying to stop the hemorrhage. I think for a temporary measure on a car near the end of it's life, it's certainly a viable option to squeeze a few extra months out while shopping for another car.
Bought a used 2009 Ford Escape with 50k in Colombia, (South America). Almost in perfect condition, decided to replace all fluids, etc.
Coolant system was drained and flushed several times before adding new coolant, aprox. 2 weeks later a 2 small external leaks developed, after doing some research, found out that service manual recommends adding leak stop pellets at fluid change, more researched revealed that these where actually the same as Bar Leaks Tablets, more research indicated that they are mostly ginger root based !!, added 2 teaspoons of finely ground ginger root, problem solved !!, almost 2 years ago, no coolant leaks or level drop in reservoir.
Have brand new radiator under bed for a year now JIC :)
The thing is... The stuff worked exactly as advertised. It found the problem areas and it applied itself there. The stuff doesn't work miracles but for minor leaks it's a great product. I've heard plenty of stories of it working.
The guy says himself he isn't a chemical specialist. So really this is just an opinion (which he has every right to have). But this should in no way make up your kind about using stop leak.
i tried it k&b block seal on my f150 with 225000 miles for the same reason i didnt figure it was worth it, so far it appears to have worked great just make sure you follow the directions to a T while doing it, im no mechanic though
I put an egg white in my radiator and it smelled like something really gross was burning in my car for a whole month. Would not recommend it... Maybe cuz I forgot the black pepper?
You will NEVER GET RID OF THE PEPPER SMELL> NEVER NEVER NEVER!!!!!!not even ten years later!
jeff waltz Must still sealing your rad if you smell it!
I took it to a mechanic, he said it has to be an organic free run egg with fine ground black pepper.
Abraheam Rashead lol
Abraheam Rashead Definitely not corn fed as well?
there is a permatex product that is a copper spray treatment that I have seen people spray on headgaskets before install..... I think that I whats on this headgasket it is a fel pro gasket so it has been changed once already
Timothy Cote you wouldn’t want that on a composite gasket. Not at all unless you want immediate failure of new gaskets.
Greetings from Germany. Gotta say I like your videos. They are well done and very informative. In this case I have to say that I like the fact that you always state that it is your opinion that it didn't work or that you think that it didn't work. Very professional.
Seeing something for yourself isn't evidence, it's an anecdote.
agreeeeeeed
Stop leak is designed primarily for leaking radiators.
Are piston return springs covered under the manufacturers warranty. I am afraid to ask since they laughed me out of the office over the muffler bearings I needed to have replaced. :)
Ask at the dealer the quote will only be $15,000 or just a tad more, don't forget the cigarette lighter included free with $90 installation fee.
Not sure, but you need to get your blinker fluid levels checked. Muffler bearing corrosion is a symptom of depleted blinker fluid ;D
Matt Hall Really, I never knew this. Wow! Thanks for the tip.
Bahahahaha. Wait, you are kidding right?
Tucker Not Sucker! great, we hope to see you at the dealer soon, we can have your automatic windshield crack fix fluid replaced at your home though.
from what I have read Stop Leak is not for blown head gaskets. They even specifically say the car needs to be able to run for 20+ minutes and not overheat. From the looks of the parts you are showing the leak was already too big to actually work. You also cant use it if the coolant is dirty. I feel this only works for MINOR leaks. I am going to try this on my 97' Ford F150 (so far no overheating issues but has some signs of a head gasket leak). If I can find this video again ill post an update.
How did it work out for you?
Never got a chance to use it. Found that I didnt have a leak at all, just some muffler issues.
Michaell Michaud Either way, that radiator......
I had a win with the new Bars Leaks Liquid copper sealant. I have a copper head gasket on a turbo engine and have been getting a small amount of water into one or two of the cylinders. Not an issue during normal driving..but start up when cold produced a lot of water from the exhaust pipe and running on three cylinders for a couple of minutes. The copper sealant has totally eliminated the leak..which has saved me a costly tear down.
I agree, for a head gasket I wouldn't take the chance. I might use it to get home. I have used bars leak in radiators when I cant find a small leak and it has worked. The one with the pellets. I have used other brands which has clogged up the radiator which had to be cleaned there after. I have never had the problem with the bars leak pellets. I have never seen build up in the hoses or inlet. Great videos.
Somebody told me about pepper. I tried it.... It worked tooo. For a coupla weeks. BUt I just kept puttin it in. I got it fixed though. BUT YES PEPPER WORKS.
If you put the tobacco from a cigarette in the radiator it get so hot the tar comes out and will only get into the open gaps were the coolant is leaking it works I have used it
Those are all "mechanic in a bottle" fixes. Not good for your car.
... and im sure it took you quite a while before thinking of that lol. bet your well chuffed now you think youve started a new term haha.
michael wheeler Not a new term...
"mechanic in a bottle" ... lol I love it!
+cory pr0
I agree 100% but I do remember a time when I had a POS vehicle (and I was dirt poor) that I needed to last a few more months, stop leak bought me that few months. I then junked it and got me a new vehicle. I would never put it into a vehicle worth fixing the right way, it clogs everything eventually so it actually causes the vehicle to die earlier than it would have with a proper repair. For that reason, it is only a last resort for a vehicle that isn't worth doing a proper repair on.
As a heavy equipment operator I have seen many kinds of stop leak used. I have seen it stop leaks occasionally, but it always destroyed the radiator, 100% of the time.
Ive been watching your videos latly and i think im a female car nerd now
I'm just looking for a quick fix to get me through the holidays. I'd planned on getting a new (used) car next month. Thing is, I had no warning at all. No engine light, not over heating. Must be a hole in my radiator. 98 Corolla with 320,000 miles. That poor car is just plain tired. I'm going to try it and see what happens.
oatmeal is another home remedy lmfao, love ur vids btw keep it up.
My dad told me about owners of Ford Model Ts who would, indeed, use Quaker Oats to plug leaks. Another home remedy was a raw egg. Dad's personal preference was flax seed.
never use stop leak in a diesel. It will clog the oil cooler, leading to more overheating
I think you need to be much more specific. Most oil coolers only have OIL running through them. In that case how does stop leak in the cooling system plug the oil cooler??? If you have stop leak in that type cooler and are getting stop leak in it, you have bigger issues. That means coolant is ALSO getting into the oil cooler..
Most diesel trucks have an oil cooler that is cooled by the coolant system. The fins on the cooler are very very small. Stop leak is designed to "clot" up and fix a leak. Therefore, the stop leak clogs up the fins in the oil cooler, making it almost impossible for coolant to pass through and cool the oil. Now you may stiill have a coolant leak and have to replace the oil cooler. on top of flushing the system out as clean as possible.
I'm sorry but that makes no sense at all. The cooling fins are designed to spread the heat to be removed over a larger area. They are on the outside of all coolers. The oil runs through tubing. My last GM diesel also had an oil cooler on it and it was oil to air. NOT oil to coolant. I am not big on diesels so I can't say more, but I don't remember seeing any oil to coolant coolers... In any case the fins are for AIR to cross over and remove heat..
Steve1961P you are so wrong! lolol no seriously Mazda's oil cooler on my RX-7 is oil to coolant same with my buddies truck
Let us analyze what you have and are saying. You said NOT to use stop leak in an oil cooler as it will plug it. This is completely wrong. Oil runs through tubing inside of a coolant filled tank. This transfer of heat is used in many thousands of applications. All of which must have a flow of either a fluid or air to either cool or heat and a second fluid or air that does the cooling or heating of the first. Example: a cooling water condenser onboard a ship uses sea water, (SALT WATER) to condense steam into potable water. Your liquid cooled oil cooler uses engine coolant to cool the oil. The passages in each are separated from each other by a bulkhead or tubing walls. One never touches the other. So please explain to me how STOP LEAK added to your COOLING SYSTEM can possible plug your OIL COOLER or get into that system. If you have a leak between the two, whichever has the higher pressure will leak to the other. I really don't have a clue what you are thinking.. Most cars with automatic transmissions use this same system in the bottom or side of the radiator.. Stop leak does not plug up your transmission!!!!
In some cases a stop leak product can be useful. I stopped a leak on my 1948 Buick lever action shock absorber. I substituted Power steering fluid with stopleak for the usual shock oil or jack oil these old shocks used. It softened/swelled the the 2 leaking seals in the housing. (These old shocks were refillable).
It's just as Eric said- something to get you down the road in a pinch. If it works, it works, but it's not a fix all or permanent solution. I used a "stop leak" product on my Subaru (the good stuff, $50+ a bottle). I had a mechanic put it in the cooling system properly, and it kind of worked for a while, but now the HG's are leaking bad and it's time to get the job done. Your results may vary, but it's important to give it the best chance to work and use it correctly.
in my experience, stop leak will work on a pin hole in the radiator.. use it to get you home, then repair the radiator & completely flush your cooling system when repairs are done.. as far as head gaskets go, your only dreaming, same thing as wishful thinking.
Shit im glad i watched ur video thanks Eric
sodium silicate..otherwise known as liquid glass cement sealer has worked 2 times for me with blown head gasket.one lasted all summer and one has been going for 4 yrs..
Worked like a charm the one time I dumped it in a beater. Outlasted the rest of it..
Jeffrey Moore Jr the sodium silicate or the stop leak?
I used stop leak (don't remember what brand) on an old Ford Maverick with a leaky radiator years ago. It worked. I never had to replace the radiator. But it also plugged up my heater core. But in my low budget situation. It was still worth it, provided you live in an area where it doesn't get too cold in winter.
Thank you for this video! I have two jobs and I'm a single Mom dealing with an overheating 1997 Honda Civic Ex. I have put new hoses, radiator, and thermostat on. I was going to use that stuff to get me by until I can get a new water pump. Due to your knowledge I'll park it til I can fix it
Been 2 years..did u ever fix it
Dang, Eric, you young whippersnappers don't know nothin' about nothin'! Me and Grandpa put some oatmeal in our radiator, some sawdust in our differential to quiet them gears down, and almost made it to Hogmaul Creek before she blew up!
Loincourt Lestat
HAHAHAHA.
Lmfao
🤚🤘
I had Blue Devil stop leak work in a shitty Ford 3.8L v6. I did it because the car was shit, and I needed more life out of it, and shockingly it worked.
Hi
Do you recommend me to use it? I have the same your problem.
I wasn't planning on keeping it long. So it was a last ditch effort to prevent me from having to buy another beater. It actually held up really well until the car started having electrical issues, I still have the car but I am going to be rebuilding it now instead. However before I did the Blue Devil treatment I did flush the entire coolant system.
Stop leak, it's always your uncle, or your uncle's friends, daughter-in-law that it worked on. lol.
Mark Bartlett I’ve seen it work on 70’s cars. I wouldn’t dare use it on modern cars. Particularly with MLS and composite gaskets. It was more successful on the old single layer gaskets in the 70’s and before and those cooling systems had much wider passages as well whereas since the 80’s they made massive engine developments and narrow passages are common with the composite gaskets. In other words last car I’ve used it on was a 1978 gmc with a 1965 Buick 350 inside. Absolutely worked on that and the engine ran forever with it. Even ran hard and it was fine as it bonded with the single layer copper used in those. I’ve heard it used on mls and composite gaskets and usually even if they say it worked it’s short lived but maybe got a beater car a couple months. Not something I suggest anything 1980 and beyond. And if you have a pre 80 these days it’s likely not a beater so I don’t recommend it on anything myself anymore.
I like Your Videos and Ive been subscribed to Your chan for years . With that being said , Ive used Bars-leak on 2 different 6 cylinder Chevys that developed intake leaks .
One was a 96 Monte Carlo , the other was a 2000 Monte Carlo .
It sealed leaks almost completely.
Both of the cars had over 220, 000 when I finally sold them .
I was told by a mechanic , who suggested using it ,that he felt Bars-leak was the only Coolant Sealer that did NOT do any long term damage .
He was right .
As a technician, I am and have always been completely against any sort of "stop leak" additive for any system on a vehicle due to the fact that my own experience has also shown similar results as in the video and they tend to be more of a prayer than a solution. I have ripped many people, customers and friends/family alike for even contemplating such repairs. However, being that times are tough and I have a cracked radiator tank on my Tahoe I had no viable choice but to test the thing I hate the most. I bought some "alumaseal" stop leak powder in a little ti be because it reminded me of a similar product produced by GM that's basically a chemical compound mixed with a wine cork style substance that seems to be fairly innocent as it just expands with heat, pressure, and of course water/coolant. Just used it and my experience is, it did immediately stop a fairly significant leak in my driver side radiator tank which amazed me. However after shutting the engine down for approx 10 minutes then re starting and applying the throttle to circulate the cooling system, the leak immediately re opened and began to spray again. Seems to repeat the same process over and again. It is however slowing and does bewilder me. And for the 3 bucks definitely was worth the entertainment factor. My idea is now that if I cam just get the stop leak to work long enough to keep the area dry, I'll them use some sandpaper and epoxy to "temporarily" seal the leak "for good" lol, until I can make the proper 200 dollar radiator replacement, repair. Long story long, I do agree with everything you said and just wanted to give my own professional experience (unfortunately in my own vehicle, but morally better that way imo). Just my 2 cents 😉. Overall, for the money... I recommend it highly in a pinch, as long as whoever doesn't add more than recommended, and for head gasket leaks..... don't bother, I cam say for a fact, this WILL NOT WORK, under a pressure sensitive condition.
Love the channel. Great videos and great approach. However, the expression is, "as I say" or "as I have said" not "like I said."
Wow your fucking dull
how the fuck is a thin piece of metal so damn expensive.........does not seem worth the price
The thin piece of metal isn't that expensive, what is expensive is the labor to tear the engine apart to get to it and putting it all back together.
I know what you mean the one I bought for my honda was $60 dollars only because I pulled the intake, head, and header all together
outskirtscustoms
Mechanics are all scum bag rip off artists. I have never met an honest one. Even good friends bend you over and give you a nice hard one up the a55 when you take your car in.
12voltvids Get the education, get the experience, do the job yourself and get back to me jackass! look up a video and see how much labor and expertise goes into it. Also, most of the time, the head gets warped and has to be milled straight or even replaced
Jared M
I've done the job. Didn't like it. Went into electrical work.
BUT, again, mechanics are crooks. I know this because I have done the job.
Book might say this is a 6 hour job, but they get it done in 4. Do they charge you for 4 hours labour? No they charge you for 6.
Same car, different repair shop different fault. CHeck engine light on.
Shop says needs new plugs. 300.00 later for a plug job, and 2 hours (I waited for the repair, but of course lunch got in the way) they charged for 3 hours labour, because 2 guys worked on it for just over an hour. How it can take 2 fully qualified mechanics over an hour to change 6 plugs, that is 3 plugs per mechanic is beyond me.
I was charged for 3 hours labour, plus 6 platinum tipped plugs.
Just got to the driveway and the check engine light came on again.
I went straight back, and this time they were telling me it was the crank sensor that needed changing. I passed, and replaced the cam sensor myself, as that part was cheap. Guess what, it fixed it.
I have had more bad experiences with "qualified" mechanics, I don't know where to begin. I solved my problem this way, when my car breaks with something that I know is not a simple fix, I drive to the nearest new car dealer, and buy a new car, with a factory warranty. Problem solved, and now someone else has to deal with the problem.
I put some Barr's leak to stop some rubber seals leaks. I'm not built for mechanic work anymore I have a bad back and a previous fractured leg. It stopped the leak ran good all day with AC booming
next day engine needle way up but engine is still running good from common sense i think I may have clogged some water passages up
anybody have any recommendations
cuz I'm on disability with no family support I need help
hi, what car and what is highest temp you get - where is the leak and how fast is it? - how much water do you add
you say rubber seals - do you mean hose?
+777jonah888 it's a 2000 6 cylinder I flushed it out because i thought maybe it was clogging up the radiator or something but it stopped the leak completely it's the stop leak with the pellets in the bottom of the bottle right now I have my radiator fans hook to a switch to turn them on and off at my control do u think I should use the stop leak again or what?
+777jonah888 it's a Dodge Caravan it leaking at the water pump seal and where it comes in the motor from the radiator with a rubber seal
james bondero
you should replace the hose from rad and upon cold start with rad cap off, do you see the coolant swirl? if not, the pump may not be moving enough coolant causing high temp_ may need to replace pump also- make sure the pump is not leaking from the weep hole- if it is/was, it will get worse and may killthe engine
Use K&W head gasket repair, in a bright green bottle. It is one of the only products that miss with coolant, and I have not see it clog up anything, but I do know it really, really works.. See my reply to the original post.. Hood luck..
I personally used stop leak in an Aurora that was overheating. The day after I used it I drove from MI to southern VA with no overheating. If you follow directions is some cases it can be a god send.
I agree, head gasket sealers - a weak compound that is like a thin layer of icing - will not permanently replace the physical armor barrier that incinerates from overheating which keeps coolant from reaching the cylinder chamber. Always carry antifreeze and babying a car from overheating will save a huge headache. Plastic ended radiator blew out the bottom completely. (Never buy plastic ended radiators, the extra price for a dual core all aluminum is SO worth it.) ARP bolts are worth the extra money too esp over TTY bolts in being reusable. Sealers are like selling snake oil - they rarely will ever work and if they do they're more likely to clog the cooling system where it isn't needed.
have you tried using 1 piece of duct tape the horizontal way on the door window?
this guy probaly makes $70-90hr of course he isnt goina recommend or say anything good for a product that people need who dont have over $1500 for a headgasket repair
That's copper coat. They might have used the stop leak but all that copper in the system in definitely copper coat. Funny in my earlier years as a mechanic I actually overheated a swapped motor in my race car that I put a MLS head gasket in with copper coat. When i overheated the motor I warped the head but thought i just blew the gasket so I tried stop leak and low and behold it didn't work. lol
This comment was suppose to post on your stop leak video. Stupid auto play!
I totally agree, looks like they used copper head gasket spray when that old head gasket was installed. The pour in copper stop leak looks different after you tear it down.
It did work for me. I'm a trained mechanic and used to work as such for many years, and one of my mantras was "never add anything to any fluid in the car, at very best it will not cause damage to more than your wallet". I've never used (or recommended) stuff like this to a customer, but when my own car suffered a gasket failure (or crack in the head, don't know which since the head never came off), I faced a bill of around 600 USD for parts and head resurfacing/pressure testing - plus me doing hours of work the on the car.
This was not an option for a car worth nothing, so I had nothing (more than the cost of the bottle of gunk) to lose. It worked. I was in disbelief. Car has been running great for about 1500 miles now, not a drop off coolant lost. Let's see how this "repair" will stand the test of time. I'm by far not convinced yet.
That said, I'm not surprised it didn't work on your customers car. That head had to be warped beyond belief. If anything, the residue on the gasket showed that the filler actually did its job - but it was too far gone. Nad, after watching your video, I'm actually more at ease since it showed that the product didn't clog anything.
I've omitted the brand of the product I used intentionally, don't want anyone to think I'm a rep or something. I guess they basically all work the same, so choose the one of your liking.
I ran a car for like 6 years with KW block seal in it. I replaced the head gasket, but some time later the gasket blew because of a situation at the radiator. Resolved that, so I just put the block seal in, let it cure for a couple days, refilled with the KW,and ran it like that for years. The problem was that the repair done the right way wouldn't last, so when I added block seal and kept it there, no issues for years.
Does "Stop Leak" and "Gun-Free Zone" signs share the same potency or effectiveness? How about "Marvel Mystery Oil" and "Low capacity magazines", do they really work? LOL!
Stop leak works if used properly....
Dont trust a guy who cover his front door window with paper and duktape....
The only time I tried a chemical repair I had success with the K&W brand head gasket repair. I don't know how long it lasted because the son sold his van shortly afterwards. it was blowing exhaust into the cooling system and I watched it stop when 10 minutes of treating it. This was their first version of K&W. The directions meant eliminating coolant from system, doing the process with just water and the K&W, then draining the system completely and letting dry for 24 hours. They have a new formula that allows you to skip all that. I have not tried the new formula yet.
worked long enough for me to trade the car in on a new one...
+buffcleb karma
Dharma
what if a parent got that car thinking it was a good car and you got them stranded with there children in the car
+leonard bullhock It's the circle of life.
+buffcleb i think i bought your car thanks man