Just did this repair today. Took forever without a lift but was definitely do able. The fuel lines were a pain in the butt to get off lol. Love your content and bc of it I’ve been diving in head first with fixing all types of stuff and have a ton of confidence!
When I first bought my E46, my CEL was on for P0171 & P0174. I fixed multiple vacuum leaks and replaced multiple vacuum lines but that still wasn’t the cause. After doing some more research and digging around, I gave this fuel filter / pressure regulator a shot since it wasn’t very difficult to replace. My CEL finally went off and the codes went inactive. I would’ve never imagined this fuel filter was the culprit but it makes sense. I guess my filter was so dirty and clogged up that it was causing an restriction creating a lean mixture. I guess sometimes you just gotta stick to the basic maintenance stuff.
@@madfisherisme could also be the vacuum lines for the pcv being cracked, bad plugs, bad pre cat o2 sensors. Smoke the intake to confirm if you have vacuum leaks first.
Be sure to change that little 3” piece of vacuum hose from the filter to the hard plastic line. My codes were the result of it completely disintegrating, coming off the fuel pump and suckin’ air.
I just did this yesterday on my 325ci. The convertible is a little different taking the back seat out but very straight forward.Thank you very much for posting this! I changed out all the fuel hoses, vacuum line and OEM BMW hose clamps as well.
Thanks for the videos changed mine today :). Just a littel side tip if you want no fuel to come out of the lines you can run your car to a quarter tank "maybe even half" jack the car from the front as high as you can so the fuel stays at the back of your car. leave your car like this for a couple hours "i left mine for 24hrs" There should only be abit of fuel left in the fuel filter that you will need to worry about.
To minimize the fuel spilling out I shoved a golf tee in each line as soon as it was removed from the filter. Worked great but a small amount of fuel coming out is a given however I didn't need a pan to collect the few drops.
Thank you Sir! My wife's 2004 325i had exact same symptoms : fuel pressure not quite 50psi (key to 2nd position & engine not running), Loss of pressure when key turned off, and pressure fluctuation of less than 50psi when engine idling. I changed filter last night and engine sounds as it should this morning--a slight beautiful hum!
but on a serious note. You could use some Xtra clamps or a vice grip set to clamp the hoses near the fuel filter ,That would keep the gasoline from pouring out
Thanks again for the detailed intel. Really appreciate it. One question, that vacuum hose should that little piece be replaced or the whole line? Not sure where that line ends.
+rene alvarado Little piece. It is rubber 1/8th vacuum line. The rest of the line is hard plastic. On a 323/328i it terminates at the end of the fuel rail (nearest the firewall) and on a 325/330i it terminates in the F shaped connector in the upper intake boot.
Hi, your videos are a great help for the M54 owners(including me). I have a situation now, and I'm really curious about your opinion about it. Let's start with the start. More than a year ago I discovered that I couldn't empty my fuel tank more than 1/8th of the meter. When the warning light came on, my car died(with a left range of 80-90km). It happened 2 times before I knew I had to fuel earlier, and the problem was 'solved'. Half a year ago, the engine check light came sometimes on. It was not always there, but just sometimes. It was throwing the codes P0174 and p0171. At first, i was looking for a vacuum leak somewhere. I changed the DISA gasket, the valve cover gasket(including new vanos), and the two Rubber boots at the intake. It was still coming back. I changed my MAF sensor, but this also not helps, and the last days its getting worse. After i fuelled the car completely up, it was really worse. At cold starts, its dieing directly 2 or 3 times. After that its shuddering and on 5-cilinders. It throws codes P1085, P1083, P0174 and 0171. Also sometimes the car is giving a whistling noise, coming from behind, that differs on the revs. After long thinking I will change my fuel pump and filter(regulator). I guess thats the only logically left thing, except of a closed/contaminated catalysator. What do you think?
The problem is solved! It was the fuel pump, it was failing. Not completely failing, but failing in capacity. More than half a year my car was running too lean due to this pump. In the first 5m i felt the difference. Feels like a diesel now, much more torque in the low RPM's. Still thanks for your answer.
also I hear the airport but it also sounds like someone's cutting grass haa. Thanks man. I just bought a 2000 328i also and love it so far,it has 150k and runs really good and the exterior is in excellent condition for a 15 year old car. I want to get it back to stock power at the LEAST.
+david Crawford So be aware that you have a different fuel system--a return style where the fuel pressure regulator is separate from the filter. I'll be doing a future video on this one because a friend of mine has one that needs replacing, but it's actually extremely simple. You'll see the pressure regulator (it's got a vacuum line going to it) and you'll see that there is a sort of metal retaining clip holding it in. You pull that out and then just pull the regulator out (if you determine you need to change it).
You've got the M52 engine. It's basically the same thing only the M54 has an extra 0.2 liters of displacement (and a few more horsepower), the different fuel system as I mentioned, and instead of the solid aluminum skid plate underneath the car you have 3 tubular braces in a triangular shape. Also you've got the pre-body lift front end. No xenon cat's eye headlamps.
bad vacuum line to the fuel filter caused a 174 code on my 2004 bmw 325i. service engine light was on a year. drove me crazy. fuel pump went out and while replacing it and the fuel pump he found the bad vacuum line at the filter. code free no light now.
Awesome, I am getting a P0174 on my 2003 325iAT. I practively purchased solid silcone hose to run from the filter all the way up to the intake. Doing the filter today, hopefully this is the source of my vacuum leak
hi 50's kid! I love you video's and they have helped me a lot during my maintenance to my 320CI BMW 2003 anyhow i was wonder how many miles your car has done before you replaced the filter? i just did mine after 100.000 miles and i havent seen any of the black stuf coming out of my filter... greetings from the Netherlands!
Thanks for this video! The F-connector is located in the air intake pipe, before the throttle butterfly, so there is no vacuum here. Where does the thin vacuum line get it's vacuum from, in order to operate the fuel pressure regulator?
Also, the larger diameter pipe of the F-connector goes to the sucking jet pump "branch" which DOES see manifold vacuum. This would effectively bypass the throttle butterfly?! What have i misunderstood here?
It's not a vacuum controlled fuel pressure regulator, it's fixed. That line is there just in case the diaphragm bursts--it routes the fumes into the intake.
i just replaced mine while doing all the fluids and filters on a newly purchased e46. its easy enough to do and if you got the car up already might as well.
Thanks for Sharing.........Just FYI....When replacing hose clamps -fuel, vacuum, coolant etc. I try to use the "Pressed" OEM Style "Worm" Clamps such as Oetiker (OEM) or Norma/Gemi (They have pressed threads) The clamps that you installed have the "cut holes" for the threads. A BMW Mechanic explained that those type clamps(with the holes for threads) damage the hoses because they cut into the hose. As the hose ages it is more likely to fail sooner. I presume that is why BMW uses them. They can be found if you look for them. I know that AutohausAZ carries them.
The line connected to the pressure regulator is not a vacuum line. It is attached to the F connector on the intake boot just after the MAF. It basically just needs atmospheric pressure not vacuum.
I changed the ccv kit on a 2005 bmw 325I. It developed a fuel leak where the fuel inlet hose connects to the fuel rail. It has a small crack. I know that area has a quick connect. Will it be the same on the other end?
Great video! I want to try this DIY on a 2004 330ci but had a bad experience in the past. I did the same procedure on a 04 325i and the car would not start after the fuel filter had been changed. I could not figure out what caused the issue so I put the old fuel filter back into the car and it turned on. My question is, could it have possibly been a defective new fuel filter? If so, then what's the part number for my vehicle? Thanks in advance.
+moraleseli1994 You need the same filter that you see in in the video--I actually mention the Keyser part number, which isn't the bmw part number, but look on eBay and you'll find it. Keyser is the OEM brand and you can find it for a better price on eBay. Can't say why the car didn't start in your situation, except that maybe you mixed up the inlet and return lines (at the back of the filter).
hello sir, I appreciate the videos. i was wondering have you ever had a p1250 code? I read it can be due to not enough fuel pressure, what do you think? thanks.
Got a question for ya. I just replaced my fuel filter in my e46 today, well going off your video the two lines on the back of your fuel filter are/were reversed on mine because I just put them where they were before on the old fuel filter. Would the car still run with them reversed to know for sure if they were in the wrong placement all along and now even? Damn, I really didn’t feel like getting gas all over again even with pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting it run before replacing.
thats a pump and return line from the pressure regulator built into the filter, i dont believe it will run reversed, as the pump feed will be going into the outlet of the regulator... then again, who knows. lol
Hello, I've watched your video many times, and it has helped me so much. Thank you for that! However, for the past year, I've been struggling with a specific issue on my BMW E46 SULEV M56 engine (325i). The car works fine in the summer or when it's warm outside, but once the temperature drops to around 34°F, it won't start. After trying 20-30 times, it eventually starts, but all the gauges light up. Once it’s working up, everything works as if nothing happened. I suspect it might be related to the fuel line, but I'm not sure where to look. I've tried everything, and no mechanic has been able to identify the problem. If you have any advice or ideas, I’d greatly appreciate it-I'm desperate at this point.Thank you
Hi, great info as always. Was curious to know how often the filter needs changing? I've heard opinions ranging from 10k to 50k, but is it something that should be done annually? Thanks😊
Hi. What would happen if one would mixed up the fuel lines and hook up the new filter with the return line on the inside? Would the car still start? I think I may just done it that way?
hey man I have a question. I have a idle fluctuation only on cold start,not cold weather, and the car seems to fix itself or go away when I start driving. it stays at around 800 rpm then will drop about every 8 seconds to like 4-500 rpm then go right back up. I was told it could be a vanos? any help would be awesome. keep the videos coming.
+david Crawford I don't think it's the VANOS. My guess--and I'm completely guessing here--is that there may be an intermittent fuel delivery problem--possibly with your fuel pump. I would check fuel pressure, first thing.
old question but still - if some of you have idle problems with cold starts with cold weather (below 13°C) and then when the car gets to temperature the idle is normal (and also when the problem goes away with cold start when the air temperature is warmer than 14°C) - THEN you have a problem with vanos on your M52TUB engine. The ar has special mode when the outside temperature is low, that it opens the vanos on neutral to build heat in as quickly as possible - that is why it is mysteriously occuring only when cold starting on cold day. On M54 this probably wont happen as it should have an electronic fix for that mapped in ECU. I am just writing it anywhere I can because it took me a lot of time to find the problem on miine, so you can sort out yours if it does the same :)
hi! @50sKid Do you happen to know whether the FPR integrated in the filter is the same size as the M52TUs that have it on the injector rail (Euro setup)? For some reason, it seems that my type of FPR is not being made anymore, except for some Ridex junk I would not trust.
i was going to this today on my 330ci and the hoses that go on the filter are rotten af so i need to replace them, anyone knows what size it is and also i want to change the clamps as well, i can't seem to find any info on sizes
Hi, lots of great info on your videos. I measured 50psi fuel pressure on my E46 and it doesn't fluctuate with acceleration. It drops if I manually apply a vacuum to the small hose that connects to the F tube. I don't feel any vacuum coming from the f connector. Do you know what the vacuum measurement should be? Is the vacuum source supposed to come from the bigger jet pump hose? If so, what reading should I expect at the larger hose in case it is semi/clogged?
Hey, i replaced my fuel filter and went for a test drive, ive been driving with the temp on display on the dash because of some overheating issues i had a couple months back, which i fixed by replacing the thermostat and water pump, but now when im idling for a couple minutes the car starts overheating and goes back to normal temp once i start driving again, please help me!!!
Turns out my fuel pressure regulator is not on the fuel filter, but at the front of the fuel rail. I say this because I've been getting a strong fuel smell under the bonnet since winter of 2021. I thought it was the injectors and replaced them all at a hundred bucks a pop summer 2022. fuel smell reduced somewhat but was still there after shut down. the stealer told me it was my purge valve, so I replaced it in march, a few months ago. mechanic who did my waterpump and thermostat last week, told me that the fuel smell is coming from the fuel pressure regulator and or the vacuum-like hose attached to it. the hose is really cracked. I'm getting the feeling that that hose carries fuel vapors from the fpr after shutdown? is that fpr difficult to replace? do i have to remove the fuel rail? don't particularly want to do that again.
If you have the old system where the two are separate, no you don't need to change the regulator. If you have the newer system where they're both integrated, well, you have no choice lol
oh man, excellent. i never ever ever have to go to the dealer here in japan again. whenever i go to the dealer here for a part number, theyre always trying to get me to order the part from them. And yo, the prices here? anywhere from 2 - 7x more expensive. for example: spark plugs here are 22 bucks each and four rotors with all the pads are 600 bucks.
If I accidentally hope the feed lines into the wrong spot meaning fuel into pressure regulator and pressure regulator into fuel the feed would it cause a problem with the regulator
dirty fuel filter restricts fuel flow and that causes lean fuel trims under load (that affect the performance of your car). The codes it can trigger are P0171 and P0174 (related to lean running conditions)
@@chrispirrone7798 Lean codes can also be caused by vacuum leaks. With the engine warmed to optimal temperature, check fuel trim data - first at idle, then under load (even better if you can check them while driving). If you got really high fuel trims at idle, and they go lower when you raise the revs to 2-3k, you likely have a vacuum leak. If you got low fuel trims at idle, and high under load... Then you might have a fuel delivery issue, or a MAF which reports bad information
@@FStan-co8vv ok thanks but within the last year replaced maf 02 sensors fuel injectors plugs coil packs cats fuel filter purge valve DMTL pump vacuum canister vacuum control valve and 3.5 mm vac lines the only thing I haven’t done is remove intake oh yeah and CCV system
Would the vacuum hose coming off the fuel filter cause loping idle & stalling? I just changed mine but its winter here & a parking lot full of ice. Thanks for any idea's.
I have a 1998 BMW 540i. Going to replace fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. E39 540i 3/2-way valve and fuel hoses(my diagram). How to I release fuel pressure before removing. Do I remove fuel pump fuses in glove box and or in the trunk? Both? After I remove fuse, start car and wait for it to die? Thanks for any information. Greatly appreciated.
Could a faulty regulator cause over-fuelling? I've got negative trim on both banks and the car reeks of fuel after a journey, but there are never puddles underneath.
Hello, I have the same problem on my S54. Beast of an engine. BMW mechanics can’t find a leak and thought maybe carbon canister or I over filled the tank. Head me h even took it home as a road test. They looked at me like I was imagining things. It spewed gas on my driveway and road first time like a leaking line. Still stinks inside after running a while and can smell gas from the engine bay top left area in front of the driver but can’t see drips. Okay So I’m thinking the fuel pressure regulator may be faulty but maybe partly plugged the leak. Worried she may blow up one day as the engine runs hot. Getting it looked at tomorrow. Please let me know if you sorted out the problem, thanks and good luck.
@@osoyoosforever9643 I fixed my problem - the vacuum line to the fuel pump pressure regulator had detached. This caused both fuel to leak out of it AND the pump to run over the rated pressure (hence the negative trim - the computer was "backing off" the fuel delivery because of the extra pressure). I'm not sure if the S54 uses vacuum to regulate the fuel pump, but check your filter! Failing this, it will be a leaking injector seal or injector body, or a high-pressure fuel line into the injector rail - all serviceable parts.
I need to replace vacuum hose from F point to filter smaller one on bottom. What size of hose is that and what length I need to go all the way to fuel filter ?
I have an 03 325xi is it the same process to change the fuel filter? and do I need to buy the regular fuel filter or the filter with the pressure regulator?
hey question changed my fuel pump and fuel filter front two o2 sensors on my 2002 325i still getting a po152 po174 p1085 ive done the checks for vacuum leaks changed boots f connector and all lines i can see not sure what else it could be any help would be greatly appreciated still getting misfires 5/6 cant get it to pass inspection car is starting to be a pain i have the rear o2 sensor to put in next car is running at 27%stft on bank two only would the rear o2 sensor cause it to lean out
Hi....I just got my E46 about 2 weeks ago and I love it...it's a 325xi. 2005.....well I got 3 pending codes p0172,p0175 and a p1448...any advice on that?...fuel pump and filter replaced...new MAF ,plugs but not sure about o2 sensors....or ecm....any advice will be greatly appreciated....keep up with the videos they're great
Da Maestro buy the filter and take it to any car shop get them to fit the hose's on you will need a silicone hose for the pressure wich is the smallest and fuel hose for the rest you will also need 6 clamps that can fit the 3 fuel hose's try get them in stainless steel so they dont rust
Love your videos! This morning my 2005 325xi was running in the driveway and then it quit. Never happened before. Now it won't start. Motor turns over but doesn't start. Any suggestions?
Paul Gunn dead fuel pump maybe. Try pressing the schrader valve in on the fuel rail with a screwdriver and seeing if there is pressure. If not, it’s dead
Schrader valve OK, replaced relay, fuse ok. Still turns over but won't start? Any thoughts before I have it towed away for yet another expensive shop bill? Thanks!
Thanks 50kids for your another great vedio, I am a big fan of you and your diy vedios now. My problem is exactly same as david Crawford . My car is E60 525i 2004with enginge M54 i replaced fuel filter which was horribly dirty , replaced also feul pump but the problem still exists. They told me to clean injectors because old feul filter was very dirty. Do you recommend me cleaning them to solve this problem and what is the correct way to clean them.
+Yazan Alaya What are the fuel trims telling you? If you don't have high fuel trims (indicating that your car is under-delivering fuel), then paying for a fuel injector cleaning may be a waste of money.
This video is 2 years old but just in case the viewers want to know I believe those clamps are removed with a 1/4 socket. Not a 1/4 ratchet, but a 1/4 socket. :)
Hi, my 330ci has some sort of internal leak in the fuel system that causes fuel pressure to drop over time. I'm not exactly sure what is causing this but it seems to hold pressure for longer when the car has run for quite a while vs she drops fuel pressure quicker when she has only run a few miles (under the same ECT temp). Could it be a faulty pressure regulator that holds pressure for longer when it gets heated up from the heat of the exhaust ?
+frank j it's the check valve inside of the fuel pump. It goes bad over time. You can install an aftermarket inline check valve immediately after the pump for about $7 that will solve the problem. Search for fuel check valve on Amazon and buy a 10mm one.
i have a rough idle on my m54 b30 and i don’t have any vacuum leaks, re did the vanos, re did the ccv new spark plugs and coils i have no codes either the fuel filter hasn’t been changed, do you think this is my issue?
cleaned the MAS sensor ? clean the trottle body ? Changed fuel injectors ? Change the fuel filter ? Check the rear of engine near firewall for 2 vacuum hoses that are always going bad. Lucas injector cleaner in gas tank ?
Unlikely that it's the culprit for your misfire but still it's a bad thing because it causes a vacuum leak. So replace the vacuum line (preferably all vacuum lines, those cars are old and that rubber is crumbling 100%). If you got a single cylinder misfire it's more likely you have a problem with the ignition coil or spark plug of that cylinder (rarely injector failure). To test the coils, take a coil from a good cylinder and swap it with the cylinder that has the misfire. If the misfire moves to the other cylinder, you know you got a bad coil
another great vidI see you have worked on M52tu...can you please tell me where on the vacuum fuel regulator on top of motor ...the tube has no vacuum so am thinking it is split somewhere the Bentley tells nothing where it goes ....and absolute waste of money except for the codes and electrical diagrams but lacks what value components are when I last emailed you about the replacement of Disa diaphragm you should do a vid on this because it does gets trickyI just replaced my vacuum diaphragm on the DISA ...not hard but just have to apply lots of leverage with a long thin screwdriver and then getting it back together is not too bad...just have to line all the parts up ....my diaphragm was split right where it comes in contact with the edge of the top cap...can see this being a problem cause contact on the diaphragm should have been either flat or rounded but this is thin walled and can cut the diaphragm over time
The line on the top of the fuel rail runs from the fuel pressure regulator down under the body (approximately underneath the feet of the driver -- left hand drive cars), up along the side of the fuel rail and down to the CCV oil separator, which only has a little tiny tiny bit of vacuum. It's only purpose is in case the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm bursts, the gasoline vapors will be sucked into the CCV system and then into the intake manifold to be recycled.
hmmm sometimes when I stop I can smell fuel vapour,so maybe it could be the regulator leaking, but at idle there seems no vacuum at regulator A fuel pressure gauge should tell if there is a problem with regulator?.LTFT still show 11.7+ on both banks so there seems to still be another vacuum leak
It's a possibility. If your fuel pressure regulator diaphragm were torn, your fuel pressure would be low which could cause a lean condition but then again fuel would be leaking into that vacuum hose and getting sucked into the intake manifold which could cause a rich condition. So it's kind of tricky. Yes, a fuel pressure gauge would be the way to confirm that. What are your total fuel trims at 2500 rpm?
will check stft and ltft when Wifie brings back the car ..so far have found vacuum leaks in top T/C gasket, oil filter body,Disa o'ring and diaphragm. plugged up exhaust flap,have to make a smoke machine if I can find a metal paint tin ,all plastic here
+50sKid Great videos,I have a ? My car lost power 3 times in one day.I have lean codes p0174p0171 and now my car want start and if it does which is rare it stalls immediatelyIt throw codes at 69mphNo pressure at the fuel valve.im getting ready to install a fuel pump.But before I do could it be the fuel filter/regulater.I hear the pump prime when I turn the key
Hi I have a question, I have a 2010 328i xdrive sulev and I was told that the Fuel Pressure Regulator is faulty, they already replaced the Fuel Pump, now they want to charge me 3k to change the Fuel Pump Assembly which includes Fuel Tank and kits, should I go to a Independent mechanic and change only the Fuel Pressure regulator? Thanks
Yes it's very very similar. You'll see a slightly different configuration of things where the fuel filter is. I believe the charcoal canister is next to it. But the fuel filter looks the same.
Hey 50s kid, I love your videos man keep at it! I do have a ? for you, I have been working on my 2000 323i BMW e46 wagon with the bleed down fuel pressure long cranking issues. Ive replaced fuel pump twice, fuel pressure regulator with valve and replaced all injectors and when I turn key on fuel pressure goes to 50 and it leaks down to zero in a matter of seconds. Car running good tho. Any ideas? Suggestions? I am going crazy trying to figure it out. Thanks in advance man. Hope you can respond.
I have a 325xi and for some reason SOMETIMES it sounds like a 4x4 like you can really hear the fan spin when I hit the throttle. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. And the other thing my fuel trims are around 10 to 14 positive and when I hit the gas it stays about the same. The long term is like -4. Do you have any ideas
50sKid today at cold start the fuel trims were at -4 then at warm up it was at +14 then after maybe 20min it goes down to +3to+4 but still gets the p0171 and p0174 codes
@@bigidol9789 sold it for big profit only paid 300$ for it put 1000$ into it sold for 3500. took some time after i cleared the code but the fuel filter worked fine
Hi 50s kid, I believe you responded to my questions regarding fuel regulator but when I went to read it I received a message saying "message reported" and I don't see your reply anymore. i apologize for the error and was wondering if you can repost? Also want to clarify that my concern is that if no vacuum is present at the small F tube fitting, especially during idle, that defeats the purpose of the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm... Any help is appreciated since I suspect there should be a vacuum during idle
+George Santana I think I've responded like 3 times already. The fuel pressure regulator on the M54 is regulated to the atmospheric vacuum coming from in front of the throttle plate, which is very small compared to the manifold vacuum coming from behind the throttle plate. You're not going to see any vacuum at that F connector when at idle, because that vacuum is created by air rushing past that opening when it's going through the intake boot and into the engine. At idle, the throttle plate is closed, and there is only a tiny amount of air going through (into the idle air control valve). In other words, you can ignore it. If you have 50psi in your fuel system while running, then that is normal. The sucking jet pump increases manifold vacuum for the brake booster by acting as a one way valve.
Wat was you symptoms that gave you this see i keep getting random misfire in 1st cylinder code with cut off fuel i change o2 all 4 i change fan clutch i change fuel injector i change transs and oil. I change allot im thinking its my fuel filter wen i press down on gas. Hesitations. Mis fire starvation. All that. Idk lmk
Hi,need some help here! my wagon goes out of fuel at 1/4 tank,when i checked the obc cluster menu in test 6 it shows for example 10 liters in the left side and 6 in the right side, i know this is wrong because is supposed to transfer the fuel from left to right side and when less of half a tank the left side should be empty or nearly empty. new vdo fuel pump,new kayser filter,replaced the siphone pump,new fpr vac lines,new oem fuel tank cap and still having the same issue at 1/4 tank most of the fuel is on the left side. no codes no problems just that issue at 1/4 tank. any help?
John Gonzalez , I have the same problem but I haven’t replaced any parts yet . When my tank gets to 1/4 with say 60 miles left if goes to die out and has no power
@@SuperBolt666 problem solved,for some reason the vdo pump wasn't strong enough to produce the right pressure,did a test with an old aftermarket pump and in 5 seconds the left side went to zero confirming the pump was weak. Ended replacing the pump. I noticed the pump weakness when I pulled out the fuel pump connector the engine died immediately,its supposed to run for a few seconds and then die. The jet pump inside the tank needs the return line pressure to work if the return line is weak the suction jet pump wont work. Do the test I did,I know filters can get clogged but if the engine is running great with 1/4 or more gas tank the filter is ok.
Love your videos!! I've been getting a few codes on my 2000 Bmw 323i wagon.. P1188 fuel control bank 1 sensor 1, P1189 fuel control bank 2 sensor 1, P0170 fuel trim bank 1 and P0173 fuel trim bank 2. Could the fuel filter be the problem? If it was your car, what would you fix first? Then next.. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Hi I have a Bmw 325xi 2003, I just replace all fuel injectors and spark plugs, keep giving to me a miss fire code on 6 and 4, turn on fine and when I try to drive just engine shut down.. please help me..
Looks like two sizes of vacuum hose, what are inner/outer specs needed? Want to change the whole ling back to the F connector, seems like it'd be way more than a foot?
hey , im a fan of your work. i had a problem with my bmw 320ci 2005 in bank1 and bank 2, i changed all lean codes. so , do i need to change my fuel pump to , cuz it feels like my car lose it power .. she goes slower up to 100km/h . and why do we need to change the fuel pump what does it do? help me out i need this. EU miles 15000 .
i had code p0171 p0174, and after some changing one of them is gone but i still had a bank2 code left in my scan. so i guess its cilender 4-5-6 `? what can it be ?
i had code p0171 p0174, and after some changing one of them is gone but i still had a bank2 code left in my scan. so i guess its cilender 4-5-6 `? what can it be ?
Does anyone know the vacuum hose size/specs he mentions you should change out at the beginning? Looks like an end cap piece and the main vacuum hose. Inner outer Diameter of each??? Thanks!
Hi @50skid. Thanks for your great vids! Say, Could I buy a Kayser fuel filter without pressure regulator and reuse the regulator from my old filter (put it on the new filter when replacing?)? Found the naked Kayser fuel filter for 16 $ @ OEMbimmer. My ride is a 2001 300xi. Cheers
If you have an M52TU engine you are supposed to have the bare fuel filter like that. The pressure regulator is separate. Watch this video on a car that has this type of system and you will see what it looks like: th-cam.com/video/jqef_Xpz7Og-/w-d-xo.html- Consult realoem.com and enter in the last 7 digits of your VIN number to find the exact part number for your car and then type that part number into google or ebay and you will see what the part looks like and then you'll know what system you have.
And that's the part: 01 Fuel filter with pressure regulator D=55MM/L=315MM 1 13327512019 $96.84 .....//// Means I need to buy the one with pressure regulator on it, right? Cheers!
Great video, learning a lot from you about maintenance on my new e46. Do you know what size hoses are used in the fittings and the pressure regulator (I have a feeling I will need to update those too when I change the filter...) Cheers
can someone please answer my question. can a dirty fuel filter cause erratic RPM on cold start which disappears when the engine runs for a few minutes?
Ben Horsley it jumps up and down between 800 and 900 rpm and you feel the car shaking. It settles after the engine warms up. And it smokes (white/blue) while it jumps up and down
I don't know if anyone is still checking messages here. I have a crank/no start with P0171 and P0174 lean codes. I will be changing fuel filter and fuel pump tomorrow as I put in a fuel pump from a pick n pull and feels like same issue. Also SES light is on. Any other suggestions?
La petite durite qui ce branche sur le filtres a carvurant dpis normalement aspire le doigt et moi il y a aucune aspirations dou peux venir le soucis merci merci ????
Just did this repair today. Took forever without a lift but was definitely do able. The fuel lines were a pain in the butt to get off lol. Love your content and bc of it I’ve been diving in head first with fixing all types of stuff and have a ton of confidence!
Use cigarette lighter to warm hoses, make them pliable--OH WAIT...never mind! (seriously a heat gun could help)
@@Mrbfgray? 😂
When I first bought my E46, my CEL was on for P0171 & P0174. I fixed multiple vacuum leaks and replaced multiple vacuum lines but that still wasn’t the cause. After doing some more research and digging around, I gave this fuel filter / pressure regulator a shot since it wasn’t very difficult to replace. My CEL finally went off and the codes went inactive. I would’ve never imagined this fuel filter was the culprit but it makes sense. I guess my filter was so dirty and clogged up that it was causing an restriction creating a lean mixture. I guess sometimes you just gotta stick to the basic maintenance stuff.
Was your PO171 pending and PO174 confirmed ? I’m having this issue SES light P0174 on right now and can’t figure it out.
I'm having the same issue I changed my fuel filter and cracked intake boot and fuel pressure regulator hose still getting the lean codes
@@madfisherisme could also be the vacuum lines for the pcv being cracked, bad plugs, bad pre cat o2 sensors. Smoke the intake to confirm if you have vacuum leaks first.
Be sure to change that little 3” piece of vacuum hose from the filter to the hard plastic line. My codes were the result of it completely disintegrating, coming off the fuel pump and suckin’ air.
I got lean codes in both banks and found the upper rubber part of the pressure regulator hose is crumbled. That might be it!
I just did this yesterday on my 325ci. The convertible is a little different taking the back seat out but very straight forward.Thank you very much for posting this! I changed out all the fuel hoses, vacuum line and OEM BMW hose clamps as well.
Thanks for the videos changed mine today :). Just a littel side tip if you want no fuel to come out of the lines you can run your car to a quarter tank "maybe even half" jack the car from the front as high as you can so the fuel stays at the back of your car. leave your car like this for a couple hours "i left mine for 24hrs" There should only be abit of fuel left in the fuel filter that you will need to worry about.
Maybe if the check valve in the fuel pump is weak. otherwise the fuel line should hold pressure regardless of doing a wheelie with your car
To minimize the fuel spilling out I shoved a golf tee in each line as soon as it was removed from the filter. Worked great but a small amount of fuel coming out is a given however I didn't need a pan to collect the few drops.
I used ur method and made this job clean! Thank u
Hey man I just wanna say your videos have been a MASSIVE help with working on my e46 much appreciated
Vintage 50sKid, still informing audiences years later! Thank you so much!
Thank you Sir! My wife's 2004 325i had exact same symptoms : fuel pressure not quite 50psi (key to 2nd position & engine not running), Loss of pressure when key turned off, and pressure fluctuation of less than 50psi when engine idling. I changed filter last night and engine sounds as it should this morning--a slight beautiful hum!
+SKOOBIE TURNER Nice!
Just finished changing mine. Super easy thanks to your video! 👍🏽
Might want to consider not using your power driver when gas is present. Brushes make sparks make fire.
May be he has brushless drill😜, but its a very good advise you gave. Kind regards stefan
How about the 320i with the M54B22 engine? does it use a filter with built in fuel regulator?
it should, yes
Okey, thanks for the quick reply!
@50skid the head of the worm gear clamps are 5.5mm.
but on a serious note. You could use some Xtra clamps or a vice grip set to clamp the hoses near the fuel filter ,That would keep the gasoline from pouring out
link??? pllzzzzzzzz
Thanks again for the detailed intel. Really appreciate it. One question, that vacuum hose should that little piece be replaced or the whole line? Not sure where that line ends.
+rene alvarado Little piece. It is rubber 1/8th vacuum line. The rest of the line is hard plastic. On a 323/328i it terminates at the end of the fuel rail (nearest the firewall) and on a 325/330i it terminates in the F shaped connector in the upper intake boot.
50sKid, thank you and again awesome work.
You’re so clear and educational. Thank you
i know its been a while since uploading but what size hose did you buy for the vacuum line? thanks
vacuum line is 5/32 or 3.5mm
Hi, your videos are a great help for the M54 owners(including me).
I have a situation now, and I'm really curious about your opinion about it.
Let's start with the start.
More than a year ago I discovered that I couldn't empty my fuel tank more than 1/8th of the meter. When the warning light came on, my car died(with a left range of 80-90km). It happened 2 times before I knew I had to fuel earlier, and the problem was 'solved'.
Half a year ago, the engine check light came sometimes on. It was not always there, but just sometimes. It was throwing the codes P0174 and p0171. At first, i was looking for a vacuum leak somewhere. I changed the DISA gasket, the valve cover gasket(including new vanos), and the two Rubber boots at the intake. It was still coming back. I changed my MAF sensor, but this also not helps, and the last days its getting worse. After i fuelled the car completely up, it was really worse. At cold starts, its dieing directly 2 or 3 times. After that its shuddering and on 5-cilinders. It throws codes P1085, P1083, P0174 and 0171.
Also sometimes the car is giving a whistling noise, coming from behind, that differs on the revs.
After long thinking I will change my fuel pump and filter(regulator). I guess thats the only logically left thing, except of a closed/contaminated catalysator. What do you think?
Check out my common vacuum leaks video. 171/174 is almost always one of those.
The problem is solved! It was the fuel pump, it was failing. Not completely failing, but failing in capacity. More than half a year my car was running too lean due to this pump. In the first 5m i felt the difference. Feels like a diesel now, much more torque in the low RPM's. Still thanks for your answer.
also I hear the airport but it also sounds like someone's cutting grass haa. Thanks man. I just bought a 2000 328i also and love it so far,it has 150k and runs really good and the exterior is in excellent condition for a 15 year old car. I want to get it back to stock power at the LEAST.
+david Crawford So be aware that you have a different fuel system--a return style where the fuel pressure regulator is separate from the filter. I'll be doing a future video on this one because a friend of mine has one that needs replacing, but it's actually extremely simple. You'll see the pressure regulator (it's got a vacuum line going to it) and you'll see that there is a sort of metal retaining clip holding it in. You pull that out and then just pull the regulator out (if you determine you need to change it).
+50sKid so what engine do I have if not the m54. and how much different are the two engines?
You've got the M52 engine. It's basically the same thing only the M54 has an extra 0.2 liters of displacement (and a few more horsepower), the different fuel system as I mentioned, and instead of the solid aluminum skid plate underneath the car you have 3 tubular braces in a triangular shape. Also you've got the pre-body lift front end. No xenon cat's eye headlamps.
bad vacuum line to the fuel filter caused a 174 code on my 2004 bmw 325i. service engine light was on a year. drove me crazy. fuel pump went out and while replacing it and the fuel pump he found the bad vacuum line at the filter. code free no light now.
Nice
i have that code p0174 bank 2, thanks, im going to check mine from there
Awesome, I am getting a P0174 on my 2003 325iAT. I practively purchased solid silcone hose to run from the filter all the way up to the intake. Doing the filter today, hopefully this is the source of my vacuum leak
ok thanks a lot. I'm gonna go fuel pressure then check the fuel filter. the fuel pump is in the gas tank right?
+david Crawford Yep. Next week's video will be about replacing the fuel pump. ;-)
I was just gonna say lol Thanks man for the videos and the response.
hi 50's kid!
I love you video's and they have helped me a lot during my maintenance to my 320CI BMW 2003 anyhow i was wonder how many miles your car has done before you replaced the filter? i just did mine after 100.000 miles and i havent seen any of the black stuf coming out of my filter...
greetings from the Netherlands!
I think you have to replace filter every one or 2 years depending on your mileage that you do or every 70k miles
Thanks for this video! The F-connector is located in the air intake pipe, before the throttle butterfly, so there is no vacuum here. Where does the thin vacuum line get it's vacuum from, in order to operate the fuel pressure regulator?
Also, the larger diameter pipe of the F-connector goes to the sucking jet pump "branch" which DOES see manifold vacuum. This would effectively bypass the throttle butterfly?! What have i misunderstood here?
It's not a vacuum controlled fuel pressure regulator, it's fixed. That line is there just in case the diaphragm bursts--it routes the fumes into the intake.
Yeah I honestly have never given that sucking jet pump any real thought. I've read somewhere that it boosts the vacuum in the brake booster somehow.
what code did you have if any? or what were the symptoms of bad fuel filter, I have a p0174 on mine, 2001 bmw 325i
i just replaced mine while doing all the fluids and filters on a newly purchased e46. its easy enough to do and if you got the car up already might as well.
Thanks for Sharing.........Just FYI....When replacing hose clamps -fuel, vacuum, coolant etc. I try to use the "Pressed" OEM Style "Worm" Clamps such as Oetiker (OEM) or Norma/Gemi (They have pressed threads) The clamps that you installed have the "cut holes" for the threads. A BMW Mechanic explained that those type clamps(with the holes for threads) damage the hoses because they cut into the hose. As the hose ages it is more likely to fail sooner. I presume that is why BMW uses them. They can be found if you look for them. I know that AutohausAZ carries them.
Interesting, thanks!
May the Gods bless you with riches beyond your wonder. Thanks Brotha!
did you retest the fuel pressure ?
Yes, the normal fuel pressure for an M54 is 50psi.
and it no longer drooped pressure! thank you for the upload great videos
The line connected to the pressure regulator is not a vacuum line. It is attached to the F connector on the intake boot just after the MAF.
It basically just needs atmospheric pressure not vacuum.
Nice video keep up the good work I have question were you bay the parts thank you
Does the fuel filter comes with fuel regulator?
I changed the ccv kit on a 2005 bmw 325I. It developed a fuel leak where the fuel inlet hose connects to the fuel rail. It has a small crack. I know that area has a quick connect. Will it be the same on the other end?
Yes, same on the other end which you can get from below
Great video! I want to try this DIY on a 2004 330ci but had a bad experience in the past. I did the same procedure on a 04 325i and the car would not start after the fuel filter had been changed. I could not figure out what caused the issue so I put the old fuel filter back into the car and it turned on. My question is, could it have possibly been a defective new fuel filter? If so, then what's the part number for my vehicle? Thanks in advance.
+moraleseli1994 You need the same filter that you see in in the video--I actually mention the Keyser part number, which isn't the bmw part number, but look on eBay and you'll find it. Keyser is the OEM brand and you can find it for a better price on eBay. Can't say why the car didn't start in your situation, except that maybe you mixed up the inlet and return lines (at the back of the filter).
would a fuel filter cause my car not to start?
if it was seriously clogged, yes
Which side of the car was that panel covering for the fuel pressure on passenger or driver ?
hello sir, I appreciate the videos. i was wondering have you ever had a p1250 code? I read it can be due to not enough fuel pressure, what do you think? thanks.
On what make and model of car exactly?
50sKid 2000 bmw 323ci e46
Are you sure it's P1250 code? That does not seem to be a code that happens on BMWs.
Got a question for ya. I just replaced my fuel filter in my e46 today, well going off your video the two lines on the back of your fuel filter are/were reversed on mine because I just put them where they were before on the old fuel filter. Would the car still run with them reversed to know for sure if they were in the wrong placement all along and now even? Damn, I really didn’t feel like getting gas all over again even with pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting it run before replacing.
thats a pump and return line from the pressure regulator built into the filter, i dont believe it will run reversed, as the pump feed will be going into the outlet of the regulator... then again, who knows. lol
Hello, I've watched your video many times, and it has helped me so much. Thank you for that! However, for the past year, I've been struggling with a specific issue on my BMW E46 SULEV M56 engine (325i).
The car works fine in the summer or when it's warm outside, but once the temperature drops to around 34°F, it won't start. After trying 20-30 times, it eventually starts, but all the gauges light up. Once it’s working up, everything works as if nothing happened.
I suspect it might be related to the fuel line, but I'm not sure where to look. I've tried everything, and no mechanic has been able to identify the problem. If you have any advice or ideas, I’d greatly appreciate it-I'm desperate at this point.Thank you
Nice one, as always. Is it advisable to remove the fuel pump fuse and let the engine drain the fuel lines, to have a less messy procedure? Cheers.
+Gehmirnicht Aufdienuesse I did that in my video--it doesn't help. Be prepared to catch the fuel in a container.
If the fuel filter or regulator fail can this cause lean fuel leak?
I wonder did you ever do anything about the sound of the engine on this one. I have something similar which I believe is the injectors.
Hi, great info as always. Was curious to know how often the filter needs changing? I've heard opinions ranging from 10k to 50k, but is it something that should be done annually? Thanks😊
Hi. What would happen if one would mixed up the fuel lines and hook up the new filter with the return line on the inside? Would the car still start? I think I may just done it that way?
hey man I have a question. I have a idle fluctuation only on cold start,not cold weather, and the car seems to fix itself or go away when I start driving. it stays at around 800 rpm then will drop about every 8 seconds to like 4-500 rpm then go right back up. I was told it could be a vanos? any help would be awesome. keep the videos coming.
+david Crawford I don't think it's the VANOS. My guess--and I'm completely guessing here--is that there may be an intermittent fuel delivery problem--possibly with your fuel pump. I would check fuel pressure, first thing.
Dude I've had the same problem before. Ended up being a split vacuum hose.
Do you remember or know which one or were it's located.
+david Crawford hi dude I don't know what hose had a split. The splits can be tiny and very hard to find
old question but still - if some of you have idle problems with cold starts with cold weather (below 13°C) and then when the car gets to temperature the idle is normal (and also when the problem goes away with cold start when the air temperature is warmer than 14°C) - THEN you have a problem with vanos on your M52TUB engine. The ar has special mode when the outside temperature is low, that it opens the vanos on neutral to build heat in as quickly as possible - that is why it is mysteriously occuring only when cold starting on cold day. On M54 this probably wont happen as it should have an electronic fix for that mapped in ECU. I am just writing it anywhere I can because it took me a lot of time to find the problem on miine, so you can sort out yours if it does the same :)
What kind of power tool is that what brand?
That is an older Makita 1/4 impact driver however, I would recommend you go for the Milwaukee 2754-22 3/8 cordless impact wrench (200 ft lbs!).
Nice video keep up the good work man I have a 330i 2001 and this will help me out alot God bless.
hi! @50sKid Do you happen to know whether the FPR integrated in the filter is the same size as the M52TUs that have it on the injector rail (Euro setup)? For some reason, it seems that my type of FPR is not being made anymore, except for some Ridex junk I would not trust.
i was going to this today on my 330ci and the hoses that go on the filter are rotten af so i need to replace them, anyone knows what size it is and also i want to change the clamps as well, i can't seem to find any info on sizes
just eyeball the clamps--they're likely the small ones you'll be able to find. The hose is 3.5mm ID. amzn.to/2I5ZECf
Hi, lots of great info on your videos. I measured 50psi fuel pressure on my E46 and it doesn't fluctuate with acceleration. It drops if I manually apply a vacuum to the small hose that connects to the F tube. I don't feel any vacuum coming from the f connector. Do you know what the vacuum measurement should be? Is the vacuum source supposed to come from the bigger jet pump hose? If so, what reading should I expect at the larger hose in case it is semi/clogged?
Is it difficult to replace the return hose?
Hey, i replaced my fuel filter and went for a test drive, ive been driving with the temp on display on the dash because of some overheating issues i had a couple months back, which i fixed by replacing the thermostat and water pump, but now when im idling for a couple minutes the car starts overheating and goes back to normal temp once i start driving again, please help me!!!
Those two things are unrelated. Either your thermostat is sticking closed or your temp sensor is acting up
Turns out my fuel pressure regulator is not on the fuel filter, but at the front of the fuel rail. I say this because I've been getting a strong fuel smell under the bonnet since winter of 2021. I thought it was the injectors and replaced them all at a hundred bucks a pop summer 2022. fuel smell reduced somewhat but was still there after shut down. the stealer told me it was my purge valve, so I replaced it in march, a few months ago. mechanic who did my waterpump and thermostat last week, told me that the fuel smell is coming from the fuel pressure regulator and or the vacuum-like hose attached to it. the hose is really cracked. I'm getting the feeling that that hose carries fuel vapors from the fpr after shutdown? is that fpr difficult to replace? do i have to remove the fuel rail? don't particularly want to do that again.
hey, do i need to change the fuel regulator too when i replace the filter? thanks in advance
If you have the old system where the two are separate, no you don't need to change the regulator. If you have the newer system where they're both integrated, well, you have no choice lol
many thanks. hopefully its the former. i guess the only way to find out is to get under there? or can the stealer tell by the VIN?
blackpassenger nah you can tell by your vin too. Go to realoem.com and put in the last 7 of your vin and then find the part no for the filter
oh excellent. good lookin' out.
oh man, excellent. i never ever ever have to go to the dealer here in japan again. whenever i go to the dealer here for a part number, theyre always trying to get me to order the part from them. And yo, the prices here? anywhere from 2 - 7x more expensive. for example: spark plugs here are 22 bucks each and four rotors with all the pads are 600 bucks.
If I accidentally hope the feed lines into the wrong spot meaning fuel into pressure regulator and pressure regulator into fuel the feed would it cause a problem with the regulator
Did you experience any codes due to dirty fuel filter if so what were they?
dirty fuel filter restricts fuel flow and that causes lean fuel trims under load (that affect the performance of your car). The codes it can trigger are P0171 and P0174 (related to lean running conditions)
@@FStan-co8vv ok yeah that’s what I got a p0174 code but I replaced fuel filter and still have that code
@@chrispirrone7798 Lean codes can also be caused by vacuum leaks. With the engine warmed to optimal temperature, check fuel trim data - first at idle, then under load (even better if you can check them while driving). If you got really high fuel trims at idle, and they go lower when you raise the revs to 2-3k, you likely have a vacuum leak. If you got low fuel trims at idle, and high under load... Then you might have a fuel delivery issue, or a MAF which reports bad information
@@FStan-co8vv ok thanks but within the last year replaced maf 02 sensors fuel injectors plugs coil packs cats fuel filter purge valve DMTL pump vacuum canister vacuum control valve and 3.5 mm vac lines the only thing I haven’t done is remove intake oh yeah and CCV system
@@chrispirrone7798 check the fuel trims first to get an idea whether the problem is vacuum leak, fuel delivery or something else
Would the vacuum hose coming off the fuel filter cause loping idle & stalling? I just changed mine but its winter here & a parking lot full of ice. Thanks for any idea's.
I have a 1998 BMW 540i. Going to replace fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. E39 540i 3/2-way valve and fuel hoses(my diagram). How to I release fuel pressure before removing. Do I remove fuel pump fuses in glove box and or in the trunk? Both? After I remove fuse, start car and wait for it to die? Thanks for any information. Greatly appreciated.
Could a faulty regulator cause over-fuelling? I've got negative trim on both banks and the car reeks of fuel after a journey, but there are never puddles underneath.
Hello, I have the same problem on my S54. Beast of an engine. BMW mechanics can’t find a leak and thought maybe carbon canister or I over filled the tank. Head me h even took it home as a road test. They looked at me like I was imagining things. It spewed gas on my driveway and road first time like a leaking line. Still stinks inside after running a while and can smell gas from the engine bay top left area in front of the driver but can’t see drips. Okay So I’m thinking the fuel pressure regulator may be faulty but maybe partly plugged the leak. Worried she may blow up one day as the engine runs hot. Getting it looked at tomorrow. Please let me know if you sorted out the problem, thanks and good luck.
@@osoyoosforever9643 I fixed my problem - the vacuum line to the fuel pump pressure regulator had detached. This caused both fuel to leak out of it AND the pump to run over the rated pressure (hence the negative trim - the computer was "backing off" the fuel delivery because of the extra pressure).
I'm not sure if the S54 uses vacuum to regulate the fuel pump, but check your filter!
Failing this, it will be a leaking injector seal or injector body, or a high-pressure fuel line into the injector rail - all serviceable parts.
I need to replace vacuum hose from F point to filter smaller one on bottom. What size of hose is that and what length I need to go all the way to fuel filter ?
To clarify I need replace vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator, and it’s that a difficult job ?
And do I need replace all line or just rubber ends ?
just the rubber ends. You need 3.5mm ID vacuum hose. You can find good quality silicone ones on amazon.
Thanks 50skid
I have an 03 325xi is it the same process to change the fuel filter? and do I need to buy the regular fuel filter or the filter with the pressure regulator?
+adam c yes and you need the combined filter and regulator
hey question changed my fuel pump and fuel filter front two o2 sensors on my 2002 325i still getting a po152 po174 p1085 ive done the checks for vacuum leaks changed boots f connector and all lines i can see not sure what else it could be any help would be greatly appreciated still getting misfires 5/6 cant get it to pass inspection car is starting to be a pain i have the rear o2 sensor to put in next car is running at 27%stft on bank two only would the rear o2 sensor cause it to lean out
Did you figured it out ?
Cleaning your Maf will also help.
Hi....I just got my E46 about 2 weeks ago and I love it...it's a 325xi. 2005.....well I got 3 pending codes p0172,p0175 and a p1448...any advice on that?...fuel pump and filter replaced...new MAF ,plugs but not sure about o2 sensors....or ecm....any advice will be greatly appreciated....keep up with the videos they're great
Anyone knows the sizes of those hoses ? Or part number?
Da Maestro buy the filter and take it to any car shop get them to fit the hose's on you will need a silicone hose for the pressure wich is the smallest and fuel hose for the rest you will also need 6 clamps that can fit the 3 fuel hose's try get them in stainless steel so they dont rust
Love your videos! This morning my 2005 325xi was running in the driveway and then it quit. Never happened before. Now it won't start. Motor turns over but doesn't start. Any suggestions?
Paul Gunn dead fuel pump maybe. Try pressing the schrader valve in on the fuel rail with a screwdriver and seeing if there is pressure. If not, it’s dead
Hi, when I pressed the valve gas spewed out. I replaced the relay and the fuse is good. Any ideas on why it turns over but won't start?
Schrader valve OK, replaced relay, fuse ok. Still turns over but won't start? Any thoughts before I have it towed away for yet another expensive shop bill? Thanks!
If was a dead fuel pump. Thanks.
can this cause misfires?
E46 320D 110kw also has something like this?
Thanks 50kids for your another great vedio, I am a big fan of you and your diy vedios now.
My problem is exactly same as david Crawford . My car is E60 525i 2004with enginge M54
i replaced fuel filter which was horribly dirty , replaced also feul pump but the problem still exists.
They told me to clean injectors because old feul filter was very dirty. Do you recommend me cleaning them to solve this problem and what is the correct way to clean them.
+Yazan Alaya What are the fuel trims telling you? If you don't have high fuel trims (indicating that your car is under-delivering fuel), then paying for a fuel injector cleaning may be a waste of money.
I haven't done feul trim yet. I will install the software and check..Thanks for the advice
This video is 2 years old but just in case the viewers want to know I believe those clamps are removed with a 1/4 socket. Not a 1/4 ratchet, but a 1/4 socket. :)
Hi, my 330ci has some sort of internal leak in the fuel system that causes fuel pressure to drop over time. I'm not exactly sure what is causing this but it seems to hold pressure for longer when the car has run for quite a while vs she drops fuel pressure quicker when she has only run a few miles (under the same ECT temp). Could it be a faulty pressure regulator that holds pressure for longer when it gets heated up from the heat of the exhaust ?
+frank j it's the check valve inside of the fuel pump. It goes bad over time. You can install an aftermarket inline check valve immediately after the pump for about $7 that will solve the problem. Search for fuel check valve on Amazon and buy a 10mm one.
Will try that. Thank you
hey 50s kid! whats the hose clamp size. Im doing mine this upcoming week
Hey I wanted to know where that hard black like coming off the fpr goes to, can’t seem to find anywhere it plugs up onto, please if u kno lmk
i have a rough idle on my m54 b30 and i don’t have any vacuum leaks, re did the vanos, re did the ccv
new spark plugs and coils
i have no codes either
the fuel filter hasn’t been changed, do you think this is my issue?
cleaned the MAS sensor ?
clean the trottle body ?
Changed fuel injectors ?
Change the fuel filter ?
Check the rear of engine near firewall for 2 vacuum hoses that are always going bad.
Lucas injector cleaner in gas tank ?
My vacuum line on my fuel filter is broken is that why my car have a cylinder misfire code ?
Unlikely that it's the culprit for your misfire but still it's a bad thing because it causes a vacuum leak. So replace the vacuum line (preferably all vacuum lines, those cars are old and that rubber is crumbling 100%). If you got a single cylinder misfire it's more likely you have a problem with the ignition coil or spark plug of that cylinder (rarely injector failure). To test the coils, take a coil from a good cylinder and swap it with the cylinder that has the misfire. If the misfire moves to the other cylinder, you know you got a bad coil
another great vidI see you have worked on M52tu...can you please tell me where on the vacuum fuel regulator on top of motor ...the tube has no vacuum so am thinking it is split somewhere the Bentley tells nothing where it goes ....and absolute waste of money except for the codes and electrical diagrams but lacks what value components are when I last emailed you about the replacement of Disa diaphragm you should do a vid on this because it does gets trickyI just replaced my vacuum diaphragm on the DISA ...not hard but just have to apply lots of leverage with a long thin screwdriver and then getting it back together is not too bad...just have to line all the parts up ....my diaphragm was split right where it comes in contact with the edge of the top cap...can see this being a problem cause contact on the diaphragm should have been either flat or rounded but this is thin walled and can cut the diaphragm over time
The line on the top of the fuel rail runs from the fuel pressure regulator down under the body (approximately underneath the feet of the driver -- left hand drive cars), up along the side of the fuel rail and down to the CCV oil separator, which only has a little tiny tiny bit of vacuum. It's only purpose is in case the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm bursts, the gasoline vapors will be sucked into the CCV system and then into the intake manifold to be recycled.
hmmm sometimes when I stop I can smell fuel vapour,so maybe it could be the regulator leaking, but at idle there seems no vacuum at regulator A fuel pressure gauge should tell if there is a problem with regulator?.LTFT still show 11.7+ on both banks so there seems to still be another vacuum leak
It's a possibility. If your fuel pressure regulator diaphragm were torn, your fuel pressure would be low which could cause a lean condition but then again fuel would be leaking into that vacuum hose and getting sucked into the intake manifold which could cause a rich condition. So it's kind of tricky. Yes, a fuel pressure gauge would be the way to confirm that. What are your total fuel trims at 2500 rpm?
will check stft and ltft when Wifie brings back the car ..so far have found vacuum leaks in top T/C gasket, oil filter body,Disa o'ring and diaphragm. plugged up exhaust flap,have to make a smoke machine if I can find a metal paint tin ,all plastic here
Will this cause a no start issue my car cranks but doesn’t start like no gas ?? 2004 bmw 325 I I can’t hear the pump I have a Sulev gas tank ???
+50sKid Great videos,I have a ? My car lost power 3 times in one day.I have lean codes p0174p0171 and now my car want start and if it does which is rare it stalls immediatelyIt throw codes at 69mphNo pressure at the fuel valve.im getting ready to install a fuel pump.But before I do could it be the fuel filter/regulater.I hear the pump prime when I turn the key
It certainly could be the fuel filter--I would replace that first.
Hi I have a question, I have a 2010 328i xdrive sulev and I was told that the Fuel Pressure Regulator is faulty, they already replaced the Fuel Pump, now they want to charge me 3k to change the Fuel Pump Assembly which includes Fuel Tank and kits, should I go to a Independent mechanic and change only the Fuel Pressure regulator? Thanks
What are the last 7 digits of your VIN number so I can look up diagrams?
A648645 Thanks
Would this be the same prcocedure for the 2003 X5. It has the M54 3.0 engine. Thanks for doing these vides. They are very helpful!!
Yes it's very very similar. You'll see a slightly different configuration of things where the fuel filter is. I believe the charcoal canister is next to it. But the fuel filter looks the same.
Hey 50s kid, I love your videos man keep at it! I do have a ? for you, I have been working on my 2000 323i BMW e46 wagon with the bleed down fuel pressure long cranking issues. Ive replaced fuel pump twice, fuel pressure regulator with valve and replaced all injectors and when I turn key on fuel pressure goes to 50 and it leaks down to zero in a matter of seconds. Car running good tho. Any ideas? Suggestions? I am going crazy trying to figure it out. Thanks in advance man. Hope you can respond.
Did you ever figure this out?
I have a 325xi and for some reason SOMETIMES it sounds like a 4x4 like you can really hear the fan spin when I hit the throttle. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. And the other thing my fuel trims are around 10 to 14 positive and when I hit the gas it stays about the same. The long term is like -4. Do you have any ideas
That is quite strange. Fuel trims usually don't stay the same at 3000 rpm as they are at idle.
50sKid today at cold start the fuel trims were at -4 then at warm up it was at +14 then after maybe 20min it goes down to +3to+4 but still gets the p0171 and p0174 codes
What airport?
HELP?? Still have code P0193 on my BMW e46 after replacing with a brand new OEM fuel filter w regulator built in? Any ideas?
Put a fuel gauge on the schrader valve that's on the fuel rail and see if you have fuel pressure there.
@@bigidol9789 sold it for big profit only paid 300$ for it put 1000$ into it sold for 3500. took some time after i cleared the code but the fuel filter worked fine
Hi 50s kid, I believe you responded to my questions regarding fuel regulator but when I went to read it I received a message saying "message reported" and I don't see your reply anymore. i apologize for the error and was wondering if you can repost? Also want to clarify that my concern is that if no vacuum is present at the small F tube fitting, especially during idle, that defeats the purpose of the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm... Any help is appreciated since I suspect there should be a vacuum during idle
+George Santana I think I've responded like 3 times already. The fuel pressure regulator on the M54 is regulated to the atmospheric vacuum coming from in front of the throttle plate, which is very small compared to the manifold vacuum coming from behind the throttle plate. You're not going to see any vacuum at that F connector when at idle, because that vacuum is created by air rushing past that opening when it's going through the intake boot and into the engine. At idle, the throttle plate is closed, and there is only a tiny amount of air going through (into the idle air control valve). In other words, you can ignore it. If you have 50psi in your fuel system while running, then that is normal. The sucking jet pump increases manifold vacuum for the brake booster by acting as a one way valve.
My car is E46 m54 3.25i. What is the part number of the fuel filter?
Wat was you symptoms that gave you this see i keep getting random misfire in 1st cylinder code with cut off fuel i change o2 all 4 i change fan clutch i change fuel injector i change transs and oil. I change allot im thinking its my fuel filter wen i press down on gas. Hesitations. Mis fire starvation. All that. Idk lmk
Hi,need some help here!
my wagon goes out of fuel at 1/4 tank,when i checked the obc cluster menu in test 6 it shows for example 10 liters in the left side and 6 in the right side, i know this is wrong because is supposed to transfer the fuel from left to right side and when less of half a tank the left side should be empty or nearly empty.
new vdo fuel pump,new kayser filter,replaced the siphone pump,new fpr vac lines,new oem fuel tank cap and still having the same issue at 1/4 tank most of the fuel is on the left side.
no codes no problems just that issue at 1/4 tank.
any help?
John Gonzalez , I have the same problem but I haven’t replaced any parts yet . When my tank gets to 1/4 with say 60 miles left if goes to die out and has no power
@@SuperBolt666 problem solved,for some reason the vdo pump wasn't strong enough to produce the right pressure,did a test with an old aftermarket pump and in 5 seconds the left side went to zero confirming the pump was weak. Ended replacing the pump.
I noticed the pump weakness when I pulled out the fuel pump connector the engine died immediately,its supposed to run for a few seconds and then die.
The jet pump inside the tank needs the return line pressure to work if the return line is weak the suction jet pump wont work.
Do the test I did,I know filters can get clogged but if the engine is running great with 1/4 or more gas tank the filter is ok.
John Gonzalez thanks for the reply, I will try this 👍
Love your videos!!
I've been getting a few codes on my 2000 Bmw 323i wagon.. P1188 fuel control bank 1 sensor 1, P1189 fuel control bank 2 sensor 1, P0170 fuel trim bank 1 and P0173 fuel trim bank 2. Could the fuel filter be the problem? If it was your car, what would you fix first? Then next..
Thanks for any help you can give me.
+dianna romero Take a look at my fuel trims video for further help on this. Thanks for watching
Hi I have a Bmw 325xi 2003, I just replace all fuel injectors and spark plugs, keep giving to me a miss fire code on 6 and 4, turn on fine and when I try to drive just engine shut down.. please help me..
What size is that vacuum line and how long would I need?
1/8" and less than a foot
+50sKid thank you for replying and making these videos and sharing your experise!! Really appreciate it!!
What size is that in mm and do I just need normal vacuum hose ?
Looks like two sizes of vacuum hose, what are inner/outer specs needed? Want to change the whole ling back to the F connector, seems like it'd be way more than a foot?
hey , im a fan of your work. i had a problem with my bmw 320ci 2005 in bank1 and bank 2, i changed all lean codes. so , do i need to change my fuel pump to , cuz it feels like my car lose it power .. she goes slower up to 100km/h . and why do we need to change the fuel pump what does it do? help me out i need this. EU miles 15000 .
What codes do you have exactly? Did you erase them and did they come back again?
i had code p0171 p0174, and after some changing one of them is gone but i still had a bank2 code left in my scan. so i guess its cilender 4-5-6 `? what can it be ?
i had code p0171 p0174, and after some changing one of them is gone but i
still had a bank2 code left in my scan. so i guess its cilender 4-5-6
`? what can it be ?
Watch my fuel trims video.
I have p1353 n p0313 codes. Hoping bad filter, replce , run chevron 4 a tank. Hope this helps. If not maybe fuel pump???
Does anyone know the vacuum hose size/specs he mentions you should change out at the beginning? Looks like an end cap piece and the main vacuum hose. Inner outer Diameter of each??? Thanks!
Hi @50skid. Thanks for your great vids! Say, Could I buy a Kayser fuel filter without pressure regulator and reuse the regulator from my old filter (put it on the new filter when replacing?)? Found the naked Kayser fuel filter for 16 $ @ OEMbimmer. My ride is a 2001 300xi. Cheers
If you have an M52TU engine you are supposed to have the bare fuel filter like that. The pressure regulator is separate. Watch this video on a car that has this type of system and you will see what it looks like: th-cam.com/video/jqef_Xpz7Og-/w-d-xo.html- Consult realoem.com and enter in the last 7 digits of your VIN number to find the exact part number for your car and then type that part number into google or ebay and you will see what the part looks like and then you'll know what system you have.
Thanks man. RealOEM tells me I have the normal M54 engine. Cheers
And that's the part: 01 Fuel filter with pressure regulator D=55MM/L=315MM 1 13327512019 $96.84 .....//// Means I need to buy the one with pressure regulator on it, right? Cheers!
Yep that's what it says there.
Great video, learning a lot from you about maintenance on my new e46. Do you know what size hoses are used in the fittings and the pressure regulator (I have a feeling I will need to update those too when I change the filter...)
Cheers
a video on automatic transmission service
shot, coming soon.
can someone please answer my question. can a dirty fuel filter cause erratic RPM on cold start which disappears when the engine runs for a few minutes?
Ben Horsley it jumps up and down between 800 and 900 rpm and you feel the car shaking. It settles after the engine warms up. And it smokes (white/blue) while it jumps up and down
Ben Horsley I have BMW N47 engine which the CCV is part of the rocker cover and I recntly (about a year ago) changed it
Anyhow how can I diagnose it?
Bonjour moi jai un problem sur 325xi e46. Jai pas de vide sur la petite durite qui ce branche sur le regulateur De pression.... ?? MERCI
what are the clamp size that i should get for the ones i need to replace ??
Hello. I have 2001 bmw. 325 I. I like to. Know. What. Program. You. Use. In your. Computer. Thank
He. uses. Scanmaster. ELM. i. think.
I have the xenon but no angel eyes if that's the same as angel eyes or whatever there called...
I don't know if anyone is still checking messages here. I have a crank/no start with P0171 and P0174 lean codes. I will be changing fuel filter and fuel pump tomorrow as I put in a fuel pump from a pick n pull and feels like same issue. Also SES light is on. Any other suggestions?
La petite durite qui ce branche sur le filtres a carvurant dpis normalement aspire le doigt et moi il y a aucune aspirations dou peux venir le soucis merci merci ????