Eheim Ecco Pro 300 (Amazon): geni.us/fC1wG Eheim Ecco Pro 300 (Ebay): ebay.to/2ruNIEB Biohome products: www.filterpro.co.uk Small mesh bags for media: geni.us/DtoexHC The Eheim Ecco 300 is a really nice filter with a secure locking mechanism and efficient use of space internally - plastic does not feel 'cheap' like it does on the new Pro 4 range of canister filters. Although the 'pre-filter' is not really needed it is a decent size to catch really heavy muck and save the foams from being prematurely clogged so it does help to extend maintenance times. In summary - a great little filter which makes provision for effective mechanical, biological and chemical filtration. When upgraded it should provide a full cycle for a normally stocked tropical community tank of around 150 litres (40 US gallons), heavily stocked tank of around 75 litres (20 US gallons) This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity - If you have a filter you'd like me to feature in a video then please contact me on: sales@filterpro.co.uk 07772848730 (Richard) Anyone who sends a filter will have it upgraded and returned to them for free and the only cost you will pay is how much it costs to ship it to me - I'm helping to boost your filter and the resulting videos will hopefully be useful to viewers all over the world so it's a win/win. *Please do not send any filters without contacting me first as I want to try and cover every type of filter, not 20 of the same make and model* Due to the high international shipping cost I am currently only taking filters from the UK but I'm hoping that as this series progresses a useful database of knowledge will be built up which will help viewers understand how their filters work, the limitations and the steps you could take to improve filtering capacity and efficiency. The goal with any filter is to try and achieve FULL CYCLE filtration which is the reduction in ammonia, nitrite AND nitrate - if you look anywhere online you'll see people tell you that the nitrogen cycle in an aquarium ends with the production of nitrate which is removed by regular (often large) water changes. That is HALF the cycle and is done by AEROBIC bacteria which favors highly oxygenated conditions and is very easy to grow on any surface. The last part of the cycle (reduction in nitrate) is completed by ANAEROBIC bacteria which favors an environment which is very low or devoid of oxygen. It takes filter media with a very specific internal structure to support both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to allow for full cycle filtration but a suitably sized, well set up filter, will allow the full cycle to complete which results in more stable water conditions and less water changes (typically 10% every 1-2 weeks). Canister filters will generally offer the best provision for filter media but even internals can be significantly improved to boost water quality and fish health. The following videos will be useful to anyone interested in learning more about filtration, bacteria and making the conditions for your fish as good as possible: Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c Bacteria and filter media: goo.gl/123gAF How to clean an aquarium: goo.gl/bPMhvh Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: goo.gl/pXgqVj Check out my channel for hundreds of videos on a wide range of my hobbies - many of the videos have educational content so if you have enjoyed any give them the thumbs up and share. This channel is purely a hobby for me so I will never ask viewers to donate money for any of my projects or charge anyone for information - information should be shared freely and I certainly don't consider myself an 'expert' in anything I pursue as a hobby so please do your own research, never accept anything as 'fact', reject anyone claiming to be some sort of authority or 'expert' and make your own minds up about anything you wish to study. We all are on a long path of learning......... If you've enjoyed this video please check out the playlists on my channel for hundreds more - on a variety of subjects. Feel free to share or link any of my videos on facebook, twitter, forums etc. for the benefit of anyone you think may also enjoy watching. See you next time. Pondguru RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS ON AMAZON.com: goo.gl/jMaBWy INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/pondguru_outdoors/ FILMING EQUIPMENT: Panasonic HC-VX870 HD camcorder geni.us/3UwE +Rode stereo microphone: geni.us/4OL +Rode 'deadcat' mic cover: geni.us/1pmn JVC Everio quad proof HD camcorder: geni.us/e09e +Rode 'deadcat' mic cover (opened up and held between tripod and camera base) geni.us/dee24 Zomei Z666 tripod: geni.us/1a1af3 Manfrotto MTPIXI-B PIXI mini tripod: geni.us/87f7
Just bought this for my heavily planted 90ltr tank that I’m setting up I’ll be setting the filter up exactly like this, I ordered a few kilos of the bio home ultimate last night from you, glad I found this before I made the mistake of following the manufactures instructions as it’s my first time using canister filters. Just got to wait for my co2 kit to arrive and for the tropica stockist to get some plants in stock, bloody lockdown screwing everything up.
Really enjoying this series. Not only do we see how to maximise the 'hidden' potential of these filters, it also acts to help identify good/bad design as well as quality of manufacture and make informed choices when it come to selecting one for our tanks. Vital as these are expensive purchases.
I'm glad you enjoy the videos - it's not a series I'm expecting mad views on but the point of it is exactly as you outlined: to take a look at the various filters out there and improve them whenever possible. There are already a nation of vlogging stuff out there which has no real benefit to viewers so I'm really fortunate to be in a position to do something different, FOR my viewers, instead of the easy route of exploiting them for views and earnings as I'm well aware of what it is like to be in a position where I want to learn about specific products or processes and all I can find are fools talking nonsense, lol Eventually this series will be a small part of something worldwide and massive which I'm really hoping will be of huge benefit for fish keepers all over the world.
You are my hero :) God bless ya man ! Been running two of these on a 396-ltr tank for six... yes six... years. Added & modified stages of internal media along the way, inc. Seachem Purigen... fish been happy, but thanks to you they're gonna be happier... can't thank you enough.
I know this video is old but for anyone here now. I’ve just done this in my eheim filter after having it for 2/3 years running on the standard media and I’ve just followed this video (though used alfagrog instead of biohome) and I can say it definitely looks like there’s a difference. I’ll update in a couple months if I remember.
Did this to my Eheim Ecco Pros 2036 and 2236. Both canisters are packed with BioHome Ultimate which house the beneficial bacteria keeping my 75 gallon tank free of ammonia and nitrite. Thank you Richard (pondguru) and GreatWave Engineering, US Distributor of Biohome® Media
Just set up my ecco pro 3000. By placing each individual piece of Biohome ultimate/ultra mini (I have a mixture) I managed to get almost 2kg in the canister. I did like up the top tray to ensure the lid was as full as I could get it, but I did not put the carbon pad in at that stage. I placed some pieces of biohome in the small circular space in the middle of the pre filter and I cut a thin piece of carbon foam as a lid above the central circular space.
It's nearly 5am and I have found this video and ordered everything needed - I hate the plastic media in this filter, it doesn't seem to do anything. Looking forward to fixing it :) thanks!
I’ve just set up one of these, the first time I’ve used a canister filter so am a bit clueless..... mine came with 2 different kinds of bio balls etc already in it to which I added the bio rings from my previous tank. It also has the weird black plastic tubes so I guess my new project is to replace them 😂 it’s only been set up a week so far though
Found it! My filter! I have seen a few of your videos before, and I did pimp this very same filter in a similar way. Bottom tray coarse, medium and fine filter pad, then using Eheim Substrat Pro filtermaterial in the top trays. I save the coal filter until I need it though, I only use it if I have to medicate the fishes, then I use it after the medication period is over. I use it as a prefilter in a 280 L aquarium, giving me about 10 L of Eheim Substrat Pro total including the internal filter. That aquarium are by far my slowest to build up any nitrate, and of course, it have zero ammonia and nitrite, even though it is fairly heavily stocked. I have plans to pimp the filters of my other aquariums too, I hope it will turn out as good as this one. Thank you for this series, every serious fishkeeper should look at it, it have thaught me about the full filter cycle after having aquariums for over 20 years! I had never heard that nitrate could be broken down before, only that it could be picked up as plant nutrition and build up slower in heavily planted tanks.
All sounds good to me and I'm glad you like the videos as although it costs me a fair bit to make them I think it is important to share this information.
Pondguru I'm very thankful you share this knowledge! Do you have a Patreon account or something where I can give something back? Or just use Biohome next time?
Money?, no way, man - I'm dead against patreon or gofundme as I think if you're passionate enough about something you'll do it for the help it brings to others and the pursuit of money is the search for unhappiness. Having people buy the media is a good side-effect of making these videos as it helps me support myself and afford to give it away wherever I can, lol Seriously though I just want to see people set filters up properly for the sake of their fish as so many suffer in terrible conditions.
Richard - what about putting all of the plastic media at 3:42 into the round top pre-filter ring tray that had the blue coarse foam; that way, it can catch most of large size muck up top itself, and then, we can have the foams combo for the trays below.
Pondguru aah ok. Makes sense. BTW, any chance you can do a PIMP-MY-FILTER episode with one of the hang-on-back filters that typical nano tanks come armed with? They have VERY Minimal space to work with and are frustrating to have :(
I have mine set up with all 3 trays full of Biohome and a Filter Booster from All Pond Solutions ( hose connections are a bit messy but it works ). When I bought my filter it came with a complete set of mechanical and biological media .Those black plastic things , medium foam ,fine pad , a ceramic media and sintered glass .
Excellent information. I can't believe how much you improved the filtration abilities over the manufacturers setup. You had to at LEAST doubled it's abilities
Alternatively you can use the in tank pre filters on this model and fill the top ring with fine floss, that way you can fill all 3 compartments with bio media and the floss is a lot easier to change being at the top 😉
It's cool that this Eheim filter has trays. I have the eheim 2215 (started on a 70l tank, moved to a 180l tank) and it's so annoying that it doesn't include any kind of tray or basket. Still trying to figure out a good way to put the fine filtration pad under the biological media. It's also pretty inconvenient for maintenance since that fine pad needs to be replaced pretty often. I've learned a lot from these videos, next filter maintenance session I'm going to pimp that thing, starting with adding more biological media, since I still have a bit of room in there for it. Thanks!
@@sailyui remove everything, replace with siporax or other biomech , use just a coarse for water input. try this. I bet it will improve the flow and the only maintenance you'll have to do is to clean the input coarse now and then.
Eheim mech superb mechanical filter and better than sponges.i also thought that a collection of plastic rings would not do any good for my eco pro 200 but when i put it ,doing extra ordinary job as mechanical filter and i wash my filter in duration of 6-8 months .water always remains crystal clear and no death of fishes in summer time with temp 42°c in environment without any fan or cooler.
Yolanda Herbert Yippee, I agree with both requests. You know, I don't think Pondguru has any idea what he's gotten himself into. Imagine the countless requests he's been inundated with since starting this golden series🤦🏾.
Not sure about the Marineland filter as we don't see many in UK but I have shot an FX6 video which needs editing down. I'll keep making the videos until people stop sending filters even though it is costing a small fortune as it should eventually build up a useful resource of information for anyone searching information on how their filter works and exploring options of how it could be improved.
I can call myself a "Pondguru follower/expert". LOL I have a 360 and FX4 on my 125. Just follow his rule: coarse foams to more fine........followed by media (biohome ultimate...........and lots of it!!!) The 360 flow goes bottom to top. So, leave the coarse foam on the bottom tray....factory spec. Then in the tray right above it, I put a fine pad. Then, I plopped the media on top of the fine pad (the fine pad is thin, leaving plenty of room).......and the tray above it is straight biohome ultimate. Each piece of biohome ultimate is roughly 10 grams, usually more like 9.5grams (dry weight). In the smaller trays in a Fluval 406 I could get roughly 650-700 grams per tray!!! I need to clean my canisters (possibly tonight)...........if I do, I will see how much biohome I got in those trays, as they are much larger in the 360. The FX filter flow goes top to bottom!!!! So, leave the foams that circle, and then put your bumpy course foam ON THE TOP TRAY, bumpy side UP, and I have a blue foam under it. All other space in the circular trays below are filled with media. Again, I will count how much is in my FX4 when I clean it. Hope this helps ya.
Hello, do you have any links for wavy filters and masses? Is the white filter a wadding? I want to recreate this system for my aquarium, thank you very much :)
If you are talking about the clogging issue, it wouldn't have the same effect. If he put the fine filter pad where he put the carbon one, the dirt would go through the media until it reached the pad and risk clogging the media. Since he put the fine filter pad and the rough pads in the bottom tray, they removed the dirt particles before they reached the media, therefore avoiding the clogging issue.
I know its not the exact same effect, but its close enough given how long media like biohome should last you. There really shouldn't be anything impeding the flow of water after the initial mechanical, just a straight shot through and out. I've yet to see a filter that doesn't experience some type of bypass. Although this is sort of a moot point, those carbon pads just don't last long, or even work well (I believe they're originally designed for air filtartion). Much better off with something like ROX 0.8 in a mesh bag, cheaper and much more effective.
@@Hartwig870 For the limited time that the pad will actually be viable, the positioning is fine. Most people use their pad once and then never bother to replace the carbon pad. Carbon is good in new tanks, overstocked tanks or when water changes are done poorly. Once the tank matures it isn't even needed unless trying to get rid of medication or tannins etc.
I think carbon can be useful in almost any tank, you just need to know what it is and isn't able to handle. If you grow plants and/or have expensive lighting, I'd probably spend the 5 bucks a month and use carbon. th-cam.com/video/JP5Vu6OvLOI/w-d-xo.html I also live in a mining town with a smelter, so I have concerns about what might floating around in the air so I use CupriSorb and again, carbon.
Richard, I have a EHEIM professionel 4+ 350. the foam pads are at the top of this filter from the factory. I'm adding biohome media. I also ordered the 3 foam pads. Where should they go on the top or bottom. Im not sure about the waterflow on this filter. I love your video's and you have really inspired me with your advise. Thank you, Domingo
The filter you have works in exactly the same way as this one so would be set up exactly the same - just imagine that the trays of this one are square instead of round. I haven't had one of the pro 4 series to film yet but they work exactly the same as this one. I'm glad you enjoy the videos - thanks for watching. As far as I can remember I think the trays of the 350 take about 1.2kg of biohome ultimate each.
Nice video. I would like to check how would you set up FX6. I was looking to see if you made a video for that but cannot find one. If you don't mind, could you please make a video for FX6 or Fluval 406 etc or write on here. Thank you.
If you haven't sent this filter off yet, I'd double check that the top tray media can't enter or interfere with the impeller system. If you haven't checked, of course :)
Could you not have put more media in the tray where you put the carbon pad,then put the carbon foam in the top circle tray were you put the last bit of media,would this not have given you even more media in filter?.
Like a backwards mini fx6 lol.. speaking of.. if recently replaced the bottom tray outside foams on my fx6 with bioballs in an effort to catch the heavy muck similar to dropping them in the bottom of normal canisters.. as this is your original idea do you think this will be more efficient in terms of keeping the other outside foams cleaner? My intent is to not have to replace the bottom tray perimeter foams as often as they take the brunt of the muck and bio balls should be easier to clean out then the denser foam. I’m also thinking of replacing the top tray perimeter foams with additional media bags and at that time likely replace the middle perimeter tray with nothing but poly. As good as the fx6 is it’s severely lacking in biomedia capacity so I’m trying to “pimp my fx6” lol I want to remove the foams and pads from the top center tray and gain 2 more liters for matrix media. The only way I can see to accomplish this is by revamping the perimeter foam sections to make them more efficient for muck and fine filtering. Do you think this is a good idea or should I stick to the foams as there is lots of bypass in those perimeter areas due to the stupid fins they put in there.
If the FX filters have a problem it is the fins on the inside of the outer rings allow water to flow straight up from tray to tray so you're limited to the foams in the outer sections to prevent that. With bioballs in the bottom ring water will fly through them, up the channels and straight into the top tray which would then need foams and fine pad in to catch the muck since the matrix is a variable quality mirco-porous media it will clog extremely quickly if it is not kept very clean. I'd just stick to the foams for the outer rings although you can fit coarse and medium grade foam in there quite easily as I'll show in an upcoming video on the FX6 - that frees up some space in top tray meaning you only need a fine pad on top of the top tray and can fill all trays with media of your choice. Fluval do vastly overstate what size of tank the FX filters will be suitable for (by about 3x) but like other manufacturers they don't mention full cycle filtration - they very well may keep the promised 1500 litres clean due to the high turnover rate and ample foams but an average tank of around 500 litres is all you can expect proper filtration from the FX5 /6 due to the media trays only holding 5kg of biohome ultimate in total. Therefore the vast majority of people using these will never see a full cycle and will consider them to be nitrate factories which is a major bummer as they are well made and can be made more efficient (and can provide a full cycle when correctly sized and set up properly).
Pondguru thanks for the response.. yeah those fins really screw up everything even with factory foams there is a lot of bypass still. About the only thing I can really think of that will pack tight enough to eliminate is poly fill. Next time I break it down I might go ahead and try cutting up some pond foams in a way to get them to fill the fin areas using medium and fine then try stuffing the top outer ring with poly.
Could you do a sump? I'd love to hear your thoughts on the best sump set ups. I have a 90 gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump that I've set up in a similar fashion to your canister methods, but I know it's not perfect.
Cheers for this, mate. I'm awaiting BioHome Ultimate and 3-part foam filter set from GreatWave in the USA. Looking to implement your brilliant reorganization of media in my older Eheim 2036. Will also add a Eheim 2236 to better maintain my 75 gallon African Cichlid tank. 🤜🤛
I shot a video on the 206 last week and just need to edit that down for the series but if someone sends others in that range I will do them too as people will be searching for information on specific models even though they all work the same.
I love these videos. Have you very compared how much media you can fit neatly in the filter? I have stacked you bio home ultimate very neatly and fit quite a bit more.
Hi Richard, what bioload would you consider a standard one for a formula of 1kg of Biohome per 100 liters? How many fish and what size of adult fish. Let us say Malawi tank, 800 liters, 8 kilos of Biohome. How many venustus would you put in OR how many L. caeruleus? Thanks.
lol, how long is a piece of string? - every tank is differently set up but your last video you uploaded shows a stock of Malawi / Tanganyikan which is about what I'd expect from an African Cichlid tank regardless of size. That would generally be classed as heavily stocked, not because the fish are massive but because there are plenty of them and they eat a fair amount of food and therefore produce way more waste than a normal tropical tank with a mix of fish in. Therefore it could take anywhere from 1.5kg to 2kg of biohome ultimate per 100 litres to achieve a full cycle - you may get it with less but from feedback we've received over the last 10 years or so it would generally take around 1kg per 100 litres for a normally stocked tropical tank and anywhere from 1.5kg to 2kg per 100 litres for a heavier / heavily stocked tank which would include cichlid tanks / predator tanks / goldfish tanks / fry growing tanks - basically tanks which would be generally quite heavily stocked and heavily fed. Ammonia and nitrite reduction is relatively easy and doesn't need much media but it is that last part of the cycle (anaerobic side) which needs a large enough population of anaerobic bacteria to process the nitrate generated from the first (aerobic) stage and ultimately supporting enough of both types of bacteria requires a certain amount of media based on stock.
Thanks, the last part of the cycle was exactly my point. It is difficult, though, to measure the size of denitrification by biohome. Btw, I have only biohome in all my filters. I know this is not an easy question, but what nitrate levels would you consider a success in my tank you saw 1 weeak after 50% water change? I like your videos, they are most informative on youtube.
Thank you, I stopped using Prime and Purigen many many months ago, I have an upflow algae scrubber from Santa Monica Filtration, Biohome media, and no visible algae on the glass. But I would not get as low as 10 ppm nitrates 1 weak after 10 nor 50% water change. Perhaps 25 or so. Sometimes higher. I guess I have 1.5 kg per 100 liters.
In your first comment you said you had 8kg in 800 litres - is that true? If so that is well under the recommended amount for a cichlid and if you're getting 25ppm a week after a water change that is a good result if you only have 1kg per 100 litres for a cichlid tank.
The first example was only a hypothetical, just to give you a scenario with venustus or labidochromis. Actually, I do only have 12 adults haps/peacocks in one tank with 1.5 kg per 100 liters. But the readings are 25 ppm or higher. I tried TETRA, API, and Salifert tests
Since the first line of filtering on that is at the top soon as you open it I would’ve placed a fine pad or poly there. Maintained would be weekly but it would only be 30sec to remove the top and replace the top poly. Then you could pack the rest full of biomedia. The center top cation is also perfect for chemical media of choice. Since first and last filtering is at the top these are your most accessed areas. Muck and chemical replacements.. you wouldn’t have to open the rest of the filter for month and even then long as the poly or fine pad is being replaced weekly it will be almost spotless inside. This is actually a very thought out design imop by someone who hates having to remove everything from their filter just to replace clogged fine pads and reassemble. It’s one of the things I like about the fluval designs. As many flaws as they have it takes just seconds to pop the top replace the fine pad and get it back into action. If Ehiem was smart they would make a much larger version of this filter. Wouldn’t need to have a massive pump like the 2260 or fx6 but something that moves 300-350gph with 6-9l of bio media space for a decent price would become king of the canister filter market. If they could do this at a price point of $2-300 it would be a direct competitor to sunsun 304b and Marineland c360 which are the most canisters filters in the US. If they could sell it wo any media at all and get to the $200 mark even better. Although I do like the Ehiem mech for collecting muck the rest of their media leave much to be desired.. substrate pro is a flow killer cause it packs too dense. When it does this I’ve seem it create so much additional head restriction inside most canisters that it forces the trays to flex and bypass the media which is pointless.
That set up you propose sounds sensible to me and there are always multiple ways to achieve the same goal. I tend to assume that most people want to leave the filters as long as possible between maintenance as that is all I heard in the many years of having a shop, lol Therefore I will always show a way which extends maintenance times and hopefully will provide a full cycle (when a filter is properly sized and well set up) but what I would love to do eventually is have viewers send me short video clips for compilation videos of 'viewers filters' - of how they have their particular filters set up where they explain what they have done and why they have done it. I'm contemplating asking for video submissions of tanks all round the world to make compilation videos too - would be a good way for viewers to get their channels noticed and help with their subs.
Pondguru fully understand.. I’m always trying to pick my maintenance point for convince and time savings.. nothing beats a 20 second fine filter swap weekly if it eliminates 20 min monthly cleanings of the entire canister. I’d be glad to share my setups and philosophies behind them but you’ll notice they are mostly test trials of your basic principles lol. Although I can ever leave well enough alone. I have a tank where the bottom substrate is nothing but various bio media’s cause I’m always changing my setup trying to tweak them and make them as efficient as possible. This keeps them all cycled so I can compare different setups for best results. The one thing I’ve noticed on many different types and manufacturers of canisters... depending how much you restrict them with too much fine filter or too much dense packing media you can get almost all to create bypass. I would be willing to bet most people have done this and don’t know how to tell. To those who read this.. if you open your bottom inlet top outlet canister (bottom to too flow) and you use proper mechanicals filtration in bottom tray... there should not be floating debris in the top when you open it and there also shouldn’t be any in the mid level trays. If you see this you are packing your trays too dense and restricting flow so much that the tray is flexing on the edges and allowing water to bypass the tray.. Marineland c series are very bad about this as they have very tall thin wall trays.
I think someone is sending up a Marineland filter to me this week so I'll bear that in mind. It may be a Marina filter though now that I think harder about it - I'm getting lost off with all these filters, lol
Pondguru lol.. I did setup my fx6 with nothing but poly on the outside rings where the foams go yesterday as I needed to suck out the muck from my daughters tank with new gravel I didn’t prewash lol. I have to say I’m a little perplexed.. I stuffed each section top to bottom complete full as much as I could wo over stuffing them. I even presoaked the polyfil to make sure I didn’t leave too much fluff. I opened it today now that her tank is clear... the outside poly hardly took any of the prefiltering. The bottom tray trapped a little and the finer gravel/dirt. The next two trays were pretty clean and the top center fine pad was a complete mess. Under that I had the factory bio sponge which looked clean but upon rinsing had lots of muck from The gravel. Under that I had another fine pad (I take the factory fine pads split in half so each fine pad was 1/2 the factory pad thinkness which for fluval is really think as they are around 1-1/2” think) the bottom fine pad was again completely saturated with muck from the gravel. Either I too lightly packed the outside of each tray or no matter how much you stuff them there is still bypass no accounting for those dumb fins. When I assembled my trays today and placed back into the canister I noticed a good 1/4” gap between the trays and the canister. I’ve yet to figure out how to fill this area. I bought some 1/4” washable ac filter foams that would likely work however I’m scared to use them. I noticed when filling all the outside tray sponge areas it took me a solid 30min to get the filter primed completely. (I’m impatient when the chip turned the motor off to go into purge I unplugged and replug as it seems to remove air faster then waiting for the chip to purge the system on its own) I did this for a long time before the filter would hold flow. Best I can tell the fx6 has massive bypass built into the outside trays as part of the auto purge design. The inner trays work very well. But I’m having a very hard time balancing bypass and prefiltering with the out side portions. When I put it back on my tank today I placed about 20 small bio balls in the bottom on the ramp until they reached same height as the bottom of the seal where the bottom tray seals against the ring. I then placed factory foams in the outside of the bottom tray. I then “stuffed very tightly” the outside of the next two trays. At the top center section I removed half my matrix and put a full thickness factory fine pad. I’m going to let this run for a couple weeks then see what each section looks like. I hope the top fine pad is pretty clean and the poly is dirty. The tank I put this on is a 60g juvie cichlid grow out tank with over 30 4-6” fish so to say a week of fine pad is all I get normally is an understatement. I usually replace my fine pads every 5-6 day’s and by then they are almost dark brown. 2 weeks and I’ve seen my Marineland c360 clog and fail to pump. I’m very interested to see how you setup a fx5-6 filter.. my advice when’re as most time you just do your basic setups knowing what will work.. on the fx pumps you actually need to test it for a while first. They are seemingly very hard to hot rod cause of what appears to be factory built in bypass. As for the Marineland or marina lol.. really hope it’s the Marineland filter.. if been struggling with my c360 for about a year now trying to eliminate bypass but still get effective mechanical filtration. To date the best I’ve come up with is running both factory corse sponges in the bottom tray and saving my fine pads for the top tray. This has yielded the best water quality and least gunk in the other trays. My second tray runs 2l of biomax, 3rd is around 3l of Ehiem substrate pro(have to be careful here when trying to max media as it’s easy to not have the next tray fully seat. If it’s hard to get the top plastic piece on that holds the top tray media in place then something is over stocked) and top is around 2l of pond matrix with a fine pad stuffed on the top. I used to run chemipure blue in the top tray on top of a fine pad but my tank runs so dirty I was exhausting the chemipure that should last 4-6 months in under 2. This current setup is yielding me 2.5ish Ppm daily nitrate production before adding the fx6 which is still seeding with around 5l of matrix that is only 3-4 weeks old. 2.5ppm daily with 2 feedings (there’s a turtle in the tank too lol) is the best I’ve seen so far. It allows for %60 water changes biweekly with a 80-90% every 2 months. I know a lot of stress on the fish but they are used to it and I’ve not lost one yet since doing this. In fact leaving just enough water in the tank for a 90% change and them still able to breath seems to reduce aggression in the tank. Either way I’m very interested to see what you come up with on either of these filters. I feel I’m pushing both to the absolute usable extremes but I’m not “pond guru” just a normal guy who try’s to follow others advice with enough sense to know when I need to try and tweak it for my own use.
I've got a eheim pro II 2028 on my trigon 350. Would the ecco 300 be okay to add to this tank. Or would it be too small. I've taken the original internal filter out.
probably a stupid question, but how often do you need to change the biohome media over ? Do you just give it a rinse in your tank water that you syphon off when you do water changes and chuck it back into the filter ?
last question................. does the outlet need to be above the water level of the aquarium or can I have the outlet under the water ? I am going to be adding this to a tank that already has an air driven filter running to there is plenty of agitation of the surface to help with reoxygenation as I have got a couple of airstones in there also. I am basically looking at pimping a biorb105 to have much better filtration using the ecopro 300 while keeping the central air filter and the additional airstones for agitation. Probably overkill but i want to try it anyway
@@qubitmusictechnology As long as you have some sort of water disturbance at the surface it doesn't matter if the main filter outlet is below the water line. Having the air driven filter should allow for enough breaking of water surface tension so no worries there.
Thanks for the video, I have now set mine filter up correctly. I’m also running an intake sponge. So I have 2 of these filters (2213) what do you think of running them in line? First with mechanical filtration and the second with just biological.
(my other channel) Basically manufacturers of filters pull the 'recommended' figures out of their backsides and they are based on nothing. If you have normally stocked 125 litre tank then I'm sure this filter will be fine as long as it is sensibly set up. Unlike filter manufacturers I work on the recommendations based on how much of the Biohome media a specific filter will hold in a quest to achieve a full cycle (natural reduction in nitrate). Any piss-pot filter will achieve 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite but it takes specific conditions to achieve a full cycle which will result in reduced nitrate and it has taken over a decade of questions and feedback to arive at the figures I quote. The figures I give out in the 'Pimp My Filter' series may seem pessimistic but they are based on a full cycle - the disappointing thing is that 99% of other channels only talk about half a job (0 ammonia and 0 nitrite) and large regular water changes to control the nitrate - that tells you the filter is too small or not set up properly. I'm planning a video on Germ theory vs Terrain theory for the PondGuru channel as the vast majority of people have never heard of Terrain theory but it is critical to understanding why things go wrong in an aquarium. Germ theory benefits companies which operate to a pharmaceutical business template whereas Terrain theory benefits the fish keeper, the body and Nature. That's the reason we don't get taught Terrain theory in school, lol. Most doctors have never heard of it either and that's all by design to sell more products and keep people (and aquariums in a state of dis-ease). Hopefully the video I make will benefit many people but it probably won't be appreciated until it is copied in years to come by other (more popular) channels - that's how it normally works.......
@@ThousandYardStare thanks for the feed back. I've been running my 125 since aug last year. I do weekly water changes where i take out roughly 23 litres. my nitrate is never higher than 5, 0 amonia and 0 nitrite. At first the nitrate was high, but with water changes and maturing the filter its been stable at 5 for a long time. im running a 60 litre spone filter at one side and have my U3 in the other side, but really dont like it so wanted to move to external. i'm getting mixed answers whether or not the tank is "sensibly" stocked. i think its on the verge of max stock I have 13 rummynoses 6 neons bristlenose 5 rabbit snails 2 bamboo shrimp 4 kuhli loaches 6 corys 2 guppys and an army of bladder snails that wont bugger off 😂 is there an external you could remcommend or a size i should go for?
@@Ss-ws7jm If you're running at 5ppm of nitrate a week after a water change I wouldn't spend extra money upgrading the filtration - 5ppm after a week is excellent and could be considered a full cycle , However, if you wanted to move to an external then the Ecco Pro 300 would be a decent choice.
@@ThousandYardStare thanks. will give it some more thought. just feel the U3 doesnt clean as well. I done my water change yesterday and already there is plenty of muck showing on the sand. it also makes a horrible buzzing/rattling sound every now and again. thanks for your time in replying, its appreciated.
Hi Richard, I find these videos really informative. I have just bought another Fluval FX6, and wonder if you have 'pimped' one of them. If not I would really like to see you do one. I live in Carlisle so am not too far from you and could bring it to you if you are interested. Bill
Dear Bill, You're a couple of weeks late unfortunately as I have already filmed an FX6 video and just need the time to edit it down into something watchable. It takes 5kg of biohome ultimate if you just go for a fine pad on top of top tray and 3 trays of media (since the trays are surrounded by decent foams) but in the video I also upgraded the foams surrounding the trays to a more graded approach so water hit coarse then medium grade foams which are same size as stock foams . The FX series are good filters. I have 8 videos in this series uploaded now plus another one which is done ready to upload but there are a further 6-7 which are shot and need editing so it is looking like it will run for a while yet. Feel free to have a ride over here no problem as I work from home, just give me a ring first to make sure I'm going to be in on 07772848730. Regards, Richard
Looking forward to the FX6 video Richard. I now have 3 FX6s so it will be a very helpful video. Sounds like I'll be ordering a lot more biohome! Many thanks for these great videos.
No worries, the way I set the FX6 up it looks very cool as the foams are different colours but most importantly it allows for better filtration which is the goal of this series.
Hi Richard, I have an ecco pro 200. Think it's the same as the 300 with one less media basket. Have ordered one of your kits and am wondering about pimping it a bit differently. Do you think there would be a case for using a coarse foam on the filter intake, then medium in the prefilter slot and fine in the very bottom of the main tank. This would leave 2 full baskets for biohome. Another variant would be to put fine foam and biohome together in the lower basket, what are your thoughts on that? cheers and keep up the good work!
As long as the foams, pad and media are in the right order then anything is possible. The only thing I'd worry about however is the pad being crushed under the media if it was in the bottom tray and if it was under the trays there is no guarantee that the water will flow through it properly there but give it a go and see what happens - filtration is all about experimentation and the things I show in this series of videos are just one way to set up a particular type of filter. The eheim pre-filters are good and will definitely save the canister from lots of muck entering it.
Hi Pondguru My filter intake pipe has a pre filter + the filter itself has a pre filter....my question is ...would it be possible not to have sponge in the bottom tray...that is all the 3 trays has bio home media ?
A sponge at the bottom could clog pretty quick. A better solution would be to run a small prefilter 'canister' prior to the ecco pro. That way you maintain the prefilter and won't need to touch your ecco pro full of bio for months.
If you had of meshed the dimples of the course and medium foams together, then cut the discs out simultaneously. They would have taken less space in the bottom tray and the fine filter wool wouldn't have been so compressed.
I had one of these. It lasted about 3 months. The round top piece is heavy and fits tightly on top of the thin green plastic 'bucket'. Just trying to put the top back on one time the bucket cracked. That was the end of that. This filter has other rather flimsy plastic parts too, so not recommended.
Hello Richard, great vid bud, thanks for that :). I'm a bit confused by what you got in the filter when it was sent to you though, especially as the filter looked brand new? The one I got has the plastic mech pipes in the bottom tray same as yours but it has bio mech in the next one up and then substrat pro in the next one up, I think the trays in yours where empty? It then has a fine pad followed by the carbon pad to place on top of the substrat pro....thats in the order eheim recommend its positioned of course. Oh, it did have the blue pre filter same as your one.
I think there may be different buying options or maybe it had been emptied out before being sent up. Either way I would have emptied most of the stuff out anyway, lol
Pondguru Thanks for the reply Richard. In your video it looked like the filter you fettled had a two pin plug so I assumed it was possibly meant for foreign climbes and maybe eheim don't supply the media with their filters to some countries....just my mind workin overtime lol.
Hi, this is a great vid, to increase the efficiency if I use one of the EHEIM pre-filters ( or one of the bigger canister pre-filters that you have reviewed am I right in thinking I could replace the sponges in the bottom tray for bio media? AND then does that pre- filter ring on this Ecco become null and void (as the fine pad in the pre- wouldn’t allow muck thru big enough to be caught) so could I remove the blue ring and put more bio media in its holder instead ( I know the holder directs the water flow)? Cheers Andy
You may have to get it from amazon (from China) geni.us/ABzyp3 Hopefully that link will work. Not sure why it isn't sold in the US as that's all we have over in Europe for pond filters and it works great for aquarium filters too.
The best one I have filmed so far would be either the FX6 (Fluval) or the Aquis 1250 (Aqua One) or maybe even the Dennerle Scapers Flow as it is very different but all that footage has yet to be edited down so all those videos are coming up soon.
Hi! Thanks for your advice and hard work! I just bought a Fluval FX6, do you have any recommendation on this filters? I was thinking on a pre filter for the intake (Filter-Max III Pre Filter by aquarium tech) what do you think about this? Thanks in advance, greetings from Guatemala.
A pre-filter is a good idea and although I'm not familiar with that one you mention it looks decent. I am due to upload a video on the FX6 this week so look out for that.
Pondguru thanks for your quick reply! Looking forward for your new video! I forgot to ask, what do you think I should do with a Fluval 106? Would it be a good idea to use it alongside a fx6 with different media perhaps? Thanks.
With the 106 yoiu're really stuck with the foams down the side but they are quite effective at removing coarse muck. Bottom tray would be for medium and fine pad leaving the top tray for media - you can fit approx. 500g of biohome ultimate in the top tray. It is fine to use it in addition to another filter on the tank if needed.
There is nothing different really being added, it's just putting stuff in the right order so it will make no difference to the life / output of the pump other than hopefully increasing the intervals between maintenance.
Sounds like you had air trapped in the pump chamber as there is no reason why moving anything about inside the filter would affect the running of the pump.
@@pondguru update : tried it again and no change in sound, must of done something wrong the first time! 24 hours later - water is clear as anything, man this setup is awesome 🙂
Wow! Someone who sets up their Eheims similar to me. I use the Eccos strictly for mechanical (1/3 coarse foam, 1/3 medium, 1/3 fine) and then use a Classic for bio filled with bioballs with a prefilter sponge on the intake. I clean the prefilter once a week and my biomedia stays clean (I open that canister every 5 years or so). My easier to clean Ecco I clean once a month or two - and I mean I CLEAN it! I squeeze those sponges in tap water until they're like new. Mechanical in one filter (yes, of course bio will grow there) and biological in the other. (flow through, no where for the gunk to stay.) Been doing it that way for over 20 years. More expensive - probably. Redundant - yes. Easy to maintain - absolutely. If only you could get the Eheim Pickups in the USA again...
What's your best recommendation for a filter of this size. In the same rice range? I've got a 64l at the moment but I want at least another 100l set up to run off one filter.
The size of filter will depend on the stock of fish but I'd say something the size of a All Pond Solutions 1400EF+ which will hold 3kg of mediawould be big enough to filter 2 tanks with a combined total of 164 litres even if they were quite heavily stocked. The UV is essential when running multiple tanks from one filter too.
In a mature filter it is best to swap out the old bio media for the new media over a 3-4 week period to maintain the biological action of the filter. The biohome matures very fast but removing all mature media and replacing with new in one go is asking for trouble in most tanks.
Hello there. I am just at the beginning of my research. I want to buy a fishtank sized: 100x50x50cm (pure volume 250l ). Would the Ecco Pro 300 be enough for that or should i buy another?
The eheim ecco pro 300 is rated for up to 300l, but in reality it is better suited for 160l (as per the eheim website). I've had it on a 200l for a few months having thought it to be rated for 300l. Though I have been planning to get a second to work alongside it.
My 1st canister filter is about 9 months old now thanks to the pondguru video a while back, the bottom- tray-mechanical-only works wonderful in keeping the bio-medias clean so my only maintenance is the sponges while the bio-media requires a couple of dips in tank water to be clean. albeit it is a hassle to prime a cheap canister filter.
Hello 👋! I really liked your video, I wanted to ask you some questions 🙏. I bought an aquarium kit last month, specifically the Eheim Vivaline LED 240 liters, my intention is to create in this aquarium a biotope for tropical fish, but "low Tech", without Co2. With this aquarium kit is included a stand with door of really good quality, an eheim heater of 150w, a led screen with very correct and sufficient features for a "low tech Aquarium" with Easy plants with low requeriments, and this kit have included too the filter that you present here, the Ecco pro 300... Yes is included too, is a really good Kit of Aquarium "Pug & Play" with a really good price (well... Here in Deutchland 😅) My question is whether this filter really capable and enough for my aquarium, or I need to buy a larger filter? I had thought to buy an Eheim professionel 4+ 600 (I love Eheim products), and keep the Ecco Pro 300 filter in case some day I have an "emergency" to use it, since the filtering charges of a high-end Eheim filter and an ecco pro are the same , so if you need to use it, you should only change the loads from one filter to another. I also seemed to understand that you said that eheim is one of the few brands that really gives true data about the liters per hour wye move their filters, is that right? Or I got it wrong? In the case of JBL for example, its filters equipped with filtering load and length of tubes of 1'50m hardly work half of the liters per hour that they advertise, so they affirm themselves in their instruction manual of JBL.... In conclusion, would you recommend starting my aquarium with this filter? Do you think it's too small for my aquarium? Would you recommend some superior model? By the way ... Can I get your products for my filters, here in Germany? I also have a small aquarium of 54 liters gross, it is planted and inhabits 5 Guppy and two young Ancistrus, my idea is to transfer them to the aquarium of 240 liters when I start it, but I still have many doubts about the equipment of my big aquarium. This small 54-liter aquarium is equipped with a small backpack filter specifically Acuaclear 20. Could you help me with that small filter to make it useful for my little aquarium? How can I contact you to buy your products and help me, advise and advisors to configure and choose my filters and my aquariums? Sorry for all these questions, congratulations for your video, it is really a good video and you do a good job on your channel 💪👍 Greetings and a big hug from Germany.
Hello, I find myself in your position. It's 5 years since you posted but what did you end up doing? Did you use the same filter or upgraded. I want to get a vivaline 240 and wondering the same things as you. Thank you.
@@mansikapur3013 Hello! No problem! I'm happy to help you, especially help you not make the same mistakes I made. Unfortunately, when I started, I had very few people by my side who had the slightest interest in advising me and helping me in a selfless way, that is, behind the "supposed advice" there was no intention of "selling me something." Also now after all these years I can be more precise and truthful in my advice and response, I also have much more knowledge and experience now. I will give you my opinion on the Eheim Vivaline 240 Aquarium, the Eheim Ecco pro 300 filter and the biological material in 3 messages, so that it is not so boring or long. The Eheim Ecco pro 300 filter is a good filter, but it is NOT enough for a 240 liter aquarium. The Eheim Vivaline 240 Aquarium Set is a bit "that", it is a very good aquarium (I am referring to the glass tank and the finishes) with a mediocre base cabinet, a filter that is too small for an aquarium of those dimensions and lighting Quite mediocre standard, only the heater (a little outdated by the way...) is up to what an aquarium of those dimensions needs. Part by part: - The Eheim Vivaline base cabinet is perhaps the simplest and most vulgar aquarium cabinet of all that I know, one door on each side, no back wall, no shelves or holes to place shelves... nothing... very very basic and mediocre, yes... it is spacious... because there is nothing there... just two large spaces separated by a wooden wall right in the middle - The lighting is even insufficient for a normal planted aquarium, I'm not talking about plants with medium or high requirements, or if you use CO2 there. Like the filter, you should change the lighting or expand it unless you have few plants and very very low requirements and without a CO2 System. As for the filter, my advice is that you buy another one and use it for an aquarium with a maximum of 100 liters, or better yet, save it in case you have an emergency. I assure you that in case of emergency, it is very appreciated to have a backup filter... problems usually occur when it is most difficult to obtain a solution... on a Saturday night... on a Sunday... you know what I mean. .. I have an Oase BioMaster Thermo 600 filter in my Vivaline 240 aquarium. But after that Eheim Vivaline 240 Aquarium, I bought 2 more aquariums of 240 liters, one of 126 liters, and 2 more aquariums of 450 liters. The 240 liter aquariums that I bought after the Vivaline are: - An Aquael OPTTISET 240 Aquarium, this Set includes the lid, the lighting (better than the Vivaline), the base cabinet (better than the Vivaline) and does not include a heater or filter, but the aquarium is much prettier than the Vivaline . Here in this aquarium I have an Aquael Ultramax 1500 filter. - A Juwel Rio 240 LED aquarium also of 240 Liters For me this is my favorite, it is an "all inclusive", with a fixed internal filter (not removable) that is a Juwel patent, and a very good quality cabinet. In terms of quality, it is the best of these 3 aquariums, in second place I would choose without hesitation the Aquael OPTISET 240 Aquarium, and Eheim would always be my last option, or maybe not even that... The Juwel Aquarium is an "all-in-one" aquarium, the quality of the base cabinet is impeccable, the standard LED lighting is of very good quality and more than enough for a good planted aquarium, and it incorporates an internal filter with heating included. The filter is permanently anchored to the back right side. This filter is a Juwel patent and is without a doubt the best internal filter there is, and quite a bit better than many external filters I have had or know of. Like everything in life, this filter has its unconditional fans and its detractors... there are people who buy Juwel Aquariums for their good quality/price ratio, and they remove the internal filter and buy a filter to use in the Juwel aquarium, there are also who uses the Juwel internal filter plus an external external filter at the same time in Juwel aquariums... In my opinion it is a great filter that can be easily hidden behind plants, rocks, roots and decoration, the efficiency and effectiveness of this filter is incredible, and especially it is very practical in terms of maintenance, which you appreciate a lot especially if one of your external filters from the other aquariums breaks down and has a water leak, or simply on the day that it is "filter cleaning" and you have to load your external filters up and down, plus clean the hoses etc etc... then you know really evaluate the Juwel filter and the Juwel aquariums... and you will see that removing that filter from the aquarium to have an external filter is truly stupid.... also the consumption of a Juwel filter does not reach 10w.... that is You will notice it on your electricity bill.
@@mansikapur3013 Since I bought my first Juwel aquarium, all the ones I have bought later if there was a version with the same liter capacity in the Juwel brand, then I always bought the Juwel As for external filters, for me the 2 best filters for aquariums up to 330 liters (after having tested practically all external filters) are without a doubt: - Oase Biomaster Thermo 250 / 350 / 600. - Aquael Ultramax 1000 / 1500 /2000 They are the quietest, with real and innovative solutions and very efficient. In both filters you can clean the pre-filter weekly in just 3 or 4 minutes without having to open the entire filter, so you very easily extend the maintenance periods a lot and save yourself from having to carry the external filter from here to there every time. 1 or 2 months. Also note that both filters are extremely reliable. The Oase BioMaster Thermo is much more expensive, it has the heater included, it is a very good quality product and from a great brand with a lot of prestige. Aquael is surprisingly quiet, the quietest of all the external filters by far, very well made, good materials, very good price, very good capacity. It does not have built-in heating, nor is there currently a version of this filter with heating. But if that is not a problem for you, I will tell you that when I buy external filters, if I need them to be heated, my first option is always the Oase BioMasterThermo. And when I don't need or don't care that the filter has built-in heating, my first option always and without hesitation is the Aquael Ultramax ahead of any other brand, whatever it may be, including those Chinese filters that are so highly recommended here on this channel. .. and that so many times I have seen it break down quickly and flood living rooms in the house of some reckless friend who believed the "Good, pretty and cheap" story. The aquael is super quiet and very efficient in any of its versions (1000, 1500, 2000). The 1500 lph version is enough for a 240 liter aquarium. If you opt for the 2000lph version you may have to reduce the flow power a little if you have many plants or if you have fish such as small American cichlids or Angel fish that do not like very strong water currents. With the Aquael Ultramax filter you only have to keep one thing in mind: Don't forget to strictly follow the advice in the instruction manual before opening the pre-filter cover, if you do it correctly as Aquael advises everything will be fine, if you don't read the manual and don't If you open the pre-filter cover correctly, then when you open that cover some water will always fall out. I insist, the filter has absolutely no problem, simply to open the prefilter you must follow a few simple steps, and you will enjoy an absolutely great filter.
@@mansikapur3013 As an example, I will tell you that the two largest aquariums are Malawi Biotope Aquariums, that is, without plants and with large African cichlid fish that need absolutely implacable water. I am currently using biological material in the filters simply twice (approximately) the amount recommended by Sera Siporax or Seachem Matrix. For example, 1 liter of Sera Siporax is enough for a 200 liter aquarium, so in my 450 liter aquariums I use a maximum of 4 liters of Sera Siporax Professional 15mm or in the case of Seachem Matrix, I calculate it at a rate of 500 ml of Seachem. Matrix is 200 liters, so at most I only add 2 liters of Seachem Matrix. To this I only add the chemical filtration that is the Seachen Purigen, which I change every 5 or 6 months. And a very good mechanical filtration with good 35ppi, 45ppi sponges and filter thread. With this I have enough to have impeccable water parameters and 0 problems. In 450l aquariums without plants and with large African cichlids, change the water weekly by 50/60%. In 240 liter tropical aquariums with plants, 25/30% water change every 2 weeks. If you start your aquariums well, use good maintenance products, and do things well... nothing justifies loading your filters with kilos and kilos of supposedly Premium materials... (very "supposedly"...) Also, since by not unnecessarily filling the filters with material that they do not need, you have a good space to place a good mechanical filtration (which also has a biological function of course), and chemical filtration, so the water in my aquariums is not only healthy but it is also always very crystalline. I hope I have helped you, I don't know if you can send messages between using TH-cam, if so, don't hesitate to write to me if you have any more questions. Greetings from Germany
@@mansikapur3013 sorry... I forgot this... Since I bought my first Juwel aquarium, all the ones I have bought later if there was a version with the same liter capacity in the Juwel brand, then I always bought the Juwel As for external filters, for me the 2 best filters for aquariums up to 330 liters (after having tested practically all external filters) are without a doubt: - Oase Biomaster Thermo 250 / 350 / 600. - Aquael Ultramax 1000 / 1500 /2000 They are the quietest, with real and innovative solutions and very efficient. In both filters you can clean the pre-filter weekly in just 3 or 4 minutes without having to open the entire filter, so you very easily extend the maintenance periods a lot and save yourself from having to carry the external filter from here to there every time. 1 or 2 months. Also note that both filters are extremely reliable. The Oase BioMaster Thermo is much more expensive, it has the heater included, it is a very good quality product and from a great brand with a lot of prestige. Aquael is surprisingly quiet, the quietest of all the external filters by far, very well made, good materials, very good price, very good capacity. It does not have built-in heating, nor is there currently a version of this filter with heating. But if that is not a problem for you, I will tell you that when I buy external filters, if I need them to be heated, my first option is always the Oase BioMasterThermo. And when I don't need or don't care that the filter has built-in heating, my first option always and without hesitation is the Aquael Ultramax ahead of any other brand, whatever it may be, including those Chinese filters that are so highly recommended here on this channel. .. and that so many times I have seen it break down quickly and flood living rooms in the house of some reckless friend who believed the "Good, pretty and cheap" story. The aquael is super quiet and very efficient in any of its versions (1000, 1500, 2000). The 1500 lph version is enough for a 240 liter aquarium. If you opt for the 2000lph version you may have to reduce the flow power a little if you have many plants or if you have fish such as small American cichlids or Angel fish that do not like very strong water currents. With the Aquael Ultramax filter you only have to keep one thing in mind: Don't forget to strictly follow the advice in the instruction manual before opening the pre-filter cover, if you do it correctly as Aquael advises everything will be fine, if you don't read the manual and don't If you open the pre-filter cover correctly, then when you open that cover some water will always fall out. I insist, the filter has absolutely no problem, simply to open the prefilter you must follow a few simple steps, and you will enjoy an absolutely great filter.
I have the smallest ECCO 130 but bought the large "bucket" & 2 more media trays as spares. It all fits together perfectly so I have the slow flow rate of the 130 pump head with the 3 filter trays of the 300. Been running for 4 years & zero nitate. Happy days!
flow goes from top down in the FX series. So, keep the white foams in place that circle the trays as they come from the factory. Then, in top tray put the coarse black foam, bumpy side up. Under it I bought the blue fine pads, and put one under the mentioned black foam. Everything under that...........biohome ultimate. Pondguru's method isn't that complicated. Coarse foam, to finer foam..........finished with media.
Aquatics And furries rule of thumb.....the flow goes toward the pump. In the 406 series the pump is on the top, and in the FX series the pump is at the bottom
Not an aquarium shop any more as I closed it a few years ago and now work from home but if you want media or foams and are local you're more than welcome to collect. I live near Ebchester DH8 9JA
Ehime classics are the best. The rest are bad copy of the near perfectly made filter. And how many other filters allow you to be able to rebuild it so easily. Big green classics are the best when it comes to aquarium filters.
PondGuru makes way too much sense to be hired by bottom line obsessed businesses who purposely hinder their filters to keep users forever buying their specific replacement media. He'd be a threat to their "addiction based" business models. At least we still have choices on what can go into our filters except the quirky Fluval G3 & G6 models.
There's only so many filters you're gonna sell each year so their business would be a fraction of what it is without the people who repeat buy the foam pads. Ultimately filters might be even more expensive if it weren't for that fact.
Hello Richard, I have the Ehime aquaball 180. I don't think it's a good enough filtration . If you can pimp it and make it better. I'm a big fan of your channel on TH-cam and always watching your videos. You always inspired me with your ideas. . I tried to reach you on the phone number in the description. I don’t know if you get the message on WhatsApp. Thanks
If you phoned there is no record of it but I hardly ever check watsap or texts if you were sending a message. Either a phone call or email is best as I'm at a computer most of the day (for emails) and have all notifications turned off on the phone except phone calls. The aquaball unfortunately uses foams and draws water in through all the compartments at the same time so I'm at a loss as to how that would / could be improved as it's essentially a pump driven sponge filter.
Eheim Ecco Pro 300 (Amazon): geni.us/fC1wG
Eheim Ecco Pro 300 (Ebay): ebay.to/2ruNIEB
Biohome products: www.filterpro.co.uk
Small mesh bags for media: geni.us/DtoexHC
The Eheim Ecco 300 is a really nice filter with a secure locking mechanism and efficient use of space internally - plastic does not feel 'cheap' like it does on the new Pro 4 range of canister filters.
Although the 'pre-filter' is not really needed it is a decent size to catch really heavy muck and save the foams from being prematurely clogged so it does help to extend maintenance times.
In summary - a great little filter which makes provision for effective mechanical, biological and chemical filtration. When upgraded it should provide a full cycle for a normally stocked tropical community tank of around 150 litres (40 US gallons), heavily stocked tank of around 75 litres (20 US gallons)
This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity - If you have a filter you'd like me to feature in a video then please contact me on:
sales@filterpro.co.uk
07772848730 (Richard)
Anyone who sends a filter will have it upgraded and returned to them for free and the only cost you will pay is how much it costs to ship it to me - I'm helping to boost your filter and the resulting videos will hopefully be useful to viewers all over the world so it's a win/win.
*Please do not send any filters without contacting me first as I want to try and cover every type of filter, not 20 of the same make and model*
Due to the high international shipping cost I am currently only taking filters from the UK but I'm hoping that as this series progresses a useful database of knowledge will be built up which will help viewers understand how their filters work, the limitations and the steps you could take to improve filtering capacity and efficiency.
The goal with any filter is to try and achieve FULL CYCLE filtration which is the reduction in ammonia, nitrite AND nitrate - if you look anywhere online you'll see people tell you that the nitrogen cycle in an aquarium ends with the production of nitrate which is removed by regular (often large) water changes.
That is HALF the cycle and is done by AEROBIC bacteria which favors highly oxygenated conditions and is very easy to grow on any surface.
The last part of the cycle (reduction in nitrate) is completed by ANAEROBIC bacteria which favors an environment which is very low or devoid of oxygen. It takes filter media with a very specific internal structure to support both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to allow for full cycle filtration but a suitably sized, well set up filter, will allow the full cycle to complete which results in more stable water conditions and less water changes (typically 10% every 1-2 weeks). Canister filters will generally offer the best provision for filter media but even internals can be significantly improved to boost water quality and fish health.
The following videos will be useful to anyone interested in learning more about filtration, bacteria and making the conditions for your fish as good as possible:
Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un
Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c
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Just bought this for my heavily planted 90ltr tank that I’m setting up I’ll be setting the filter up exactly like this, I ordered a few kilos of the bio home ultimate last night from you, glad I found this before I made the mistake of following the manufactures instructions as it’s my first time using canister filters.
Just got to wait for my co2 kit to arrive and for the tropica stockist to get some plants in stock, bloody lockdown screwing everything up.
Really enjoying this series. Not only do we see how to maximise the 'hidden' potential of these filters, it also acts to help identify good/bad design as well as quality of manufacture and make informed choices when it come to selecting one for our tanks. Vital as these are expensive purchases.
I'm glad you enjoy the videos - it's not a series I'm expecting mad views on but the point of it is exactly as you outlined: to take a look at the various filters out there and improve them whenever possible.
There are already a nation of vlogging stuff out there which has no real benefit to viewers so I'm really fortunate to be in a position to do something different, FOR my viewers, instead of the easy route of exploiting them for views and earnings as I'm well aware of what it is like to be in a position where I want to learn about specific products or processes and all I can find are fools talking nonsense, lol
Eventually this series will be a small part of something worldwide and massive which I'm really hoping will be of huge benefit for fish keepers all over the world.
You are my hero :) God bless ya man ! Been running two of these on a 396-ltr tank for six... yes six... years. Added & modified stages of internal media along the way, inc. Seachem Purigen... fish been happy, but thanks to you they're gonna be happier... can't thank you enough.
Markus-Question if I may. Have you had any issues with the priming handles breaking? Thanks
These are great little filters, very reliable and whisper quiet. Another good video.
I know this video is old but for anyone here now. I’ve just done this in my eheim filter after having it for 2/3 years running on the standard media and I’ve just followed this video (though used alfagrog instead of biohome) and I can say it definitely looks like there’s a difference. I’ll update in a couple months if I remember.
Hey hows it going
Tell us!
The top bonus tray ! How could I not think of that myself. Great to see the adrenalin rush when you realise there was more space to fill up 😁
I like how you explain the mechanics of this filter step by step, very clear to me now thanks
Great work Richard, thanks for all the info, thumbs up and best regards from Kiwi-land, Down Under.
Did this to my Eheim Ecco Pros 2036 and 2236. Both canisters are packed with BioHome Ultimate which house the beneficial bacteria keeping my 75 gallon tank free of ammonia and nitrite. Thank you Richard (pondguru) and GreatWave Engineering, US Distributor of Biohome® Media
Just set up my ecco pro 3000. By placing each individual piece of Biohome ultimate/ultra mini (I have a mixture) I managed to get almost 2kg in the canister. I did like up the top tray to ensure the lid was as full as I could get it, but I did not put the carbon pad in at that stage. I placed some pieces of biohome in the small circular space in the middle of the pre filter and I cut a thin piece of carbon foam as a lid above the central circular space.
It's nearly 5am and I have found this video and ordered everything needed - I hate the plastic media in this filter, it doesn't seem to do anything. Looking forward to fixing it :) thanks!
I would love to see what you can could do with a fluval flex or any of the all in one aquariums and love the series!!
Spot on again Richard. Seems like alot of manufacturers set these filters up so replacement media's are needed more often.
I’ve just set up one of these, the first time I’ve used a canister filter so am a bit clueless..... mine came with 2 different kinds of bio balls etc already in it to which I added the bio rings from my previous tank. It also has the weird black plastic tubes so I guess my new project is to replace them 😂 it’s only been set up a week so far though
Found it!
My filter!
I have seen a few of your videos before, and I did pimp this very same filter in a similar way.
Bottom tray coarse, medium and fine filter pad, then using Eheim Substrat Pro filtermaterial in the top trays.
I save the coal filter until I need it though, I only use it if I have to medicate the fishes, then I use it after the medication period is over.
I use it as a prefilter in a 280 L aquarium, giving me about 10 L of Eheim Substrat Pro total including the internal filter.
That aquarium are by far my slowest to build up any nitrate, and of course, it have zero ammonia and nitrite, even though it is fairly heavily stocked.
I have plans to pimp the filters of my other aquariums too, I hope it will turn out as good as this one.
Thank you for this series, every serious fishkeeper should look at it, it have thaught me about the full filter cycle after having aquariums for over 20 years!
I had never heard that nitrate could be broken down before, only that it could be picked up as plant nutrition and build up slower in heavily planted tanks.
All sounds good to me and I'm glad you like the videos as although it costs me a fair bit to make them I think it is important to share this information.
Pondguru
I'm very thankful you share this knowledge!
Do you have a Patreon account or something where I can give something back?
Or just use Biohome next time?
Money?, no way, man - I'm dead against patreon or gofundme as I think if you're passionate enough about something you'll do it for the help it brings to others and the pursuit of money is the search for unhappiness.
Having people buy the media is a good side-effect of making these videos as it helps me support myself and afford to give it away wherever I can, lol
Seriously though I just want to see people set filters up properly for the sake of their fish as so many suffer in terrible conditions.
Pondguru
Thanks, glad to hear you are a "fishes first" man!
Richard - what about putting all of the plastic media at 3:42 into the round top pre-filter ring tray that had the blue coarse foam; that way, it can catch most of large size muck up top itself, and then, we can have the foams combo for the trays below.
Anything is possible. I prefer the foam up there but the way I'm setting up filters in this series is only one possible way of doing it.
Pondguru aah ok. Makes sense. BTW, any chance you can do a PIMP-MY-FILTER episode with one of the hang-on-back filters that typical nano tanks come armed with? They have VERY Minimal space to work with and are frustrating to have :(
Yes if somebody sends me one I will feature it no problem.
Hmmm.. I'd send you one if I could / were living in the UK. Sigh :( I hope somebody does
I have mine set up with all 3 trays full of Biohome and a Filter Booster from All Pond Solutions ( hose connections are a bit messy but it works ). When I bought my filter it came with a complete set of mechanical and biological media .Those black plastic things , medium foam ,fine pad , a ceramic media and sintered glass .
Excellent information. I can't believe how much you improved the filtration abilities over the manufacturers setup. You had to at LEAST doubled it's abilities
Alternatively you can use the in tank pre filters on this model and fill the top ring with fine floss, that way you can fill all 3 compartments with bio media and the floss is a lot easier to change being at the top 😉
Dear sir,you are useing filter,but there isn't this filter in here.Pls,you can said, Can I use another filter?thank you.
It's cool that this Eheim filter has trays. I have the eheim 2215 (started on a 70l tank, moved to a 180l tank) and it's so annoying that it doesn't include any kind of tray or basket. Still trying to figure out a good way to put the fine filtration pad under the biological media. It's also pretty inconvenient for maintenance since that fine pad needs to be replaced pretty often. I've learned a lot from these videos, next filter maintenance session I'm going to pimp that thing, starting with adding more biological media, since I still have a bit of room in there for it. Thanks!
Does all that compacted media effect flow rate?
My eco pro as standard is roughly 50-60% flow rate stated by manufacturer!
@@sailyui remove everything, replace with siporax or other biomech , use just a coarse for water input. try this. I bet it will improve the flow and the only maintenance you'll have to do is to clean the input coarse now and then.
Eheim mech superb mechanical filter and better than sponges.i also thought that a collection of plastic rings would not do any good for my eco pro 200 but when i put it ,doing extra ordinary job as mechanical filter and i wash my filter in duration of 6-8 months .water always remains crystal clear and no death of fishes in summer time with temp 42°c in environment without any fan or cooler.
Please can you do a video on how to pimp the filter on a deco 54 litres fish tank
Nice video. I would like to see you do a Marineland 360 and a fx6.
Yolanda Herbert Yippee, I agree with both requests. You know, I don't think Pondguru has any idea what he's gotten himself into. Imagine the countless requests he's been inundated with since starting this golden series🤦🏾.
Not sure about the Marineland filter as we don't see many in UK but I have shot an FX6 video which needs editing down. I'll keep making the videos until people stop sending filters even though it is costing a small fortune as it should eventually build up a useful resource of information for anyone searching information on how their filter works and exploring options of how it could be improved.
I can call myself a "Pondguru follower/expert". LOL
I have a 360 and FX4 on my 125. Just follow his rule: coarse foams to more fine........followed by media (biohome ultimate...........and lots of it!!!)
The 360 flow goes bottom to top. So, leave the coarse foam on the bottom tray....factory spec. Then in the tray right above it, I put a fine pad. Then, I plopped the media on top of the fine pad (the fine pad is thin, leaving plenty of room).......and the tray above it is straight biohome ultimate. Each piece of biohome ultimate is roughly 10 grams, usually more like 9.5grams (dry weight). In the smaller trays in a Fluval 406 I could get roughly 650-700 grams per tray!!! I need to clean my canisters (possibly tonight)...........if I do, I will see how much biohome I got in those trays, as they are much larger in the 360.
The FX filter flow goes top to bottom!!!! So, leave the foams that circle, and then put your bumpy course foam ON THE TOP TRAY, bumpy side UP, and I have a blue foam under it. All other space in the circular trays below are filled with media. Again, I will count how much is in my FX4 when I clean it.
Hope this helps ya.
Hello, do you have any links for wavy filters and masses? Is the white filter a wadding?
I want to recreate this system for my aquarium, thank you very much :)
Think I'll purchase an eheim and set it up like this. Your video was spot on as usual. Great job again.
Wouldn't putting the carbon pad after the biohome cause the same issue as you described at the beginning?
If you are talking about the clogging issue, it wouldn't have the same effect. If he put the fine filter pad where he put the carbon one, the dirt would go through the media until it reached the pad and risk clogging the media. Since he put the fine filter pad and the rough pads in the bottom tray, they removed the dirt particles before they reached the media, therefore avoiding the clogging issue.
I know its not the exact same effect, but its close enough given how long media like biohome should last you. There really shouldn't be anything impeding the flow of water after the initial mechanical, just a straight shot through and out. I've yet to see a filter that doesn't experience some type of bypass.
Although this is sort of a moot point, those carbon pads just don't last long, or even work well (I believe they're originally designed for air filtartion). Much better off with something like ROX 0.8 in a mesh bag, cheaper and much more effective.
@@Hartwig870 For the limited time that the pad will actually be viable, the positioning is fine. Most people use their pad once and then never bother to replace the carbon pad.
Carbon is good in new tanks, overstocked tanks or when water changes are done poorly. Once the tank matures it isn't even needed unless trying to get rid of medication or tannins etc.
I think carbon can be useful in almost any tank, you just need to know what it is and isn't able to handle. If you grow plants and/or have expensive lighting, I'd probably spend the 5 bucks a month and use carbon. th-cam.com/video/JP5Vu6OvLOI/w-d-xo.html
I also live in a mining town with a smelter, so I have concerns about what might floating around in the air so I use CupriSorb and again, carbon.
Another good pimp my filter Richard. Always enjoy watching. All the best Aengus
Richard, I have a EHEIM professionel 4+ 350. the foam pads are at the top of this filter from the factory. I'm adding biohome media. I also ordered the 3 foam pads. Where should they go on the top or bottom. Im not sure about the waterflow on this filter. I love your video's and you have really inspired me with your advise. Thank you, Domingo
The filter you have works in exactly the same way as this one so would be set up exactly the same - just imagine that the trays of this one are square instead of round.
I haven't had one of the pro 4 series to film yet but they work exactly the same as this one.
I'm glad you enjoy the videos - thanks for watching.
As far as I can remember I think the trays of the 350 take about 1.2kg of biohome ultimate each.
He just loves his dimples
Здравствуйте! Подскажите, пожалуйста, как называется наполнитель в двух верхних отсеках? 🙂
Nice video. I would like to check how would you set up FX6. I was looking to see if you made a video for that but cannot find one. If you don't mind, could you please make a video for FX6 or Fluval 406 etc or write on here. Thank you.
I have shot a video on the FX6 and just need to edit it down - hopefully be out next weekend.
It is a really nice filter.
Look forward to that. Just bought an fx6 for a tank a couple of weeks ago 😀
Pondguru👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
unsure if this would mess up the pump...
If you haven't sent this filter off yet, I'd double check that the top tray media can't enter or interfere with the impeller system. If you haven't checked, of course :)
Can you advice how much ultimate bio for a Ehime 130 echo pro. Thank you I have a 75 ltr fresh water tank. Oase
Could you not have put more media in the tray where you put the carbon pad,then put the carbon foam in the top circle tray were you put the last bit of media,would this not have given you even more media in filter?.
Like a backwards mini fx6 lol.. speaking of.. if recently replaced the bottom tray outside foams on my fx6 with bioballs in an effort to catch the heavy muck similar to dropping them in the bottom of normal canisters.. as this is your original idea do you think this will be more efficient in terms of keeping the other outside foams cleaner? My intent is to not have to replace the bottom tray perimeter foams as often as they take the brunt of the muck and bio balls should be easier to clean out then the denser foam. I’m also thinking of replacing the top tray perimeter foams with additional media bags and at that time likely replace the middle perimeter tray with nothing but poly. As good as the fx6 is it’s severely lacking in biomedia capacity so I’m trying to “pimp my fx6” lol I want to remove the foams and pads from the top center tray and gain 2 more liters for matrix media. The only way I can see to accomplish this is by revamping the perimeter foam sections to make them more efficient for muck and fine filtering. Do you think this is a good idea or should I stick to the foams as there is lots of bypass in those perimeter areas due to the stupid fins they put in there.
If the FX filters have a problem it is the fins on the inside of the outer rings allow water to flow straight up from tray to tray so you're limited to the foams in the outer sections to prevent that. With bioballs in the bottom ring water will fly through them, up the channels and straight into the top tray which would then need foams and fine pad in to catch the muck since the matrix is a variable quality mirco-porous media it will clog extremely quickly if it is not kept very clean.
I'd just stick to the foams for the outer rings although you can fit coarse and medium grade foam in there quite easily as I'll show in an upcoming video on the FX6 - that frees up some space in top tray meaning you only need a fine pad on top of the top tray and can fill all trays with media of your choice.
Fluval do vastly overstate what size of tank the FX filters will be suitable for (by about 3x) but like other manufacturers they don't mention full cycle filtration - they very well may keep the promised 1500 litres clean due to the high turnover rate and ample foams but an average tank of around 500 litres is all you can expect proper filtration from the FX5 /6 due to the media trays only holding 5kg of biohome ultimate in total. Therefore the vast majority of people using these will never see a full cycle and will consider them to be nitrate factories which is a major bummer as they are well made and can be made more efficient (and can provide a full cycle when correctly sized and set up properly).
Pondguru thanks for the response.. yeah those fins really screw up everything even with factory foams there is a lot of bypass still. About the only thing I can really think of that will pack tight enough to eliminate is poly fill. Next time I break it down I might go ahead and try cutting up some pond foams in a way to get them to fill the fin areas using medium and fine then try stuffing the top outer ring with poly.
Amazing series, perfect reviews and awesome advice! Thank you very much! Really like your channel!
Could you do a sump? I'd love to hear your thoughts on the best sump set ups. I have a 90 gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump that I've set up in a similar fashion to your canister methods, but I know it's not perfect.
Cheers for this, mate. I'm awaiting BioHome Ultimate and 3-part foam filter set from GreatWave in the USA. Looking to implement your brilliant reorganization of media in my older Eheim 2036. Will also add a Eheim 2236 to better maintain my 75 gallon African Cichlid tank. 🤜🤛
Can you please do one of the fluval 106/206/306/406. They are set up pretty bad with wasted space. Would love to see if ya can improve
I shot a video on the 206 last week and just need to edit that down for the series but if someone sends others in that range I will do them too as people will be searching for information on specific models even though they all work the same.
Pondguru Good Stuff looking forward to that. Thanks
Can I also use this filter for smaller tanks? My father has a 60 liters Dennerle Cube.
I love these videos. Have you very compared how much media you can fit neatly in the filter? I have stacked you bio home ultimate very neatly and fit quite a bit more.
Yes you will always get more by neatly stacking.
Can you please do a video on the ehiem professional 4...........
@Pondguru Could I fill The whole Canister with Bio Media, if I use the Eheim Pre Filter?
Hi Richard, what bioload would you consider a standard one for a formula of 1kg of Biohome per 100 liters? How many fish and what size of adult fish. Let us say Malawi tank, 800 liters, 8 kilos of Biohome. How many venustus would you put in OR how many L. caeruleus? Thanks.
lol, how long is a piece of string? - every tank is differently set up but your last video you uploaded shows a stock of Malawi / Tanganyikan which is about what I'd expect from an African Cichlid tank regardless of size.
That would generally be classed as heavily stocked, not because the fish are massive but because there are plenty of them and they eat a fair amount of food and therefore produce way more waste than a normal tropical tank with a mix of fish in.
Therefore it could take anywhere from 1.5kg to 2kg of biohome ultimate per 100 litres to achieve a full cycle - you may get it with less but from feedback we've received over the last 10 years or so it would generally take around 1kg per 100 litres for a normally stocked tropical tank and anywhere from 1.5kg to 2kg per 100 litres for a heavier / heavily stocked tank which would include cichlid tanks / predator tanks / goldfish tanks / fry growing tanks - basically tanks which would be generally quite heavily stocked and heavily fed.
Ammonia and nitrite reduction is relatively easy and doesn't need much media but it is that last part of the cycle (anaerobic side) which needs a large enough population of anaerobic bacteria to process the nitrate generated from the first (aerobic) stage and ultimately supporting enough of both types of bacteria requires a certain amount of media based on stock.
Thanks, the last part of the cycle was exactly my point. It is difficult, though, to measure the size of denitrification by biohome. Btw, I have only biohome in all my filters. I know this is not an easy question, but what nitrate levels would you consider a success in my tank you saw 1 weeak after 50% water change? I like your videos, they are most informative on youtube.
Thank you, I stopped using Prime and Purigen many many months ago, I have an upflow algae scrubber from Santa Monica Filtration, Biohome media, and no visible algae on the glass. But I would not get as low as 10 ppm nitrates 1 weak after 10 nor 50% water change. Perhaps 25 or so. Sometimes higher. I guess I have 1.5 kg per 100 liters.
In your first comment you said you had 8kg in 800 litres - is that true? If so that is well under the recommended amount for a cichlid and if you're getting 25ppm a week after a water change that is a good result if you only have 1kg per 100 litres for a cichlid tank.
The first example was only a hypothetical, just to give you a scenario with venustus or labidochromis. Actually, I do only have 12 adults haps/peacocks in one tank with 1.5 kg per 100 liters. But the readings are 25 ppm or higher. I tried TETRA, API, and Salifert tests
Since the first line of filtering on that is at the top soon as you open it I would’ve placed a fine pad or poly there. Maintained would be weekly but it would only be 30sec to remove the top and replace the top poly. Then you could pack the rest full of biomedia. The center top cation is also perfect for chemical media of choice. Since first and last filtering is at the top these are your most accessed areas. Muck and chemical replacements.. you wouldn’t have to open the rest of the filter for month and even then long as the poly or fine pad is being replaced weekly it will be almost spotless inside. This is actually a very thought out design imop by someone who hates having to remove everything from their filter just to replace clogged fine pads and reassemble. It’s one of the things I like about the fluval designs. As many flaws as they have it takes just seconds to pop the top replace the fine pad and get it back into action.
If Ehiem was smart they would make a much larger version of this filter. Wouldn’t need to have a massive pump like the 2260 or fx6 but something that moves 300-350gph with 6-9l of bio media space for a decent price would become king of the canister filter market. If they could do this at a price point of $2-300 it would be a direct competitor to sunsun 304b and Marineland c360 which are the most canisters filters in the US. If they could sell it wo any media at all and get to the $200 mark even better. Although I do like the Ehiem mech for collecting muck the rest of their media leave much to be desired.. substrate pro is a flow killer cause it packs too dense. When it does this I’ve seem it create so much additional head restriction inside most canisters that it forces the trays to flex and bypass the media which is pointless.
That set up you propose sounds sensible to me and there are always multiple ways to achieve the same goal. I tend to assume that most people want to leave the filters as long as possible between maintenance as that is all I heard in the many years of having a shop, lol
Therefore I will always show a way which extends maintenance times and hopefully will provide a full cycle (when a filter is properly sized and well set up) but what I would love to do eventually is have viewers send me short video clips for compilation videos of 'viewers filters' - of how they have their particular filters set up where they explain what they have done and why they have done it.
I'm contemplating asking for video submissions of tanks all round the world to make compilation videos too - would be a good way for viewers to get their channels noticed and help with their subs.
Pondguru fully understand.. I’m always trying to pick my maintenance point for convince and time savings.. nothing beats a 20 second fine filter swap weekly if it eliminates 20 min monthly cleanings of the entire canister. I’d be glad to share my setups and philosophies behind them but you’ll notice they are mostly test trials of your basic principles lol. Although I can ever leave well enough alone. I have a tank where the bottom substrate is nothing but various bio media’s cause I’m always changing my setup trying to tweak them and make them as efficient as possible. This keeps them all cycled so I can compare different setups for best results. The one thing I’ve noticed on many different types and manufacturers of canisters... depending how much you restrict them with too much fine filter or too much dense packing media you can get almost all to create bypass. I would be willing to bet most people have done this and don’t know how to tell.
To those who read this.. if you open your bottom inlet top outlet canister (bottom to too flow) and you use proper mechanicals filtration in bottom tray... there should not be floating debris in the top when you open it and there also shouldn’t be any in the mid level trays. If you see this you are packing your trays too dense and restricting flow so much that the tray is flexing on the edges and allowing water to bypass the tray.. Marineland c series are very bad about this as they have very tall thin wall trays.
I think someone is sending up a Marineland filter to me this week so I'll bear that in mind. It may be a Marina filter though now that I think harder about it - I'm getting lost off with all these filters, lol
Pondguru lol.. I did setup my fx6 with nothing but poly on the outside rings where the foams go yesterday as I needed to suck out the muck from my daughters tank with new gravel I didn’t prewash lol. I have to say I’m a little perplexed.. I stuffed each section top to bottom complete full as much as I could wo over stuffing them. I even presoaked the polyfil to make sure I didn’t leave too much fluff. I opened it today now that her tank is clear... the outside poly hardly took any of the prefiltering. The bottom tray trapped a little and the finer gravel/dirt. The next two trays were pretty clean and the top center fine pad was a complete mess. Under that I had the factory bio sponge which looked clean but upon rinsing had lots of muck from The gravel. Under that I had another fine pad (I take the factory fine pads split in half so each fine pad was 1/2 the factory pad thinkness which for fluval is really think as they are around 1-1/2” think) the bottom fine pad was again completely saturated with muck from the gravel. Either I too lightly packed the outside of each tray or no matter how much you stuff them there is still bypass no accounting for those dumb fins. When I assembled my trays today and placed back into the canister I noticed a good 1/4” gap between the trays and the canister. I’ve yet to figure out how to fill this area. I bought some 1/4” washable ac filter foams that would likely work however I’m scared to use them. I noticed when filling all the outside tray sponge areas it took me a solid 30min to get the filter primed completely. (I’m impatient when the chip turned the motor off to go into purge I unplugged and replug as it seems to remove air faster then waiting for the chip to purge the system on its own) I did this for a long time before the filter would hold flow. Best I can tell the fx6 has massive bypass built into the outside trays as part of the auto purge design. The inner trays work very well. But I’m having a very hard time balancing bypass and prefiltering with the out side portions.
When I put it back on my tank today I placed about 20 small bio balls in the bottom on the ramp until they reached same height as the bottom of the seal where the bottom tray seals against the ring. I then placed factory foams in the outside of the bottom tray. I then “stuffed very tightly” the outside of the next two trays. At the top center section I removed half my matrix and put a full thickness factory fine pad. I’m going to let this run for a couple weeks then see what each section looks like. I hope the top fine pad is pretty clean and the poly is dirty. The tank I put this on is a 60g juvie cichlid grow out tank with over 30 4-6” fish so to say a week of fine pad is all I get normally is an understatement. I usually replace my fine pads every 5-6 day’s and by then they are almost dark brown. 2 weeks and I’ve seen my Marineland c360 clog and fail to pump. I’m very interested to see how you setup a fx5-6 filter.. my advice when’re as most time you just do your basic setups knowing what will work.. on the fx pumps you actually need to test it for a while first. They are seemingly very hard to hot rod cause of what appears to be factory built in bypass.
As for the Marineland or marina lol.. really hope it’s the Marineland filter.. if been struggling with my c360 for about a year now trying to eliminate bypass but still get effective mechanical filtration. To date the best I’ve come up with is running both factory corse sponges in the bottom tray and saving my fine pads for the top tray. This has yielded the best water quality and least gunk in the other trays. My second tray runs 2l of biomax, 3rd is around 3l of Ehiem substrate pro(have to be careful here when trying to max media as it’s easy to not have the next tray fully seat. If it’s hard to get the top plastic piece on that holds the top tray media in place then something is over stocked) and top is around 2l of pond matrix with a fine pad stuffed on the top. I used to run chemipure blue in the top tray on top of a fine pad but my tank runs so dirty I was exhausting the chemipure that should last 4-6 months in under 2. This current setup is yielding me 2.5ish Ppm daily nitrate production before adding the fx6 which is still seeding with around 5l of matrix that is only 3-4 weeks old. 2.5ppm daily with 2 feedings (there’s a turtle in the tank too lol) is the best I’ve seen so far. It allows for %60 water changes biweekly with a 80-90% every 2 months. I know a lot of stress on the fish but they are used to it and I’ve not lost one yet since doing this. In fact leaving just enough water in the tank for a 90% change and them still able to breath seems to reduce aggression in the tank.
Either way I’m very interested to see what you come up with on either of these filters. I feel I’m pushing both to the absolute usable extremes but I’m not “pond guru” just a normal guy who try’s to follow others advice with enough sense to know when I need to try and tweak it for my own use.
Thanks, great information. Quick question can you put biological media directly on top of the fine filter pad as I have space in my canister tray.
I just answered this in an email you sent a few minutes after posting here.
I've got a eheim pro II 2028 on my trigon 350. Would the ecco 300 be okay to add to this tank. Or would it be too small. I've taken the original internal filter out.
Do you think it's worth adding any additional media in the very bottom of this filter, under the trays?
I wonder if those media trays would fit into an Eheim Classic ??
Nope it doesn't :)
probably a stupid question, but how often do you need to change the biohome media over ? Do you just give it a rinse in your tank water that you syphon off when you do water changes and chuck it back into the filter ?
Yes just rinse it in water you have drained off during maintenance - it will last for years.
last question................. does the outlet need to be above the water level of the aquarium or can I have the outlet under the water ? I am going to be adding this to a tank that already has an air driven filter running to there is plenty of agitation of the surface to help with reoxygenation as I have got a couple of airstones in there also. I am basically looking at pimping a biorb105 to have much better filtration using the ecopro 300 while keeping the central air filter and the additional airstones for agitation. Probably overkill but i want to try it anyway
@@qubitmusictechnology As long as you have some sort of water disturbance at the surface it doesn't matter if the main filter outlet is below the water line. Having the air driven filter should allow for enough breaking of water surface tension so no worries there.
Thanks for the video, I have now set mine filter up correctly. I’m also running an intake sponge.
So I have 2 of these filters (2213) what do you think of running them in line? First with mechanical filtration and the second with just biological.
Can someone explain why it only does 160litre if its a 300litre filter?
Was going to get it for my 125litre but thinking I might need to go bigger
(my other channel) Basically manufacturers of filters pull the 'recommended' figures out of their backsides and they are based on nothing.
If you have normally stocked 125 litre tank then I'm sure this filter will be fine as long as it is sensibly set up.
Unlike filter manufacturers I work on the recommendations based on how much of the Biohome media a specific filter will hold in a quest to achieve a full cycle (natural reduction in nitrate). Any piss-pot filter will achieve 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite but it takes specific conditions to achieve a full cycle which will result in reduced nitrate and it has taken over a decade of questions and feedback to arive at the figures I quote. The figures I give out in the 'Pimp My Filter' series may seem pessimistic but they are based on a full cycle - the disappointing thing is that 99% of other channels only talk about half a job (0 ammonia and 0 nitrite) and large regular water changes to control the nitrate - that tells you the filter is too small or not set up properly.
I'm planning a video on Germ theory vs Terrain theory for the PondGuru channel as the vast majority of people have never heard of Terrain theory but it is critical to understanding why things go wrong in an aquarium. Germ theory benefits companies which operate to a pharmaceutical business template whereas Terrain theory benefits the fish keeper, the body and Nature.
That's the reason we don't get taught Terrain theory in school, lol.
Most doctors have never heard of it either and that's all by design to sell more products and keep people (and aquariums in a state of dis-ease).
Hopefully the video I make will benefit many people but it probably won't be appreciated until it is copied in years to come by other (more popular) channels - that's how it normally works.......
@@ThousandYardStare thanks for the feed back. I've been running my 125 since aug last year. I do weekly water changes where i take out roughly 23 litres. my nitrate is never higher than 5, 0 amonia and 0 nitrite. At first the nitrate was high, but with water changes and maturing the filter its been stable at 5 for a long time.
im running a 60 litre spone filter at one side and have my U3 in the other side, but really dont like it so wanted to move to external.
i'm getting mixed answers whether or not the tank is "sensibly" stocked. i think its on the verge of max stock
I have 13 rummynoses
6 neons
bristlenose
5 rabbit snails
2 bamboo shrimp
4 kuhli loaches
6 corys
2 guppys
and an army of bladder snails that wont bugger off 😂
is there an external you could remcommend or a size i should go for?
@@Ss-ws7jm If you're running at 5ppm of nitrate a week after a water change I wouldn't spend extra money upgrading the filtration - 5ppm after a week is excellent and could be considered a full cycle , However, if you wanted to move to an external then the Ecco Pro 300 would be a decent choice.
@@ThousandYardStare thanks. will give it some more thought. just feel the U3 doesnt clean as well. I done my water change yesterday and already there is plenty of muck showing on the sand. it also makes a horrible buzzing/rattling sound every now and again. thanks for your time in replying, its appreciated.
Hi Richard, I find these videos really informative. I have just bought another Fluval FX6, and wonder if you have 'pimped' one of them. If not I would really like to see you do one. I live in Carlisle so am not too far from you and could bring it to you if you are interested.
Bill
Dear Bill,
You're a couple of weeks late unfortunately as I have already filmed an FX6 video and just need the time to edit it down into something watchable. It takes 5kg of biohome ultimate if you just go for a fine pad on top of top tray and 3 trays of media (since the trays are surrounded by decent foams) but in the video I also upgraded the foams surrounding the trays to a more graded approach so water hit coarse then medium grade foams which are same size as stock foams . The FX series are good filters.
I have 8 videos in this series uploaded now plus another one which is done ready to upload but there are a further 6-7 which are shot and need editing so it is looking like it will run for a while yet.
Feel free to have a ride over here no problem as I work from home, just give me a ring first to make sure I'm going to be in on 07772848730.
Regards,
Richard
Looking forward to the FX6 video Richard. I now have 3 FX6s so it will be a very helpful video. Sounds like I'll be ordering a lot more biohome!
Many thanks for these great videos.
No worries, the way I set the FX6 up it looks very cool as the foams are different colours but most importantly it allows for better filtration which is the goal of this series.
Best sub £100 filter?
What exactly is the brown pelletlike filtermedia? Thx great vid! This will be my next filter.
That would be the biohome ultimate - link in video description and pinned comment.
@@pondguru thx.
Hi Richard, I have an ecco pro 200. Think it's the same as the 300 with one less media basket. Have ordered one of your kits and am wondering about pimping it a bit differently. Do you think there would be a case for using a coarse foam on the filter intake, then medium in the prefilter slot and fine in the very bottom of the main tank. This would leave 2 full baskets for biohome. Another variant would be to put fine foam and biohome together in the lower basket, what are your thoughts on that? cheers and keep up the good work!
As long as the foams, pad and media are in the right order then anything is possible. The only thing I'd worry about however is the pad being crushed under the media if it was in the bottom tray and if it was under the trays there is no guarantee that the water will flow through it properly there but give it a go and see what happens - filtration is all about experimentation and the things I show in this series of videos are just one way to set up a particular type of filter.
The eheim pre-filters are good and will definitely save the canister from lots of muck entering it.
Hi Pondguru
My filter intake pipe has a pre filter + the filter itself has a pre filter....my question is ...would it be possible not to have sponge in the bottom tray...that is all the 3 trays has bio home media ?
A sponge at the bottom could clog pretty quick. A better solution would be to run a small prefilter 'canister' prior to the ecco pro. That way you maintain the prefilter and won't need to touch your ecco pro full of bio for months.
If you had of meshed the dimples of the course and medium foams together, then cut the discs out simultaneously. They would have taken less space in the bottom tray and the fine filter wool wouldn't have been so compressed.
You should watch his video on why he does it that way
Can you not elaborate, so I don't have to hunt for the answer?
I've dropped my eheim pro and cracked it will silicone seal it
Always you use biohome for filter medi not eheim substrate pro or other media not at all .what are the reason ,just shed light .thanks
Would those trays work in a Eheim classic 600?
Nice filter, but I heard the lever on the pump head is pretty sensitive and gets broken easy.
First thing I thought. Cheap plastic crap made in China.
Right. Fluval is the last crap. Better take a Sunsun then.
I had one of these. It lasted about 3 months. The round top piece is heavy and fits tightly on top of the thin green plastic 'bucket'. Just trying to put the top back on one time the bucket cracked. That was the end of that. This filter has other rather flimsy plastic parts too, so not recommended.
steve, did you buy one before or after Eheim started outsourcing to China?
Al B Eheim is made in Germany.
when are you going to make your own filter
Hello Richard, great vid bud, thanks for that :).
I'm a bit confused by what you got in the filter when it was sent to you though, especially as the filter looked brand new?
The one I got has the plastic mech pipes in the bottom tray same as yours but it has bio mech in the next one up and then substrat pro in the next one up, I think the trays in yours where empty?
It then has a fine pad followed by the carbon pad to place on top of the substrat pro....thats in the order eheim recommend its positioned of course.
Oh, it did have the blue pre filter same as your one.
I think there may be different buying options or maybe it had been emptied out before being sent up. Either way I would have emptied most of the stuff out anyway, lol
Pondguru Thanks for the reply Richard.
In your video it looked like the filter you fettled had a two pin plug so I assumed it was possibly meant for foreign climbes and maybe eheim don't supply the media with their filters to some countries....just my mind workin overtime lol.
Hi, this is a great vid, to increase the efficiency if I use one of the EHEIM pre-filters ( or one of the bigger canister pre-filters that you have reviewed am I right in thinking I could replace the sponges in the bottom tray for bio media? AND then does that pre- filter ring on this Ecco become null and void (as the fine pad in the pre- wouldn’t allow muck thru big enough to be caught) so could I remove the blue ring and put more bio media in its holder instead ( I know the holder directs the water flow)?
Cheers
Andy
You asked same question by email a few minutes after posting this - answered there, no worries.
Over here in the states I can not find that dimpled filter foam. 😩
You may have to get it from amazon (from China) geni.us/ABzyp3
Hopefully that link will work.
Not sure why it isn't sold in the US as that's all we have over in Europe for pond filters and it works great for aquarium filters too.
So Richard what is in your opinion the best canister filter available????
The best one I have filmed so far would be either the FX6 (Fluval) or the Aquis 1250 (Aqua One) or maybe even the Dennerle Scapers Flow as it is very different but all that footage has yet to be edited down so all those videos are coming up soon.
Hi! Thanks for your advice and hard work!
I just bought a Fluval FX6, do you have any recommendation on this filters? I was thinking on a pre filter for the intake (Filter-Max III Pre Filter by aquarium tech) what do you think about this? Thanks in advance, greetings from Guatemala.
A pre-filter is a good idea and although I'm not familiar with that one you mention it looks decent.
I am due to upload a video on the FX6 this week so look out for that.
Pondguru thanks for your quick reply! Looking forward for your new video!
I forgot to ask, what do you think I should do with a Fluval 106? Would it be a good idea to use it alongside a fx6 with different media perhaps? Thanks.
With the 106 yoiu're really stuck with the foams down the side but they are quite effective at removing coarse muck. Bottom tray would be for medium and fine pad leaving the top tray for media - you can fit approx. 500g of biohome ultimate in the top tray. It is fine to use it in addition to another filter on the tank if needed.
Pondguru thanks.
Waiting for your new video, hope it’s up soon.
What would you recommend for a 75ltr tank?
Aquael filter ask your local fish store salesman for the appropriate size
Will adding all this foam make my pump work harder, wearing it out?
There is nothing different really being added, it's just putting stuff in the right order so it will make no difference to the life / output of the pump other than hopefully increasing the intervals between maintenance.
Pondguru OK thanks I've been and bought some 3 stage filter and have done this, so hopefully will be better 👍
Wow this setup made my filter hum like crazy, changed it back to how it was and it's quiet again
Sounds like you had air trapped in the pump chamber as there is no reason why moving anything about inside the filter would affect the running of the pump.
@@pondguru update : tried it again and no change in sound, must of done something wrong the first time!
24 hours later - water is clear as anything, man this setup is awesome 🙂
Wow! Someone who sets up their Eheims similar to me. I use the Eccos strictly for mechanical (1/3 coarse foam, 1/3 medium, 1/3 fine) and then use a Classic for bio filled with bioballs with a prefilter sponge on the intake. I clean the prefilter once a week and my biomedia stays clean (I open that canister every 5 years or so). My easier to clean Ecco I clean once a month or two - and I mean I CLEAN it! I squeeze those sponges in tap water until they're like new. Mechanical in one filter (yes, of course bio will grow there) and biological in the other. (flow through, no where for the gunk to stay.) Been doing it that way for over 20 years. More expensive - probably. Redundant - yes. Easy to maintain - absolutely. If only you could get the Eheim Pickups in the USA again...
Sounds good to me and I'm glad it's working for you. Thanks for watching.
Gutes Video. Was für ein Dialekt ist das? 🙂
Es ist Englisch - ich lebe westlich von Newcastle
What's your best recommendation for a filter of this size. In the same rice range? I've got a 64l at the moment but I want at least another 100l set up to run off one filter.
The size of filter will depend on the stock of fish but I'd say something the size of a All Pond Solutions 1400EF+ which will hold 3kg of mediawould be big enough to filter 2 tanks with a combined total of 164 litres even if they were quite heavily stocked. The UV is essential when running multiple tanks from one filter too.
If i switch out all my media to bio home will I lose my filters cycle?
In a mature filter it is best to swap out the old bio media for the new media over a 3-4 week period to maintain the biological action of the filter. The biohome matures very fast but removing all mature media and replacing with new in one go is asking for trouble in most tanks.
How much biohome media did this take to fill b4 I get some?
I had to watch the video back to remember but at 08:30 I say how much media fits in the filter (about 1.5kg)
Pondguru thanks mate
Hello there. I am just at the beginning of my research. I want to buy a fishtank sized: 100x50x50cm (pure volume 250l ). Would the Ecco Pro 300 be enough for that or should i buy another?
The eheim ecco pro 300 is rated for up to 300l, but in reality it is better suited for 160l (as per the eheim website). I've had it on a 200l for a few months having thought it to be rated for 300l. Though I have been planning to get a second to work alongside it.
Do you have real life dimensions of that.. Will it fit in a fluval roma cabinet 125 with shelf?? And Great video
The dimensions of all the Eheim filters will be on the Eheim website for sure.
My 1st canister filter is about 9 months old now thanks to the pondguru video a while back, the bottom- tray-mechanical-only works wonderful in keeping the bio-medias clean so my only maintenance is the sponges while the bio-media requires a couple of dips in tank water to be clean.
albeit it is a hassle to prime a cheap canister filter.
Sounds good to me and the media will stay clean which is the main thing - groovy.
Hello 👋!
I really liked your video, I wanted to ask you some questions 🙏.
I bought an aquarium kit last month, specifically the Eheim Vivaline LED 240 liters, my intention is to create in this aquarium a biotope for tropical fish, but "low Tech", without Co2.
With this aquarium kit is included a stand with door of really good quality, an eheim heater of 150w, a led screen with very correct and sufficient features for a "low tech Aquarium" with Easy plants with low requeriments, and this kit have included too the filter that you present here, the Ecco pro 300... Yes is included too, is a really good Kit of Aquarium "Pug & Play" with a really good price (well... Here in Deutchland 😅)
My question is whether this filter really capable and enough for my aquarium, or I need to buy a larger filter? I had thought to buy an Eheim professionel 4+ 600 (I love Eheim products), and keep the Ecco Pro 300 filter in case some day I have an "emergency" to use it, since the filtering charges of a high-end Eheim filter and an ecco pro are the same , so if you need to use it, you should only change the loads from one filter to another.
I also seemed to understand that you said that eheim is one of the few brands that really gives true data about the liters per hour wye move their filters, is that right? Or I got it wrong?
In the case of JBL for example, its filters equipped with filtering load and length of tubes of 1'50m hardly work half of the liters per hour that they advertise, so they affirm themselves in their instruction manual of JBL....
In conclusion, would you recommend starting my aquarium with this filter? Do you think it's too small for my aquarium? Would you recommend some superior model?
By the way ... Can I get your products for my filters, here in Germany? I also have a small aquarium of 54 liters gross, it is planted and inhabits 5 Guppy and two young Ancistrus, my idea is to transfer them to the aquarium of 240 liters when I start it, but I still have many doubts about the equipment of my big aquarium. This small 54-liter aquarium is equipped with a small backpack filter specifically Acuaclear 20. Could you help me with that small filter to make it useful for my little aquarium? How can I contact you to buy your products and help me, advise and advisors to configure and choose my filters and my aquariums?
Sorry for all these questions, congratulations for your video, it is really a good video and you do a good job on your channel 💪👍
Greetings and a big hug from Germany.
Hello, I find myself in your position. It's 5 years since you posted but what did you end up doing? Did you use the same filter or upgraded. I want to get a vivaline 240 and wondering the same things as you. Thank you.
@@mansikapur3013 Hello! No problem! I'm happy to help you, especially help you not make the same mistakes I made. Unfortunately, when I started, I had very few people by my side who had the slightest interest in advising me and helping me in a selfless way, that is, behind the "supposed advice" there was no intention of "selling me something."
Also now after all these years I can be more precise and truthful in my advice and response, I also have much more knowledge and experience now.
I will give you my opinion on the Eheim Vivaline 240 Aquarium, the Eheim Ecco pro 300 filter and the biological material in 3 messages, so that it is not so boring or long.
The Eheim Ecco pro 300 filter is a good filter, but it is NOT enough for a 240 liter aquarium.
The Eheim Vivaline 240 Aquarium Set is a bit "that", it is a very good aquarium (I am referring to the glass tank and the finishes) with a mediocre base cabinet, a filter that is too small for an aquarium of those dimensions and lighting Quite mediocre standard, only the heater (a little outdated by the way...) is up to what an aquarium of those dimensions needs.
Part by part:
- The Eheim Vivaline base cabinet is perhaps the simplest and most vulgar aquarium cabinet of all that I know, one door on each side, no back wall, no shelves or holes to place shelves... nothing... very very basic and mediocre, yes... it is spacious... because there is nothing there... just two large spaces separated by a wooden wall right in the middle
- The lighting is even insufficient for a normal planted aquarium, I'm not talking about plants with medium or high requirements, or if you use CO2 there. Like the filter, you should change the lighting or expand it unless you have few plants and very very low requirements and without a CO2 System.
As for the filter, my advice is that you buy another one and use it for an aquarium with a maximum of 100 liters, or better yet, save it in case you have an emergency. I assure you that in case of emergency, it is very appreciated to have a backup filter... problems usually occur when it is most difficult to obtain a solution... on a Saturday night... on a Sunday... you know what I mean. ..
I have an Oase BioMaster Thermo 600 filter in my Vivaline 240 aquarium.
But after that Eheim Vivaline 240 Aquarium, I bought 2 more aquariums of 240 liters, one of 126 liters, and 2 more aquariums of 450 liters.
The 240 liter aquariums that I bought after the Vivaline are:
- An Aquael OPTTISET 240 Aquarium, this Set includes the lid, the lighting (better than the Vivaline), the base cabinet (better than the Vivaline) and does not include a heater or filter, but the aquarium is much prettier than the Vivaline . Here in this aquarium I have an Aquael Ultramax 1500 filter.
- A Juwel Rio 240 LED aquarium also of 240 Liters For me this is my favorite, it is an "all inclusive", with a fixed internal filter (not removable) that is a Juwel patent, and a very good quality cabinet. In terms of quality, it is the best of these 3 aquariums, in second place I would choose without hesitation the Aquael OPTISET 240 Aquarium, and Eheim would always be my last option, or maybe not even that...
The Juwel Aquarium is an "all-in-one" aquarium, the quality of the base cabinet is impeccable, the standard LED lighting is of very good quality and more than enough for a good planted aquarium, and it incorporates an internal filter with heating included. The filter is permanently anchored to the back right side.
This filter is a Juwel patent and is without a doubt the best internal filter there is, and quite a bit better than many external filters I have had or know of.
Like everything in life, this filter has its unconditional fans and its detractors... there are people who buy Juwel Aquariums for their good quality/price ratio, and they remove the internal filter and buy a filter to use in the Juwel aquarium, there are also who uses the Juwel internal filter plus an external external filter at the same time in Juwel aquariums...
In my opinion it is a great filter that can be easily hidden behind plants, rocks, roots and decoration, the efficiency and effectiveness of this filter is incredible, and especially it is very practical in terms of maintenance, which you appreciate a lot especially if one of your external filters from the other aquariums breaks down and has a water leak, or simply on the day that it is "filter cleaning" and you have to load your external filters up and down, plus clean the hoses etc etc... then you know really evaluate the Juwel filter and the Juwel aquariums... and you will see that removing that filter from the aquarium to have an external filter is truly stupid.... also the consumption of a Juwel filter does not reach 10w.... that is You will notice it on your electricity bill.
@@mansikapur3013 Since I bought my first Juwel aquarium, all the ones I have bought later if there was a version with the same liter capacity in the Juwel brand, then I always bought the Juwel
As for external filters, for me the 2 best filters for aquariums up to 330 liters (after having tested practically all external filters) are without a doubt:
- Oase Biomaster Thermo 250 / 350 / 600.
- Aquael Ultramax 1000 / 1500 /2000
They are the quietest, with real and innovative solutions and very efficient.
In both filters you can clean the pre-filter weekly in just 3 or 4 minutes without having to open the entire filter, so you very easily extend the maintenance periods a lot and save yourself from having to carry the external filter from here to there every time. 1 or 2 months. Also note that both filters are extremely reliable.
The Oase BioMaster Thermo is much more expensive, it has the heater included, it is a very good quality product and from a great brand with a lot of prestige.
Aquael is surprisingly quiet, the quietest of all the external filters by far, very well made, good materials, very good price, very good capacity. It does not have built-in heating, nor is there currently a version of this filter with heating. But if that is not a problem for you, I will tell you that when I buy external filters, if I need them to be heated, my first option is always the Oase BioMasterThermo. And when I don't need or don't care that the filter has built-in heating, my first option always and without hesitation is the Aquael Ultramax ahead of any other brand, whatever it may be, including those Chinese filters that are so highly recommended here on this channel. .. and that so many times I have seen it break down quickly and flood living rooms in the house of some reckless friend who believed the "Good, pretty and cheap" story.
The aquael is super quiet and very efficient in any of its versions (1000, 1500, 2000). The 1500 lph version is enough for a 240 liter aquarium.
If you opt for the 2000lph version you may have to reduce the flow power a little if you have many plants or if you have fish such as small American cichlids or Angel fish that do not like very strong water currents.
With the Aquael Ultramax filter you only have to keep one thing in mind: Don't forget to strictly follow the advice in the instruction manual before opening the pre-filter cover, if you do it correctly as Aquael advises everything will be fine, if you don't read the manual and don't If you open the pre-filter cover correctly, then when you open that cover some water will always fall out.
I insist, the filter has absolutely no problem, simply to open the prefilter you must follow a few simple steps, and you will enjoy an absolutely great filter.
@@mansikapur3013 As an example, I will tell you that the two largest aquariums are Malawi Biotope Aquariums, that is, without plants and with large African cichlid fish that need absolutely implacable water. I am currently using biological material in the filters simply twice (approximately) the amount recommended by Sera Siporax or Seachem Matrix.
For example, 1 liter of Sera Siporax is enough for a 200 liter aquarium, so in my 450 liter aquariums I use a maximum of 4 liters of Sera Siporax Professional 15mm or in the case of Seachem Matrix, I calculate it at a rate of 500 ml of Seachem. Matrix is 200 liters, so at most I only add 2 liters of Seachem Matrix.
To this I only add the chemical filtration that is the Seachen Purigen, which I change every 5 or 6 months. And a very good mechanical filtration with good 35ppi, 45ppi sponges and filter thread.
With this I have enough to have impeccable water parameters and 0 problems.
In 450l aquariums without plants and with large African cichlids, change the water weekly by 50/60%.
In 240 liter tropical aquariums with plants, 25/30% water change every 2 weeks.
If you start your aquariums well, use good maintenance products, and do things well... nothing justifies loading your filters with kilos and kilos of supposedly Premium materials... (very "supposedly"...)
Also, since by not unnecessarily filling the filters with material that they do not need, you have a good space to place a good mechanical filtration (which also has a biological function of course), and chemical filtration, so the water in my aquariums is not only healthy but it is also always very crystalline.
I hope I have helped you, I don't know if you can send messages between using TH-cam, if so, don't hesitate to write to me if you have any more questions.
Greetings from Germany
@@mansikapur3013 sorry... I forgot this... Since I bought my first Juwel aquarium, all the ones I have bought later if there was a version with the same liter capacity in the Juwel brand, then I always bought the Juwel
As for external filters, for me the 2 best filters for aquariums up to 330 liters (after having tested practically all external filters) are without a doubt:
- Oase Biomaster Thermo 250 / 350 / 600.
- Aquael Ultramax 1000 / 1500 /2000
They are the quietest, with real and innovative solutions and very efficient.
In both filters you can clean the pre-filter weekly in just 3 or 4 minutes without having to open the entire filter, so you very easily extend the maintenance periods a lot and save yourself from having to carry the external filter from here to there every time. 1 or 2 months. Also note that both filters are extremely reliable.
The Oase BioMaster Thermo is much more expensive, it has the heater included, it is a very good quality product and from a great brand with a lot of prestige.
Aquael is surprisingly quiet, the quietest of all the external filters by far, very well made, good materials, very good price, very good capacity. It does not have built-in heating, nor is there currently a version of this filter with heating. But if that is not a problem for you, I will tell you that when I buy external filters, if I need them to be heated, my first option is always the Oase BioMasterThermo. And when I don't need or don't care that the filter has built-in heating, my first option always and without hesitation is the Aquael Ultramax ahead of any other brand, whatever it may be, including those Chinese filters that are so highly recommended here on this channel. .. and that so many times I have seen it break down quickly and flood living rooms in the house of some reckless friend who believed the "Good, pretty and cheap" story.
The aquael is super quiet and very efficient in any of its versions (1000, 1500, 2000). The 1500 lph version is enough for a 240 liter aquarium.
If you opt for the 2000lph version you may have to reduce the flow power a little if you have many plants or if you have fish such as small American cichlids or Angel fish that do not like very strong water currents.
With the Aquael Ultramax filter you only have to keep one thing in mind: Don't forget to strictly follow the advice in the instruction manual before opening the pre-filter cover, if you do it correctly as Aquael advises everything will be fine, if you don't read the manual and don't If you open the pre-filter cover correctly, then when you open that cover some water will always fall out.
I insist, the filter has absolutely no problem, simply to open the prefilter you must follow a few simple steps, and you will enjoy an absolutely great filter.
How would you do the smallest ECCO ehiem
I have the smallest ECCO 130 but bought the large "bucket" & 2 more media trays as spares. It all fits together perfectly so I have the slow flow rate of the 130 pump head with the 3 filter trays of the 300. Been running for 4 years & zero nitate. Happy days!
chris oldale thanks
Have you any videos out or coming on the fluval fx range? Would that be best done in a similar fashion to the eheim?
flow goes from top down in the FX series. So, keep the white foams in place that circle the trays as they come from the factory.
Then, in top tray put the coarse black foam, bumpy side up. Under it I bought the blue fine pads, and put one under the mentioned black foam. Everything under that...........biohome ultimate.
Pondguru's method isn't that complicated. Coarse foam, to finer foam..........finished with media.
Sahadi420 thanks, just wasnt sure which way it flowed, ive done all my other filters, just that one with the foams outside confused me.
Aquatics And furries rule of thumb.....the flow goes toward the pump.
In the 406 series the pump is on the top, and in the FX series the pump is at the bottom
Sahadi420 thanks for that, makes sense
i was thinking about buying this filter for my turtles but now i'm worried because of all the extra stuff needed o.O
Do you have a shop in the UK
Not an aquarium shop any more as I closed it a few years ago and now work from home but if you want media or foams and are local you're more than welcome to collect. I live near Ebchester DH8 9JA
Eheim should hire you as Product Manager
How many kg biohome? Thank you
That would be great to know...
? Good? ecco pro vs classic?
Ecco pro every time as it has proper trays - I'm not a fan of the classic range.
Even more and more orange poop, In each of your videos 😁 Do you have to have nightmares about them?😂
another great video my man! keep on pimpin'
Up in smoke Cheech and Chong lol
I love these vids
Ehime classics are the best.
The rest are bad copy of the near perfectly made filter.
And how many other filters allow you to be able to rebuild it so easily.
Big green classics are the best when it comes to aquarium filters.
Even though they don't come with trays to separate media? I'm trying to work out what filter to buy.. Thanks!
I would like to see you pimp out a Marineland Emperor 400.
they should really hire this guy before they ship there products :)
PondGuru makes way too much sense to be hired by bottom line obsessed businesses who purposely hinder their filters to keep users forever buying their specific replacement media. He'd be a threat to their "addiction based" business models. At least we still have choices on what can go into our filters except the quirky Fluval G3 & G6 models.
that sounds about right
There's only so many filters you're gonna sell each year so their business would be a fraction of what it is without the people who repeat buy the foam pads. Ultimately filters might be even more expensive if it weren't for that fact.
Ah, the cause foam is already at the top, so in the first tray, no need to stuff.
Hello Richard, I have the Ehime aquaball 180. I don't think it's a good enough filtration . If you can pimp it and make it better.
I'm a big fan of your channel on TH-cam and always watching your videos. You always inspired me with your ideas. . I tried to reach you on the phone number in the description. I don’t know if you get the message on WhatsApp. Thanks
wassolol the System of the filter does not allow to use it much different. Better would be the Eheim Biopower. But still too small.
If you phoned there is no record of it but I hardly ever check watsap or texts if you were sending a message.
Either a phone call or email is best as I'm at a computer most of the day (for emails) and have all notifications turned off on the phone except phone calls.
The aquaball unfortunately uses foams and draws water in through all the compartments at the same time so I'm at a loss as to how that would / could be improved as it's essentially a pump driven sponge filter.
Pondguru that's it. You can't change the way, that filter works.
Is it just me or does it look like this eheim filter is wearing a pair of headphones? Lol
Yes, 100% - that was my first thought too.