I wish I saw this video before I purchased mine. I was looking for much finer lines. I tried to save some $$ and liked the trigger. Now after hours of trying everything to get finer detail, I ponied up for the top of the line with MAC valve. Great video you’re exactly right.
The light coverage in the middle indicates paint is either too thin or pressure too high. With a fan cap thickness and pressure is more critical than with a round spray and takes a little patience and practice to get right.
Excellent review of an interesting and unique airbrush! I purchased the NEO version of this for a classic car collector in my family and he loves it. The trigger design is much easier for him to use compared to a normal airbrush. He has done several touch-up jobs on his cars and they look terrific. What also looks terrific is that next landscape painting you're working on! I can hardly wait to see how you go about doing those mountains. They've been a real challenge for me but it looks like you've discovered the secret to landscape realism. I'm so looking forward to next week to find out how you did it. Your channel just gets better and better man!
Thanks so much!! I can def see this type of trigger design being useful for some like your family member. The Neo version looks way more comfortable than the HP-TH. I'm such a fan of the Neo line. Great choice!
Hello, I really hope you see this message and help me. I have just had two GSI PS290's through my hands in the last few days and both have a bad fan spray pattern. They both give a strong top and bottom line with very little paint in the middle, sprayed at 20 & 30 psi. Is this normal for the PS290? Do you think the Iwata Hi-Line HP-TH would give a better fan pattern? I sprayed lacquer on furniture with a fan gun for many years, so know what a fan should look like. Hoping you can help.
Yep, I get that too on the hp-th! It sprays a decent fan pattern but nothing special. One thing is to make sure that the fan nozzle is very very clean. Those small holes easily clog up on these types of airbrushes. In my experience if you want a true accurate fan pattern, go with a real spray gun like an hvlp, lvlp, or a mini one. These airbrush fan caps are alright but nowhere near as clean or as accurate as a true hvlp/lvlp. I stopped using the fan cap on this hp-th and only use the round cap these days. Hope this helps!
I use my (well creos ps-290 but same brush without mac valve) for candies and sealers alot. One tip, if you adjust the fan cap so that the prongs are not 100% in level and the holes are slightly offset to other it wont leave center part lighter and atomizes well
Thanks, I have never seen such evidence based reviews as the ones you make. All the demos are relevant and you include useful metrics, very rare. I have the Creos PS290 and I use it for models. It is really great for spraying clears because I can cover a large area and keep it wet for gloss. Also great for primers, I mainly build big models, couldn't live without it, a real problem solver f for the right use cases. Is there Creos PS-275 review in the future? Would really like a trigger .3 or .2 airbrush, but unsure because I haven't seen any useful reviews
Thanks! I'd like to eventually review every airbrush out there but the ones with the handle triggers are a long long way away. I love them, but they arent very useful for what i do.
@@theartworkshop I can see how they would be last to get reviewed, I do model painting, so totally different surface and paint types. I personally use the back stop quite a bit, I think the time spent painting models is a lot less than making paintings. But I must admit your work has gotten me curious. Is it possible to airbrush water colours, like the small "bricks" you get in a kit for brushing?
It would be great to see a comparison between this Iwata TH vs the Creos ps290. The looks so similar and have almost identical specs which kinda seems like the parts are interchangeable between them.
I'm having some issues with my current setup applying primer to figures and models. With my Badger 100, 0.7 nozzle i end up with a dusty finish sometimes. I know that possibly i'm doing it wrong, not doing it close enough, hot enviroment and so on but i watched some videos about this airbrush and they recommend it for that use since the spray pattern is in between of a classic airbrush and a spraygun. A big pattern basically. Do you agree? Thanks for the video.
a few things can give you dusty/grainy finish. It could be a paint not made for airbrushing, where the pigments aren't ground small enough. It could also be that it isn't diluted enough or it could be that your psi is too low. Try diluting with more reducer/distilled water and try spraying at around 25psi. Best of luck!
@@theartworkshop Thank you. I'm pretty sure that my AB is the problem since when i prime small models, scale 1/12 for example it just works, but now i'm painting 1/4 scale figures and i have this dusty finish sometimes. My paint is well thinned, milk texture, and everytime i use 25-20 psi. Its possible too that i'm spraying from far away to cover a bigger area (since the figure is bigger) and the paint just hits the model dry, that's why i think an AB between a spray gun and a regular AB should work. The channel scale model workshop explained the same exact thing that's happening to me and pointed this AB as a 'solution', that's why i ended up in your videos 👌
Iwata does sell a handle for this airbrush, but it needs to be ordered separately. This is a strange decision from Iwata, given the airbrush's price point. I'm not sure if there are serious users of this gun that would use it as it comes out of the box for serious work. That sounds super annoying!
I wish I saw this video before I purchased mine. I was looking for much finer lines. I tried to save some $$ and liked the trigger. Now after hours of trying everything to get finer detail, I ponied up for the top of the line with MAC valve. Great video you’re exactly right.
The light coverage in the middle indicates paint is either too thin or pressure too high. With a fan cap thickness and pressure is more critical than with a round spray and takes a little patience and practice to get right.
Excellent review of an interesting and unique airbrush! I purchased the NEO version of this for a classic car collector in my family and he loves it. The trigger design is much easier for him to use compared to a normal airbrush. He has done several touch-up jobs on his cars and they look terrific. What also looks terrific is that next landscape painting you're working on! I can hardly wait to see how you go about doing those mountains. They've been a real challenge for me but it looks like you've discovered the secret to landscape realism. I'm so looking forward to next week to find out how you did it. Your channel just gets better and better man!
Thanks so much!! I can def see this type of trigger design being useful for some like your family member. The Neo version looks way more comfortable than the HP-TH. I'm such a fan of the Neo line. Great choice!
Hello, I really hope you see this message and help me. I have just had two GSI PS290's through my hands in the last few days and both have a bad fan spray pattern. They both give a strong top and bottom line with very little paint in the middle, sprayed at 20 & 30 psi. Is this normal for the PS290? Do you think the Iwata Hi-Line HP-TH would give a better fan pattern? I sprayed lacquer on furniture with a fan gun for many years, so know what a fan should look like. Hoping you can help.
Yep, I get that too on the hp-th! It sprays a decent fan pattern but nothing special. One thing is to make sure that the fan nozzle is very very clean. Those small holes easily clog up on these types of airbrushes. In my experience if you want a true accurate fan pattern, go with a real spray gun like an hvlp, lvlp, or a mini one. These airbrush fan caps are alright but nowhere near as clean or as accurate as a true hvlp/lvlp. I stopped using the fan cap on this hp-th and only use the round cap these days. Hope this helps!
@@theartworkshop Thank you very much, your reply has helped me a great deal 🥰 Again, thank you ☺
I use my (well creos ps-290 but same brush without mac valve) for candies and sealers alot. One tip, if you adjust the fan cap so that the prongs are not 100% in level and the holes are slightly offset to other it wont leave center part lighter and atomizes well
Thanks for the tip. I will definitely remember that when the time comes.
That's a good tip because the gap of missing paint in the spray pattern is not good at all.
Thanks, I have never seen such evidence based reviews as the ones you make.
All the demos are relevant and you include useful metrics, very rare.
I have the Creos PS290 and I use it for models. It is really great for spraying clears because I can cover a large area and keep it wet for gloss.
Also great for primers, I mainly build big models, couldn't live without it, a real problem solver f for the right use cases.
Is there Creos PS-275 review in the future? Would really like a trigger .3 or .2 airbrush, but unsure because I haven't seen any useful reviews
Thanks! I'd like to eventually review every airbrush out there but the ones with the handle triggers are a long long way away. I love them, but they arent very useful for what i do.
@@theartworkshop I can see how they would be last to get reviewed, I do model painting, so totally different surface and paint types. I personally use the back stop quite a bit, I think the time spent painting models is a lot less than making paintings. But I must admit your work has gotten me curious. Is it possible to airbrush water colours, like the small "bricks" you get in a kit for brushing?
can I use this cap setup on the TRN1 ? I have upgraded it to .5 needle and cap and parts.. and would like a more fan pattern for my use...
It would be great to see a comparison between this Iwata TH vs the Creos ps290. The looks so similar and have almost identical specs which kinda seems like the parts are interchangeable between them.
i'll bet they are very similar. I'll have to pick up that creos one day to check out
I'm having some issues with my current setup applying primer to figures and models. With my Badger 100, 0.7 nozzle i end up with a dusty finish sometimes. I know that possibly i'm doing it wrong, not doing it close enough, hot enviroment and so on but i watched some videos about this airbrush and they recommend it for that use since the spray pattern is in between of a classic airbrush and a spraygun. A big pattern basically. Do you agree? Thanks for the video.
a few things can give you dusty/grainy finish. It could be a paint not made for airbrushing, where the pigments aren't ground small enough. It could also be that it isn't diluted enough or it could be that your psi is too low. Try diluting with more reducer/distilled water and try spraying at around 25psi. Best of luck!
@@theartworkshop Thank you. I'm pretty sure that my AB is the problem since when i prime small models, scale 1/12 for example it just works, but now i'm painting 1/4 scale figures and i have this dusty finish sometimes. My paint is well thinned, milk texture, and everytime i use 25-20 psi. Its possible too that i'm spraying from far away to cover a bigger area (since the figure is bigger) and the paint just hits the model dry, that's why i think an AB between a spray gun and a regular AB should work.
The channel scale model workshop explained the same exact thing that's happening to me and pointed this AB as a 'solution', that's why i ended up in your videos 👌
I’d like to see iwata hp c plus and badger renegrade krome review.
noted. I will eventually try to get to every airbrush, but it will take some time.
Iwata does sell a handle for this airbrush, but it needs to be ordered separately. This is a strange decision from Iwata, given the airbrush's price point. I'm not sure if there are serious users of this gun that would use it as it comes out of the box for serious work. That sounds super annoying!
GSI -Creos is similar.:)