Thank you. This saved me hundreds. My local furnace guy charged me 600 bucks to replace the water pressur reducer valve. Then they failed to check the pressure check purge valve, so I had to have them come back the next day and it was another 600 bucks and service call fees. Then 2 days later this part was acting up. I wasnt gonna get suckered by them again.
Thank you Steve. By using one of your videos, I was able to walk my son through finding and fixing a no start situation the other day, I couldn’t get over to do it with him. He’s a great mechanic, but boilers are new to him. Warm house and grandchildren, thank you.
Oldie but goodie! Thanks Steve for teaching me through the years, saving me money, watching how you use tools, many words of wisdom! Any videos on setting the fan limit switch on a Miller Oil Furnace?
I have an old 1972 miller mobile home kerosene furnace and thanks to your videos I was able so save much needed money and service it myself. You're a great man, keep up the good work!
GodBless you Steve For the Video's...I followed and did every step you showed and Cleaned burner top to bottom. Installed new filters and bled the oil line. I also Installed new triple aquastat relay, Now all 3 Zones run Heat. New oil nozzle and cleaned and positioned the electrodes just like you showed..The Furnace runs Great and not even a puff of smoke on start up! TYVM Great step by Step Video!
steven hi from argentina, i changed my kitchen faucet for a new one today, watching your videos came really handy for some stuff since i had to grind the old faucet off. so i wanted to thank you for showing the entire proccess of your work every time.
Just a tip you can use carb choke cleaner to clean the oil filters works great. And always change the oil pump gasket if you pull it. Save yourself a headache 🤕
Good job, Steven Spent my morning fixing toilet with quiet fill Korky, and parts house run for limit on dryer, fuse link and clean lint collector box to roof.All back to normal operation..
Just fixed a dryer for someone with the same issues. Thermal fuse open. PACKED with lint. High limit should always be changed when thermal opens. ( whirlpool recommends it, as well as other manufacturers) Was yours full of lint too?
Love your vids my man, good way to bounce some ideas. Pump filter I like to spray with carb cleaner from inside to get all those particles out, I also spray down both sides of the pump and let it dry for a min. Been doing same on my own pump for years. Keeps it nice and clean, good assurance nothing get plugged up down the line. But I also spray down the tank filter container w/ carb/ brake cleaner to get all the old oil and rust from the tank out of there.
I do the same. Next season the screen at the nozzle will definitely have some bypassed muck that got pushed through with the brush. New pump strainers are a dollar. Every year every job the customer gets new filter, strainer and nozzle. brake cleaner spray down, electrode set, disassembly brush out and vac and safety confirmation. Then a combustion analysis with Testo 320 currently calibrated and a printout. Before and after vac out pics sent to customers phone. Keeps them informed in the loop and happy. Good job as always Steve.
Good work as always Steve. Surprised you don't have a oil nozzle wrench. Usually the electrodes are removed and cleaned when the nozzle is changed. So not a big deal. You run a separate oil tool kit bag box, right? So you don't have to smell oil all day long on your main tool bag. Used to do some oil service for 4 years on and off. I don't miss doing it all!
Love your videos, think it's almost time to put a new thermocouple in my furnace, cleaned it but still not starting every time. It's 15 years old, so guessing it's about worn out. Otherwise furnace works like it's brand new. Anyone that wants a workhorse of a furnace, I recommend Armstrong Air. Just don't get the central air, it died many years ago.
If you press the reset button more than once as Steve has explained in the past, you are dumping fuel into the combustion chamber. Once you fix the spark problem it will fire and cause the blow back puff until excess fuel is burned off…..
They are the cheapest part of a trouble or repeat call, if I could NOT clean um up new WHITE and I found no other cause, it’s the least expensive (ie motor, controls etc) and many times the culprit. I used many porcelains over 35 years.......call back % the least in the outfit.........
Are you switching to two line system and Garber filters? My boss switched 10 years ago. I see one or two old style filters a year. I keep two Garber setups in my service van and replace them.
Isnt that draft adj. on the side of the oil burner supposed to match the nozzle?? you can see at 14:30 in the tan area its set for 9 ish..... im not a service tech.... just curious..
A 5 to 8 sec delay on fire is fine, only if it has a solenoid valve above the oil pump. It waits for oil pump to come up to pressure before starting. Then you should see the green light.
Isn't the cause of explosive start up excess unburned oil in the combustion chamber caused by the oil not shutting off cleanly when shut down? So how would any of these regular issues, filters, nozzle, etc. cause that?
It can be oil that is sprayed into the chamber before the igniters have a chance to fire it. Usually caused by the 2 being 2 far from the nozzle end. Any of the following, igniters 2 high, extend 2 far past nozzle, 2 far apart or even 2 close together not allowing enough spark that's produced by the transformer.
i did everything you did except change the filters - well now the filters are changed and seem to run alright until the next morning - still had a smaller explosion....what else could it be ?
Hey bro my beckets causing a puff of white smoke when firing and loud noise then it smells like exhaust I’ve checked a few things pipes clean, good flow, nozzles clean any ideas?
Am I correct in thinking that the clean-outs are on the right side of the boiler .... against the wall? Boy, are they ever screwed when it comes time for a cleaning!
Lots of great infobut WHAT CAUSED THE EXPLOSIVE STARTS before you tuned it..i replaced pump adjusted electrodes new nozzle set ..all fittings snug new gaskets on filter can starts right up with a CLANK..runs 10 seconds and stops 15 seconds and starts with a explosive fuel line clanking bang..checked for fuel lines etc leaking and fuel line check valve checked ok. Like it loses prime. but cant find where.. does igniting stay on or only intill fire starts ..ive dont 90%my own furnace survice/cleaning last 40 yrs .this problem is a first. becket pump 2450 rpm 1.50B nozzle filter all new.???? Cant afford $110hr techs plus travel..learned to service from family friends Heating Service Guidence .good video sir thks
Depending on the pump if it has no delay valve it’s not a clean cut pump but some pumps you have to adjust oil pressure out of the box they are usually 100 psi you can look at the sides of the burner if you don’t see a sticker that says set pump to x psi then that’s not your issue but if you see that sticker and it said 130 or whatever then you have to adjust the pump pressure
Hello, good video. I have new Beckett AFG, makes same noise on start up. Installer says all new burners sound this way. Should it be a smooth ignition even on new models?
If its making a bang noise on start up ? Like a bunch of Fuels being ignited at once ? NO it shouldn't. The igniters need adjustment. Probably too far apart and letting oil build up in the chamber before it ignites.
You can buy a Beckett igniter tip setter. It's orange in color and slips over the end of the Nozzle assembly. It let's you set the igniters the right distance from the Nozzle and the igniter assembly the proper distance from the burn chamber. Easy to use. Even I could use it.. lol.. Nasgauge part number T100-202. I've had it a few years and can't remember what I paid for it. Was cheaper than a service call, which he didn't fix the problem. It stopped the bang, more heat and no black smoke or oil smell coming out the chimney.
While you gave it opened up I'd clean the cad eye or as some call it "the cats eye". It recognizes the flame and if there isn't one or it doesn't see on it will shut the burner off. By then it's run 30-45 seconds, depending on control, and shot fuel in the chamber that length of time. If you hit the red button to restart it the igniters will ignite the fumes in the chamber and boom. Don't hit that red button more than once if it doesn't fire up. If you do it will go boom and the excess fuel in the chamber will burn off creating more heat than the chamber may be able to handle. Also if you have a weak transformer it may not give the necessary spark to ignite the fuel. Let's start with the cheaper and easier fix first and that's adjustment of the igniters.
bad pumps, don't pump to set pressure, make noise, or will have afterfire as in this video. when off, it should drop to 80% of run pressure and hold that pressure, with no afterfire.
Aptly named a "service loop". Allows the door on the front of the boiler to be opened for cleaning the chamber with out having to disconnect the oil line from the burner.
Good video, I didn't realize there was another filter in the fuel pump. Not sure how you do service with a button down shirt! I look like a caveman afterwards lol.. but then again I am not a professional.
Riello oil boiler fires up but only runs for 1-2 secs. Fires up again and this second attempt everything runs fine. Can't figure out why the first attempt fails, so to speak.
Your so called cleaning of the pump filter seems to be rather crude. You never cleaned it with brake cleaner or blew out with air after brushing, easily could have particles on inside to directly plug nozzle?
' Don't be a cheap skate, no big deal !' ...renew the pump gasket and filter when your at it ......as tight as 2 coats of paint as ye say Steven ? . Lift your game son ! ....raise the quality standards,' my sister says she likes a man who smells of diesel ' Keep smiling and stop stroking the Old dolls , that's for wee Molly ' The Licker' . Keep up the good work Mr. Supprano . I hope ye can take a bit of humor ...... On your knees Frankie..... Not in the face Tony...Not in the face ...For you Frankie....Not in The Face, ye low down dirty cockroach ......Thanks Tony ...God rest my soul I'll never snitch again....Your damn right Frankie and that's why I wear gloves, to deal with filthy Leakers ...you'll never Be A Leaker Again! ......... The End ... more episodes next week for Mama and Molly and Stevo
Well done. Straight forward, he told you only what you needed to know, no extra talking. Called out the tools and procedures perfectly.
Thank you. This saved me hundreds.
My local furnace guy charged me 600 bucks to replace the water pressur reducer valve. Then they failed to check the pressure check purge valve, so I had to have them come back the next day and it was another 600 bucks and service call fees. Then 2 days later this part was acting up.
I wasnt gonna get suckered by them again.
Thank you Steve. By using one of your videos, I was able to walk my son through finding and fixing a no start situation the other day, I couldn’t get over to do it with him. He’s a great mechanic, but boilers are new to him. Warm house and grandchildren, thank you.
Oldie but goodie! Thanks Steve for teaching me through the years, saving me money, watching how you use tools, many words of wisdom! Any videos on setting the fan limit switch on a Miller Oil Furnace?
I have an old 1972 miller mobile home kerosene furnace and thanks to your videos I was able so save much needed money and service it myself. You're a great man, keep up the good work!
Shouldn't be doing that yourself chances are that things cracked by now and unsafe.
@@andyc8225 I have one from 1981….changed the burner, combustion chamber, no CO2 leaks and I service it every year …..
GodBless you Steve For the Video's...I followed and did every step you showed and Cleaned burner top to bottom. Installed new filters and bled the oil line. I also Installed new triple aquastat relay, Now all 3 Zones run Heat. New oil nozzle and cleaned and positioned the electrodes just like you showed..The Furnace runs Great and not even a puff of smoke on start up! TYVM Great step by Step Video!
steven hi from argentina, i changed my kitchen faucet for a new one today, watching your videos came really handy for some stuff since i had to grind the old faucet off. so i wanted to thank you for showing the entire proccess of your work every time.
Thanks Steve for taking the time to put these videos out there to help
Others , you are a master
Just a tip you can use carb choke cleaner to clean the oil filters works great. And always change the oil pump gasket if you pull it. Save yourself a headache 🤕
Im just going to throw this out there: He seems to move and operate like a Master Plumber !
great video Steve. Thank you for helping make every day a school day.
Good job, Steven
Spent my morning fixing toilet with quiet fill Korky, and parts house run for limit on dryer, fuse link and clean lint collector box to roof.All back to normal operation..
Just fixed a dryer for someone with the same issues. Thermal fuse open. PACKED with lint. High limit should always be changed when thermal opens. ( whirlpool recommends it, as well as other manufacturers) Was yours full of lint too?
Maximum choochin, no explosion 💥 or delayed ignition. Great video Steve. You've got a new and happy customer I'm sure.
Steve Lav always brings the heat in the Commonwealth.
Steve you are a rocket man great job!!
it nothing compared to an m1000 turbo 2 stroke or detroit 2 stroke
Thank you for posting this! I did this exact troubleshooting last week. Ended up being the pump filter was plugged. Lot bigger flame now.
another great job well done Steve a clean site and good lighting you have to get a good one once in awhile
Nice one, Steven. That filter base looked pretty nasty!
Great job, removing the carbon from the ignitor insulators prevents voltage leakage to ground, correct? Thanks for the teaching time, your the best.
Love your vids my man, good way to bounce some ideas. Pump filter I like to spray with carb cleaner from inside to get all those particles out, I also spray down both sides of the pump and let it dry for a min. Been doing same on my own pump for years. Keeps it nice and clean, good assurance nothing get plugged up down the line. But I also spray down the tank filter container w/ carb/ brake cleaner to get all the old oil and rust from the tank out of there.
I do the same. Next season the screen at the nozzle will definitely have some bypassed muck that got pushed through with the brush. New pump strainers are a dollar. Every year every job the customer gets new filter, strainer and nozzle. brake cleaner spray down, electrode set, disassembly brush out and vac and safety confirmation. Then a combustion analysis with Testo 320 currently calibrated and a printout. Before and after vac out pics sent to customers phone. Keeps them informed in the loop and happy. Good job as always Steve.
@@deanrusso2855 how much do you charge for all of that and what state you in?
New subscriber here. Love your videos. It's always enjoyable watching a professional at work.
Good work as always Steve. Surprised you don't have a oil nozzle wrench. Usually the electrodes are removed and cleaned when the nozzle is changed. So not a big deal. You run a separate oil tool kit bag box, right? So you don't have to smell oil all day long on your main tool bag. Used to do some oil service for 4 years on and off. I don't miss doing it all!
I'm sure the customers appreciate that as well, not smelling like oil when your servicing their residential drinking water.
Love your videos, think it's almost time to put a new thermocouple in my furnace, cleaned it but still not starting every time. It's 15 years old, so guessing it's about worn out. Otherwise furnace works like it's brand new. Anyone that wants a workhorse of a furnace, I recommend Armstrong Air. Just don't get the central air, it died many years ago.
That looked like a nice install. Steve must've done it....
You are truly a great mechanic/technician , learned so much from your videos. " Shes a licker"
So what was causing the explosion noise, and did it stop after you did your work? Love your videos, by the way.
Yup intermittemt fire..normally caused by the elctrodes being off with a clogging nozzle
Did a thorough job on tuneup of burner!!
just before you said "see how high them electrodes are" I thought to myself 'geez those electrodes are way too high'
lol
Always nice to see a real pro!
Great job and video like always ( Steven )
In the Industrial Gas Turbine world, we called that a 'seismic lightoff'! ;)
delicately positions igniters... then suddenly slams whole assembly back in hitting everything possible lmao
That's the funniest thing I've seen in a long time!!!! 11:50 to 13:50
its like a 2 stroke sled motor
kick start it like my yamaha yz250
a m1000 2 stroke arcticat delivers far mo explosion than this thing can every have, hell my OMC rotary wankle can our do it many times over.
Excellent video smart guy
Excellent presentation with excellent explanations. Thank You!
Hi Steve, Would a weak Igniter cause a Bang at start, or what else would it be, The burner sounds great when running.
If you press the reset button more than once as Steve has explained in the past, you are dumping fuel into the combustion chamber. Once you fix the spark problem it will fire and cause the blow back puff until excess fuel is burned off…..
Thank you💪😁👍
Great video and you make it look simple and easy.
Nice work Steve what is the distance between the tips on the electrodes
A Beckett z gauge will give you the correct position of electrodes
What do you do to recycle the oil that you get when you change the filter and when you breathing the oil line?, thank you, great video
throw it out
Why not use a z-gauge when setting the electrodes?
He done many he does it in his sleep!
1/8 1/8 1/8... Pretty common..
Restivo love the way you work
Great job Steven!
hell of a job steve grt job on to t next one
I thought you were gonna do some laundry there for a minute... what service that would've been!
Steve when is it determined when you should change the ceramic igniters, never seen you exchange for new ones. ??? not that expensive
kevin kellner when they are cracked you change them
They are the cheapest part of a trouble or repeat call, if I could NOT clean um up new WHITE and I found no other cause, it’s the least expensive (ie motor, controls etc) and many times the culprit. I used many porcelains over 35 years.......call back % the least in the outfit.........
Great job, the tank filter was nasty!
Are you switching to two line system and Garber filters? My boss switched 10 years ago. I see one or two old style filters a year. I keep two Garber setups in my service van and replace them.
Do you ever check the pump pressure?
Isnt that draft adj. on the side of the oil burner supposed to match the nozzle?? you can see at 14:30 in the tan area its set for 9 ish..... im not a service tech.... just curious..
Love your videos Steve.
What type of oil do these use?
Was that a becket or a carlon
Good work Steve. What nozzle came out of there?
What would be the main reason to not use a spin on filter rather than this cartridge style?
do you do a comb test only on pm and new install
Love your Videos Steve!!
What kind tool or meter do u used for check the draft
A manometer
I have a Becket too. It delays 5 seconds every time. Looks like a newer model. The green lED goes on when it does fire. Does this seem normal to you?
A 5 to 8 sec delay on fire is fine, only if it has a solenoid valve above the oil pump. It waits for oil pump to come up to pressure before starting. Then you should see the green light.
Isn't the cause of explosive start up excess unburned oil in the combustion chamber caused by the oil not shutting off cleanly when shut down? So how would any of these regular issues, filters, nozzle, etc. cause that?
It can be oil that is sprayed into the chamber before the igniters have a chance to fire it. Usually caused by the 2 being 2 far from the nozzle end. Any of the following, igniters 2 high, extend 2 far past nozzle, 2 far apart or even 2 close together not allowing enough spark that's produced by the transformer.
Curious as to why you're using a 70 w a beckett they call for 80s mostly?
High Steve is the copper oil line under the concrete slab
Great job Steve.
i did everything you did except change the filters - well now the filters are changed and seem to run alright until the next morning - still had a smaller explosion....what else could it be ?
and continues to explode
Great Fix Steve..
Why do some burners have pointy electrodes and others have blunt tips?
Hey bro my beckets causing a puff of white smoke when firing and loud noise then it smells like exhaust I’ve checked a few things pipes clean, good flow, nozzles clean any ideas?
Am I correct in thinking that the clean-outs are on the right side of the boiler .... against the wall?
Boy, are they ever screwed when it comes time for a cleaning!
I wish you were station on Long Island. Great Job. Anybody that you recommend on Long Island?
Ed P i do work on long island if you need anything
I’m in the Hamptons. Just saying. Thx
Arvada Mechanical. Call them at (516)260-HEAT. They’re the best!!
NY Boiler and Air Condition repair. I just got one fixed.
Another great video Steve
Lots of great infobut WHAT CAUSED THE EXPLOSIVE STARTS before you tuned it..i replaced pump adjusted electrodes new nozzle set ..all fittings snug new gaskets on filter can starts right up with a CLANK..runs 10 seconds and stops 15 seconds and starts with a explosive fuel line clanking bang..checked for fuel lines etc leaking and fuel line check valve checked ok. Like it loses prime. but cant find where.. does igniting stay on or only intill fire starts ..ive dont 90%my own furnace survice/cleaning last 40 yrs .this problem is a first. becket pump 2450 rpm 1.50B nozzle filter all new.???? Cant afford $110hr techs plus travel..learned to service from family friends Heating Service Guidence .good video sir thks
Explosive starts were caused by wrongly adjusted electrodes.
could also be the pump solenoid not working properly leaving excess oil
Depending on the pump if it has no delay valve it’s not a clean cut pump but some pumps you have to adjust oil pressure out of the box they are usually 100 psi you can look at the sides of the burner if you don’t see a sticker that says set pump to x psi then that’s not your issue but if you see that sticker and it said 130 or whatever then you have to adjust the pump pressure
steve good, only one who will show the woik, working man who knows 😎🎛. from power plant engineer shmugly. 🛠🌎
Thanks 4 posting Steve
Hello, good video. I have new Beckett AFG, makes same noise on start up. Installer says all new burners sound this way. Should it be a smooth ignition even on new models?
If its making a bang noise on start up ? Like a bunch of Fuels being ignited at once ? NO it shouldn't. The igniters need adjustment. Probably too far apart and letting oil build up in the chamber before it ignites.
@@stevenjackson7067 Thank You, will adjust and see. Will reply with results.
You can buy a Beckett igniter tip setter. It's orange in color and slips over the end of the Nozzle assembly. It let's you set the igniters the right distance from the Nozzle and the igniter assembly the proper distance from the burn chamber. Easy to use. Even I could use it.. lol..
Nasgauge part number T100-202.
I've had it a few years and can't remember what I paid for it. Was cheaper than a service call, which he didn't fix the problem.
It stopped the bang, more heat and no black smoke or oil smell coming out the chimney.
While you gave it opened up I'd clean the cad eye or as some call it "the cats eye". It recognizes the flame and if there isn't one or it doesn't see on it will shut the burner off. By then it's run 30-45 seconds, depending on control, and shot fuel in the chamber that length of time. If you hit the red button to restart it the igniters will ignite the fumes in the chamber and boom. Don't hit that red button more than once if it doesn't fire up. If you do it will go boom and the excess fuel in the chamber will burn off creating more heat than the chamber may be able to handle.
Also if you have a weak transformer it may not give the necessary spark to ignite the fuel. Let's start with the cheaper and easier fix first and that's adjustment of the igniters.
@@stevenjackson7067 Thanks for response, all thoughts are appreciated, will try different things and post success or failure.
had new furnace...sounded like jet afterburner...good sign working well
my omc rotary sled can out do it
So what was the main problem, of the boiler doing the noise, pump filter, or oil filter, or something else
what do you do if someone or someone's have pushes the reset to many times is there a way to clean the oil out of the chamber.
clean out the oil
Light a small piece of paper and toss it in to burn off the oil
that's too dangerous, soak up as much oil as possible first.
dave12546 how
Usually intails a smoky basement for 5 minutes
I know this question doesn't have to do with this video. But how do you tell the difference between a bad pump and burner motor?
Michael Morassi bad motor would lock up usually and you can test the ohms bad pump wont bleed
bad pumps, don't pump to set pressure, make noise, or will have afterfire as in this video. when off, it should drop to 80% of run pressure and hold that pressure, with no afterfire.
Steve, I'd love to meet you sometime!
good job steve
Another great video.
what efficiency is something like that oil burner?
jason 85% 😊
As I was typing you gave me my answer
+stevenlavimoniere Just curious why most of the oil lines at the tank are coiled in your videos? is it code?
The coil adds slack to the line for servicing
not a fan, looks like crap IMHO. back to that Burnham, Who puts the boiler control and the service switch like that??
Aptly named a "service loop".
Allows the door on the front of the boiler to be opened for cleaning the chamber with out having to disconnect the oil line from the burner.
i agree, shit wok to put a switch there like that.
was originally meant to reduce vibration and if you needed to reflare you had extra to do so as most were in the pour of the floor.
Don't you check the combustion and smoke number??
Learning a lot..keep it up.
Do me a favor and record it running for about 2 minutes please. This helps me sleep. I am dead serious, I would greatly appreciate it.
Good video, I didn't realize there was another filter in the fuel pump. Not sure how you do service with a button down shirt! I look like a caveman afterwards lol.. but then again I am not a professional.
good work thank s steve
Good video Steve. ...very detailed.....that instrument u were using in the fire to detect Draft. ....what is it called????
That i believe is a manometer used to detect pressure differential measured in inches of water
I can't figure it out,why do you wear gloves
To keep the stinkin ass diesel off his hands im sure.
Riello oil boiler fires up but only runs for 1-2 secs. Fires up again and this second attempt everything runs fine. Can't figure out why the first attempt fails, so to speak.
Update : cleaned nozzle and cassette. Cleaned and adjusted electrodes. Good as new now
I would like to hear some of these noises before they are fixed.
Should always oil the gasket on the filter housing when changing!! Same as with a spin on car filter.
Scusa ma si può convertire un bruciatore a gasolio ad olio usato
if radiators not warmm who fixes
Low fire baffle. Next time use steel wool to clean assembly it works great
The dumbest location for the service switch.
Your so called cleaning of the pump filter seems to be rather crude. You never cleaned it with brake cleaner or blew out with air after brushing, easily could have particles on inside to directly plug nozzle?
Why do you wear gloves ?
' Don't be a cheap skate, no big deal !' ...renew the pump gasket and filter when your at it ......as tight as 2 coats of paint as ye say Steven ? . Lift your game son ! ....raise the quality standards,' my sister says she likes a man who smells of diesel ' Keep smiling and stop stroking the Old dolls , that's for wee Molly ' The Licker' . Keep up the good work Mr. Supprano . I hope ye can take a bit of humor ...... On your knees Frankie..... Not in the face Tony...Not in the face ...For you Frankie....Not in The Face, ye low down dirty cockroach ......Thanks Tony ...God rest my soul I'll never snitch again....Your damn right Frankie and that's why I wear gloves, to deal with filthy Leakers ...you'll never Be A Leaker Again! ......... The End ... more episodes next week for Mama and Molly and Stevo
phirst.............well, the place looked clean.