I was able to change the cv axle on my 05 Dakota by disconnecting the upper and front ball joints (and brake calipers obviously). It wasn’t easy, but it was easier than this method. Wasn’t necessary to remove the lower ball joint so no broken cotter pin or replacing the castle nut.
First, I really appreciate the vids. They have been a great help to me. But I would like to add that for safety reasons that you should never work on your truck (or car) use the jack to hold it up. Always put your vehicle on jack stands because jacks can fail and they are not as stable as jacks. I still leave my jack in place as well in case I need it, but I always put a jack stand in place, put on the emergency brake and chalk the wheels. Once again, thanks for the vids. They are great!!!
@GittarHedd give the knuckle a few hits with a hammer at the top where the ball joint goes through. it should break free that way instead of using a pickle fork. i never use pickle forks for that reason unless i don't care about the boot. also you don't have to remove the hub if you just remove the knuckle and hub as an assembly. cheers.
That’s a “sometimes you’re lucky” thing. I can confirm it’s possible but sometimes the collar has to be cut away with an angle grinder. Also, there are 2-3 models of replacement cv axles-some with c rings, some without. It can be a very frustrating repair.
thanks so much for the videos... i just bought a beater '96 dodge dakota with 200,000mi... needless to say, that it needs some work and it wouldn't be worth it to pay to have someone else do it......thanks!!!
I have a '99 Dakota, recently had all 4 shocks and the rack/pinion replaced... Mechanic didn't mention any serious problems with anything under there, though mine is only 2wd. This one looks like a 4wd. The truck's lasted me pretty good, it's had very few problems in the time I've had it (got it used in 2000 only 1 previous owner). Main complaint I've heard about this generation (concerning suspension) is that the front balljoints tended to go out way too soon. Mine did too.
sop i had my cvs changed in my 08 ram. and the stub shaft on the passenger sized was seized/stuck to the cv axle. we got them seperated should be safe to use again?
Would a impact chisel get it lose im not strong enough to use a big hammer and I do most of my on repair! I hit a huge pot hole and cracked my rack and pinion I'm losing a lot of power steering fluid in my 1998 Durango! thank you!!
well the pickle fork might have been the actual reason you decided to replace the lower balljoint ya ripped the boot im sure. the chisel on the hu. yeah air chisel less arm work. taking all that time to remove the pin with plyers yeah first timer. oh and nice job with breaker bar and your foot on knuckle lucky you dont need a new set of balls.
i hate car mechanics, they beat the shit out of everything, then bill you for there "bull in a china shop" ways, replace one thing and pay for our destruction.
Anyone know the name of the part on 3:50?
You mean the wheel hub?
I was able to change the cv axle on my 05 Dakota by disconnecting the upper and front ball joints (and brake calipers obviously). It wasn’t easy, but it was easier than this method. Wasn’t necessary to remove the lower ball joint so no broken cotter pin or replacing the castle nut.
First, I really appreciate the vids. They have been a great help to me. But I would like to add that for safety reasons that you should never work on your truck (or car) use the jack to hold it up. Always put your vehicle on jack stands because jacks can fail and they are not as stable as jacks. I still leave my jack in place as well in case I need it, but I always put a jack stand in place, put on the emergency brake and chalk the wheels. Once again, thanks for the vids. They are great!!!
@GittarHedd give the knuckle a few hits with a hammer at the top where the ball joint goes through. it should break free that way instead of using a pickle fork. i never use pickle forks for that reason unless i don't care about the boot. also you don't have to remove the hub if you just remove the knuckle and hub as an assembly. cheers.
But thanks for the video as I find it hard to believe that the inner part of the axle will just slid out. No C clip anything else?
That’s a “sometimes you’re lucky” thing. I can confirm it’s possible but sometimes the collar has to be cut away with an angle grinder. Also, there are 2-3 models of replacement cv axles-some with c rings, some without. It can be a very frustrating repair.
How do you get the axle out of the diff .? Pull the diff cover or slide hammer it out....??
Hey how many u joints are on my 2001 Dodge Dakota,and is it true if my ball joints were replaced during that recall,they can be replaced for free???
thanks so much for the videos... i just bought a beater '96 dodge dakota with 200,000mi... needless to say, that it needs some work and it wouldn't be worth it to pay to have someone else do it......thanks!!!
I have a '99 Dakota, recently had all 4 shocks and the rack/pinion replaced... Mechanic didn't mention any serious problems with anything under there, though mine is only 2wd. This one looks like a 4wd.
The truck's lasted me pretty good, it's had very few problems in the time I've had it (got it used in 2000 only 1 previous owner). Main complaint I've heard about this generation (concerning suspension) is that the front balljoints tended to go out way too soon. Mine did too.
sop i had my cvs changed in my 08 ram. and the stub shaft on the passenger sized was seized/stuck to the cv axle. we got them seperated should be safe to use again?
Would a impact chisel get it lose im not strong enough to use a big hammer and I do most of my on repair! I hit a huge pot hole and cracked my rack and pinion I'm losing a lot of power steering fluid in my 1998 Durango! thank you!!
mechanic tried to order new output shaft/bearing part but there on backorder so were going to see if old part will hold up with new cvs in there.
(cont). Also, this generation has everything riveted instead of bolted, so that makes the balljoints even more difficult to replace.
remove the upper ball joint from control arm jeezz!!
i was able to jack up the lower control arm and pull my shaft out at a downward angle
Bob just pull it out its only held in place by the hub and knuckle
umm this is definaly the hard way
well the pickle fork might have been the actual reason you decided to replace the lower balljoint ya ripped the boot im sure. the chisel on the hu. yeah air chisel less arm work. taking all that time to remove the pin with plyers yeah first timer. oh and nice job with breaker bar and your foot on knuckle lucky you dont need a new set of balls.
i like to lay under my truck with a scissor jack supporting it on the rotor
i hate car mechanics, they beat the shit out of everything, then bill you for there "bull in a china shop" ways, replace one thing and pay for our destruction.
Tdogg75ca i hope you're not serious. most parts any used vehicle requires some coaxing to get parts of and out of the way. Especially in suspension
love the zeppelin in the backround!!!!!
Thaaar she blows! ahahaha XD