Fascinating Martin, what I love is that you show with the right diagnostic gear we can still work on our cars and save a small fortune on labour and garage fees. We are constantly being told because of modern electronics this is not so and yet again you have proven this to not be the case. I don’t know what your diagnostic tool cost but I bet it’s paid for itself over and over again!
Hi Martin, love your videos. Keep it up. Might not have worked on this one but to stop the special o2 sensor sockets spreading on tight sensors you can apply a jubilee clip at the base. Works a treat usually.
Our Astra sport came up with a fault on that sensor the other day I cleared the fault and luckily it hasn’t come back I’m not sure I’d fancy changing it you did a great job there 👍
Great video Martin. Those sensors can be a pig to remove but you got the job done as you were committed after chopping the wires and sensor great job. Cheers, Jeff.
Nice testing! The wife's yaris was bogging rich, upstream 02 was lying, I put brake clean in through pcv- couldn't get it to respond and take fuel away whilst monitoring a OBD2 scanner. New 02, fixed! expensive items didn't want to throw parts at it. In open loop (cold) car run great but closed loop, pcm run it rich af. No codes just issues
Hi Martin thanks for the video , it was handy to see how difficult it was to remove, I think I did the right thing in getting a garage to change mine, I dreaded messing up anything, thanks again from Tony
That was both interesting and informative. I learned something there. It just happens that I took both sensors off a car of mine this week , but I couldn't get them off by hand. It took a ring spanner and a hammer to get them started. Not all cars would have enough room to allow that though.
Good video. Thanks. I find a Crows Foot Wrench Set very useful for exhausts where the item being removed is facing upwards into the car because you can rig the breaker bar to be under the car where there's room. Recommended, even though using heat saved you this time.
Martin Well done mate you can only test what you can a new part could have been expensive so you had a spare part with a try it worked saved you money so why not you can spend lots money on cars it sometimes never ends great video Phil in stoke
Hope the astra is well now. Those o2 sensors could be a pain in bum. But the astra looks like a fun car to drive. Hope all is well with you and your family. Best wishes from Norway 🇳🇴
Another good video Martin like watching ur content i miss the triumph acclaim but at least u have a big playlist of triumph acclaim videos see u in the next video
They are a pain in the backside Martin. I had to do my son's a few months back and in the end had to bite the bullet and cut the wire off. At least you are then committed, so it has to be done. Take care
Nice one Martin its abit of annoying laying under a car working i had to take the front pipe off my astra to get sensor off the pipe was knackered anyway I've replaced with a new one 👍
Just some info: The fuses are located under the bonnet, they are the engine management fuses they are maxi blade fuses (Ef2 60A Fuse / Relay Box - Instrument Cluster, Low Beam, Daytime Running Lights, Anti-theft System, Immobilizer Control Unit, Engine Management and Ef6 30A Engine management. I found it easier to remove the sensor by taking off that section of the exhaust and unbolt with the 02 sensor remover.
Hi Martin a really interesting video , I got a bit tense when you were working on that bottom censor but I knew you get it off Also recycling parts good job mate loved it .Kevbo&Jackie
Matt from “Furious Driving” swears by a penetrating spray called Bulldog BDF when undoing rusted or stuck bolts, etc. I had to change the same sensor on our Mini last year, I ended up attacking it with an angle grinder and mole grips as the open sided socket rounded it off. A tip I learned about afterwards is to put either a jubilee clip or mole grips around the socket to try to prevent the socket from opening.
Hello Martin, I had the same problem on my Golf and the fuel consumption and the economy is really bad and i had to keep put some petrol every few days depending how much I want to put in. I normally get somewhere around 34-37mpg, 2.0 8v with 115bhp engine. The catalytic converter has been replaced but it’s a non genuine one as the genuine vw cat converters is around 600 quid which is basically more on what the car is worth, it saved me hundreds of pounds! Also, the engine management light keeps coming on because the oxygen sensor is totally shagged out. I replaced the sensor oxygen sensor in the engine the other day. Took out for a test drive for 20 miles, noticed the mpg made a huge improvement! I’ve got about somewhere between 42-45mpg! Also noticed feel no jerk at all! I don’t know how long the engine light will stay off for after changed the oxygen sensor? the engine management light may come on again because the catalytic converter isn’t genuine which I read something online. This video really helps! Keep up the good work with your videos and I enjoy watching it Martin!😊
I normally use a pipe wrench on anything that wont turn with a spanner and messing the nut up. I used one on mine when i fitted a new exhaust system on my mk1 zafira. What i like about the pipe wrench is the harder you push on them the more they tighten and grip i find they move just about anything. One swift smack with a lump hammer and mine moved and came off fine.
Great job Martin bit of a awkward place but job well done and the ££ you saved god know how much that would have cost if you took it to a garage to get done
I did this on a Fiesta but I didnt have the special socket with the cut out so I cut the wire like you Mart, but I tightened the new one with a spanner but it was mounted on top of the manifold. Bit of a pig all the same.
Very interesting and informative. May i ask what brand the scan tool you are using. I have a vauxhall Zafira B and have been looking at a few machines!!! Please help, is yours specific to Vauxhalls(GM) or general to all vehicles.. thank you and a great channel
Some say B1S2 sensor corrections to fuel trims are minimal towards non existant. May I ask where you find the information that sensor 2 has fuel control strategy?
@@retrorestore Lol, I found a 22mm in a 307 I brought, I kept hold of it and when I had my MK4 I changed the flexi and down pipe, it came in handy lol... But you did a great job with the tools you had.
Because the correct Lambda socket was spreading and you decided to chop the wiring off the sensor you should of just welded a piece of flat bar across the split in the Lambda socket to stop it spreading just so you could remove the remains of the old sensor then cut the welded flat bar off the socket so you could nip the new sensor up, i have the Lambda sensor sockets a snap on one a laser tools one and a franklin tools one and they all spread apart in the end i used a thick walled deep impact socket and cut a slot in the side of it and it's been the go to tool to get them things out but heat is your best friend to getting them rear sensors out as for the front Manicat Lambda sensors everyone I've tried getting out on them engines i have always rounded them off even with the exhaust red hot and ended up drilling the sensor out after i have smashed the top off them and hammered the sensing part into the Manicat.
personally i think you should always look to using second hand parts wherever practical to do so even insurance companys use what they term as green parts for repairs
It’s true the ecu will make the car run richer if the O2 sensor has failed thus wasting fuel and the way fuel prices are these days you can’t afford to leave it
Well that can't be right, I've owned multiple Vauxhall over the last 25 years and the rear O2 sensor is only there to 'check' that the cat is doing its job, it has no bearing on the fuel mixture, that's the job of pre cat O2 sensor. The only other thing that can have a major effect on fueling on theses 1.8 ecotec engines is a crap MAF sensor, very common at over reading or under reading. I'd be paying a close look at the short and long term fuel trims.
@@stiggyness1976 You are 100% right. Downstream o2 is here to check catalyst efficency and make a small corrections on long term fuel trim. As on that part when Martin shows diagnostics data o2 s2 reads 800mv and that shows that catalyst have capability to store the oxygen. Burnt heater can set catalyst efficency code as heating is prolonged and o2 isn't reading right. @ Martin Please check your Long term fuel trim values LTFT. If you have rich mixture values will be negative and if positive there will be a lean mixture. So with fuel trims there really you can't overfuel. Engine ecu will throw fault code if ltft values exceeds 25% from 0 and will set the engine in safe mode. And if you have a slightly rich mixture with negative ltft ecu will reduce injector pulse duration to keep mixture near stoichiometric value.
ah wee trick that works 99 percent of the time when o2 socket is in place put a hose clamp over it and tighten it up it stops the o2 socket spreading out
Fascinating Martin, what I love is that you show with the right diagnostic gear we can still work on our cars and save a small fortune on labour and garage fees. We are constantly being told because of modern electronics this is not so and yet again you have proven this to not be the case. I don’t know what your diagnostic tool cost but I bet it’s paid for itself over and over again!
Love your approach to a problem Martin. Nothing stops you does it
Hi Martin, love your videos. Keep it up. Might not have worked on this one but to stop the special o2 sensor sockets spreading on tight sensors you can apply a jubilee clip at the base. Works a treat usually.
Yes, I did think of that one the last time I used it Pat
Great idea 👍 I'm 'stealing' that tip
You are good at fixing cars and dealing with the problems that can arise
Hi Martin, would be interesting to see how much this has improved the fuel economy. Thanks for another great video 👍🏼
Our Astra sport came up with a fault on that sensor the other day I cleared the fault and luckily it hasn’t come back I’m not sure I’d fancy changing it you did a great job there 👍
A brilliant man 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video Martin. Those sensors can be a pig to remove but you got the job done as you were committed after chopping the wires and sensor great job.
Cheers, Jeff.
Point of no return Jeff lol
Perseverance.. the formula for success! Another job well done 👍
Thanks 👍
Nice testing! The wife's yaris was bogging rich, upstream 02 was lying, I put brake clean in through pcv- couldn't get it to respond and take fuel away whilst monitoring a OBD2 scanner. New 02, fixed! expensive items didn't want to throw parts at it.
In open loop (cold) car run great but closed loop, pcm run it rich af. No codes just issues
Good stuff
Hi Martin, That was a pain but you never give up, well done Martin
Thanks David👍
Another master class...thanks again Martin..Keep up the good work...cheers from Australia
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Martin thanks for the video , it was handy to see how difficult it was to remove, I think I did the right thing in getting a garage to change mine, I dreaded messing up anything, thanks again from Tony
Great informative video glad you were able to sort it.To many electrial parts on cars nowadays. ALL the best to you all
Thanks Mart.👍 Yes, a diagnostic tool is an essential on cars nowadays.
That was both interesting and informative. I learned something there. It just happens that I took both sensors off a car of mine this week , but I couldn't get them off by hand. It took a ring spanner and a hammer to get them started. Not all cars would have enough room to allow that though.
Applying the heat was the key in this case.
Good video. Thanks.
I find a Crows Foot Wrench Set very useful for exhausts where the item being removed is facing upwards into the car because you can rig the breaker bar to be under the car where there's room. Recommended, even though using heat saved you this time.
Yes Dave, I didn't have one of those so had to make do with what I had.
Martin
Well done mate you can only test what you can a new part could have been expensive so you had a spare part with a try it worked saved you money so why not you can spend lots money on cars it sometimes never ends great video
Phil in stoke
Yes, a new one is about £60 Phil. This one was free.
Result Martin, and that’s all what matters!bud! 👍👍
The extension-a-saurus was great! must have used every extension in the tool box to make that one up Martin.
Absolutely lol
Hope the astra is well now. Those o2 sensors could be a pain in bum. But the astra looks like a fun car to drive. Hope all is well with you and your family. Best wishes from Norway 🇳🇴
Yes bud it runs fine now. Thanks
That worked out well , and the threads stayed intact
Another good video Martin like watching ur content i miss the triumph acclaim but at least u have a big playlist of triumph acclaim videos see u in the next video
Thanks 👍
Great improvisation mate, O2 censors are a real pig.
Yes they are
Good work there Martin
They are a pain in the backside Martin. I had to do my son's a few months back and in the end had to bite the bullet and cut the wire off. At least you are then committed, so it has to be done.
Take care
They are a pain Jeff but the heat did the job.
@@retrorestore That's what I had to do in the end Martin.
Nice one Martin its abit of annoying laying under a car working i had to take the front pipe off my astra to get sensor off the pipe was knackered anyway I've replaced with a new one 👍
Yes John, would be great to hav a proper lift.
thankyou Martin and yet another enjoyable video,have a good weekend..👍👍a jubilee clip on that socket stops it opening up,,
Yes Steve, I did hear that one.
Excellent knowledge Martin... Thanks for sharing 👍👍
Has Forest Gump's drill sargeant said......You're a God Damn genius Butler.
Good job I had the same prob an now the front 1 has gone 2 so this vid will help do it a different way if that tool doesn't thanks
Just some info:
The fuses are located under the bonnet, they are the engine management fuses they are maxi blade fuses (Ef2 60A Fuse / Relay Box - Instrument Cluster, Low Beam, Daytime Running Lights, Anti-theft System, Immobilizer Control Unit, Engine Management and Ef6 30A Engine management.
I found it easier to remove the sensor by taking off that section of the exhaust and unbolt with the 02 sensor remover.
Hi Martin a really interesting video , I got a bit tense when you were working on that bottom censor but I knew you get it off Also recycling parts good job mate loved it .Kevbo&Jackie
Matt from “Furious Driving” swears by a penetrating spray called Bulldog BDF when undoing rusted or stuck bolts, etc.
I had to change the same sensor on our Mini last year, I ended up attacking it with an angle grinder and mole grips as the open sided socket rounded it off. A tip I learned about afterwards is to put either a jubilee clip or mole grips around the socket to try to prevent the socket from opening.
Yes i've heard about that tip.
Good video, this will definitely help someone doing the same job!!!
Good job well done Martin would a bit of copper grease on reassembly help ?
I did lube it off camera Ian.
Hello Martin, I had the same problem on my Golf and the fuel consumption and the economy is really bad and i had to keep put some petrol every few days depending how much I want to put in. I normally get somewhere around 34-37mpg, 2.0 8v with 115bhp engine. The catalytic converter has been replaced but it’s a non genuine one as the genuine vw cat converters is around 600 quid which is basically more on what the car is worth, it saved me hundreds of pounds! Also, the engine management light keeps coming on because the oxygen sensor is totally shagged out. I replaced the sensor oxygen sensor in the engine the other day. Took out for a test drive for 20 miles, noticed the mpg made a huge improvement! I’ve got about somewhere between 42-45mpg! Also noticed feel no jerk at all! I don’t know how long the engine light will stay off for after changed the oxygen sensor? the engine management light may come on again because the catalytic converter isn’t genuine which I read something online. This video really helps! Keep up the good work with your videos and I enjoy watching it Martin!😊
Nice one David, glad it helped.
Well done again Martin, another triumph. Oh no, I mean Vauxhall. Sorry, I'll get me coat.
Hi Martin, that rust in the chassis behind your hand looks like it might be worth fixing before it gets much worse
Superb job sir😊
Nice work Martin
Great fix Martin and where is Gary when you need a hand lol 👍👍👍👍
Playing computer games lol
I normally use a pipe wrench on anything that wont turn with a spanner and messing the nut up. I used one on mine when i fitted a new exhaust system on my mk1 zafira. What i like about the pipe wrench is the harder you push on them the more they tighten and grip i find they move just about anything. One swift smack with a lump hammer and mine moved and came off fine.
Yes I agree but in this case, there was no room to swing so this was my option.
Had a similar problem with a vectra
Sprayed the electric connections on top of the sensor with wd40 and that solved the problem
Nice one Martin 👍👍 me arms where aching just watching ya do this job 😂😂😂😂
I was as happy as you when you said “GOT IT!” 🤣🤣🤣
Top job Martin very tricky 👌👍
Yes it was
Top work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
That was a brute of a job!
Fuse 26 is for both o2's the purge valve and the Maf
Bring back the good old days no ecu no electronics and you could fix everything yourself.
Nice work. Looks like you could use some more sockets.
Great job Martin bit of a awkward place but job well done and the ££ you saved god know how much that would have cost if you took it to a garage to get done
Absolutely
Cheers Martin sorry I missed most of it mate
I did this on a Fiesta but I didnt have the special socket with the cut out so I cut the wire like you Mart, but I tightened the new one with a spanner but it was mounted on top of the manifold. Bit of a pig all the same.
Nice work!
Great video Martin, looks like Project Man has been pilfering your tools again!! 😅😂🤣
Tell me about it
Very interesting and informative. May i ask what brand the scan tool you are using. I have a vauxhall Zafira B and have been looking at a few machines!!! Please help, is yours specific to Vauxhalls(GM) or general to all vehicles.. thank you and a great channel
Here's the review I did on it th-cam.com/video/kDk_CrW5QHQ/w-d-xo.html
Great job mate , you worked around it with the tools you had 👍👍what scanner is that ya using ?
Its a Topdon one bud. I did a review video on it.
Some say B1S2 sensor corrections to fuel trims are minimal towards non existant. May I ask where you find the information that sensor 2 has fuel control strategy?
On the 02 sensors on the Astra MK4 a 22mm spanner works as well.
Yes, I didn't have one though lol
@@retrorestore Lol, I found a 22mm in a 307 I brought, I kept hold of it and when I had my MK4 I changed the flexi and down pipe, it came in handy lol... But you did a great job with the tools you had.
Done a couple of them Martin pain in back side
with split socket jubilee clip it ?
another good informative video. 👍
Thanks 👍
Hi if you use a stainless steel jubilee clip on your O 2 sensor tool it should stay tight and not open up .👍🏻😎👍🏻
Yes, I heard that one Alan, thanks.
I’d love to see you do an electric conversion on an old classic.
That would be gd
You don't ask for much
@@ArcadeCabNBud all I said is thar be gd I didn't ask.
@@ArcadeCabNBud I know ;). Unfortunately that’s the future and the future looks crap. It would be a good money maker for Martin though.
Nice 👍🙂
Thanks 😊
What type of blow lamp and gas do you use please
Here's what I use amzn.to/3bMnt6d
Because the correct Lambda socket was spreading and you decided to chop the wiring off the sensor you should of just welded a piece of flat bar across the split in the Lambda socket to stop it spreading just so you could remove the remains of the old sensor then cut the welded flat bar off the socket so you could nip the new sensor up, i have the Lambda sensor sockets a snap on one a laser tools one and a franklin tools one and they all spread apart in the end i used a thick walled deep impact socket and cut a slot in the side of it and it's been the go to tool to get them things out but heat is your best friend to getting them rear sensors out as for the front Manicat Lambda sensors everyone I've tried getting out on them engines i have always rounded them off even with the exhaust red hot and ended up drilling the sensor out after i have smashed the top off them and hammered the sensing part into the Manicat.
personally i think you should always look to using second hand parts wherever practical to do so
even insurance companys use what they term as green parts for repairs
I think Ive got the same issue on my mother AStra mk5 1.8, ive changed the one before the cat but I think its the other one thats gone
👍👍👍
My apologies I really don't get it, what does this PO14104 do? Could someone explain what this sensor is all about?
it tells if the cat is working correctly
Let's gooo 👍
It’s true the ecu will make the car run richer if the O2 sensor has failed thus wasting fuel and the way fuel prices are these days you can’t afford to leave it
This was drinking fuel and the performance was off too.
@@retrorestore yea sounds about right
Well that can't be right, I've owned multiple Vauxhall over the last 25 years and the rear O2 sensor is only there to 'check' that the cat is doing its job, it has no bearing on the fuel mixture, that's the job of pre cat O2 sensor. The only other thing that can have a major effect on fueling on theses 1.8 ecotec engines is a crap MAF sensor, very common at over reading or under reading. I'd be paying a close look at the short and long term fuel trims.
@@stiggyness1976 You are 100% right. Downstream o2 is here to check catalyst efficency and make a small corrections on long term fuel trim. As on that part when Martin shows diagnostics data o2 s2 reads 800mv and that shows that catalyst have capability to store the oxygen. Burnt heater can set catalyst efficency code as heating is prolonged and o2 isn't reading right.
@ Martin
Please check your Long term fuel trim values LTFT. If you have rich mixture values will be negative and if positive there will be a lean mixture. So with fuel trims there really you can't overfuel. Engine ecu will throw fault code if ltft values exceeds 25% from 0 and will set the engine in safe mode. And if you have a slightly rich mixture with negative ltft ecu will reduce injector pulse duration to keep mixture near stoichiometric value.
ah wee trick that works 99 percent of the time when o2 socket is in place put a hose clamp over it and tighten it up it stops the o2 socket spreading out
how tight is it martin ? 8:54 🤣🤣🤣
lol Dave