This is gonna be great help for me as I was lucky enough to get me a 725 at a sale this past weekend. She is complete, just needs some good going over and some TLC and this video will sure help me when I ever get to the wiring! Thanks so much for sharing, great show me video, like to have things pointed out to me! Take care!
That's why I do them Luth! I'm glad this video will help. Theres dozens more on these tractors, so root around on my channel for more helpful videos. Cheers! Zip~
Hey Zippo! Loved the video, I have 4 725’s two run even though one has a blown rear and two don’t. I’m going to start restoring the two that run they are both in great condition but both leak gear oil I’m looking forward to the projects and this video definitely helps! Thank you!
po dunc, thank you very much for that information. I didn't stop to explain the reasons why a regulator needs polarized, so I'm glad you chimed in there for all to read. Cheers!!
I typically use 14 gauge wire to the regulator and a standard automotive type battery cable for the Starter/Generator. Just remember.....Battery post on the Regulator to the positive terminal of the battery. This wire is what charges your battery, so make sure it's on the pole of the starter button that is connected to the battery and not the pole that goes to the starter/generator. Take it easy Tyler!! Glad I could help!!
Thanks for the fast reply Zip, I will ck the videos...I cleaned the regulator contacts with light sand paper and got ignition...I use your videos quite often as they are spot on with adjustments.......Thank again Semper Fi
As always Great video. I learned something new. What really need though is a all original views of the wiring. I am trying to wire my garden mark as Original as possible. I know they used wire looms on some of the wiring .That is what I need. If you understand me I tend to confuse people. Thanks David
This video is exactly what ive been looking for! I just picked up a simplicity landlord 3310v and it is a wiring nightmare as far as the starting generator and regulator go. I cant even call whats on there now a regulator. It looks almost like an egg with a ton of spliced wires coming off it. The guy that had it before I did rigged this whole setup and its a nightmare. Ive added this video to my favorites and I will use it a lot when I go to put everything back together. Great videos thanks!!
Just bought my first Simplicity 2012. I had to use your wiring video and got it working. I have to clean the carb but no problem. The big deal is the Bevel Gear box. Got some work to do on that. The output shaft is very loose.
Good day, I recently purchaced a 3314V. It came with a bulldozer blade, 48" deck, single bottom plow, cultivator, and roto tiller attachments. So far all works great, except I can not figure out how to hook the deck up to the power lift mechanism. Any comments or videos would be much appreciated. Your other videos have helped greatly.
You are correct! Bat to Gen to polarize. Expect it to spark and possibly turn the engine over when you do this. It's normal, so just make sure you're no where near the starter when you polarize. Looking forward to hearing that you're all up and running!!
Ok that clears it up.I have a big foot starter switch and I'm thinking I might be able to use the regulator from a Beetle I tore down for parts for my '71. It looks similar. If not, a few of the local guys do have old regulators around. If I really have to, I can bite the bullet and buy one new.
It is wired the same exact way with the same wires connecting to the same places. It's a little different only in the engines orientation being a vertical shaft instead of horizontal. Gen to Gen, Bat to Bat and "F" to "F". Don't forget to polarize the regulator with a short wire to short circuit between the Bet and Gen. Never short the engine from the Field to any other pole on the Regulator or Starter Generator. Cheers!
great video zippo . i favorited this one cause i suck at electrical work . lol only thing you left out was correct wire gauges in case your building new harness. do more videos like this on wiring . thumbs up from 500.
@Cod4Killa07 Do you mean a Starter for a Cub Cadet? If it had a Delco Remy Starter Generator, then about any similar starter generator will work as long as it's poled to turn the correct direction.
Excellent video on the wiring very helpful. I've learned so much watching your videos. I have a question I have a 1963 64 Simplicity landlord 101 I got a new battery for it. it will start to turn over but wont start the tractor, could my starter belt be too tight? It starts when I use the hand pull. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks.
It's more likely that the starter generator is in need of repair. After 50 years, the bushings tend to wear out and when they do, the result is the armature that rides on the bushings gets pulled into the outer frame of the S/G and keeps it from spinning the engine over. Once the engine is started however, the S/G turns to charging mode so there is no force pulling on the bushing other than the belt tension. You might try loosening the belt a little, but if I were you, I would find a reputable automotive electrical shop to look at the S/G for you or source a replacement. Zip~
@ZippoVarga being positive ground and slightly different than the conversion i had researched i kinda had to modify the wiring to meet my needs and make the system function properly. now it charges fully automatically i can actually watch the guage jump from high to low charge by itself and i did have to polarize my gen to get it charging. its easy once you do it once or twice and get a feel for how the whole thing works.
Awesome video! I have a '64 725. All original and stock. This is just what i needed for wiring my lights. One question I hope you can help my with regarding the lights. Will my charging system have enough output for two 50 watt halogen lights? I'm not sure what the amp draw will be or even how to find out. I know these tractors originally had one light in the middle (roughly 35 watt) but that will interfere with my snow blower chute. Looking forward to your thoughts. Thanks Dave
For sure, just took a peek at mine, I think a rewire maybe in the cards, and I noticed a white wire going into the to points area is cracked clean but touching, this must be the kill wire.
@slowride55 You got it Tyler! What ever you hook up, whether it be a horn or lights, you will just make sure the horn or light is grounded to the engine or frame of the tractor, then run one wire to the regulator and the other to the lights or horn.
I’m suddenly getting no spark you had mentioned in your video on the wire from the switch going down to the wire on the points cover mine is like that but you talked about it grounding the points out and the wires are hooked to the cover in the cover and that is grounded so I guess I’m confused. I’m not sure if it’s wired correctly
So if i want to put lights or a horn on the 725.... I hook up a toggle or push button switch with 2 poles. I wire the lights or horn to one prong on the switch, and then run a wire from the other pole of the switch to the batt terminal on the regulator?
Hey again Zippo. The regulator I bought is a little different. it has, left to right, in this order, "L" "BAT" and "F". Would "L" be my gen position? I assume if that's the case then I tap that piece of wire across the "L" and "BAT" poles to polarize it. Had my starter working today, wings that engine over like a champ!
Ok question. You're saying run the lights to the battery post on the regulator correct? How is the regulator regulating the current if you attaching it to the battery side? Wouldn't that technically be the same as if it were hooked directly to the battery? Why not just run directly to the battery and put a fusable link inline?
Hey Zippo, hope all is well, I sure enjoy watching your videos. I have a B 1 AC, I was wondering of you have the aftermarket axle wheel oil seal part #.
If you connect the battery post on the regular to the generator post of the generator won’t it try to crank over the starter because the generator side is also the starting side?
Ok, so as I understand it, you've just got a starter button that's heavy enough to handle the current to the starter so no need for a solenoid?Or is the regulator acting as a solenoid?Also, when I polarize the regulator, that wire I use to bridge the two connections, do I just arc the connections and remove the wire, or leave it on there permanently?
Yea there is a terminal on the underside of the regulator. It's not marked or anything. So assuming that's the "gen" position, I go from "gen" to "bat" to polarize? Anyhow, got my parts rounded up including a good heavy foot switch. Now it's just waiting for some warmer weather and I should be able to get on this. After that I need to come up with some running boards and move the seat up and back. With the 23-D in place of a Honda 5HP it should keep the front end down.
I didn't word my question very well. If at all possible, I'd like to set up my charge indicator to where when I turn the key on (before the engine starts), a red light illuminates with it similar to what it would on an older car without a voltmeter. Basically no charge=light on. System charging=light out.
I have a 725 I'm wiring, with the one wire key switch, does it connect to the chassis or the points, if so, would it connect to the condensor or the points? Thanks.
@Cod4Killa07 The best way if you don't have a spark tester is to take the plug out, lay it on the top of the engine with the coil end plugged onto the top of the spark plug and crank the engine over. A bright blue spark should jump across the plug gap. I have a couple videos on checking spark that shows another means to check spark.
The coil should not be hooked up to anything but the points and spark plug. Then one wire only to the kill switch. No other wires to the engine at all. The Starter, starter solenoid and regulator work harmoniously BUT independent of the electrical workings of the engine. Keep this in mind when you are wiring everything up. Hope this helps!
what ignition switch can i use? THE switch i have has g/b/m/s/L terminal. would i be able to use this switch if so how? or should i get another switch? IF SO What switch? thanks trying to wire up my bolens 1050.
Zippo, thanks for the info...I have a 67 AC B-10 and when I bought it , the owner had installed a external coil and regulater...Could you show how the wiring would be for that, it ran when I got it but no fire to the plug now
I've got videos already posted with external coil set up. Just search my videos and you should find them. If they don't answer your question, please let me know. Cheers!! Zip~
with all wires hooked up and ready to go, use a scrap piece of wire to polarize and only hold it on there for a couple seconds. Just enough to set the regulator and S/G up to charge. No solenoid, and the regulator doesn't act as a solenoid. Just use heavy battery wires to the starter button and if you can't find a starter button like the one on this video, they're available on ebay and other places.
I guess I'm kinda confused on the regulator wiring and polarizing the regulator. You said a wire from the battery or start switch should go to the battery terminal of the regulator but the tractor in the video doesn't have a wire to the battery terminal and the tractor I just bought doesn't either. Also do I need to polarise the regulator when I replace the battery? Thanks
When you flash the regulator, it's a one time and done. Just use the BAT terminal on the regulator and touch it to the GEN terminal for a second. This will pair the Starter Generator and Regulator. The battery + wire from the battery connects to the GEN post of the Starter it self, then the BAT wire from the Regulator goes through the Ammeter to the battery. (If so equipped). Once you pair the regulator to the Starter Generator, test the voltage at the battery with the engine off, then when running. There should be a notable increase but the voltage should not exceed 14.4 Volts. I hope this helps. Zip~
I recently bought a 1961 allis chalmers b1 and It needs a new ring and its missing the generator and regulator any ideas on where I can get these parts from. Thank you and keep up the videos
Zippo, I'm am having a hard time getting spark. I have a 717 with an on/off switch. The push button starter works fine but I am at a lost as to how to hook up the 2 wire on of switch. I keep blowing the fuse. Am I correct to say that the wire going to the condenser needs to be 12v positive? At one point I thought I had it wired up correctly without the fuse blowing but I had no spark. The magneto was recently replaced. Really any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm a bit confused. Does the engine have the correct magneto under the flywheel and I assume you're still running points? If so, No....no wires go to the condenser/points except the wire from the magneto and your kill wire. No + battery power should be connected at all anywhere on the ignition system. Only engines that use an automotive type canister coil will use battery power. Zip~
There should be a wire connection point under the regulator. This is where the "gen" wire goes. The "L" is your load terminal which is used for any accessories like lights or a cigarette lighter and a single wire goes from the "bat" terminal to the batteries positive lead. Let me know if the regulator you got has the terminal under the regulator.
Hey Zip, still working on my B-10...Cleaning it up after using I noticed the wiring on my regulator..The center and outer terminal wires go to one of the terminals on the Starter/generator...not sure what to make of this...if needed I could show picture,,,help Thanks Tony
Hi Tony. Take the screws off the terminals and there should be letters on them. Follow this video once you know which terminal has what marking on it. Should be an F, G or Gen and either an A or L and if there are only three terminals on the side of the regulator, then there is a fourth on the bottom that will read BAT. F is field which goes to the terminal on the S/G with an "F" stamped near it, the BAT terminal goes to the positive battery terminal, the G or Gen goes to the other S/G terminal along with a battery cable from the positive side of the battery. The "A or L" terminal is used for Accessories or additional Load, like lights or electric PTO and the like. Pretty strait forward. Once you get things wired up correctly, follow this video to Polarize the Regulator and S/G, and you should be in business. Cheers! Zip~
woulds trans out of a mid 60s landlord be a compatible replacment for a 1959-1961 model 700 or 725,,, my 725s trans took a crap no more reverse and ive got a landlord thats pretty well parted out but trans is in it and is good so would work in my simplicity 725
From 1958-1970 with the exception of the addition of a key start and solenoid on the 1970 all the wiring is basically the same, yes. Cheers! And the carb looks great!
I know that was a lot to say but I would buy it I struggle with just what you have been saying on my tractors a step by step on this and do a polarize on it
The best way I can think to do this is to run the light off the "L" pole of the regulator and then ground the other wire to the chassis. When you start it and it begins to charge, the light will go from dim to bright. If you lose charging capabilities the light will dim out on you. To wire an actual gen light requires a module that prevents over loading to the light it self and it also self diagnoses and shuts the light off if there's a problem.
I have a cub 129 thats not charging .. I rebuilt the generator , it works great to start and it will charge till I get off the start position then it won't charge anymore.. another words its not getting 12 volts to the Armature pole on the generator as soon as I let it go back from start to run position there is no longer 12 volts on that pole and immediately it quits putting out 25 volts ac on the field side ... I got continuity from the GEN pole on regulator to the armature pole and field pole, and continuity from field pole on regulator to field pole on generator.... and battery plus ➕ to regulator BAT. pole .... what am I missing? Is the regulator bad ? Why am I not getting 12 volts to my armature side when in run position
Hey zippo I have a gas golf cart when I got it some body took the voltage regulator off so I bought an aftermarket one the wires on it has a , IG, F, and an E I'm not sure how to wire it through my starter, generator if u could plz HELP that would be awesome!!..
@vega196423 Which voltage regulator depends on the type of starter/generator. Horizontal shaft Briggs used mostly 3 poll regulators after 1963. Before 1963 the starter/generator was a short frame and used a two poll regulator. The two pole for the short frame is #122044 and lone frame #122193. If you don't have the stock regulator, tell NAPA it MUST be a 40amp or less regulator with Bat/Gen/Field/Acc poles on the regulator. This will work with the majority of all starter generator run engines.
Man, this is a GREAT video! I do have a question, if I may? I'm currently "restoring" (to working order) an old Mahindra 475-DI tractor. The Generator has 3 terminals on it: E - F - D. I know the "F" is field, but what are the other two? Also, I ordered a new regulator for it and the terminals are listed as "LIGHT-BATTERY-FIELD-ARMATURE". Again, I understand the Battery and Field, but not exactly sure with the other two? Anyways, your video has already been a tremendous help!
@shadeyshader It will bolt right up and all the linkages are the same. The easiest way to do this swap is to remove the drive shaft, yolk that the drive shaft mounts to, the 4 bolts that hold the bevel gear box to the frame and all associated linkages. This is about an hour process with the right tools. Best of luck to you!
Zippo, for some reason I keep burning up my coil and it's getting expensive. I was reading through the comments. I have the voltage reg and solenoid w/ starter generator. My question is why do I keep smoking my coil. Is it because i'm using the solenoid?
It's more involved than in this video John. This video is geared towards the single push button ignition and one wire key switch. There are other videos showing how to correctly wire a solenoid ignition and key system. Hope this helps. Zip~
HI Zippo, Is there a source for wiring diagrams for these older simplicity and allis tractors? I have an old 3415s with a key start which wont shut off even though I just bought a new key switch for it?
hey zippo ..when i press the start button i get spark from positive post on battery and smoke coming. from none field side post on starter gen ..what should i look for first ..im not to savy on engine work and am learning ..any help will b great
It sounds like you've worn out a bearing on the starter generator and the armature is making contact with the frame. I would source a new Starter/Generator. Zip~
Help Zippo, I transplanted a cast iron 16hp into my landlord 101. I can’t get the spark to die with the kill wire. I tried a jumper wire straight to ground, but it does not kill the spark. The engine has a newer coil, or so the previous owner told me. The engine runs like a top, but I can’t shut it off for some reason, any thoughts?
Yep...if it's got a newer Magnetron, which eliminates the points, the single wire coming off the new Magnetron is your kill spot. Look at the backing plate for the blower housing behind the carburetor. There should be an insulated stud there. If the previous owner wired it correctly, you should be able to attach a wire to that insulated stud/terminal and kill the engine from there. If they didn't wire it correctly, you'll need to take the engine back out, pull the blower housing and connect a single solid strand wire to the blade on the Magnetron/coil, then attach it to the insulated stud, then use that stud to run a single wire to your kill switch or key switch. In the mean time, you can attach a wire to the tip of the spark plug where the plug wire attaches and run a switch to that, with the terminating end going to ground in order to kill the engine. Or...you can use the latter as a more permanent means of shutting the engine down. Essentially, when you attach the wire to the Magnetron/Coil blade, you're doing the same thing as grounding the tip of the spark plug to ground. So no damage will come from doing this. Hope this helps! Cheers! Zip~
I think what happened is the guy installed a magnetron coil, but didn’t remove the points from the engine, making me think the kill wire would work like my other engine. Thanks a lot for your response
Do you mean a single post key switch with a push button start? The single post is where the kill wire coming from the points would attach. It grounds the ignition when turned off and this is the correct set up for the machine. Zip~
@wckdkl0wn Coming off the Acc or BAT leg of the Regulator to power accessories will use the Starter/Generators charge first and the battery second. You can use the Battery directly if you wish, but if you have either a weak Starter/Generator or a faulty Regulator, then you will drain the battery with out knowing you have a problem. By wiring it the way I suggest, you will see the problem with the lights because they will dim on you. Thus giving you a heads up that something is wrong. Thanks!!
You must run a Regulator in order to charge the battery. Your local Napa can help you find the regulator you need. It's a 40 amp hr regulator, but you can use higher amperage regulators in a pinch. Best of luck to you.
As follows. Battery terminal on the Regulator to Ammeter (If so equipped) or to key switch (battery terminal on a standard key switch is identified by a "B"). If you're using a push button start like the one on this tractor, the Battery wire coming from the regulator will go to to the post on the back of the push button starter that is connected directly to the Battery "+" Post. Ultimately, in any wiring situation, the end result is the battery terminal of the regulator must end up being capable to charge the battery. So, push button or keyed ignition with a starter solenoid....use the terminal that goes directly to the battery "+". Zip~
You're correct, but that lead has no power going to it once you start the engine. The other smaller gauge wire has to also be connected to the GEN side of the S/G and pass through the Regulator in order to charge the battery. Hope this makes sense. Zip~
Hello Zippo, Ray here, I have a delco remy Gen/starter 12 volt 110-1689 would you happen to know what Voltage regulator I need for it and what is the approximate current output? Thank you!
These were between 24 amps and 40 amps depending. Just search for Delco Starter Generator Regulator and you'll get dozens of results. The actual part number for the regulator is Delco-Remy 1118988. Zip~
Hi Zippo. Love your videos. Would this video info apply also to a 1965 sim landlord 101 with a 10hp briggs with magnetron ing.(no points or cond.)Thanks for the help
So how would a fella go about wiring in an "idiot light" that illuminates when the engine is not running/gen, not charging? I have an old Bolens 1050 that has a hole in the dash for a charge indicator light instead of an ammeter.
@brian242 There may be two wires coming from under the points cover......one would be the kill wire and runs to the dash and the other would run into the blower housing behind the carb. Hit me up if you hit a road block. Cheers!!
I got a simplicity 700 with a model 19 engine and now I can get the charging system working. thanks. you wouldn't happen to know the head gasket number would you
wish i had a wiring made simple video to watch when i redid the wiring on my john deere l. its got about the most simple electric system going. 6v positive ground with a manual charging system. but someone had attempted to wire in a regulator to make the charging system automatic. i had to heavily reasearch how the original set up worked and how to convert a similar setup to charge with a cutout regulator. it took awhile but i got it working properly. now i dont have to switch the charging rate
Your guess is as good as mine without more information. Each lead on the regulator will have a letter designation on it that tells you what it is with an internet search. Good luck with it Zach! Sorry I couldn't be more help, but I can't drive blind. Cheers! Zip~
@500passwords 14 gauge is sufficient for most rewiring tasks on these older machines. If you have a specific need just say the word and I'll do my best to help you out.
@mikedasgerman Actually, the starter generators were an added option on these old machines. Rope starting them off the Bevel Gear Box works great as long as their tuned well. Check my recent video pull starting my tractors to see how easily they will start. Ebay is a good place to find decent used Starter Generators and a couple web sights to check out are Simpletractors dot commm and michaelstractors dot commm. Best of luck!!
@64gthawk Sorry for the delayed reply! I have not been able to get to all my comments for a while. The max Amperage your regulator is set for is 45 amps. The lights won't draw anywhere near that and the starter generator should keep up just fine if it's working properly. Best of luck with your project Dave!! Cheers!!
No. This is when you are starting with items that either haven't been used in quite some time, or when putting a new regulator in place. If you ever come across a "no charge" situation, try polarizing the regulator again before replacing parts. Cheers!
6/26/2023 Great job explaining the electrical on these old lawn tractors!!! Very helpful Zippo!!
thank u for the quick run down, me wires. excellent advisery, Scotty
super informative! I have the same setup in my old 7016 and it will help me figure out how to get it back running. Thanks Zippo!!
My pleasure Adam! Zip~
This is gonna be great help for me as I was lucky enough to get me a 725 at a sale this past weekend. She is complete, just needs some good going over and some TLC and this video will sure help me when I ever get to the wiring! Thanks so much for sharing, great show me video, like to have things pointed out to me! Take care!
That's why I do them Luth! I'm glad this video will help. Theres dozens more on these tractors, so root around on my channel for more helpful videos. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Yep, I plan on doin some rootin around! Thx again!
Will do I appreciate your time and your videos are awesome stay up 🤜
You seem very familiar with these tractors and have much more knowledge than I about electrical things. LOVE your videos!!!
Hey Zippo! Loved the video, I have 4 725’s two run even though one has a blown rear and two don’t. I’m going to start restoring the two that run they are both in great condition but both leak gear oil I’m looking forward to the projects and this video definitely helps! Thank you!
po dunc, thank you very much for that information. I didn't stop to explain the reasons why a regulator needs polarized, so I'm glad you chimed in there for all to read. Cheers!!
I am here and I am learning this stuff
Zippo love the video, I am rewiring my SS14 Sears and this video helped out alot thanks... awesome job
Just fixed 3 things that were wrong on a B1 i just aquired. Thanks Zippo
THANK YOU!!! you make it so simple
I typically use 14 gauge wire to the regulator and a standard automotive type battery cable for the Starter/Generator. Just remember.....Battery post on the Regulator to the positive terminal of the battery. This wire is what charges your battery, so make sure it's on the pole of the starter button that is connected to the battery and not the pole that goes to the starter/generator. Take it easy Tyler!! Glad I could help!!
Thanks for the fast reply Zip, I will ck the videos...I cleaned the regulator contacts with light sand paper and got ignition...I use your videos quite often as they are spot on with adjustments.......Thank again Semper Fi
As always Great video. I learned something new. What really need though is a all original views of the wiring. I am trying to wire my garden mark as Original as possible. I know they used wire looms on some of the wiring .That is what I need. If you understand me I tend to confuse people.
Thanks David
+David H Ah, ok David! If you are on Facebook, look me up there. I can send you a file on your machine with the wiring diagram. Cheers!! Zip~
Thank you so many times This is what we have been looking for a long time...
This video is exactly what ive been looking for! I just picked up a simplicity landlord 3310v and it is a wiring nightmare as far as the starting generator and regulator go. I cant even call whats on there now a regulator. It looks almost like an egg with a ton of spliced wires coming off it. The guy that had it before I did rigged this whole setup and its a nightmare. Ive added this video to my favorites and I will use it a lot when I go to put everything back together. Great videos thanks!!
Just bought my first Simplicity 2012. I had to use your wiring video and got it working. I have to clean the carb but no problem. The big deal is the Bevel Gear box. Got some work to do on that. The output shaft is very loose.
Good day, I recently purchaced a 3314V. It came with a bulldozer blade, 48" deck, single bottom plow, cultivator, and roto tiller attachments. So far all works great, except I can not figure out how to hook the deck up to the power lift mechanism. Any comments or videos would be much appreciated. Your other videos have helped greatly.
You are correct! Bat to Gen to polarize. Expect it to spark and possibly turn the engine over when you do this. It's normal, so just make sure you're no where near the starter when you polarize. Looking forward to hearing that you're all up and running!!
Ok that clears it up.I have a big foot starter switch and I'm thinking I might be able to use the regulator from a Beetle I tore down for parts for my '71. It looks similar. If not, a few of the local guys do have old regulators around. If I really have to, I can bite the bullet and buy one new.
It is wired the same exact way with the same wires connecting to the same places. It's a little different only in the engines orientation being a vertical shaft instead of horizontal. Gen to Gen, Bat to Bat and "F" to "F". Don't forget to polarize the regulator with a short wire to short circuit between the Bet and Gen. Never short the engine from the Field to any other pole on the Regulator or Starter Generator. Cheers!
Hahaha great job brother 👍
great video zippo .
i favorited this one cause i suck at electrical work . lol
only thing you left out was correct wire gauges in case your building new harness.
do more videos like this on wiring .
thumbs up from 500.
@Cod4Killa07 Do you mean a Starter for a Cub Cadet? If it had a Delco Remy Starter Generator, then about any similar starter generator will work as long as it's poled to turn the correct direction.
thanks for your help I understand how it works
ok thank u ..keep up the great vids
Excellent video on the wiring very helpful. I've learned so much watching your videos. I have a question I have a 1963 64 Simplicity landlord 101 I got a new battery for it. it will start to turn over but wont start the tractor, could my starter belt be too tight? It starts when I use the hand pull. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks.
It's more likely that the starter generator is in need of repair. After 50 years, the bushings tend to wear out and when they do, the result is the armature that rides on the bushings gets pulled into the outer frame of the S/G and keeps it from spinning the engine over. Once the engine is started however, the S/G turns to charging mode so there is no force pulling on the bushing other than the belt tension. You might try loosening the belt a little, but if I were you, I would find a reputable automotive electrical shop to look at the S/G for you or source a replacement. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga awesome ill check into that. thank you so much for all the advice and help
@ZippoVarga being positive ground and slightly different than the conversion i had researched i kinda had to modify the wiring to meet my needs and make the system function properly. now it charges fully automatically i can actually watch the guage jump from high to low charge by itself and i did have to polarize my gen to get it charging. its easy once you do it once or twice and get a feel for how the whole thing works.
Found it worked great you the man
in 1:39 what is that wire going to
As said in the video, it goes to the Voltage Regulator's Battery terminal. Zip~
Great video
Awesome video! I have a '64 725. All original and stock. This is just what i needed for wiring my lights. One question I hope you can help my with regarding the lights. Will my charging system have enough output for two 50 watt halogen lights? I'm not sure what the amp draw will be or even how to find out. I know these tractors originally had one light in the middle (roughly 35 watt) but that will interfere with my snow blower chute. Looking forward to your thoughts. Thanks Dave
For sure, just took a peek at mine, I think a rewire maybe in the cards, and I noticed a white wire going into the to points area is cracked clean but touching, this must be the kill wire.
@slowride55 You got it Tyler! What ever you hook up, whether it be a horn or lights, you will just make sure the horn or light is grounded to the engine or frame of the tractor, then run one wire to the regulator and the other to the lights or horn.
I’m suddenly getting no spark you had mentioned in your video on the wire from the switch going down to the wire on the points cover mine is like that but you talked about it grounding the points out and the wires are hooked to the cover in the cover and that is grounded so I guess I’m confused. I’m not sure if it’s wired correctly
THANKS a TON Sean!!!!! IT really helps. On the push button starter are the poles marked?
So if i want to put lights or a horn on the 725.... I hook up a toggle or push button switch with 2 poles. I wire the lights or horn to one prong on the switch, and then run a wire from the other pole of the switch to the batt terminal on the regulator?
Hey again Zippo. The regulator I bought is a little different. it has, left to right, in this order, "L" "BAT" and "F". Would "L" be my gen position? I assume if that's the case then I tap that piece of wire across the "L" and "BAT" poles to polarize it. Had my starter working today, wings that engine over like a champ!
Ok question. You're saying run the lights to the battery post on the regulator correct? How is the regulator regulating the current if you attaching it to the battery side? Wouldn't that technically be the same as if it were hooked directly to the battery? Why not just run directly to the battery and put a fusable link inline?
Hey Zippo, hope all is well, I sure enjoy watching your videos. I have a B 1 AC, I was wondering of you have the aftermarket axle wheel oil seal part #.
If you connect the battery post on the regular to the generator post of the generator won’t it try to crank over the starter because the generator side is also the starting side?
Yes....This flashing process is completing the circuit, but is necessary in order to pair the regulator to the battery and generator. Zip~
ZippoVarga but if the battery is connected to the gen wire it will crank the starter over
Ok, so as I understand it, you've just got a starter button that's heavy enough to handle the current to the starter so no need for a solenoid?Or is the regulator acting as a solenoid?Also, when I polarize the regulator, that wire I use to bridge the two connections, do I just arc the connections and remove the wire, or leave it on there permanently?
Yea there is a terminal on the underside of the regulator. It's not marked or anything. So assuming that's the "gen" position, I go from "gen" to "bat" to polarize? Anyhow, got my parts rounded up including a good heavy foot switch. Now it's just waiting for some warmer weather and I should be able to get on this. After that I need to come up with some running boards and move the seat up and back. With the 23-D in place of a Honda 5HP it should keep the front end down.
I didn't word my question very well. If at all possible, I'd like to set up my charge indicator to where when I turn the key on (before the engine starts), a red light illuminates with it similar to what it would on an older car without a voltmeter. Basically no charge=light on. System charging=light out.
I have a 725 I'm wiring, with the one wire key switch, does it connect to the chassis or the points, if so, would it connect to the condensor or the points? Thanks.
The condenser and points are both connected to the same terminal on the points, so it connects to both. Zip~
thanks!@@ZippoVarga
@Cod4Killa07 The best way if you don't have a spark tester is to take the plug out, lay it on the top of the engine with the coil end plugged onto the top of the spark plug and crank the engine over. A bright blue spark should jump across the plug gap. I have a couple videos on checking spark that shows another means to check spark.
The wire that goes from the bottom pole of the starter button that goes to the regulator, how big should it be?
The coil should not be hooked up to anything but the points and spark plug. Then one wire only to the kill switch. No other wires to the engine at all. The Starter, starter solenoid and regulator work harmoniously BUT independent of the electrical workings of the engine. Keep this in mind when you are wiring everything up. Hope this helps!
The wire going to condense r/point is ground?
what ignition switch can i use? THE switch i have has g/b/m/s/L terminal. would i be able to use this switch if so how? or should i get another switch? IF SO What switch? thanks trying to wire up my bolens 1050.
Zippo, thanks for the info...I have a 67 AC B-10 and when I bought it , the owner had installed a external coil and regulater...Could you show how the wiring would be for that, it ran when I got it but no fire to the plug now
I've got videos already posted with external coil set up. Just search my videos and you should find them. If they don't answer your question, please let me know. Cheers!! Zip~
with all wires hooked up and ready to go, use a scrap piece of wire to polarize and only hold it on there for a couple seconds. Just enough to set the regulator and S/G up to charge. No solenoid, and the regulator doesn't act as a solenoid. Just use heavy battery wires to the starter button and if you can't find a starter button like the one on this video, they're available on ebay and other places.
I guess I'm kinda confused on the regulator wiring and polarizing the regulator. You said a wire from the battery or start switch should go to the battery terminal of the regulator but the tractor in the video doesn't have a wire to the battery terminal and the tractor I just bought doesn't either. Also do I need to polarise the regulator when I replace the battery? Thanks
When you flash the regulator, it's a one time and done. Just use the BAT terminal on the regulator and touch it to the GEN terminal for a second. This will pair the Starter Generator and Regulator. The battery + wire from the battery connects to the GEN post of the Starter it self, then the BAT wire from the Regulator goes through the Ammeter to the battery.
(If so equipped). Once you pair the regulator to the Starter Generator, test the voltage at the battery with the engine off, then when running. There should be a notable increase but the voltage should not exceed 14.4 Volts. I hope this helps. Zip~
I recently bought a 1961 allis chalmers b1 and It needs a new ring and its missing the generator and regulator any ideas on where I can get these parts from. Thank you and keep up the videos
@ZippoVarga That makes sense now. Thank you for helping me understand that.
Do you gotta video explaining how to repair a voltage regulator like that one
Question , the wire that comes out of the points box should be connected to my coil . Correct?
Zippo, I'm am having a hard time getting spark. I have a 717 with an on/off switch. The push button starter works fine but I am at a lost as to how to hook up the 2 wire on of switch. I keep blowing the fuse. Am I correct to say that the wire going to the condenser needs to be 12v positive? At one point I thought I had it wired up correctly without the fuse blowing but I had no spark. The magneto was recently replaced. Really any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm a bit confused. Does the engine have the correct magneto under the flywheel and I assume you're still running points? If so, No....no wires go to the condenser/points except the wire from the magneto and your kill wire. No + battery power should be connected at all anywhere on the ignition system. Only engines that use an automotive type canister coil will use battery power. Zip~
There should be a wire connection point under the regulator. This is where the "gen" wire goes. The "L" is your load terminal which is used for any accessories like lights or a cigarette lighter and a single wire goes from the "bat" terminal to the batteries positive lead. Let me know if the regulator you got has the terminal under the regulator.
Hey Zip, still working on my B-10...Cleaning it up after using I noticed the wiring on my regulator..The center and outer terminal wires go to one of the terminals on the Starter/generator...not sure what to make of this...if needed I could show picture,,,help Thanks Tony
Hi Tony. Take the screws off the terminals and there should be letters on them. Follow this video once you know which terminal has what marking on it. Should be an F, G or Gen and either an A or L and if there are only three terminals on the side of the regulator, then there is a fourth on the bottom that will read BAT. F is field which goes to the terminal on the S/G with an "F" stamped near it, the BAT terminal goes to the positive battery terminal, the G or Gen goes to the other S/G terminal along with a battery cable from the positive side of the battery. The "A or L" terminal is used for Accessories or additional Load, like lights or electric PTO and the like. Pretty strait forward. Once you get things wired up correctly, follow this video to Polarize the Regulator and S/G, and you should be in business. Cheers! Zip~
ZippoVarga Thanks Zip...Love the vids....I love watching them....T-man
I hope you get her up and charging!
woulds trans out of a mid 60s landlord be a compatible replacment for a 1959-1961 model 700 or 725,,, my 725s trans took a crap no more reverse and ive got a landlord thats pretty well parted out but trans is in it and is good so would work in my simplicity 725
Are all symplicity models wired the same way ?
From 1958-1970 with the exception of the addition of a key start and solenoid on the 1970 all the wiring is basically the same, yes. Cheers! And the carb looks great!
I know that was a lot to say but I would buy it I struggle with just what you have been saying on my tractors a step by step on this and do a polarize on it
The best way I can think to do this is to run the light off the "L" pole of the regulator and then ground the other wire to the chassis. When you start it and it begins to charge, the light will go from dim to bright. If you lose charging capabilities the light will dim out on you. To wire an actual gen light requires a module that prevents over loading to the light it self and it also self diagnoses and shuts the light off if there's a problem.
I have a cub 129 thats not charging .. I rebuilt the generator , it works great to start and it will charge till I get off the start position then it won't charge anymore.. another words its not getting 12 volts to the Armature pole on the generator as soon as I let it go back from start to run position there is no longer 12 volts on that pole and immediately it quits putting out 25 volts ac on the field side ...
I got continuity from the GEN pole on regulator to the armature pole and field pole, and continuity from field pole on regulator to field pole on generator.... and battery plus ➕ to regulator BAT. pole .... what am I missing? Is the regulator bad ? Why am I not getting 12 volts to my armature side when in run position
Hey zippo I have a gas golf cart when I got it some body took the voltage regulator off so I bought an aftermarket one the wires on it has a , IG, F, and an E I'm not sure how to wire it through my starter, generator if u could plz HELP that would be awesome!!..
Contact the manufacturer. The letters you state are on the tabs doesn't make sense to me either. Sorry I can't be of more assistance. Zip~
@slowride55 No and they don't need to be. As long as you run the second smaller wire from the post that you connect the battery to it doesn't matter.
@TheBigspoon1 Glad it can help with other makes that used the Delco Starter Generator!!
@ZippoVarga pretty much, that and makesure your regulator says positive ground not negative ground on it. same with the gen and starter.
@vega196423 Which voltage regulator depends on the type of starter/generator. Horizontal shaft Briggs used mostly 3 poll regulators after 1963. Before 1963 the starter/generator was a short frame and used a two poll regulator. The two pole for the short frame is #122044 and lone frame #122193. If you don't have the stock regulator, tell NAPA it MUST be a 40amp or less regulator with Bat/Gen/Field/Acc poles on the regulator. This will work with the majority of all starter generator run engines.
Man, this is a GREAT video! I do have a question, if I may? I'm currently "restoring" (to working order) an old Mahindra 475-DI tractor. The Generator has 3 terminals on it: E - F - D. I know the "F" is field, but what are the other two? Also, I ordered a new regulator for it and the terminals are listed as "LIGHT-BATTERY-FIELD-ARMATURE". Again, I understand the Battery and Field, but not exactly sure with the other two? Anyways, your video has already been a tremendous help!
@shadeyshader It will bolt right up and all the linkages are the same. The easiest way to do this swap is to remove the drive shaft, yolk that the drive shaft mounts to, the 4 bolts that hold the bevel gear box to the frame and all associated linkages. This is about an hour process with the right tools. Best of luck to you!
Zippo, for some reason I keep burning up my coil and it's getting expensive. I was reading through the comments. I have the voltage reg and solenoid w/ starter generator. My question is why do I keep smoking my coil. Is it because i'm using the solenoid?
I have a 1973 homelite T-10. It's using a solenoid. Is the wiring the same as you've shown in this video?
It's more involved than in this video John. This video is geared towards the single push button ignition and one wire key switch. There are other videos showing how to correctly wire a solenoid ignition and key system. Hope this helps. Zip~
Where can you get a voltage regulator, is there an aftermarket that crosses over. like Az or Napa? Do you have any part #'s i could use.
My one tab on my voltage regulator doesn’t say gen it has an L is that the same thing
HI Zippo, Is there a source for wiring diagrams for these older simplicity and allis tractors? I have an old 3415s with a key start which wont shut off even though I just bought a new key switch for it?
Find me on Facebook and I'll send you the manual for your tractor which includes all the wiring. Cheers! Zip~
@1944johndeerel It is all in the learning curve my friend. Next time you will be prepared and well educated!! Thanks for the comment my Friend!!
hey zippo ..when i press the start button i get spark from positive post on battery and smoke coming. from none field side post on starter gen ..what should i look for first ..im not to savy on engine work and am learning ..any help will b great
It sounds like you've worn out a bearing on the starter generator and the armature is making contact with the frame. I would source a new Starter/Generator. Zip~
Help Zippo, I transplanted a cast iron 16hp into my landlord 101. I can’t get the spark to die with the kill wire. I tried a jumper wire straight to ground, but it does not kill the spark. The engine has a newer coil, or so the previous owner told me. The engine runs like a top, but I can’t shut it off for some reason, any thoughts?
Yep...if it's got a newer Magnetron, which eliminates the points, the single wire coming off the new Magnetron is your kill spot. Look at the backing plate for the blower housing behind the carburetor. There should be an insulated stud there. If the previous owner wired it correctly, you should be able to attach a wire to that insulated stud/terminal and kill the engine from there. If they didn't wire it correctly, you'll need to take the engine back out, pull the blower housing and connect a single solid strand wire to the blade on the Magnetron/coil, then attach it to the insulated stud, then use that stud to run a single wire to your kill switch or key switch. In the mean time, you can attach a wire to the tip of the spark plug where the plug wire attaches and run a switch to that, with the terminating end going to ground in order to kill the engine. Or...you can use the latter as a more permanent means of shutting the engine down. Essentially, when you attach the wire to the Magnetron/Coil blade, you're doing the same thing as grounding the tip of the spark plug to ground. So no damage will come from doing this. Hope this helps! Cheers! Zip~
I think what happened is the guy installed a magnetron coil, but didn’t remove the points from the engine, making me think the kill wire would work like my other engine.
Thanks a lot for your response
Keep me posted on your progress! Zip~
Zippo we have a B-1 AC and it has a one post ignition switch with a push button , how to check the switch?
Do you mean a single post key switch with a push button start? The single post is where the kill wire coming from the points would attach. It grounds the ignition when turned off and this is the correct set up for the machine. Zip~
Is there a way to test the switch to see if it is good we have no spark
@wckdkl0wn Coming off the Acc or BAT leg of the Regulator to power accessories will use the Starter/Generators charge first and the battery second. You can use the Battery directly if you wish, but if you have either a weak Starter/Generator or a faulty Regulator, then you will drain the battery with out knowing you have a problem. By wiring it the way I suggest, you will see the problem with the lights because they will dim on you. Thus giving you a heads up that something is wrong. Thanks!!
You must run a Regulator in order to charge the battery. Your local Napa can help you find the regulator you need. It's a 40 amp hr regulator, but you can use higher amperage regulators in a pinch. Best of luck to you.
Still a little confused.....what wire connects to the batt. terminal on the regulator?
As follows. Battery terminal on the Regulator to Ammeter (If so equipped) or to key switch (battery terminal on a standard key switch is identified by a "B"). If you're using a push button start like the one on this tractor, the Battery wire coming from the regulator will go to to the post on the back of the push button starter that is connected directly to the Battery "+" Post. Ultimately, in any wiring situation, the end result is the battery terminal of the regulator must end up being capable to charge the battery. So, push button or keyed ignition with a starter solenoid....use the terminal that goes directly to the battery "+". Zip~
ZippoVarga But doesn’t that wire (coming from the positive post on the push button starter)go to the gen post on the starter generator?
You're correct, but that lead has no power going to it once you start the engine. The other smaller gauge wire has to also be connected to the GEN side of the S/G and pass through the Regulator in order to charge the battery. Hope this makes sense. Zip~
ZippoVarga Thanks Zip! Got it all figured out, wired up and she charges great now! Thanks again for all your help!
Hello Zippo, Ray here, I have a delco remy Gen/starter 12 volt 110-1689 would you happen to know
what Voltage regulator I need for it and what is the approximate current output? Thank you!
These were between 24 amps and 40 amps depending. Just search for Delco Starter Generator Regulator and you'll get dozens of results. The actual part number for the regulator is Delco-Remy 1118988. Zip~
Hi Zippo. Love your videos. Would this video info apply also to a 1965 sim landlord 101 with a 10hp briggs with magnetron ing.(no points or cond.)Thanks for the help
Yep...same wiring up to the 1969 models. Zip~
So how would a fella go about wiring in an "idiot light" that illuminates when the engine is not running/gen, not charging? I have an old Bolens 1050 that has a hole in the dash for a charge indicator light instead of an ammeter.
@brian242 There may be two wires coming from under the points cover......one would be the kill wire and runs to the dash and the other would run into the blower housing behind the carb. Hit me up if you hit a road block. Cheers!!
I got a simplicity 700 with a model 19 engine and now I can get the charging system working. thanks. you wouldn't happen to know the head gasket number would you
27752 is your part number Jake. Zip~
Fantastic
wish i had a wiring made simple video to watch when i redid the wiring on my john deere l. its got about the most simple electric system going. 6v positive ground with a manual charging system. but someone had attempted to wire in a regulator to make the charging system automatic. i had to heavily reasearch how the original set up worked and how to convert a similar setup to charge with a cutout regulator. it took awhile but i got it working properly. now i dont have to switch the charging rate
So I have two extra wires on my regulator. One is on the underside and one is coming out the side of the regulator. What are those???
Your guess is as good as mine without more information. Each lead on the regulator will have a letter designation on it that tells you what it is with an internet search. Good luck with it Zach! Sorry I couldn't be more help, but I can't drive blind. Cheers! Zip~
Hey zippo I kinda inherited 2 alis-chalmers ,,I think B-1 1961 your wiring video is priceless. I am in quebec Canada and I will have questions
I have a lot of videos covering these tractors Daniel. Congratulations on your inheritance! Cheers! Zip~
Thanks again
Always welcome
@500passwords 14 gauge is sufficient for most rewiring tasks on these older machines. If you have a specific need just say the word and I'll do my best to help you out.
@mikedasgerman Actually, the starter generators were an added option on these old machines. Rope starting them off the Bevel Gear Box works great as long as their tuned well. Check my recent video pull starting my tractors to see how easily they will start. Ebay is a good place to find decent used Starter Generators and a couple web sights to check out are Simpletractors dot commm and michaelstractors dot commm. Best of luck!!
@64gthawk Sorry for the delayed reply! I have not been able to get to all my comments for a while. The max Amperage your regulator is set for is 45 amps. The lights won't draw anywhere near that and the starter generator should keep up just fine if it's working properly. Best of luck with your project Dave!! Cheers!!
@brian242 Thanks Brian! Quick and to the point!! Just the basics, but it'll get ya running! Cheers!!
No. This is when you are starting with items that either haven't been used in quite some time, or when putting a new regulator in place. If you ever come across a "no charge" situation, try polarizing the regulator again before replacing parts. Cheers!