The Problem With GRAFTED FRUIT TREES: Don't Make This BIG Mistake!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- On today's 2 minute garden tip, I share the problem with grafted fruit trees and a common problem some young fruit trees experience that could set back, harm or even kill your new grafted fruit tree! Don't make this big mistake when growing grafted fruit trees, or it could cost your fruit tree its life!
If a grafted fruit tree flowers before the tree is well-rooted and anchored, the stress of the flowering process too early can slow, damage or even outright kill the tree. I explain why this phenomenon occurs, how to remove flowers from a fruit tree that's flowering too early, and why you should do this when a fruit tree is young. While flower removal may be difficult for us to do, the fruit tree will perform much better in the long run and provide bigger harvests in the future.
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ABOUT MY GARDEN
Location: Southeastern NC, Brunswick County (Wilmington area)
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©2 Minute Garden Tips
#gardening #garden #gardeningtips #fruittree #fruittrees
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I have grown fruit trees for fifty years and had a six hundred apple tree commercial orchard.
What you just told me about the scion's age being the age of the mother tree was a revelation.
Always something to learn from you.
Best wishes for you in the new homestead, don't wait too long to get it going, especially the trees.
Stan S
Great lesson on grafted trees. Thanks for such good information, as always.
You're welcome!
When you mentioned “coffee cake” persimmon… I need 1!
It's an interesting pollination variant variety. I'm excited to try it. It doesn't taste like coffee cake, though. It's a play on the color when it's pollenized. It turns a brownish color, similar to the color of coffee cake.
Interesting information!
Ive just got into grafting Satsuma trees. I let my first year grafted trees fruit last year. One of them never bloomed this year.
That said, my apples trees (3) never flowered this year.
My peach trees (3) only one set fruit.
So weve had a odd spring. I was able to plant my garden in mid February this year, its normally the first two weeks in March.
My green beans are producing like crazy. I timed my radishes so i did 4 different plantings. They did great. Harvested a bunch of bell and jalapeños yesterday. Graden is flourishing but fruit trees not doing much!
Thank-you! I've grafted scions onto my wild fig (did not produce edible figs) and now I have 5 different fig types fruiting on my "wild tree". Best advice ever.
Be careful with grafting figs. They're one fruit tree I never graft, because they love to die back to the ground in cold winters. If your fig dies to the ground in the cold, you'll lose all the grafts. If you're in a warm climate where freezes aren't an issue, you'll likely be fine, but fig trees just love dying back so much that it makes them one of the hardest deciduous trees to grow and make look nice. Fig wood is so fragile 😆
@@2MinuteGardenTips This does not square with types of Figs such as Chicago Hardy! Figs can be quite hardy.
Do you have any reputable nurseries that you recommend for buying grafted fruit trees online?
Yes. See this video for a list in the timestamps: th-cam.com/video/VPxfnDXYxUs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xKAwmI60aQbqPV3f
I learned a few things from this.
I'm glad it was helpful.
I have a 1 acre back yard that i turned into a food forest. About 60 trees and around 100 bushes and vines that produce everything my growing zone can handle. I only buy the grafted trees and they usually have fruit on them when i buy them. That way i know its a good producer. I love getting fruit quickly if i need it. But i mostly clip off the budding fruit till the tree matures a few years and establishes itself.
There is also a huge forest behind my house that i have seeded with millions of stratified seeds. I even started a Paw Paw Patch in the middle of it.
This is a good plan. The funny thing is, over the years I've learned to mostly select smaller grafted trees. The bigger grafted trees usually take longer to establish, whereas the smaller grafted trees grab root more quickly and often surpass the initially larger trees long-term.
@@2MinuteGardenTips The root ball all jammed in the pot is a problem. You have to clean it and straighten the roots out. I dig a hole about 3 feet deep and 3 feet wide. Fill it with cow compost, forest floor scrapings, and topsoil. But i water it down so its like a runny sludge and pour it into the hole while supporting the tree. The water gets sucked into the surrounding ground pretty fast and the tree settles with its roots in the normal growing position. Its established by the next year.
A lot of the stone fruit trees, peaches, nectarines etc will fruit from seed in two or three years and are usually very close to the parent tree's characteristics as they are self fertile so don't need cross pollination. A seedlings's root system is always stronger than a grafted tree's roots too, so will be more robust and less sickly.
I'm in agreement with you! I don't mind the hybridization, and time it takes!
The likelihood of a seed-grown fruit tree fruiting before or even in-line with a grafted fruit tree is low. Even if you got lucky and it somehow fruited in a similar timeframe, there are more benefits to a rootstock. Rootstocks are selected for disease resistance, size control, soil type tolerance, etc. A seed-grown fruit tree will have random roots and will grow to a random size. There is a reason why professional growers grow grafted trees despite the extra cost. They're more reliable, they fruit sooner, there is less of a chance of having a problem with disease, you can pair them to your soil, etc. There are very few reasons where growing a seed-grown tree is justified from a fruit quality, fruit production timeline or economic standpoint. It's risky for a backyard gardener with small size, and even riskier for a professional grower.
Thank you MG! 😊👍👍
You're welcome!
I just picked up my 2 paw paws and a persimmon tree that I ordered way back in the winter (potted rather than bare root). All grafted. I agree, it makes me cry to pick off the flower buds but I know it has to be done. Before I plant them, I have to rig up a system to shade the paw paws.
I read papers that... technically only super young pawpaws require shade (in the wild its a requirement). But if you get them post-young age... they can produce better and thrive in full sun. They grow a lot of them at the brewery in fields over here. So just an idea.
Paw paw's have been a long-term project. I think I'm on the 4th full year and still no fruit. They both flowered, but they were totally out of sync, so nothing pollinated. Another year without fruit 😟 I'm hoping next year they flower more closely together.
Thanks for the info! Does this apply to grafted apple trees too? Mine are flowering right now, just planted last fall.
This applies to any grafted fruit tree or rooted cutting that is trying to flower that first year.
Nice video sharing ❤
Thank you!
As always... Great information 🙂
Thank you!
Thank you for this information 😊
You're welcome!
I have an orange tree from last year and this March it flowered and made a lot of little oranges. I left two but one was aborted anyways, there's just one left, it would be better to take them all out at once.
Great info, thanks!
You're welcome!
I planted a grafted plum tree a few months ago with 4 species growing on it. It’s about 5 ft tall and had a ton of fruit. I removed all but maybe 7 or 8 of them. The tree seems to be growing fine. Should I take off the remaining fruit too?
I know NC still has illegal cannabis, but your knowledge carries over. Not with everything, but you have great tips and tricks that work that other channels on TH-cam just keep regurgitating the same bro science. Keep it up
legal on the reservation (medical) and delta-8 from the federally legal cannabis is allowed as well.
WOWZA, thank you very much for this information, I have a new grafted Yuzu tree that is starting to flower already. I will nip them today. You are WONDERFUL 👍🧓
You're welcome! If it is a new graft, definitely do not let it flower. The weight of the fruit alone is a danger to the tree. After the tree spends a full year in the ground putting down roots and growing larger, you can maybe let it hold 2-3 fruits, but I wouldn't go anymore than that. I try not to let the tree hold a decent crop until Year 3.
@@2MinuteGardenTips Thank you again 😘🧓
Thanks for the content. I liked and subbed.
I appreciate you subscribing!
the shades give terminator 2 arnold schwarzenegger vibes. kinda sinister 😎
the sunglasses might be bad for the algorithm
Except without the muscles 🤓
Thank you so much for the info, perfect timing. I just purchased a 4 ft tall Nikita’s Gift persimmon tree that arrived loaded with flower buds. I transferred it to a larger pot for the time being due to cool nights in 5A and many of the flowers have fallen off. Is this normal and a naturally good thing?
Where did you order her from?
So hard to do with my dwarf Cara Cara. My yuzu cutting REALLY wants to fruit. It's the hardest to keep after right now
It's hard mentally, but it's easy physically. You just have to keep an eye on it and be cold-blooded and steadfast about it. Once the spring temperatures end, the flowering will stop. When it's consistently warm, they will settle down.
What about larger grafted trees (4 to 6 ft range)? Do you recommended plucking the flowers for the first 2 years as well? Thanks for the information!
Normally that’s good advice for bare root trees. If you bought a tree in a pot it’s more than likely 1-2 years older than a bare root
@@Maximtheg1993 Thank you!
Yes, because the problem is they will not have sufficient roots in-place to support the fruit. You even run the risk of the tree falling over under the weight of the fruit if the tree is still poorly anchored. It isn't necessarily the tree size that's the problem, but it's the lack of strong roots that is a real issue. I recommend you remove all flowers that first full year. The second year, you may be able to leave 2-3 fruits if the tree put on a lot of growth, but even Year 2, I wouldn't recommend you take any risks. Year 3 is usually when you can have some type of harvest.
@@2MinuteGardenTips I planted a few potted trees (apricot, aprium, peach) last spring and the trees all have 10-20 fruits on them that are maturing nicely. We also have 70mph wind storms in the winter 2-3 days normally. The trees aren’t even supported and so far no problems
Same for a Meyer lemon or Lime cutting?
I have the same question
@@shawnfrazier9785 my meyer lemon produced the first year (only 3) and has like (10?) on it this year. Second season, grown in a container.
They seem to self regulate, I noticed it would drop young fruit if too much was pollinated. (I hand pollinated all of them).
It's also grown x3 in size over one year.
3 years in and no fruit on our meyer lemon that my wife decided to grow from seed. Never even a flower bud. It's already 4 foot tall with the base about the thickness of a.50c piece. Thinking of ripping it out. We didn't know about three grafting vs seed problem.
@@EL-em3mn Oh from seed is the issue, mine is grafted. You prob won't get fruit for another year or two. Mine was prob not worth it... got a Van Zyverden 5 in. Citrus Meyer Lemon Tree from lowes. ($30) but honestly after this harvest and last years. I will have made profit, 10 fruit about the size of a chicken egg on them right now. (harvest size I guess) But last year, I let them grow to the size of a grapefruit and harvested after they started to turn a slight orange and was really soft. (Made great lemonade).
@@EC-dz4bq damn that's amazing. Yeah i think i just have to scrap my tree and get a grafted one. I planted 2 peach, 2 kumquat, 1 nectaplum and a pummelo tree this year. First fruit trees beside my lemonless lemon tree ever. Good luck with your crop.
What should we give to it then since we aren’t allowing it to flower? Plz suggest for grafted fruit trees: apple, pear, both of which are grafted. Ty!
My pears which are grafted grow amazing compared to my other grafted trees. Has 1 perfect lead on all of them, great growth.
What do you mean by give to it? Do you mean in terms of fertilizer? I fertilize the planting hole when I plant my trees as shown in this video here, but other than that, I want the young trees to spend their first year slowly establishing without any enormous flushes of growth until the roots are set: th-cam.com/video/MOK9E0zGets/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GL9OO5qICo8KUeD7
@@2MinuteGardenTipsty I will relisten. Very helpful and I appreciate your help!
I don't grow fruit trees I like to grow shade trees like white oak bur oaks.
I put my satsuma in the ground back in September and it’s now April and it had flowers and now little fruit all over it. Should I remove all of them off the tree?
Tricky. Since citrus are evergreen, it has been putting down roots, albeit slowly, for the last 6-7 months. If the tree is at least 2 feet tall, you may be able to allow it to hold 2-3 fruits if you really want to try it, but I would strongly caution against allowing any more than that. Spending the energy to ripen fruits will slow down root development, and if it overbears, it can throw it into an alternate-bearing cycle. I made this mistake with my Brown's Select satsuma. I let it hold over a dozen fruits its 2nd full year in ground, and it took the entire 3rd year off. It didn't flower or even produce any new growth. It's now Year 4 and it has recovered from the stress and flowered and set fruit again.
@@2MinuteGardenTips I’d say the tree is more like 3 1/2 ft tall, maybe even closer to 4
I just got a baby fig tree called Fignomenal, do you have any knowledge on it? I don't have my own house, i rent so i bought it because it's a dwarf tree that can be kept in container.
No. Every fig seed will produce a totally random tree. Because of the feral nature of figs in California, there are constantly people sharing random seedlings they find growing. And, a lot of fig varieties are re-branded and re-named over and over. It's pretty much impossible to keep up with the thousands of different figs out there.
Does this mean the tree has a shorter life expectancy as it is already 40+ years old like you said?
No. That's the great thing about grafted fruit trees. You get all the benefits of a young, vigorous tree that will live a very long time (provided you care for it properly and it isn't attacked by pests or disease), but you get immediate fruiting.
Worth noting that even if you did try and grow the fruit it would be of lesser quality and therefore not worth it. Short term pain for long term gain.
Yes, I did mention risk of inferior fruit quality in the video. You usually have to grow 100 trees from seed to walk away with 3-5 varieties that are actually worth sharing. I am doing that with figs now, and it's a long road.
This video is rated PG for all the times the word 'sexual' is mentioned. LOL! Thanks for the tips!
It's what makes fruit production possible! I try my best to be technically correct.
Love the video, however 10-15 years might be stretching it from seed to fruit.....
Depends. I have a seedling mango tree that I planted in the ground 17 years ago and it's never even flowered yet. I have a seedling I'm growing in a container that bloomed in its second year and is now holding fruit in year three.
@@user-su5du9ln8r truly doesn't make sense sometime....
@@user-su5du9ln8r because the mango in the ground is growing roots still. potted mangoes get rootbound, and therefore have nothing to do but fruit. Plant the potted one and it wont fruit for many years also. Mango trees live 100 plus years, so a 17 year old one is still a newborn
@@ArizonaFruitTrees Depends. With grafted trees, that's usually the case which is why I prefer to incrementally up-pot. 90% of my grafted fruit trees start flowering and holding fruit by 2nd year although I pick them off until in at least a 7-gal container. I have seedling a mango planted in a pot on the same day as the fruiting one that still hasn't even flowered.
I'm really not exaggerating. Most fruit tree species seriously take that long to reach adolescence. Growing a fruit tree from seed is like raising a child. They reach maturity along a shockingly similar timeframe, and we even have similar lifespans in many cases.
👍👍👵🏻👩🌾❣️
So should I give my grafted fruit trees some bone meal?
Yes. Bone meal is excellent for root development. This is how I plant my trees: th-cam.com/video/MOK9E0zGets/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GL9OO5qICo8KUeD7
Not entirely accurate
A lot of seedlings will produce from 3 years of age
Every single named variety we have today originated from a seedling, imagine if everyone thought the way you do...
Seedlings are generally stronger than grafted trees, especially if you plant the seed in the final position (not in a pot and then transplant)
Especially if you know what you are doing (plant breeding) seedlings can produce great new varieties!
Every single variety we have today is from a seedling, because breeders establish programs to grow hundreds of trees with the understanding that in 10-15 years time, with all that effort, they’ll only walk away with a handful worth sharing. That’s why growing from seed makes so little sense for backyard growers. The chance of getting a tree actually worth growing is tiny. Seed growing doesn’t make sense unless you’re a breeder, or you’re growing something like moringa or jackfruit, but they are the exception to the rule.
First
O my gosh i kept hearing sexually mature and was like nahhhhhh its a tree dawg