I hope Miata owners realize how lucky we are to have Greg Peters. It can’t be easy to sink this much time into videos to share hard earned knowledge. I will like literally every video you ever put out before I even watch it because of how helpful I have found the content over the years.
I've counted you saying the word "valve" 101 times. Take it with a grain of salt tho, there's been about a dozen times where I either blacked out and wondered if you said the word or wondering what number I was at.
As an engineering student I love your palatable example of cons of energy and Newton’s second law and how they apply to our hobby. Can’t wait to see the results of the rebuild!
Hope all is well with you. I read your response in the comments that you're getting a breather and that work is busy. It's good. We all need it on occasions. Just started a FM Turbo install a few days ago on a 2003 Shinsen Version. About half way through it now. Your videos helped a great bit both informationally, and inspirationally! Wanted you to know that YOU did that. Someone completely across the country from you. Thank you for what you do, man!
Just bought a clapped out 92 and I'm building a street monster out of her. Your channel has helped me out so much already and I know it's going to help so much more
Greg have you ever thought about pursuing a career in aviation maintenance? You have a great base knowledge of proper practices and an eye for accuracy. It could be a fulfilling, great paying avenue for your skill set.
i just got this recommended. it's one of the best video regarding head (re)building tutorials. amazing job on explaining imperial and metric(tho you should just keep it metric). this channel should grow a lot, i'm happy to be here before 10k subs.
You are an absolute beast with those explanations!! thank you for that! This video thru me back to university I had to watch it twice to get it :D It would be awesome if you will share what seat pressure is needed for what level of boost, and if there is any way of figureing out what is my current valves seat pressure without measuring each valve assembly
Damn, this video contains so much information. I'm impressed how much research you have done. I finally know why reving higher need so much effort. Also, editing is always a blast in your videos, the mustang clip made me laugh loud!
New to the channel. Used to have a miata, now I'm wrenching on a factory five roadster. just converted to full sequential in megasquirt(full engine harness rebuild), I've got one thing to fix before I can try to start it up.
Hey Greg, awesome video as per usual! One thing I was thinking of as you were talking about the amount of boost pushing on the valve. A lot of technical videos talk about boost being a measurement of resistance in the engines ability to breathe. With that in mind, if you were to optimise and increase the airflow (not pressure) in and out of the engine, then in theory, you could run the same power at lower boost, which means less force acting on the valve train. That being said, I guess you’d need to measure the airflow in and the airflow out of the engine, as optimising one over the other could impact the force on the intake and exhaust springs. Just some food for thought, as I know when I looked at Borg Warner turbos of a similar size, they seemed to require a lot more boost pressure than say a g25-550 to achieve the same power.
Boost pressure is a measure of restriction, correct. Airflow does make power, boost pressure is a result of restriction. So if you were making more power at lower boost you could technically run a softer spring but I would not think about that very much, just use the right springs. You're talking about +/- a few psi, if your springs are at the limit like that you should run something stiffer anyways. As far as the EFR vs G25-550, I can't say I agree at least between similar setups (the G25-550's closest relative is the EFR6758). In Miataland, most of the time you see any car taking 28-32+psi to break into the 400's it's because it's either a 1.6L or it has a more restrictive intake or exhaust system. With proper intake/exhaust manifolds on a 99+ 1.8L either one of those turbos should be in the low 400's in the 21-24psi range. So when you're doing your research just remember that the engine that the turbo is bolted onto might be the reason it takes a lot more boost pressure to make power, and might not be the turbo itself. That being said, the new G series turbos have an incredibly efficient compressor.
This has to be the most complicated and confusing topic you have tried to explain lol Thanks for making this video and explaining in details about head
3 days ago my NA had its 30th birthday, and it has stayed stock apart from a few cosmetic items (wood steering wheel, gear knob, handbrake handle, new wheels, new tan top, KG instrument cluster). Totally reliable!
Greg was so flexing on us with all those big brain calculatory calculations. My brain melted trying to keep up with it. 😅 🤣 Nobody...... Greg..... E=∆•√0.009÷(0.98+∆) +{yXπ} +0.98= you need stiffer springs.
Absolutely invaluable stuff you are doing for us Miata NB nuts. Mines currently in the shop, swapping a 1.6 for a 1.8, reconditioned and reflowed and then supercharged. I am a sparky, so mechanically I have zero idea whats happening therefore I cannot express enough how much im learning about engines here.
Great video Greg, Yes that all makes sense. I expected the new springs to be longer and lighter and I am so pleased to have been right. I think it is an improvement in the spring dynamics?
They came from an experienced head builder who explained to me that seat pressure is far more important than "over the nose" pressure aka pressure at max lift. These will also be available for sale soon so I'll come back to this video and pin a comment with a link when that happens
I’m bout to own a 90 300zx z32 2 + 2 na! Picking up the car Wednesday if everything goes well. Plan on building a custom exhaust, roll cage, and intake cause I own most the things to build that. I own a hydraulic pipe bender, lathe, and milling machine
Hi I’m new to the channel…I drive a 2012 pathfinder…I’m not building anything because I’m a single dad with 2 boys but some day I hope to build a 60’s-70’s street rod or truck…God willing of course!…I’m almost 50…I love watching all the car building shows
You asked people to comment what they drive and what they are building so here it is. I've got a 2014 MX5 NC3 and its currently at BBR getting the stage two turbo kit and coil-overs. Brakes and tyre's next then I'll be going for wheels and paint restoration. Service items and an underseal is on the list too. What happens next is anybody's guess.
What I love about my rx7 FD, is the simplicity of the engine compared to any modern 4l or V6 Mine is air bolt ons, power FC ECU, getting 320 on the wheel , the rpm is limited now to 8300 might increase it if I tuned the car for the summer
As usual you come through with critical information. I'll be going to 400 on my na miata and I'm sure I'll have to address the head. Thanks again miata pops.!!!
Will defiantly be using this information on my NB1 when it gets its rebuild/turbo kit done but its running like a top ATM so doing a JDM inspired aero package upgrade on the outside first... and as always love the videos
Shim under bucket was the hardest part of my full build. Porting was easier...lol This is valuable information that I know i appreciate a bunch for the next miata build I do.
Hey Greg! I own a 2000 nb miata and I was thinking about doing a FM happy meal upgrade to my clutch. Some people I've heard say that they notice a difference in the acceleration in the car and some don't. Could you make a Dyno day video where you compare clutch weights? I'd love to see if there is any difference!!
Awesome episode, loved the back drops during the calculations! And as for these measurements: it is always good if you are able to verify work done by your machine shop. One question I have out of curiosity: did you measure the seat pressure of stock valve springs? If the seat pressure of stock valve springs are higher than the Volvo springs, I think the Volvo springs are a big no-no for everyone.
I will be testing the springs that come out of the stock NB head and adding that data to the /headgames page when I have it. I'm also very interested to compare the specs, but I do believe the stock springs are somewhere in the 46lbs/21kg range.
I’m late to the party but why stay with a standard spring. I would figure a beehive style would give you two added benefits of lighter weight valvetrain and better harmonics. They would cost more and be harder to find one with the correct specs but I’m sure they are out there.
Hey greg!! I'm not new but I drive a 2012 camaro 2ss!! Currently learning about fly cutting and different cam sizes and what different options do to the power band
I just love how well let's just say it how nerdy you are when it comes to engines. Yay for science :)))) Love the video very nice explanation and easy to follow for me at least. Can't wait for the next one. But no pressure ;P Edit: Big big big thanks for the metric units!!!
No units were used in the example, but if you were using m/s for the velocity yes the resulting acceleration would be m/s/s. Another valid unit could have been mi/h if you're really into the bald eagles, which would have resulted in absurd acceleration units of mi/h/s which is also valid but literally never used. I omitted units in order to reduce confusion, but it might have had the opposite effect, lol.
@@TheCarPassionChannel no no, it's really clear and understandable! me and my friends are rebuilding a bp6d and a b6 and we're into the valve regulation. this video is really gold :D
Hey Greg I have a question I own a 2003 Miata which I bought new it has around 35000 miles on it should I get the timing belt changed or wait to it has 60,000? We don't drive it much.
I'd recommend a video showing the valves exposed at 14k rpm, at that high rpm they start to skip and start to rotate (Edit: Didn't saw the part where you showed the video I referenced above)
Oof, that's a lot of maths... I thought I was smart when I removed/disassembled the lifters on my '96 1.8 to clean and re prime them with fresh oil to nix the lifter tic. Sheesh... Great info, buddy. Well done!
Love the data! Those mystery valve springs have me intrigued. I run the vs855 at 7200rpm / 300hp and do trackdays. You think I am gucci mayne? Also I ordered a .85AR turbine housing for the efr6258. Will be measuring turbine inlet temp and pressure before and after the swap while comparing to boost pressure.
I'm interested to hear what you think of the 0.85 against the 0.64, the 0.85 6258 car I drove felt sluggish, but for HPDE/track days it might be optimal and help with the top end. As far as your spring setup it will probably be just fine, next time you have the valve cover off just take 10 minutes to check your lash!
@@TheCarPassionChannel Awesome. Yup I will let you know what I come up with. between 6k and 7k is when the turbine inlet temp gets 1750-1800F. That's with e85 and 11.1 AFR. I am thinking the AR is too small but need to add a pressure sensor to confirm.
@@madmiata1887 Mmm now you speaka my language. Higher A/R should be safer for whatever ignition advance you run too. Haven't really grasped that yet but apparently smaller turbines restrict how much advance you can run. Maybe more pressure in the exhaust manifold leaves more residual heat in the combustion chambers during the exhaust stroke or something
@@TheCarPassionChannel I was reading that ideally the exhaust manifold and intake pressure should be 1:1 while in boost, which makes sense. I think with too small of a turbine housing the exhaust manifold pressure exceeds the intake pressure. At those higher flow points the engine can't breath enough and pressure/temps rise. That's a good point, the rise in combustion temp would get you closer to pre-ign / detonation events. It would make sense that keeping combustion temps and pressures in check would allow you to run more ign advance. I'm thinking spinning 7-8k with a .64AR is like breathing through a coffee stir straw, however great for that low to rid range response. I think the compressor housing flows the rated power, but you need the .85AR turbine housing to efficiently get there. We will find out!
So I just purchased a Miata here in Phx az turns out it was your broke and boosted Miata its in pretty rough shape I hope in time I could restore it to its glory days.
put the spring in the vice and squeeze it all the way down take that measurement and minus it from your installed height let's say you had and installed height of 1.600 and a coil bind of 1.100 that would leave you .500 and now let's say your camshaft lift is .450 that leaves you .050 to coil bind some spring manufacturers give you what they want you to have before coil bind clearance it helps with the harmonic of the spring
so the volvo springs are not recommended? :/ im building a 99 head with these springs and sub lifters with inconel exhaust valves, i was hoping that would be enough for my build but maybe not
Hey, what are you using to mark parts? I've tried pain pens, but they seem to run and are fine with LARGE parts, but forget small stuff... thanks. Good stuff!!!
Valve springs do not affect lash, but it's always a good idea to check your lash when you assemble your head. The one thing I will say is make sure they are not the cheap copies of the "Volvo springs" that have had documented failures.
I hope Miata owners realize how lucky we are to have Greg Peters. It can’t be easy to sink this much time into videos to share hard earned knowledge. I will like literally every video you ever put out before I even watch it because of how helpful I have found the content over the years.
Thank you man!!!
This, for real
Suddenly all the kids in school who thought math was useless got reeaal quiet
😂😂
me who struggled at math am sweating right now...
2am was going to bed... not anymore!
I was lucky i just saw it after a good night sleep.
Were getting 25 minutes of head bois
o.0
Won't be the last video on heads
Most of us won't last till the end of it🤣🤣🤣
@@Razvy800 ngl I had to watch 2 separate times
Definitely didn’t check halfway through to see if I accidentally clicked on an engineering explained video 😂😂 awesome video Greg!!
That cut through video of the valve train at 13:33. It's amazing anything survives longer than a lap!
I've counted you saying the word "valve" 101 times. Take it with a grain of salt tho, there's been about a dozen times where I either blacked out and wondered if you said the word or wondering what number I was at.
My favorite TH-cam creator collaborating with my favorite tuning shop one in Cal one in Germany. Love it! Miata community for the win!❤️
Same here. Weather i do things by myself, or have SPS doing it, which are located 3 hrs Autobahn away :)
Force = Mass x Accelaration = Miata is always the answer
As an engineering student I love your palatable example of cons of energy and Newton’s second law and how they apply to our hobby. Can’t wait to see the results of the rebuild!
This is prefect timing! I just finished cleaning my NB2’s engine bay! This is a well deserved break lol. Thanks Greg.
Hope all is well with you. I read your response in the comments that you're getting a breather and that work is busy. It's good. We all need it on occasions.
Just started a FM Turbo install a few days ago on a 2003 Shinsen Version. About half way through it now. Your videos helped a great bit both informationally, and inspirationally! Wanted you to know that YOU did that. Someone completely across the country from you. Thank you for what you do, man!
Just bought a clapped out 92 and I'm building a street monster out of her. Your channel has helped me out so much already and I know it's going to help so much more
Greg have you ever thought about pursuing a career in aviation maintenance? You have a great base knowledge of proper practices and an eye for accuracy. It could be a fulfilling, great paying avenue for your skill set.
I'm so happy you dropped this video. This is like the missing puzzle from TH-cam and now I might actually solve my head issues.
i just got this recommended. it's one of the best video regarding head (re)building tutorials. amazing job on explaining imperial and metric(tho you should just keep it metric).
this channel should grow a lot, i'm happy to be here before 10k subs.
Thank you for being here before 10k subs 🙏
I've always felt like I have lacked knowledge when it comes to the logistics of heads. This broke it down so easy and it all made sense. Thank you.
You are an absolute beast with those explanations!! thank you for that! This video thru me back to university I had to watch it twice to get it :D
It would be awesome if you will share what seat pressure is needed for what level of boost, and if there is any way of figureing out what is my current valves seat pressure without measuring each valve assembly
Greg has taught me so much about the internals of an engine. Thanks for showing me how things work. 🙏
Damn, this video contains so much information. I'm impressed how much research you have done.
I finally know why reving higher need so much effort.
Also, editing is always a blast in your videos, the mustang clip made me laugh loud!
New to the channel. Used to have a miata, now I'm wrenching on a factory five roadster. just converted to full sequential in megasquirt(full engine harness rebuild), I've got one thing to fix before I can try to start it up.
Hey Greg, awesome video as per usual! One thing I was thinking of as you were talking about the amount of boost pushing on the valve. A lot of technical videos talk about boost being a measurement of resistance in the engines ability to breathe. With that in mind, if you were to optimise and increase the airflow (not pressure) in and out of the engine, then in theory, you could run the same power at lower boost, which means less force acting on the valve train.
That being said, I guess you’d need to measure the airflow in and the airflow out of the engine, as optimising one over the other could impact the force on the intake and exhaust springs. Just some food for thought, as I know when I looked at Borg Warner turbos of a similar size, they seemed to require a lot more boost pressure than say a g25-550 to achieve the same power.
Boost pressure is a measure of restriction, correct. Airflow does make power, boost pressure is a result of restriction. So if you were making more power at lower boost you could technically run a softer spring but I would not think about that very much, just use the right springs. You're talking about +/- a few psi, if your springs are at the limit like that you should run something stiffer anyways.
As far as the EFR vs G25-550, I can't say I agree at least between similar setups (the G25-550's closest relative is the EFR6758). In Miataland, most of the time you see any car taking 28-32+psi to break into the 400's it's because it's either a 1.6L or it has a more restrictive intake or exhaust system. With proper intake/exhaust manifolds on a 99+ 1.8L either one of those turbos should be in the low 400's in the 21-24psi range. So when you're doing your research just remember that the engine that the turbo is bolted onto might be the reason it takes a lot more boost pressure to make power, and might not be the turbo itself. That being said, the new G series turbos have an incredibly efficient compressor.
Thank for this video, from a 2002 owner.
Love what you do here Greg, keep it up!! (From a friendly viewer in the UK!)
This has to be the most complicated and confusing topic you have tried to explain lol
Thanks for making this video and explaining in details about head
I have a 90hp NA and it will stay stock (has rollover bar and steeringwheel) 99% sure but man, il feel this videos are so usefull i love them!
3 days ago my NA had its 30th birthday, and it has stayed stock apart from a few cosmetic items (wood steering wheel, gear knob, handbrake handle, new wheels, new tan top, KG instrument cluster). Totally reliable!
I am working on the unloved 5SFE engine in my MR2. Just wait for the head to come back from the machine shop.
Greg was so flexing on us with all those big brain calculatory calculations.
My brain melted trying to keep up with it. 😅
🤣 Nobody......
Greg..... E=∆•√0.009÷(0.98+∆) +{yXπ}
+0.98= you need stiffer springs.
Absolutely invaluable stuff you are doing for us Miata NB nuts. Mines currently in the shop, swapping a 1.6 for a 1.8, reconditioned and reflowed and then supercharged. I am a sparky, so mechanically I have zero idea whats happening therefore I cannot express enough how much im learning about engines here.
Don't even have a miata any more but still subbed to support the quality educational content you produce. Keep it up my dude
Great video Greg, Yes that all makes sense. I expected the new springs to be longer and lighter and I am so pleased to have been right. I think it is an improvement in the spring dynamics?
They came from an experienced head builder who explained to me that seat pressure is far more important than "over the nose" pressure aka pressure at max lift. These will also be available for sale soon so I'll come back to this video and pin a comment with a link when that happens
Who disliked dads new video ? Gonna have to have a chat to them about this behaviour . Thanks creigh for the content as always
Love these videos, don’t have a miata, but I take so many of these videos and use them to understand my L28E in my 83 280zx!
That's what I like to hear!
sooo much info, love it!
At 5:43 I'm sure it's something else but kinda looks like a crack is forming?
Just sold my NA 😭 but saving up for an NC2. Still going to watch these videos 100x as soon as they are released.
Daily a 2015 Elantra, and Sunday drive a 1986 300zx GLL. Eventually going for 400hp to the wheels
I’m bout to own a 90 300zx z32 2 + 2 na! Picking up the car Wednesday if everything goes well. Plan on building a custom exhaust, roll cage, and intake cause I own most the things to build that. I own a hydraulic pipe bender, lathe, and milling machine
Hi I’m new to the channel…I drive a 2012 pathfinder…I’m not building anything because I’m a single dad with 2 boys but some day I hope to build a 60’s-70’s street rod or truck…God willing of course!…I’m almost 50…I love watching all the car building shows
You asked people to comment what they drive and what they are building so here it is. I've got a 2014 MX5 NC3 and its currently at BBR getting the stage two turbo kit and coil-overs. Brakes and tyre's next then I'll be going for wheels and paint restoration. Service items and an underseal is on the list too. What happens next is anybody's guess.
What I love about my rx7 FD, is the simplicity of the engine compared to any modern 4l or V6
Mine is air bolt ons, power FC ECU, getting 320 on the wheel , the rpm is limited now to 8300 might increase it if I tuned the car for the summer
At 5:43 in the video it looks like about a 1 inch crack has started to form where you show an empty lifter bore.
Yeah it ended up being a dog fur 🤣🤣
Good info here. Used to work in a machine shop a long time ago and this kinda takes me back.
I checked your channel early today with no new uploads and now this... yessssss it’s 2am but really it’s car passion time boiiii
As usual you come through with critical information. I'll be going to 400 on my na miata and I'm sure I'll have to address the head. Thanks again miata pops.!!!
The TH-cam videos we make and watch because who else teaches this to the masses? How easy life would be taking any class you want
In the future can you do a k swap Miata video on why People should or shouldnt
Will defiantly be using this information on my NB1 when it gets its rebuild/turbo kit done but its running like a top ATM so doing a JDM inspired aero package upgrade on the outside first... and as always love the videos
Just did a head gasket job on my NA6 last weekend. It all went fine but wish I had this knowledge before😭.
I'd love to see the same measurements taken on the Supertech light and heavy doubles.
I'm sure someone must have done it, and I also think the super tech seat pressures are listed by some sites who sell them
Check out lisle tool 36050, absolute time saver! Amazing ease of use for any work you have to do with valves
Bruh!!!! Love the math vids. I cant wait to see it all back together.
Miata dad back at it again!!!
Shim under bucket was the hardest part of my full build. Porting was easier...lol This is valuable information that I know i appreciate a bunch for the next miata build I do.
What part specifically is difficult? I've never done a SUB conversion myself so tell me what I'm in for, hahaha
Hey Greg! I own a 2000 nb miata and I was thinking about doing a FM happy meal upgrade to my clutch. Some people I've heard say that they notice a difference in the acceleration in the car and some don't. Could you make a Dyno day video where you compare clutch weights? I'd love to see if there is any difference!!
Yo, at 5:44 is that a crack it your head?
Thank you so much for explaining everything. I learned alot from your videos. You made it eyto understand ❤
19:30 So seat pressure drops as you compress the spring? This is a typo right?
I drive a 1990 Miata, no power (yet) but all the fun
Love the vids, and definitely not new to the channel but I drive an 83 celica. Even without a Miata your videos are super helpful and informative.
Now that really makes me go wow about motorcycle engines
Can you please try indexing a set of plugs since you have the head off? Then do dyno back to back and see if it makes anything happen?
Is this relating to the direction the arc faces in relation to the intake charge? I've never heard of it but it sounds intriguing
@@TheCarPassionChannel yes exactly
1981 Volvo 240! Currently building a prepped NA engine for it :)
I don't even have a Miata! Your channel rocks. You'd be a credit to the Lotus community if you ever decided to jump in one. Love this video!
Thanks dad! Been looking forward to this one!!
Awesome episode, loved the back drops during the calculations! And as for these measurements: it is always good if you are able to verify work done by your machine shop. One question I have out of curiosity: did you measure the seat pressure of stock valve springs? If the seat pressure of stock valve springs are higher than the Volvo springs, I think the Volvo springs are a big no-no for everyone.
I will be testing the springs that come out of the stock NB head and adding that data to the /headgames page when I have it. I'm also very interested to compare the specs, but I do believe the stock springs are somewhere in the 46lbs/21kg range.
Did you every tried a rotary ?
Why don't you try it?
I think it gonna be piece of cake to you with that experience
'91 NA6 new to me :)
1 point 6 gang!
Great content. Is not common see that topics explained on a easy and simply way.
Hey there, great video as always ♥ what's the difference between BP6D 3-2 and BP6D 2-2?
I’m late to the party but why stay with a standard spring. I would figure a beehive style would give you two added benefits of lighter weight valvetrain and better harmonics. They would cost more and be harder to find one with the correct specs but I’m sure they are out there.
What causes valve guides to fail?
Can high boost and valve float cause valve side way movement and cause damage to the guides?
Thanks for your time and effort Greg ,,Good video as always !
Flying miata valve compressor works awesome
Greg where are you? I need th eCar Passion Channel
quite interesting videos you have done what are you talking about the cylinder of the car I put like
GORG!
Gonna be honest, the springs in the vice seems SKETCH.
Hey greg!! I'm not new but I drive a 2012 camaro 2ss!! Currently learning about fly cutting and different cam sizes and what different options do to the power band
I just bought a 1997 Miata M Edition. Do you have any website recommendations for ordering OEM miata parts online? Keep up the great work.
I just love how well let's just say it how nerdy you are when it comes to engines. Yay for science :)))) Love the video very nice explanation and easy to follow for me at least. Can't wait for the next one. But no pressure ;P
Edit: Big big big thanks for the metric units!!!
great video, the only thing is that Acceleration is in m/s^2 ;)
No units were used in the example, but if you were using m/s for the velocity yes the resulting acceleration would be m/s/s. Another valid unit could have been mi/h if you're really into the bald eagles, which would have resulted in absurd acceleration units of mi/h/s which is also valid but literally never used. I omitted units in order to reduce confusion, but it might have had the opposite effect, lol.
@@TheCarPassionChannel no no, it's really clear and understandable! me and my friends are rebuilding a bp6d and a b6 and we're into the valve regulation. this video is really gold :D
Hey Greg I have a question I own a 2003 Miata which I bought new it has around 35000 miles on it should I get the timing belt changed or wait to it has 60,000? We don't drive it much.
I'd recommend a video showing the valves exposed at 14k rpm, at that high rpm they start to skip and start to rotate
(Edit: Didn't saw the part where you showed the video I referenced above)
Oof, that's a lot of maths... I thought I was smart when I removed/disassembled the lifters on my '96 1.8 to clean and re prime them with fresh oil to nix the lifter tic. Sheesh... Great info, buddy. Well done!
Everything good bro haven’t posted in a while
Mate at 5:44 I'm sure I saw a crack in the casting 🤔
Love the data! Those mystery valve springs have me intrigued. I run the vs855 at 7200rpm / 300hp and do trackdays. You think I am gucci mayne? Also I ordered a .85AR turbine housing for the efr6258. Will be measuring turbine inlet temp and pressure before and after the swap while comparing to boost pressure.
I'm interested to hear what you think of the 0.85 against the 0.64, the 0.85 6258 car I drove felt sluggish, but for HPDE/track days it might be optimal and help with the top end. As far as your spring setup it will probably be just fine, next time you have the valve cover off just take 10 minutes to check your lash!
@@TheCarPassionChannel Awesome. Yup I will let you know what I come up with. between 6k and 7k is when the turbine inlet temp gets 1750-1800F. That's with e85 and 11.1 AFR. I am thinking the AR is too small but need to add a pressure sensor to confirm.
@@madmiata1887 Mmm now you speaka my language. Higher A/R should be safer for whatever ignition advance you run too. Haven't really grasped that yet but apparently smaller turbines restrict how much advance you can run. Maybe more pressure in the exhaust manifold leaves more residual heat in the combustion chambers during the exhaust stroke or something
@@TheCarPassionChannel I was reading that ideally the exhaust manifold and intake pressure should be 1:1 while in boost, which makes sense. I think with too small of a turbine housing the exhaust manifold pressure exceeds the intake pressure. At those higher flow points the engine can't breath enough and pressure/temps rise. That's a good point, the rise in combustion temp would get you closer to pre-ign / detonation events. It would make sense that keeping combustion temps and pressures in check would allow you to run more ign advance. I'm thinking spinning 7-8k with a .64AR is like breathing through a coffee stir straw, however great for that low to rid range response. I think the compressor housing flows the rated power, but you need the .85AR turbine housing to efficiently get there. We will find out!
Where the videos at brotha???
Dude hope you are alive n' well? It's been a while..
95 m edition Miata. Ready for a rebuild still with original motor
Love your videos. Own a 94 SM. Selling my s2000 to buy an NC mX-5 cup car.
I HAVE A 2003 1.6 MX5 NB IS IT WORHT TO TUNE THIS CAR ?I BOT IT ALL STOCK
BTW YOU ARE AMAZING
So I just purchased a Miata here in Phx az turns out it was your broke and boosted Miata its in pretty rough shape I hope in time I could restore it to its glory days.
Keep me posted!
I think in a few years SPS motorsport will be heard a lot more! Not only in countrys as germany ;-D
New cams for the NB? Extra VVT engine? Do I see a Quinn-esque engine build happening?
Peep the top link in the description for a little extra Quinn-built info ;) (Section #3)
0:25 is that a challenge?
You need to check your coil bind hight you need around .060 clearance
Are you saying at full lift there needs to be an additional 0.060" of valve travel before coil bind?
put the spring in the vice and squeeze it all the way down take that measurement and minus it from your installed height let's say you had and installed height of 1.600 and a coil bind of 1.100 that would leave you .500 and now let's say your camshaft lift is .450 that leaves you .050 to coil bind some spring manufacturers give you what they want you to have before coil bind clearance it helps with the harmonic of the spring
so the volvo springs are not recommended? :/ im building a 99 head with these springs and sub lifters with inconel exhaust valves, i was hoping that would be enough for my build but maybe not
At 20+psi I would use something with more seat pressure to be safe. Wish I would have known too!
Hey, what are you using to mark parts? I've tried pain pens, but they seem to run and are fine with LARGE parts, but forget small stuff... thanks. Good stuff!!!
The silver/metallic sharpies are great!
I have a set of those volvo valve springs to throw in my turbo miata (230whp) im assuming ill need to check and possibly reshim for correct lash?
Valve springs do not affect lash, but it's always a good idea to check your lash when you assemble your head. The one thing I will say is make sure they are not the cheap copies of the "Volvo springs" that have had documented failures.
@@TheCarPassionChannel Thanks! Good to know, I got them from VPAutoparts