How I learned to love Resin 3D Printing with the Halot One Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- Check out the Halot One here: amzn.to/3pcFopV use coupon code 3dprofess20 on checkout for 10% off
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0:00 How I learned to stop hating and start loving resin
3:08 The Halot-One
4:25 A whole new world
7:09 The 11 things you'll need to resin 3D print
11:14 Finding the killer app
14:05 #Whatchamakin - บันเทิง
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You may have noticed the printer is a little... grungy. www.3dpprofessor.com/2021/12/01/halot-one-review-video/
You shouldn't be using latex gloves for handling resin afaik. From what I understand the chemicals in the resin like to seep through the material of the gloves slowly and nitrile protects against it better than latex.
Good to know.
I started 3d printing 2 years ago with the creality ld 002r resin printer because resin is way more detailed than fdm. I bought another one and them both running 24 hours a day 7 days a week. I eventually sold the both of them and bought a peopoly phenom for large prints and I love this printer. I tried fdm and bought the cr10 and I never could get it to run right. I bought all kinds of up grades and even bought simplified 3d slicer program with no luck. So I sold the cr10 and bought the peopoly phenom I was looking for a big build volume and ease of use. Resin printing is easy and the prints come out gorgeous. I highly recommend it. I'm glad to see you giving it one more try. Happy creating..........
Little trick with using clear resin: After cleaning with IPA/ drying, give it a dusting of clear coat spray. Then a shorter curing time this will give near optically clear results. ( The browning is usually over curing ) The clear coat gets rid of micro scratches in the resin that attract a haze appearance.
@wutmoorlord Curing needs UVA ..the Sun has a lot of UVC that actually damages the resin rather then cure. Which is the reason a print can get a "Tan"
do you mean like a clear varnish?
@@poepflater I use the automotive clearcoat spray-varnish tends to leave streaks/ brush marks. dipping would work but a lot messier to clean up
thanks for clearing that up, so 2K clearcoat!@@Sgt.Taz3D
You are my favorite 3D printer reviewer. I love your videos!
helpful !! thanks so much! good luck Professor!
Two things, when you print something flat is when you see the problems happening cause will have much more suction forces happening then you need to start to make drain holes and tilt. Second, use varnish on the transparent ones and that will bring the transparency even more!
Looking forward to seeing if there’s a non-yellowing clear resin and what you are going to do with it.
If you have power in your shed, you could use a powerline WiFi adapter to get WiFi in your shed, i have built an office in my back garden about 60 meters from my router and it works perfect.
Great video, looking forward to seeing those clear prints, any chance of the setting for the halot one on that piece of paper you had with the creality resin please
I'd love to see you print optical items: micro lenses, Fresnel lenses, light pipes, etc.
New firmware has been
released and really made me suprised, smoother interface and creative cloud was updated and included in printing control menu systems.
I use the slicer that came with the machine. I don't know what I'm missing really, but it seems to do the job.
for me it's the detailed minis, i paint mine, so I'm looking forward to see what's so great about transparency, maybe ghost minis or spell effects?
Use something like alchohol inks or transparent paints to paint transparent parts so you don't have to buy different transparent resins for different colors.
another thing thats useful are boot tray, saved a bit of heartache when the fep rips and you end up with resin all over everything. The mat can only do SO much to contain the mess.
I’ve got the Halot One, too. It was a pain to first set up, and I have burned through sooooo many FEP sheets…..but I really enjoy it.
I also burned through one FEP sheet. Why does this machine seem to kill FEPs?
Ill be honest i use lychee slicer, and I actually like the ads because i can be up to date on what cool stuff everyone is creating
@13:00 about the browning/ambering/yellowing of the resin, it seems to do that when it is overcured (overcooked)
I hope I can learn to love it too. Not sure what printer I'm starting with yet...
Cthulubox is now the official name.
The old name is forgotten forever.
Can I recommend printing a handle for the printers cover. I put them on all my printers covers with double sided tape. Keeps them pretty clean.
For keeping the finger prints off? That sounds like a good idea.
i also like the Halot one, still a slow printer, layer exposure goes higher than 4.2 but i still like it
Its difficult to tell whether you have actually done much work on this printer. do you think you could let me know one year and a bit on please? I am about to get this and the wash station they make 02 model in a special offer and so far I haven't seen any real complaints. Good video by the way, nicely lit and edited. Regards from Barcelona, Espana.
A Screen Protector under the vat, on top of the LCD. Just in case the vat has a hole, or you spill... Also, I have had limited success curing clear prints in a clear glass of water.
Hello Professor 3D-P. Well... When whilst writing it.... Not 3P-O... But i'm not sure i'd want 3P-O to teach me about 3D-printing... 🤷♂To spazzy imo. Who you you do remind me of, is an older
Technology Connections. The same atire from the 80's, and the same calm demeanor, explaining things that won't offend, what ever level of expertise you have(Dunning-Kruger excluded). What caught my attention straight away, was how you arrived at resin printing. What has been putting me of is that resin printing has mostly been towards model/ststue builders. But i'v found that it's perfect for detailed mechanical parts. Like the arms of Doc Octop... Well... I may have said to much... As you also resemble Doc Ock(...Well, you kind of look like Alfred Molina imo) Any how, i'v thoroughly enjoyd your take on Resin Printing. And I agree, i't awesome! HYaven't checked yet, but i guess that I have a-lot of back loging to do. See you when i'm done. Best regards from Sweden.
That coupon for the Amazon purchase isn't working. Great video BTW.
Have you tried curing on overcast days, I'm looking at one of these printers and saw your comment. I've done a fair amount of photonegative PCB development and I preferred doing the UV exposure on overcast days... it took a few minutes longer ( like 5 minutes total) but was more even and predictable. I'd imagine there is more UV on overcast days than one expects.
Intersting. I'll have to give it a try. I've changed to a curing station proper, but they still come out tacky sometimes.
I still have a 12V UV LED panel I made like 20 years ago in a box somewhere, taht thing made your eyes feel like it had sea sand in just from wall reflections.@@3dpprofessor
Can you make a follow up or addendum to your 3D printing safety video about resin, maybe take a look at its safety data? I've been wanting a resin printer but I live in an apartment
Here you go: th-cam.com/video/4W5IrzlkYdI/w-d-xo.html
@@3dpprofessor Thank you Prof! That answered my questions. Gonna get a resin printer, put it in a safe place and take as many precautions I can. I hope that I can learn a lot from resin printing, and that mild exposure to fumes will be worth it
I also used to downplay the (M)SLA printers as being too much hassle for my (mostly functional) needs, compared to FFF. However when Marco Reps made a video about his Elegoo Mars ( th-cam.com/video/7OtvU9VcFmM/w-d-xo.html ), he used a transparent resin and showed off a hydraulic cylinder and some threads/piping printed into a part. That both blew and changed my mind about the applicability of these printers - imagine the possibilities in education!
Your led cube is driving me crazy. Please fix the burnt/disconnected row please! Jokes aside, interesting channel.
Yeah, it drives me crazy too.
Unfortunately that pin on the arduino can't be set output like the others, so it's always off, meaning it's always ground, meaning it messes up the patterns. So I made the choice to disconnect it.
I'll be making another one. Maybe it won't have the same problem.
Im using one since Friday, first matrix was great, first figure too, then everything get's stuck on the fep, had to change it already... looking all tutorials, videos, recommandations etc, etc, cannot find a way to solve it, it's a nightmare for now ;/
0:07
The biggest question is, how did you get here from being Dr. Oct (Alfred Molina) of DCU.
I think this kind of printer is best for figurines which I have no use for.
Why are you diluting the 91% iso? The reason for the commercial addition of water to get 70% is to improve its antibacterial and antiviral properties.
I don't think, for washing prints, that its anti-bacterial properties are much of a consideration.
I use it at 90%. Some people say to use the 70%. My point is it doesn't matter. You can dilute 90 to 70 if you wanted.
@@3dpprofessor Oh, I misunderstood somehow. I thought you said that YOU diluted it to 70% and I wondered why.
I find that mine fail to print every time. All I get on the print bed is a few supports and rafts, and the rest of the model is nowhere to be found aside from a few scraps left in the tank, so presumably they just didn't cure at all :S
Have you fiddled with your cure time settings? Sounds like you need to add a second per layer.
I got same problem, it fix itself when I update the printer connecting it to the wifi. I bought almost a month ago and I have troubles since then, I'm haven't change the settings yet I'm using standar creality resin tho, maybe i will have to with other brand. Good luck.
whats the best resin for this printer ?
That's an interesting question. I don't really know. That Creality resin with the settings on the bottle was definitely the easiest to get started with!
I enjoyed shooting my halot one with 100 rounds of 223 and ordering an elegloo mars. Their own slicer isn't compatible with the printer
i wish i had enough money to get into resin printing. Its just not as good of a deal for someone like me cause i like medium to large sized prints and i can get a 200 dollar fdm that is twice as large as its resin equivalent(price wise)
how is the smell ?
Toxic. Use only in a well ventilated area.
You missed the breathing protection as highly recommended on the MSDS sheets for all resins. Like you said it is Toxic, actually provable links to health problems toxic. According to the required by law MSDS sheets that are available for anyone to read, safety in this home application should never be over looked.
True. Fortunately, most people have 100 of these around these days.
@@3dpprofessor unfortunately volatile compounds don’t even stutter when going through and around any of those make. Organic respirators should be a requirement per the owners manual of the printers, then it will be up to the operator to decide what they will do.
The current system is the pretending they don’t know what resin you will put in it. The resin sold separately because it is toxic has its Material Safty Data Sheet which outlines the need for a respirator. It should not be viewed as a separate from the owners manual, the MSDS is the user manual for any chemicals.
I do not want to put this on your shoulders to bare any response ability for sharing this information. My main concern is there are only two channels that address this issue with the full transparency it requires.
I am very pro any tools for anyone who will use them responsibly (guns included). Unfortunately the resin printing community doesn’t push the safety rules first and foremost like other dangerous item communities do… and as I continue to ramble into the digital either where my impact is almost nonexistent… thank you for your consideration of the subject.
Love your channel and style, keep up the great work!
Just a nitpick, but you should never store a chemical in a drinking water bottle. Even if its marked, it only takes an unobservant second to get a mouthful of a toxic chemical. Working with other resins and things, ive seen it happen too many times were someone lazily stored something like acetone in a bottle/ cup we would normally drink out of and almost take a big gulp.
That's a good point.
To be fair, I don't store them in the water bottles, I only put them there because it's a clear bottle and I can use it to cure the resin out of it for cleaning. I generally store it in bottles that's its better meant for. But that's a good point and I will bring that up in the future.
@@3dpprofessor Understandable. Its nice to do for convenience. Hence people doing it in a "on the job" application. My mind just goes back too a guy we had to take to the ER for chemical inhalation when he went to take a drink. He got his hands on it faster than anyone could say "hey thats not water".
I just feel its important to mention when I see it. I do like your videos though! they are very informative. Keep up the great work!
No matter what i do i keep getting mixed results, mostly failures.
I have very few prints for 2 kg of resin.
I found a little PTFE grease on the FEP helps increase my success rate.
It's the slowest printer on the market !
Interesting. Is it slow because layer cure times are slow, or is the Z-Axis motor slower than others?
@@3dpprofessor 12s rest time :D
It doesn't come from slice or printer's settings.
I already use a Creality LD-002H and an Anycubic Photon Mono 4K.
In Halot One settings you can't make less than 1s rest time while other printers handle 0.
Even with the lowest you'll get 12s rest time at each layer.
12s doing nothing after the platform returned in resin.
Absolutely anoying.
12s rest time !
Lets slice something and run it without resin in the vat and you'll see.
12s rest time + exposure + some time moving
The slowest resin printer !
@@3dpprofessor The HalotOne firmware is strange
It takes the bottom exposure as rest time and makes it shorter a little bit on 40 layers.
You start with the same rest time as the bottom exposure even with a 0 rest time in the slice.
It makes the printer really slow.
now with corona, alcohol is even more pricier
Sent me 3d printing if you dont need it bro i well pay it for you
Goodness you're still below 100k. How do you cope?
Ah... I'm good. Yeah. I'm fine with it.
You need to play with Tinting your resin
Yes. Yes I do.
Wow, not a single hands on thing mentioned. Didn't shows the software. Nothing but praise, which is fine except every other video on YT shows concerning issues with firmware and software. Yeah, so even with 10% discount, it's not worth at this price.
Holy shyte dude! That's a lot of work just for a print.
That's resin.
Get a wifi extender
The exactly layout of my setup doesn't quite allow for that. One day I'll run a cable out there.
If anything all this craps just a money make rather then a hobby
The word printer needs to be dropped by manufacturers and just kept for the (ink) printer market. I prefer to call these Resin Lightform Fabricators.
Initial 3 minutes of blah-blah... Speed it up, man, get to the point!!!
It can print optically transparent things, and I like it for that.