Mercedes W164 W251 Brake Light Wiring Repair Kit A1648260007 ML320 ML350 R320 R350
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- How I made my own wiring repair kit for the W164 ML320CDI.
A DIY procedure where Mercedes Part # A1648260007 has been recommended to fix the failing upper brake light bulb.
For the 2008 W164 ML320CDI the upper brake light wire is the 4th wire from the bottom of the connector. The kit I made taps that wire. Confirm with a multi meter or test light for your vehicle.
Note the centre contact in the bulb holder is the positive.
Song: Erik Lund - Tokyo Sunset (Vlog No Copyright Music)
Music promoted by Vlog No Copyright Music.
Video Link: • Video
Song: Simon Moore - Summer Vibes (VLOG MUSIC - No Copyright)
Music provided by VLOG MUSIC - No Copyright.
Video Link: • Simon Moore - Summer V...
Artist: Adrian van Sin
Song: The Beach
Download/Stream: audiograb.com/...
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W1D5 | Fall | เก็บแต้มของจริง คือวันนี้](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EciIAlCXg5k/mqdefault.jpg)
Cheers Scott another happy ML 350 driver who you have saved a small fortune not having to take into M.B. Cheers.
Thanks Scott. I was wondering why I kept on blowing these bulbs and I’ve had these Damn error codes for the past couple years. Gonna get some wire and get my soldering iron out tomorrow and give this a go. Thanks
Good luck and report back as to how it went.
Scotty you are a bloody champ. Second time I’ve used one of your hacks on my ML and both have worked a treat. Keep up the good work. Cheers
Thanks Michael.
Interesting - you seem to have all the same problems as my ML. The lens housing on mine melted - probably because they stuck a whopping 21W bulb in there. You would have thought they would have known about LEDs by 2007. BTW the incandescent compatible LEDs I tried don't seem to work - maybe it has to do with the SAM's logic. Anyway this allowed water in that took out the SAM unit. I was fortunate that I found a cheap compatible unit on line - apparently it is hit or miss whether they have the right code in them. Mercedes apparently don't know about drip loops but they were concerned about heat so they put ventilation holes in the SAM box to allow water in. I did a test and the box makes no appreciable heat so I waterproofed it and remounted the box so that there are drip loops.
The same scenario is true for the boot lid pump/motor. They mount it at the bottom of the trunk and water craps out the contacts.
Again great content and thank you sir...
Thanks Francis ... the ML's appear to have some common problems that can be very annoying. These Mercedes are not the most reliable vehicles out there.
@@ScottElliott152
So far at 260K:
2 alternators - they were not rebuildable and are expensive - there may be rebuild kits now. Ridiculously weedy slip rings and directly under the oil fill with no guard which may have contributed to their early demise..
Oil cooler seals - I removed the terrible plastic 'swirl vanes' at the same time. It hasn't seemed to hurt anything
Turbo actuator - same issue as yours. I micro welded rather than soldered.
Glow plug module - I took it apart and some of the surface mount was not even soldered! How can you pot electronics without checking that the components are physically secured?
Rubber brake lines rotted out - don't know what synthetic compound they use but two of the front lines disintegrated. Interestingly not at the logical stress points and thankfully while the car was parked!
You are a man after my own heart - I used to race RDs and TZ750s.
Scott - 2010 ML350 heated drivers seat. Without spending at least $1k US, can the heat strips be repaired? Get a wire burning smell when activating the seat heat.
I'm not familiar with the heated seats. I would take a guess that the heating element can be removed. th-cam.com/video/desTz_rzU5c/w-d-xo.html
If it was me I'd take the seat out and investigate. If it can't be repaired I'd buy a non Mercedes part or a used part from a breaking yard.
www.aliexpress.com/item/32957776115.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.17a16408DWYSXR&algo_pvid=f7a6fba2-f36e-4a2a-8c8f-083299e7cd81&algo_expid=f7a6fba2-f36e-4a2a-8c8f-083299e7cd81-27&btsid=d297368a-8e07-4c5d-9440-239c62786e7a&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_10,searchweb201603_53
Lost me at 02:25
Haha ... maybe brush up on those handy basic electrical formulae!
Hey Scott,
Are you on facebook or twitter mate ?
I've an issuse with my command screen, same flip up one that you have on your videos, 2010 c-class w204 1.8.
Flips up n flips down again, just wanted to show you a video of it to see if you have ever seen anything like it before.
Thanks
Hi Darren ... no I avoid FB, Twitter etc.
I've seen that problem before with other viewers. The COMAND is old outdated technology so don't waste your time with it. Replacing components is expensive. You're far better off to replace it with an android touchscreen unit that the enterprising Chinese have designed for us. All the feedback is that they're great. Just plug and play and easy to install. I'm still running 2010 maps because I refuse to be gouged $700 for a map update. The replacement android units are cheaper and you can download all the apps you need. Something like this is what I'm considering: www.aliexpress.com/item/32990856185.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1e6142e2jO6nAf&algo_pvid=490b7a0a-8483-4700-ab47-0eadff832735&algo_expid=490b7a0a-8483-4700-ab47-0eadff832735-0&btsid=60ac3f56-24bd-4dc0-a91b-43bd41777907&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_10,searchweb201603_53
@@ScottElliott152 Hi Scott thanks for your reply buddy, thing is that sometimes it works 100%, star diagnosis said "button jammed" so i replaced the buttons on the top cover and beneath the display,made no difference to be honest.
When it stays open the screen and all works, mostly though it goes up then back down again though.i took it apart one time and there a small "potentiometer" that i'm presuming works on the gearing for the screen and it seems to me that its faulty as fiddling with i can make the screen do all kinds of stopping positions but its not a serviceable part sadly. Ever seen it during your teardowns ?
Its like its not getting the correct control parameters (voltages) to correctly remain in the open position or something.
Also notice that if i have the heater on then it does the whole flip up flip down thing alot more.....strange
@@darrenflett7373 It's a while since I pulled that thing out so I don't recall the potentiometer. It's possibly the reason the unit is faulty.