Replace Windows with Sheet Metal | Skoolie Conversion | Adam & Steph
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video we show you how we installed sheet metal to delete our bus windows in our skoolie conversion. We hope this helps you! If you have any questions we will answer in the comments below! Thanks for watching!
How To Install RV Windows:
• How To Install RV Wind...
Rivets:
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Q...
www.amazon.ca/SNUG-Fasteners-...
Caulking:
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00O...
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@adam.and.steph
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You’re the only one I’ve seen that’s done this . Everyone else acts like they want all those windows . I don’t so really glad you posted this . It looks great .
I agree. Just makes it even harder to heat and cool. Not to mention the eyesore all those windows create.
@@allenh7835 i like natural light and i need fresh air - i can't handle being packed in like a sardine in a can lol
I should add that I love that you were very methodical in walking through how you did things. That was excellent! After watching some of your videos, I would say that I think you will regret not raising the roof. Once you add some insulation, you are likely going to find you wish you had that extra space.
We opted not to do a roof raise because we will get away with just enough headroom in the centre of our bus. The only area where we will need to stand on the side is in our bathroom, which we built up a skylight for more headroom there! That’s in our latest video we posted last week! :) We wanted to spend out time and money on a lot of other things and didn’t think an extra 6” of headroom was worth it for us because we are able to stand straight in the bus no problem already :)
@@AdamandAtlas - LOL! I understand, BUT those are famous last words! I'm following you guys now, so I want you to remember this comment and give us an update AFTER your bus is done and you have lived with it for a while. You remind me of this other couple who did a bus and didn't raise the roof. Take a look at their video on the top 5 things they wished they changed -- th-cam.com/video/1Hz-oDAUxQg/w-d-xo.html. You may not regret that decision, but time will tell you what works and what doesn't. I love the way you guys are doing your videos. Make sure you sign up for Patreon. As you make progress on your build, and more people follow you, you can release special little snippets in your Patreon to drive interaction and make money from people who want to support you. I'm excited for you both and I wish you the very best!
Its good to see you getting rid of all those drafty inefficient bus windows and replacing them with nice energy efficient windows where you want them. I dont understand why all the people building skoolies dont do this, it would be much better for heating and cooling. Fine job
Thank you so much! That was exactly our thought process
@@AdamandAtlas Your welcome, the people not replacing those windows never had to ride a school bus in the winter. Cold as sh#t, windows all iced up. ; ) I subbed.
@@farmtruck9885 hahahah yes the childhood memories of getting rained on or getting cold wind on ur face from the windows that are jammed and can’t close lol 😅 thanks for joining the fam!
Fantastic job! Love your can-do approach!
Your bus is so so so cool! It’s hard finding that line between having to base your design around the windows and keeping as many as possible for great light and views. Can’t wait to see you guys on the road!!
THANKS FOR YOUR QUICK REPLY. GREAT INFORMATION LEARNED SO MUCH HERE FROM TENNESSEE
I'm in the process of buying my bus. Your info was super helpful, especially the tip of removing "every other rivet." Thanks!
I’m glad you found it helpful! Enjoy your bus build! It’s very exciting :)
What a great video! Subscribed! I wish you guys the absolute best! Very informative. Glad to see you guys working together to build your future! Love that!
Thank you!
Love the way you do your teaching.
Thank you!
Appreciate the details you include. Thanks again!
Nice. It looks very clean and professional
Great video showing good way of doing sheet metal. 👏
New subscriber! Thanks for the videos. Love watching skoolie builds.
Thank you so much! Glad you’re enjoying our videos
Awesome video guys, you did an amazing job explaining everything! 😊
Thank you!!
Very entertaining. I look forward to what you to will do with the bus.
This was really good information on the riveting. I haven’t seen much of this for the builds so this riveting skinning for idiots 101 is perfect😂Thanks for the content guys much appreciated
Just found your channel guy's so gonna tag along. Sheet metal looks really good.
Thanks so much! Join the party :)
Clean job. Definitely the first to do this
Cant wait to see it guys happy for you two
Thank you so much!!
You guys are better that real PRO !
Excellent tips, thank you :).
Super helpful!
New Drinking Game:
Take a shot every time one of you says rivet or sheet metal.
LOL I wanna see u play
@@AdamandAtlas I’ll be drunk two minutes in
@@bridgetwiens1324 if u drink wine like at the cottage 😂
Awesome video. I done fudging with the original windows... I was gonna just go with them but have recently decided to go rv windows instead this video was incredibly helpful in understanding what happens before actually installing the windows 👍🏾
Glad it could help! :)
@@AdamandAtlas would 20ga work instead of 16ga.. 16 is pretty expensive. (I'm cheap)
Great video, very informative
Thanks, I appreciated this 🙂
Awesome channel, about to start mine, thanks for documenting everything!
Thanks for watching! Good luck with ur build!
@@AdamandAtlas thank you! Quick question for y’all, did you run into any concerns over the weight distribution on the axels? I’ve got an 80gal freshwater tank, and (10) AGM batteries, all going in the very far rear of the bus. All of that nonsense (and tools/other stuff) is like 3,000lbs all sitting at the very rear. I’m wondering if I need to change the floor plan for that weight distribution
@@bmxican1023 depends how much weight you’re putting in the front. The engine in the front counters most of the weight, but 3000 pounds is quite a bit to have in the back.
@@AdamandAtlas yea exactly, and I’m looking at the 40’ Thomas ones so that can be pretty far away from that rear axel. Have you guys happened to take your bus to a certified CAT scale?
@@bmxican1023 no we haven’t!
This Video, Will Be So Helpful.
Now To Get My Bus 🚌
Glad we could help!
Very nice. Thank for this it was very informative.
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!
Nice job guys.
YES IT DOES LOOK PRETTY GOOD!🙂
Just subscribed... Looks great
Thank you so much! Happy you joined the fam!
I'm interested to know how much difference removing the windows made with the heat and cold. And how did you finish it inside? I'll just have to watch more videos to see. I think I'm about a month away from moving into a skoolie that's already started and cheap enough. Only $4000, but it needs lots of work. It's good enough to live in now I think. So all these skoolie videos are really helpful. If I don't get that specific one I'll find another.
Looking good !!
Thank you!
Nice job . One thing you might consider is a roof raise. Look how little heads pace you have after insulation, subfloor and roof . You will be hitting your head on everything. 18 inch is standard. Good luck guys. I start my conversion in 6 months.
Hi!! First of all, you guys did a great Job!!! We bought a school bus, and we want to convert it, my question is, we need to ask a permission to remove the window and replace them with sheet metal, like you did?? Thanks in advance 🙏🏻
I've always wondered how rivets were installed. Def need that gun
I like that you've entirely covered one side. That way you can decide how much sun you want to take in.
We covered both sides completely and after painting the bus we are going to install rv windows where we want!
@@AdamandAtlas Looks awesome! Was going to ask this question, but you just answered it! I was thinking of doing something similar. Thanks for the info!
Great video.
Thank you!
Do you have a price breakdown of everything?
Good safety squint
Suction cup dent pullers are cheap they can be found at places like Autozone then you can push the sheet metal into place
We thought about that but it wasn’t a matter of lifting the sheet metal into place, it needed to be forcefully hammered in between the ribs and the drip rail up top. Its a very tight area that obviously isn’t designed to have sheet metal wedged into.
Awesome content! This is exactly what I was looking for. Looking forward to your window install! Question, is there any concern of rusting for the metal at the bottom facing the bumper bar which will be unable to be painted?
Thank you so much!!! The sheet metal we used is galvanized, so it’s got a coating that prevents it from rusting! Hopefully that should do the job.
Would suction cup grips, like those used in working with plate glass, work for moving the sheet into place
We thought of that while struggling but didn’t have access to such suction-cups. Hopefully someone who does have access to them can chime in
Great job. Best video I’ve seen on window deletes. Where did you buy your sheet metal?
Thank you very much! We got it from a local sheet metal place in Sudbury called Taylor sheet metal!
This is exactly what I did to my bus too. I used the same 16 gauge metal and rivets. It really tightened up the bus. It was removing all the rivets that made me cuss haha
Preparing the area is always the worst part lol. Taking off the old window sealant was the biggest nightmare for us!
@@AdamandAtlas you had so much more window adhesive than I did. Now that makes me worry about my bus!?!? Haha. I removed all the windows and actually put in vinyl house windows. Hopefully it will help with keeping the warmth in the bus in the winter
@@braun3659 yeah anything dual pane will help with insulation for sure! What kind of bus do you have?
@@AdamandAtlas I have a 98 Blue Bird TC1000. It’s a cool mid-size flat nose bus. I was blessed with the “million mile engine” and Allison transmission.
@@braun3659 amazing! Ours has the same engine and transmission. Ours is a 2005 international! Maybe because ours is a bit newer that’s why it has more window sealant still? Who knows
Can you link to the riveter you used? Thanks. Love the video. I can't wait to do this myself.
www.princessauto.com/en/3-16-in-air-riveter/product/PA0008843708. That is the unit we used. Any nematic riveter that accepts 3/16 rivets will do the trick tho! Glad you are finding the video useful!
I am concerned about striking two hammers together without any eye protection! Maybe use a brass hammer instead of the claw hammer?
Good info but guys im lost how do you get the metal past the rivet line on top with the 1/2 the rivets still installed.
If you look closely at the original rivets (half the ones we didn’t take out) they’re just buck rivets and they don’t stick out much at all. Probably only 1/8”.. so we were able to sneak the sheet metal in past the rivet line to install every other rivet with a new one! With sealant and it being shingled under the drip rail, there’s absolutely no leaking at all. Hope that was helpful!!
What did you guys use for caulking? I saw the link in the description, it looked like a DAP product in the video
Yes we used both. Sikaflex is more expensive but one we would recommend more. The DAP product works great for this job, but I think we will use sikaflex for when we install the windows.
Looks amazing. I failed on my first attempt. What thickness of metal are you using? Thanks x
Keep trying! We used 1/16inch (16guage) sheetmetal.
Looks nice and clean. Did you guys ever seal it at all from the outside? If not have you experienced any leaks? Thanks!
We used a bit of polyurethane sealant on the seams just for aesthetics. we did find that the rivets were leaking a little bit so we put polyurethane sealant in a syringe and filled all the rivet holes just to be safe.
How far down does the sheet metal go. Our windows are 2 feet long so were thinking of getting 3 feet to accomadate 6 inches on top & six in the bottom. Would that be enough to push through?
The sheet metal drops down in behind the bumper bar maybe 3 inches. Your sheet metal can only be the amount it can drop down bigger than the open gap. 6 inches bigger on top ajd bottom would never fit. You only need enough overlap to securely rivet the metal in on the top and bottom.
If you only took out every other rivet along the top, how did you get the sheet metal all the way up?
The rivets on that top row only hold the folded over metal that make the “rain gutter” together. It does not a-fix the metal to the framing in any way.
Won't suction cups help lift the metal by gripping ?
No because it’s not a matter of lifting, it needs to be forcefully wedged between the ribs and the drip rail.
How long did it take you guys to just reskin/ & rivet the sheet metal onto the bus?
It took maybe 8 hours per side. The biggest slow down was getting the sheetmetal up into position.
Is there any concern that water will follow the center pin hole back inside?
The rivets we used breaks the centre pin, leaving some of it inside the rivet. Therefore the rivets don’t have a hole and are water tight!
What were your sheet metal measurements?
We aren’t sure anymore.. it will differ with every bus though. When we measured, we just measured from each seam line that’s already existing on the bus, so our sheet metal would match. Just add a few inches (~5”) for overlap to rivet the two together. For the height, just measure the window opening, adding a few inches on top to go under the drip rail, and a few inches on the bottom to go under the bumper bar! Hope that helps :)
This method leaves clean lines. And the larger panels should help with rigidity. We would like to use this method.( we're not removing the metal walls.) My question is, Will we have to remove the walls in order to attach the Rivets in the Lower part of sheet metal?
Do you mean the metal walls below the windows in the interior? No you don’t have to remove them! We just did because we want to use closed cell spray insulation everywhere we can!
th-cam.com/video/ywVb-FN6K0s/w-d-xo.html
In this video you’ll see more about the process!
@@AdamandAtlas Thank you for your response. Yes, I meant interior lower wall. Sorry, my question wasn't more precise.
@@rhondawalker6732 no problem! I figured out what you meant :)
Nice work!
Genuinely not trying to be a troll, but NEVER strike two hammer heads together - the hammer faces are hardened and will chip sending shrapnel - I've literally had this happen. Restated, do you spell "schoolie" with one eye or two? 😄
You can take the ball peen hammer that you're going to use as a striking tool and heat the face red hot with a torch and then bury it in vermiculite to allow it to cool very slowly - this will anneal it and make it soft enough to strike. You might lose the hammer handle in the process, but much better than losing an eye. Related, you might think about safety glasses.
You were committing on the black rails on outside of bus, trivia question, do you know what the 3 rails signify as a school bus..
Yes we’re keeping the bumper bars and they signify the floor, the bottom of the seat, and the tops! :)
It been 3 years, is there any rust or leakage since you've built this?
No rust and not a single drop!
What gage sheet metal?
16 gauge
I don’t understand why you remove only every other rivet. Doesn’t that prevent the metal from going all the way up?
Nope! The buck rivets are pretty low profile on the back side. With sealant and everything, it worked perfectly. We bought stainless steel rivets which already costed us close to $300.. and we only did half the rivets on the top. It would have costed us a lot more if we replaced every single rivet. We are happy we only did every other one. No problems at all.
How much did the sheet metal cost
For us, $100 for a 4x8 sheet of 16 gauge galvanized sheet metal
What are the dimensions of the sheet metal? Width and Height? Also gauge and type of metal? Also you should have used a metal squeegee to lift the metal.
We used 16 gauge galvanized steel. Not sure on the dimensions. Its been a long time since we did this.
@@AdamandAtlas Okay Thanks
The only comment I have is ya'll keep saying you are placing the metal behind the bumper bar (rub rail) but you seem to be placing it behind the first layer of metal to which the "bumper bar" is attached. Am I incorrect? Otherwise this is a great video. this is the stage in which i am at in my schoolie build.
Nope, what we said is correct! If you watch the part where Cole is using a pry bar to separate the metal, you can see we are making room between the rub rail and the first layer of sheet metal to stick the new piece in between!
drink every time they say "so"
surprised that you didn't leave any windows, e.g. above the wheel barrels. It's gonna be pretty dark in there. Also I don't really understand the part where you left in every other rivet: don't the remaining rivets prevent you from pushing up the sheet metal? So when you put in new rivets, they won't even pierce the new sheet metal? Maybe the new rivets just squish the metal in there. Or maybe it'S just my lack of imagination of the process lol
The plan is to install RV windows where we want! We’ll have a nice big one in the livingroom, and two by the kitchen and one in the living room. Then the bathroom will have a big skylight! There will be a ton of light in our bus when we are done :)
@@AdamandAtlas now it makes sense :)
@@hackisack to answer the rest of your comment, it is sort of hard to imagine and hard to explain. The rivets at the top only attach the drip rail to the roofing sheet metal. So when we put the new sheet metal in, the new rivets attach the new sheet metal to the drip rail and roof and the existing rivets we left only hold the drip rail and roof. So basically imagine three layers of something and every other rivet (the existing ones) only join two layers and the other rivets (new ones) join three layers together. Hope this helps!
*rub rail*
Why would you want no windows? Everyone makes these bus renovations so complicated.
It’s pretty simple actually! We removed all the original windows because they’re incredibly drafty and extremely leaky.. so many people have problems with them when they keep them. Since this video we have installed 5 insulated and tinted RV windows! Check out that video here!
th-cam.com/video/Waon7LEMt9g/w-d-xo.html
It increases surface area for insulation and increases customization.. we didn’t want to have to build walls and closets over some windows. Ultimately we want our bus to be a four seasons bus, and removing the stock windows allowed us to be better insulated!
id pay for this help
how to completely ruin the astetics of owning a school bus ... By Adam and Steph.
The beauty of building a Skoolie is that you can change anything to suit your needs and wants! We decided to get rid of all the terribly drafty and poorly insulated original windows, and replace them with brand new rv windows in areas where we want! So we sheet metalled up the rest! It may not be for everyone but there are lots of people in the Skoolie community that do this!
Steph are you a Single Girl ?