Whenever I use a silicon gasket 'goop' I will torque the item down at about 50% of the recommended torque specs and allow the 'goop' to setup then return to finish the torque to the spec. This was, if the 'goop' had any voids, the final torquing should close the voids and avaoid potential sweating or outright leaks. Just what I do.
7:57 The takeaway here is people are impatient and rushing the jobs. Nothing you're doing here is anything I haven't done on stat replacements for engines much newer. Same trick when I did the stat in my '85 F150's 4.9L I6, when I did the stat in my mom's '03 Explorer 4.0L. Taking one's time and doing it right keeps parts from breaking. That explorer, by the by, has a fucking PLASTIC water neck. PLASTIC. You think it's easy to crack these old 8BA water necks.....
Do you have an email I wanted to send you a pic of my 8 BA engine and ask what a certain plug is for? There is an identical one on the other side of the engine.. it may be a temperature gauge line Except my line is missing? Thanks
Thanks for sharing this. I run the 180° thermostats with a new aluminum radiator and an electric puller fan. Seems to run just fine that way, summer temps don't seem to faze it at all. The 160° setup seems like it would be overwhelmed at some point on a hot humid day running at higher speeds or engine loads. When the ambient air temps get within 50 or 60 degrees of coolant temps, that's a bad spread.
Cool trick about the bypass holes I have a 8N Ford tractor with a flat head and I agree that it’s better to put in a 160 F rather than a 180 F especially if I am plowing in the fall and it happens to be a + 30 C day and in winter if it’s necessary for her to run a little hotter I just put a winter front over the grill and she runs nice you can see the thermostat cycle perfectly on the Temperature gauge.
great vid. I assume this trick would work on water pumps too.
What size are the holes that you drilled and are the holes recommended for the 6 cylinder flathead too?
Good question
What oil do you run in your flat head Non-detergent or conventional/detergent. weight
@@TatiMags they need zinc and a fairly heavy weight. Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel oil has both of those.
What size are the hole? Thanks for the video.
Thought the same thing. Drill holes but what size! So much silicon so the gasket is worthless the way this seems to show.
Whenever I use a silicon gasket 'goop' I will torque the item down at about 50% of the recommended torque specs and allow the 'goop' to setup then return to finish the torque to the spec. This was, if the 'goop' had any voids, the final torquing should close the voids and avaoid potential sweating or outright leaks. Just what I do.
Another great instruction video! Thank you very kindly.
7:57 The takeaway here is people are impatient and rushing the jobs. Nothing you're doing here is anything I haven't done on stat replacements for engines much newer. Same trick when I did the stat in my '85 F150's 4.9L I6, when I did the stat in my mom's '03 Explorer 4.0L. Taking one's time and doing it right keeps parts from breaking.
That explorer, by the by, has a fucking PLASTIC water neck. PLASTIC. You think it's easy to crack these old 8BA water necks.....
Do you have an email I wanted to send you a pic of my 8 BA engine and ask what a certain plug is for?
There is an identical one on the other side of the engine.. it may be a temperature gauge line
Except my line is missing? Thanks
Thanks for sharing this. I run the 180° thermostats with a new aluminum radiator and an electric puller fan. Seems to run just fine that way, summer temps don't seem to faze it at all. The 160° setup seems like it would be overwhelmed at some point on a hot humid day running at higher speeds or engine loads. When the ambient air temps get within 50 or 60 degrees of coolant temps, that's a bad spread.
Will the black thermostat permatex work the same for the areas where you put the silicone?
Cool trick about the bypass holes I have a 8N Ford tractor with a flat head and I agree that it’s better to put in a 160 F rather than a 180 F especially if I am plowing in the fall and it happens to be a + 30 C day and in winter if it’s necessary for her to run a little hotter I just put a winter front over the grill and she runs nice you can see the thermostat cycle perfectly on the Temperature gauge.
Thank you great video.
Thank you for posting....great video.
I LIKE THE IDEA
great tip , thanks
What size are the holes you drilled in the thermostat?
3/16"
160° even in north east winter?
It's easier to block off the grill to reduce cooling than increase cooling on a hotter stat.